RE: HOW-To..3D maneuvers
[quote]ORIGINAL: RC MANIAC119 Dial in some EXPO......negative EXPO if you use any Futaba system........ that should slow down the over control issue with the ailerons![:D] [/quote] Unfortunately, dialing in expo would only make things worse. The key is angle of attack (AOA) vs throttle. If ur gonna use expo anywhere, use ig one ur elevator. Also the key is to NOT bump ur throttle, make smooth easy and deliberate throttle adjustments. Trust me, i had the same problem and those few pointers work, both for harriers AND elevators, both with really high AOAs.
Posted on: 9/18/2012 6:58 AM by Author "djmp69" in the forum "3D Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11232262

RE: Throttle servo too close to ignition?
[quote]ORIGINAL: captinjohn Maybe Pleasant Grove Ut ...is not so pleasant ! [/quote] LOL, perhaps!
Posted on: 7/27/2012 8:44 AM by Author "djmp69" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11171244

RE: Batteries, what the?
Thanks everyone, really good info! This was happening on a batt that I'd had for a while, and I thought maybe the battery was fried or just bad. I'd bought a brand new one, "formed" it, watching the temperature, and even that one was doing the same thing. I totally agree with Tom's advice, not "trying" additional flightsforget the fact that I really like the plane, it's just not plane safe (pun intended). The first battery I know was probably bad because I'd had it for a while and did more quick charges than I should I'm sure. I'm going to continue to get another new one, and keep the current one if for nothing else as a backup. PS, I will say that as a few of you have pointed out, I suspected the wall charger I have just wasn't enough, so I set up my field charger to charge at 200-300. The result was the same. Cycled it. Same thing...
Posted on: 7/27/2012 8:38 AM by Author "djmp69" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11171234

RE: Throttle servo too close to ignition?
[/quote] Well sir, maybe I misunderstood you as well. When I read this, I took it to mean that those of us that were not abiding by this "rule" were incompetent - because YOUR seemingly extensive experience seems to indicate what we are actually doing doesn't matter? I mean with all those guys (5 different clubs!) believing it's necessary, I'm not sure why you bothered to ask the question either? Are you going to go back now and tell all of them that the guys here think THEY are incompetent? [/quote] You most certainly did misunderstand me. You missed the point of what I wrote which was, that because I know so many people who stick so closely to this rule, and they have success, combined with problems I've actually witnessed when the "rule" was broken, is leading me to question if I'm missing something because, as I've read here, so many people "don't give a flip" about the "rule". If so many people are having no problems with the close quarters set up, I want to understand WHY, and find out any differences, even slight, that may explain why those who go within the 12" are not having issues. I'm sure you have success with your way, and seriously, that's great. At this point, for you, it doesn't matter if you understand it or not (again, not making a judgement), the bottom line is that you know it works based on your experiences. I haven't had those experiences so I'd like a little insight on the matter, that's all. IN NO WAY did I say, nor did I imply that anyone was incompetent. Just because I stated my doubts based on my experiences does not mean I am questioning anyone's compentence (how you got that I don't know). Like I said, I am no know it all, but my doubts have served me well. I have, with this hobby, had some doubts removed by clear explanations and understanding, but I didn't just blindly forget about them just because someone didn't give a flip. I just want to make an educated decision. So no, I'm not going to say to you that you're incompetent, nor am I going to tell the other guys they are. I'm going to continue to seek the answers I need, and in the mean time stick with the method that, from what I've seen, works.
Posted on: 7/27/2012 8:20 AM by Author "djmp69" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11171208

