RE: Rat Fink II Razor
Gotta install a 57cc twin in front of the gear box and you'll be flying. Really cool Randy. I love it.
Posted on: 9/9/2012 7:39 PM by Author "danielplace" in the forum "Speed - RC Gas Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11223265

RE: Rcexl Opto Gas Engine Kill Switch V2.0+?
[quote]ORIGINAL: rcboatfreak The failsafe is doing its job. It moves the throttle to idle at any loss of signal but I don't run a clutch & with the failsafe on the throttle the boat just keeps going until I get to it or it hits something. The lake where I run the boat is also used by boaters. I need something that will stop the boat in its tracks. Using the back trigger method only works if you have a radio signal. Thanks for your thoughts on the matter but I think I am going to look a little deeping into the kill switch method. [/quote] You have your failsafe setup wrong. The idle screw should not be holding idle and if back trigger is able to close the butterfly and kill the boat so is the failsafe. You just have to lock in the failsafe setting for the throttle channel while you are holding full backtrigger and that is where it will go at loss of signal or any other reason for it to engage. If I shut off my transmitter on any of my boats the engine is going to shut down instantly as the failsafe shuts the butterfly just the same as backtriggering does.
Posted on: 9/6/2012 9:09 PM by Author "danielplace" in the forum "Speed - RC Gas Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11220310

RE: Rcexl Opto Gas Engine Kill Switch V2.0+?
The butterfly might not be closing and/or sealing all the way. When they do close entirely and the brake side EPA is adjust to slam the carb closed when it hits failsafe it should stop the engine and reduce RPM's as fast as ignition kill. But I know what you mean as sometimes you'll have a carb or engine that doesn't immediately stop even when throttle shaft is jammed in the closed direction. Oftentimes it is the butterfly has shifted out of proper alignment with the carbs bore and causes this. Just jamming the butterfly closed on a runninmg engine is never been a good idea as surely the vibrations try and shift the brass throttle butterfly disc under the little center screw and oftentimes can loosen it or allow it to come out. You can leave your idle screw in place and back it out so it is adjusted to make contact with the throttle arm just before the butterfly contacts the bore and it will still shutdown completely but will not mess with ther alignment of the butterfly as it used to get jammed in the bore each time. For regular shutdowns the engine kill switches also prevent this which is a plus in their favour. Always good to keep that backtrigger responce in practice and good and ready as it can cost you a engine if you are not quick enough slamming it shut when you take a dunk.
Posted on: 9/6/2012 11:40 AM by Author "danielplace" in the forum "Speed - RC Gas Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11219372

RE: Rcexl Opto Gas Engine Kill Switch V2.0+?
It should be able to be used on any battery powered electronic ignition system. If your plugs aren't the same then they will have to be change on one or the other to match. Since that engine uses a standard ignition that is not really the kill switch you should buy. I prefer to close the butterfly to shut down a marine engine. It does no good to kill just the ignition if your boat is about to wipe out. You MUST close off the carb so it can not let water into the engine. Most engine kills can cause problems because you are essentially tying your ignition system to very close proximity to circuits that go back to your receiver. Even with shielded and grounded cable and ferrite rings there is potential for problems. Most radio's have built in failsafes that work really well. Of coarse they will not work for every situation. Total loss of power is one. Secure your battery connection and use good battrey packs and that is a non issue. Always spray the switch before and after running with a moisture displacing corrosion inhibitor and it will never be a issue either. Run one unprotected and you are on borrowed time with the switch in marine applications.
Posted on: 9/6/2012 6:36 AM by Author "danielplace" in the forum "Speed - RC Gas Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11218927

RE: Bearings instead of brass tube for flex shaft
The stub shafts on flex cables are not hard enough to run in needle bearings. The needles will wear into the shaft in short order.
Posted on: 9/4/2012 8:14 AM by Author "danielplace" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11216905

RE: LIPO Battery Swelling up
If a Lipo pack is drained below 3 volt per cell it can irreversably damage the pack. How have you been judging when your pack is depleted? Are you timing your runs after you first found out how long they can go from previous runs so you can creep up on a runtime that stops short of drawing them down below 3 volt per cell. Of coarse if any changes are made like prop size or trim adjustment even can change your safe runtime considerably. C rating may not have been high enough for the load you have on the packs.
Posted on: 9/4/2012 8:03 AM by Author "danielplace" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11216894

