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RE: Which ESCs keep brake on indefinitely ?
Yes but that insen't the actual mechanism used in operation, is it? I thought the back EMF from the spinning prop was used to supply the breaking effort.
Posted on: 8/15/2012 7:05 PM by Author "denoferth"
in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11195152
RE: Which ESCs keep brake on indefinitely ?
I suspect continuous hard breaking would be a consistent high drain on your battery. Anybody know how much current it draws when it’s on?
Posted on: 8/15/2012 6:24 PM by Author "denoferth"
in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11195085
RE: Vintage Control Line Plane & Engine
Hate to argue, John, but this particular model was built with mono Line control as da Rock and I pointed out. The worm drive for the mono line bell crank and the cut-out in the wing to attach the line are clearly visible in the photos. We used a flattened loop in the mono line threaded through the wing and slipped over the bobbin visible in the cut-out. The weight of the plane kept it attached but still easily removable. Unlike the braded cables used for control line, mono line was single strand stainless steel. I still use what’s left of my last .070 dia. Roll for control runs through plastic tubing for smaller models.
Posted on: 8/12/2012 10:42 PM by Author "denoferth"
in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11191200
RE: Vintage Control Line Plane & Engine
What you have a McCoy 60 powered Mono-Line speed plane with what is probably a magnesium belly pan. Control line uses a two-line push-pull arrangement hooked to a U shaped handle you tip foreword and back for control. Mono-Line uses one solid stainless wire, (I used .070 back in the day), to rotate that worm screw and bell crank arrangement connected to the elevator push rod. You held a fishing rod like handle, similar to a casting rod, with a similar trigger shaped finger rest to keep it from being pulled from your hand and to prevent it from rotating. With your other hand you moved a barrel shaped knob back and forth on a spiral rod attached to the line which caused it to turn just like a push drill. The logic was one line had less drag than control lines two so faster speeds were possible. Google mono line control for more.
Posted on: 8/12/2012 10:28 AM by Author "denoferth"
in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11190468
RE: Moki or RCS radial
I'd like to know the answer to that as well. I thought MVVS in Hungary manufactured the RCS 215 and it was distributed by Moki in Germany. My early MVVS marked 215 looks identical to either except for the name plate. Please correct me if I’m wrong.
Posted on: 7/14/2012 3:40 PM by Author "denoferth"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11155319
RE: TOP FLITE GS ARF's & RTC's
Maybe that's in response to those modelers who feel so “offended" by Nazi marked aircraft that they complain to the manufacture. Maybe a few positive comments to those manufactures would offset the negativity of the "offended" ones. It might be worth a try, I’d guess. Anyway, It seems like a year or so since that can of worms was opened so maybe it’s time to stir that idiotic pot again.
Posted on: 7/12/2012 12:55 PM by Author "denoferth"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11152874
RE: Wing Bolts?
Logic tells me that if the frangible bolts survived than they were too strong for the purpose. I also have had that happen so for the smaller birds I have switched to magnets, although I have to admit that does make me a bit nervous.
Posted on: 4/9/2012 8:18 PM by Author "denoferth"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11035410
RE: Wing Bolts?
Long time ago when the earth was still green we used to simmer all our nylon props in water with a little Rit dye mixed in to restore the water content and match the airframe. Seems dried out nylon gets brittle. Just sayen'
Posted on: 4/9/2012 7:21 PM by Author "denoferth"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11035334
RE: designing to build 7m thermal soarer
No problem. Cover your wing with light weight Mylar first and then the silk. That makes it much more puncture resistant and has a side benefit of helping to control warps and keeping the wing lighter because fewer coats of dope will be required to fill the weave. The UV degrading of the silk can be prevented by spraying it with silver although that does limit the light shining through the covering.
Posted on: 3/15/2012 7:36 AM by Author "denoferth"
in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11000959
RE: 80
Looks like a real labor of love. It doesn’t look like a Sterling kit to me with those built-up ribs, unless the builder highly modified it. The spring on the wheel axel looks like an old attempt at a wheel brake. One leg of the spring was fixed to the strut and when the other was pulled, it needs a loop at the end, it tightened around the axel. I still have a set from a 1950’s wreck. It worked better than nothing on the tricycle mains but I wouldn’t have the nerve to try it on a tail dragger.
Posted on: 2/26/2012 8:09 AM by Author "denoferth"
in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10976514
RE: Anybody know anything about this p-38?
Thanks Chad. I didn't know she was now flying as 23 Skidoo. I suspect I took those photos of 44-23314 around 1974-75 at the Movie Land of the Air museum located, I think, in Ontario, Ca?
Posted on: 1/26/2012 9:36 AM by Author "denoferth"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10928837
RE: Anybody know anything about this p-38?
Here's two photos of a J model in the back lot of what was then Movie Land of the Air in Oxnard, Ca I think. It was supposed to be in original paint.
Posted on: 1/25/2012 11:27 PM by Author "denoferth"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10928278
RE: WWI and WWII aces
Let’s not forget Sabur� Sakai who also never lost a wingman.
Posted on: 1/12/2012 3:33 PM by Author "denoferth"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10905667
RE: Easy tiger Giant Spitfire
That's the one! Anyone know how they run?
Posted on: 1/9/2012 3:36 PM by Author "denoferth"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10900525
RE: Easy tiger Giant Spitfire
Wasn’t there a Canadian company selling a large Spitfire kit powered by their own belt drive gas engine?