Batteries, what the?
I have a plane running a DLE55, with a 4.8v, 2400mah NiMh batt for ignition. If I remember right, I used to be able to get at least 4 flights out of that config. Now days, After one flight on a "full" overnight charge, the voltage check reads just like it always has, just over 6 volts. However, after one flight, voltage drops down to the 5.39 range. I figured, ok, maybe I fried the battery, so I get a new one, same specs. Overnight charge at 125 mah, got to the field about a 1/2 hour later, voltage had dropped to about 5.7, and after one flight, you guessed it, right around 5.4. I haven't tried to fly beyond this point, should I? Maybe the voltage will hover around after the drop, but should I take the chance? And please, to some of you this may have been asked before, and may be a rookie question, but all of our learning started somewhere, so please no snippy comments about how I should know this already, or check the search engine, or "dude, just use an IBEF, why are you screwing aroud with..." I'd really just like to know if there's something I'm missing or if this is normal... Thanks in advance!
Posted on: 7/27/2012 12:19 AM by Author "djmp69" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11170898

RE: Throttle servo too close to ignition?
[/quote] If you've already made up your mind, why are you here asking questions? Like I said, use the search engine or continue with the course of action you've already decided on. [/quote] I am not a know it all, nor do I or will I pretend to be, especially by berating someone who doesn't know everything there is to know about something is seeking answers of substance instead of snippy worthless comments as yours. If you read my original posts, even though I figured a way to do things, I still would like to know what other people do, what solutions have worked, not worked, etc. If you also read what I wrote earlier, you would see that I am seeking what is outside of what I know. What I know is all I can go on, but I am not so stuck on myself that I think that what I know is all there is. I also don't like to just know an answer, I like to know the reasoning behind the answer so that I can actually learn, and know what I'm talking about or doing. I'm not just going to simply do something just because someone says to do it. As I said before, I have WITNESSED erratic throttle behavior in LOTS of planes when the servo was that close to the ignition and/or switch, and the problem went away when the servo was moved. In every single case. Yes, the majority of these situations was with a 2.4 system (Futaba, JR, didn't matter), and current engines. Or were you too engrossed in your search engine to read that? Not to mention, EVERY engine and servo/recevier manufacturer clearly states the 12" rule in the instructions. By the way, if you have successfully produced a run of engines, servos or receivers, by all means, point me to them, or give me a keyword to use in your suggested search engine, and I'll gladly consider your product... That said, I want to thank everyone ELSE who provided substantial answers and opinions that actually addressed my question (which I apologize I know has been asked time and time again). Those of you that went further to offer actual solutions, or reasonings behind your solutions have helped greatly by giving me more insight to why the servo placement is usually no longer an issue. Those of you that assumed that I ONLY came here, didn't use a search engine, or just simply feel that I wasted your time, well, I won't apologize. Ask me, you wasted your own time writing such pompous and worthless responses, thereby getting into a discussion and writing that you're "not going to get into it AGAIN". Wow, talk about the attention span of a sparrow...
Posted on: 7/26/2012 10:04 PM by Author "djmp69" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11170840

RE: Throttle servo too close to ignition?
[quote]ORIGINAL: BarracudaHockey Actually, I think you will find that most of us that fly gas don't give a flip about the 12" rule, esp with 2.4 systems. [/quote] Actually, maybe that's why I'm having the doubts, because everyone that I know that flys gas sticks to it, and thats among 5 different clubs...
Posted on: 7/24/2012 8:31 AM by Author "djmp69" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11167238

RE: Throttle servo too close to ignition?
[quote]ORIGINAL: Zeeb Any ideas? Yeah.... Nope, on second thought I'm not 'gonna get into this discussion/argument AGAIN. Use the RCU website search engine.....;) [/quote] Really?
Posted on: 7/24/2012 8:29 AM by Author "djmp69" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11167236

RE: Throttle servo too close to ignition?
Well, figured out a solution, works great! Got the mount behind the wing tube, and there's enough clearance between the wing tube and canopy for the pushrod to go in a str8 line to the throttle lever. Just had to build a platform onto the receiver tray. I still would like to know if anyone has had the same issue, how they got around it, or if the specified throttle servo placement ever ended up being a problem. Engine is DLE 55, NGK CM-6 spark plug
Posted on: 7/24/2012 12:11 AM by Author "djmp69" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11166945

