midway between micro and 450 size
I have been flying the AXE cp and Blade cppro for a while now. I am just past the good hover stage and practicing the turns. These helis with the ETR drop altitude when turning so the practice gets fouled up. So as I look at a different heli, 450 or so, I wonder if any makes a bigger version of something as straight forward as the AXE.. Simple setup and maintanence, no pitch curve settings and so on. I have considered the Blueray 450 for some time now but don't want to become a slave to the setups and the real techy end of the sport. The BR 450 is the nicest one I have read up on but if I were to loose interest, I don't want it sitting around doing nothing with the money tied up in it. I figured that you might know what it out there.
Posted on: 12/2/2009 4:56 PM by Author "dennisef" in the forum "XHeli.com Support Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9298234

Is there middle ground between micro cp and 450 size
I have been flying the AXE and Blade cppro, I have learned to rebuild them and keep them flying. I want to know if there are any other bigger helis that are as straight forward for setup and maintanence as these micro size helis. These both have the ETR for rudder control and a belt type cp heli would most likely fly better but I don't want to become a slave to the Pitch curve setup and all that jazz. Does someone make a bigger version like the AXE? Bigger but simple to learn on. The 450 size would be about right. There are probably other new pilots out there that would like a bigger heli to learn on without putting out the bucks in case the pilot looses interest and it just sits.
Posted on: 12/2/2009 4:47 PM by Author "dennisef" in the forum "RC Helicopter Beginners Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9298213

RE: What' with the yo-yo on micros?
Not really. I can fly a great steady hover at 3-5 feet, fly forwards and backwards and so on. I do some high stuff and manage to recover and save the bird. Only when I give additional rudder for the turn practice i loose 2 feet or so in altitude. I compensate with the throttle but sometimes actually touch the ground. I just flew the AXE and the bounce left me with a boom strike and a heli on the bench to fix.
Posted on: 12/2/2009 4:37 PM by Author "dennisef" in the forum "RC Helicopter Beginners Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9298193

RE: What do I want???? :)
Hey, before you send any money off to the BH site you should search the forums for the problems with buying from them. Somewhere there is an extensive string about problems with units purchased not working or possibly returned items. I read it the other day and it is in here somewhere.
Posted on: 12/2/2009 4:29 PM by Author "dennisef" in the forum "RC Helicopter Beginners Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9298173

What' with the yo-yo on micros?
I fly a blade cp pro and a AXE cp heli. I can hold the hover pretty steady now and I am trying to get to the quarter turns in either direction. I think I may have figured out what causes the "yo-yo" effect on the helis but would like to hear from others. I can be flying and holding a nice steady hover with a good disk. When I apply rudder to make the quarter turns and normal corrections, the helis will drop to the deck, sometimes bouncing off of the skids. This makes learning the turns and side looking orientation a problem. Both rigs are flying fairly new lipo batteries. I can't really judge the age of the motors. I have had both of them for over two years, mostly hanging over the bench. I surmise that it is the electric tail motor pulling juice off of the battery to move the tail that draws down the headspeed causing the heli to drop. Does this sound logical, is it correct? How would you correct for this other than a belt drive heli? This interfers with the learning curve and making a throttle adjustment when turning the heli is not a good muscle memory practice.
Posted on: 11/30/2009 10:52 PM by Author "dennisef" in the forum "RC Helicopter Beginners Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9293654

RE: main shaft straightening tool
I don't have pictures. You can go to the hf site and search for the arbor press. I will be away for a while before I could do any pictures. The arbor press is used to press bearings in or out of shives etc.. The base section has a wheel with 4 notches cut in to it. Each notch would hold a shive and let the press pass thru on the down stroke. You only press mildly when doing a shaft and keep checking it with the straight edge. I will be using it to straighten aluminum arrows in the spring and I'll figure out how to use it to straighten aluminum tailbooms. Should work the same as it does on shafts. I may have to make a piece that will hold the tailboom in a slot and a longer section to push down with on the end of the press plunger. The longer slot and pusher section will do milder bends to straighten the aluminum without stressing it more. I'm talking about moderate bends in aluminum not severe ones that will break if overstressed back. How does the 2x4 and power drill method work? Do you turn the shaft with the drill while pressing down with the 2x4?
Posted on: 11/6/2009 2:44 PM by Author "dennisef" in the forum "RC Helicopter Beginners Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9233114

