RE: enya
Scroll down on [link=http://www.enya-engine.com/ListAP2CYL_E.html]this[/link] page to your engine and you'll see a link to the parts list. This is direct to the Enya factory in Japan and they're very easy to deal with and fast delivery.
Posted on: 11/19/2009 10:08 PM by Author "downunder" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9266495

RE: Glow Plug Temperatures
If a glow plug was only needed to get the engine started then the coil could be made from any kind of wire. Instead, it's made from platinum (which is a horribly expensive metal) alloyed with something like rhodium or iridium which just gives strength to the coil, the platinum is the important part. Under the right conditions, like when the platinum is hot, it starts a catalytic reaction with the methanol vapours which ignites the rest of the mixture and pumps some heat back into the coil getting it ready to fire the next time. This is exactly the same kind of reaction that happens in a catalytic reactor fitted to a car's exhaust pipe. It's filled with platinum wire too but it doesn't work until the engine has been running for a little while to get it all hot, we use a battery to pre-heat the platinum. With a glow plug it's not just the temperature of the coil that ignites the mixture, there are several other things that determine just when the mixture will ignite and it's the combination of all these things that determine the ignition point.
Posted on: 11/18/2009 8:40 PM by Author "downunder" in the forum "Car Nitro & Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9264054

RE: no cooling head in cooler weather?
I'll back that up about not needing nitro (unless you're into serious racing). I've been mixing my own fuel for....oh, let's just say a very long time :) ...and I've never used nitro. My son has been making the exact same fuel for his car since he got into it a few years ago and it works great even in racing although with a much raised compression. Another poster on RCU (from Denmark) is now racing with zero nitro and doing very well. Making your own fuel is so simple it's ridiculous :). The hardest part is finding the cheapest supplier because all you need is methanol and a good oil. Then it's just a matter of mixing them together in the right proportions, give it a good shake and it's all done. With zero nitro it's not necessary to modify the engine but they will give more power if the compression is raised by more than can be done by just removing shims. Ideally you need to aim for about 13.5:1 but that involves maching the head button.
Posted on: 11/4/2009 8:33 AM by Author "downunder" in the forum "Car Nitro & Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9227236

RE: no cooling head in cooler weather?
[quote]ORIGINAL: theRCreverend I ran it a little more rich to be safe (running 0% fuel with about 10% castor).  [/quote] I'd suggest upping the oil content to about 15% if you're not using any nitro because fuel consumption is much lower than with relatively high (~25%) nitro fuels. Lower fuel consumption also means lower oil flow through the engine.
Posted on: 11/2/2009 11:21 PM by Author "downunder" in the forum "Car Nitro & Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9224064

RE: Super Tigre G-51
That info is also buried in the ST instruction sheet as below.
Posted on: 10/30/2009 9:04 PM by Author "downunder" in the forum "Tachometer Readings"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9216370

RE: Piston Carnage!! Stupid Glo-Plug!
Well you already know you blew the plug with 12 volts and what's happened is that a molten blob fell on top of the piston and got caught in one of the ports for a moment. The top row right hand photo of the piston crown clearly shows a round indent just above the grooved part and there's a hint of another indent a little further around as well. It appears the groove might be at the edge of the transfer port which would be how the blob ended up down in the crankcase. Pinch won't be affected by that groove but there's sure to be a little compression leakage and blowby from combustion. How much though is a matter of try and see so I'd do what others have suggested and just put it back together and see how well it runs. To give it a fighting chance though I'd suggest adding some castor to the fuel which will help seal off that groove somewhat. With the power panel you could always use a spare banana plug to block one of the 12 volt outlets instead of epoxy because you might want to use it one day. Or read the labels :D. If you go to a different brand/heat range of plug then always set the panel with the plug out of the engine first to get the correct setting (I aim for a brightish orange) and note the position of the needle on the dial for that plug. The power panel actually feeds 12 volts to the plug but it switches it on and off very quickly, that's the buzzing sound you can hear. The adjusting knob just changes the rate the power is on and off.
Posted on: 10/30/2009 8:57 PM by Author "downunder" in the forum "Car Nitro & Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9216358

