RE: Hey, the moderator is away....what should we talk about?
Doc, in the long run I think bypassing the built in tank works best. A Hayes 2 oz tank and some Sullivan small fuel tubing will get you well on your way to happiness.
Posted on: 11/21/2009 3:12 AM by Author "combatpigg" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9269331

RE: Play nice while I'm away, m'kay?
Foodstick, don't you think the Space Shuttle is a little bit too big to be talking about here in the 1/2A Forum? [>:] Well, I guess if the rocket engines could be run on ground up Cox engines and Drano, it's OK......
Posted on: 11/21/2009 1:54 AM by Author "combatpigg" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9269286

RE: .40 SIZED FLYING WING
Still pecking away. Working this way instead of the old school plug & mold system saves work, but it's still tedious and bound to be heavier. I just hate to commit to a new design until a hack version has been tried. There's a few more spots to iron out then it'll be ready for primer.
Posted on: 11/21/2009 1:45 AM by Author "combatpigg" in the forum "Extreme Speed Prop Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9269273

RE: Play nice while I'm away, m'kay?
SR77, if we use that stuff it might not run any better than a Black Widow and if we use a 10x3 E prop at 8,000 rpm we're only going to get like 2 pounds of thrust. I think a lawn mower blade [non mulching] will do better for a prop. Food stick, anyone knows that doubleback tape works better than solder for that........[8|]
Posted on: 11/21/2009 1:20 AM by Author "combatpigg" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9269248

RE: Play nice while I'm away, m'kay?
Of Course! Gaseous boosts! Metal prop! Pointed spinner! No AMA #! Tetranitromethane injection! No snuffer tube!
Posted on: 11/21/2009 12:10 AM by Author "combatpigg" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9269157

RE: How to handle a difficult pilot!
True, he appears to be rubbing FCMG's nose in it. Should he be expected to just shut up and let everyone fly unchecked? Should he be expected to memorize everyone's membership status throughout the year? The easy thing to do is to just live and let live and hope for the best. I would be thankful if my County established a flying site and I sure would not want to do anything to have that priviledge pulled. I wouldn't want to see anyone else doing anything that would get the priviledge yanked, either.
Posted on: 11/20/2009 11:56 PM by Author "combatpigg" in the forum "AMA Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9269131

RE: Play nice while I'm away, m'kay?
Hey, maybe we should round up a big dufflebag full of those worthless Cox engines, feed 'em all to the 800 incher and show the video of the mercy killing here......[X(]!!
Posted on: 11/20/2009 11:41 PM by Author "combatpigg" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9269106

RE: Play nice while I'm away, m'kay?
I think a 55 gallon drum will look OK behind it for a tank. Set it up like a film can tank. Notice the 1/4" thick aluminum plate sticking out up front? That's the front motor mount for the car version. We'll need a firewall mount instead, like the one sold by Texas Timers, just bigger. Vic, we'll leave it up to you to rearrange the junk hanging off the front and fit it with a prop drive and a nice spinner too [not one of those el-cheapo heavy hubs, either]. Scale up a Goldberg 1/2A Lil Satan for it. This could be like the "Grace" project, except only "real" pilots will be eligible to take turns flying it.
Posted on: 11/20/2009 6:55 PM by Author "combatpigg" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9268412

RE: YAK 54
Eroc, looks like a show stopper! I like the plane that MrCox showed from Quality RC, too. Your fleet of .15 sized planes must be getting pretty large by now?
Posted on: 11/20/2009 1:38 PM by Author "combatpigg" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9267752

RE: Scale Combat Wingspan rules?
DD, like Hoss says, it doesn't take much extra effort to increase the span. You don't need to reengineer the kit. You're only looking at 2 inches per side. If I was to "cheat" in any direction, it would be with more span than required. 99.999% of your kills are taken with the wing. The guys on the combat rules commitees are quite convinced that they have already tried everything, flown everything and that the rules have no room for improvement. As you can see from the immense amount of message traffic that the combat forum gets, it's a highly successful program. [;)]
Posted on: 11/20/2009 1:20 PM by Author "combatpigg" in the forum "AMA Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9267733