main shaft straightening tool
I have done some comments in a post about straightening out main shafts for re-use. I got some interesting replies that go from "only use new," and "roll it across the glass, if it is straight, use it". I realize that for some expensive machines this is not an option. So if you are a tinkerer, you might be interested in this. I am fllying the AXE cp, a Blade and a Blade pro. These are inexpensive helis that have already been rebuilt a couple of times during training. Two of those are flying a nice disk with straightened main shafts. I have tried a couple of ideas at home and have found a tool that looks like it will work. I went to hfreight today and looked at the vises thinking to modify one in to a press for straightening shafts and so on. They have another type of press there that looked like it would work for what I want to do. My home built tools leave a great deal to be desired. I bought an arbor press for $33. There are two sizes, the small 1/2 ton will work right out of the box for the stand alone shafts that have detachable main gears. You can use the presses different openings to suit the bend in the shaft. ( You should get one before the Chinese find out we have all of their stuff here and want it back.) The cheaper shafts with the main gear pressed (poorly) on to the shaft required a little extra work. For the Blade helis, I built up a steel block with a groove in some 1/4"elevated pads on one side to let the press go past center on the downstroke. If you press to a flat surface, the material doesn't bend to remove the wow in the shaft. I managed to do 5 Blade main gear shafts and one for the AXE. All of them have been used at least twice before. That's roughly $42 in new parts. If I get another build out of each one, the arbor press is paid for. I check them against a machined straight edge and rolling on the laminate top of the work bench as I straighten them. Now we have to find a way to fix burred teeth on the gears.
Posted on: 11/5/2009 8:56 PM by Author "dennisef" in the forum "RC Helicopter Beginners Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9231413

RE: Hi
I have also posted questions on the bent shaft problem on the Blade copters. (Blade and Pro) I have been able to straighten them on a cast iron saw table by gently tapping them with a hammer. I backlight the sawtable so the imperfections will show while rolling the shaft along the edge. The blade helis have the main gear swaged on to the shaft so the glass rolling doesn't work to well. I also check them by using a tool shaped like a screw driver that has a hollow shaft. It is the same diameter as those shafts. If I put the shaft in the tool and it spins freely, it is straight. When it does not spin freely it needs work. I have attempted to use a press like I use to straighten the shaft on the AXE but that does not work as well on the Blade shafts. On either one, you need to make sure to deburr around the holes in the shaft. Would it work to take a small block of mild steel and drill hole in the solid block and push and almost bent shaft in to it? Would it straighten or just bind up? How about having a small steel block say 2x6x3/4 to sandwich the shaft between the block and the cast iron table? Roll the block over the shaft on the table, back and forth. Would that straighten the shaft?
Posted on: 11/3/2009 9:55 PM by Author "dennisef" in the forum "RC Helicopter Beginners Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9226494

flying better with tail twitches
I am flying better now with my AXE and the Blade Pro. The pro actually flies smoother than the AXE. Both machines have a good disc but both have developed "twitchy" tail. The pro started it today, the Axe had some adjustment done on the ETR at the LHS but still has a noticeable twitch and some more exagerated wag. What would I check? The ETR on the Axe is brand new, the pro just started today. And has anyone got an idea for straightening the Blade main shafts? I had a couple of events that would have let the heli get away 3 or 4 days ago. By flying the disk and thinking through the tips and hints I have read about, I made a couple of saves and was able to fly the helis back down to eye level and a save. I ran about 6 batteries today and I remember a forum member writing a response that spoke about not running the lipo batteries to long. How do you set that time. I am running 11.1v/1000mah on the pro and 11.1v/860mah on the Axe. I fly until the battery acts weak. I don't want to ruin them already. Side note; I bought the G.T. Power P4 lipo charger from www.RCHotdeals.com and I really like it. I am concerned that the e-flite lipo charger could die and there is no readout on the unit to indicate battery condition. this little charger is only $40 and only does one battery, but does the 4 most popular sizes. Not much to program but the constant readout is a real plus. It constantly reads the charge status of the each cell while charging. This charger charges in parallel rather than series and claims to lessen the chance of fire or expolsion. (I charge in a stainless container anyway)
Posted on: 11/3/2009 9:36 PM by Author "dennisef" in the forum "RC Helicopter Beginners Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9226428

