RE: new to engine teardown.
I think the mach is worth a rebuild. Its a great motor. It has a ton of power, its easy to tune, its cheap to put a new piston and sleeve in. Is it a top shelf motor? No of course its not, but it is very hard to beat for the money. No it won't compare to a good quality .28, but neither will any .30, .32, .36, or .40 that is on the market. It gets way better fuel economy than a .28 will. You can go and buy a new motor, but it will get old too, then what are you gonna do when that needs rebuilt? Buy another motor? Thats ludicrous. Point being, if you are willing to buy a motor, whether its stock or not. If its a good motor then its worthy of a rebuild.
Posted on: 10/23/2009 8:41 PM by Author "dgz69er" in the forum "Losi Monster Trucks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9197120

RE: new to engine teardown.
[quote]ORIGINAL: Sugafree Mach''s are Not worth Rebuilding IMO......Can Find them On Ebay for a C Note (most days) and they're not much more than that New Anyways...... [/quote] do you have any links for that. I want another Mach and I haven't found a single one on eBay.
Posted on: 10/20/2009 10:00 AM by Author "dgz69er" in the forum "Losi Monster Trucks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9187805

RE: new to engine teardown.
[quote]ORIGINAL: iceracer65 [quote]ORIGINAL: dgz69er also if the motor only has a gallon throught, there is a chance you won't need the zip tie, sometimes they will pop right out. As for all the other stuff the hobby shop sold you, they took you. I've never used after run oil, and I don't know anybody who does. There are plenty of sponsored racers here in colorado. Just make sure
Posted on: 10/19/2009 7:58 PM by Author "dgz69er" in the forum "Losi Monster Trucks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9186357

RE: new to engine teardown.
[quote]ORIGINAL: iexion [quote]ORIGINAL: dgz69er [quote]ORIGINAL: iexion [quote]ORIGINAL: iceracer65 i will be rebuilding mine soon too... will this work in it? http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=LOSR1063 'be sweet if it did ;) [/quote] Won't work. Both engines are designed differently, Different timing etc... [/quote] No there not. I have used them before. [/quote
Posted on: 10/19/2009 7:48 PM by Author "dgz69er" in the forum "Losi Monster Trucks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9186337

RE: new to engine teardown.
[quote]ORIGINAL: iexion [quote]ORIGINAL: iceracer65 i will be rebuilding mine soon too... will this work in it? http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=LOSR1063 'be sweet if it did ;) [/quote] Won't work. Both engines are designed differently, Different timing etc... [/quote] No there not. I have used them before.
Posted on: 10/18/2009 10:57 PM by Author "dgz69er" in the forum "Losi Monster Trucks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9184109

RE: new to engine teardown.
also if the motor only has a gallon throught, there is a chance you won't need the zip tie, sometimes they will pop right out. As for all the other stuff the hobby shop sold you, they took you. I've never used after run oil, and I don't know anybody who does. There are plenty of sponsored racers here in colorado. Just make sure you burn all the fuel out of your engine after you run. Start it a few times, you will know when its empty. After run oil from a hobby shop is a joke. It is transmission fluid. If your gonna use it, then go by some tranny fluid. Much cheaper. Another thing on the engine. Set your oven to 350, let it warm up, and put your crank case in there for 10-15 minutes. Use pot holders when you take it out. That should make the sleeve come out easier, or use a hair dryer. The sleeve lets go much easier when the crank case has been heated up.
Posted on: 10/18/2009 10:56 PM by Author "dgz69er" in the forum "Losi Monster Trucks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9184105

RE: new to engine teardown.
[quote]ORIGINAL: full maxx not sure as that is for a 427 and the shock is a 26 but someone that knows for sure will key in shortly [/quote] They are the exact same size, the only diffecence is the sleeve, it is more aggressively ported. I have rebuilt m26ss's in the past with a 427 sleeve.
Posted on: 10/18/2009 10:51 PM by Author "dgz69er" in the forum "Losi Monster Trucks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9184086

