RE: Zenoah G38 bellcrank
Chad, thanks for that link, I never thought to look there.
Posted on: 6/8/2009 6:31 PM by Author "djr1007" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8836299

RE: Zenoah G38 bellcrank
If you are saying you'd like to sell the one you have, you got it. My email is djr1007@cox.net. Dan Ribbentrop 4702 E. 24th Street Tucson, Az 85711. Shoot me an email with your address or paypal and I'll get you the $ right away. Thanks!
Posted on: 6/8/2009 6:29 PM by Author "djr1007" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8836293

Zenoah G38 bellcrank
I'm installing a G38 in a Decathlon and will be using the bellcrank on the throttle. I think I have a an idea of how it goes, but would really like to see a good close up picture of this arrangement if someone else has been thru this already. Thank You.
Posted on: 6/5/2009 1:31 PM by Author "djr1007" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8827973

RE: phoenix 8 verse phoenix 7
Contact George Truett @ gltruett02@yahoo.com. You may have to wait awhile for his next run, but his P8 kit is basically just the fuse, wings & stab cores. I'm sure he would send you just the cores.
Posted on: 2/13/2009 4:52 PM by Author "djr1007" in the forum "Classic Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8473343

RE: Don Lowe Phoenix 8
George Truett recently did a run of P8 kits and I was able to get one of those, which I recently started. Fiberglass tube, foam cores, and a set of plans and instructions that assume your not new to this type of kit. George and many of these forums have been very helpful though and I'm sure I'll have no problem (except for the fact that I sheeted the wings first). That is going to make the retracts a little more difficult, but I figured my dremal router should work ok. I also saw an article on retract installation in which you install a plywood rib on either side of the mounting box. It looked like a very good idea to distribute the force on landings. This means I'll have a 1/8" groove to fill, but I intend to glass and lacquer this plane anyway (another skill I just learned, sure wish I was in this sport back 20 years ago to learn this stuff). There are VERY few of the old time builders around here, it's a shame these skills are being lost, that's partly why I've undertaken to try and learn them. These forums are great, but it would sure be nice to have someone around I could actually work with and apprentice with. Like crankpin, I've got a rossi 60 with the power pipe, and my spring airs are on the way.
Posted on: 2/13/2009 3:10 PM by Author "djr1007" in the forum "Classic Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8473036

RE: LEO 110 pattern plane
Check out the world models 120 http://www.theworldmodels.com/para/products/airplanedetails.php?airplaneid=165 The problem was the covering was cheap, but it was one of the best pattern planes I've flown (under $300). Search "Spot on 120" here and google and you will find a lot of info. I used a YS110 in mine, but a OS120 or similar would be better. This plane as adjustable incidence, something you don't find in many planes under $750. It's worth a look.
Posted on: 1/29/2009 1:55 AM by Author "djr1007" in the forum "Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8414667

RE: TF Corsair .60 Build
Pro-E I have one of these on the shelf, even have the retracks and engine, but It's #3 in line for the building table. I'll be watching for your updates, keep them coming. LOTs of pictures please. Just a suggestion, get a little more light on the subject and get closer with the camera. Any thoughts yet on covering? Thanks, Dan.
Posted on: 1/27/2009 3:00 PM by Author "djr1007" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8408067

RE: Building a Dynaflite Super Decathlon
Since your going to make full length ailerons for roll rate, have you or anyone else thought about doing a "Clipped wing" SD? My SD is next up on the table and I've been toying with that idea, just leaving out the last bay. Any thoughts?
Posted on: 1/26/2009 6:22 PM by Author "djr1007" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8404615

Finishing Klass Kote
After shooting the final color coat and letting dry at least 24 hrs., what's the best way to finish up? Another 400 wet, rubbing compound, polish, or what.
Posted on: 1/14/2009 2:26 PM by Author "djr1007" in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8357682