RE: Proboat Blackjack 55 Catamaran
If it is a stock 644 it may not run at 2 low 1 high. ?? Been a while since I had a 644 on anything but try 1 1/2 Low and 1 1/4 high to start and tune from there.
Posted on: 9/2/2012 4:58 AM by Author "danielplace" in the forum "Speed - RC Gas Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11214240

RE: Building an electric start for Zenoah
If you used a EZ start pawl nut on the flywheel then all you have to do is spin a center dog the pawls fly outward centrifugally when the engine starts and disengages the engine from the starter automatically. I am sure the design would be simpler more compact and sure to work properly everytime. [IMG]http://i50.tinypic.com/254wm5g.jpg[/IMG]
Posted on: 8/30/2012 8:18 PM by Author "danielplace" in the forum "Speed - RC Gas Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11212194

RE: Need help with water pump issue
Like he was asking, do the fittings at the top of your intakes go straight through into the bore of the intake manfold/ isolator block. Did you do the drilling and tapping to the intakes. He was thinking someone could have drilled them (mistakenly because it robs carb pulse) to be used the other way around with the pulse fitting at the bottom sharing with the carb. The top position is correct but all the way into the intakes main bore. With twins it is best to build manifolds to split up the water flow because installing everything in series is too much backpressure and half the stuff is getting useless preheated water. When you split up using manifolds there is less backpressure and everything is getting cool water. It works much better.
Posted on: 8/21/2012 8:46 AM by Author "danielplace" in the forum "Speed - RC Gas Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11200887

RE: rcmk k30
The RCMK K30's are awesome powerplants if properly modded. Have got the mods working extremely well and I do not cut out the closed up transfers. The closed up transfers are where the K30 has advantages over the Zenoah style open transfers. These engines can perform awesome with almost all that piston support in place. These engines look far better after 4-5 gallons than I have ever seen a open transfer engine look. There is no smooth shiny worn areas you usually see. The engines look more akin to a single run that is how good they look in the bore and piston sides. The torque is very good. Where I used to run a 7016 it will pull a 7316 or a 7020 no problem. Even took a prop off a twin mono that runs over 70 and it pulled it no problem. AC S-45, http://youtu.be/AygvH6AEuTw AC RAZOR, http://youtu.be/FSCIOO7w47M AEROMARINE CONQUEST, http://youtu.be/WUToLZyqL3Y
Posted on: 8/6/2012 11:19 PM by Author "danielplace" in the forum "Speed - RC Gas Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11182839

RE: Blackjack 55 how to lock the crank??
The stock Proboat clutch only needs the shoes taken off so you don't damage them and they are only held on by the springs. Once they are off you can easily hold the rectangular hub to loosen and/or remove the center bolt. Then you pull it.
Posted on: 7/16/2012 7:22 PM by Author "danielplace" in the forum "Speed - RC Gas Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11158072

RE: Blackjack 55 how to lock the crank??
You never want to hold the engine if you can help it from the piston. You only hold a crank by the end of the crank you are working on. It is just to easy to trist the crank even more so on a two bearing engine. There is no reason or need to in order to remove the clutch hub. Remove the two screws that hold the shoes on. Now remove the shoes and springs. Now hold the hub and loosen the hub center bolt. Use a puller behind hub with center puller bolt pushing on the loosened center bolt in hub and it will pop right off easily.
Posted on: 7/16/2012 7:28 AM by Author "danielplace" in the forum "Speed - RC Gas Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11157158

RE: What Radio is best??
As others have suggested the Futaba Fasst 3PM-X is what you should save just a few more dollars to get. A good radio will make the whole expirience that much more enjoyable. Watch the forums or place some Want To Buy adds for one and someone might have a decent condition used one they aren't using anymore and be close to $105 possibly.
Posted on: 7/10/2012 5:02 AM by Author "danielplace" in the forum "Speed - RC Gas Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11149728

