RE: OS .60 FP Bushed engine suddenly dies
I had a magnum 25 that was mounted sideways that would do that exact same thing. It idled perfect and ran from 1/2 to full exellent. I originally thought my problem was that a little drop of fuel was building up on the throat of the carb when between 1/4 and 1/2 throttle and when it got big enough would suck into the engine and snuff the glow plug. I ended up leaning out the idle just slightly and have not had the problem since. I don't know if this was my problem as I changed the glow plug at the same time. But my simptoms were the same, it would be running great at 1/3 throttle and sound good but all of a sudden it would just quit like someone threw an ignition switch off.
Posted on: 9/7/2012 9:15 AM by Author "flybyjohn" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11220722

RE: seamaster plane questions
For the ace seamaster 40 arf, several have said between 3 and 3.5" from leading edge.
Posted on: 9/5/2012 5:22 AM by Author "flybyjohn" in the forum "Seaplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11218094

RE: seamaster plane questions
I found the website that I got my plans from. Here it is. http://www.colinusher.info/Model%20Aircraft/seamaster.html
Posted on: 9/4/2012 7:28 AM by Author "flybyjohn" in the forum "Seaplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11216853

RE: seamaster plane questions
rrigby, my plans are not the ace seamaster kit but I would amagine if you balance in on the main spar you will be good to go. You can adjust from there if you choose to after initial flight.
Posted on: 9/4/2012 7:20 AM by Author "flybyjohn" in the forum "Seaplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11216841

RE: seamaster plane questions
I used twin magnum 25 engines on my seamaster 40 built from plans. You don't need to scale it up any. The 25's will be just right for the 40 size. One engine will still fly it in the air, I would not try and take off on one though. I built the wing flat all in one piece and used hemlock for the main spars instead of balsa. The plans I used were free on line and are the lightened version of Ken Willards plans. I can't remember what web site I found them on but if you search around you should be able to find them. I have a write up of my build here on rcuniverse somewhere. Here is a picture of my twin. It handles really well in the water and flys great.
Posted on: 9/4/2012 7:09 AM by Author "flybyjohn" in the forum "Seaplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11216829

RE: R.I.P.
I have a airtronics rd8000 radio. Bought it just after it came out. It has a spring loaded push, on let off, off switch. It only has about 1/32" to 1/16" travel to it. I was quite suprised that it could get stuck. First time it has ever happened. With a toggle switch, you could actually pull it back if the spring gave up, but I could see someone breaking it off in a tense situation.
Posted on: 8/27/2012 9:31 AM by Author "flybyjohn" in the forum "Seaplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11207687

R.I.P.
R.I.P. Had a great float fly here in Helena this last weekend. Alot of great planes and old and young pilots. Great weather and water. I had my son flying on a Carl Goldberg Falcon 2 and using the buddy box. Well if of all things that could go wrong, the devise designed to help prevent the loss of an airplane was actually the cause of the accident. The trainer button switch on my transmitter got stuck in the down position on my airtronics radio. I did not relize it at first and was wondering after the crash if I forgot to take my finger off the botton to take control, after 100's of times of saving planes, did I actually forget to take my finger off the botton this once? Well after recovery of the totalled airplane, I got my twin seamaster ready for flight and turned on the radio and plane and I had no control. After several on and off switches, I finally decided to push the trainer button and "click" it started working. The trainer button was indeed stuck, and my mind was set a little bit at ease that it ended up being mechanical failure and not pilot error this time. I informed my son, that from now on, he should fly the airplane all the way to the ground even if he has decided to give the control back to me because he just might be able to save it if there is another switch failure. Well it is time to put another airplane on floats I guess.
Posted on: 8/27/2012 7:52 AM by Author "flybyjohn" in the forum "Seaplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11207543

Fuel lubricant not slippery?
I have some Magnum 15% fuel that has synthetic/ caster blend oil, not sure what percent oil content or oil ratio that I am running in my ASP/magnum 25xls engines. I noticed that the carb barrels seem to be sticking like non lubercated metal to metal with super fine particals.The engines are rotated so that they are in the 8:00 to 8:30 position with the muffler on the bottom. The thottle servos will stall out sometimes becuase the carb barrels are getting a little bit stuck. I origionaly thought is was some sand that I picked up on the beach that was causing this, however when one carb was not working right, I put a new carb from another new engine I had on it and within a tank or two of fuel, the barrel started to stick again. I then thought about the fuel and I put a small amount between my fingers and instead of the fuel feeling slippery between my fingers, it was kind of grippy. Since I did not know what kind of oil content the fuel had, I poured in some caster oil and ran the engine for another tank. The barrels seem to be a little better than before but are still a little sticky. Has anybody ever had this experience before with the barrels getting hung up with fuel. The new carb I put on turned very smoothy before running fuel though it.
Posted on: 8/22/2012 12:18 PM by Author "flybyjohn" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11196984