RE: New Aeroworks .60/.90 Planes
OK, ended up with the battery pack (small 5 cell 6V NiMh) just behind the canopy in the turtle deck. I just cut a 2" lite ply plate and glued it in on the stringers creating a shelf in the turtle deck. Roll her over on her back and she stays level the length of the box, just the way I like it, and it's still very stable on the elevator. I went back and fine tuned the KN settings and this thing flys on a wire now. On the down line she had just a hint of pulling out, I put in about 2% down elevator slaved to the throttle at idle and that took care of that. I'm in love and believe the OS75 was the best choice overall. The stock muffler hanging down makes it look a little like a bomber, but not too bad. I'd maybe do the next one with a pitts muffler. Well, it's just a lot of flying now, and maybe some more fine tuning. One of the advanced IMAC guys is teaching me the finer points of tuning, but even he is surprised by how well this Yak flies.
Posted on: 1/2/2009 12:07 AM by Author "djr1007" in the forum "3D Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8308232

RE: New Aeroworks .60/.90 Planes
kf6gub: Yes, prophylactically is what I meant. Guess I shouldn't try to use words I can't spell, and I'm usually forget to run spell check. For everyone else, sorry again for the delay but between Christmas, visitors, flying and building I've been pretty busy. QB? Yes, except for the hinges these were just as fast as my 50cc size. Throw meter? No, just the paper meter for for the rudder. My 50cc Yak came with both. A friend of mine also received his and he had me put it together for him, guess what? the same exact thing with the blind nuts, 2 of 4 broke right off. I've tried to contact Aeroworks several times to let them know, but I never get past the receptionist. I've started dialing things in. Moved the batteries back from the motor box to just in front of the wing tube. KN left to right needed slight right aileron & down elevator (3% each). KN right to left needed 3% up elevator. These were extremly slight changes and it now KNs with rudder only. I've been running the OS75 on a APC 14X6 for break in, it now has about 12 flights and I just put a 15X6 wood on. Eventually I'll try a 4W and see what she does in 3D. Verticle is not unlimited with the 75 and I don't expect will be even after full break in and prop changes, but there's nothing in sportsman it won't do. Tomorrow we'll see how the changes go and I plan to try some inverted spins. So far, I LOVE IT.
Posted on: 12/31/2008 1:44 AM by Author "djr1007" in the forum "3D Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8301221

RE: New Aeroworks .60/.90 Planes
Sorry for the delay in getting back to you all, and I haven't taken any pictures yet, but here is how it's gone. Both Yaks were fantastic to build, took 3 evenings to do both. I put the OS75s in both and I'm not at all sorry about that choice. These planes handle every bit as nice as my 50cc AW Yak! It will hover on the OS75, but not a lot of extra pull out power, but I was running 14X6 on both for break in and test flights. I'm pretty sure that after they've had a gallon run thru and I can tune them up a little they will do much better, especially with a 4W blade. But for sportsman sequence they already have every bit of power they need. There is one gotcha you should watch out for! I'd be very careful about the blind nuts. 3 out of 4 blind nuts on the fire wall broke off at the barrel & head. I've been building kits and ARFs a long time and I know for a fact I didn't put too much torque on them. I also had one on the second plane do this, and one on the canopy! (and you know you can't over torque those). I've never seen this before, I'm sure they must have had a bad batch, but no way to tell how many of these are out there. You may want to consider replacing them propolactically. I used all the stock hardware and JR821s all around, I felt no need to upgrade the HW, and the 821 standard digitals performed very well, even in blenders and knife edge spins. I put the batteries on top of the motor box, and inverted had a slight nose down, I'll move them back to just in front of the wing tube. Side thrust seems to be right on (but I need to move the CG back before I can be sure). It Knife edged with low rate rudder, and had only the VERY slightest pull to the canopy. But all of this is right out of the box on the first two flights. All in all, Aeroworks comes thru again with a ARF that is well worth the money and way above anything else out there.
Posted on: 12/24/2008 11:01 AM by Author "djr1007" in the forum "3D Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8277973

