RE: New Zenoah GT-80 misfire
[quote]ORIGINAL: wingstrut K-Bob, do you have a recommendation for a transmitter operated engine cut off? Thank you for your time..............Ron [/quote] On mine, I ran a micro switch for the ignition cut off. There was a separate servo on a separate channel, 2 position switch activated, so that I could cut the ignition by grounding the magneto at any throttle setting at any time. In the pic, you can see the servo and micro switch on the right rear of the engine box. The other servo, on the left, is for throttle. Additionally, the magneto ground was set up in parallel so that it could be activated by a separate fuselage mounted switch on the ground. That way, much as with a full size plane, it was not hot until deliberately made so. While parked, I activated both cut offs, just to be certain. No bystanders could inadvertently get the engine to fire.
Posted on: 5/18/2013 10:13 AM by Author "do335a" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11515181

RE: Building a Dynaflite Super Decathlon
If you take a look at the Zenoah manual for the magneto ignition engines, you'll see they are very particular about the position of the prop relative to the magnerts on the flywheel, particularily for hand starting. Zenoah suggests that if you don't postion it properly, it will never start since you won't get the correct spark. I've also heard that you need to have the prop rotating at a rate of about 600 rpm to generate sufficient spark. On my G-62 I use a recoil sping starter and it takes about 3-4 flips withthat to run. The first 2-3 are with choke on to get fuel into the cylinder and have it fire. The next is with choke off and it runs. Reports that I've heard about the G-38 are generally the same. Some though report great succes in hand starting without the recoil spring starter. Earlier on in the discussion, you'll see that people are using the G-38 with great success in the Super Decathlon.
Posted on: 9/18/2012 4:35 PM by Author "do335a" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11232837

RE: Building a Dynaflite Super Decathlon
[quote]ORIGINAL: WILDCRASHWILLY Thank you Zor, As you may have read, I've had issues with the Monocoat. As a result, I'm ripping the Monocoat off and going back with the Ultracoat that I have never had an issue with. Unfortunately I'm removing the green and yellow as it has not cooperated. I'm going back with the blue with white stars. Early on, you recommended I should try cloth. I didn't because I was unfamiliar with it. I should have listened to you and tried it. If the bottom had been less successful, I would strip it all and do the cloth now but I'm trying to salvage some invested time at this point. Glad your sailplane has worked out. [/quote] wildcrashwilly, that's a riot for me reading what you said here. I'm a confirmed doper from the beginning of time. Hate that plastic stuff, no matter what the brand. When I first did my Super Decathlon, it was naturally fabric covered. Then I started painting and can't believe for the life of me that it got screwed up beyond salvage. Tore everything off - probably about a hundred bucks or so of materials at that stage - and put on Ultracote, with great success. Well, let's just say as successful as plastic can be compared to fabric and dope. Complete opposite of your experience. Mind you, I still think that the fabric and dope is superior. All the best with your fix.
Posted on: 9/12/2012 1:31 PM by Author "do335a" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11226434

RE: Its Official... I Ordered a Kit
The Sig Kadet MK II is a very easy, quick build. It's also a very good trainer flyer. You assemble the fuselage sides right on the printed side sheets, which are clearly market for locations of all the bits and pieces. Several years ago, a friend told me that he and several of his fellow flyers would build these planes in a weekend and use them for simple racing. The simplicity, quickness and ruggedness of the build are what inspirded them. Equally inspired, or challenged, when the time came to buld a trainer for another firend, I chose the Kadet MK II and took up the weekend building challenge, Started on a Fiday evening. By Sunday, it was done. Given my fanatic building style, where everything must fit perfectly or be adjusted, that was quite a pleasant surprise. Now, some 20 years later, I've started using that plane with total success. Never cashed or hard landed. Still as good as the day it was built. You should enjoy both the build and the finished plane. Here's a pic. Power is an HP GOld Cup 40. Radio is a Futaba 9CAPS with S3004 servs. [image]http://i467.photobucket.com/albums/rr33/ralphieboy/IMG_3066.jpg[/image]
Posted on: 8/19/2012 8:41 AM by Author "do335a" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11198634