RE: Play nice while I'm away, m'kay?
What's it gonna take to stick one of these into a GLH? The methanol version of this engine goes for about $90,000 which means I'll have to sell my Cyclon on ebay to finance this project. This engine is sold by Sonny Bryant, it's got 864 ci and about 2500 HP, based on the old Big Block Chevy, but completely different. This is his "product engine", it comes with a rod reset tool and plug wrench. Just think of it as about 6400 1/2A engines melted down and reassembled into a single unit. Forget about flip starting or hand launching this, it's gonna need at least one of those Hornet starters to crank this one. At 800 pounds or so, forget about using balsa spars, it's gonna need spruce with shear webs at least to mid span.
Posted on: 11/20/2009 12:44 PM by Author "combatpigg" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9267675

RE: Sequence of shimming vs nitro
[quote]ORIGINAL: mk1spitfire Great. A plug every run, is what I want to advoid. My 50v1 can go 10 runs at least. I had no idea to expect regular plug blows were common with well tuned engines [/quote] Common with high nitro, which I consider to be 40% or more. If the element is consumed to a chalky grey/white, the plug died with honor. If the element is missing and all there is left is a smoking hole, then that is your indicator that something is wrong.
Posted on: 11/19/2009 11:13 PM by Author "combatpigg" in the forum "Extreme Speed Prop Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9266653

RE: TD .049 mount
Pretty crafty metalsmithing! I tried to make a mount like that years ago and it cracked. Notice how those bends are nice and round.
Posted on: 11/19/2009 10:18 PM by Author "combatpigg" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9266528

RE: Weston Magnum/Nelson Q40 maidened today w/ video...176mph!!
It's probably a .001 or .0005" shim, it's like paper?... I'll bet stainless punches cleaner at this thickness.
Posted on: 11/19/2009 10:08 PM by Author "combatpigg" in the forum "Extreme Speed Prop Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9266494

RE: Weston Magnum/Nelson Q40 maidened today w/ video...176mph!!
You always want to use the least amount of compression that you can get away with. Always tune from the conservative side going toward the more stressfull. Be leery of a new prop, especially if you anticipate it to be more load. Take note of your set up as you have it now and the mph. A higher load prop might make the needle hard to set and lowering the compression will allow the engine to work with the extra load. It might take removing some diameter to make a higher pitched prop do better than the first prop you tried. If the engine is acting "cranky" about a bigger prop, don't fly it until you figure out why. I would fly the prop you had success with and get to know it before doing a lot of prop changes. With a steady hand, a $20 dial caliper can help you know what head clearance you are running, how thick those shims are, how big of a drill bit you need for a certain hole, all sorts of valuable uses. I reach for it every day in the workshop.
Posted on: 11/19/2009 9:57 PM by Author "combatpigg" in the forum "Extreme Speed Prop Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9266466

RE: Pitts or Ultimate
Ever flown the Goldberg .60 sized Ultimate? Easy as any trainer with conservative throws.
Posted on: 11/19/2009 8:36 PM by Author "combatpigg" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9266274

RE: Sequence of shimming vs nitro
We're assuming that you know how to sneak up on the best needle setting over the course of several runs... assuming that the pipe is tuned for the prop being used, at least roughly.... assuming you are running a bubble free fuel system... assuming stout engine mounts... assuming the prop isn't too much for the recommended rpm. Diameter and pitch numbers don't tell the whole story ..heat range? What's THAT? Just get a plug in there with a heavy duty [thick] element and use the throttle just for an engine kill, not for throttling. The rest is pretty simple, use a tach, and good notes to arrive at the best all around setting that you can live with. I don't know if Weston changes the stock head, but I always thought Webra was a 5% nitro engine?
Posted on: 11/19/2009 8:25 PM by Author "combatpigg" in the forum "Extreme Speed Prop Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9266232