RE: Spur gear being shreaded
[quote]ORIGINAL: rcnitrohead ^ I disagree, my old Savage 25 has a stock drivetrain and had the X alum diff cups put in a while ago. Needless to say I've been running an STS .30 for 8.5 gallons and just blew both diffs in the last half gallon. Now I bolted on an LRP .30 and its been ripping it up, and that engine has crazy torque. The outdrives and stub axles finally started to get rounded at the 10 gallon mark, not too shabby for a truck that has that much fuel through it and gets beat on so often. [8D] [/quote] Unfortunately I didn't have a positive experience. I put a a m26ss motor in my savage 25, and for what ever reason it tore through diffs everytime I ran it. It didn't matter how I shimmed the spider gears they would just seem to always go on me. I got tired of spending the time taking it apart and putting it back together.
Posted on: 8/17/2009 6:57 AM by Author "dgz69er" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9022234

RE: SPIN START ADAPTER IN PIECES. HELP!!
I think this is what your looking for. http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=LOSB5111 if not hopefully this page will help you http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/RelatedParts.aspx?ProdID=LOSR1002&Category=Parts%20Listing#prodDetailTabs
Posted on: 8/16/2009 10:45 PM by Author "dgz69er" in the forum "Losi Monster Trucks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9021633

RE: SPIN START ADAPTER IN PIECES. HELP!!
are you talking about the nut or the backplate
Posted on: 8/16/2009 10:42 PM by Author "dgz69er" in the forum "Losi Monster Trucks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9021626

RE: Spur gear being shreaded
I also agree with budbud, and rcnitrohead. Had the same problem with my savage 25. The plate the motor mount goes on had missing screws and caused me to eat up spurgears left and right, including a robinson racing one. You might not notice it right away. I had put in a new bigger motor, and the torque of the motor quite literally would lift the plate, moving the motor closer to the spur gear. For whatever reason savage 25's don't seem to do very well with any engine larger or torqueir*sp* than the stock one.
Posted on: 8/16/2009 10:40 PM by Author "dgz69er" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9021615

RE: To Seal or Not to Seal that is Question??
I am not familiar with the supertiger motor, or squirrels method on youtube. I do know that some motors are finicky. Not sure what displacement on your motor is, but there are many items to take into consideration. The size of the motor does affect how you tune your motor. For example, big blocks are much easier to tune than small blocks. .12 sized motors are harder to tune, in my opinion. You have to make much smaller adjustments with them. Larger adjustments, can drastically change the motor tune. I.E. on a big block if your temp is at 200, and you want to get it to 250. Its not unreasonable to give a good 1/4 turn to start off with to get the temp up. On a small bock, that could easily put you over 300. This is all hypothetical, but you get the point. The type of carbeurator also affects how you tune your motor. Slide carbs, which are usually on big blocks are a lot more forgiving. Rotary carbs require smaller adjustments. Similar to the small block vs. big block theory. Just stick with what your doing, and keep refering to the tuning book. It is an absolutely great reference piece to keep around. As for break in. I've seen and discussed many various ways of breaking in a motor. Your doing what I would call a cross between the traxxas method and the heat method. Which are fine. Some people say they increase the life of the motor. I'm not sure how much I believe that. Please keep in mind I DO NOT recommend this to anyone. I don't want to be responsible for someone else blowing their motor. I've had several motors that my break in method was a half tank of warming it up, shutting it off. Then race tuning it and running it. The longest motor I kept around that I did this with was a mach 4.27. I got a good 11 gallons out of the motor before I rebuilt. Even then it was by choice. The motor wasn't dying on me. I just felt it to be a good time to rebuild it. I also never let the motor get above 260 when I ran it. I did a ton of racing with the motor, and it did well. Again I don't recommend that, but it is an option, and frankly not the best one out there either. One last thing about your motor. There is a chance you may have just gotten a bad motor. This does happen with all companies. Sometimes a few motors get through that weren't that good. I had a buddy with a mach 4.27 *its probably my fav. motor, that why I keep mentioning it*. When he first got it. It was a dog, had no power, and just didn't run well. I helped him rebuild it, helped him break it in with the heat cycle method. It was still a dog. Sometimes you just get a bad motor. Sealing it, proper break, etc. Won't help. Again stick with it. Don't get too discouraged.
Posted on: 8/8/2009 11:36 PM by Author "dgz69er" in the forum "RC Monster Trucks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9001103