RE: TROY BUILT MODELS
You can't win on shipping these days. It just gets higher and higher. It's much worse when you send that stuff across your border into Canada. The rates you guys are talking about are quite low compared to the international stuff. Doesn't matter if it's through UPS or the USPS. Don't forget that you also have that dimensional weight calculation, which is a way of cranking up the rate for whatever size box that you have by assigning an artificially higher weight to it to increase your charges. Here, in Ontario, we also have the privilege of being able to bend over one more time and pay 13% tax on top of the shipping charge.
Posted on: 8/10/2012 2:40 PM by Author "do335a" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11186373

RE: Sig 1/4scale C/W Cub build
You'll be OK as long as everything is well secured, controls move in the correct directions and your CG is set properly. These things just about fly themselves. I had a student doing loops on his first RC flight ever with mine. My first flight on floats with it had a dead stick and the plane landed itself in choppy seas - perfectly, I just pointed it into the wind and let it go, free flight, so to speak.
Posted on: 8/1/2012 12:07 PM by Author "do335a" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11177402

RE: Maybe the Tower Hype is True?
My experience with them has been hit and miss. On chickensh-t stuff, no problem. On big bucks items, hung out to dry. Had a new 1/3 size Christen Eagle ordered through my LHS. Every part was damaged. Took over an entire year to get a replacement. The replacement came with a damaged cowl. Took over another month to correct that. Big joke to Tower. Had a Giant Aeromster ARF. Came with damaged wings. Their response, "So?". Told me that's the way it was and if I wanted to send it back at my expense I could, knowing that was not likely. I'd then have as much lost in shipping to Canada and the return to USA as the cost of the plane with nothing to show for it. Big joke to Tower. Yeh, they'll fix things alright, as long as it's the small stuff. Being reasonable made not dfifference. It's as though that was seen as a excuse to push you for what they put over on you. Horizon has done better fixing errors. And best I've ever experienced is Sig, bar none.
Posted on: 7/28/2012 12:56 PM by Author "do335a" in the forum "The Clubhouse"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11172361

RE: Is China getting expensive?
I'm in Canada. Makes no difference to me if the crappy stuff comes from China, USA or anywhere else for that matter. Not even crap comes from Canada. There is nothing in this hobby that is domestic for us - engines, radios, accessories and planes except for a small, insignificant number of kits. So I'll take best wherever I can get it. I know that I'm much better off in the long run like that. Fewer examples of defective merchandise. Fewer repairs. Fewer warranty claims which are never honored on model stuff anyway (Warranty lasts as long as you want - until you use it. Then it instantly expires immediately prior to that point.). Makes no difference to me if it comes from the USA or elsewhere. There's no benefit here in making certain that the origin is the USA. Unfortunately, the "buy the lowest price" item is the way it generally works here too, as the cheapies are always looking for something which they didn't pay for. Never accepting that you don't get what you didn't pay for, that latest new look, shiny item gets the nod in most cases and definitely so if it's in the cheapo price range. Cosmetics cover a host of sins when it comes to selling. In the case of the K&B, although it may be purchased for less than some of those flashy imports, the appearance makes it look as though competitively it doesn't deliver the goods. MECOA can fix that by giving it a facelift and pricing it with the competitors. You will never convey the impression of equality by looking shabby and being too low a perceived price for what is promised. You will get left in the dust. If you are great and at the top end in price as well, you'd better be certain that there is a large enough market to support you. Take Webra as an example. Had lots of them. Like them a lot. Been much better than any other glow engines I've ever had. Top end in price too. So where are they now? Insufficient supporters to sustain production. Gotta get them buyers to believe the dream - the hype, the myth, the promise. BMW started as a producer of ratbag cars by an unknown, dinky company (Do you remember things like the 1600 in the 1960's?). Took years to go upmarket. I can assure you though that they break just a easily and frequently as any other. The car business exists on service and repairs, not sales. Some may claim otherwise, however, that's how all car companies work at the dealership level.
Posted on: 7/14/2012 2:56 PM by Author "do335a" in the forum "The Clubhouse"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11155271