RE: How to handle a difficult pilot!
[quote]ORIGINAL: wahoo Ok a bunch of guys want to start a club and make all sorts of rules Right?? RIGHT!!! What, "all sorts of rules" are you talking about? The general public DOES NOT NEED TO ADHERE TO ANY OF THEM !!! PLAIN AND SIMPLE Oh, man........[8|] [/quote]
Posted on: 11/19/2009 6:48 PM by Author "combatpigg" in the forum "AMA Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9265991

RE: Weston Magnum/Nelson Q40 maidened today w/ video...176mph!!
Yes, when they are new you can practically pull the liner by yanking on the plug. Hi-Po engine makers pay closer attention to this detail. There is a lot of buzzing going on up there. This is one reason why Cyclon, Fora and Profi have screw on heads. This is one of the downfalls of the G&Z .061, the 4 bolts don't do the job as well.
Posted on: 11/19/2009 6:34 PM by Author "combatpigg" in the forum "Extreme Speed Prop Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9265954

RE: Sequence of shimming vs nitro
If you are talking about a piped screamer, approach it like you would if you're tuning a diesel...start with a compression that barely runs and subtract shims from there. If you aren't happy with the expected results, then raise the liner a couple thousandths. Always monitor the glow plugs, there is no excuse for obliterating them on every run, but a well tuned engine on high nitro will consume a plug about every run. With 30% or less nitro you should get several runs per plug. Weak engine mounts will eat plugs, too. Engines with low nitro chambers shouldn't be run with much higher nitro than what is called out.
Posted on: 11/19/2009 6:17 PM by Author "combatpigg" in the forum "Extreme Speed Prop Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9265918

RE: Weston Magnum/Nelson Q40 maidened today w/ video...176mph!!
That's how I used to make head buttons from scratch. Yes, chuck it up and fine sand it to a shine. The problem with heads on high rpm engines is that the snug fit into the liner goes away and allows it to chatter, which the engine will injest. If the good fit is still there, then redressing the chamber would buy the part some more time. If you know what the squish clearance is beforehand, it can be reestablished on the lathe, but a slightly lower compression head could be beneficial in some cases.
Posted on: 11/19/2009 5:00 PM by Author "combatpigg" in the forum "Extreme Speed Prop Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9265728

RE: GMS 47 = garbage
I bought a giant scale filter 20+ years ago for the fuel jug and have had to clean it just a couples times in all those years. The more clogged and matted it gets with fine hairs, etc., the better of a filter it becomes. I draw fuel directly out with a 2 oz or 5 oz monoject syringe and almost never have dirty fuel issues, not even with the tiny .049 engines. GMS must have improved their quality recently, I've heard way more good than bad about them. I bought a .25 years ago and it seemed well made except it didn't have any "pop!" when you flipped it and it didn't have as much power as it's competitors. But it always ran.
Posted on: 11/19/2009 4:46 PM by Author "combatpigg" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9265696

RE: Weston Magnum/Nelson Q40 maidened today w/ video...176mph!!
I'm going to try Hoppes #9 and a plastic bristle brush. I used to clean my TD .049s after every outing this way, [with a gun cleaning kit]. There is a valve face cleaning tool I've seen used at machine shops, if it is like a Scotch Green pad it will remove carbon without disturbing metal and the Hoppes should loosen/dissolve the carbon.
Posted on: 11/19/2009 1:48 PM by Author "combatpigg" in the forum "Extreme Speed Prop Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9265360

