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RE: 150 meter rule.
FAI F3A Box Distance Table Distance | Distance | Time across box from pilot | across box | in seconds Meters Feet | M | Ft | @60mph | @75 | @100 150 | 492 | 520 |1707 | 19.4 | 15.5 | 11.6 175 | 574 | 606 |1990 | 22.6 | 18.1 | 13.5 200 | 656 | 693 |2275 | 25.9 | 20.7 | 15.5 225 | 738 | 779 |2557 | 29.1 | 23.2 | 17.4 250 | 820 | 866 |2843 | 32.3 | 25.8 | 19.3
Posted on: 9/14/2012 2:14 PM by Author "flywilly"
in the forum "RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11228637
RE: 2012 YS short stroke 60 update
Just a quick follow-up: there will be plenty of parts available for the new YS. Once YS has worked out the production issues for the initial engine there is no reason they can't produce another 100 (or more) engines if demand justifies. AXE Rossi indicated (in the previous thread about the new YS 60) that they would be willing to produce 100 engines, but basically required guaranteed sales of the 100 engines. YS may be making a comeback in pattern (converting some e-pilots) at least for F3A competitors.
Posted on: 8/28/2012 6:02 PM by Author "flywilly"
in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11209676
2012 YS short stroke 60 update
Hi guys, I just spoke with Rich Verano today about the status of the new YS 60 (or 61). YS has been working on it, albeit slowly, and has promised that the production version will be available this year (2012). Rich had run a pre-production prototype about 3 months ago; he loved the power but not the carburetion. He does not know the specifics of the YS changes as he has not seen the latest version. Hopefully, he'll get one soon. And ours will follow shortly there-after! -Will
Posted on: 8/27/2012 6:38 PM by Author "flywilly"
in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11208383
RE: Who's running all synthetic fuel ?
I ran castor oil in my fuel for the first 24 years that I flew (starting in 1969). the amount of castor decreased over the years from 18% to 3%. In 1993 I started running all synthetic and have done so since with no regrets. I burn about 40 gallons per year (sometimes more) and have never had lubrication issues, though I am careful about needle settings. Typically, I get 300-500 flights on rear bearings (Hanno special, OS 140rx) and 50-60 flights on K&B1L plugs in the Hanno, more on the OS 'F' in the 140. There has been some discussion about newer synthetic oils in the modeling press, too. I am running S&W 15% (all synthetic) and have burned about 200 gallons to date with no problems. -Will
Posted on: 8/25/2012 6:32 PM by Author "flywilly"
in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11205971
RE: the rising and falling of the calypso
Beautiful airplane, very sad to see it destroyed. I hope you build another! Frank - Full bore into concrete does BAD things to engines and everything else. If you've ever attended a pattern contest held at a military field you get to fly off concrete - nice and smooth (I believe military runways are concrete that is 6 feet deep) and absolutely no 'give' if you crash. The '83 Nats at Westover AFB had interference problems on 1 or 2 frequencies resulting in some spectacular crashes - complete airframe and component destruction; a bit disheartening [:o].
Posted on: 7/27/2012 6:28 PM by Author "flywilly"
in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11171771
RE: Hanno Prettner´s plans
Hi CMJets, Do you have actual plans for the Sensation? I think the original was powered by an ST2500. The Sensation was kitted in several sizes by Yoshioka, but only the small (45 sized) Sensation made it to the USA and only in ARF form [:o]. Thanks, Will
Posted on: 7/23/2012 5:46 PM by Author "flywilly"
in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11166521
RE: OS 120 AX Special
Hi John, Glad the 'F' plug fixed your problem. I ran a 120AX a few summers ago in an Explorer 90 ARF with great results. Stock muffler, 15x10 apc, 15% nitro, stock OS plug (whatever came with the engine - I believe an 'A5') which lasted 130 flights (about 8 minute duration). I replaced the plug with a "cheap" Tower plug which is still in the engine (lasted another 70 flights before I retired the airplane). I have run K&B 1L plugs since '78 or '79 (mostly in rear exhaust 60s) with outstanding success. Over the years I have discovered that many 'balky' engine problems can be resolved simply by installing the 'right' plug and then getting the needle settings correct, of course. I hope you have many successful flights with your 120 Special. How do you like the engine (now that it is running right)? I love the velocity stack on it and may buy one just for that! Happy flying, Will
Posted on: 7/23/2012 5:41 PM by Author "flywilly"
in the forum "RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11166508
RE: Supertigre X 45 help
Hi Jake, I've had very good luck in the past getting headers made by Macs Products. You might also try 'Frequentflyer' here on RCU as I know he has made some headers in the past (and seems able to make just about anything - at least r/c pattern related). David, I'd love a laser cut Arrow 40 kit if your project gets that far. I had an MK Arrow 40 with an OS 40VF - it was a great flying airplane. I built it in 1989 and flew it until 5 or 6 years ago when the fuselage started falling apart - the wing is still good (I think). -Will
Posted on: 7/19/2012 5:57 PM by Author "flywilly"
in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11161794
RE: Making Molds of Classic Pattern Plane Fuselages & Parts to Keep them Alive for all of us to Enjoy!