RE: IS THIS ENGINE TOAST?
[quote]ORIGINAL: SrTelemaster150 [quote]ORIGINAL: dogshome It is cosmetic. You could dremel it smooth if you feel the need, but it really isn't going to affect performance. [/quote] Why bother? Nobody is going to see it anyway once the engine is assembled. [/quote] It's got nothing to with the cosmetics of a concealed appearance. You get stress points at sharp edges and could easily lose another piece while running, with catastrophic consequences.
Posted on: 7/14/2012 2:08 PM by Author "do335a" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11155212

RE: Why don't we have more 4 stroke gassers?
[quote]ORIGINAL: TimBle surely the point of a bicycle is to pedal.... [/quote] True. And the point of a bicycle with a gasoline engine on it is to avoid pedalling, inusrance, licenesing, high fuel costs, parking problems and that sort of thing.
Posted on: 7/14/2012 4:47 AM by Author "do335a" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11154688

RE: Blatant censorship on this forum
[i][b]"I was sad to see my recent thread deleted. It may not have shown jet modelling in a good light,"[/b][/i] This has nothing to do with modelling. It's about a misguided, deluded moron who does not understand modelling at all. He has no clue about the operational considerations and limitations of RC jet models. So much for his physics studies. [i][b]"but it was factual. It was reported by Reuters, a well respected news agency"[/b][/i] Reuters. Big deal. Well respected by whom? And so what? That and 5 bucks will get you a cup of coffee. [i][b]"& was of interest."[/b][/i] Interest to whom? [i][b]"I never thought that RC Universe was in the business of trying to hide the truth & deny freedom of speech. I was obviously so wrong. My eyes have been opened by this blatant censorship."[/b][/i] It's their gate. If you don't like it, don't swing on it. They decide what postings stay and which go. You have no say. It's their show. Nothing of interest in that item for this community. Nothing has been denied or hidden by RCU removing your post. RCU has not suppressed Reuters' report or Google's reference to it. [i][b]"So much for land of the free."[/b][/i] Cyprus, you say? Land of the free? You ain't even anywhere near the USA if that's the place you mean. Got nothing to do with you what they do there. [i][b]"I did not get as much as an explanation for its removal."[/b][/i] You are owed nothing. And that's what you got. Doesn't mean I agree or disagree. That's just the way it is.
Posted on: 7/11/2012 6:31 AM by Author "do335a" in the forum "RC Jets"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11151204

RE: how to remove engine stain please????????
[quote]ORIGINAL: Altered1 Hey, I'm not trying to slap you down, but there is a search button in the top right of the page that allows you to search this thread.  I typed in the word ''cleaning'', and hey presto!  30 posts, with 10 pages behind it all discussing how to clean glow engines. [/quote] Tried your suggestion. Unfortunately, neither it nor you wint the cigar. Here's what came up: RE: It's been a while.... I was wondering how much this truck would be worth operational? The only stock parts are the diffs, tranny, drive shafts, and I think this chassis is a stock one with the anodizing removed... I'm thinking about cleaning it up and taking it t a lhs and trying to see what they would give me on trade for a revo... Also I have some questions on getting this truck running right. The ez start Posted on: 6/20/2012 9:09 AM by Author "bstrang6" in the forum "Traxxas Monster Truck forum" http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11125168 Even with my severely limited English reading comprehension, I can easily determine that this has nothing to do with cleaning glow engines. What went wrong?
Posted on: 7/6/2012 8:13 PM by Author "do335a" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11146015

RE: Big jump in kit prices at Tower
[quote]ORIGINAL: stoneenforcer previous margins were to low to support the current lower market volume. related and non rc related mfg's and distributors have raised pricing to stay alive. take it or leave it. [/quote] Maybe. But we don't need to buy any of this stuff. Let's see how long any seller lasts with nobody to buy his stuff. That's a reason why lots of great ideas don't turn into businesses or fail. Nobody to buy the stuff. Funny thing, isn't that what's happening now with RIM and the Blackberry? Nobody buying it. Raise the price some more to make up for lost sales. See how many fewer you sell.
Posted on: 7/6/2012 5:52 AM by Author "do335a" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11145067