RE: New Aeroworks .60/.90 Planes
I bought two of the 60-90 Yak 54s. They are every bit as nice as my 50cc yak. I think these are worth evey penny, they put all other BARFs to shame. I originally intended to shoe horn 2 YS110s I have into these, but after checking them in person that would be just WAY too much. I just bought two new OS75s to go into them. Actually one belongs to a friend and I'm building it for him. We'll maiden them both Saturday.
Posted on: 12/18/2008 4:31 PM by Author "djr1007" in the forum "3D Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8258858

RE: Budget 150???
You guys have me confused, I looked at the RCGF 150 and it said $1800, I also checked Cxxxf and they have the DA150 listed at $1300, how do you get nearly $5000?
Posted on: 12/17/2008 12:50 PM by Author "djr1007" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8255005

RE: cleaning an engine?
I have engines that are over 4 years old and have little of the brown varnish or anything else, and I don't ever clean them (unless crashed, and then it's just Isopropal and carb cleaner spray). One of the biggest reasons for the varnish to form is running too lean, the engine is getting hot and cooks the castor that is on it. So if you see it starting to form, you may well be running too lean.
Posted on: 10/29/2008 12:18 PM by Author "djr1007" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8095722

RE: I have, NO Mojo
Thanks Erik, I think your right about the OS. The YS on a pipe is high rev small blade pattern engine. I think I'll go with the OS. I'm "Intermeadiate (ish)" 3D pilot, I've tried profiles beofre (like the Extreme) and didn't make much progress. I've been flying UCDs (5 so far) with YS110s, and I seem to be able to handle that better. That's why I picked the Primo, for the longer fuse. I probably should just get a good mentor, but few profile guys around here. Thanks again.
Posted on: 10/27/2008 1:58 PM by Author "djr1007" in the forum "3D Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8089542

RE: I have, NO Mojo
I just ordered the Primo, that the same thing as the MoAss option? I ordered the 40 size, I know the OS55AX is a good choice, but I already have a YS 45 side exhaust on the shelf (almost new), and I have stock and tuned pipe for it. Do you think this YS will be enough to pull out rapidly? I'm used to flying a UCD with a YS110 4 stroke, so I'm pretty spoiled having all that extra power.
Posted on: 10/25/2008 1:12 PM by Author "djr1007" in the forum "3D Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8083544

RE: Is Rustoleum spray paint fuel proof?
Along the same line, has anyone tried "Fusion" the plastic/vinal whatever spray? I use it inside of all my canopies, works great. But I've never tried it on a ABS or FG cowl. Any experience?
Posted on: 10/15/2008 3:17 PM by Author "djr1007" in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8051722

RE: Channel Mixing Problem
JR Matchbox will fix all your problems (and it will work on your Futaba). Provides control over up to 4 servos and you can easily set & adjust mid point, endpoint, direction, etc for each one running off just one channel, no channel mixing needed on your Tx.
Posted on: 10/1/2008 1:42 PM by Author "djr1007" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8008944

RE: Good base for building
I switched to a metal table and use magnets, I'll never go back. Allows easy set up, I can use wood glue (no CA fumes), and you just can't get any straighter build. I built my own 1/4" plate table, but you can get by cheaply with a metal clad door, or even thin sheet on a good flat service. Getting all the magnets and pieces takes some time, but it's worth it over the long run. Cruse this web site and you'll not be sorry for the time spent. http://www.airfieldmodels.com/information_source/how_to_articles_for_model_builders/index.htm Here's a pick of my table. Great planes sells magnet systems (or they did), you can easily make them (including clamps) yourself, or can buy them premade from airfield models at the link above. He tells you how to make your own, but he also sells them. I made most of my own. As you can see, I also make use of some old 12V batteries, they are heavy and very square. I didn't believe it myself, but using magnets and white glue is just as fast as CA, and NO fumes. You also have a little time to adjust things if you need to.
Posted on: 9/16/2008 1:20 PM by Author "djr1007" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7959944

