RE: servo?
I just bought two new servos for my Kanai 777, I bought Sanwa ERG-VX for throttle/brake and steering, at 0.1sec and 13kg I don't think you need any more!! Cheers, Rich
Posted on: 3/1/2007 2:41 AM by Author "diablo_r" in the forum "RC 1/8th Scale Buggies"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5492405

RE: buggie pics!!!!!
Here is me flying my Inferno at the local circuit in Japan. That is me in the stand in the background and the car is in flight between a 4 jump section on the course, getting about 5ft high. A lucky pic!! Cheers, Rich
Posted on: 3/1/2007 2:37 AM by Author "diablo_r" in the forum "RC 1/8th Scale Buggies"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5492392

RE: Suggestions for my Inferno MP 7.5
Check all the diff and wheel bearings too, I've had a couple wear out on mine. You didn't way which model 7.5 it was but if its a cheapy then I'd also change the diff drive gears and pinions from soft silver metal ones to black steel gears as they strip easy. When you have it apart just check them. Also see if all the diffs have 2 pairs of bevel gears inside them,if not put another set in as the low end inferno's only have 1 pair and they strip. Cheers, Rich
Posted on: 2/25/2007 5:04 PM by Author "diablo_r" in the forum "RC 1/8th Scale Buggies"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5473577

RE: OS Speed VZ-B engine break in
Cheers, I think I'll replace the rods in them both just to be sure. I'm not sure how a slow or fast break in makes any difference though, I would have thought a slow break in would do more damage as the piston is much tighter for longer stressing the rod more. Rich
Posted on: 2/22/2007 5:05 PM by Author "diablo_r" in the forum "RC 1/8th Scale Buggies"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5458987

RE: Need information on this engine
what do you want to know, I've got both the std VZ-B and the Factory tune OS Speed version......
Posted on: 2/22/2007 8:54 AM by Author "diablo_r" in the forum "RC 1/8th Scale Buggies"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5457027

OS Speed VZ-B engine break in
I've been using a standard VZ-B for the last few months and its fantastic, just performs perfectly, starts easy, never stalls etc. I've just bought an Inferno Kanai 3 edition so thought I'd get an OS Speed 21 VZ-B and see what the difference is compared to the std motor. I'll be doing the break-in next week but a bloke at the local buggy club who runs Ninja engines in his Mugens said I should change the conrod and piston pin after the first hour of running. Does anyone else do this? Does anyone have an OS Speed edition motor and could let me know? The instructions don't mention anything like that. I use the hot engine break in procedure, ie 5 mins on the starter box first at 80 deg C low revs to get the bearings etc bedded in, then lean it a little and onto the track for half a gallon gradually leaning off to 110 deg C head (120 deg plug) and proper mixture. Cheers for any info, Rich
Posted on: 2/22/2007 5:49 AM by Author "diablo_r" in the forum "RC 1/8th Scale Buggies"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5456643

RE: Toro 25 prop hub
Hi jmj, I make my own like that, but I mill 2 flats so I can use a 17mm spaner to tighten them onto the crank, and use loctite too. I guess you could also just tighten a prop onto the front and use the prop to tighten the hub onto the crank. Cheers, Rich
Posted on: 11/12/2005 2:28 PM by Author "diablo_r" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3545671

RE: Opensource CDI ignition
[link=http://www.5bears.com/tim4.htm]TIM4[/link] try the TIM4 circuit here, cheap as chips, robust and relaible. I've been running one for a while now. Cheers, Rich
Posted on: 10/26/2005 5:05 AM by Author "diablo_r" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3491021

RE: Opensource CDI ignition
[quote]4.8 or 5 volts to the hall and then to the coil with the hall on a mechanical advance[/quote] you cannot run the coil direct from a hall, it has the wrong sense, and will not take 2 or 3 amps direct. You need a transistor circuit to act as the power switching. For mech advance, yes, thats how many engines are currently. For anything under about 30cc to be honest you don't really need it from some tests I've done. Cheers, Rich
Posted on: 10/24/2005 4:05 PM by Author "diablo_r" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3485769

