RE: HOR Racing 32
A quick update to this thread! I finished the boat, with the following specs: Hull: 32.3" RC Catamaran (hull only) from R2Hobbies (reinforced with carbon fibre) Hardware from HOR Racing Motor: Leopard 4074 2000kv brushless motor with cooling jacket ESC: 180A Turnigy marine (water cooled) Batteries: 4S: Turnigy 4000mah 40C (2x2S) Prop: Balanced and polished x447 Transmitter: Spektrum DX3S Receiver: Spektrum MR3000 Rudder Servo: Futaba S3003 Maximum speed: 83.7km/h This maximum speed was recorded with no camera on the boat, and the GPS mounted inside at the front of the hull. This added weight at the front made the ride much flatter and smoother - in the videos below you can see the hull starts bouncing at around 3/4 throttle. In the videos, maximum speed is probably around 40-50km/h. Front view: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6ZK43lFQzoU Rear view: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AHnRggYsalc I've ordered another 1S lipo so I can run it on 5S - that way I'll get maximum performance out of the 2000kv motor (and the added weight in the front will help). Andrew
Posted on: 1/2/2012 8:00 AM by Author "cowana" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10887587

RE: My aquacraft 1800kv toasted
A high resistance solder joint will cause a larger voltage drop over the connector. This results in more heat being generated at the connector, but also less voltage getting to the motor. THis will reduce the current the motor draws, and the power the motor dissipates. Therefore, a high resistance solder joint will actually create less heat in the motor - the connector dissipates the extra power. A
Posted on: 10/14/2011 2:26 AM by Author "cowana" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10764552

RE: Bad solder joints = Heat?
The actual solder joints will get warm, as they have a high resistance, so dissipate more power (in the form of heat). However, bad solder joints on the connectors will not cause the pack to get warm - only the actual soldering will get warm. If the pack is getting warm, it is because you are drawing a high current from it, and the packs internal resiatance is causing the heating. A
Posted on: 8/7/2011 5:07 AM by Author "cowana" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10659216

RE: Aquacraft ep1 problem (please help!) Urgent.
I'm not familiar with the EP1, but nearly it sounds like the coupler that connects the motor to the shaft of the outboard has come loose. There should be a setscrew that connects them - does this need tightning?
Posted on: 6/30/2011 4:30 AM by Author "cowana" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10599514

RE: First FE flex/strut - OK?
BackEMF - my mistake - that's actually a X445, not a x447. I've also got some smaller props to try to. I'm planning to run 4S1P with 4000mAh, 40C cells, although I'm pretty likely to get another set and run 4S2P to get longer run times. The 4000mAh 40C packs are much smaller and lighter than I expected. A
Posted on: 6/20/2011 9:25 PM by Author "cowana" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10584522

First FE flex/strut - OK?
I'm constructing my first FE boat - a 32" cat from R2Hobbies. There are a few threads on here about this particular boat. The design is nice and the sponsons are very sharp - the only negative is that the fibreglass is very thin. I sorted that by adding carbon fibre to the hull between the sponsons. I'm planning to use a Leopard 4074 (2000kv) on 4s, with a Hobbywing 180A ESC. Hardware is a HOR Racing strut and rudder with a 4mm flexshaft, going to an Octura X447. I know 3/16" flex would be stronger, but it's too late for that now. This is my first boat with a flexshaft - I've heard that the centre of the strut should be level with the bottom of the sponsons. This is how it's set up at the moment (see the photos). However, the boat is very shallow and light - I'm expecting it to sit high in the water, and it looks like about 50% of one prop blade will be out of the water when the boat is at rest. My instinct is to put the prop lower so it is definitly submerged, but I thought I'd check with the experts first! So; - is the centre of the prop level with the sponsons correct for such a shallow boat? The motor mount is currently unglued and the brass propshaft is uncut - I'll wait for some answers before doing anything major. Many thanks Andrew
Posted on: 6/20/2011 11:17 AM by Author "cowana" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10583715

RE: Cat 36� from R2hobbies (Hong Kong)
Can you have one battery at the front and one right at the back (behind the wood)? That might balance it better - they don't have to be side by side.
Posted on: 6/13/2011 1:22 AM by Author "cowana" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10570851

RE: Do Chicks Dig Radio Control Model Cars?
The redhead's picture - what's the (servo/battery?) connector handing out the top right of the radio? Looks a bit out of place!
Posted on: 6/8/2011 4:07 AM by Author "cowana" in the forum "RC Car General Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10562774

RE: SV 27 Rc Boat
You should be able to bend that back. The cable is flexible, so it won't mind a slight bend in the tube. Obviously the greater the bend, the more power is wasted, but if you un-bend it by hand as best you can, it'll work just fine. Andrew
Posted on: 5/22/2011 1:18 AM by Author "cowana" in the forum "RC Boats General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10533704

