RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Does it require more effort to prime the engine with the Cline regulator? I read somewhere that it took 5 to 6 seconds with an electric starter on someone's setup. It seems to me that 5 to 6 seconds with no fuel-oil mixture will cause some premature wear. Cline suggests to choke the carb, but new Saitos have no choke. My cowl will make it difficult to choke the carb with a finger or thumb. I'm assuming the check-valve is going to perform the same as plugging the muffler tap to increase tank pressure and force fuel towards the carb, but I don't know how this will work with the regulator in the mix. I just did a search, and found that the issue is that the tank has to build pressure first to force the fuel to move. Apparently, if you fill the tank, then plug the overflow and give it a little more fuel, that this will pre pressurize the tank. Oh, and I humbly request membership to Club Saito (and I pronounced it correctly).
Posted on: 5/10/2008 2:34 AM by Author "clutchbob" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7478039

RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
[quote]I noticed when I installed the velocity stack on my 72 along with the Dubro filter that the engine mount was a good bit in the way. I was able to push the filter aside to install the engine on the mount. Everyone have that problem? [/quote] I will have to do the same or grind away some of the motor mount, but grinding is probably not a good idea. The filter will still function pushed aside, I might secure it with a tie wrap. [quote]If you experience problems, use a bit more tubing for the feed line and let it loop below the tank and back up to the fuel nipple. It might be possible reversing this would help. [/quote] Thanks, Stallwart. Great Idea.
Posted on: 4/30/2008 9:01 PM by Author "clutchbob" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7441498

RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
My new Saito 72 is running great on my break- in stand, however, I'm a little anxious about mounting it to my airframe. I'm mounting it inverted to an ARF and have only one heigth to mount the fuel tank, the spray bar will be an inch below the tank centerline. I'm hoping this won't be problematic. I've been reading through this exhausting but informative thread and haven't seen this issue come up. I would love to mount the tank more ideally, but I don't see a way, yet. These ARFs shouldn't be so ARFing ARFy. [sm=angry.gif]
Posted on: 4/28/2008 11:13 PM by Author "clutchbob" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7433324

RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
[quote]Yeah anytime you up the voltage you cut the amps. This is why your 1500watt heater at the house only draws around 12-13 amps. Try that with 12v .Would be around 125 amps. [/quote] Sorry, you are wrong. Your 1500 watt heater puts out 1500 watts of power because you have 110 - 120 volts applied across it. Power (watts) equals the voltage times the current (amps). 120V X 12A = 1440 Watts. If the heater is drawing 12 Amps, it's resistance must be 10 Ohms. Since voltage equals resistance times current, 12 Volts across a 10 Ohm load would draw only [i]1.2 Amps[/i]. This is called Ohm's law, basic electronics.
Posted on: 4/28/2008 5:55 PM by Author "clutchbob" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7431762

RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
[quote]thanks for the info. i do have a hi-torque starter but it is OLD. so i have no idea what it's rated at. but i won't spin the 1.50 over very easily and does what w8 said... bouncing but not turning it over. [/quote] Try a battery that can supply more instantaneous current like a car battery.
Posted on: 4/28/2008 1:40 PM by Author "clutchbob" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7430616

RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
[quote]Just remember a DC motor draws more amps on 12v then on 24v 2X so if it draws 10 on 12v it draws 5 on 24v. [/quote] Are you sure about this? The motor windings present themselves as a resistance (load), this doesnt change when applied voltages are changed. If the voltage is doubled across the same load, current is going to double as well. Voltage = Current (in amps) X Resistance (in ohms).
Posted on: 4/28/2008 1:31 PM by Author "clutchbob" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7430585

RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
I have just recently aquired my first 4 stroke - a Saito 72. I'm very pleased with this engine. It idles very slowly and transitions to WOT without a hiccup, and it's just barely broken in. [quote]I keep having problems with the muffler coming loose [/quote] Have you tried tightening while the engine is hot?
Posted on: 4/27/2008 11:02 PM by Author "clutchbob" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7428548

RE: Wire cutting/clean-up?
I just fold the excess back and forth till it looks like ribbon candy and tie wrap it to the frame. Doesn't look bad and you might want the extra length later for another bird.
Posted on: 11/13/2007 8:25 PM by Author "clutchbob" in the forum "T-Rex heli"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6621527

RE: sim or heli
Get the sim and use the heli orientation trainer. I learned to fly in all upright orientations in a little over two weeks with it. Had fun with a Falcon 3D for a while, then sold it and now fly a T-rex. The cold won't stop me, just gota keep the batteries warm. The snow won't stop me, don't need a landing strip.
Posted on: 11/6/2007 9:16 PM by Author "clutchbob" in the forum "Electric RC Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6590579

