RE: Engines with two rings???
I have a 40cc Echo blower engine that has 3 rings....... imagine 3 Bowman rings..... you really only need one and may be much better than 3 but i really hate to get into all that again. i dont care how many rings you got. more rings dont garuntee a good seal. you could have 4 rings with a worse seal than a single ring with a great seal. condition of the parts is everything and the only way to know how good a seal you have is with a leakdown testor. man i really hate to go into that again.
Posted on: 8/26/2009 5:56 PM by Author "combatpilot" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9047452

RE: Homelite 33cc
the silicone line looked like it was coming from the fuel tank in the plane and thats why it looked like it was backwards. I would get rid of the primer bulb in your line and just go straight gas line. take a syringe and hook it to you primer port with a bit of fuel line. use it to pull fuel into the carb then force a small amount back into the carb to prime and it should start pretty easy then. remove syringe and block port.
Posted on: 7/7/2009 7:11 AM by Author "combatpilot" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8912840

RE: Homelite 33cc
I can see from the pic that you got the fuel lines on backwards. your in line is on the primer port and the primer line is on the inlet. also im not sure how long that silicon fuel line is gona last with gas if it is in fact silicone. but hey dont take my word for it im sure there are far smarter and far more qualified people on here than I.
Posted on: 7/6/2009 10:07 PM by Author "combatpilot" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8912024

RE: 28 degree magnet placement?
you all might find this hard to belive but i got nothing to say on this subject. Im pretty much done with the forum altogether lol.
Posted on: 6/22/2009 9:12 AM by Author "combatpilot" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8870914

RE: xyz cdi
OMG this is just unreal. I just saw the video. I will concede that you do seem to have a pretty good feel on finding TDC with the slop method. Still this is not garunteed accurate. Funny how you back it up with the piston stop method which is the only true way to know for sure. Granted i will give it to you that you do seem to be pretty accurate with your method but still it is not garunteed. I would not have belived it had i not seen it. michal wood replies. [quote]what are all the parts used to make a piston stop? the way you did that was so super easy thanks michael [/quote] Which is what i been working so hard to try to get you all to understand. Can not one of you bite your pride and concede to me that the piston stop method is absolutly accurate easy to do and not expensive and my time and effort and frustration was worth something???? I just dont understand how you can work so hard to discredit my info then steal my idea to make a video using and describing the very methods i use and describe and now suddenly their right?
Posted on: 6/19/2009 1:37 PM by Author "combatpilot" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8864726

RE: xyz cdi
No captn once again you misunderstand me. i feel like the song Oh god why should i be so misunderstood. i was reffering to my idea of making a video. anhow i do regreat saying that as i have since talked to milton on the phone. He is a super nice guy and very knowlegeable. i hope the two of us has reached some sort of understanding on the points and methods that we were trying to convey on this forum and i feel at this point there is no ill will on either part. thank god there is now a video so there is a visual representation of this method as describing it here just dosent seem to work. In fact i invite any of you to call me so we can hopefully put any of this behind us and clear anything up. pm me and i will give you my number.
Posted on: 6/19/2009 1:24 PM by Author "combatpilot" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8864871

RE: xyz cdi
Well i guess well just have to chaulk it up as a case of pure magic LOL.Words removed by moderator
Posted on: 6/19/2009 2:33 AM by Author "combatpilot" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8836499

RE: Homelite 33cc
Man i would love to do that but if i had to write you a check for that amount right now it would bounce lol. Im that bad off at the moment.
Posted on: 6/16/2009 3:25 PM by Author "combatpilot" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8856936

RE: xyz cdi
Yea I really would like to do a video on it. I think i know who can help me put it all together but i need a new ignition box.
Posted on: 6/16/2009 3:23 PM by Author "combatpilot" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8856932

RE: Homelite 33cc
Avi8tor i think it was you that told me tht the number in the venturi of a carb is the venturi size in 64ths. Man I got to thank you for that. it makes carb identification so easy. I dont come across many chain saw engines at the engine shop bin. i did score a 46 cc tht im hanging onto lol. I do hope i can get lucky like you and score one of these. i really like how they have the carb on the side. the ryobis are such a pain with them on the rear.
Posted on: 6/16/2009 11:44 AM by Author "combatpilot" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8856472