RE: HOR Racing 32
For anyone looking at this thread for reference, [link=http://www.r2hobbies.com/eng/proddetail.php?prod=rcbt0452001_code]this is the boat I have ordered[/link]. Right - that's everything ordered: Turnigy/Seaking 180A ESC Leopard 2000kv 4074 motor 32" fibreglass cat hull (yellow and black gelcoat) Two 2s lipos (4000mah, 40C) All the hardware from HOR A cooling jacket for the motor A 3/16" sleeve for the prop I'm really looking forward to this project - hopefully it should keep me busy building for a few months! Andrew
Posted on: 5/17/2011 7:34 AM by Author "cowana" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10521004

RE: HOR Racing 32
I've read up a lot on it on various forums. It seems that when it was initially released (June 2010), the gelcoat was a little rough in places - all the reviews and comments from 2011 boats say that the gelcoat is excellent quality and very flat. As for the hull being poorly made - it is a $65 hull - I'm not expecting it to be perfect straight away. In addition, I'm not trying to break any speed records. Andrew
Posted on: 5/16/2011 1:43 AM by Author "cowana" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10522599

RE: HOR Racing 32
I think it'll be OK. I'm planning to add a couple of layers of carbon fibre around the points where the motor is attached, the shaft leave the hull, and where the rudder/strut attaches to the transom. If it's not rigid enough, I'm also considering glassing in some 6x6mm beech stringers along the length of the hull. As I said in post 18, that's the sort of project / modification I enjoy doing - I usually end up only using the boats a couple of times once I have finished building them - then I want a new project :)! Are there any other sorts of quality issue I need to watch out for apart from rigidity and flexing? Andrew
Posted on: 5/15/2011 3:58 PM by Author "cowana" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10521769

RE: Looking for a new hull
I've ended up going for a 32" cat from R2hobbies. http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_10517683/tm.htm Andrew
Posted on: 5/15/2011 10:03 AM by Author "cowana" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10521233

RE: HOR Racing 32
Wow - get that boat directly from R2hobbies, and it's £5 cheaper than ebay. Register on their site, and they take another 10% off. That leaves that hull at $65 - amazing! I've now placed my order with them for the hull - thanks to everyone who helped me decide what to get. I'll place my order with HOR for the hardware in a moment. Andrew
Posted on: 5/15/2011 7:46 AM by Author "cowana" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10520946

RE: HOR Racing 32
Thanks again Brad. My opinion keeps flipping between them - I'm now back to the ebay hull! I enjoy making and working on my boats most, and I'm more than happy to reinforce or add more fibreglass. In fact, thinking about it, I prefer fibreglassing to painting (I'm much better at it) - so I'd be better off with a coloured hull that needs reinforcing than a strong white hull that needs painting. That would make the ebay boat a much more attractive option, as I'm not particually looking forward to having to paint the entire outside. So, in summary, I'm now decided on all the HOR hardware, and that ebay hull. If no-one can see any obvious problems with that, I'll go for it! Andrew
Posted on: 5/15/2011 6:44 AM by Author "cowana" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10520901

RE: HOR Racing 32
Thanks Brad - that doesn't surprise me. I'm sure a HOR hull is going to be better than a no brand ebay one. I'll stick with the HOR hull then. Andrew
Posted on: 5/15/2011 3:55 AM by Author "cowana" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10520758

RE: HOR Racing 32
Another question: I've found an almost identical hull on ebay: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/32-3-EP-Fibreglass-RC-Godspeed-U-Catamaran-Hull-Boat-/220662533257?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item3360830c89 The price works out to be exactly the same once postage is factored in. The hull looks to be a relitivly similar moulding. I'd rather have a yellow and black hull than a plain white one - are there any disadvantages to getting the 'unknown' hull from ebay? Would you recommend sticking with HOR, or is this ebay one OK? Actually, it seems that the hulls might not be stepped quie as much - maybe it would be a big hurt to performance to go with this unknown one... Thanks! Andrew
Posted on: 5/15/2011 1:48 AM by Author "cowana" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10520684

RE: HOR Racing 32
Just to let people know, the cost of all the items from HOR: $191 without postage $237 with postage I'm very happy with that price - I feel that $237 is pretty good for a complete hull with all drive hardware - only the electronics are required seperatly. If anyone can see any ommisions or incompatible parts on my list, please let me know! Otherwise, I'll put in the order in the morning. Andrew
Posted on: 5/14/2011 3:21 PM by Author "cowana" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10519918