Throttle servo too close to ignition?
Not sure if this is the right forum, but the manufacturer lists the aircraft in question as an "ARF-QB", so here goes... The plane is an Aeroworks Edge 540, 50cc. Absolutely gorgeous plane, and the build is really easy and straightforward, especially with all the hardware supplied. HOWEVER, in the manual for the aircraft, it shows and instructs to mount the servo just in front of the tanks, just aft of the engine box. Of course, they also specify to place the ignition just on the other side of the firewall, and the main ignition switch, well, we all know where that usually ends up. The problem is that every gas engine mfg, and even servo mfgs say specifically (some in bold red print) to make sure the ignition and switch are at least 12 inches away from the receiver and any servos. No problem, just modify and improvise, right? Not so easy. I could easily mount the servo further back, BUT the wing tube gets in the way of a straight solid run to the throttle lever. Any position in front of the wing tube leaves a distance of only 8-10 inches away from the switch in any direction, and the angle is bad. Nyrod is out of the questionthe amount of bends and curves and braces I'd have to make just to get it to fit right would be a bit over the top. I and everyone that I know that flys gas swears by the 12 inch rule, and have had no problems with it, but I have witnessed throttle problems including crashes due to suddenly erratic throttle when this rule was broken. Yeah, I could go ahead and do it the easy way and do it like the aircraft manual says, and check it all the time, but I would rather do it right the first time, and not waste gas checking a servo. And we all know that interference never happens when we need it to (testing, range checking), butt pops in when we LEAST need it to. Any ideas on this?
Posted on: 7/24/2012 12:00 AM by Author "djmp69" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11166938

RE: Is mounting the throttle servo close to ignition ok?
[quote]ORIGINAL: xcz5785 Thanks guys! I'm just going to follow directions and mount it in the motor box. It's just the throttle servo for cryin' out loud! What's the worst that could happen? [:D] [/quote] What's the worst that can happen? Let's see, you're hovering, 10ft off the deck, and your throttle suddenly chops to idle. OR, you're landing, you touch down, and suddenly a gust of wind picks your plane up and your throttle chops to idle. Neither is a good time. The thing about interference is that it usually never happens when you need it to (testing, range check, etc.), it always happens when you don't want it to. Why take the chance? I say this from experience. The manufacturer of the aircraft made the aircraft, not the engine. The engine manufacturer knows more about the engine and the ignition more than the aircraft manufacturer (otherwise your plane would have the option of a engine/plane combo), so I would go with what the engine manual says. It's not hard to do, and you can still get plenty of direct, stiff, solid control with mounting the throttle servo 12" away from the ignition. I suggest using metal rods with ball links. As long as there's no metal/metal contact, metal rods aren't a problem. I have 3 CARF planes set up this way, and none have had any problems with interference. With these planes costing $2000 plus, I'm not going to trust in the "it should be ok," "the odds of that happening are," or "it might happen, but it's doubtful" mantras. I go with what I KNOW is going to happen. Again, I say this with experience, not just an honest opinion...
Posted on: 7/22/2012 7:15 PM by Author "djmp69" in the forum "The Clubhouse"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11165147

