RE: Think My Airtronics RDS8000 is DEAD
I hear the repair service through Airtronics is pretty good. Sounds like a heat issue.
Posted on: 6/28/2009 5:25 PM by Author "e-sailpilot86" in the forum "RC Radios, Transmitters, Receivers, Servos, gyros"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8888710

RE: RDS8000: Dual Aileron EPA?? Please Help!
There is no way to adjust the individual servo travel without assigning the slave channel with a mandatory switch. You can use flaperon or spoileron. Endpoints are assumed to be equal for both servos mechanically. I guess it depends on preferences and how advanced the model is. A few servos have dissimilar endpoints and that can be a good reason to either get a more advanced radio or programmable Hitec servos. I was lightly frustrated when I set up my model with dual ailerons on the RDS8000, but I figured my servos were mechanically equal enough that I just set the endpoints, went to differential, and set the 3-point flaperons to zero percent at all 3 settings. I contemplated getting either an RDS8000 or a Futaba 10C, and I figure I really do not have any models that can benefit enough from a 10C, so I stayed conservative and sacrificed a few things that in the past actually got me into some trouble. I have the RDS8000 and couldn't justify the extra $300 plus the expensive receivers, my models simply aren't that advanced. I just don't need it, and I can convert more models to the new band by using the lower end transmitter. I loaded up my 9C with every possible mix I thought I could use on a full house scale glider. Aileron to Rudder, aileron to flap, flap to aileron Crow, flap/spoil variable by setting the sliders or knobs while in flight instead of menus, Dual rates, activation via a switches on almost all of them. Everything was loaded, and I found myself disabling all those excess features for the second flight because it was just too much for my head to manage while flying, I just needed to fly and not think so much. :) On the 3rd flight, the tow plane got radio interference and augured in, and I was able to cut the towline and save my model. My radio setup wasn't as cool, but it probably saved me from being overwhelmed by going easy on the mixing.
Posted on: 6/27/2009 9:54 PM by Author "e-sailpilot86" in the forum "RC Radios, Transmitters, Receivers, Servos, gyros"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8886844

RE: Any
I would say it is highly unlikely you will find an aftermarket product for any spread spectrum radio system. Engineers communicated between each other a lot on those radios that were made and probably designed in China to have cross compatibility. Or both receivers use a common part. The fact is, spread spectrum is much more heavily engineered, there is no standard and probably will not be a standard established (aside from FHSS and DSSS methods) like the 72 MHz band had. 72 MHz modulation was/is fairly easy to follow the standard. 1 to 2 ms pulse width (may be off but close enough) modulation, and a series of pulses making up all the channels, then it resets back to channel 1. Spread Spectrum works similarly with our wireless routers, in that they have to follow FHSS or DSSS, but they have a suggested IEEE standard to follow so other brands can usually communicate with each other okay. Because there is no prime standard for sending out a low bit-rate r/c signal, there may not be an incentive to establish a strong standard.
Posted on: 6/26/2009 10:40 PM by Author "e-sailpilot86" in the forum "RC Radios, Transmitters, Receivers, Servos, gyros"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8884493

RE: Air and Space Magazine
Well, one basic problem with the commercial UAV's being compared to R/C models is where they fly. UAV's fly everywhere. R/C models fly at parks or designated airfields, and you wont (well... should not) see a model flying where ever it wants to go. UAV operators do not make profit by flying over parks and model airplane airfields. Oftentimes they carry several pounds of excess gear that a model simply would not carry. No doubt UAV's could help some areas... but I doubt they will help as much as some would like to think. If you're flying over populated areas for long periods of time, you bet radio gear and flight preparation should be following extra professional guidelines down to a near science, and not for pleasure. I do find it odd that they would have difficulty getting approval for flight testing by the FAA in a deserted area. That might be an FAA problem, but I don't see numbers or values backing up that claim yet. I can understand restricting flights that are autonomous. Nothing beats a person flying a model where they can see every detail of the sky. UAV's don't look around.
Posted on: 6/24/2009 7:56 PM by Author "e-sailpilot86" in the forum "AMA Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8875665