RE: HOR Racing 32
Thanks for that, Diesel6401. I'm thinking about using the Leopard 4074 2000kv motor (probably on four cells) - I've found a pretty cheap seller of them ($85 inc P&P). So I just need to decide what parts to order from HOR, so far I've got: [b]A Hull (32" cat)[/b] http://www.horracing.com/product_info.php?cPath=37_61&products_id=99 [b]A motor mount[/b] http://www.horracing.com/product_info.php?cPath=46_72&products_id=388 [b]A strut/rudder/4mm flex shaft combo[/b] http://www.horracing.com/product_info.php?cPath=49_79_87&products_id=335 [b]5mm motor - 4mm flex shaft coupler[/b] http://www.horracing.com/product_info.php?cPath=44&products_id=149 [b]Pushrod[/b] http://www.horracing.com/product_info.php?cPath=52_89&products_id=200 [b]Pushrod boot[/b] http://www.horracing.com/product_info.php?cPath=52_89&products_id=201 [b]Bronze prop (almost the same as an x447, but cheaper)[/b] http://www.horracing.com/product_info.php?cPath=43&products_id=366 [b]Flush water pickup[/b] http://www.horracing.com/product_info.php?cPath=47&products_id=184 [b]Small water outlet[/b] http://www.horracing.com/product_info.php?cPath=47&products_id=177 [b]Silicone tubing[/b] http://www.horracing.com/product_info.php?cPath=39&products_id=107 [b]Bulkhead nipple[/b] http://www.horracing.com/product_info.php?cPath=47&products_id=183 And from elsewhere: A cooling jacket A 120A ESC (Turnigy) 4mm to 3/16" shaft sleeve A Leopard 4074 2000kv motor Is this list OK? And is the strut/rudder I picked long enough and suitable for a cat? I've already got radio gear and batteries. Thanks again. Andrew
Posted on: 5/14/2011 3:09 PM by Author "cowana" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10519503

RE: HOR Racing 32
Thanks BACKEMF. I think I'll start with HOR's cheap strut and rudder, and move up to OSE's modified one if I find HOR's too much of a pain. 4mm is standard for flex shafts in Europe, so that's not too much of a problem. The 5mm - 4mm coupler I linked to is off collet design, so it would be possible to remove the flex shaft by just loosening that - I guess I'll find out when the stuff arrives. The Leopard 4074 is available as a 2000kv or a 2200kv - which would you recommend? On four cells (14.8v): 2000kv = 29,600rpm 2200kv = 31,680rpm Is the 2200kv going to be going too fast? I'm currently thinking about going with the 2000kv motor. Many thanks again Andrew
Posted on: 5/14/2011 3:06 PM by Author "cowana" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10519894

RE: HOR Racing 32
OK - I've decided that I'm going to buy that 32" cat. I'm going to go with a single prop, to keep costs to a minimum. The only thing I'm unsure about is which strut to get - do I need an especially long strut if it is going in the middle of a cat? Would http://www.horracing.com/product_info.php?cPath=49_79_87&products_id=335 be OK? What sort of size motor would you recommend for this sort of boat? Andrew
Posted on: 5/14/2011 9:04 AM by Author "cowana" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10519310

RE: HOR Racing 32
Hi Diesel6401 I get most of my enjoyment out of building, painting and getting it ready - I'm really not that bothered about getting all out speed. Do you have details of your build anywhere? I would really appriciate knowing what motors, struts, rudders and shafts you went with. I would prefer to make a dual setup over a single one, but I was put off by the additional cost. However, if it's only a bit more, I might still go for it. Looking forward to your reply! Andrew
Posted on: 5/14/2011 1:47 AM by Author "cowana" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10518892

RE: HOR Racing 32
Hi BackEMF - thanks for your reply. I'm only just entering the world of fast electric boats - thanks for clarifying that trim tabs and turn fins aren't needed. Regarding the strut/shaft, am I right in thinking that that strut it too short for a single prob on a cat? Would I be better off with a strut/rudder combination that is specifically deisgned for a cat of this size? Thanks!
Posted on: 5/13/2011 3:17 PM by Author "cowana" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10518154

HOR Racing 32" cat
Hi all I've decided I want to setup a new boat (more or less from scratch). I really like the look of the HOR Racing 32" cat (http://www.horracing.com/product_info.php?cPath=37_61&products_id=99) - does anyone have any experience with this boat? I think I'll go for a single motor/prop setup. I figure I'll need: - A motor - An ESC - Batteries A stringer driver with cable (http://www.horracing.com/product_info.php?cPath=49_55_80&products_id=318) A rudder (http://www.horracing.com/product_info.php?cPath=35&products_id=205) Trim tabs (http://www.horracing.com/product_info.php?products_id=35) Turn fins (http://www.horracing.com/product_info.php?products_id=32) A propeller (any suggestions?) Basically, I'd like everything I need to make a good fast boat, and I'd like to do as much building as possible. Thanks for any input or comments Andrew
Posted on: 5/13/2011 9:56 AM by Author "cowana" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10517683

