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RE: Need help with prop choice on Hacker A30
Something odd going on here as I wouldn't expect a great difference in motor power consumption between props of such a similar size. If you're getting vibration to such a level with one prop and not the other then I'd say the issue is mechanical rather than the electric setup itself. Fitting the smaller diameter prop is causing the motor to run a bit faster at full throttle and causing vibration by what you describe.... gradually increase the power and RPM and try to determin the cause when the vibration starts.Double check the fit of the prop causing the vibration on the prop driver, are the motor bearings OK and no slack is evident in the armature? if you're using a spinner, is that seated correctly? Is the motor securely fitted to the fuselage - check that the motor mount has not become slightly unglued to the rest of the fuz. Make absolutely sure that the prop is balanced using a balancer. All electric flyers need a watt meter, a tacho and a set of electronic weighing scales (fisherman's type) to understand how their system is performing - guess work or relying on the often dubious claims of suppliers is the main cause of fried ESCs and motors. As for learning, there's hundreds of websites with all the information that you need. This one was at the top of a Google search for Electric flight setup http://www.modelairplanenews.com/blog/2011/05/04/electric-back-to-basics/ Good luck
Posted on: 5/23/2013 2:42 AM by Author "cubaneight"
in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11519980
RE: transmitter reliability concern
Just had a look at your transmitter that is supplied with the model on the Hobbico website, and I'm surprised to see that it has reversing switches on the front panel. Is it possible that you've knocked the aileron reverser switch whilst the tranny was not in use? Make sure that the aileron reverser switch doesn't have a fault by checking that it switches correctly and reliably and is not suffering from an intermittent contact. ( if you can get to the wiring on the back of the switch easily, solder the wires in the appropriate positions to have the ailerons working correctly, thereby removing the need for the suspect reverse switch. As this has happened before, I really think you need to pin down the cause and rectify the fault before trusting the radio again. Have you tried contacting the supplier/manufacturer? I know the trading laws are very different in the US to here in the UK where we appear to have better legal rights when it comes to faulty goods, but it might be worthwhile before anything else at the moment. Kev.
Posted on: 8/31/2012 1:07 AM by Author "cubaneight"
in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11212338
RE: Blitz RC Tornado
Just had a look at the model you've bought on the BH website. This is not a beginners model, even for someone with some experience of flying a fixed pitch heli. Catch 22....if you can't fly it you can't set it up, and if you can't set it up you can't fly it! Don't forget that the model is advertised as 3D out of the box so it'll be set up at the factory with extreme movements and totally unsuitable throttle/pitch curves for learning. Being in the UK I don't know the company BH that you got it from, so can't comment on their service good or bad. If they knew you were a beginner when they sold it to you they should have advised you not to try and fly it without experienced help, if you just decided to buy it and fly it then I'm sorry but the outcome was inevitable. http://www.raptortechnique.com/ is a great website for learning about heli setup, it's worth spending several evenings reading through it. Good luck. C8
Posted on: 8/14/2012 2:04 AM by Author "cubaneight"
in the forum "Electric RC Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11192681
RE: Dynam P-51 Wing wiring ?
I assume that you've bought the model second hand, so you'll need to get into the wing and see exactly what's been done and find out what goes where. Standard retract servos run on 4.8V - 6V, 12V is not a good idea!!! Go to this site http://www.gibbsguides.com/article06-retract-power-supply.htm and follow the advice - you should be OK. C8
Posted on: 8/11/2012 12:22 PM by Author "cubaneight"
in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11189491
RE: down and locked gear failure
If you've returned the gear three times for repair and they still don't work (providing they are being used correctly and within manufacturers specs), then the engineering is probably inadequate and not of merchantable quality for their intended purpose. In the UK, the supplier would have a case to answer with the likelyhood of a full refund of the purchace price. Why should you be forced to look for a fix at your own expense on an item that I'm guessing is not cheap, and deserves to work correctly and reliably in the first place? Good luck. C8
Posted on: 7/27/2012 1:40 AM by Author "cubaneight"
in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11170930
RE: EXTREME FLYERS X 350 COXIAL FROM HOBBY PEOPLE
An interesting posting. In my experience, pilots of full size aeroplanes or helicopters have very little advantage in terms of controlling a model of any type for the first time. Unless your Heli pilot friends have model flying experience, expect your model to be crashed PDQ! I'm not familiar with your particular model, but other than the changes you've made already, I wouldn't be inclined to modify the model further. I did look at the YouTube video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G7pQx9WQnGY) of the model flying in windy conditions, and although it coped with the breeze quite well, all the pilot could do was keep it facing into wind and stop it blowing away as best he could. Any co-ax heli is going to have a limited flight envelope, so aim to move up to a single rotor fixed pitch model (SR 120) and after you've mastered that, think about a collective pitch model (450 size). Don't rush things and only move on when you're really comfortable. A flight sim will be really useful. Best of luck. C8
Posted on: 7/23/2012 12:51 AM by Author "cubaneight"
in the forum "Electric RC Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11165385
RE: Best choice for windy conditions?
