RE: before you get excited about the FLUX Savage...
why argue this point? just buy both. a electric and nitro. problem solved.
Posted on: 12/15/2008 10:59 PM by Author "ea77" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8250082

RE: Best Stock, "Out of box" nitro truck. Savage, revo, MGT, lst2?
HPI Savage XL gets my vote. Had a Kyosho Mad Force back in the day. 3 speed ladder frame chassis, was considered innovative back in the day. I get the same feeling when driving the HPI Savage XL. I don't desire to upgrade anything, everything works from the box. Just add a electronic failsafe. Sure you can pipe change this, put a big motor, switch the radio etc. but if you want to know our opinion on box stock truck, my vote goes to the HPI Savage XL.
Posted on: 12/10/2008 4:57 PM by Author "ea77" in the forum "RC Monster Trucks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8232838

RE: Axe cx micro.....Spinning??
I just got this I have the same problem. I lift off and the tail starts to wag and want to spin. I have to hold the tail to keep it going straight. I have a small space and you can only do so much before you have to back the throttle down before colliding into something. Frustrating, I think the person at the store who tested this out, had enough skills to do the corrections in flight. It doesn't want to hover properly out of the box. I need to do some gyro correction tonight... BTW, I just took the body off. I see two silver pots at the bottom right corner. Has anyone tried adjusting them?
Posted on: 12/8/2008 8:34 PM by Author "ea77" in the forum "Helimax"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8224848

RE: Just Got an SC8!!!
Thunder Tiger part #AA0779 is the back plate. You'll need to shave the pin off the crank shaft to make it fit. Got the Ofna Truggy box with dual 775 motors for starting. Stupid AE Pro Start in the most awkward nested position. Haven't started it up yet. It's been super cold here lately. When it warmer than 0 degrees Celcius I'll give this truck another shot at firing up and motor break in.
Posted on: 12/8/2008 8:33 PM by Author "ea77" in the forum "RC Monster Trucks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8226465

RE: Just Got an SC8!!!
AE is coming through and sending a replacement one-way bearing to me. From my local hobby store. I ordered a back plate for the motor and bought a Onfa truggy starter box. Once the backplate or AE one way bearing arrives (to fix the prostart system) I'll be ready to run again.
Posted on: 12/4/2008 1:16 AM by Author "ea77" in the forum "RC Monster Trucks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8211207

RE: SAVAGE FLUX HP
I keep hearing this comment over and over again. Everyone in the industry rebrands, this is not the first time. In my opinion they don't have any bad intentions of causing confusion. In fact they want the opposite effect for consumers a full HPI developed platform chassis and electronics. This is a moot point. This truck rocks! Pull in the schedule HPI and let consumers have this for Christmas. [quote]ORIGINAL: Access Why do they insist on renaming all their OEM gear? Why not just call it what it is (like Traxxas and everyone else who uses OEM gear does). It only leads to newbie confusion; irl they're not fooling anyone into thinking it's actually their gear and castle already has a good name when it comes to the parts in question. HPI isn't really a known name when it comes to electronics or motors... [/quote]
Posted on: 12/1/2008 11:55 PM by Author "ea77" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8203720

RE: so why would i buy a nitro?
I would buy both and electric and nitro. Because if you start with Nitro onlyand don't know all the troubleshooting of tuning nitro motor then you have nothing else to play with. Nitro is more satisfying though with the sound of smell even though these days one can get a brushless setups which faster and more efficient, and easy to setup.
Posted on: 12/1/2008 6:48 PM by Author "ea77" in the forum "RC Monster Trucks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8202634

RE: Starting In cold weather. Plz HELP
Hair dryer to warm the block to at least 100+ F, get a temp guage to measure, and proper heat range of glow plug, and a well charge glow plug heater, try stock needle settings, and adjust accordingly. Hopefully you got a rotostart because you're arm may fall from a pullstart if your motor is not broken in and set right. Store your nitro indoors at room temperature, start it up in your garage first let it warm up and leave to go bashing. Good luck.
Posted on: 12/1/2008 6:42 PM by Author "ea77" in the forum "RC Car General Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8202609