RE: Tangent DG 600 Evo
I might still have the manual for mine in English... I haven't seen a PDF or DOC file at all. Have you contacted Tangent to see about acquiring an English manual? So you know before you get it, it is a pretty easy model to assemble, the parts were simply larger than I was used to when I built mine 5 years ago. The hardest/frustrating part is the cockpit detail... The servo locations are already slotted out, the pushrods are mounted, you simply need to cut out the control surfaces with a very fine tooth saw, cover it (if yours needs covering I don't know, there are/were several versions), epoxy in the servo tray and a few other doodads. Use a big battery, those servos drink through the capacity really quick.
Posted on: 6/24/2009 2:46 PM by Author "e-sailpilot86" in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8877529

RE: *Airtronics RD8000 2.4 GHz*
Alright guys... enough toying with pride. [:)]
Posted on: 6/24/2009 2:36 PM by Author "e-sailpilot86" in the forum "RC Radios, Transmitters, Receivers, Servos, gyros"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8877492

RE: 2.4 or 14 MHZ??????
The 14MZ is a pretty advanced radio, yes it's quite capable. Not sure if it has the voice commands that I think were claimed (say "gear down" and guess what happens), but it is very advanced. It can be expanded to have even more channels than 12 proportional 2 switch with 7 channel encoders giving it 24+2 switch channels. An alternative radio in the futaba line is the tray type FX-40. It was $3000, not sure if it is discontinued or if Tower simply no longer carries it. Magnesium case like JR has. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXPTU8&P=7
Posted on: 6/24/2009 2:27 PM by Author "e-sailpilot86" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8877466

RE: *Airtronics RD8000 2.4 GHz*
One thing I hope they fix in future receivers is the failsafe. Having them only function on channels 1-4 is inadequate and useless on the models which would benefit from having a failsafe.
Posted on: 6/23/2009 4:19 PM by Author "e-sailpilot86" in the forum "RC Radios, Transmitters, Receivers, Servos, gyros"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8874641

RE: New to sailboats... And I live in the land of lakes
I am really surprised by how much effort is going into making the boat go faster... That's competition for ya! [:D] I brought it out to the lake about an hour ago... sails great! Probably a dog in comparison to the others as it is several ounces or grams heavier with the stock equipment, but its fun! [8D] I don't quite get the idea that Alkalines hold up better to current than rechargeables... They're 1.5v not 1.2v, and while alkaline ultimately last longer than anything rechargeable for endurance under low current... I have to say every experience I've had with model aircraft batteries tells me quite the contrary but ok. The boat still floats. :) I'll see if I can upload a picture of it sailing. I did not expect the wind to shift around so much, the wind is just over the lake while all the tall pines block wind from getting anywhere else. It was somewhat irregular and made for an interesting learning experience. You can see a photo of my Victoria sailing on our local lake by looking at my RCU marina and hover your mouse over the image for a larger view: http://www.rcuniverse.com/community/profile.cfm?memid=20456&section=models&type=Marina There must have been thermals blowing through the area, about 10 minutes into the first launching I got hit by a gust that blew the tip of the mast to within a foot of the water for a moment... I know well enough now how to keep that from happening.
Posted on: 6/22/2009 10:41 PM by Author "e-sailpilot86" in the forum "RC Sailboats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8872722

RE: New to sailboats... And I live in the land of lakes
Well, it's done, the victoria. Sorta. I have the sails sorted out to my capability at this point, it will need some more refining. I am having trouble with binding where the sail arm servo line passes outside of the cabin, and I am having some trouble getting the sails to unfurl at the same rate. They're out at the right angle, but I cannot pull them in to the same angle, particularly the main sail. A little more reading and it should be fine. I'm surprised how off the suggested line lengths were according to the manual. The servo control line is far too short, and the sail control line is far too long... Maybe I got the two mixed up, I don't know. Those knots are a pain. [&:] How many of you had to adjust the servo end point in your radio to get the sails to work right? I want to make sure I am doing this right, figuring it is intended for basic 2 channel AM radios it would use the full 100% servo travel. BTW, I'm glad I bought the digital servos, and I'd say the 160 oz in sail servo is fine, but it is either the minimum or ideal torque for the sail. I also think I want a replacement, more sturdy version of the rudder linkage, the plastic flops around a lot.
Posted on: 6/20/2009 9:29 PM by Author "e-sailpilot86" in the forum "RC Sailboats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8867922