RE: Super Tigre prices appear to be heading up
[quote]ORIGINAL: bigedmustafa I've read posts where G-51 owners describe running 12x5, 12x6, and even 13x4 props. The GS-45 ABC wouldn't perform very well with any of those sizes. [/quote] The normal prop I use on my G51 is a 12x5 but it's the CL version so I've never peaked it out. However just for fun one day I put a 13x6 prop on 3 different engines including a GS-45, the others were an early Moki M5 (.60) and an Enya 60-IIIB. The latter two are designed more for big props. The Moki turned the prop at 8200, the Enya at 8600 and the GS-45 at 9100. That rather surprised me but it wasn't really comparing apples to apples because the ST had a far larger carb area than the other two with CL venturis.
Posted on: 10/28/2009 10:16 PM by Author "downunder" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9210990

RE: Fox problem
I've played around with a couple of engines (not my own :)) that had a similar feel around mid stroke and the problem turned out to be a bent rod which was relatively easy to straighten.
Posted on: 10/28/2009 9:58 PM by Author "downunder" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9210919

RE: Question about K5.9 Blow out
By all accounts (and a few tests that have been done) Byron mix their fuel by weight and not by volume as it should be done. What this means is that the 12% oil (by weight) is the same as 10% by volume. Personally I don't think car fuels have enough oil in them for long engine life (and adding oil [b]doesn't[/b] reduce power). Adding 7.5 ounces of oil to a gallon of [b]Byron[/b] fuel would bring it up to 15% by volume which would be the bare minimum I'd use. Sig castor is available at most hobby shops, medicinal castor is ok but it's very expensive. As for the fuel I run, well I fly planes but my son races a car. We both use exactly the same fuel which is 20% all castor and no nitro. Which means that neither of us have any "nitro" engines, we have glow engines :D.
Posted on: 10/28/2009 9:37 PM by Author "downunder" in the forum "Car Nitro & Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9210848

RE: Question about K5.9 Blow out
It's a bit unusual for a rod to break up near the piston but that area can get extremely hot especially if the mixture is a bit too lean. As far as oil content goes, a bit too much never killed an engine but a bit too little can be very bad. Castor is just castor oil that gets squeezed out of the castor bean and for a very long time it was the only oil used in model engines. There are some (me included :)) that will only ever use all castor in fuels but even a small amount gives added protection against a lean run plus it's a perfect anti rusting oil. Most manufacturers offer a blend of castor/synthetic oils in their fuels.
Posted on: 10/28/2009 10:25 AM by Author "downunder" in the forum "Car Nitro & Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9208950

RE: Anyone familiar with CS engines?
[quote]ORIGINAL: j.duncker If you want an Olly rep look here http://www.smrpl.com.au/_engines.htm [/quote] Agreed, these are taking Australia by storm and about the only engine used in competitions here nowadays. However the original Ollies are now back in production again in England, mostly Mk 3 and 4's, Cub and a miniature Tiger.
Posted on: 10/27/2009 10:15 PM by Author "downunder" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9207872

RE: Question about K5.9 Blow out
It looks like you've thrown a rod. The usual cause is too many revs or too little oil in the fuel....or both :). Too many revs overstresses the rod causing a fatigue failure while too little oil generally means the lower rod bush seizes on the crankpin, the bush then spins inside the rod which overheats the alloy and it bends and snaps. My guess is too little oil and no castor. Castor is wonderful stuff for lubricating high load plain bearings.
Posted on: 10/27/2009 10:02 PM by Author "downunder" in the forum "Car Nitro & Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9207821

RE: Glow Plugs for RC and non-RC Engines ?
Without seeing a photo of the RC plug, and kind of what I think Jim was implying, I'd suspect the RC plug was an idle bar plug and most likely be a hot rating too. AFAIK all engines back then used a baffled piston and didn't have mufflers either which pretty much dictated that a special plug was needed to help keep them running reliably at idle. With CL engines being dominant back then (and of course always running flat out) different heat ranges were made for the various sizes. The most interesting plug in that group was the plug for FAI fuel and 2.5cc which would have been specific for their Rossi .15 in CL speed and FF power.
Posted on: 10/27/2009 9:49 PM by Author "downunder" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9207771

RE: Plug temperature
[quote]ORIGINAL: NikolayTT A question: - How Hot are the Non-RC plugs when compared to the RC types ? [/quote] There aren't any non-RC plugs, actually there aren't any RC plugs either....there's just glow plugs :). Choosing a plug for an unthrottled engine is much the same as choosing one for an RC engine, apart from not having to worry about how it idles or transitions. Although come to think of it, I guess you could say they transition from not running to flat out as soon as you give them a flick. Most of the time you can barely detect the time it takes to reach full speed :). My favourite plug for engines that I run 4 stroking rich is the Taipan red (hot) plug. There's no discernible rev drop when the glow igniter is removed. This is with zero nitro fuel so it could possibly be too hot for nitro.
Posted on: 10/25/2009 10:55 AM by Author "downunder" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9200445