I understand your problem as here in the UK we're having yet another summer with consistent windy (and wet!) days. My thoughts are to go with a 4 channel, wood construction model of no more than 60" wingspan & with a tricycle undercarriage. The model will need to be well powered and not too light weight (around 6 -7lbs hence foam will not be a good choice) Unfortunately, trainers by their very nature do not take kindly to flying in high winds as their in-built stability and high drag puts them at the mercy of gusts and turbulence - ground handling with a high wing model in a breeze can be a challenge as well, even for experienced pilots. Training in windy conditions is always going to be a problem, I'm guessing that you'll have somebody to help you with a buddy-box, if not and you'll be trying it alone, then chances of success are minimal. If you are going to be buddied to an instructor, then consider a low wing sports model such as the SIG 4 Star 40 with a good 46 or 53 motor. Although a bit more challenging to fly at first, if correctly setup and trimmed for a beginner by someone experienced, then it'll handle windy conditions much better than a conventional high wing trainer - buddy box only though at first! Hope this helps C8
Posted on: 7/17/2012 6:05 AM by Author "cubaneight"
in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11158454
RE: Batteries
Speaking very generally, increasing the capacity (mA/hr) will give you longer run times at the cost of carrying extra weight. If your system is designed to run at best efficiency and within certain parameters with a 3 cell set up, then just adding another cell is risking damage at high throttle settings because of excessive current and wattage!. There is also the issue of prop tip speed as it's very easy to exceed the prop's safety rating by guess work. See the information on the APC website. Better to experiment with different props (diameter /pitch) to get the best match with three cells (a watt meter & tacho are essential to do this properly. I also use a small electronic spring balance to measure static thrust). The C ratings are a measure of the quality of the battery pack e.g. a 1000mA 20C will be able to supply 1000 mA X 20 = 20A whereas a 1000mA 30C will be able to run at 30A. In reality, most battery manufacturers are very optimistic in their C ratings and also omit to tell you that the maximum theoretical current at any C rating is only available as a short burst when the battery is fully charged. The S figure simply relates to the number of cells connected in series to make up the complete battery pack. Hope this helps. C8
Posted on: 7/14/2012 1:57 AM by Author "cubaneight"
in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11154640
RE: E-flite 80amp esc (v2) limits
Just increasing the battery voltage by trial and error is a recipe for trouble in my opinion. Whilst the model may appear to be performing well, you cannot be at all sure if the installation is running within spec and if things are close to breakdown. You say that the battery and ESC were not even warm after a 15 second run - not a good enough test to be honest, you need a watt meter and tacho to give meaningful results to check against current ratings for ESC and lipo as well as motor KV figures. Selecting an electric installation is an exact science and there are known and proven methods that are applied to any size model to give the best power/performance/duration/safety margins etc. Sorry to be a bit negative, but I've seen too many good models re-kitted by poor choice of set-up. C8
Posted on: 7/11/2012 1:43 PM by Author "cubaneight"
in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11151673
RE: my helicopter scale
Could you show some details of the raised tail drive mechanism for the UH-1 please? Thanks C8
Posted on: 7/7/2012 1:24 PM by Author "cubaneight"
in the forum "Electric RC Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11146718
RE: Helpme! Why do speed cut out
Firstly you need to check that you are running the ESC within its design limits. Use a watt meter to determin peak current and battery voltage when you are running at full power and that there is sufficient cooling. Maximum current should be no greater than 80% of the ESC design max (I like a good safety margin!) and your battery pack should be able to hold its voltage without too much sagging - on a six cell pack a couple of volts down at maximum current is not unusual, but it depends on the age of the pack, quality, and C rating. C8