US volz servo distributors?
Was considering using them several years ago, tried to find a store front for their servos without luck. SoaringUSA has their thin wing servos... where are the others? Seeing how turbine flyers like to put the best most reliable gear they can find in their planes, I'd figure there is a market for those guys. Considering volz servos are used in UAV's and have the specifications (and price...) that put most other servos to shame... where are they? http://www.volz-actuators.com/en/ I don't remember their servos being so exotic...
Posted on: 6/19/2009 3:35 PM by Author "e-sailpilot86" in the forum "RC Radios, Transmitters, Receivers, Servos, gyros"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8865134

RE: New to sailboats... And I live in the land of lakes
In all likelyhood I am not going to wax the paint. More likely (if ever), it will be sanded with fine sandpaper, and polished somehow. I was not considering a thick wax layer for grip, I was thinking smoothing paint. I performed a test on the car wax vs. paint beforehand and it does not work. Rubbing compound if the paint can take it... The Victoria's hull was sanded in prep for painting, and it has been painted. Dad's building the R-11 which is made from carved sugarpine. Very old design, but it works. The R-11 will be awhile. :) BTW, the paint on the Victoria turned out pretty good. Just a slight texture on the deck (still smooth), and even smoother on the hull. Might be able to make it even smother as I am suggesting, assuming the paint chemistry is correct. Send some wind over here. I'll probably have it sailing by this weekend, and at the least... floating. When I glue in the radio box, I'm thinking gorilla glue, heavy grit sanding the inside where there will be glue, and/or some fiberglass with epoxy. I don't know how much force that sail will be under, but I figured it was the largest control surface I've very used, so it's getting a 162 oz-in servo (193 on 6v... I'm using a 4 cell) and the rudder is getting a 61 oz-in servo.
Posted on: 6/18/2009 11:25 PM by Author "e-sailpilot86" in the forum "RC Sailboats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8863687

RE: buying first RC sailboat. Help?
The Victoria is fine, it's about $110-130 for the kit alone. Performance wise I don't know... probably don't care too much at this point yet. It's not a disappointing model, but it is not fiberglass. If you're okay with tying itty bitty knots, gluing, installing radio gear, etc. The hassles are pretty small, but to an inexperienced modeller, I'd say it's a perfectly fine start. I've built more complex aircraft before so... I'd compare this one model to building a r/c airplanes rudder... except for the knots... that is a bit new to me... [:D]Get a Victoria, but expect to add at least $80 for basic electronics necessary to run it. I ended up spending $300 on electronics for it (but the radio will work in other models too so...), and will probably spend more later on carbon masts, better sails and so on.
Posted on: 6/18/2009 11:10 PM by Author "e-sailpilot86" in the forum "RC Sailboats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8863743

RE: New to sailboats... And I live in the land of lakes
Got the Victoria nearly done, Just need some radio gear. It's on some UPS truck at the moment so I have no complaints. Bought a pretty high torque digital for the sail, a slightly above normal digital servo for the rudder, RDS8000 radio, and I sanded/painted the ABS hull with that plastic bonding-specialty paint that Krylon makes. The digital servos may be a bit of overkill, but so be it. I'm thinking about some sort of way to smooth the hull a bit more, and of some possible sail replacements in the future. I won't be terribly concerned about performance until I consider racing. Just looking for a lazy day at the lake. Wax the hull after going over it with 1500 wet sand? Just not sure at this point.
Posted on: 6/17/2009 12:48 AM by Author "e-sailpilot86" in the forum "RC Sailboats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8858324