Posted on: 1/9/2012 2:44 PM by Author "denoferth"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10900416
RE: choices
PAW would and is my choice. I have around six new and used sizes. Their factory service is responsive and fast. Last year I bought a used PAW that had the four cylinder head screws over torqued. It felt good so I didn’t pull it apart like I usually do before running. It ran a few times before the head popped off. A quick email to PAW had the screws and gaskets to me in double quick time. Great service for their fine line of motors. MVVS also makes a fine, easy handling, engine as well.
Posted on: 1/7/2012 6:10 AM by Author "denoferth"
in the forum "Everything Diesel"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10896069
RE: Spitfire Brotherhood (All Spitfires Welcome)
Great! Sign me up. Dennis
Posted on: 12/28/2011 7:48 PM by Author "denoferth"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10880556
RE: Merry Christmas
Merry Christmas to all and a Happy and prosperous New Year to you and yours. I live the smell of either in the morning. I reminds me of……Diesels! Dennis K
Posted on: 12/25/2011 9:36 AM by Author "denoferth"
in the forum "Everything Diesel"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10875600
RE: FOKKER D7
How about Herman Goring's mount?
Posted on: 12/12/2011 11:54 AM by Author "denoferth"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10855961
RE: No Improver
Funny you should mention WD40 123Cat. I’ve had more than one engine start for a few seconds while turning it over to spread the WD40 throughout the insides. Great fun while holding them in your hand in the kitchen in front of the Missis.
Posted on: 12/8/2011 7:37 AM by Author "denoferth"
in the forum "Everything Diesel"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10849610
RE: New giant scale rudder servo
I would encourage you to continue with your project. Ganging servos in series to get enough power is really a lash up anyway you look at it. If you can keep the cost down the market will decide if it has merit. Dennis
Posted on: 11/27/2011 9:50 AM by Author "denoferth"
in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10831238
RE: du-bro 6
I would suggest you pump them up and dunk them into a bucket of water. The fine stream of bubbles will tell you where the leak is. If it's the loose filler fitting unscrew it and coat the threads lightly with plumbing anti-seize compound. If the leak is around the bead, mark the spot with a pen, deflate completely and try to clean the joint with something that won’t nick either the rim or the tire, (That’s if you can't separate them). A piece of plastic works well. If the leak is from a cracked sidewall or tread you can sometimes force rubber cement into the crack but it might be less trouble to simply replace them.
Posted on: 11/11/2011 12:36 PM by Author "denoferth"
in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - General"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10807420
RE: 150
Impressive spiral stability! You must be using a bit of washout or a very good section. Is the foil consistent from root to tip or does it transition to a higher percentage toward the tip?
Posted on: 11/5/2011 9:54 PM by Author "denoferth"
in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - General"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10798793
RE: P-51 MUSTANG SCALE 1/4.5
Looks like the mold for the canopy frame.
Posted on: 10/11/2011 10:31 AM by Author "denoferth"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10759878
RE: Some in FAA will probably use this....
Just because you're paranoid doesn’t mean they’re not out to get you. Paranoia and luck just might keep you alive in some circumstances.
Posted on: 9/29/2011 1:08 PM by Author "denoferth"
in the forum "AMA Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10740707
RE: Some in FAA will probably use this....
Tell me Silent-AV8R, have you actually read the FBI brief or are you going by the attorney general's asinine statement? Profiling may not be politically correct but as repugnant as you may find it, the vast majority of jihadists WILL resemble him.
Posted on: 9/29/2011 7:22 AM by Author "denoferth"
in the forum "AMA Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10740172
RE: Some in FAA will probably use this....
The most amazing thing is the like clockwork occurrence of plots, attempts, shootings or attacks that pop up like magic whenever some law or regulation is proposed, be it gun control or model airplane control. Not that I’m paranoid or anything.
Posted on: 9/28/2011 6:40 PM by Author "denoferth"
in the forum "AMA Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10739401
RE: Aeroworks 35% Extra-Close call
I cut the axle to a few thousands longer than the wheel bearing area plus a washer on the back side and solder on the appropriate diameter tubing over it. Drill out the hub and a washer to fit over the tubing, mark well and drill a small hole for a cotter key. Use a commercially available one or simply bend one over a pin in the size you need. Also looks better and if your wheel is recessed and fits better under a hub cap. My 2¢.
Posted on: 9/26/2011 6:51 AM by Author "denoferth"
in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10734543
RE: Byron Hellcat Fuse Sawn in Half
Why shred all that glass with a thick general purpose blade? Use a thin kurf one like a plywood blade. I use a razor saw for most models with single ply thin glass and a dremel cut-off wheel in the thick places. It destroys the razor saw blade but that hardly matters compared to the cost of the model. Just space the ribbon of glass to make up the kurf so you get the same scale length. The resulting joint will be stiffer than the rest of the shell so you don't lose any strength but do pick up a bit of weight so go easy on the epoxy. Dennis K
Posted on: 9/11/2011 6:26 AM by Author "denoferth"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10711206
RE: Byron Hellcat Fuse Sawn in Half
The same way you would patch a Corvette or any other thin glass surface, by wetting out a ribbon of glass cloth and then gluing it all around the interior edge of one end. That gives you an edge to glue the other end to. When that kicks off you place the other end in place and glue it as well. Same as assembling a plastic model. On the Vet I would have let the first strip harden and then place the patch in place with sheet metal screws before gluing and filling. Another more elaborate way would be to glue alternating tabs of glass cloth on the inside edge of both pieces and then, after they kicked off, glue them together. Either way will align the edges so you have to use minimal filler. Dennis K
Posted on: 9/11/2011 5:21 AM by Author "denoferth"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10711151
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