RE: Fuel lubricant not slippery?
The engines are 25 two strokes. They are on a seamaster twin that I made. Both engines have the same problem. I am currently using a flexible stranded wire cable. It is very flexible. It pushes out quite well because the spring behind the barrel helps it out, it just does not pull in very well. There is at least 2 inches of cable between the firewall and the carb. I will try and take a picture tonight and post it.
Posted on: 8/22/2012 8:10 AM by Author "flybyjohn" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11202059

RE: Fuel lubricant not slippery?
Ok, I took a closer look at the setup. My flexible steel cable for the thotle arm to servo comes strait out of the firewall to the carb barrel arm at full throttle. When the servo is activated to low throttle, it pulls straight into the firewall but the barrel wants to move to the side as it rotates because of the angle slot cut into the barrel. I think this sideways motion is putting a little torque on the barrel and binding it. Even with this little bit of torque however, if you add a drop of oil to the barrel, it will work flawlessly until the fuel washes away the oil. With it dry and no oil, it will still work flawlessly. With the alcohol, it gets sticky. After I clean out the carbs it works good, then run fuel and it gets sticky. So what is the prognosis now?
Posted on: 8/18/2012 10:00 PM by Author "flybyjohn" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11198353

RE: Max Fuel Tank Size?
Just my guess but with more than a 14 oz tank centered on the carb., when the fuel gets low, it will be harder to pull fuel up from the bottom of the tank. It would be like having the tank too low.
Posted on: 8/7/2012 9:02 PM by Author "flybyjohn" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11185087

RE: Making a O.S.FS91S straight pipe extension
I think the 91fs has 11mm theads, that is not a very common size. I was going to tap a piece of metal for the muffler and could not find a tap anywhere in town. I don't know what the pitch of the threads are now but I did find it once when I was searching. I just looked it up and the thread size is 11 x .75 mm. It is not hard to find mufflers with this thread size but might be harder to find the taps and dies.
Posted on: 7/31/2012 11:12 AM by Author "flybyjohn" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11176052

RE: Como .50
Another way as stated on the supertiger carb instuctions is to remove the carb and screw the idle needle in until the needle is halfway across the catseye opening and to make sure the catseye is pointed straigh down the barrell. That is the starting point. After you get it tuned, you can turn the catseye slightly to the side either way for good midrange. That is how I did my como 90.
Posted on: 7/24/2012 11:14 AM by Author "flybyjohn" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11167416

RE: Master K vs APC
It sounds like you are conserned about how the plane looks. If that is important to you then put the prop that looks good to you on the plane, it will fly just fine with either prop. If you are trying to get every bit of power and performance from the plane, then you will have to do some testing and then keep the "look good" prop to put on for static display. Nobody will be able to see the prop you have on it in flight.
Posted on: 7/16/2012 11:17 AM by Author "flybyjohn" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11157440

RE: What can I put on this?
That looks like a great thread. I will have to remember not to do too much myself and let my daughter drive this project as this other fellow is doing.
Posted on: 7/9/2012 9:41 AM by Author "flybyjohn" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11148762

RE: OS46FX Bearing Replacement Help
I usually buy my bearings from rcbearings.com They are not original parts but they seem to work good for me. To get the old bearings out. take everything out of the case so that there is only the bearings left. Heat the oven up to 325 to 350. Put the case in the oven for 10 to 15 minutes, remove and tap the back of the case on a block of wood and the main bearing should drop out. I then take a small wood dowel that fits through the front journal but not the bearing and tap that and the front bearing should pop out. To put the new bearings in it helps to heat the case again and the new bearings should drop right in. I have had two main bearings that did not want to come out and I had to patiently tap them out with a brass punch, but heat should work on a os 46 fx.
Posted on: 7/7/2012 6:47 PM by Author "flybyjohn" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11147021