Do any transmitters use optical absolute rotary encoders?
Using an absolute encoder + a regular potentiometer in the event the rotary encoder fails, seems like a great way to make our high end transmitters even more high end. Zero questions regarding linearity of the device compared to a potentiometer, no analog to digital conversion, just straight digital might save some (albeit petite/negligent) processing time. They also far exceed our needed resolution. No issues like the Dx6i had with bad/dirty potentiometers. Here's an example datasheet, I'm sure there are plenty of others that would do just as well: This one is only 0.75" in diameter, and it is 15 bit, or about 4000 or 8000 steps for a 90 degree stick movement. Not sure what the last bit is for, so it's either 2^14 or 2^15 accuracy/precision/something. With the highest precision radios at 2048, perhaps those extra bits that we don't need could be used as an acceleration "prediction" of how far the stick will be moved, get the servo moving out sooner. I don't know what it's recommended refresh rate would be, but it seems like an interesting prospect. http://www.gurley.com/Encoders/Info/A19.pdf
Posted on: 6/16/2009 4:41 PM by Author "e-sailpilot86" in the forum "RC Radios, Transmitters, Receivers, Servos, gyros"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8857102

RE: RDS8000
Not bad. 27ms latency. Significant improvement over my 9C, while not as fast as the latest futaba and JR/Specktrum gear, that's fast enough. I am unlikely to notice a difference between the 10CG which interested me, but I could not justify the cost. My 9C is... terrible! But look at what's at the front... One of the oldest radios, an airtronics stylus! [:D] http://www.runryder.com/rrpw.htm?p=1310272&i=6 Looking at the cost of a used stylus, I will seriously consider selling my futaba off and get a stylus just for what 72 mhz gear I have left. I wish I could show the graph comparing the transmitters... look at the first page (<<) on runryder and you'll see what I mean.
Posted on: 6/13/2009 3:20 AM by Author "e-sailpilot86" in the forum "RC Radios, Transmitters, Receivers, Servos, gyros"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8848463

RE: RDS8000
Any word on difference in latency "feeling"? Reviewing a thread on input=>output response, the 9C is relatively slow, 45ms+. 80ms with the TM-8. I would imagine the Airtronics radio is quite a bit faster, perhaps similar to the claimed 7ms 10 channel radio they will be releasing soon. It may not sound like much time, but I have felt the difference in video gaming online and these latencies are very much comparable. The P-51 has all (low end) digitals in it, the digitals felt better, I don't know about faster.
Posted on: 6/12/2009 3:49 AM by Author "e-sailpilot86" in the forum "RC Radios, Transmitters, Receivers, Servos, gyros"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8846113

RE: RDS8000
Wish I saw that ad sooner... I could have saved another $15... lol It's actually $40. Well... I signed up for the super saver club... but I had to be one before I could use that ad so... Glad to hear you like the radio enough to have 2. [:D] I'm going to use it in airplanes, and exotic model sailboats.
Posted on: 6/11/2009 10:15 PM by Author "e-sailpilot86" in the forum "RC Radios, Transmitters, Receivers, Servos, gyros"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8845549

RDS8000
I'm getting one. Good value, seems to have pretty good reviews from what I've read. I wish more was known about how the radio communicates with the reciever like the other brands... other than just FHSS. I'll be using it for both air and boat use. Tower has a deal with two recievers in the package with the transmitter for $229. I'll still use my 9C for the other planes, I will consider trying out the rds8000 in a .60 size P-51. I read the latency is significantly less than my Futaba, maybe I'll notice it and like it. We'll see. :) I still don't understand why the other manufacturers fail to use Spectrum's spatial arrangement of antennas...
Posted on: 6/11/2009 8:13 PM by Author "e-sailpilot86" in the forum "RC Radios, Transmitters, Receivers, Servos, gyros"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8845276

Recievers for 75 mhz spetra based Optic/Prism/Eclipse
I am determined to acquire one of the 3 transmitters above and install a Spectra 75 mhz module in the radio, and use it for surface models. I would like to get some 75 mhz recievers, mixed in both synthesized and crystal based. What recievers can I use, what range in the number of channels useing standard PPM? Do I need to send in my airplane recievers to set them to the 75 mhz band for a small fortune every time I want 8 channels? The only synthesized reciever I see that has the correct number of channels, is on 75 mhz, AND is synthesized is the Sombra Labs SL-8
Posted on: 6/9/2009 4:12 AM by Author "e-sailpilot86" in the forum "Hitec/MultiPlex Radios- Ask Hitec Customer Service"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8837545