RE: Just Got an SC8!!!
I removed the motor this morning, removed the back plate and the one way bearing? (sorry no camera) had cracked in half. Just like in this photo I found of another person who had the same proble. http://www.aeforums.co.uk/forum/index.php?showtopic=2646 I will call Associated on Monday for a replacement. This sucks. I will likely get a back plate, and go for a starter box.
Posted on: 11/30/2008 11:51 AM by Author "ea77" in the forum "RC Monster Trucks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8197626

RE: Just Got an SC8!!!
If I can get this bloody thing started and broken in I can get some feedback on the chassis. Unfortunately the rotor start design AE used is not good. HPI uses a dogbone starter shaft not a hex that gets rounded off. The dogbone pivots much better and the two pins grip better. Same principal like a RC drive shaft in a drive cup. Will I do any damage if I don't remove the motor at this point? Rear backplate area spins but does not engage the flywheel. I was thinking of getting a starter box like an Ofna Truggy starter box and do away with this AE pro start system. [quote]ORIGINAL: 07fastback low needle needs to be 6 and half @ full throttle high should be 3 to start and adjust from there if you had probs w/backplate call associated and send it to them they will replace it gets better im @ about 6 tanks took alittle preload out of rear and it jumps great handles great runs great be patient it'll come to you but get your stuff fixed now so it doesnt cost ya a motor send the shaft back too make them replace it i havent had the trouble w/shaft yet... i drilled the top on my truck and used heat and pliers to tweak the roll bar then took the finger hold and spring off my glow stick so i can just push it down on and it works way better be patient man when it comes around it comes around well and you'll like itask alpha male also i think he's really likin his now too good luck and dont give up just work the few bugs out and enjoy [/quote]
Posted on: 11/29/2008 10:13 PM by Author "ea77" in the forum "RC Monster Trucks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8196107

RE: Just Got an SC8!!!
I ECHO THE SAME FEELINGS. AE design sucks badly for this starter location. It's garbage. It is very tight and you have to angle the starter shaft already a bad idea. I thought it was going to be easy with this pro-start system but it's the worst ever. I rounded the shaft once, bought a AE monster GT replacement which was shorter than the stock SC8 replacement. . Attempted again, now I had busted the one-way bearing in the back of the motor I believe. It spins the bearing but the flywheel on the front side of the motor is not moving any longer. If one is going to attempt to use the starter. Remove the rear bumper so your drill/hand starter can be inline with the starter hole and remove the rear sway bar. Hope I didn't screw up the motor, having problems starting it any suggestions on the needle settings. Stock settings in the manual are not working. I have a feeling they are wrong too! I saw a typo 6 and a half turns out on the low then in writing it says 4.5 turns which is it? Same with the high needle. [quote]ORIGINAL: Alpha Male Well gents, as much as I love this truck, I am pretty frustrated with the starter location. [:@] Since the new motor is so far forward on the chassis and so tight, I would suggest that anyone buying this truck might want to try to break it in using a starter box. I had so much trouble getting it to start and stay running during the first six tanks of break-in that I [i]grinded[/i] (ground?) a CVA in two. That's right, the starter shaft rubs on the left rear dogbone and slowly eats it away. It may seem like a careless mistake on my part and to a point I guess it was, but the shaft entering at the rear bumper of the truck doesn't have much room. I think that the rear sway bar could be removed during break-in in order to give yourself more room when repeatedly turning over the motor. At first, I noticed that it (starter shaft) was rubbing the rear shock tower, so I was trying to avoid that when I noticed that it was now rubbing the CVA instead. By the time that I realized what was happening the damage was done and the torque from the engine twisted it the rest of the way and snapped it. [:o] New parts are on the way, but I won't get to finish the other four tanks of break-in until I can get the parts installed. You might think...[i]ten tanks for break-in?!![/i], but I really think that this motor needs it in order to make sure that it is ready. I expect that I will use a half a gallon all together to get the motor run-in the right way. It should be a power house after that. [:D] These pictures are going to be low quality, but you might be able to see what I'm referring to. [/quote]
Posted on: 11/29/2008 7:14 PM by Author "ea77" in the forum "RC Monster Trucks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8195616

RE: looking for largest brushless boat rtr
thanks for your help. money is an object. it will be diff to order that boat from germany. i'll look at the supervee 27 you suggested.
Posted on: 11/4/2008 9:51 PM by Author "ea77" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8116286

looking for largest brushless boat rtr
any recommendations? speeds comparable to gas powered boat?
Posted on: 11/3/2008 8:34 PM by Author "ea77" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8112663