RE: What can I put on this?
Thanks for all the replies and advise guys. My daughter is 10 going on 11. I do have a tower 40 size trainer, and homemade Super Vapor, and a GWS Funny Flyer for my son and daughter to learn on, they just don't ever want to go out and fly them. I am going to start taking it to the field with me anyways from now on and I will fuel it and get it in the air and then I will ask them if they want to fly it. I can then land and hook up the buddy box and then fly with them. The reason why my daughter suddenly got interested in building a plane is that I was working in the garage on my corsair and my daughter came into the garage really bored because I started limiting her to only 1 hour of TV a night. I told her she could help me build and she suggusted that she start on the old p-40. So I said sure and it turns out it is a little heavy for what I have on hand to power it. The reason that my daughter is so exited to build a model is to cover it with her own colors. So my thought proccess is that I told her we would build a plane and in the mean time teach her how to fly on one of the trainers and when she gets good enough with the trainer, she can fly the plane we build together (me on the buddy box of course). This might give her the motivation to learn to fly if she knows she has a fancy plane waiting for her. Another motivator is that the neighbor's kid wants to learn to fly so we will start taking him to the field too. We have decided to build a mini- RC Nobler. I have the TF Gold Edition 25-45 size one and it is just a joy to fly with a 46 on it. I have reduced and modified the plans to 70% with a wing span of 35.5" and 385 sq. in. of wing area. We will build it with a small wing tube so we will have more room inside the fuse for servos and such. No flaps. I am going to try my hardest to keep it less than 36 oz. I have the reduced plans all drawn up and am about to print the templates for us to get started on so that she doesn't loose interest. I always takes me longer to build than I expect but I am thinking that after one week of 2 hrs a night. we should have something that looks like an airplane.
Posted on: 7/6/2012 11:21 AM by Author "flybyjohn" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11145478

RE: Exhaust Nipple - Locktite?
I have had muffler bolts loosen up but have never had a pressure nipple come loose. I would just screw it in and check it in 10 flights and if it isn't loose yet, leave it alone. But if you insist, I have used the grey silicone for my mufflers for the gasket and bolts to hold them in. I have had no problems with the grey and the heat. I believe the grey is good for over 450 deg. and the muffler shouldn't get that hot if it is glow. I clean the parts with acetone and just dab a small spot on and tap it around with my finger till just the surface has a really thin layer on both mating surfaces and then put some on the bolt theads and screw together. It makes a great seal, and I haven't had a loose bolt yet and the grey maches the aluminum very well. This would work for the pressure nipple I am sure.
Posted on: 7/3/2012 10:59 AM by Author "flybyjohn" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11141449

RE: What can I put on this?
Well I broke the news to my daughter last night when I tucked her in. We agreed to start from scratch and build a plane to fit the 15 ASP. I am thinking of building a stick type plane with a few little extras like a turtle deck and small cowl. I tried to talk her into a small foam electric, but she said she definitely wants fuel, she makes me so proud.
Posted on: 7/2/2012 4:36 AM by Author "flybyjohn" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11139558

RE: What can I put on this?
Well it looks like it is going to be heavy. The total weight should be about 25 to 27 oz without fuel and the wing area is 178 sq.in. That puts me in the 21 to 22 oz/sq-ft. For this size plane, that is a lot. the wing cubic loading is in the 18.2 to 19.7 range and according to the recommendations, racers are 15 wcl and greater. It might just be better to hang this one from the rafters.
Posted on: 7/1/2012 8:45 PM by Author "flybyjohn" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11139362

RE: What can I put on this?
Just the wood right now is 12 oz. after the battery, engine, fuel tank, servos and rx. I don't know what I will be at. It also needs covering. The servos I have are only 7g servos but put out the torque of the standard 9g. servos. I don't think they will be up to the task but was thinking that with just one on each aileron and maybe two on the elevator, they might be enough. I will weigh all the electronics and see where I am at. That will give me an idea of the wing loading. The landing will have to be a " cut the engine right above the runway deal" and then just belly in. I am pretty good with throttle management, so the extra power I am not worried about, it is the extra weight that might get me. With an 8x3 I should have plenty of pull so stalling it out shouldn't be a problem.
Posted on: 7/1/2012 6:55 PM by Author "flybyjohn" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11139205

RE: What can I put on this?
The LA must be lighter than the asp 15 then. I have an ASP so that is what I would like to put in it. So I am assuming with 90 mph that the small 7g. servos @ 1.2 kg-cm torque are not going to hack it. I will need to go up a size to maybe some park flyer servos.
Posted on: 7/1/2012 5:25 PM by Author "flybyjohn" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11139078

RE: What can I put on this?
one more
Posted on: 7/1/2012 5:04 PM by Author "flybyjohn" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11139052

RE: What can I put on this?
here is another picture
Posted on: 7/1/2012 5:01 PM by Author "flybyjohn" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11139049