RE: air leak
excellent reply
Posted on: 8/7/2009 10:18 PM by Author "dgz69er" in the forum "RC Monster Trucks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8998780

RE: i need help deciding
hahahahahahaha, these forums amuse me. Everyone bickering over whats the best. A decision will never be made. You want some advice bud. If you have friends who have the rc's your interested in. Drive them, then decide which one is best for you. People can argue all day long. Every rc has weak spots. Just because one rc might have a strong recommendation doesn't mean its the right one for you. Or that you might not buy a lemon. I have personally had the best luck with the lst line from losi. I've had a lst1,2 and an aftershock. They have all been great for me. I've had a savage 25 which was phenominal, and a savage x that I absolutely loathed. I first was a tmaxx, so it broke a lot, and I naturally have negative feelings towards it. That doesn't mean it won't work well for you though. You want people's opinions. Thats cool, but your going to get a lot of mixed answers. Stick with something that has good product support at your lhs.
Posted on: 8/7/2009 10:16 PM by Author "dgz69er" in the forum "RC Monster Trucks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8998774

RE: To Seal or Not to Seal that is Question??
Wow can't believe no one has jumped on this yet. In my opinion it depends on the quality of the motor. I wouldn't seal a high dollar o.s. engine for example. I've had many mach 4.27's. They are a great motor, very durable in my experience, and fairly cheap. I have converted many of them to bump start. I will seal those engines, just because they are of a lower quality. Thats not to say they are bad, but they don't have the same torque and hp as higher end motors. Altough the do have one of the highest rpm limits of any big block that I have seen. As long as you do a proper seal, you are only benefitting yourself. By stopping airleaks you improve fuel efficiency, the life of the motor, and how it runs. Is it going to be a huge difference. Not neccasarily, but every little bit does help. As for you issues with the motors you currently have. It could be a tuning issue. I'm not trying to say you can't tune, but its very common for people to have a rich lsn, so they try to compensate for that my leaning out the hsn. While it might kind of work, its not the correct solution, and all you are really doing is frustrating yourself, and causing damage to your motor. Some motors get a bad name, because they are hard to tune. For example, many people don't like the Team Orion Wasp .28. I had one and it was a great motor, the problem I realized is that. For one its a difficult motor to tune. Two it takes awhile for the motor to warm up. Quite a bit longer than most motors. So people will chase the tune around, and say that temps fluctuate. Which is factual in their experience, but also incorrect. Those motors also run at a higher temp. The instructions in the wasp box say to operate the motor between 270-290. If your ever running an axial, or a hpi motor. They need to be sealed straight out of the box, otherwise they don't produce adequate power, and they can fluctuate on temps. I'd recommend either getting help from someone who knows a lot about nitro motors, or getting the nitro basics book by rc car action. The book is a great reference, and the best 20 bucks I've spent on nitro motors. It taught me a lot. It helps make sense of what is going on in the motor, and with a little practice will help you become a much better tuner. Temp guages are great, but should be used as a reference. Learn how to listen to your motor, it will tell you whats wrong. Once you develop that skill, you will enjoy rc much more.
Posted on: 8/7/2009 10:07 PM by Author "dgz69er" in the forum "RC Monster Trucks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8998755