RE: k30 vs qd 25
Scott, That is true without a doubt but just blowing my horn. These are seasoned racers and since the QD comes dyno tuned with a WYK33 and it's pipe already matched to the engine the QD certainly has the advantage it would seem in this case as my friend hadn't even really fine tuned anything. The K30 was installed and he runs it just like he put it in. With only a modified stock bore 929 for a carb. Most cases I don't honestly think these things are gonna outrun every QD pioneer it runs. That would be dreaming. But it is evidentily capable though of at least giving them a run for their money. No disrespect was meant towards Quickdraw or these new QD Pioneers capabilities either as the few I have seen most were definetely cruising right along. The engines are very nice and well worth the price if that is the kind of engine you are looking for. Just being a match engine/pipe combo puts most well ahead of the game after only just installing it.
Posted on: 7/7/2012 12:36 AM by Author "danielplace" in the forum "Speed - RC Gas Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11146088

RE: k30 vs qd 25
A friend of mine has one of my modded K30's running offshore in district 3 that is regularly outrunning the QD Pioneer's. No joking. Several times now he has called me seriously stoked after just smoking another one in a heat he has just ran. The first time he called he wouldn't say anything except "I am a believer" over and over. Finally I got it out of him. Smoked his first QD Pioneer the first time he raced it. LOL. The last time he said they were running neck in neck to the last turn they came around headed for the finish line and he out drag raced him for the win. Get this, he hasn't even proped up for the 29.5 yet and is running a prop he used on his 26cc. These things will pull a lot of prop and the speeds increase considerably. He was running a 6717. These 29.5's will pull 7316 props adding about 5 more mph if you can keep it on the water.
Posted on: 7/6/2012 7:56 PM by Author "danielplace" in the forum "Speed - RC Gas Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11145996

RE: Shockwave 55 gel coat and repaint??
You don't need the teflon. Use 5/16" brass and it does really need to be changed to surface drive. Those things had some serious bowsteer with that drive under the hull. That is why they all were changed to a surface drive about 5 years ago. Cut that whole mess off the bottom and patch it up with fiberglass. Mount the drive with the centerline 9/16" up from bottom and the stuffing tube right out the transom and knock all the bearings out of the strut and run the tube right through it. Get a welded stub cable and a round collet for the engine and you will have a decent driveline and a drivable boat.
Posted on: 7/5/2012 10:02 PM by Author "danielplace" in the forum "Speed - RC Gas Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11144856

RE: crrc pro gw26i how to get spark?
That clear vinyl line for water lines is a bad choice. You have that one almost on top of the header. One run and the tube will melt itself shut and toast the engine. Get some xtra large silicone nitro fuel tubing.
Posted on: 7/3/2012 4:49 AM by Author "danielplace" in the forum "Speed - RC Gas Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11140999

RE: Zenoah No spark But then come back!
Most importantly buttom the flywheel till it seats fully and it will crush on no further. Most are never properly installed after repairs are made. These things must be tight and fully on the taper. You are spinning the heavy flywheel at high rpm and it will work loose on the taper and the flywheel and dog/pawl nut will be loose. NEVER use a piston stop to hold the engine or especially the collet or clutch shoe holder while doing the flywheel or by flywheel when working on collet and/or clutch parts. It must be held by the end half that you are working on. http://youtu.be/vjZdQqV002c
Posted on: 7/3/2012 4:45 AM by Author "danielplace" in the forum "Speed - RC Gas Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11140570

RE: engine dynos/questions
All those engines weight about the same (+ or - 6 oz.)with the exception of the QD35 and the BZ 28 and of coarse the four bearing engines slightly more than two bearing engines. For a 2" band to tune on a 3" header the water coupler is up to the bend without even the pipe holder. The clutch, long pipe and small diameter extension and muffler after the stinger may not be helping. If you measure that pipe around the centerline to the REAR of the band I am thinking you are longer than it should be. If you were just allowing the header to push up in the pipe without cutting off what went in past the inner o-ring then you wouldn't be able to realize benefit of the shorter pipe.
Posted on: 7/2/2012 3:39 PM by Author "danielplace" in the forum "Speed - RC Gas Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11140364

RE: crrc pro gw26i how to get spark?
Not sure why they installed a male quick connect on the black coil wire. That usually would have a female with plastic cover to protect it from grounding itself. You do have it ungrounded when you check for spark? You might want to put a piece of shrink wrap over that terminal. [IMG]http://i47.tinypic.com/mids1d.jpg[/IMG]
Posted on: 7/2/2012 2:56 PM by Author "danielplace" in the forum "Speed - RC Gas Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11140313