RE: Taylorcraft crash
[quote]ORIGINAL: comanche260c so you are telling me i have to check all there designs. And I have to eat it because they hire  poopy designers that  dont  have a brain that functions well ??? [/quote] Absolutely. It's just another BARF. When will you guys ever learn? BARF=rubbish. There is not one in the world that can be put into service without re-engineering and rebuilding prior to use if you want to prevent this sort of thing. Would you accept that kind of crap when you purchase a new (take your pick, other than a BARF)? I doubt it. So why do you keep buying these things? As long as you do., that's the level of quality that you'll get. Live and learn. BARFs are built to a price - to generate a profit. That means leaving things out and doing things on the cheap to maximize profits. And you, the unwitting consumer, loses. So sad, too bad.
Posted on: 7/6/2012 5:29 AM by Author "do335a" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11145035

RE: Sig 1/4scale C/W Cub build
[quote]ORIGINAL: Cub Flyer Fresno This may be a bit premature, but when I do finally finish my Cub, say in a year or so, what would be a good second scale build for me to attempt?  I know everyone is going to have there opinions, but have at it!  I might have to take money into consideration though, this becomes a bit more expensive than one realizes!  I might want to go smaller as well to keep peace with the Mrs.  I love BIG though, no doubt about that! So, any ideas? Take care, David [/quote] Here's an idea, based on countless years as a builder/accumulator of anything and everything related to model aircraft and RC and observing many, many ohters with the same situation as you. Start stashing funds never to be touched until you make your purchase whenever it is. Finish the current project first and be prepared financially for the next one. Don't worry about getting anything in particular now. It's amazing how one's interestes and situation can change within a year or even less, which makes an early purchase in preparation obsolete and expensive in a big hurry. That's one of the big reasons that you find all sorts of deals coming up on NIB kits, planes, engines and accessories in the classifieds, on ebay and so on. It's very easy to lose big time $$ that way. You, on the other hand, not being in a hurry, cash in to your benefit. If you've just got to have it now, some year ot two in advance, it had better be a bargain, better than the most fantastic deal ever. In the meantime, dream all you want about what that project will be. When you are finally ready to begin, it will all fall into place.
Posted on: 6/28/2012 6:05 AM by Author "do335a" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11134934

RE: How to handle the guys with flawed plans?
[quote]ORIGINAL: Chucksolo69 I don't understand why so many of you guys think it is impossible to teach yourself to fly? [/quote] The reason is quite simple. It is impossible to teach yourself anything. You may learn by yourself, but you don't teach yourself. In order to teach, it is necessay that the teacher know more than the student and it's impossible when you are the student to know more than you know. The teacher is way ahead of you and already knows what you are trying to learn. As for me, being the ignoramous that I was,I actually attended school and even paid tuition. Never did know everything on my own and realized that there were a lot of much smarter people than me who had valuable info to pass on and brind to my atttention, as well as the ability to explain and present things in different ways to help my learning. You can't do any of that for yourself. You are simply a learner, not a teacher. Self-taught does not exist.
Posted on: 6/21/2012 2:52 PM by Author "do335a" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11126970

RE: Dx8 still has problems
I have yet to see an electronic device which is not subject to either total or intermitent failure. How can you guys say that it is impossible for a TX to fail? Even computers in manned spacecraft have failed. So have electronic instruments and ignitions in automobiles, computer hard drives, TVs, stero systems, electronic cameras and whatever other electronic device you care to pick, except the radio control aircraft transmitter according to what I've read here. What makes it so special that it's immune to failure?
Posted on: 6/15/2012 2:39 PM by Author "do335a" in the forum "RC Radios, Transmitters, Receivers, Servos, gyros"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11119518