RE: 9CAP 75 mhz module/reciever compability
Thank you for the reply. One more question. If I get the 10CA or 10CG to solve my dilemma... can/should I use it for advanced surface models in the 2.4 Ghz band? (I was considering just buying a TM-8 for my 9CAP, but the cost is quite high for the module, and the latency is... well, unacceptable. 7-14 ms vs 50-80 ms, I have a model with digital servos so I can take advantage of that) Is it likely I will notice a difference in latency? I will use it for both air and ground, do I need to worry about signal mirroring off lake water or range issues?
Posted on: 6/8/2009 7:00 PM by Author "e-sailpilot86" in the forum "Futaba Radios Direct support forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8836375

Wing Sails?
http://www.geocities.com/wingsails/ I'm sure there must be a way to make them look more elegant, like this one: [youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cCAoJrKsiw4[/youtube] Seeing how it has the similar construction of a flying model like I am used to, and the fact I am no longer flying models as much as I used to... make these a little tempting for me to try at some point. I now have a sailboat (Victoria), I'll be working on a wooden one with my father soon (not a wing sail). I like the fact the wing sails just need to be trimmed like an aileron in the video, or like a sidways elevatator in the first link, and the sail just freewheels automatically into it's natural position. Anyone tried these?
Posted on: 6/8/2009 3:30 PM by Author "e-sailpilot86" in the forum "RC Sailboats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8835887

RE: Soldering Brass fixings
I have no experience with resistive systems. They seem to be great when you need to use the heating element to tack items in position, and to hold them as well.
Posted on: 6/7/2009 8:13 PM by Author "e-sailpilot86" in the forum "RC Scale Boating"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8833657

Soldering Brass fixings
I've got them all done, but it sure took a while. Next time I will definately setup some jigs and such. Sanded, used flux, and a temperature controlled soldering iron + RoHS lead free solder. It took several tries, but the result is fine. Anyone have any pointers for the next time around, other than just getting to it and practicing? BTW, the RoHS solder worked fine. It adheres just fine to the brass after some flux and sanding. I figure if the leaded solder would have worked when this stuff wouldnt, it still would not have been a clean joint. What I have learned myself is this: 220 grit sandpaper works great for putting the grooves into the metal necessary for a good joint Flux paste is a necessity for a clean joint, and don't let it get too hot... let the flux do the work and heat it just right, then solder Keep the soldering tip very clean... for some reason, oxide builds up very easily on the tip I use Some sort of mechanical device to hold the pieces together while soldering is an absolute necessity (something better than alligator clips) Build it flat, then put the compound curves in later If too much solder builds up on the joint, just draw it down the brass with the iron until all excess at the joint is gone (or a solder wick) Solder paste is good at helping transfer heat to the joint (I use Orange Crush) Working with nitrile gloves helps keep the parts clean A mini sanding drum or dremel helps remove excess from the solder joints I'd probably charge a fortune to do this for someone else's model! ;) It takes a long time! Next time I'll try something like silver solder or whatever is more structurally sound. Considering this is just for scale detail, I have few concerns I used a xytronic 379 soldering iron. Handle is just the right size, well insulated, great temperature stability (with dial settings), and it heats up to operating temperature in no more than a minute.
Posted on: 6/6/2009 10:02 PM by Author "e-sailpilot86" in the forum "RC Scale Boating"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8831345

9CAP 75 mhz module/reciever compability
I have a 9CAP (not S). I understand to switch bands, I simply need a FUTL18** module on the 75 mhz band and I will be set. I am considering 2.4 Ghz but am sitting on the fence for now. -May I use standard 2 or 3 channel FM recievers on the 75 mhz band, even though I will be sending out 8 channels via the radio? -I do not see a 75 mhz synthesizer for the 9CAP, only 72. Does one exist which I may use? (BTW, FAQ Question 25 may want to be updated with the advent of 2.4 Ghz. It is correct regarding standard RC frequencies: http://www.futabarc.com/faq/faq-9c.html)
Posted on: 6/6/2009 3:33 AM by Author "e-sailpilot86" in the forum "Futaba Radios Direct support forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8829695