RE: xyz cdi
[quote]TDC Piston stop. setup degree wheel and pointer. Install P.S .turn engine until the piston hits the stop, record number of degrees. Turn engine other way until the piston hits the stop. record number. Add numbers, divide by 2. With the piston against the stop, fudge the degree wheel until the magic number is under the pointer. To validate your math turn the engine the other way until it hits the stop. The degrees should be the same. Of course one will be BTDC and the other will be ATDC Example 15 deg BTDC and 35 deg ATDC added = 50 degrees, divide by 2 = 25 degrees. Set the degree wheel so that the pointer reads 25 degrees BTDC & ATDC when the piston is against the stop. Using a piston stop is more accurate than a dial indicator simply because it will load the Boca Bearings has the most comprehensive RC Bearing search engine on the internet! bearings and remove ALL the slack from them. On a simple single its super easy to use. . On a multi cylinder with heads and accessories on its a major PIA as Battle Axe Kits from TreneffRC are the finest Combat kits available! combat pilot explained A dowel can shift, get a long reach spark plug and make a piston stop. WORD OF WARNING IF YOU FINALLGET IT RIGHT, DONT tell anybody in your club. If you brag about being able to time an engine you will endup timing everybody's engine anytime it burps. Make every body think its Rocket Science, even though its so simple after a few times. [/quote] Terry i think your right when you say its more accurate then a dial indicator. I think the method describe above is the best way ive heard it described. I really have to thank avi8tor for turning me on to the piston stop. Its so freaking simple lol.
Posted on: 6/16/2009 11:32 AM by Author "combatpilot" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8856432

RE: xyz cdi
Michael did you finally use and understand the piston stop method? If you did can you now see why using a dowl to try and feel the piston dead spot would not work real accurate. Its not that hard to make a piston stop. Its so simple once you understand it. Sounds like you got it right this time if your engine is running that good. Isnt it nice to know your dead on where it should be and you dont have to guess and hand tune it? Like I say this subject has been discussed to death on here. I just dont understand why it is so hard to understand when the process is so simple. I think if I can afford to get another ignition box and i can find someone to video and edit me, I will make a video of this process and place it on youtube. It really seems there needs to be an instructional video of this.
Posted on: 6/16/2009 11:24 AM by Author "combatpilot" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8856404

RE: Homelite 33cc
Wow all stripped down it looks to be a pretty sharp engine. With the performane numbers you guys are getting out of them it makes me mad im so damn broke or i would go get one of these. Maybee i will get luck and find one in the recycle bin at the lawnmower shop. What size carb are you guys using to get the 8200 rpm on an 18-8 prop?
Posted on: 6/16/2009 12:10 AM by Author "combatpilot" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8855493

RE: Homelite 33cc
Post a picture of it. I am wondering how it compares to the poulan 32 cc which i have 3 of and am considering using that for my next project.
Posted on: 6/13/2009 9:45 PM by Author "combatpilot" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8849890

RE: xyz cdi
how are you finding tdc. i really like the method avi8tor posted but havent had a chance to try it yet. you must be at true tdc to be accurate.
Posted on: 6/12/2009 4:04 PM by Author "combatpilot" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8847225

RE: another darn ryobi post (ryobi performance modification, analysis and comparison)
Jack i just realized what you were talking about. you are using a single cell lipo and thats whay you reffered to the lower voltage. duh sometimes i suprise myself lol.
Posted on: 6/12/2009 10:34 AM by Author "combatpilot" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8846560

RE: another darn ryobi post (ryobi performance modification, analysis and comparison)
Im not sure where it came from. I bought it second hand from a friend of mine. he gets his somewhere online. i cant remeber the name of it but i know its not cheapbatterypacks.com I will ask him next time i talk to him.
Posted on: 6/12/2009 10:32 AM by Author "combatpilot" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8846553

RE: xyz cdi
[quote]If the timing is to far advanced, like 35 + deg BTDC then it may develop a HS speed miss, almost like it is to rich. BUT you can't tune it out using the carb needles. [/quote] That would be as not set dead on 28 degrees right???? Ok lets say just for argument sake that it is set spot on 28 degrees just like its supposed to be. At that point wouldnt you look at the carb???? thanks for the info Ralph
Posted on: 6/11/2009 10:57 PM by Author "combatpilot" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8845656

RE: xyz cdi
I do understand that it is a new carb. I dont think that necassarily garuntees that the diapram is set right. also i got no way of knowing that your actually set to 28 deg. al i can do is take your word for it. I dont know if the best timming is variable per engine so i was asking someone that has set up way more of them than I as i have only set up one and it ran spot on at 28 degree. I am very certian i have or should say had before it crapped out, mine set precicely at 28 degrees.
Posted on: 6/11/2009 10:43 PM by Author "combatpilot" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8845613