RE: 27.2 esp race ported???
this motor is not a torquey as what you can get from a 29 or 30cc motor, aren't these jet pro pipes for top speed and not torque. try to gear for more torque and put some weight in the back if you want some wheelie action.
Posted on: 9/28/2008 3:09 PM by Author "ea77" in the forum "RC Giant Scale Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7998814

RE: Broken steel pinion gear FG MT
i would say the play contributed to the increase wear of the gear. get an aluminum gear carrier to solve the problem.
Posted on: 9/13/2008 5:47 PM by Author "ea77" in the forum "RC Giant Scale Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7950834

RE: fs racing 4wd?
70wt shock oil too soft for the front, so I changed to 200wt for the front. Feels much better. , the clutch bell when engaging was slapping against the inner bearing then pushing against the plastic carrier. ( this may be due to myself reversing the clutch shoes for more positive engagement, probably not a wise thing to do in this transmission design ) I have put two thin shims at the clutch bell so that if the bearing rubs it will rub against the shims first. I have also put the clutch back to normal position. I will test this out tomorrow to see if it corrects the issue which I suspect that it will. Just got back, ended the run, smelt some plastic burning. Took the body off and noticed where the clutch bell meets the carrier I melted the plastic.
Posted on: 9/1/2008 8:50 PM by Author "ea77" in the forum "RC Giant Scale Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7906936

RE: OFFICIAL Discussion for the Pros and Cons of Clones in the Market
You get what you pay for. C'mon clones are low cost for a reason. If you expect higher quality, get the original. "Disassembly required" should be printed the box. haha Expect to break parts, if everything is of low grade especially critical points like drive components, then weigh in the cost, is it worth it? Just somehting to think about.
Posted on: 9/1/2008 12:16 AM by Author "ea77" in the forum "RC Giant Scale Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7906979

RE: fs racing 4wd?
Well didn't have a chance to go to the hardware store today, but found some tie wraps to reinforce the gear carrier. This may not work as well as the metal collar but will run tomorrow and find out. What weight of shock oil are you guys running? I tried 70wt in front and rear. Rear appears good but front is still very much soft.
Posted on: 8/31/2008 1:08 AM by Author "ea77" in the forum "RC Giant Scale Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7903940

RE: fs racing 4wd?
Yeah I already removed the plastic gear cover. The heat trapped inside was intense to say the least. [quote]ORIGINAL: mcspanners Hi ea77, you might want to try removing the plastic gear cover, as the heat will be sealed in causing the melt down. I removed mine and have had no problems since, im still running plastic gear carrier with steel gears. [/quote]
Posted on: 8/30/2008 9:29 AM by Author "ea77" in the forum "RC Giant Scale Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7901697

RE: fs racing 4wd?
So you put a metal collar around? I took out the gear carrier and the center carrier (one that has the pinion gear that mates to the center diff) too while I was at it. A lot of play there too. I used this Permatex Thread Sealant stuff I had in the garage. [IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v141/ea1077/fs%20buggy/DSC07970Medium.jpg[/IMG] Gear carrier, worn area at the hole where the clutch bell goes through. [IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v141/ea1077/fs%20buggy/DSC07967Medium.jpg[/IMG] Applying the sealant [IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v141/ea1077/fs%20buggy/DSC07971Medium.jpg[/IMG] Pressing the bearing in [IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v141/ea1077/fs%20buggy/DSC07972Medium.jpg[/IMG] Only did this on one side, will let it cure flat for 4hrs then do the same with the bearings on the other side. I will also look for collars that fit the outside. Did you just get a steel pipe and cut it for a collar?
Posted on: 8/30/2008 9:27 AM by Author "ea77" in the forum "RC Giant Scale Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7901694

RE: fs racing 4wd?
re: metal gears wearing out The play from the layshafts causes the gears to wear, I can image what happens if I still had plastic gears. I couldn't believe how much play developed after running in. A metal gear carrier is almost a must for the car. The bearings are going to shake loose from the plastic gear carrier.
Posted on: 8/29/2008 9:01 PM by Author "ea77" in the forum "RC Giant Scale Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7900434