RE: Why not transport your fully assembled aircraft to the field?
It's a great system for exhibitionists. What are you gaining by doing the assembly prior to arriving at your field? What's the point of risking your plane to damage from debris, sliding into the cab or tailgate, bouncing out of the box or otherwise being wrecked by doing this?
Posted on: 6/15/2012 2:31 PM by Author "do335a" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11119510

RE: Interesting experience with Tower Hobbies
Does not matter who the retailer is. Sometimes it works out well and other times it doesn't. Bought a GP 1/3 Christen Eagle ARF through my LHS a few years ago., Virtually every part was damaged when it arrived. I called Tower and they acted as though I was the biggest scammer in the universe. Took over a full year to get that sorted out. With the replacement parts (all old stuff returned), came another defective cowl. Took a couple more months to get that sorted out. Got a Giant Aeromaster ARF a couple of years ago. There were a few minor defects which I was not about to question since it was not worth the effort. However, there were many damaged wing ribs. Pieces fell out of the wings when I took them out of the box. Called them about it and they could not have cared less. Basically, hung me out to dry. Had a hinge sloting machine. It went up in smoke with a giant flash when plugged in while still quite new. Hung out to dry on that one too. Tossed it, switched to Robart hinge points and haven't looked back. They once shipped a couple of boat prop shafts - value about 5 bucks - in error. Called them up and they wondered what I was talking about. They had put the correct item on my invoice and picked the wrong part. They shipped out the right stuff. When I asked if they wanted the wrong stuff back, they said to just trash them. On balance, whenever there has been an issue, they have failed. With that track record, I prefer instances where there are no snags.
Posted on: 6/15/2012 2:01 PM by Author "do335a" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11119476

RE: Sig 1/4scale C/W Cub build
[quote]ORIGINAL: bikerbc I am building a BUSA J3 1/4 Cub Rite now and I have been watching this thread picking up tips...Our club had a float fly over the last week and I got the deal of a life time..I picked up a brand new Sig 1/4 scale Cub with a OS Max 120 Four stroke in it with all the servos etc. for $250.00  ...All I need to do is put my reciever and a battery in and it ready to go...I actually like it better than my BUSA Cub because it is way easier to put together...I am going to do some mods to the BUSA kit so that it will be a little more user friendly...I still cant believe my luck...I also got a set of foam floats with all the rigging. I have to go pick the floats up at my buddys place but thats a good excuse for a visit and a fly at different field...I am not sure of the throws or the C of G  as I didn't get the plans or the manual..I Have gone with 4 3/8'' back from the Leading edge and 1 3/8'' up and down on the elevator , 1 3/4'' left and rite on the rudder and 1'' up and down on the ailerons ..   I  have put 30% mix in rudder and aileron just to start ,  I am not really sure how well the OS Max 120 will power this plane ..It feels fairly lite..Its a brand new motor so I will need to break it in..I think it has had two tanks thru it...Any advice for me? Things to watch out for before I maiden ...I  am flying off wheels to start with...I am familiar with Cubs..[/quote] Biker, first thing to do is edit your post to get rid of that giant empty space which takes up about 10 million pages. Next, go to the Sig website and download the manual and the set up details for your Cub. It's hard to locate on their site, so here's a link to the right spot: http://www.sigmfg.com/cgi-bin/dpsmart.exe/MainMenuFV5.html?E+Sig
Posted on: 6/5/2012 6:44 PM by Author "do335a" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11108018

RE: Building a Dynaflite Super Decathlon
You must have missed that part where a while ago I mentioned that my Dynaflite Super Dud came in at 17 pounds - way under your projected weight of 20lbs. and more than 10% less than the weight of orthobird's plane. There was no extra weight for balancing in mine. Being that porky, to me, it flew lousy. 20lbs is a lot of weight for that airframe. The control surfaces are also a bit small to toss around such a blimp with much authority. It sort of wallowed and plowed through the air unresponsively. My ST3000 was not enough to save it. However, you may like the way it flys. If we personally like the way they fly, we proclaim them to be great flyers. If we don't like the way they fly, we call them dogs. It's a matter of personal taste. Don't forget that there is no way in all creation that the weak stock landing legs gear will carry that much load. The flimsy as designed lite ply base for the gear legs will also be hard pressed to not fail with anything but a gentle landing with that weight. You may also run into a snag with required prop size and available ground clearance with a 40cc gas engine. I solved that problem by using 5" diameter tundra tires.
Posted on: 6/4/2012 11:44 AM by Author "do335a" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11106098

