RE: Veron Concord RC plane - info. wanted
Realy nice job Evan, the covering is excellent She looks like a real lady with those sleek lines. Despite the designs age she does not look at all dated. Last night I was considering the differences between the Striker I & II and decided that I can mix out any roll tendencies caused by the slightly high rudder and so am leaving it exactly as it is. Due to the fuselage's large cross section at the tail the improvement by bringing the rudder down in line with the bottom of the fuselage would be minimal anyway. That will be the reason why Peter redesigned the fuselage to be slimmer. I will be raising the tailplane as far as I can because I can see that making a significant difference and it's easy to do at this stage. Regards Dave
Posted on: 8/2/2009 5:49 AM by Author "esc" in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8983084

RE: Veron Concord RC plane - info. wanted
Thanks for the information and insight Evan. Re the rudder, I must admit that I had not mentally registered that significant change. Peter Russell even extended it down below the bottom of the fuselage so he must have thought it was necessary. I can understand the theory as to why he did that. Significantly he also raised the tailplane as high above the wing as possible to place it in "cleaner" air. I may do something similar to my design, creating a hybrid in the process. Unfortunatley the rudder change means losing the tailpipe which I quite liked [:o] I would love to see some pictures of your Concord please post some. Best wishes. Dave
Posted on: 8/1/2009 8:17 PM by Author "esc" in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8982211

RE: Veron Concord RC plane - info. wanted
Thank you Ray, I do appreciate the effort it must have taken to post these pictures for me. The Mk II is certainly simpler with the strip ailerons - obviously the split flaps have been done away with. The comparison in picture three is fascinating. I bet the reduction in the fuselage side area did nothing to improve knife edge flying though. On reflection I much prefer the looks and features of the original. I'll take the gamble that flight performance was not improved and continue with my design. Regards. Dave
Posted on: 8/1/2009 4:19 PM by Author "esc" in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8981774

RE: Veron Concord RC plane - info. wanted
Hi Ray, OK, it's christened - the "Striker-E" it is. Out of curiosity do you know why Peter Russell produced a Striker 2 version and what changes were made and the reasoning behind them? I must admit that I don't ever remember seeing it in RCM&E. You have intrigued me now. Regards, Dave
Posted on: 8/1/2009 12:30 PM by Author "esc" in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8981376

RE: Veron Concord RC plane - info. wanted
Hi Guys, Just thought I would call back to this thread and show you the progress I have made on the new Striker, or should that be Striker 2 or even Striker E48?? Anyway, I still have a fair bit of work to do before I can get some laser cut wood but it is progressing nicely now and I am quite happy with the design so far. Whilst the plane is similar in profile and aspect ratio to Peter's original, the construction bears only superficial resemblance. I have done away with the sloppy bellcrank aileron control system in favour of direct-to-servo connections. The split flaps have been totally redesigned and the fuselage shape is different, although it may look the same. Power will be provided by a .25 to .32 brushless motor equivalent turning something like 12x8 APC E prop (may require experimentation) and a battery pack of 3S 3300mAh 25C, which should give between 12-15 minutes flight time. This design would never have got this far without your help so once again thank you. I will post again when the plane is finished. Happy landings. Dave P.S. - I have not forgotten about the Concord.
Posted on: 8/1/2009 9:52 AM by Author "esc" in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8981106

RE: Veron Concord RC plane - info. wanted
PM sent Ray - thank you. Evan, that is most interesting. Just to clarify - are you talking about the full size version -the Concord - or are you talking about the Mini-Concord? It is interesting that you say that the plane is nearly neutral as I always balance mine so they will fly upside down without any pressure on the stick. I do like a neutral balance. I also want good spins and stall turns which of course require the larger rudder you mention. Also interesting is that you are still flying a Concord - how long have you had the plane and do you have any pictures? More details please. I still may replace the wing section with a fully symmetrical one but based on the light of this new information, should I? - this needs more thought! Regards to you both. Dave
Posted on: 7/9/2009 3:51 AM by Author "esc" in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8918285