RE: New to sailboats... And I live in the land of lakes
I've decided on a boat. Thank you for the link on setting up sailboats. I still think I need to know a tad bit more, but I will be alright. I'm going to build this particular design at the same time my father builds his. We'll convert them to R/C. It could not be that hard, I have enough experience. It works as a free-flight (free-sail? I don't know) model, it will work as a remote controlled model. It is the Pirate R-11. I don't remember where my dad purchased the plans... I just need a few weeks and I'll be cutting and carving pine. If I cannot get sugar pine, what do you recommend as a substitute?
Posted on: 6/4/2009 12:31 AM by Author "e-sailpilot86" in the forum "RC Sailboats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8824144

RE: New to sailboats... And I live in the land of lakes
Are there any books you can recommend on r/c sailboat design? I see one book, not much design though.
Posted on: 6/1/2009 4:09 PM by Author "e-sailpilot86" in the forum "RC Sailboats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8817002

New to sailboats... And I live in the land of lakes
I live within walking distance of a lake, short driving distance of a second, and otherwise, I've got lots of lakes available to me. I was going to go with a car but... practicality is another thing. I have plans for a Pirate R-11, some 1917 sailboat that seems to be a good size. Looks like a 3-4 foot mast, but it looks heavy/simple to build. You cut out planks of wood, hollowed out, clamp them together with glue, and carve the hull shape. I think it was intended for being dropped off in a pond and to be picked up on the other side. If I can't use that, that's fine. I am itching to scratchbuild. I have plenty of experience with building, no worries there. I have a scrollsaw and I can also sew. I know the winds ok as I flew gliders and model sailplanes for some time. I suppose my main concern, is the regular lack of steady wind where I live. When it is steady, it is either pretty slow (5 mph or less), or bringing down trees (50+). Are there any models that can work ok off a 2 mph wind? Like the sailplane equivalent of a low wind, low wing loading floater such as a Gentle Lady or a Paragon? I have an 8 channel FM radio which I can purchase a surface module for as well. Near as I can tell I will probably only need 1 or 2 channels... But it's what I've got. I see a trimaran kit online, looks like it's low on drag. If I am going to sail in light winds, should I go for low drag? I really like that tippecanoe trimaran. It looks very slender, I think I could make that compact into a kite like bag and throw it over my shoulder on walks to the lake. It seems a littel too fast at times... lol. Water brake anyone?
Posted on: 5/31/2009 3:31 PM by Author "e-sailpilot86" in the forum "RC Sailboats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8813912

RE: Well I just read Dave's article on the new FAA proposals.
Nice to hear NAR and Tripoli got that issue solved. :) As we have not actually heard from the FAA yet, we have to wait if there will be something to fight for. For all we know, these suggested guidelines will be headed by the FAA (especially what the AMA said), and we wont be restricted to an absurd altitude, no litigation necessary. We just have to wait. I am curious about this whole thing of course. I don't know about Ammonium Perchlorate, but APCP is a composite. Different thread, but who or what determines if it can or cannot be shipped? I'd like to know. BTW, read the court ruling by the judge. The wording used in it may similarly express what the FAA may do if they arbitrarily restrict us to 400 feet. Such as these: ..." Lack of articulated standards guiding research. Lack of coherent explanation or research into the matter. Do the rules reflect reasoned judgement making. Standards used for rulemaking were arbitrary and capricious, abuse of discretion, not in accordance with the law. Significant evidence to the contrary dismissed simply because it was contrary to the agencies' decision..." etc. http://www.rocketryplanet.com/content/view/2788/29/
Posted on: 5/30/2009 7:36 PM by Author "e-sailpilot86" in the forum "AMA Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8812046

Any pneumatic or hydraulic steering kits or scratchbuilds?
I've been interested in rock crawling for a while, you may remember a prior post I made. I've got a nice place for it. It turned out to be a little slower than I thought but that's okay. I cannot drive all the way to an on-road track every weekend. As for the Subject question... well?
Posted on: 5/9/2009 5:55 PM by Author "e-sailpilot86" in the forum "RC Rock Crawlers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8754872