RE: another darn ryobi post (ryobi performance modification, analysis and comparison)
I got a chance to fly my plane with the ryobi again today after i put the stock ignition back on. it didnt add back much weight but the thing i didnt figure in was the weight was moved furtuther out to the nose so now it is nose heavy. I may have to go back with a electronic again for the weight distribution. Also my carb was so worn out from all the testing that i decided to go ahead and and install one of the wt577s i got on ebay. while convering it I noticed this carb actually has an acellerator pump that is run off of the throttle shaft. this carb lends itself well to conversion and runs great [quote]I use a single cell 1800 mah LiPoly battery to power my CHXL (essentially an RCEXL) ignition. It weighs a fraction of the weight of a NIXX battery and it runs fine at the lower voltage. Check out the CH ignition web site for tests that Bill has done on ignition function vs. supply battery voltage. [/quote] Jack are you sugesting that maybee my battery voltage was not adequate? I had wondered that myself and checked my battery several times and the voltage was 5.95-5.97 every time i checked. I am using a 1800 mah nicad battery
Posted on: 6/11/2009 10:31 PM by Author "combatpilot" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8845582

RE: xyz cdi
Ralph woudnt you agree that if the ignition is correctly set to 28. and i do mean correctly. then if it is misfiring at wide open and it cant be tuned out with the needle vavle then maybee the diapram settin isnt right. Would you agree that changing the timming at this point is just adjusting around a improperly working carburetor? Am i just way off on this????
Posted on: 6/11/2009 10:12 PM by Author "combatpilot" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8845540

RE: another darn ryobi post (ryobi performance modification, analysis and comparison)
[quote]On the plastic back cover 3 holes for the cover screwa are raised and 1 is flush on my motor. Would trueing the cover in a lathe be a good ideal. I have a 7 10 lathe. [/quote] I dont think it needs to be that technical. i trued mine on a belt sander. it wouldnt hurt though. kind of hard to chuck up as the backplate is kind of tapered. [quote]Thanks combatpilot . Then would the Rcexl
Posted on: 6/9/2009 11:59 PM by Author "combatpilot" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8840154

RE: another darn ryobi post (ryobi performance modification, analysis and comparison)
Sounds like a fun project. Sorry i dont have a drawing for the plate. i just drew mine out myself and cut it out of a square pice of 3/16" aluminum plate. i cut out the center with a hole saw. I dont have the dimensions but i can get them tommorow maybee. On the XYZ ignition. Mine failed this weekend causing a very frustating weekend. if you do go with the xyz or any electronic ignition for that matter I would keep all your stock parts and keep them with you as a back up just in case your electronic decides to poop out at a flying event. I wish i had mine with me i would have taken all the sensor parts off left the battery and ignition box in and wired the plug lead out of the way, installed stock ignition and kept on a flying. Honestly you really dont need the electronic and there really isnt much advantage to it. I dont think im gona bother replacing mine. Oh yea i think mine failed cause it got gas soaked from a fuel leak in the fuel line.
Posted on: 6/9/2009 9:36 PM by Author "combatpilot" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8839757

RE: Ryobi question
I have never seen a lefthanded one. thats not to say there not out there but i have never seen one.
Posted on: 6/8/2009 4:04 PM by Author "combatpilot" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8835975

RE: xyz cdi
sounds to me like your using your timming to compensate for what tuning your lacking in your carberation. If you are accurattly set at 28 deg and it misfires or what has been reffered to as four stroking ( cause it sounds like a four stroke motor) then it has to be that your carb is not set right or you have a carb problem. Also I went to spad fest saturday. man what a cool event. Everyone said I had the best running ryobi they have ever seen. Looking at some of the other planes i really want to do a quad spad with ryobi engines. I think i got next winters project lol.
Posted on: 6/8/2009 3:19 PM by Author "combatpilot" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8835866

RE: xyz cdi
Man I have never heard of that method but yea that would work great. See it just goes to show no matter how long you been doing anything there is ALWAYS something new to learn. its nice to know you have your engine set up dead nuts. sure takes all the wondering and guess work out of it.
Posted on: 6/4/2009 8:35 AM by Author "combatpilot" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8824643