Something I don't get
I will let you know ahead of time. I'm being brutally honest. So don't take offense. I don't get all these people who are posting vids of their bashing. I understand the concept of making a bashing vid. I've made them myself, but I don't understand that concept of just showing yourself running around on the ground and not getting any big air. I don't understand the concept of showing every wreck you have. I've seen vids where people are jumping off those plastic skateboarding ramps from walmart and only landing once out of ten times, and then they act like its an awesome video. I guess my thoughts are. If you going to make a video, then make a video. Make something that looks like the xxx mains vids, or the slap ma fro vids. Go for some big jumps, and learn how to land them. Nobody wants to see a video of someone crashing 20 times in 3 minutes, or driving around setting up for a jump. The same with photos. Yes they are hard to get, but if you have a good person who will take shots for you over and over again, then do something that is impressive to all. Go the extra mile in your jumps. If you wreck and break, then thats part of the game. I love wrenching on my rc's. Its fun to me. The only time I would show a crash *atleast now days* in a vid. Is if it was a spectacular crash. Something where parts go flying, or it looks really good, then goes horribly wrong. We have all seen the vid. where the guy jumps over the house. He landed it, yes his car broke, but it was a high risk jump, and the reward was great. Also he landed it. He didn't go in nose heavy. Just a thought.
Posted on: 5/25/2009 7:24 PM by Author "dgz69er" in the forum "RC Monster Trucks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8797797

RE: Mach 427 vs Lrp 28?
[quote]ORIGINAL: HerrSavage The LRP is basically the Mach's bigger brother - bigger THIRSTY brother... [/quote] Exactly, and if your racing. I'd absolutely go with the fewer pitstops, over the extra power.
Posted on: 5/10/2009 12:01 AM by Author "dgz69er" in the forum "Losi Monster Trucks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8755672

RE: Whats your favoroute truck and why
[quote]ORIGINAL: HerrSavage Well let's see the big truggy air... I've never seen big air truggy bashing. It doesn't count on a perfectly groomed track either with a great driver nailing the landing on the downside transition.. I mean huge launches off ramps etc... [/quote] I'll take you up on that challenge. Granted in the video I missed the landing but it was a 9ft ramp. Yes it broke, but anything would have broken off of it. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=de8Q7TgZHh4 Here are some photos of me bashing my 8t at a local bmx track. The gap between the burms was measured at anywhere between 15 and 25feet depending on where we measured on the burm. [IMG]http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k248/dgz69er/012.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k248/dgz69er/013.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k248/dgz69er/009.jpg[/IMG] Here is a photo of me jumping over a bowl at a skatepark, which yes I made and no I didn't break. [IMG]http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k248/dgz69er/rc117.jpg[/IMG] Jumping my wifes car at a motocross track [IMG]http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k248/dgz69er/100_1824.jpg[/IMG] Sorry didn't realize that picture was bad, here is a different pic doing the same thing [IMG]http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k248/dgz69er/100_1825.jpg[/IMG]
Posted on: 5/1/2009 8:13 PM by Author "dgz69er" in the forum "RC Monster Trucks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8732814

RE: Weekend bashing only, When is a nitro truck not covered under warranty and consider wear-and-tear?
[quote]ORIGINAL: geepfreek abuse is abuse. have you looked at you tube before? not tring to be a smart a$$, but the reallity is that people beat the hell out of trucks.Break stuff, then complain. but always says they were not doing anything too hard on the truck. [/quote] I very much agree with that statement. I have watched a ton of video's on youtube, and ever here on rcu of people bashing their stuff, and not to sound like a douche, but many of them can't control their rc's for crap. Watch them hit the same jump 10 times in a row and only land it once. Stuff will break because of that. Learn how to drive, learn air control, and when you do make a vid. Don't show us all the crashing you can do. Show us the awesome jumps that you have landed, or a really spectacular crash.
Posted on: 4/18/2009 1:00 PM by Author "dgz69er" in the forum "Losi Monster Trucks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8692951