RE: fs racing 4wd?
Ok. Yeah I figured it's the pickup pipe problem. It doesn't appear it goes to the bottom of the tank. I will try that suggestion of the clunk and fuel tubing. [quote]ORIGINAL: bentley marshall [quote]ORIGINAL: ea77 i added that vent on the tank.(metal nipple fitting and a foot of tygon tubing) will this help with the pressure of the tank? i noticed at about half the tank the motor dies
Posted on: 8/29/2008 8:59 PM by Author "ea77" in the forum "RC Giant Scale Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7900424

RE: fs racing 4wd?
The engine would die without the vent. I just put a vent on the fuel cap as you did in your photos and am going to run it today to see if it corrects the issue. If it doesn't then the only other thing would be the tube drawing the fuel is not hitting the bottom of the tank. re: converting to monster truck in terms of chassis changes. i tried putting the long shocks in the front of the buggy but they appear too long for the front shock tower. So I think the shock tower of the truck is different from the buggy.
Posted on: 8/29/2008 12:44 PM by Author "ea77" in the forum "RC Giant Scale Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7898959

RE: fs racing 4wd?
i added that vent on the tank.(metal nipple fitting and a foot of tygon tubing) will this help with the pressure of the tank? i noticed at about half the tank the motor dies because it does not draw up fuel to the carb.
Posted on: 8/29/2008 8:36 AM by Author "ea77" in the forum "RC Giant Scale Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7898314

RE: fs racing 4wd?
anyone noticed that fsracingusa.com has upped it prices on parts?!? can someone detail what parts are needed to convert buggy to monster truck onroad touring car
Posted on: 8/29/2008 8:32 AM by Author "ea77" in the forum "RC Giant Scale Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7898350

RE: fs racing 4wd?
Thanks for posting up the pics. Are you running the stock motor? How much use did you have on the chassis before these broke? So far I haven't broken anything except for the shocks. Blew them out a couple of times. This is a note to all who have FS, when rebuilding the stock shocks do not overfill the shock bodies with oil since they do not have a method to bleed off any excess oil. What happens if you overfill, well there's no way for the oil to escape so it finds the weakest area to escape the bottom of the shock body and blows out the o-rings, spring retainer, plastic washer. There's a rubber cap that is placed over the damper cylinder, fill oil where the rubber cap will sit into the cylinder. So it's like approximately 3mm from the top. Screw the cap on the shcok and compress the shocks by pushing the pistons all te way in. If it cannot be pushed in, then you have overfilled. Remove a bit of oil and try this test again. I overfilled mine a few times and blew out the shocks until I figured this out. True MCD shocks have a bleed on the cap, so any excess oil can escape before blowing out the o-rings or such at the bottom of the shock. So one can overfill and not worry about this. This is a subtle but notable quality difference of a true MCD.
Posted on: 8/28/2008 7:37 AM by Author "ea77" in the forum "RC Giant Scale Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7894614

RE: fs racing 4wd?
Here's a vid from most recent run http://www.vimeo.com/1613720
Posted on: 8/27/2008 7:36 PM by Author "ea77" in the forum "RC Giant Scale Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7892884

RE: fs racing 4wd?
Ok I will try doing that next time I run. Thanks!
Posted on: 8/27/2008 7:35 PM by Author "ea77" in the forum "RC Giant Scale Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7892877

RE: fs racing 4wd?
The tank isn't vented except for the hole in the gas cap. What do you guys suggest to vent it out properly? Remember this was a buggy, so short shocks in the front and longer in the rear. That's why it's so low. I know that's throwing you guys off big time. :) Those are FS Racing metal gears. They run too hot under the cover though. So I suggest drilling it out a bit to circulate or run without the lexan cover. Servos are 2x Hitec 5745 for steering and 1 Hitec 705 for throttle/brake.
Posted on: 8/27/2008 7:26 PM by Author "ea77" in the forum "RC Giant Scale Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7892823

RE: fs racing 4wd?
Some recent pics of my car. Truggy style now, with Smartech Titan wheels. :) [IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v141/ea1077/fs%20buggy/DSC07962Medium.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v141/ea1077/fs%20buggy/DSC07963Medium.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v141/ea1077/fs%20buggy/DSC07964Medium.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v141/ea1077/fs%20buggy/DSC07965Medium.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v141/ea1077/fs%20buggy/DSC07966Medium.jpg[/IMG]
Posted on: 8/27/2008 5:32 PM by Author "ea77" in the forum "RC Giant Scale Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7892484