RE: A WORD OF WARNING ABOUT OFF BRANDED ENGINES
Here's an example of a truly "off brand" engine, a Stass's .42 RE I picked up brand new a few months ago. It came with a CL venturi (apparently the RE version is only for CL) but no needle valve so I fitted an Enya needle valve. The pinch on this thing was truly incredible, tighter than anything else I've ever felt, in fact I had extreme trouble just getting it to flick through the pinch. But here's the rub, it's not an ABC but a plain old cast iron piston so there was no point trying to heat up the cylinder before starting it. It took some doing but I finally managed to get it running (using an electric finger, oh the shame :() and very rich seeing it's a lapped engine and with lots of castor. Every time it stopped (at full throttle of course seeing it's CL) the piston would wedge into the pinch and I'd have to force it backwards to free it. I was starting to hate it and wondered if I was about to prove the story about breaking rods because of an extreme pinch that can't change from heating up, not to mention the very rich running :). After about an hour it started to free up to a point I could hand start it and it's getting better and better. Now I've begun to really like this thing even though the castings are absolutely awful and who knows how long it'll last. With a bit more running (it's done 100 minutes so far) I'll take it into a 2 stroke, the most I've done is go to the point it's switching between a 4 and 2 stroke at 11,900 revs with an 11x4 prop and then I'll have a go at tuning the pipe. As for the story about breaking rods in the pinch, it didn't break and no discernible wear whatsoever in the bushes. Sometimes what seems to be a heap of junk turns out to be rather nice :)
Posted on: 10/24/2009 7:47 PM by Author "downunder" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9199202

RE: Plug temperature
[quote]ORIGINAL: DarZeelon .... I suppose you are one of those people, who believe anyone who disagrees with what they write, is automatically wrong... [/quote] To borrow a phrase often used in another forum.....Irony meter pegged! How do you know exactly what he meant by "rich"? It's a known fact, although apparently not to you, that methanol, and particularly nitro, have a wide range of air/fuel ratio where they both deliver high power. So he likes to run it rich...more fuel to give more internal cooling to increase the density of the air in the crankcase which in turn will add some power. Works for me. Making the engine cooler than ideal? Tell me what the ideal temperature is. Cooler than "ideal" eventually causing wear to increase? Why eventually? It either increases or it doesn't. How come I can run an engine in a 4 stroke and it'll last practically forever? It seems you don't know that there's very little difference in temperature from even the 4-2 break point to slightly rich of full peak.
Posted on: 10/24/2009 11:08 AM by Author "downunder" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9197192

RE: Want to freshen a World Engines Brat .25
[quote]ORIGINAL: jeffie8696 I believe you will find that K&B Sportsters are also AAC. I like the AAC engines personaly. [/quote] In a manner of speaking they are except the other way round to the usual by having no liner and running a chrome plated alloy piston direct in the alloy crankcase. From what I've read anyway, I've never even seen one because they don't seem to be sold in Australia.
Posted on: 10/23/2009 10:35 AM by Author "downunder" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9195814

RE: Want to freshen a World Engines Brat .25
I have the Bluebird (Brat) 28 and 51 although the 51 is ABC and not AAC. Both of them I picked up new from Ebay (at good prices too :)) and I couldn't be happier with them. I'm kind of impressed that they all, except the 51, use AAC because AFAIK the only other mass produced engine to use AAC is Enya.
Posted on: 10/22/2009 9:32 PM by Author "downunder" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9194701

RE: Can I run my buggy on that > ?
[link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_3219478/mpage_1/key_/tm.htm]Here's[/link] a thread on E85 in the fuel section. Go to post #24 for the start of some good information from someone who's using it. Nitromethane in countries outside of America is usually either very expensive or illegal but glow engines work very well without any nitro in the fuel which is why they're [b]not[/b] nitro engines :). My son races his car using just methanol and oil and, with a considerably higher compression, it's just as powerful as cars running 25% nitro.
Posted on: 10/22/2009 9:09 PM by Author "downunder" in the forum "Car Nitro & Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9194642