RE: converting a 450xl to a 450se
I have read where keeping the old plastic bearing blocks keeps the noise down.
Posted on: 11/6/2007 8:58 PM by Author "clutchbob" in the forum "T-Rex heli"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6590495

RE: Trex 450 building too difficult!!!!
There is a video of Finless [b]specifically[/b] setting up a V2 with a Futaba radio. From what I read of your post you've seen a general video or something. I say, start building and things may become more clear as you progress. I found it wasn't too daunting, once I saw the Finless video and started the build. I started by taking the upper frame apart and installing the servos on the inside of the frame (allows for a more perpendicular alignment of the control links). With the motor disconnected, in [b]idle up[/b] (or aerobatic/3D mode), move the throttle stick to the mid point. The throttle is programmed in the radio to actually provide full power or sometimes close to full power (with a little less than full near the center stick position) through the entire stick movement. This is the throttle curve. The left stick also controls the pitch of the main rotor blades from negative pitch (in order to fly upside down) at the bottom of the stick position (which would also be full throttle), through zero pitch in the middle, to positive pitch at the top of the stick (also full throttle). This is the pitch curve. In [b]idle up[/b] mode [b]At center stick [/b](zero pitch)[b]:[/b] The servo arms should be perfectly lined up at right angles to the links that connect to the swash plate, if this can't be done mechanically, adjust with the subtrims in the radio. The swash plate must be level with the frame (or perpendicular to the main shaft all the way around) and centered in it's up and down travel. Typically, all horizontal parts of the mechanism should be level this way with center stick in idle up mode. Start from the servo arms and work your way up ending with the blade pitch (zero pitch). Be aware that some radios require you to set up zero pitch as "50" with full negative pitch being "0" and full positive being "100" In [b]normal mode[/b] (hover mode), the throttle is more or less set up with a linear throttle curve from off (low stick) to full power (stick up). the pitch curve is set up with zero pitch (or a little negative) at full down to positive pitch at full up. A ccpm setup requires that three servos work together to provide pitch changes and to also cause changes in the cyclic (right stick) movement. This is accomplished in the radio. You have to set this up correctly, by reversing servo movement if required and also by changes in the [i]swash menu[/i]. Just remember that reversing or changing the travel volume (amount of movement) of individual servos, only affects that particular servo. Changes to the swash menu affect all three servos. For example; the swash menu is where you make changes to the pitch extremes (usually negative and positive 10 degrees) as the servos must work together for this. Make sure that there is no binding or mechanical interference at the most extreme stick movements. Now, you're ready to set up you're tail servo/gyro ...
Posted on: 11/6/2007 8:53 PM by Author "clutchbob" in the forum "T-Rex heli"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6590403

RE: Ruined Lipo?
I gotta agree these batteries are too expensive to chance w/ cheap chargers/ balancers. I'll continue to use this pack, carefully.
Posted on: 10/29/2007 10:10 PM by Author "clutchbob" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6556397

RE: Battery pack soldering issues, Help!
If the surface is clean, and the solder isn't feathering and is balling up, you need to apply the heat more quickly, the surface you are soldering to is sinking the heat. This is a problem with soldering to large areas such as ground planes. Try using flux. I use a soldering [b]gun[/b] (higher wattage) to do battery contacts, I just make sure the tip is hot enough to melt solder before I touch the surface to be soldered with it, then melt just a little bit of solder on the surface to help conduct the heat, then apply the solder to the surface to be soldered close to but not touching the tip (this insures that the surface is hot enough to accept the solder). You need to apply a lot of heat quickly and then remove the heat as soon as it flows.
Posted on: 10/25/2007 10:13 PM by Author "clutchbob" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6539536

Ruined Lipo?
I have a cheap balancing charger that I got as a replacement from a recall that Hobby Lobby had with the chargers supplied with the Falcon 3D. I used it to charge a brand new pack of Flight Power Evolite 2500 3s. When I went to check how things were going, I noticed the balancer was very warm. I disconnected the charger and checked the voltages on the individual cells. The outside cells were fine (around 4.17V each), but the middle cell was 4.4V! I ran the pack down a bit and then recharged each cell individually through the balance connector. When I read the voltages after, the outside cells were again, around 4.17V), but now the middle cell reads 4.08v and wont charge any further. It doesn't appear to have puffed, but I'm afraid to use it in my $700 helicopter. Should I continue to use it as long as I watch it closely? I'd hate to think I've ruined this $80 pack. How much can voltage vary between cells before it's a problem?
Posted on: 10/25/2007 9:55 PM by Author "clutchbob" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6539444