RE: Can a RC Plane surf?
Man, I'd LOVE to see your vid! I once saw a utube vid of some full scale team that actually skimmed water with their wheels no trick photography. As far as the idiots commenting, I say you reupload the video, but this time, set it so no one's comments will show up without your approval? That way, you can delete any comments before they go live. Those guys probably are just jealous because they don't have the balls to do or even try what you're doing. How do you think a lot of aerobatic and 3D moves got figured out? Heck, even bike tricks. If you break it down, these moves are nothing more than maneuvers created by getting into trouble and figuring a way out of it. That's what makes them exciting. Someone just had to try it, do it, figure it out etc. Cases in point: #1 The airplane is out of control, flipping tail over nose on the wingtip. If there's a crash, people say the pilot lost control. If there's recovery, and a cool zoom away, all of a sudden it's a Lomcevak or Knife Edge Spinboth airshow hits. # 2 A plane pops up nose up before without any real airspeed and slows down severely wanting to rock or sink. The pilot manipulates throttle and keeps it going, or gently lowers it to the ground. If it goes in, everybody says the bird was too tail heavy, or the pilot stalled it. If the pilot keeps it going, then hovers, or does some rolls, or lands it smoothly, all of a sudden it's a bad-ass Wall or Harrier. # 3 Rider on a motorcycle puts too much pressure on the front break. If the bike flips and bites hard, they're either "stupid" or "a rookie". If they roll it, ease pressure, and bring the ass down, all of a sudden it's a Stoppie. I think you see what I'm getting at... I say keep practicing at it as long as you're safe about it, and re upload your vid!
Posted on: 7/4/2012 9:38 PM by Author "djmp69" in the forum "3D Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11143417

RE: HOW-To..3D maneuvers
For 3D, you want more torque for better throttle response than pull. The more pitch you have in the prop, it will be faster, but your spool-up will be slower, and you don't want slow spool up when you hit your throttle. Especially in hovering. A larger diameter will compensate for the lower pitch, and give better prop wash over your surfaces which is what you want since 3D maneuvers are basically maneuvers at stall speeds, and you really dont have alot (if any) forward movement to create other airflow over the surfaces. I would say if you can keep the AUW (all up weight) around 8 lbs, put a xoar 17x6 on that DLE 20, and have some fun! IMHO, the DLE20 will be fine for that bird.
Posted on: 6/28/2012 9:54 AM by Author "djmp69" in the forum "3D Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11135147

RE: HOW-To..3D maneuvers
Both really cool planes! From my experience, the Edge is a great tumbler, and needs very little control surface throw to do anything, so it's a great 3D bird. Never had an MX2, but if they do what Rob Holland can make the full scale version do, it should be a blast as well. Best of flying to you!
Posted on: 6/27/2012 10:52 PM by Author "djmp69" in the forum "3D Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11134746

RE: Slick wants to snap to the right with quick elevator input
One thing to keep in mind, too much elevator (relative) on a nose heavy plane will cause a snap at certain speeds, at certain speeds of elevator input, and in dives. The thing to remember is it doesn't depend on the way you set your balance point in the CG range to fit your flying styleit all comes down to how your plane is balanced vs wing loading, and how your throws are set. Couple cases in point. I have a King Kobra and an Edge 540 that both exhibited the same characteristic. Both very different airplanes, both did the same thing. Now, on the Edge, there was little I could do because I had an engine on there that was WAY bigger than spec'd (a 1.08 on a .60 size bird). Even though I'd balanced the plane "tail heavy" for 3D, the wing saw the plane as too heavy overall for the spec'd wing loading. Now, I could pop into a wall with this plane really well, but if I was too fast on the elevator, it would snap to one side. I added a tad of expo, and the snapping thing diminished a whole lot. On the King Kobra, I had the "correct" sized engine, but balanced the plane "nose heavy" to kinda cheat in certain maneuvers. Again, if I yanked on the elveator too fast, especially in loops, the plane would snap. I got tired of this snapping and didn't want to cheat anymore, manned up, balanced the plane neutral and learned how to do those certain maneuvers the proper way. After taking the extra weight off the firewall, guess what happened? The snapping disappeared on low rates. Now I still kept my high rates the same, so of course in high rates the snapping was still there if I got on the elevator too fast, BUT, it dramatically decreased. The plane was way more stable and actually more fun to fly. Now I'm not saying you have your plane balanced wrong, not at all. Just another thing to consider. When an airplane get too heavy for it's specified wing loading, "funny" things start to happen, usually snapping types of things. Also don't forget P Factorwhich basically means that when the prop "disc" angles away from the main line of travel, the downward swinging blade has more pull. Depending on your throttle input and power plant (including prop size), this could mean that your right wing would speed up and get more lift, OR, it could actually mean the down swingin blade has more bite and slows down adding to the torque phenom. And it doesn't take much variance for either to happen. Example, Knife Edge Coupling, which is more evident on certain kinds of planes and/or setups.
Posted on: 6/25/2012 10:04 PM by Author "djmp69" in the forum "3D Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11131996