Wolfgang Matt did design a successor to the Arrow: it was called the Granat and was ~10% larger than the original Arrow, but appeared to be essentially the same planform. Since he flew the Arrow at the '83 WC and then moved on to the Joker for the new Aresti pattern, I don't know exactly when it was designed (sometime in the early '80s). My guess is that Wolfgang discovered it was hard to improve on an already outstanding design.
Posted on: 7/17/2012 6:31 PM by Author "flywilly"
in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11159318
RE: MK Curare 40
Hey Bo, MK ceased production (went out of business) last December [:o]. The last 'new' kit they produced was the Topstar II electric. The Topstar 110 was the last new kit - available as an all balsa kit or with pre-sheeted foam wings and stab. Their most recent offerings were typical of MK quality, though designs kitted after around 2000 no longer included the excellent accessories we came to expect. I no specific knowledge of their reasons for closing their doors, but I suspect the increasing rarity of contest balsa (which has also become very expensive) may have contributed. Thankfully, I have a nice stock of MK kits to select from. This past winter I 'built' 3 kits of the MK Skystar 90 (I like the airplane!!). I cheated a bit cutting foam cores for the wing and stab, but recreated all other wood parts. Quite a bit of work. I have one kit built and ready for finishing. I guess I should post some photos. Regards, Will
Posted on: 6/26/2012 3:50 PM by Author "flywilly"
in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11132954
RE: TALON EXTREME by Randy Hicks Designs
Hey Brandon, Beautiful airplane... and for glow power (yeah!!). Are you planning to kit the Talon Extreme? Thanks, -Will B.
Posted on: 6/18/2012 2:37 PM by Author "flywilly"
in the forum "RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11122761
RE: MK Curare 40
MK closed their doors last December [:o]. The 'repro' kits are nice (Eureka) but not complete (lacking sheet wood, the 'cool' custom shaped wood parts and accessories); especially compared to the older MK kits like the Curare. The new glass kits available (like Frequentflier's) are actually better than what was available 30 years ago (better, lighter glasswork and CNC cut foam cores). It only takes 2 motivated bidders to drive the price up...
Posted on: 6/12/2012 2:32 PM by Author "flywilly"
in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11115930
RE: Anybody gonna do a EU1A build thread?
A few more thoughts - sealing the wood with hairspray definitely aids in reducing weight as the glue doesn't soak into the wood, but it is not essential to use hairspray to control weight. Mostly, it is the willingness to spread/remove the majority of the adhesive. I mark the sheeting where the high stress areas are (spars, retracts, etc.) and draw ribs on the outer 1/2 of the wing and only apply adhesive to LE, TE (including the ailerons) and spars. The nice aspect of Gorilla glue is that you can easily squeeze out a bead of glue along the lines drawn on your sheeting. Once the sheeting has adhesive, I use a damp cloth over the foam core (for the polyurethane glues) and drop on the sheeting. The wait time is the same for both epoxy and polyurethane; I like to give both a 24 hour cure. Gorilla glue sands pretty easily, too. I have not done any scientific testing, but the considerable expansion characteristic of Gorilla glue definitely increases the bonding surface of the foam. Neither epoxy nor polyurethane can overcome the effects of gravity under extreme conditions (vertical 'landings'). -Will
Posted on: 6/6/2012 7:32 AM by Author "flywilly"
in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11108573
RE: Anybody gonna do a EU1A build thread?
Use hairspray on the balsa sheeting before applying the adhesive. I believe the cheap stuff works fine. The hairspray seals the wood to prevent excessive adhesive absorption. I know a lot of guys who have been using Gorilla glue with great success. I'm a convert - no more mixing and it is very easy to spread/scrape.