Posted on: 6/29/2012 1:49 AM by Author "cubaneight"
in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11136127
RE: Perplexing Problem - Help Please
Disconnect the ESC from the Rx and power the RX from a normal receiver battery pack. Do things work correctly now? C8
Posted on: 6/28/2012 2:27 AM by Author "cubaneight"
in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11134831
RE: Receiver antenna orientation
Really can't see it being a problem, carbon fibre wing spars are very common these days and I've never heard of any trouble. Complete carbon fibre fuselages are another matter though and will require external aerial wires. C8
Posted on: 6/15/2012 12:35 PM by Author "cubaneight"
in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11119405
RE: Motor Problems
ESCs need to learn the full and closed position of the throttle signal. This should be explained in the ESC's instructions, if you don't have the instruction sheet try this....... [i]Firstly, secure the model so that it can never pose a danger to you or others if the motor starts unexpectedly & keep your hands clear of the prop at all times.[/i] Turn on the transmitter and set the throttle stick to [i]full throttle[/i] - power up the model and when you hear the first beep from the ESC close the throttle, an OK beep will be heard - advance the throttle & all should be well - if not, reverse throttle on TX and try again. If you find that the prop is running in reverse, simply disconnect and swap any two wires to the motor. You will also have to check other ESC parameters such as timing & cut-off voltage, which may be a problem if you don't have the instructions, although if it's a new and unused ESC it will be set to default values which are usually OK. Hope this helps C8
Posted on: 6/9/2012 12:29 AM by Author "cubaneight"
in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11112035
RE: glow to electric conversion
What's the all up flying weight at the moment and what ground to prop clearance will you have with the tail up? C8
Posted on: 5/22/2012 2:57 AM by Author "cubaneight"
in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11090030
RE: F27Q STRYKER ESC FRIED 10 flights
If you're convinced that you've run the system within the model's stated maximums and specs, and you are within the warranty period, demand that HH replace the failed item. If they decline, ask them on what basis they're refusing to help you, as you've used the equipment exactly as the manufacturer intended but have still experienced a failure. I don't know what reputation HH has in the US, but certainly their UK organisation that I've had a few occasions to contact have always been very good. Again, UK law states clearly that any item of merchandise must be fit for purpose at the time of sale, and if it isn't, then the customer is entitled to a full refund. Surely consumer law in the 'states is similar/the same? C8
Posted on: 5/21/2012 3:53 AM by Author "cubaneight"
in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11088508
RE: denight special
Posted on: 5/17/2012 9:50 AM by Author "cubaneight"
in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11084468
RE: denight special
You need to be able to measure the voltage & current at full throttle (watt meter), the prop RPM at full throttle (tacho) and also the KV rating of the motor being used. If we know these stats we might be able to point you in the right direction. Just had a look at flying weight of the model on the h9 website and they quote 7lbs, so to give you a 1:1 thrust ratio needed for good performance on a 13X6 or 13X8 prop you need to be getting a prop speed of 10,000 RPM as a starting point. Hope this helps. Don't know why they've gone for a 4S set-up, 6S is far more efficient! C8
Posted on: 5/17/2012 9:28 AM by Author "cubaneight"
in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11084441
RE: Suhkoi SU-26 motor cutting out
Probably the ESC protecting itself against overload. Try a smaller diameter/less pitch prop.