RE: Water pump port?
[quote]ORIGINAL: HendricX I tend to DIS-agree here. All depends on what engine we're talking about. If Zenoah , use the coilmounts on the side , it's M4 thread , drill with 3mm/1/8'' into the casing. And add a M4 nipple. [/quote] Hendrick, Why disagree? Have you tried it? LOL. Drilling out the coil mounts would almost certainly be scrubbing the bolts that holds the cases together. It would need to be a small diameter bit kept to the top to avoid intersecting those threaded holes but that is irrelevent really. The bottom of the threads in that coil mount is even with the center of the case bolts. ????? Pretty tight. Zenoah's technically has the bung on back of cylinder for a pulse port addition but it can't touch the intake manifold bore pulse for a water pump. It don't get much simpler than the intake. No disassembly of the bottom end. This method makes no difference what engine. It works on them all. All piston port engines we use anyhow for sure. Trust me on this one and just try the intake one time. Not only is it simpler but the pump jams out. You'll will find you get excellent results in the bore of the intake. At idle to the mid throttle settings where you need the pump most it provides a great pulse source and the pumps shoot water about 4"-6" out the outlets well off coarse depending on just how much you have it run through. LOL. Plenty of people were skeptical but quickly changed their mind if they actually tried it. I have heard back from dozens of happy users that took my suggestion all reporting back that the pump is working perfectly or better than it ever has. Here is a example with a lot of input and output line lenth and only tygon for the pulse line(it is better with hard heavy wall vinyl tubing), Pulse straight off top of the intake(best because it gets the least fuel in the line), https://vimeo.com/5996816 Saw this when I was looking for the water pump. FUTABA FASST FULLY WATER PROOFED to work UNDER THE WATER 48 hours under water and she passed a range test of about 1/4+ mile while still in the water. 3 years later that receiver is still going strong never even a glitch. You could run it without a box if you wanted. Not me but someone could. LOL. https://vimeo.com/5670298 For a carb pulse that is an entirely different deal. That pulse will need to be plumbed to the crankcase. This is the best place I have found to do this. Straight into the transfer ramp where there is plenty of metal thickness and you can get to it easy. [IMG]http://i49.tinypic.com/2jaxn5e.jpg[/IMG]
Posted on: 6/2/2012 1:30 AM by Author "danielplace" in the forum "Speed - RC Gas Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11103400

RE: Water pump port?
Straight into the bore of the intake. The top is the best. If you go in the bottom offset it enough that you do not intersect with the integral pulse port passage for the carbs integral fuel pump. Use heavy wall hard vinyl tubing to maintain maximum pulse to the pump. Don't worry that this doesn't seem right thinking the intake manifold bore would be steady vaccum only as it is actually the strongest pulse you'll find that affects the engines state of tune the least.
Posted on: 5/31/2012 7:13 PM by Author "danielplace" in the forum "Speed - RC Gas Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11101887

RE: water fittings 90 degree.
[quote]ORIGINAL: Outboard Jay Water fittings: This is not a direct answer to the 90 degree fitting...but I was hunting for a T water fitting for my gasser...went to the local PETCO store (fittings for gold fish water tanks, etc.) and found a brass T with 1/8 ID outlets....great price: $1.79....quite a difference to $'s on the internet prices for boat stuff... Jay [/quote] Jay, The reverse barb on those T's is for very low pressure airline and does not adequately retain higher pressure water line very efficiently. You are inviting a line to blow off those barbs integreating those T's within your cooling system. I would just be very careful using them and tywrap them good. I recon you do that and not put much resistance beyond the T keep it under 50 mph and you will be ok. Myself think it is better to buy the part with the hose barbs designed for the task. The second picture is a custom water splitter manifold with barbs at 1/4" O.D. for best water line retension and balanced output with decreased backpressure and because of the 3/16" I.D. of the inlet and outlets inlet water pressures are decreased. It could be a lot shorter of coarse but it was built special to match the application. Posted mainly to show the hose barb style best suited to gripping the inside of the silicone line we use most. [IMG]http://i47.tinypic.com/f21ydf.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i48.tinypic.com/2yx28ma.jpg[/IMG]
Posted on: 5/14/2012 1:52 PM by Author "danielplace" in the forum "Speed - RC Gas Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11080537