RE: gas fuel with glo plug no ignition
[quote]I don't understand why is it fouling up your plugs as bad as you say[/quote] I don't ether really, maybe the petrol over here has different additives or something. I ran it for maybe 6 hours on glow but it was costing almost as much in glow plugs as fuel[:o] Well its on a fixed timing home made kettering ign now and runs very well, super smooth, much better than it ever did on petrol/methanol mix. I'll try it again sometime on straight methanol/oil mix to see how it goes, but it will then use twice as much fuel and you are back into it costing twice as much to run as straight petrol/oil. On petrol I get 25 min flights from a 16oz tank[:)], even on petrol/methanol mix it was down to 16 mins, as you've all found you need to screw the jets out a long way compared to petrol and spark. Cheers, Rich
Posted on: 10/23/2005 3:26 AM by Author "diablo_r" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3481369

RE: gas fuel with glo plug no ignition
[quote]traitor [/quote] moi.....?[:D] will be a full blown traitor once I get the CDI flying, I've started heli flying so not done any work on the ign for a couple of weeks, but with a bad forecast for the next week I'll be back in the workshop armed with my new 'scope to get it sorted[:)] Cheers, Rich
Posted on: 10/21/2005 6:00 PM by Author "diablo_r" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3477389

RE: gas fuel with glo plug no ignition
my engine did this a few times, turned out ot be the glow plug fouling after an hour or two running, a new plug cured it each time, but its an expensive cure! I've got back to spark ign now, petrol/alcohol mix is not worth the grief IMHO, go full methanol based fuel and glow, or petrol only and spark. Cheers, Rich
Posted on: 10/20/2005 6:09 PM by Author "diablo_r" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3474051

RE: What magnets for CDI pickup?
I used Neo as I already had them stuck to my toolbox! they were not used for any patricular reason other than they are very strong. What are SH magnets...? I might try some. So far I've had no probs with the neo though, but I'm running with no cowl at the moment so the magnet hub does not get over about 50 deg C. Cheers, Rich
Posted on: 10/14/2005 12:53 PM by Author "diablo_r" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3455040

RE: What magnets for CDI pickup?
Heres what I'm using: Aluminium hub with 5mm counterbore 2mm deep (for the straight sided section) radially. I use dia 5mm depth 2mm neo magnets and stick them in with epoxy, holding them in place with tape over the top while the glue dries. The idea is the magnet sits flush with the diameter of the alu ring. You could just use a drill to make the 5mm bore as a poited end to the hole is no problem, it just fills with epoxy. If its a hall pickup the gap between the magnet and the pickup should be 2mm max, the smaller the better. Also check as some hall pickups only work with a N or a S, some work with the magnet either way round. Just try moving the magnet past the sensor first to make sure you get it in the right way round! You ported the Poulan yet...? Cheers, Rich
Posted on: 10/14/2005 3:21 AM by Author "diablo_r" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3454103

RE: Flywheel -is this safe?
I'd be almost certain that will break. If you look the weight is hung forward of the hub so will create a bending stress together with the radial stress. Couple that with the uneven engine pulses due to firing which will act circumfentially on the wieghts and it is just asking for fatigue failure. I'd say at the very least you need to leave a ring around the outside to use hoop stress in your favour. If you do run it please make sure nothing is in line with it! Cheers, Rich
Posted on: 10/10/2005 1:06 PM by Author "diablo_r" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3441351

RE: Opensource CDI ignition
I've had loads of probs getting the SCR to work. The CDI circuit works fine, LV and HV sides, the hall trigger works but the SCR either runs inconsistently creating misses, latches on all the time, or does nothing at all! I'm using a TIC106D. I got hold of a scope and will try that but has anyoen tried something other than a sensitive SCR to trigger the circuit, I'm thinking its not the most robust/reliable thing to to be triggering the system with. What do commercial CDI's use to trigger them? Cheers, Rich
Posted on: 10/10/2005 3:30 AM by Author "diablo_r" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3440219

RE: Opensource CDI ignition
I made my hall to SCR circuit off the top of my head in the workshop last night, I'll do a diagram and post it up over the weekend once I've worked out how to use my circuit layout program! Its basically similar to the TIM4 circuit with a 1k pot on the output and using only 1 transistor. Also most of the transistors and the SCR I've used are different to your circuit Jon due to what components are easily available here in the UK. I just tried to match spec as close as possible when choosing the alternatives. Thanks for the update, but one question for you or Jorge. I like the simple idea of using the magneto coil for the spark, I have a box of those at home! From the pics it seems you have 3 wires coming out of the hand wound coil. I only expected 2. Also did you literally just wind 50 turns of 0.5 onto the core that comes out of the magneto centre? its tricky too see in the pictures, if you have another picture or two looking end on or from the other side it may be more clear. Thanks in advance, Rich
Posted on: 10/7/2005 4:08 AM by Author "diablo_r" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3430751