RE: TREX SE V2 Build Log
I've been flying my V2 with FlightPower Evo Lite 2500mah 45A continuous. A bit heavier, but that's offset by the weight of the 9650 servo on my boom. They offer a bit more flight time, but I shut it down after 8 min. so I couldn't give you a maximum. The Celectra stuff from FMA is real quality stuff. Any adapter you need can be made if you have good soldering skills. I have a Heli-Max blade balancer, I don't think it was expensive at all. It will find the CG of an individual blade and also balance the pair. The blade tray rides on bearings and there's a bubble level to keep things precise. Part of the fun for me is in setting up my heli, so I enjoy doing this. I've found that the Align blades are pretty well balanced out of the box, but I have added tape to all of them. The more tools the better.
Posted on: 10/18/2007 12:36 PM by Author "clutchbob" in the forum "T-Rex heli"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6507206

RE: TREX SE V2 Build Log
I'm not sure how the JR DS285 servos compare to the HS 65s I used, but I installed my servos with the mounting tabs [b]inside[/b] the frame. This allowed a perfectly perpendicular link from all three servos to the swash. I think the suggestion to do this comes from "Finless". You have to install these with the upper frame halves apart and you have to grind down the stem of the ball link attached to the rearmost servo arm (easy to do- just stick a toothpick through the ball and file or grind the stem). This will make the length of the servo links different than what's given in the manual. You may not want to do this if you've already put the top and bottom frames together and it's not critical, just a suggestion. Whether you mount them inside or outside, don't forget to set your lowest servo arm on the correct side to prevent "hooking" the main gear. If your throws are set correctly, it won't be an issue, but as a precaution...
Posted on: 10/18/2007 12:59 AM by Author "clutchbob" in the forum "T-Rex heli"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6505631

RE: Kinda have it narrowed down...but still need help..
[quote]The only heli or flying experience I have is on my Real Flight G3.5, I've been practicing with the Axe EZ. Taking it totally seriously, not goofing around on it... [/quote] Dude, go do the orientation exercises in the training menu, I could fly my T-Rex in all upright orientations after two weeks of diligent practice. My advice is; If you want to learn how to fly helicopters with as little cost as possible, stay away from RTFs, get a good radio (less than $200) and get the best quality CP or CCPM you can afford. Spend time with that orientation trainer. If you want a "heli" you can fly, then get the EZ stuff.
Posted on: 9/28/2007 1:50 AM by Author "clutchbob" in the forum "RC Helicopter Beginners Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6423518

RE: COPILOT OR FLIGHT SIM?
Hey, you guys have something else in common... sort of (gentle ribbingly expressed).
Posted on: 9/28/2007 1:24 AM by Author "clutchbob" in the forum "RC Helicopter Beginners Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6423478

RE: Basic Heli controls (4 orientations)
You've ignored up and down in your description. You have six basic directions of movement not to mention that you can face any one of those directions (some more successfully than others). So now you can keep the marble centered on the glass, try keeping it centered while raising and lowering the glass! Actually it's not as hard as the marble on the glass analogy. A study should be done. Take two control groups with no heli experience, one group would practice the "marble on the glass" exercise and the other group would not. Then give them helis. Would the marble guys have an easier time? Hmm, I wonder.[;)]
Posted on: 9/28/2007 1:19 AM by Author "clutchbob" in the forum "RC Helicopter Beginners Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6423467

RE: First Heli? Advice
My advice is to stay away from RTFs. Part of your purchase price is for the electronics which tend to be inferior. Since you fly airplanes, you might consider getting a radio that can fly both. My Hitec has ten model memory, can be switched to any frequency and can be used for all aircraft. It was around $200, I didn't have to replace any receivers or crystals and I fly everything with it, You seem pretty determined to get a nitro bird. However, I find that even with wind considerations, I fly my electrics more often. Of course, I live in the city. You may have all kinds of open spaces and distant neighbors.
Posted on: 9/28/2007 12:56 AM by Author "clutchbob" in the forum "RC Helicopter Beginners Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6423422

RE: need help concept30 first heli
Hey Dirt, don't let your experience with the Venom 3D discourage you. I have successfully flown a Falcon 3D and now have a T-Rex but everytime I try to fly the Venom, I crash. It's way too sensitive for me and the tail just won't behave.
Posted on: 9/28/2007 12:34 AM by Author "clutchbob" in the forum "RC Helicopter Beginners Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6423383

RE: In total Shock......good shock
Yow! An intermittant radio is bad news. Try to find the source of the problem, it sounds like a loose connection. At least you know that it [u]can[/u] work. I'm sorry, I can't help you with your manual. Sanwa is JR, I think. A lot of things are probably standardized throughout thier product lines. Maybe a similar but well documented model can help you sort through the functions of your radio. Good luck.
Posted on: 9/28/2007 12:20 AM by Author "clutchbob" in the forum "RC Helicopter Beginners Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6423359