Posted on: 5/8/2012 1:53 AM by Author "cubaneight"
in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11072634
RE: Having trouble putting all rc plane components together
I really think that you need to join a local club and benefit from the experience of other flyers. C8
Posted on: 5/6/2012 3:08 AM by Author "cubaneight"
in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11070078
RE: ESC Question
The only sure way to check the ESC is to replace it with a known good one!! C8
Posted on: 5/5/2012 2:06 AM by Author "cubaneight"
in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11069080
RE: Erratic servos on initial power up
There is still a short period of oscillation when you've disconnected the servo. I'd say that your power supply is collapsing under the start up surge current. An easy way to prove it will be to run the system from a good four or preferably five cell Nimh/Nicad Rx battery that will be able to easily provide the required current. C8
Posted on: 5/2/2012 2:10 AM by Author "cubaneight"
in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11065089
RE: Glow to Electric
These are excellent, I have three in use at the moment with no probs. http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__10331__Turnigy_Brushless_ESC_85A_w_5A_SBEC.html C8
Posted on: 5/1/2012 1:42 AM by Author "cubaneight"
in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11063660
RE: changing connectors
Don't forget that when soldering XT60s, make sure they're plugged together as a pair while you do it (not to a battery of course!!) If you do happen to slightly overheat the plastic, the pins will remain in alignment while things cool off again. BTW, many of the Hobby King Lipos have gone over to bullet style connections for the larger sizes.
Posted on: 4/27/2012 6:56 AM by Author "cubaneight"
in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11058876
RE: Need Advice - Epoxy Problem
Looks to me as though you'll need to cut out the offending parts from the wing and start again from scratch as you said. I'm not familiar with the exact model that you're building, but I'd say that epoxy is a very heavy adhesive to use on a foamy. Think about using foam safe cyano or a water based plastic glue instead. Don't worry though....we've all build two left handed fuselages and stuck things on upsidedown, think of it as character forming[:D] Kevin.
Posted on: 4/23/2012 8:05 AM by Author "cubaneight"
in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11053414
RE: motor wont throttle up
It's possible that you need to reverse the throttle channel as Futaba's throttle signal works in reverse to most other makes. You'll also need to teach the ESC the max & min settings of the throttle channel (instructions?) Don't have a prop on the motor until you've sorted out the problem....safety first!! Not sure why you are trying to use throttle hold and idle up with a fixed wing model as you'd be using aero mixing rather than heli. Hope this helps. C8
Posted on: 4/13/2012 12:43 PM by Author "cubaneight"
in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11040495
RE: Hobby King Customer Service ?
Please keep us all posted on how your issue with HK is dealt with either by PayPal or HK itself. Thanks. C8
Posted on: 4/9/2012 7:56 AM by Author "cubaneight"
in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11034355
RE: Sky Surfer
If It's the same battery as shown here http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ppCdLkGR4FM Then just go to HobbyKing! http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__10279__Turnigy_2200mAh_3S_40C_Lipo_Pack.html C8
Posted on: 4/8/2012 2:33 AM by Author "cubaneight"
in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11032684
RE: bind question
Only needs binding once! If you're using Spektrum gear and you forget to take the bind plug out after the binding process, then the next time you power up the RX the bind light will flash. With the bind & fly models, make sure that your TX is switched on before the model, otherwise the bind light will flash in the model. Hope this helps. Kev.
Posted on: 3/30/2012 5:35 PM by Author "cubaneight"
in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11021774
RE: Hobby King Customer Service ?
This is the down-side with hobby king. However, in my case I've saved several hundreds of pounds (dollars!) over UK rip off prices that I'll only buy an item that I can afford to take a loss on if things go pear shaped. So far I've only come unstuck with a few rotten servos, a retract valve that was solid, and a small UBEC that was junk. I did return a set of cheap and very nasty 250 size heli blades to HK and was duly credited with their cost (only did it as an exercise as the price of returning was almost what the blades were worth in the first place). Here in the UK we are very well protected with what's known as the 'Distance Selling Regulations' when trading with domestic companies, but of course, the price is higher costs, taxes etc. What does annoy me a little with HK is their insistance with the buyer returning a defective item for "inspection", (although they do trumpet that they are the only company that don't insist that items have to be returned in full retail packaging....very kind of them methinks!!). Now I can understand that HK needs to protect itself from scammers and rip-off merchants, but surely, customers such as myself and others having done over five hundred dollars worth of business with HK need to be trusted. After all, we've put over $500 worth of faith in HK in the first place. C8
Posted on: 3/29/2012 1:15 AM by Author "cubaneight"
in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11019526
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