RE: Screamin Demon .65 build thread
The tank liner for this plane...is that going to be easy to do? A seperate compartment off to the side for the MCV is a good idea. One detail I need to master to make all these ideas seem like no big deal is how to rig hidden fasteners and possibly use top hinging with glass cloth on some of these hatches. If you riddle the cowl full of holes for refueling access, etc., it tends to encourage "gas and go" type flying. In the beginning the cowl should be pulled every flight. Eventually all the screws holding things down take a set. For a rear intake engine, make sure there is no possibility of anything small getting sucked into the engine. Everyone here has heard me cry about ruining a KB6.5 with a stupid lockwasher [only morons use lock washers on hi-perf machinery] From flight to flight, it's amazing what I find in the cowls, mostly grass clippings and wheat berries. Is there a screen that OS or BVM has for the intakes? It's scary to read about how some engines have carbs that lose parts into the engine, I believe TT is one brand that this happens with.
Posted on: 11/19/2009 1:03 PM by Author "combatpigg" in the forum "Extreme Speed Prop Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9265276

RE: Play nice while I'm away, m'kay?
Have fun Bruce! If anyone tries to show off any .16s, we'll be sure to report them to the authorities, Sir.
Posted on: 11/19/2009 2:32 AM by Author "combatpigg" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9264505

RE: Scoundrel build thread
TB, she looks GREAT! That silver makes her look like a real plane. Bring a coffee can full of engines with ya next time, that's the best "tech tip" I know of.
Posted on: 11/19/2009 12:48 AM by Author "combatpigg" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9264403

RE: Weston Magnum/Nelson Q40 maidened today w/ video...176mph!!
I don't know the thermal dynamic reason, but carbon sucks. I don't like disturbing the liner positioning once the engine is "set", but I haven't run these engines long enough to have gone through the cleaning routine. There should be a safe way to clean the piston without pulling the engine apart? Injecting water in a car engine while it's running WFO blows out carbon, but I've never pulled the heads afterwards to see how good a job it did.....[;)] If there is a shim, it could have glued itself to the top of the liner, I've been fooled before. After thinking about it, if the carbon builds up to a measurable thickness, it effects liner timing. It also can remain glowing in automobile engines and cause spark knock, maybe in model engines too? The build up really gets out of hand in model diesel engines and they get sluggish.
Posted on: 11/19/2009 12:37 AM by Author "combatpigg" in the forum "Extreme Speed Prop Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9264383

RE: Screamin Demon .65 build thread
That looks really good, MJD! The cowl will put this kit "over the top" for guys wanting to get the most out of their speed plane project. I'd just pop a good looking hole or slit in front with what you've got for tools on hand. A little grinding wheel/cone makes a good tool for cleaning up edges by hand. Lately I've used a Forstner bit with a wood backing to make starter holes. A small holesaw in reverse works safely. What did you go with for a cloth build up?
Posted on: 11/18/2009 10:50 PM by Author "combatpigg" in the forum "Extreme Speed Prop Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9264186

RE: Need speed proppeller,Patriot,O.S.95AX
Outside of a few exceptions shown here at RCU, like Robs' Komet and the .90 powered delta shown recently, I've never seen anything .90 powered in this area that you could say was fast. Most of the fields have 300 feet or less of runway, with all sorts of evil stuff in the background to contend with. It would add a lot of variety to see big speed projects around here but they're as rare as hens' teeth.
Posted on: 11/18/2009 10:30 PM by Author "combatpigg" in the forum "Extreme Speed Prop Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9264131

RE: .40 SIZED FLYING WING
Progress wasn't real good today. I should know better, and will from now on...4 oz cloth is too stiff to laminate in multiple layers around outside curves like this. I ended up with a bunch of air pockets between layers that had to be peeled back and touched up. The forms were probably strong enough to set up a mini-vac-bag operation at a low pressure. Any low pressure applied would have saved me work. I also scrapped the pushrod cowls and re-did them. These aren't canoe covers, but they're better looking than the first attempt. You guys are a tough crowd...[sm=pirate.gif]
Posted on: 11/18/2009 10:11 PM by Author "combatpigg" in the forum "Extreme Speed Prop Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9264084