RE: Got the hover, but heli gets away
Thanks for the input. I was able to fly a full battery to nothing today in hover, forward, backward and a little side action on the older Blade Pro. I am able to hold the cp in a steady hover quite comfortably now. It is as noted; practice on the heli is the key and work on the sim. I did move my flight zone to the open parcel of the property. I am flying the black 11.1v black lipo batteries from rchotdeals.com. They work well and seem to run a long time. The LHS guy is going to work with me on the AXE that pulses the ETR. The machine doesn't actually pulse back and forth but you can hear it and see a little bit. During flight the AXE actually is pretty steady. I will take the heli over and let the guy work on it. He is going to help adjust the gain. A mildly experienced pilot can hover both of the machines now that I can get the setup right for flight. I have done test flights on both helis without the training gear and am learning to fly without it now. I notice a lot less vibration when the training gear is left off. I actually, in both cases, flew after a rebuild without realizing that the gear was left off. It will go back on the Blade Pro. I have eliminated the balls on the sticks. I use cf rods from a kite shop with a small chunk of fuel tube on the end of each stick. Less vibration and easier lift off. I will do the rebuild and setup on the regular Blade on Monday and get it back in the air. I spent some time tonight to make a press for straightening those Blade main shafts. With a little effort I can get those almost straight again.
Posted on: 11/1/2009 10:16 PM by Author "dennisef" in the forum "RC Helicopter Beginners Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9221441

New guy question on the Blueray 450
When I visited the local flying field a local heli guy told me about the review of the Blueray 450 PE by Exceed available at xheli. I am considering a step up to a bigger heli for all the reasons mentioned in an earlier post. The heli uses trex 450 parts and the price is right. This heli is complete with the 2.4 radio for just over $300. Locally, the best deal on the Blade 400 is $420-$445. Anyone got an opinion on this unit that you would like to share? the LHS guys commented on the Exceed parts, China and so on, but the price to get in to a 450 size is very appealing. One bummer is that the set up doesn't come with a manual. It assumes you already know something. there are manuals on line. My friend started by building the Trex 450 but the cost of parts put him out of business. What is a good affordable kit to build? I think that is the best way to learn.
Posted on: 11/1/2009 12:03 AM by Author "dennisef" in the forum "RC Helicopter Beginners Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9219028

RE: New guy, with a few questions
I also have an AXE cp, the earlier one. I let it hang over the bench for some time and now can hold the hover and so some moving around. When it gets away it usually is a wreck. I have heard a number of folks say that the AXE is a hard heli to fly but if you can fly it, the next one will be easier. I bought it because of cost and the airframe appears to be much sturdier than the 2 Blade helis I have. Forum guys, if you knew then what you know now would you have started with the Blades and Axes for the first cp helis or would you jump right in to the 450 size and face the higher cost of repairs?
Posted on: 10/31/2009 11:54 PM by Author "dennisef" in the forum "RC Helicopter Beginners Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9219009

Got the hover, but heli gets away
I gave up and let the helis hang in the garage for 2 summers. I have a Blade, Blade Pro and an AXE cp. I also have a fp Hornet that I built in '03 or so that I never really got the hang of. This fall, I made it my job to get back on track and fly one of these things. I watched a video on youtube and something the guy said stuck with me. I can now hover all 3 for most of a battery. Most of the earlier problems manefested from the lack of really catching on about the swashplate and set up. My Blade Pro has the best hover of the three (until Friday). The last time I wrecked the plain Blade, it was on it's best flight ever (hit the AC unit). When I hover, probably to low, I can hold steady, go side to side, back and forth and set it down. Most of the time, the bird gets away and I have a terrible time trying to save the flights. When I get elevation, probably the stranglehold on the throttle stick, we are headed for the trees, fence or house and I have a 2 acre lot. Each wreck is almost a total rebuild. I struggle trying to get the orientation back to save the heli. I just can't seem to get it after they climb to altitude. It has been suggested to throw the idle up switch to have more control getting the helis back down where I can control them. Good or bad idea? My current problem is with the AXE. I replaced the ETR after a tail stabber that broke the contacts off of the motor. I still had it working but the heli ETR pulses or gliches during flight so I replaced the ETR. My disk is good and the ETR works with input but it pulses during the flight. I have read that the tail wag might be to high on the gain. It doesn't smooth out during the flights. Any input would be appreciated. I want to move up to a 450 size because I was told that "bigger flys better". With so many wrecks, that may not be wise at this time. I have sim but I seem to be able to fly the AXE better in real life.
Posted on: 10/31/2009 11:43 PM by Author "dennisef" in the forum "RC Helicopter Beginners Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9218994

flying on the bench (whoops) added note
I am so used to my setup that I forgot to note that the styrene base acrews into the top of the lazy suzan that is screwed to the bench. When the heli is attached to the styrene base as noted in the main instructions, it's this combination that lets the heli spin in place. The heli does not lift off of the base if you have attached the heavy rubber bands over the skids.
Posted on: 9/1/2009 6:35 PM by Author "dennisef" in the forum "RC Helicopter Beginners Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9062536