RE: Veron Concord RC plane - info. wanted
Ray, that's most interesting thanks. Where did you get that information from? By any chance do you also know what the Strikers tailplane and rudder sections were? I chose the NACA 0015 section as I thought it suited my purposes best, but I may modify the thickness parameter based on your information. I intend using the same wing profile on both the Concord and Striker, although I may apply 2 degrees of dihedral to the Concord wing. That will be for looks not for stability - I don't need or want a plane that self-corrects in anyway. I am just trying to emulate the looks of these planes in a 48" wingspan electric powered package only. I am not inending making exact scaled copies. Regards, Dave
Posted on: 7/8/2009 6:15 PM by Author "esc" in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8916945

RE: Veron Concord RC plane - info. wanted
Hi Guys, My latest is that I have temporarily placed the revised Concord on the back burner. This is only because I revisited another post about Pete Russell's models that were published in RCM&E and fell in love with his Striker all over again. It's raging nostalgia I think! I have already started design work on a 48" electric version but I would appreciate any pictures you might have of this plane. My plan (no pun intended) is to finish the new design and go straight back to the Concord. They will both have the same size of wing and tail, aspect ratios and aerofoils. The wing section I am using is an NACA 0015 15% thickness at 29.7% of the chord. Once I have created the Striker wing, creating the one for the Concord will take no time at all. Then it's just a different fuselage and tail arrangement et voila two planes for the price of one. Thanks. Dave
Posted on: 7/8/2009 2:41 PM by Author "esc" in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8916452

RE: Veron Concord RC plane - info. wanted
Hi Alan, PM sent. Thanks. Dave
Posted on: 7/5/2009 6:16 PM by Author "esc" in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8908651

RE: Veron Concord RC plane - info. wanted
Hi Alan, Yes, I see what you mean they are very similar. In fact the Stormer is almost what I am looking to recreate - but scaled to about 48" wingspan. The tailplane structure is much less complicated than the full size Concord, which had 57 parts (see Ray's attached article). What is very interesting, and thank you for posting the plan, are the wing and tail sections aerofoils - semi-symmetrical and fully symmetrical. The tail fin shape is perhaps not as swish as the Concord but that is only a minor cosmetic change. Looking at them I can't believe how so nearly the same they are. Obvously the wingspan and chord of the Concord are different but I have to say that the influence of the Stormer is very strong indeed. Thank you for your response you have moved me a lot closer to creating my design. Dave
Posted on: 7/5/2009 3:14 PM by Author "esc" in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8908249

RE: Veron Concord RC plane - info. wanted
Thank you so much for the information gentlemen. Ray I may now have enough information to design my facsimile thanks to your images. I am not going to try to emulate the original too closely other than in the looks department. I might use a fully symmetrical wing section and reduce the dihedral to "0" or maybe just a couple of degrees. I want a hot aerobat with rough field capabilites, electric as previously stated but with that vintage look. Regards and happy landings to you both. Dave
Posted on: 7/3/2009 5:37 PM by Author "esc" in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8903730

Veron Concord RC plane - info. wanted
Hi Guys, This is the first time I have posted in this section as I mostly hang around the electric stuff. I have been flying models for a long time now but recently I must admit that the vintage stuff is fascinating me more and more, even ideas of control line models are stirring my blood. I have a hankering to build a replica of a plane I always wanted to build as a kid - the Veron Concord. There were two versions of this, the full size 60 version and the Mini-Concord. It is the larger of the two I am most interested in. Does anyone have any pictures, or better still plans available. My intention is to keep the basic shape, with possibly some modifications to improve the aerobatics, and bring bring it right up to date by designing a new version for electric power. Any information you can give will be gratefully received. Regards, Dave
Posted on: 7/3/2009 10:07 AM by Author "esc" in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8903333

New 3-D EP Profile Design
Hi Guys, I designed this 3-D EP Profile plane recently but I have neither the time nor building space to complete it. I was therefore going to temporarily shelve it. However, if enough adventurous builders come forward from this web site I will complete the design in my spare time and post it on this forum. I only ask for feedback. Before any of you rush into saying yes I must tell you that the files will only be available in AutoCAD "dwg," "dxf" or Inventor formats. Please note that I reserve intellectual rights to my design. It most not be given/sold to manufacturers or made a profit from without written permission from myself. Please feel free to make any comments or ask questions about the design that you wish. Whilst I realise there is nothing outstandingly different about it, I think it is a pleasantly shaped design and would provide a challenge to a competent builder and hopefully reward with a very good flight performance. The design is open to modification and I would be prepared to alter it as necessary to make it into a first class 3-D plane. Regards all, Dave
Posted on: 5/10/2009 10:49 AM by Author "esc" in the forum "3D Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8756254