What can I put on this?
I have an old balsa p40 that I got out of someones garage. I don't know how old it may be but it was made for glow and the nose is built up with balsa and is solid. Must be to skid in on since it does not have any landing gear. I have just the balsa fuse and wing that my daughter started to sand all the mold off of. I am helping her get it flyable, although it is way out of her skill level at this time. (She is however showing some interest in learning now though). Any way, the wingspan is 32 inches and the plane without any electronics or hardware is about 12 oz right now. The smallest airplane I have right now is a house of balsa spacewalker with a magnum .15 on it. This airplane has a lot smaller wing on it than the spacewalker. I was wondering what kind of power plant I should put on this plane. I have some small electric stuff but not much and a 15 size asp engine. Do you think this plane might be a good candidate for the 15 or would it just be too overpowered? I can order a new motor and esc but would like to go with what I have right now if it will work. I also have some small servos that are 1.2 kg-cm. that I was thinking of putting on the ailerons (one each) and the elevator and throttle, I was going to glue the rudder solid. Do you think the servos would have enough grunt with a 15 size engine?
Posted on: 7/1/2012 4:59 PM by Author "flybyjohn" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11139045

RE: Test for Glow Engine Experts
I don't think it was heat, because you said it would only run till it hit the top of the stopper and then stop. It is fuel level mixed with the airflow over the carb. I never heard of this before, but after what you have said I can imagine it. If you wanted to truly test this to eliminate overheating then you would have to put the spinner back on and fill the tank full start up and tune with pressure attached and then stop engine, pour half the fuel out, start up and see if it runs cold with half a tank. if it doesn't then with the carb leaned to the flying setting and full head of fuel it has just enough pressure in the fuel tank to run but anything less than a full tank and it dies. I guess a 3 line tank setup (two clunks on the bottom of tank) would test this theory also being the tank would have the same pressure from full to empty.
Posted on: 6/29/2012 9:38 PM by Author "flybyjohn" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11137293

RE: Spektrum A7000 retract servo
I know this thread has not been active for a few months, however I was wondering if anybody else has had any experience with the a7000 lately. I just purchased one for my h9 corsair and although it does get the gear up where as the hs75 stalled out, it takes a long time sitting there buzzing while the gear is barely moving. It finally shuts off at the end of the cycle. I noticed unloaded on the bench, it seems to slow down like it is binding near the end of the cycle. Has anyone else noticed this. The last 5-10 degrees of travel has a different sound and speed than the rest of the cycle. I don’t have any delay set for the retract and it takes a full 6-7 seconds to get the gear fully locked in the up position, but the servo never stops, just continues to move slowly buzzing along. I like the way it slowly retracts, but it just seems like it is really struggling. If I keep it in the plane, I think I will add an extra battery for it. Maybe I should have just got another hs75 and put dual retract servos in it.
Posted on: 6/29/2012 7:58 AM by Author "flybyjohn" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11136448

a7000 retract servo
I just purchased an A7000 retract servo from a spektrum dealer online. It is supposed to have 260 oz-in. of torque. Upon first hooking it up to my rx, I noticed that the servo motion was not even through the whole cycle. It would start fast but near the end of the travel it would slow down like it was binding. It did this both directions. It is supposed to have about a 1.5 sec for 160 deg of travel speed and it seems to do this unloaded but when hooked up to the retracts, it takes a good 5 seconds to retract all the time sounding like it is going to die. Of course going down, it is fairly fast but comming up under load it really is slow, which looks good but if the servo is under a lot of stress, it might give out, and I don't want that to happen in flight. I have a 2400mah, 4.8v nimh battery hooked up to it. I was about to try 6.0v to see if it behaves any differently. Does anybody know if this behavior is normal. My hitec hs75 servo did not behave this way.
Posted on: 6/29/2012 5:48 AM by Author "flybyjohn" in the forum "RC Radios, Transmitters, Receivers, Servos, gyros"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11136270

RE: Plans or drawing for this ?
What were you thinking of for a power plant for that. I looks like it might be difficult but with todays electric motors, there might be a long skinny brushless that would work.
Posted on: 6/28/2012 10:35 AM by Author "flybyjohn" in the forum "Seaplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11135194

RE: Tower hobbies 46 muffler
I have a jensd47 muffler that came on another engine I have, I think it is jbl or tigershark. I have not weighed them both but the tower muffler feels half the weight of the jensd47 muffler. The jens muffler is well built however. The center aluminum piece is threadded on to the header and I think also the end piece, it also has a heavy duty center bolt (could have been lighter) through the whole thing. I guess my original thoughts were is it the shape and size of the muffler that makes it add more power to the engine. I know that the volume has some thing to do with it but does the shape of that volume make the difference also, for example fat and short, long and skinny. There must be a perfect aspect ratio. What ever it is, the tower muffler must have been just right in that reguards. It is almost like a mini mouse can muffler.
Posted on: 6/27/2012 5:57 AM by Author "flybyjohn" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11133597