RE: NEW BUSA 1/3rd Scale Fokker Triplane!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
[quote]ORIGINAL: jtisch PS: do335a, Do you have Bonzo plans? I remember there being a Buster, but not a Bonzo. I like the Bonzo. [/quote] jtisch, now that you mention it, that could be a mistake on my part. Perhaps it actually was Buster. in any case, I gave them away for free a couple of months ago to a chap in our Club who built the Berkeley (Effinger's company) kit version at 1/4 size
Posted on: 5/27/2012 7:42 AM by Author "do335a" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11096137

RE: Building a Dynaflite Super Decathlon
[quote]ORIGINAL: mikem99 To futabaflyer83 What is the ''BEST'' setup?? To me it is the setup that will reliably cause the engine to stop, whether on the ground or in the air. [/quote] Absolutely correct. What you need is a positive way of cutting the ignition and stopping the engine, right now. Full choke is not the solution. When we all got started with the giant scale activity with the formation of IMAA, several decades ago, this was not even a question. Any plane at any event without a positive ignition kill did not fly. Now there are lots of people getting involved who do not have a good grasp of fundamental issues and requirements. Some have absolutely no way of stopping their engines, whether gas or glow. Bottom line: Is the opto kill switch worth the extra cost and effort for installation? You bet your ass it is.
Posted on: 5/24/2012 10:47 AM by Author "do335a" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11093183

RE: Building a Dynaflite Super Decathlon
Crosswind landings (and takeoffs) are no big deal. The objective is to be pointing and going straight down the runway with no sideways drift. Makes no difference if you fly a trike or a taildragger. Whether or not you do it on two wheels or the upwind wheel on a taildragger makes no difference. A taildragger can handle a very stiff crosswind by using more aileron and rudder control with a wheel landing - you land on the mains with the tail high. With a wheel landing, a taildragger can land at very high, slow or in between speed. With a stall landing, it will be tail low and ideally, will stall just as the tailwheel touches dowwn, followed immediately by the main gear. Here's what you need to know: 1. tailwheel pilots live in a cross controlled world - opposite rudder and aileron inputs - because there is virtually always a crosswind on landing or takeoff. And we don't want any of those expensive ground loops. 2. it's aileron into the wind to prevent sideways drift. 3. it's opposite rudder to keep nose straight down the runway. Comes from several hundred hours of full size taildragger flying. The joke is that there are those who have ground looped and those who are about to. You actually want to be in a third group who never has and never will. One picky point "...the model can have a final approach in line with the runway (or intended line of landing) and use side slipping while the nose and landing gear are pointing to the touch down." That's actually a forward slip - the nose of the airplane is moving along the line of forward motion. In a side slip, the side of the airplane is moving along the line of forward motion. The extra drag of the side slip will also cause you to lose altitude in a big, big hurry. And Zor is absolutley correct. Practice. Practice. Practice. The more you do it, the easier it becomes until it's automatic.
Posted on: 5/22/2012 8:14 AM by Author "do335a" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11090360

RE: Sig 1/4scale C/W Cub build
[quote]ORIGINAL: VincentJ Pictures of half of a  completed wing.  I used the one inch tape on the leading edge and continued it around the wing tip in one continuous piece to the trailing edge. I tried to place the light in a spot that would highlight the rib stitching and tape. [/quote] FYI, check the pix at this link for rib stitching as well as fabric covering and painting: http://jscott.comlu.com/Cub/fabric/Fabric.html You will see that stitching does not go through the solid leading edge cover. No need for it there. The reason for stitching is to hold the fabric to the rib while in flight. The rib is underneath the LE covering, to which the fabric is shrunk and glued. Won't lift there as it will on the ribs.
Posted on: 5/18/2012 6:24 AM by Author "do335a" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11085572