flying on the bench
Hello, I am new to the forum and have a couple of posts on the Heli-max site for a problem and now I may have it fixed. My first heli was a Hummingbird about 5 years ago. I got one with a bad board and really didn't know what I was doing. I returned the unit after it jumped up on the work bench and banged around and didn't seem to have any controls when trying to fly. I returned it and built a Hornet MS FP kit that has never really flown. Understanding what you are getting when you start is a key feature for this hobby. What I did was to build a bench top setup that lets me spin up the Blades and AXE electic helis on the bench. I can check tracking, adjust and work on the tail rotor, work at eye level. run the blades, watch the disk for left/right trim, check the gyro fucnction and spin up to full throttle and so on. This works great for me but you must work safely and use common sense when using the platform. I had a hobby wood slab that was originally a square kitchen breadboard. I kept a small (child size) plastic stool from a drum set. The seat is 8" in diameter about 12" tall. I bought a plastic lazy suzan (51/2"x51/2" base) at a plastics supply house and a square piece of styrene plastic out of the junk bin. I have screwed the legs of the stool to the bread board and the lazy suzan bottom is attached to the seat. The heavier (5/16") styrene was cut to length and width (31/2"x5") according to what heli I was doing at that time. It should be of adequate length for your skids to sit on solidly and just a little wider side to side. On the sides, about 1/4" in from the edge that parralells the skids, I used a Dremel to cut a horseshoe shaped notch at the front and rear on both sides. These slots are where the rubber bands attach when setting up a heli. I put some sticky foam tape pads on the styrene surface to allow the heli to sit there with the training gear installed. I purchased some heavy duty rubber bands (7"x1/4") at Office Max. the big red ones. You set the heli up on the styrene top plate and loop the rubber band over the skids from side to side. One is OK for repairs, at least two if you are going to spin up the unit. Also check clearances all around the unit by rotating your heli by hand and allow clearances for the tail motor also. This is a handy set up and I am surprised that shops don't have something similar for testing customers smaller helis. I wouldn't do this with any gassers or helis much bigger than the Blade or AXE for size and power.
Posted on: 9/1/2009 6:30 PM by Author "dennisef" in the forum "RC Helicopter Beginners Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9062530

3n1 not shot on AXE CP
I went to the LHS with my problem from the earlier post. The experienced guy recognized that the tail motor was affecting the overall throttle pull. He made some adjustments and got the AXE to throttle up. I replaced the removed parts and tried to practice some hovering but the batteries were gone from all of the figiting around earlier. Got a good disk and minimal vibration. I am working with a guy on line with a V1 AXE, to sell complete for backup parts. We are at $60 with transmitter and chgrs, sound about right?
Posted on: 9/1/2009 6:03 PM by Author "dennisef" in the forum "Helimax"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9062482

AXE CP possible 3n1 shot?
Brand new to forum while looking up answers on a problem with the AXE cp most likely the version 1. I could use some input as I muddle my way throught this problem. I know your forum has gone over this and the question sounds redundant, but if you don't do this stuff everyday, it can be a mystery. I bought this Axe about 3 years ago and along with 2 Blades and a Hornet fp (I built) it has hung over the bench since a small wreck summer before last. I decided to get everthing put together and try again to fly and use my toys. I am struggling to remember what little I had learned prior to parking the heli. I am not yet really a pilot. I mostly scoot and when I get air, it usually means a trip to the bench and more parts. I reserected the Axe and went to the LHS to have it looked over. At the LHS, the guy flew it for a minute and we had a small wreck in the shop. My plastic blades were tossing alot of vibration. I went back to wood symmetrical blades and now have a good disk. I came home and charged up the batts and did preflight. I got to the sorta' hover a couple of times but the heli started shutting down. Anyways when practicing, the heli shuts off right after 1/2 throttle. Just fades out and stops. It is also glichey when I start to throttle up and the tail motor is glichey. I have unbundled the wires and done some basic checking, including unhooking the throttle servo to look for any changes but nothing. I think the 3 in 1 may have gone south based on what I read in your postings earlier. The local LHS and tech support couldn't give me any ideas. My next thing will be a trip to another LHS and maybe swap out the reciever to test this. Would a reciever swap help? Seems not if it is the 3n1 board. Seems like you would have to test with a different 3n1, not the receiver as suggested by tech support. I can't believe that tech support didn't have a clue about the 3n1 failures. this forum knows more about the heli than their guy. Incidentally I heard and felt a clunk in the tx unit. My tx's are stored on a shelf and never has been dropped. Anyways, I got the courage to open it up and found that the plastic stud that supports the throttle gimble was broken off and the thunk was that spring steel tension bar for the throttle hitting the side of the tx case. I did a repair and went to one LHS and tested that using a different Axe tx. The throttle problem did not change with the other tx.
Posted on: 8/31/2009 7:36 PM by Author "dennisef" in the forum "Helimax"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9059893