RE: ProBoat Miss Geico in AMAZING high Speed turns
[quote]ORIGINAL: doby Not to bright running the boat so close to someone in the inflatable boat..Good way to damage the inflatable and possibly hurt someone..... [/quote] See another of their videos - even more dangerous: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nXT_fA72fIY&feature=related RC boats seem very safe until someone gets hurt by one - a model weighing a few punds travelling at 30mph can do a lot of damage to a person or inflatable boat - it's a really bad idea to drive close to anyone in the water.
Posted on: 5/9/2011 1:35 PM by Author "cowana" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10510429

Looking for a new hull
I'm looking for a boat for my next project. I've just finished working on a Kyosho Jetstream GP-10, which I bought off ebay. The boat was made in around 1975. It's fully ABS, and was designed for a .10 nitro engine, gear reduction and a steerable outdrive. There are some good photos of the GP10 [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/market/item.cfm?itemId=742053]here[/link], although that isn't the exact one I bought. I bought this boat off ebay in a bad way. I took out the old engine mount, gear reduction and pulled off all the stickers. I then repaired the hull (I had to cut a section out of the floor to remove the engine), and sanded down the yellowed (previously white) hull, and primed and painted it. I rebuilt the radio tray and all the servo mounts, and built an aluminium motor mount for a 700 sized 13 turn motor (brushed). Water cooling on the can and brushes meant I could just squeeze 14.8v through and the motor didn't burn up, coupled with an 80A watercooled ESC and turnigy 4S lipo. I took it out to a lake to have a test and was delighted - the performance is excellent - plenty of power and it planes nicely. However, I don't think that I'll be able to get much more speed out of it for a couple of reasons: - The hull it very old and plastic, so rather brittle - not ideal for a modern brushless setup. - The steerable outdrive robs a lot of power from the motor. - The steerable outdrive will self destruct with much more power. - The hull isn't designed for much more power - it's already starting to become a little unstable at high speeds. While I could strip out the outdrive and fit a flex or solid shaft, I feel that this hull has reached it's limit, and it's time to move on. As you might have gathered from my post, I get most of my enjoyment from working on the boat, rather than atually using it. Once I have finished a boat, I only use it very rarely - the fun is in fitting everything. Therefore, I'm not looking for an RTR boat - I want a hull to work on. So, I'm looking for a new project! I'm not fully decided on a hull type, although I like the idea of a cat, as I've done a few monos. Probably a boat around 800mm (32 inches). Something that can handle a little chop, so a hydro is out of the question. http://www.horracing.com/product_info.php?cPath=37_61&products_id=99 caught my idea while I was searching around. I'm looking for something that needs all it's hardware fitting, but will then offer good performance. As I'm mainly looking for a fun build project, I'm thinking of a turnigy ESC with a turnigy brushless motor being around $100 together. I also want the limiting factor to be the motor which I can easily upgrade later, rather than the hull. I've noticed several off Hobbyking's boat's reviews say some are unstable/very hard to setup - I'm looking for a hull that can go fast with the right power source/setup. I'd really appricate any comments, suggestions or recommedations. Andrew
Posted on: 5/9/2011 11:53 AM by Author "cowana" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10510237

RE: Vehicle Naming Contest (NEW) Posted May 5
Redcat Lightning Redcat Tornado
Posted on: 5/7/2011 12:40 AM by Author "cowana" in the forum "Redcat Racing Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10506095

RE: Vehicle Naming Contest (NEW) Posted May 5
Redcat Demon Redcat Thunder Redcat Thunderbolt Redcat Landslide Redcat Exceed Redcat Pressure Redcat Charger Redcat No-Limit Redcat Relentless Redcat Sandstorm Redcat Tempest Redcat Riot Redcat Rumble Redcat Rave Redcat Raptor Redcat Extreme
Posted on: 5/6/2011 8:53 AM by Author "cowana" in the forum "Redcat Racing Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10504853

RE: deans connectors on a 1/5th scale?!? lmao.
Just for the record, I'm an electrical engineering student (studying ripple current, transient spikes, power transfer and wiring losses at university). I completly agree with TBJ and Syco - higher resistance connectors in the battery line will cause the ESC to get less voltage (due to the drop over the resistance). This will stress the ESC less. While it is true that higher resistance will slow the charging of the anti ripple capacitors, THIS WILL NOT DAMAGE THE ESC IN ANY WAY. Under rated connectors CANNOT damage an ESC in any way - unless they are on the motor side and short out. Andrew
Posted on: 4/28/2011 3:11 AM by Author "cowana" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10489256

RE: Found an gasoline powered RC car
To be honest, I think you've been taken advantage of for $50 shipped. If you had cleaned some of the mud off it and stuck it on ebay. I think that you'd have been able to get $150 for it shipped. Someone has done really well for $50 shipped - it's worth quite a bit more than that.
Posted on: 4/22/2011 3:37 PM by Author "cowana" in the forum "RC Car General Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10478825