RE: Losi Muggy or Revo 3.3
Quadracer the next time you decide to reply in a thread, please take the time to read the rest of the thread. You will see that renegade revo and I have discussed this at length for several days now. I don't need you coming in here and trying to make some point that has already been discussed. Renegade Well I can respect the other stuff on the radio not appealing to you. I just got tired of carting around several transmitters, and putting batteries in all of them. It got a little pricey, and even with rechargables, you still had to make sure they were always charged. Which really isn't any different than a receiver pack or starter battery. I just didn't like the idea of having all those radio's when I could have one. I get the idea of having an extra for a friend, but for me 90% of my friends are into rc, and the others have no interest. As for the racing, I never said the muggy won any big races, and I never said that it was better than other truggies out there. I just said that I know people who have done well with it. I know your not going to give much if any cred. to local club races and cash races. That why I mentioned names. This way you can look up their info and see that they are legit sponsored racers. By all means, I would take a 8t over the muggy any day when it comes to racing. Again I look at things from a racing point of view. There is nothing wrong with bashing, I love to do it, but my thoughts are that racing puts a lot more abuse on your car than bashing does. As someone told me. In racing if you miss a jump, you don't get to try it over again. You have to drive around the track and try to hit it again. You truly test the suspension and the setup. The revo has a great suspension on it. One of the most articulate I've seen, but no one else has copied it. So it makes me wonder how great it really is. I get there is probably patent pending issues, but with the exception of 1 10th scale electric, I've not seen it on anything but traxxas products.
Posted on: 4/18/2009 1:14 AM by Author "dgz69er" in the forum "RC Monster Trucks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8691989

RE: Losi Muggy or Revo 3.3
I don't quite understand the radio thing. When i go bashing I tend to bring a few rc's with me. Its always fun to me to run one for awhile, then run the other. Different rc's do different things. Bringing along 2 - 3 radio's seems like a waste of time and space. Why have three radio's? When you can have one that controls multiple cars. I bought my first spektrum radio before I got into nitro racing because I enjoyed having a failsafe built in to the radio. I just don't understand why you wouldn't want to use the better radio, on multiple rc's. I can understand not using expo, the endpoints. If you can get more turning out of your r, then why not, or if you have too much and your getting into the servo saver, then you can dial it back so you don't wear down the servo saver. As for the races where the muggy has won. Let me take a few steps back. I may have mislead you. These races were either local club races, or cash races. These weren't big events such as nitro pit, or silver state. The muggy's were also not stock out of the box. they had 17mm hexes, with truggy sized tires, beefed up servos, back plated motors, and vented clutchbells. They were run in an open truggy class. The other thing about it is, that here in the denver area. We have 3 fullride losi sponsored drivers. Matt Chambers, Dustin Evans, and Lars Johnson. These guys are good, and honestly. They will drive any rc you give them well. I'm not trying to be a name dropper or act superior. I'm just trying to clarify the situation. These guys are also driving the latest 8 line from losi right now. It is in a sense a bad reference, but a point I'm trying to make by saying you can win with a muggy. Yes it will be harder against the newer truggy line. No it might not fit in with one side or another, but in my opinion it does bash well. In fact I feel that most truggies all bash well. They are very light, very agile, and can launch farther than mt's do. For me when it comes to bashing. I enjoy trying to take the biggest jumps I can, or try do something specific. A few years ago I was spending a fair amount of time bashing at a local bmx downhill track. The track had a big wooden awning thing fairly close to one of the switchbacks on the bmx track. I made it my goal to jump from the switch back to the top of the awning. Several of us tried, and after many times of breaking parts, and trying different setups. I finally made it. To me that is what bashing is about. Going out to someplace and finding challenges. I love to jump my rc's. To me personally, a flat chassis rc will handle jumps better.
Posted on: 4/16/2009 9:15 PM by Author "dgz69er" in the forum "RC Monster Trucks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8688254