RE: AMA in CANADA
[quote]ORIGINAL: Vettster Hi Gents.. I would like a to ask a couple of questions if I may. Can Canadians join AMA If we can be members of AMA, are we aloud to fly in Canada. Thats all for now. Thanks [/quote] Trevor, for many years I belonged to both AMA and MAAC simultaneously. The big benefit with AMA was that it made things very simple to fly when attending any US events. Did not need to show the CDs that MAAC membership was recognized for insurance purposes there. A second benefit was the first rate magazine which AMA puts out. A third benefit was that it was good for my hobby business to an active member of both organizations. You may run into a snag with MAAC since they like to keep a closed shop and may have some sort of provision whereby if you want to maintain your club recognition with them that AMA membership for insurance purposes for a substiute will not be accepted. Best check with MAAC.
Posted on: 5/16/2012 1:52 PM by Author "do335a" in the forum "AMA Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11083361

RE: What is up with this new engine???
[quote]ORIGINAL: SrTelemaster150 IMO going from ignition to glow is a giant step backwards. [/quote] Interestingly enough, that's exactly what the model engine manufacturers said about going back to ignition from glow when glow engines were introduced to replace spark ignition engines.
Posted on: 5/8/2012 5:48 PM by Author "do335a" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11073565

RE: NEW BUSA 1/3rd Scale Fokker Triplane!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Back in the day, when Bill was still with us, I got copies of two of his plans - a 1/3 J-3 Cub and a 1/3 Bonzo. They were somewhat crude and shall we say presented quite a challenge if you were to use them to attempt an actual construction project. Also picked up a set of the Scratch-A-Plane 1/4 size Nieuport 17 drawings. They look to be better.
Posted on: 4/28/2012 12:34 PM by Author "do335a" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11060328

RE: Building a Dynaflite Super Decathlon
[quote]ORIGINAL: lamarkeiko <span style=''font-size: larger; ''><span style=''font-family: 'Comic Sans MS'; ''> How does the static thrust compare between those two engines? Lamar [/quote] It will depend on the prop you use. Do not expect to necessarily get the same thrust from an identical prop on each engine. You'll probably find that optimum results with each engine require a different prop, that is, one optimized to the engine and its characteristics.
Posted on: 4/26/2012 7:59 PM by Author "do335a" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11058480

RE: Monokote....Never Again
A couple of years ago I had the misfortune of buying a new giant scale Christen Eagle ARF from Hobbico/Tower through my LHS. The covering was terrible. I was so dejected that I sold the plane. I was not about to try to fix it. A prune looked better. When I got it originally, virtually every piece including the FG parts were damaged. This was not a scratch and dent. Took over a year to get it replaced and all the replacement parts also had serious wrinkling and a few damage problems. Not having learned my lesson, I got one of the Giant Aeromaster ARFs when they went on sale. Same problem with the covering and a few of the pieces - smashed wing ribs. I thought, no big deal. It'll cost more to return the wings than the cost of the entire kit. Guess all that Tower crap stinks. So I tried shrinking the covering. That's when I learned what a sucker I was. On one side of the fuselage, the MonoKote cracked and ripped as the plane was just sitting on the bench. That was prior to shrinking. After several hours carefully shrinking, the next morning it looked as though nothing had been done. This happened two more times. On one try, I found out how easy it is to blow a hole in the stuff. My solution was to just leave it like it was, wrinkles, poor fit and all with Ultracote patches over the holes. The problem I now have though is that my latest project calls for a color which is available in only Monokote. So against my better judgement, I've ordered the stuff and will give it one more try. When you hear the wailing all the way to wherever you are, I'll agree when all you guys say, "I told you so!"
Posted on: 4/13/2012 7:58 PM by Author "do335a" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11040991