RE: E-flight 480 problems
so you are already into dangerous territory. Now I have this information it sounds to me like your ESC... components, then why don't you try the ESC from your "good" plane. If swapping the ESC cures the problem you have at least a partial answer - it is either a faulty ESC or it is shutting... lucky with your first plane that you are within acceptable limits for that particular ESC. Another
Posted on: 2/18/2009 5:05 AM by Author "esc" in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8489612

RE: E-flight 480 problems
also be that your ESC is faulty. I have experienced the exact same symptoms you describe with a bad Thunder Power RC Smart Guide 40A ESC, funnily enough that was with a Park 480 - but it was not the motor at fault. Have you tried an alternative ESC with the motor? You will also need a battery pack that has... not your ESC then I need more informationn: What size of propeller are you using? Have you got a watt
Posted on: 2/17/2009 5:52 PM by Author "esc" in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8487572

RE: Let's see your Parkflyers!
This is my current airforce: From L to R: Great Planes Fokker D.VII, Hyperion Katana F3A/3D, Graupner Extra 300S, Precision Aerobatics Electric Shock and in the foreground an E-Flite Hawker Sea Fury with retracts and working rudder. The Tx on the shelf is long since redundant as they all operate using a Spektrum DX7 and either Spektrum AR500, AR6100E or AR6200 receivers. The radio gear on Sea Fury is running at 6v using a CC 10A BEC because of the extra servos and there is a Hyperion Servo Slow operating the U/C. The Extra R/C is also running on 6 volts. Regards all, Dave
Posted on: 2/10/2009 4:22 PM by Author "esc" in the forum "Park Flyers & Backyard Flyers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8461837

Mini Titan E325 navigation lights
Hi Guy's, I don't know if you have seen the new Xtreme Strobe Lights & Alarm, but if you haven't here is how I fixed a set to my Mini-Titan E325 last night. As can be seen from the photographs, especially the tail fin, I used pieces of black heat shrink tubing so it gripped the LED lens flange and covered the already heat shrunk connections of the wiring loom. The LED's were then fixed in place using a dab of medium BSI Cyano adhesive. Where I placed them allows for total freedom to remove the cockpit canopy. The high intensity front light (solid beam) was secured to the aerial tube which is supplied with the E325 kit, again using heat shrink tubing. As I am operating a Spektrum AR6100e receiver this item was redundant until now. I shortened the tube after positioning the LED where I wanted it to be. The Xtreme unit is really a nice bit of kit, it is light in weight, small, well made and when the Li-Po cell pack voltage falls below a user set limit of between 3 to 4 volts the LED's stop flashing and go solid in colour indicating it is time to land - neat eh! This voltage is set by adjusting a potentiometer visible on the casing. It can be used with both 2S and 3S packs (selectable via jumper visible in the first picture). Power for the unit is taken from the Li-Po balancer plug (JST-xh) and it comes with both 2S and 3S connectors. My LEDS are arranged thus - flashing Green (starboard), flashing Red (port) and flashing yellow (tail light). Strictly speaking the tail light should be white and a red anti-collision strobe could also be fitted on top of the fuselage. This unit does not have that facility but I am not complaining. For the £12 I paid for it I am extremely happy with it. Happy landings, Dave
Posted on: 12/8/2008 5:59 PM by Author "esc" in the forum "Electric RC Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8215615