RE: New Mini Electric is here the Falcon 3D!!
I sold my Falcon to a freind and soon after, the motor fell apart. He reglued, but once again the motor fell apart. He's lost some internal parts this time, so he's looking for a new motor. Any suggestions?
Posted on: 9/27/2007 11:56 PM by Author "clutchbob" in the forum "RC Helicopter Beginners Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6423285

RE: COPILOT OR FLIGHT SIM?
Well I think diversity is a good thing, I've decided you can probably learn just as quickly either way. I can use the sim 'till I'm a 3D demon, but I still need to set up a real heli properly. I would guess that someone who's installed a copilot must know a lot about set-up and would be one leg up in this regard. However, being able to safely bring down a bird with an electronics failure is a good point. And please lighten up. I've learned something from both you guys. I think that if we were talking face to face and could hear the inflections and nuance in our dialogue we could tell the difference between good natured ribbing and outright insults. The printed page has it's limits.
Posted on: 9/27/2007 11:36 PM by Author "clutchbob" in the forum "RC Helicopter Beginners Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6423214

RE: The worlds most expensive McDonals toy.
[quote]I also recommend staying away from any of the 'cheap' RTF helis unless you just want to 'get your feet wet' to see if helis are for you. Even then, resist the temptation to upgrade. If you start upgrading one of those things, you will have dumped a ton of cash in it before you know it, and still won't have a very good heli.[/quote] I gotta agree. You're already hooked, you know you're gonna want a decent heli eventually, so don't bother with all the "step ups" in between. The T-Rex is a perfectly good first 'copter IMO if you have some stick time already or have a decent sim. I bought an RTF, but later bought a radio and an SE V2. The $300 I spent on the RTF was a waste of money. I purchased an SE V2 with 3 HS65 servos, a Fut 401 gyro, and 9650 dig. servo for about 650.00 Including shipping from Power Hobbies in Suffern NY. Another $170 for the Hitec Optic 6. With your budget, you could then pick up a Real Flight G3.5 sim. Apart from the setup, which can be helped with the "Finless" Videos, IMO, this is all you need.
Posted on: 9/27/2007 12:49 AM by Author "clutchbob" in the forum "T-Rex heli"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6417682

RE: The worlds most expensive McDonals toy.
Yes, it was the V2 with the thrust bearings, 4mm spindle shaft, new cf blades and new tail etc. This was about two months ago. I think he said he had ten remaining.
Posted on: 9/27/2007 12:47 AM by Author "clutchbob" in the forum "T-Rex heli"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6419073

RE: How do you Tach?
[quote]If you were afraid of accidentally taking off, you could program one of the idle-up modes you're not using with a flat pitch curve at a very slightly negative pitch (to keep it on the ground) and a linear throttle curve. [/quote] Of course!! Thanks guys, you so smaht.
Posted on: 9/27/2007 12:20 AM by Author "clutchbob" in the forum "T-Rex heli"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6419048

RE: First chopper/easy/ with upgrade capabilities
In my and many other opinions, the T-Rex is the best in the class. The T-Rex clones are nearly as good for half the cost and parts are compatible. You've been into RC for a while, you know what a pita it is to get an RTR or RTF with a pos radio that you're gonna have to replace. A big chunk of that RTF price is for the electronics, and RTF electronics, in my experience, has never made me happy. For a heli, good electronics are paramount. A general rule for me is to get as much quality as I can afford at the outset. In the long haul, I save money and my learning curve is reduced. Give me your budget and I can detail my suggestions.
Posted on: 9/27/2007 12:13 AM by Author "clutchbob" in the forum "RC Helicopter Beginners Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6419024

RE: Another newb
Hi, I started with a Falcon 3D at the beginning of the year. The huge Falcon thread was great with all the suggestions and tips I found there. Don't take lightly the suggestion to check your metal to metal fasteners when you get it. Use locktite. Don't cut anything but air with that tail rotor, keep it out of the grass. Make sure nothing can twist or shift on your tail boom. This will save you a lot of tail rebuilds. Apart from your sim training, set-up is very important. Don't take for granted that it's set-up correctly out of the box. I wonder how the Falcon se compares. My regular Falcon flew great, especially when I used a quality radio with pitch and throttle curves. I've since sold it and now have a T-Rex.
Posted on: 9/26/2007 11:50 PM by Author "clutchbob" in the forum "RC Helicopter Beginners Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6418949

RE: Being noisey LHS used a term
Find out what brand it was. I think mine will shut down if it gets too hot but will recover on it's own as it cools.
Posted on: 9/26/2007 7:43 PM by Author "clutchbob" in the forum "T-Rex heli"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6417996