RE: Losi Muggy or Revo 3.3
[quote]ORIGINAL: RenegadeRevo I can call it misinformation because it's not fact, yet you state it as fact. If you would have stated it as, "In my experience, the Revo doesn't run well unless you use Traxxas Top Fuel." ... then it's not misnformation, it's opinion based on your experience.... and it doesn't present it as a FACT. What IS a fact, however is that you stated, "The muggy is much more stable in the air, comes with a better radio, and your not stuck with one brand of fuel." Which is stated as fact, however is all opinion (other than the radio... however my TQ-3 controls my Revo just as well as my XS3 controls my LST2...)... it's not what you said... it's how you said it that made it misinformation.... which is really funny because I've never heard that argument.... you can use any brand of fuel you want. If he's a nitro noob, that would be VERY misleading. Funny you mention the driveshafts because I've seen / heard very few driveshaft problems with the Revo.... a whole lot less issues than I've seen with CVD's on other brands / models. I did strip a tranny gear... as I stated in previous posts, I stripped my reverse gear which tends to be the cause of the blown transmissions in the Revos... FOC fixed it right up. [:D] [/quote] Fair enough on the fuel. My bad, but just because you haven't heard something doesn't make it the case. Which is the same for me. Once again I make a racing reference here. I get that its for bashing, but I do my testing based off of racing. Mostly because it works the dynamics of the trucks much harder than bashing does, and this is my opinion. I've seen many people try to run other fuel in their trx 3.3's. Everyone of them end up going back to the traxxas fuel because their motors run better and cooler, and in the world of racing. Most people tend to use what works best for them, to get the best results. Now I bash too. When I'm bashing, I still want my lst2 to run at its peak performance. I run byrons gen 2 30% because It has worked the best for me in racing, so I use the same stuff in bashing. I still feel that the muggy is more stable in the air than the revo is. I've owned both trucks. Again I ask have you driven a muggy? From my experience, a fair amount of monster trucks need to be adjusted in the air when you go off of a jump. When I had my muggy I seldomly had to throttle or brake my muggy in the air to adjust it. I prefer a flat plated chassis to an open drivetrain, you don't have to worry about getting anything caught up in your drivetrain. Which is also the same with the servos. I don't feel that having exposed parts is a good idea. As for the cvd's. I'm guessing that they were either not checked, or a lesser quality cvd. Yes if you lose any grub screw on a cvd. It will fall apart, which is why you always locktite them. I use red most of the time so I don't lose any screws. If the cvd's were of lesser quality than the driveshafts, then I don't imagine that traxxas would make cvd kits as an optional upgrade. Your sitting there saying I'm stating stuff as fact. Yet you state: Muggy doesn't fit in any good place... it's not good enough to race with Truggies, but isn't legal for MT's... I've heard reports of it not being a strong basher, either. Thus, I would not recommend it for anything. I've seen people race very well with muggies, even take top spots in the a-mains. Then you say that you have heard reports of it not being a strong basher. Which I'm guessing means you have no experience with the muggy. If thats the case then how can you say the revo has a better manner in the air? I can't debate the radio's you agreed for the most part. Although you can't dial expo into the tq3, nor can you set end points, or use it for more than one car without readjusting your controls.
Posted on: 4/15/2009 6:38 PM by Author "dgz69er" in the forum "RC Monster Trucks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8684877

RE: Losi Muggy or Revo 3.3
shared theirs. I saw some misinformation being shared by dgz69er, and wanted to correct it with my own
Posted on: 4/15/2009 2:02 PM by Author "dgz69er" in the forum "RC Monster Trucks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8684134

RE: Offical Virtual RC Thread!!!!
I recently started racing onroad. I'd like to try this game for practice, will it feature the tc5r, can I run a 13.5 brushless 2 cell lipo setup, and most importantly. I'd prefer to use my own radio. I have a dx3r, can I use this on the game, and if so how does that work?
Posted on: 4/14/2009 9:45 PM by Author "dgz69er" in the forum "RC Car General Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8682159