RE: Mini Titan E325 navigation lights
I would love to if only I had a video camera :-( I can tell you it looks awesome in low light levels. So much so that my wife was impressed by it, and that takes some doing :-) I cant help thinking that these lights will help remove any doubt about the orientation of a helicopter too. I will make another post when I have had a chance to fly them in daylight unless someone else beats me to it. The weather here in the UK is currently varying from heavy snow to sleet and rain and the last time I looked my flying field was still flooded from the last soaking it got. I have seen a video of these lights in operation, but I could not find it on the internet when I tried to locate it just now. I did find the unit quite a bit cheaper than I paid for it (damn) here: http://www.heliguy.com/Extras/LiPo-Batteries/EA-020-Battery-Alarm-and-Navigation-Lights/ The picture shows how the unit comes, although mine did not have the extra LED and lead shown in this picture. I wonder what colour that one is? Best wishes, Dave Addendum: Just driven past my flying field and the water is now frozen into an ice rink - it looks very pretty but I would need a set of climbing crampons to negotiate it. The weather is gorgeous though, the sun is shining, it's warmed up a lot and it is windless - shame about the field.
Posted on: 12/6/2008 6:59 AM by Author "esc" in the forum "Electric RC Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8216052

RE: E-Flight Mini Showtime
Hi, This is what the reviewer did in a recent article about the Mini Show Time in RC Model World (see picture). He cut the top edge of the cowling back allowing him to raise the battery cover and remove it. Hope this helps. My apologies for the quality of this picture - it was taken with flash direct from the magazine page. FYI - the reviewer stated that it was impossible to get the C of G right, even using the factory set up. I have seen this mentioned in several posts. Good luck. Dave
Posted on: 7/21/2008 6:45 PM by Author "esc" in the forum "Electric Aerobatic & Sport Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7756375

RE: Awwww Crap..! Crashed my SA
Problem is once you've crashed, paid the bill and realised just how much it cost you, you get a little bit gun shy. On average a "good" crash (LOL), something I never think about when flying 3D planes, is going to cost in the region of £100 or nearly $200. You start seeing pound/dollar signs pass before your eyes every time you fly - not a pleasant experience. The other down side is that you start thinking about all the other gear or new plane you could have bought for that money. This month I was intending to buy three or four extra li-po packs which could be used in the Mini-T or my Extra 300S. Due to that crash that purchase is on hold until next month :-( I would'nt have minded picking up a new Hyperion Cap 232 10e 2008 version either - damn that woman and her dog! On the up side the Mini-T is ready to go and looking as good as new. Good luck to you all - happy landings. Regards, Dave
Posted on: 6/16/2008 1:41 PM by Author "esc" in the forum "Electric RC Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7625125

RE: TT Mini Titan and Scorpion HK-2221-6 V2
Good sound advice. The only thing I would differ with is the choice of head. Whilst "Kasama"is very good and has an excellent reputation you might like to have a look at a "G-Force" head. It is very well made, incredibly strong, and has the advantage of being tunable - you can vary the three "O" rings in each side of the head to achieve the flight characteristics you desire. This is my own personal opinion you understand, but if you choose either of these heads you will not go far wrong. Oh, one other thing, change the main rotor blades to carbon. I can recommend SAB - they fly very nicely indeed. I am just about to try a new set of BBT Maniacs, but I can't as yet comment on them. Good luck. Regards all, Dave
Posted on: 6/13/2008 6:49 PM by Author "esc" in the forum "Electric RC Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7616078

RE: Awwww Crap..! Crashed my SA
Can I make a suggestion - get yourself a good flight simulator, something like the Phoenix offering, RealFlight (which I use) or one of the other top brands. It will save you a lot of money in the long run - and it's costs nothing to crash :-) You can practice all the dangerous stuff like backwards inverted flight without any risk to your wallet. Seriously, a good simulator is worth it's weight in platinum. Regards, Dave
Posted on: 6/13/2008 6:46 PM by Author "esc" in the forum "Electric RC Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7616188

RE: TT Mini Titan and Scorpion HK-2221-6 V2
Here is a picture of my Mini-Titan head, it is half TT and half "G-Force." I prefer the flybar cage arrangement to the Kasama set up. Dave
Posted on: 6/13/2008 6:15 PM by Author "esc" in the forum "Electric RC Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7616116