RE: Fuel recepie , opinion needed.
I'm guessing by the amounts of oil you mentioned that you want a 15% oil content. In a litre of fuel that would be 150cc of oil but if you poured 150cc of oil into a litre of methanol then the total volume of fuel would then be 1150cc which would be 13% total oil. If you added 150cc of oil to 850cc of methanol then you'd have that 15% oil in the fuel.
Posted on: 10/18/2009 10:08 PM by Author "downunder" in the forum "RC Fuels"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9183984

RE: Club Enya
The things you find out about Enyas :). The first version of the 09-IV was identical to the III except the exhaust port was on the opposite (normal) side. This was followed by a second version with an enlarged exhaust port but I don't know how much difference there was. Then there was a third version with a single (rear) ball race and a red anodised prop driver.
Posted on: 10/18/2009 9:11 AM by Author "downunder" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9182338

RE: is there a diference
Nearly all plane engines have ballraced crankshafts, only beginner type engines use the bushed crank. The major difference is that car engines are ported for higher revs than the majority of plane engines which are designed to get max HP at around 16,000 revs or so because otherwise the prop needed for higher revs would be too small to fly a plane adequately. Running a plane engine with suitable cooling would go well in something that needs lots of torque.
Posted on: 10/18/2009 8:42 AM by Author "downunder" in the forum "Car Nitro & Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9182271

RE: Info on an Enya needed
The 60X, or 60XF, came out in Oct '74 and the XF-II in early '83. AFAIK the first (XF-I) were all ringed engines then XF-II onwards were AAC although some were ringed. The series type should be stamped on the side of the left hand mount lug the way mine has III stamped on it.
Posted on: 10/16/2009 7:31 AM by Author "downunder" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9177462

RE: 2-stroke port timing
Yep, 180 degrees is excessive and is similar to what's used on 40 pylon racing engines using a full length tuned pipe. Without a pipe their HP is very average. Of the 40 or so of my engines that I've checked the port timings, the highest timed is 168 degrees (Magnum XL 46) where even a car engine was only 166 (Mach 28). On the vibration side of things, I expect it's due to the turbocut in the crankshaft which looks really good but throws the balance out considerably. I know this is a favourite thing for the car guys to do and it certainly looks technical but the crankshaft has to be designed to account for all that metal that's ground out in the first place. Timing of the crankshaft has nothing to do with the balance, other than some very high priced speed engines have an extra counterweight fitted inside the (indexed) spinner to account for the off set material removed from the crank to make the port but in that case it's for 30,000 or so revs.
Posted on: 10/14/2009 8:55 PM by Author "downunder" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9173882

RE: static compression help
Measure the stroke again because it should be closer to 16mm. With the 13mm stroke the engine size comes to 2.6cc (.16 cub inch) but with a 16mm stroke it's 3.22cc (.195 cub inch). Most engines have a very similar bore and stroke. Assuming your engine really is 16mm (bore and stroke) then it's 3.22cc, and I'm going to work in metrics here. The .019" (.48mm) squish clearance gives a volume of near enough 0.1cc which is part of the combustion chamber volume for figuring out the compression ratio. The combustion chamber bowl in the head button will be somewhere fairly close to 0.3cc but this has to be measured quite accurately and that's the hard part :). Now, assuming it comes to 0.3cc you add that squish volume of 0.1cc for a total combustion chamber volume of 0.4cc. To find the compression, add this 0.4cc to the engines swept volume of 3.22cc to get 3.62cc. Now divide that by the combustion chamber volume (3.62/.4) = 9.1 which is the compression ratio. As I said before though, the hard part is measuring the volume of the combustion chamber in the head acurately. If you miss by just .01cc then it'll change the calculated compression by around +- .2 so instead of finding 9.1 it could be anywhere from 8.9 to 9.3 which isn't really drastic but shows how you need to be quite accurate. The only way to do it is by using a syringe graduated to about that .01cc accuracy and carefully filling the combustion chamber until it's dead level with the outer edge of the squish band. Obviously you must have a plug fitted and this will also fill the plug cavity. Some do this by placing a plastic sheet over the head with a small hole in the centre for the syringe needle to go through and with a thin layer of grease to seal the plastic against the edge of the squish band. I made my own "syringe" by using clear plastic tubing with about a 1/16" internal size and calibrating it so I knew exactly how much liquid was in a particular length as I dripped it into the head. With my tubing there's .0256cc for every centimetre it drips out and I watch a reflection off the surface to see when it's full.
Posted on: 10/12/2009 10:09 PM by Author "downunder" in the forum "Car Nitro & Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9168260