RE: HPI Nitro Star K4.6 HO in a LST?
Not trying to argue or start another war, but 4.54cc's = .2771 cubic inches.
Posted on: 4/13/2009 7:15 AM by Author "dgz69er" in the forum "Losi Monster Trucks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8676102

RE: Differential Problem?
I agree with checking the set screw first. Knowing what kind of car you have would make it a little bit easier. Depending on the setup, i.e. 3 diff setup, cvd's, etc. That will help diagnore the problem. Stabalize your two rear wheels on the ground, lift up the front and try to spin both wheels. If your setscrew is in place and the other wheel doesn't turn, then you might need a new diff. If you happen to have cvd's check to make sure they haven't lost a set screw also.
Posted on: 4/12/2009 9:04 PM by Author "dgz69er" in the forum "RC Monster Trucks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8675066

RE: HPI Nitro Star K4.6 HO in a LST?
[quote]ORIGINAL: lst2maniac The mach.427 is a really good engine for a rtr its [b]only a .26 [/b]but its pretty strong i wish i had the lrp.28 dyno.I believe the lrp.28 will be the best engine [/quote] Thank you so much for being a person who actually realizes its a .26 engine. Everytime I read a review in the magazines that deals with that motor. The magazines all say its a .27. It just really bothers me. I'm already seeing some people trying to say that the 4.54 is a .28 when its a .27.
Posted on: 4/12/2009 8:56 PM by Author "dgz69er" in the forum "Losi Monster Trucks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8675034

RE: what do u say to ur wife that u r gonna buy anotherRC truck?
I straight up tell my wife I'm buying another rc. She kind of looks at it this way, which is the same way I look at it. As long as our bills are payed, and we have enough money to put food on the table and gas in the cars. Then its not a big deal. Atleast this way she knows I'm not spending our money at the bars, gambling, drugs, or seeing other women.
Posted on: 4/12/2009 8:20 PM by Author "dgz69er" in the forum "RC Monster Trucks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8674905

RE: Losi Muggy or Revo 3.3
Before I continue this banter let me ask you this. Have you even driven a muggy? Have you ever raced? Do you know anything about setting up a car? From a bashing standpoint I could see where you would like the cheesey start, but from a racing standpoint, the point that I am looking at this from. You would not want the extra weight, nor the extra rotational mass on your car. The muggy's system is not ideal, personally I think a bumpstart is the best way to go. However it is a a 1:1 ratio, has very little drag added to the motor. Congrats for getting 2.5 gallons on your trx. You might get lucky and see 4 or 5 gallons. I got 12 gallons out of the last mach that I had. A good 10 of that was racing. Also congratulations on owning one of the very few revo's that doesn't lean out when you turn right on a track. That would be the first one I have ever heard of. The losi has a center diff, and cvd's. The revo has a transmission and, a plastic drive train. The revo being the best thing you have seen in the air. Have you ever driven a losi 8t, or the associated rc8t, or kyosho st-rr. As for calling you a fanboy. You called me out on never driving a revo when you don't even know me. You haven't had anything positive to say about the muggy, all you have done is talked up your awesome revo, and your screenname is renegade revo. I'm sorry but anybody who puts the name of the car they drive or want to drive in the SN, is a fanboy. Look I get that your not going to budge on your thoughts, thats fine. I'm not either. So have a good day.
Posted on: 4/12/2009 8:03 PM by Author "dgz69er" in the forum "RC Monster Trucks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8674861

RE: Losi Muggy or Revo 3.3
[quote]ORIGINAL: RenegadeRevo [quote]ORIGINAL: dgz69er The muggy is much more stable in the air....and your not stuck with one brand of fuel. [/quote] ????? You don't own or ever have owned a Revo, have you? One brand of fuel? that's kinda funny... guess I'm the exception to the rule because I've used several different brands of fuel in my Revo. The Revo has one of the best
Posted on: 4/12/2009 1:12 AM by Author "dgz69er" in the forum "RC Monster Trucks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8672622