RE: HOW-To..3D maneuvers
I agree, leave the gyro, expo, and mixing stuff alone. That stuff can actually get you into trouble sometimes. I've seen and exerienced it. Plus, you'd be surprised at what you can come up with when you do stuff without the aid of mixes and gyrosthe learning curve introduces new things that you can harness, perfect, and turn into new maneuvers...
Posted on: 6/24/2012 9:09 AM by Author "djmp69" in the forum "3D Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11129804

RE: Knife Edge Spin Doctor Needed
Yeah I thought about that, but here's the thingI have plenty of rudder authority. The Funtana will KE all day, and even does KE loops, either from a hover or in motion. The rudder is pretty much just shy of touching the elev halves at full throw. Plus, the SFGs only would help the rudder when the air is moving ACROSS their faces, not AT their faces as in the spin. The Edge does it way better with no SFGs, and not at much rudder. Besides, I'd like to learn to do it without the help of any "cheaters" or learn the proper set up (I have an idea my setup is a bit off). Good point though, thanx!
Posted on: 6/24/2012 9:03 AM by Author "djmp69" in the forum "3D Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11129796

Knife Edge Spin Doctor Needed
I have two planes, one of which I can't seem to get to KE spin correctly no matter what I try. (I'm sure I haven't tried everything). With my Edge, I nail it every time, to the point that the plane is literally spinning on the wing axis with the wing pointing straight down, like a pole is going thru wingtip to wingtipnot the slanted knife edge attitude. And that's at idle. If I throttle up, it just gets faster, tighter, and more exciting (no comments from perverts please). BUT: With the Funtana, which is balanced a bit tail heavy (purposely, just like the edge), I can only get it in the slanted knife edge attitude. If I add throttle, it goes into an inverted flat spin. I've also tried going right into it, both idle and with some power, same result. The only way I can seem to get it to somewhat KE spin is to just let it fall, no rudder, full aile and Down Elev. I also notice I need to keep more left aile in. With the Edge, I can get the stick damn near neutral for the perfect KE spin. I know different planes fly differently, but to this extreme? Is there something I'm missing, maybe different RC Crew Chief setup options for the Funtana, or does the Edge just do it better because its a better tumbler? My rudder rates on both planes in high are relatively the same in both planes, but the Funtana has way more relative throw in the elevators. No Rudd/Elev mix on either bird... Any ideas?
Posted on: 6/23/2012 10:51 PM by Author "djmp69" in the forum "3D Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11129446

RE: 3D Plane for DLE 20?
Seriously, get a Funtana 125. Swing a Xoar 17x6. Motor mounts go all the way top, and to the left of the firewall (your right if you're facing the plane). Go pull/pull, instead of the rudder servo in the back. VERY good 3D machine, as well as a bit of a speedster if you want it to be, but floats in like a feather. Hover, Harriers, Blenders, Walls, it will do it all and will not break the bank. Hell, I've even done Knife Edge hovers with mine. Believe it or not, if you put it together right, the plane WILL pull out of hovers (not just lazily slide out of them). Seriously. The only thing with that plane, is don't trust the factory job on the landing gear. Take the 15 minutes to beef up the bottom of the fuse where the landing gear attaches. Mine, it rolled down the runway for about 10 feet after a greased landing, and the gear popped right from under it. Once I beefed it up, there was little to no weight added, and I've since had 80+ more very exciting flights with it. To date I only have a vid of one of the first few flights, when the engine wasn't quite broken in yet, this it it: http://youtu.be/Aq-tqGK4ASc Pretty windy day, loose spark plug:: not a whole lot of 3D, but there's a hover or two, flat spins, a blender, some other stuff. I'm no 3D expert, but maybe it'll give you an idea of the setup? Hope that helps?
Posted on: 6/23/2012 10:41 PM by Author "djmp69" in the forum "3D Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11129440