RE: xyz cdi
Ok Jim. I am not worried about beating you up as much as you taking it that way lol. Learning is why were all here. Ok so here is the method to get it dead nut right on. When you rotate the piston to tdc there could be as much as a 6 degree dead spot where you can rotate the crank and there will be no piston movement. the idea is to set your degree wheel right in the middle of this to where you have equal amount of dead spot before and after 0 deg on your degree wheel. so you can see by eyballing it you can be as much as 6 deg off right off the bat. there is two methods that can be used to acomplish this. first uses a dial indiacator and the second uses port timming to set the wheel. first method. you must mount a dial indicator to where you can measure piston travel. i used an old spark plug and made an adapter that goes in the plug hole and then clamps the dial indicator in place. the degree wheel is also installed in this process. ok so with the dial indicator and the degree wheel installed you rotate the crank till the piston stops moving. set dial indicator to 0 and move deree wheel to zero. rotate the wheel back and then slowly rotate it till the dial indicator just stops. note this number on the degree wheel. keep rotating it till it just starts moving and note this number. the difference is the number of degrees the piston trave is dead. move the degree wheel to where 0 is in the center of this dead spot. ie if you have a 4 degree dead spot there should be 2 deg bfore 0 on the degree wheel and 2 degree after 0 on the wheel. It is absolutly imposible to acuratly see when the piston stops and starts moving without a dial indicator. Ok second method. If the piston has a dead spot at tdc then it stands to reason that there is a dead spot at bottom dead center. true tdc can be found by finding true bdc using the port timming. how do we find port timming? install degree wheel and remove muffler. rotate crank through and looking into the exhaust port slowwly rotate and stop when the piston just opens the exhaust port. note this number. keep rotating through and stop when the piston just closes the exhaust port. the difference between the two numbers is the exhaust timming. ie if the exhaust opens at 250 degrees and closes at 110 then the port timming is 140 degrees. There should be an exact number of degrees from port opening to bottom dead center as there will be BDC to port closing. meaning if port timming is 140 degrees there will be 70 degrees from port opening to bdc and 70 degrees from BDC to port closing. Ok so we know the port timming and we know how many degrees there should be from port opening to bdc. so rotate the crank till you reach where the port just opens again. set your degree wheel to where it is half the port timming before BDC. rotate through till the port just closes. it should be the exact number of degrees after bdc that you set the degree wheel for when the port opened. if not keep adjusting till you have equal amount of degree before and after BDC from port opening to port closing. now you have true bdc set and it will also be set for true TDC as it is exactly 180 opposite. Make sense? ok now we need to set the spark timming. This is the procedure that i was told to use by ralph at ch ignitions and it does work. Dont worry about any of the computerized advancing or retarding of the spark with this procedure as the ignition will know what you are doing and it will not advance or retard while you are doing this. Ralph says the box is smarter than any three areomodelers put together and i think he is so right on this. with degree wheel set at true tdc and all ignition parts installed and battery installed and ignition turned on slowly rotate the crank till the ignition sparks. not this number. this is where the sark timming is set. ie if it sparks a 16 deg before TDC then yo have 16 degrees of advanced timming. do this a few times to make sure you have the right spot. adjust your sensor so that when you rotate the crank through very slowly it will spark at 28 degree before TDC. you will now be set dead nuts at 28 deg BTDC. This is how i set mine and it runs dead nut perfect. if i move any direction from this setting there is absolutly no power gain and only worsens performance. I hope now you can see that when you say you set it to 28 degrees as you did in this post [quote] was having a problem with my Ryobi missing a little at WOT. No adjusting on the needles would change anything. I thought it was running rich. Was running an RCexl ignition set at 28 degrees.[/quote] is very misleading information. you actually have no idea that you were actually at 28 degree. i really think what happened is that you were way off of 28 degrees and by hand and ear tunning you manged to find a spot on or near 28 degrees to where the engine ran satisfactorily. again you have absolutly no idea what your engine is set at. Again not trying to beat you up on this but just trying to help you understand what you have.
Posted on: 6/3/2009 10:10 PM by Author "combatpilot" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8823794

RE: Need help with Walbro Anatomy
[quote]TIG one of the most challenging things I've ever tried to master, but it sure feels good when it comes out like it's supposed to. Practice practice, more argon, practice... [/quote] I know and its so much fun to do isnt it.
Posted on: 6/3/2009 10:43 AM by Author "combatpilot" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8822078

RE: xyz cdi
Jim from what your describing you used your timming wheel to figure out where you located your sensor and magnet. It sounds to me like no procedure was used to find true tdc and you dont know if your degree wheel was set at true tdc. not really necassary to just located where you want your mag and sensor as a few degrees here or there wont matter, but very necassary to get your spark set correctly at the desired degree of 28 deg btdc. then it sounds like you installed the magnet and the sensor and no procedure was used to verify what the spark timming actually was. the engine was then run and the timming was adjusted by hand and ear to what you consider to be the sweet spot. so in all actuallity you have no idea what you timming is actually set to right? Im not trying to beat you up on this im just trying to understand your method.
Posted on: 6/3/2009 10:36 AM by Author "combatpilot" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8822061

RE: xyz cdi
Jim how did you set up your timming when you set it at the inital 28 degree?
Posted on: 6/2/2009 6:30 PM by Author "combatpilot" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8820608