RE: Opensource CDI ignition
well I installed the old SCR that was spark jumping at 600v DC, and used a potentiometer to drop the +5v and adjusted it until it triggered. Seemed to work okay, I built a 30Hz input circuit to emulate the hall sensor and all seems okay, but a bit of inconsistent sparking at 30Hz, I think the pot needs a bit more adjusting, or maybe the SCR is damaged too. I should have some new ones tmorrow so I'll change it anyway. the sparks are impressive! I just used a transistor to switch the hall froma 0v to a +5v signal, then the pot, then to the gate of the SCR. I put an LED in too to use for static ign timing. Dr Evil, compared to magneto ign it will cut the weight by about 12- 14 oz I guess, and it should run better as you have fully varaible timing instead of the almost fixed timing of magneto ign. It should also give better starting as you get a spark at any RPM, magnetos usually stuggle below 300rpm which makes hand cranking difficult on some (but not all) magneto motors. Cheers, Rich PS Jon, fixed the xls file, its written for French excel, the dec to hex converter is a different name in the english version[:'(]
Posted on: 10/6/2005 4:49 PM by Author "diablo_r" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3428900

RE: Opensource CDI ignition
Thanks Aablea, I changed the SCR once I had it running at 380v so it should have been okay. My hall pickup is open circuit when no magnet is near, 0v when the magnet is nearby. I know I'll need an inverter circuit but my question is what volts/amps should you be supplying to the SCR gate to make it switch? Is it really 0.8 volts and 0.2amp max? Thanks in advance, Rich
Posted on: 10/6/2005 3:54 AM by Author "diablo_r" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3427268

RE: Opensource CDI ignition
Hi Jon, another question. Changing the capacitor on the LV side fixed the voltage problems, it runs fine now at 380v DC. BUT.... I cannot get the thyristor to trigger the circuit. It works fine if you manually touch a wire to short the anode and cathode of the thyristor, but no matter waht volts I put to the gate I could not get it working. Could you tell me what voltage and current you give the thyristor gate please? I see fr the diagram you have a 470R resistor (R10) and C2 in the line from the PIC to the thyristor. I'm guessing the PIC puts out 5v and the resistor and capacitor are there to limit the volts and current passed to the thyristor gate? What I'm trying to do it get the CDi part with fixed timing working for this weekend so I can go flying before I borrow a PIC programmer to do the PIC. I want to run the CDI circuit with a hall effect pickup as I already have a kettering circuit running on the engine off a hall sensor. Thanks again in advance, Rich
Posted on: 10/5/2005 5:25 PM by Author "diablo_r" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3425596

RE: Opensource CDI ignition
[quote]My high voltage coil is wound on an E-core. I would rather spend $200 on a professional CDI than wind another toroid coil! [/quote] HAHA, me too! have you any pics of your wound E core, I've got loads of E cores and as you say they are very easy to wind. Cheers, Rich
Posted on: 10/5/2005 4:12 AM by Author "diablo_r" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3423886

RE: Opensource CDI ignition
sorry, more questions. In the early schematic there was no resistor in parallel with the high voltage cap, but R11 (10meg) is there now. Also R9 has been added (10k). Could you just let me know the function. I'm guessing R11 is to discharge the cap when the ignition is not turned on, and R9 is to limit the switching current through T1, but maybe I'm wrong! Cheers, Rich
Posted on: 10/5/2005 3:25 AM by Author "diablo_r" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3423848

RE: Opensource CDI ignition
Thanks for the reply! I think this might me my problem, I said 600v but thats all my volt meter goes up to[:-] you cans ee the voltage rise as it charges, it hits the 600v limit and JUST afterwards it self discharges, what I think is happeneing is the DC volts are so high it jumps across the thyristor internally, that dicharges the high volt capacitor and it makes the spark at the plug. I did not have the PIC board connected so there was no prob there. I'll change the 4.7nF for a 4.7uF tonight and try that. I was running off a 6v battery. My home made coil did not work either, you can hear it sparking internally. I'm going to wind another with an insulation layer between each run of secondary. Cheers, Rich
Posted on: 10/5/2005 3:14 AM by Author "diablo_r" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3423839