RE: HOW-To..3D maneuvers
Glad I stumbled onto this, seems like I'm doing everything prety much the way you said. Very interesting you pointed out to "not mess around" or end up in an inverted flat spin. Equally interesting, is that on my Edge, I nail it every time, to the point that the plane is literally spinning on the wing axis with the wing pointing straight down, not the slanted knife edge attitude. And that's at idle. If I throttle up, it just gets faster and more exciting. Now the kicker: On my Funtana, which is balanced a bit tail heavy (purposely, just like the edge), I can only get it in the slanted knife edge attitude. If I add throttle, it does like you said, goes into an inverted flat spin. I've also tried going right into it, idle and with some power, same result. The only way I can seem to get it to somewhat KE spin is to just let it fall, no rudder, all aile and Down Elev. I also notice I need to keep more left aile in, as opposed to the Edge, which I can get the stick damn near neutral for the perfect KE spin. I know different planes fly differently, but to this extreme? Is there something I'm missing, maybe different setup options for the Funtana, or does the Edge just do it better because its a better tumbler? My rudder rates on both planes in high are relatively the same in both planes, but the Funtana has way more relative throw in the elevators. No Rudd/Elev mix on either bird... Any ideas?
Posted on: 6/23/2012 10:21 PM by Author "djmp69" in the forum "3D Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11129424

RE: Which way to smoke?
Get my facts straight? Ok, hows this: FACT: I specifically asked about differences between a Sullivan Skywriter, and the TME system. FACT: You wrote that you have a "Sullivan Streamer on [your] fuel can" (your words, not mine), so yes, you were speaking pretty specifically about a can pump. FACT: The Skywriter is an on board smoke pump to get smoke oil to the mufflerthe Streamer is a pump to get oil into the smoke tank that feeds the pump (though, I'll give that if you rig it enough, you can use it as a smoke system for a plane). FACT: You said that you "don't know the differences between this and the Skywriter." again, your words, not mine (looks like I'm not the one with non-straight facts). FACT: I do appreciate your input and willingness to help (seriously), and I was not jumping on you, I was simply pointing out what the original question was. I notice here that most times, the original question gets forgotten because people eventually get away from the point of the thread and introduce subject that has nothing to do with what the OP was asking about. Case in point, there have already been two other brands introduced into the thread, neither of which are Sullivan or TME. Again, no face-smack to them for their input, just those do not answer the questions I had. Straight enough?
Posted on: 6/8/2012 10:58 PM by Author "djmp69" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11112000

RE: Which way to smoke?
[quote]ORIGINAL: KW_Counter I have a Sullivan Streamer on my fuel can. It works wonderful and never a priming problem. I don't know the differences between this and the Skywriter. I only mention this in support of Sullivan products; hope it helps. Good Luck, KW_Counter [/quote] Ok, again, I am asking about smoke systems for an airplane. I am NOT talking about a pump to get the oil into the tank, I am talking about the system that actually pumps the oil to the muffler. Thanks all that paid attention for your very informative responses. Looks like its a tossup given all the variables, as I've heard and read successes and failures from both. Actually got some really good, useful info here, thanks guys, Happy Flying!
Posted on: 6/6/2012 9:53 PM by Author "djmp69" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11109634

Which way to smoke?
Trying to decide on which smoke system to go with. I've heard both pros and cons from users and witnesses of both TME and the Skywriter. The most I've heard the TME is less of a pain to set up but the Sullivan Skywriter puts out more smoke. I'm going for Sean Tucker "airshow" type smoke, not the simple puff you get fro a 4S when you get on the gas. As I am a geek, I don't mind a little "within-reason" tinkering to ge it set rightthat's what we do in this hobby anyway right (at least REAL hobbyists anyway)? I'm just wondering if anyone has any input as to if the tinkering needed with either one is beyond reasonable versus the final result, how well rates can be programmed/controlled, failure ratesthat kinda stuff? Engine is a DLE 55. AND PLEASE: Real world, RELATIVE responses only! Thanks all in advance!
Posted on: 6/5/2012 4:11 PM by Author "djmp69" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11107801