RE: Awwww Crap..! Crashed my SA
I too come from 3D fixed wing flying, and have exactly the same instinct to chop the throttle when in trouble - it's a very difficult habit to brake, but fatal with a heli if you don't. I recently crashed my Mini-Titan which had been fully upgraded. The crash made a nasty mess of several metal parts, fortunately all of which were carefully straightened and re-usable after some work. The canopy, undercarriage, SAB carbon blades, hardened main shaft, feathering shaft, flybar, many of the linkages and landing skids were all right-off's. She is ready to fly again now though. The cause of the crash - I had got permission to fly on a local field, which admittedly was a little tight for space, but not overly so. I was just into a few circuits when a woman entered the field and released her dog. This animal tore up the field and proceeded to run round my legs, whilst the owner walked directly into the flight path of the helicopter. This all happened so quickly that I had very little time to make any sense of the moment and in an effort of safety ended up hitting the deck whilst trying to keep the heli away from the dog and owner. In retrospect (easy to think of these things after the fact) I should have just opened the throttle and gained height until the danger had passed. Lesson learned I am steering clear of that field and flying only when I can guarantee I have time and space to safely land the plane/heli before any members of "joe public" can possibly get in the way. My sympathies to you. Regards all, Dave
Posted on: 6/13/2008 5:50 PM by Author "esc" in the forum "Electric RC Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7616032

RE: Why would tracking go off?
I have one suggestion - are your dampers lubricated? If not, dry dampers can do some strange things. I personally use a special grease that the paintballers use on on their guns. It never dries out. I have a Mini-Titan with a G-Force head which uses three "O" rings per side. These can be adjusted for the type of flight desired by using harder or softer grades of rings - it is however important that they are lubricated. The grease I use is DOW 33 sometimes know as "Sleek." Try it, it might sort your problem. Hope this helps. Regards all, Dave P.S.- I also use it to lubricate the blade roots. It makes a big difference there too.
Posted on: 6/13/2008 5:30 PM by Author "esc" in the forum "Electric RC Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7615979

RE: black horse of 450class heli
Looks nice. I'll second that - what is it? Dave
Posted on: 2/2/2008 10:42 AM by Author "esc" in the forum "Electric RC Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7011928

RE: How do I balance my tail rotor blades?
Thanks. Regards, Dave
Posted on: 1/5/2008 9:11 AM by Author "esc" in the forum "Electric RC Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6857044

How do I balance my tail rotor blades?
Hi Guys, I am setting up my new Mini-Titan and was wondering how I could balance the tail rotor blades? One idea I had was to take the tail pitch control set, together with the socket screws, and use my Du-Bro prop balancer - adding weight to the lighter blade. Can anyone advise me if this is not the correct way to do it please. Thanks for your help. Regards, Dave
Posted on: 1/4/2008 7:10 PM by Author "esc" in the forum "Electric RC Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6854574

RE: Which Gyro & Servos for a Mini-Titan?
Okay, thanks for that, it's where I thought it should be. I am surprised that it is not covered in the construction manual. On my 3D planes I usually move my C of G back until I get exactly the same flight characteristics both inverted in right way up. That's the way I like it. Does the same theory apply to a Heli. for aerobatics? Was there any specific reason you changed to the 65MG's? Regards, Dave
Posted on: 1/1/2008 6:06 PM by Author "esc" in the forum "Electric RC Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6838049

Which Gyro & Servos for a Mini-Titan?
Hi Guys, I have almost completed my new TT Mini-Titan and am now trying to decide on the servos & gyro. I know that I have had responses from some of you before on this very subject, but I now have further questions, please read on: I am considering using the Thunder Tigre C1016 servos for the rotor head and possibly a Futaba GY401 gyro and matching S9257 digital servo for the tail. Are these good choices? I know I could use HS-65HB's for the rotor, but that would have the disadvantage of having to cut material away the servo mounting trays and using packers to raise the servos to the correct height. The HS65's are slower & bigger, but have more torque. I can't decided which way to go! How does the GY401 stack up against more modern gyros like the Spartan DS760 for example, or the Hitec HS-5000, Logictech 2100T or CSM SL420E? I will be using a Spektrum DX7 and an A6100E Rx. I know that this causes some issues with the Spartan Gyro, which can be addressed by binding the Tx & Rx whilst holding the rudder stick full left, is this also necessary with the Futaba GY401 and the rest? Are there any other issues with the Spektrum system and the mentioned Gyro's? Thanks for your help. Regards and Happy New Year to you all. Dave
Posted on: 1/1/2008 12:37 PM by Author "esc" in the forum "Electric RC Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6836349