RE: UC engines
TowerHobbies sells both the RC and CL G51 for $85 but if you look at the parts list the RC carb costs $40 while the combined needle valve/venturi costs $19. Venturis are easy to make if you have a lathe although you need to know what area to make the bore (taking into account what's blocked by the spray bar). Needle valves OTOH are much more difficult so it's much better to just go buy an ST or similar. Apart from ST, the only other major manufacturer making CL engines is Enya who have a very large range. I don't count OS because they just make a venturi to fit the RC engines and even then they can't make up their minds what size venturi to use so it's pot luck if you get one with a suitable size. OK, so Jett (and Nelson) also make dedicated CL engines but they're not exactly run-of-the-mill :).
Posted on: 10/11/2009 9:28 PM by Author "downunder" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9165047

RE: Enya 40SS RC
G'day Mike The Enya Japan site lists the 40SS as having a plain P/C which means cast iron piston and steel sleeve which means castor :). Cut a narrow strip from one of those rubber fridge magnets and lay it on top of the piston. If it sticks, it's iron.
Posted on: 10/9/2009 11:52 AM by Author "downunder" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9159164

RE: Compression/nitro content
Compression readings using a compression guage are useless other than as a comparison on the same engine using the same guage over a period of time for an indication that it's wearing out. Compression guages have a dead volume which effectively adds to the volume of the combustion chamber so gives a false indication of actual compression ratio. In a car engine this dead volume is of no consequence compared to the size of their combustion chambers but a 60 engine will have a total volume (including squish volume) of close to 1cc. AFAIK there are no charts showing how much nitro can be used at a given compression. The only guide I could give is that I know (from experimenting) that 13.5:1 is ideal for zero nitro and that most engines using nitro have a compression of around 9:1 where they seem to be optimum with about 15% nitro. Some 4 strokes are (I believe) down around 6.5:1 and they run best on 30% nitro. Going by these figures I'd suggest that for 10% nitro a measured (calculated) compression of around 10-11:1 would be close to ideal. These calculated compressions are done by using the swept volume of the engine, not from where the exhaust port closes.
Posted on: 10/8/2009 10:51 PM by Author "downunder" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9158022

RE: UC engines
It's quite possible to use an RC engine with the throttle wired open for most kinds of CL sport flying but when it comes to CL stunt it's a different kettle of fish. With that kind of flying the engine needs to be able to spin quite a large prop at lowish revs (8-9000 or so) and hold those revs through the entire flight with maybe a small break into a 2 stroke during manoeuvres before going back to the steady 4 stroking. This means the engine has to produce most of it's torque at quite low revs and the torque must fall off quite quickly after it reaches its peak. The drop off in torque is what keeps the engine from gaining revs. An RC engine is timed (mainly the exhaust timing) for high HP at high revs which means a torque curve that tends to keep climbing up to maybe 12000+ revs before dropping off. What that means is that if the engine was running at the 8-9000 revs and it gained some revs in a manoeuvre then it also gains torque which spins the prop even faster gaining even more torque etc etc and then we have a runaway in revs because it won't want to slow down. So instead of flying a nice smooth stunter you end up flying what feels like a combat model :). It doesn't take much to turn an RC engine into a good stunt engine. The ST G51 is a perfect example. The only difference between the RC and CL versions, apart from the obvious carb/venturi, is that the cylinder liner has a lower exhaust port timing, dropped from about 74 degrees to 70 degrees. The G51 is a brilliant CL engine, IMO the best value for money you can get. Strangely, it's closely followed by the OS 46LA which has a very good reputation although I've never used one. But when starting from scratch to make a dedicated CL (stunt) engine other things can be done. The cross section of the ports can be made smaller to better suit the lower gas flow because of the lower revs which keeps the speed of the gas flow higher. The main thing though is that weight can be much less than a similar sized RC engine. I have a dedicated CL 60 that weighs 13.5 ounces with muffler although there's also a light weight version as well :).
Posted on: 10/8/2009 10:28 PM by Author "downunder" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9157948

RE: OS 40VF Info
Venturis are available from [link=http://www.clstunt.com/products.htm]SSW[/link] and there's a good post on setting up a 40VF [link=http://www.clstunt.com/htdocs/dc/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=103&topic_id=200223&mesg_id=200223&listing_type=search#200235]here[/link] at post #6. As for which model would suit, just about anything available :). I'm using mine in an overweight (68 ounce) model with 680 sq inch wing and it has no problem at all.
Posted on: 10/6/2009 7:05 PM by Author "downunder" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9152094