PHP idle problem
Helping a friend tune his new PHP 26cc. Just one of the many new Chinese gasers. I've followed the Walbro instructions from this forum for setting the needles, but cannot get an idle that will hold for more than 4 or 5 seconds. Transitions nicely, getting about 7700RPM, but take the idle below 4K and it only holds for a few seconds before starting to drop RPMs and then die. I've followed the same instructions to check, clean and set the high/low speed needles, diaphram, pump, no air leaks, shortened the pulse tubing from the the crank case to carb. I'm out of ideas. The instructions are of course in Chinese so they are useless. I've run about 4 tanks thru this thing so far @ 30:1 (tried some 50:1 just to see, no difference). Also, no choke on this thing, only way I can get it going is to hold my finger over the carb and flip it 6 or 8 times. That's not going to work when he puts the cowl on, what then? Any ideas or help? Thanks.
Posted on: 8/26/2008 9:16 PM by Author "djr1007" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7889592

RE: Tools and Shop for Pattern Fliers
That's "I WOULD pay" to visit it.
Posted on: 8/13/2008 4:01 PM by Author "djr1007" in the forum "Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7842085

RE: Tools and Shop for Pattern Fliers
Joe; You'd be hard pressed to beat http://www.airfieldmodels.com/ for tools, how to's, tips, tricks, etc. I used his magnet system and I love it, but as he says you don't have to go to those lengths to build great planes. He also gives instructions on how to build your own tools. You'll love this site. I pay to visit it.
Posted on: 8/13/2008 4:00 PM by Author "djr1007" in the forum "Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7842078

RE: Engine Surging Question
Run it full throttle, see any air bubbles between tank and needle valve? Yes, then a foaming issue most likely, pad the tank. If you only see the air bubbles between the needle valve and carb, then your needle valve assembaly is leaking, tighten it up, seal it up, and/or move it off the back plate (it can hang in space, or screw it to firewall or something. Often when I've seen this it's the valve, cut a narrow piece of full tubing and slip over the needle and then screw it into the asm. (O ring is better if you can find the right size at ACE). All in all, I'd bet it's the high speen needle valve asm. I've seen this many times.
Posted on: 8/8/2008 7:14 PM by Author "djr1007" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7825111

RE: Fall Phoenix Pattern Contest
This is great news! Not much happens in Tucson except the shootout. I'm looking forward to finally meeting you Troy.
Posted on: 8/8/2008 12:19 AM by Author "djr1007" in the forum "Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7822398

RE: Finish the Phoenix
Crankpin Did you do anything to the stab before priming? (fiber glass, balsa sealer, etc)?
Posted on: 8/7/2008 3:22 AM by Author "djr1007" in the forum "Classic Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7818630

RE: Yak 54 choices
I've got the 50cc Aeroworks Yak with a DA50, I can't say enough good things about how well this thing flys, and about Aeroworks. Best built ARF I've ever seen, tedious stuff already done and they even include throw meters and extra covering. Not cheap, but about the same as QQ's Yak.
Posted on: 8/6/2008 1:41 PM by Author "djr1007" in the forum "3D Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7815852

RE: Do You Stand or Sit
Stand,,,,Sit? All I want to know is where Graybeard gets his calendars!
Posted on: 7/24/2008 8:23 PM by Author "djr1007" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7768833

RE: Flex ruler?
Ed, can I assume that once you used the pencil you must have coated with clear coat to seal it?
Posted on: 7/22/2008 12:44 AM by Author "djr1007" in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7757877

RE: Finish the Phoenix
Crankpin: I'm watching intently and learning a lot. Thanks for the extra work it takes to do one of these threads.
Posted on: 7/22/2008 12:34 AM by Author "djr1007" in the forum "Classic Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7757853