RE: Prime Cut CG???
Yep, it's a Sarpolus. Thanks for the info!
Posted on: 5/28/2012 10:38 AM by Author "djmp69" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11097416

Prime Cut CG???
Just about finished with a Prime CutNOT the short build, but the real deal kit. Started by a fellow modeller (R.I.P.), so I have no plans. The plane is pretty much built now, so no need for all the plans, just wondering if anyone knows the recommended CG for this aircraft? Again, this is not the short build with the one piece fuse/canopy. I tried to attach a pic, but the site wouldn't let me upload. This is the 60-62", 90" wingspan bird, featured in the Sept '89 issue of MAN. Yes, I know I can get the plans from AMA, but really all I need is the CG... Anyone have any ideas?
Posted on: 5/27/2012 10:02 PM by Author "djmp69" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11096930

RE: Super Tiger Exhaust Setting?
Thanks for the info, but I know how tuen pipes work, hence my question. I guess I should have been more clear. The pipe in question is not the squarish one with the baffle inside, it's the smoothed one with the taper toward the end, and kinda looks like a pipe with the front sqished. As I suspected, everyone here is saying pretty much the same, which is that "pipe" has not tuning properties, and it looks like I'm going to have to cut the header a bit. Even in your answer, you've answered my question in that the "pipe" I have is just a flow thru (hence the beer can term, lol), and makes perfect sense. I guess I was thinking along the lines of the long pipes, and wondering if the combination of the can plus the length of the header into it would affect performance by sliding the can down further on the header, thereby "lengthening" the pipe, kinda like a trombone. I guess, a cutting I will go!
Posted on: 4/13/2012 12:57 PM by Author "djmp69" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11040513

Super Tiger Exhaust Setting?
Anyone ever have any experience with Super Tigre .61s? I have two of them and they run great, but I can't help but think I can get more umph out of them. I know these engines don't like to run lean. My question comes from looking at the header and muffler (the "beer can")any tuning effect? Also, from looking at the header, it seems that to get it aesthetically clean on the plane, it goes WAY into the muffler, to the point it seems as if the end is right up against the wall of the muffler. So given that, my question would be does that muffler have any tuning properties? I realize sliding the muffler down the header a bit would of course let the engine "breath" better, but will that affect performance, or can I just get away with cutting the header down to open up some space inside the muffler, keeping the muffler close to the fuselage? Hope that makes sense...
Posted on: 4/9/2012 7:27 PM by Author "djmp69" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11035344

R U Kidding ME?!?
Does anyone know why all the hobby outlets are charging almost double for spark plugs? I shudder to thing they are charging like that because they know we need them. For example, a few well known "stores" are charging $8 for a spark plug for DLE engines, but if you go to any other spot, say auto parts stores, gardening stores, etc, those places carry the exact (yes, same part number, same model, same plug) same plug for anywhere between 3.99-4.99. Anyone got any insight on this? Do they do something special to the plug to warrant the 1-for2 price?
Posted on: 2/8/2012 9:41 AM by Author "djmp69" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10949765

RE: USTFA?!?
Thinkk I found it...
Posted on: 1/10/2012 3:42 PM by Author "djmp69" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10902355

RE: USTFA?!?
Yep, thats more like it, at least from what I could tell from the picture, wish they had different angles. Howd you find that? Any idea where the specs/plans would be found? I checked around, but plans I found are for a prime cut version that's not the same. Thanks for the heads up!
Posted on: 1/10/2012 3:40 PM by Author "djmp69" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10902352