RE: Zenoah Running Hot...
Why would you want or need to idle it so long. 20 minutes? Because it is yours and you wanted too. Good answer. LOL You can't do much tuning safely in a pool and extended idling isn't part of tuning. You need to have the boat in open water where it can move out when you hit the gas where you can get a good transition and top speed. It probably isn't hurting it if it was already well broken in but if it is new and tight the last thing you want is it to run slow and at a steady slow especially. If water is coming out in a stream at idle then it is not overheating. The water coming out should be hot. That is more than enough to keep the engine well below a dangerous temperature. Take the thing to the lake and gas it. Can't see why you would want to stop even with a clutch and waterpump for more than ten seconds. If you aren't wanting the boat to move shut it off and/or bring it in. If it was a V-8 I could see where you would like to just let her chop at a nice low idle. LOL. This one idles nicely. Now to get it in a boat. LOL. http://youtu.be/N8TXMUaC9Os
Posted on: 5/11/2012 9:00 PM by Author "danielplace" in the forum "Speed - RC Gas Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11077645

RE: ZenoaPUM 26cc carb settings needed
What carb is on the engine? 644 or a 257? Your description is sounding like a carbutertion issue most likely as you have suspected. Duriong these times of no start condition are you seeing a wet plug or a dry one. You might try disconnecting the fuel line entirely and manually shooiting 1/4 oz of fuel in the carb and hold the throttle wide open. In sevarl pulls of the rope it shoukd dry out and fire and burn off the fuel you put in it. If it does this fine then we are off to troubleshooting it as either a vaccum leak or carburetion issue. Let us know.
Posted on: 4/27/2012 12:51 PM by Author "danielplace" in the forum "Speed - RC Gas Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11059289

RE: Carb / motor issue w/walbro 257
Sounds like the fuel pump in the carb is not receiving a vacuum pulse. Boats don't need chokes. There is no air filter in the way so you could have used your finger for 1/2 a pull and get your finger wet. Give it some air with the throttle and start it up.
Posted on: 4/25/2012 9:53 PM by Author "danielplace" in the forum "Speed - RC Gas Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11057099

RE: FLYWHEEL Zenoa 26cc engine question
Build a prop dyno and you can adjust the carb and tune the pipe before the engine even goes in the boat. You can tune in 10 minutes what would take 2 hours bringing it in and making adjustments and testing over and over on the water and still miss the sweetest tune. http://youtu.be/qlrbXR8xc_s
Posted on: 4/21/2012 11:20 AM by Author "danielplace" in the forum "Speed - RC Gas Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11051147

RE: RCMK twin = 52cc's of rubbish
All engines need to be thoroughly gone through IMO. Cleaned, inspected carefully and reassembled with plenty of two stroke lube in everything. These are high performance engines and like most there are some things you might need to know and understand and maybe even correct. It is what it is. Check out CMB's disclaimer. Even with obviuos defects it can be difficult to determine whether operator error or defective parts are to blame once it is run. [IMG]http://i44.tinypic.com/dgje52.jpg[/IMG]
Posted on: 3/29/2012 8:36 AM by Author "danielplace" in the forum "Speed - RC Gas Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11019830

RE: RCMK twin = 52cc's of rubbish
Their site only seems to have the long coupled twins. http://www.bonzisports.com/zenoah/inline
Posted on: 3/28/2012 5:20 AM by Author "danielplace" in the forum "Speed - RC Gas Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11018238

RE: RCMK twin = 52cc's of rubbish
9 out of 10 times anyone has issues with getting a new engine to start it is one of two things. No fuel getting in the top end or just the opposite carbs set too rich along with choking too much and they get so much fuel in the cases that clearing the plug doesn't even let it fire because it immediately is wet again once you try to start it. Was likely the case here. There are dozens of threads that are about a new engine that won't start and after 5-6 pages of everyone guessing and pointing out every flaw a engine could have all of a sudden the engine is mysteriously running without issues. There is a particular starting technique and too much or too little fuel will always have you yanking on your rope like a mad man. LOL
Posted on: 3/27/2012 6:21 AM by Author "danielplace" in the forum "Speed - RC Gas Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11016830