RE: Opensource CDI ignition
couple of questions JMJ, I made the circuit last night but it does not work quite right. On the far right of your schematic there is a resistor and capcitor (C6 and R1) now it says on the diagram to use 4.7uF, but in the parts list it says 4.7nF. I'm just wondering if this is my problem. It makes enormous sparks, but the circuit free runs at about 1Hz, it sits there happily sparking to itself but I'm getting over 600v from the diode bridge[:-] PS, your toroid pics, is that really 0.1 wire for the 450 turns, it looks a bit thicker? I gave up on 0.1 as my fingers are too big to wind it so used 0.2. Cheers, Rich
Posted on: 10/5/2005 2:40 AM by Author "diablo_r" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3423812

RE: gas fuel with glo plug no ignition
I think the extra heat generated by the lower oil content and the additives in the petrol deteriorate the glow plug very quickly. I run an OS type F in my saito 82 on glow fuel and I change it every 10 or 12 hours or so. The same plug in the Poulan lasts about 2 hours. Oh well, I would the CDI toroid last night so will build the circuit tonight and get back onto spark ign, but I'll post about that in the home made coils thread! From what I've experienced to use glow plugs ytou really need to be using methanol/oil and maybe nitro mix, petrol is not kind and it ends up costing as much in glow plugs as it would in glow fuel in the first place[:-] Cheers, Rich
Posted on: 10/4/2005 3:23 AM by Author "diablo_r" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3420187

RE: gas fuel with glo plug no ignition
well I've now given up on the glow plug with methanol/petrol mix at 35% glow fuel, 65% petrol. It ran fine even when my oboard glow came disconnected during flight! The problem I've found is that it seems to eat glow plugs. After a couple of hours running it gets difficult to start, adn the glow plug gets like a white coating on it. Another couple of flights and it won't even start. Well at the price of OS type F plugs over here I'm going back to petrol and developing the CDi ign to run instead. Its only a couple of oz heavier than an onboard glow setup and will run for years rather than hours. Cheers, Rich
Posted on: 10/3/2005 4:14 PM by Author "diablo_r" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3418297

RE: home made coils for CDI and kettering ign's?
I made one last night from a 220v to 12v transformer with 100 primary but as I was soldering on the -ve wire t the two start ends I broke off the thin wire end[:@] no way to rescue it so its back to start again. I'll let you know how I get on. Cheers, Rich
Posted on: 10/1/2005 3:10 AM by Author "diablo_r" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3411143

RE: gas fuel with glo plug no ignition
I've got my Poulan 25 running on 6% oil, 27% methanol, 65% petrol and 2% nitro (its actually 35% prosynth glow fuel, 65% petrol) and it runs the same glow on or off with a OS type F plug. its got a lot of tuning work done though. I would say 30% methanol is your min content as if you replace the 2% nitro with methanol you are about there. At 30% glow fuel 70% petrol I found it did not run so well and needed the glow on for anything less than about 4000rpm. I've got some straight methanol on order and will mix that at 65% petrol, 32 or 33% methanol, 2 or 3% synth oil. Hopefully have the result of that in a week ort two. Cheers, Rich
Posted on: 9/30/2005 6:03 PM by Author "diablo_r" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3409768

RE: home made coils for CDI and kettering ign's?
fantastic, thanks Jon. Nice website too, I have a seagull harrier as well. I'd be interested in any info for the new CDi circuit too with the programmable delay. I guess you mean it works as auto timing advance? I'm off to search for a transformer now! I had looked at the french website but to be honest designing circuits is beyond my knowledge at the moment. I can make one from a diagram and prototype board but not from scratch. When you put the circuits up for the new CDi system with programmable delay I'd be very interested (or by email if you already have the info but not done the web page yet). I'll PM you my email address. Cheers, Rich
Posted on: 9/30/2005 5:00 AM by Author "diablo_r" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3408093

RE: home made coils for CDI and kettering ign's?
Hi Jon, Thats the kind of thing, and it looks like you are running it from the CDI circuit from the magazine too? I know the modelectric ones have known probs hence asking about making your own, like them, but better, and your small one sounds good. I look forward to some more info. If you know the wire dia for the secondary that would be useful too. Thanks in advance, Rich
Posted on: 9/30/2005 2:28 AM by Author "diablo_r" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3407986