Posted on: 6/4/2012 6:47 PM by Author "flywilly"
in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11106617
RE: Anybody gonna do a EU1A build thread?
Suggestions on how to sheet lighter or who to get to sheet them for you?
Posted on: 6/4/2012 7:23 AM by Author "flywilly"
in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11105753
RE: OS-120AX cookbook
Macs products also makes a wrap around header. It is a two piece design: adapter for the engine exhaust and a separate wrap-around pipe. It is a 'floating' type design meaning there is a rubber 'o' ring at the exhaust flange which the tubing fits over. Eliminates the header breakage issue when used with a soft mount. here's the link: http://www.macspro.com/cpftuhp.asp
Posted on: 5/1/2012 7:56 AM by Author "flywilly"
in the forum "RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11063984
RE: YS 60FR Header-pipe length ?
Hi Dan, I think you have enough information, if not just send me a round trip ticket and I'll make a 'house call' [:D]. The original Beetle was powered with the YS short stroke (as was the original Aurora). The YS long stroke came out very late in the '80s (and the AR, not until the early '90s). The YS 60FR responds very well to long pipes and larger props as it has a very flat torque curve. Ivan Kristensen ran the YS 60FR in his Summit series very successfully. As for grass runways and the Beetle, try an 11x11 or 11x10. Good Luck! -Will
Posted on: 4/30/2012 3:41 PM by Author "flywilly"
in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11063089
RE: YS 60FR Header-pipe length ?
That's a beautiful Beetle, Dan!!
Posted on: 4/29/2012 6:16 PM by Author "flywilly"
in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11061787
RE: YS 60FR Header-pipe length ?
Hi Dan, If you have an Hatori 605 pipe (short stroke pipe) I'd start at 14.5" to the first baffle if you plan to run a high rpm prop (11x7 or 11x8). If you wan to run a larger prop (11x11, 12x10) then I'd pull the pipe out to 16.5". As long as the engine is rich enough and the pipe is long enough then you will maintain rpm in sustained verticals. If not (and the engine is not going lean) then pull the pipe out another 1/2". Good luck, Will
Posted on: 4/28/2012 4:02 PM by Author "flywilly"
in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11060496
RE: Dirty Birdy versus Phoenix 7?
Hi Tim, Geez, you're really gonna tax my memory... better you than Uncle Sam [:D]. Trimmed properly (thrust, incidence and CG), they were excellent in vertical lines. Of course, that was back in the ballistic days; so, as long as your pull-up was straight you would draw a nice line pretty quickly - if held too long, though (airspeed drops) then you had to work to hold it. I always found it a bit easier to get good verticals with the Dirty Birdy with the stock (straight TE wing) as it was easier to see when you weren't perfectly vertical (the wing TE being perpendicular to the fuselage). Current pattern designs fly so much slower (relatively speaking) that you can make corrections during the 1/4 loop to vertical. I learned, from watching Ivan Kristensen, that a little more radius (softer entry - no 'hard' or square corners) made it much easier to make corrections without penalty (losing points [:@]). Color schemes can help a lot, too. Hope this helps, Will
Posted on: 4/26/2012 6:57 PM by Author "flywilly"
in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11058408
RE: YS 60SR
Cool, probably '78 version. How tight is the piston fit at TDC (top dead center). The early YS engines had VERY tight fitting pistons when new and required a good bit of break-in (Mine needed about 60 minutes of bench time).
Posted on: 4/26/2012 2:56 PM by Author "flywilly"
in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11058060
RE: Dirty Birdy versus Phoenix 7?
I've owned and flown both, though it's been a few decades. Both flew very well. I'd give the edge in rolling maneuvers to the P-7 due to the swept wing and the edge in looping maneuvers to the DB due to the straight trailing edge. I built a DB from scratch with about 1/2 the wing sweep of the P7 and was very happy with the results. I miss the 'good old days' lots of designs, a lot more pattern fliers who would let you try their airplane (at least in my club - and we had 10-12 pattern fliers) to help decide what to build next or modify...
Posted on: 4/26/2012 2:45 PM by Author "flywilly"
in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11058035
RE: YS 60SR
Very nice engine! Late '70s version, probably one of the first production YS engines. Note the machined 2-piece case versus the later sandcast, 1-piece case. Also, the fuel delivery system looks like the older design (before YS made engines and just manufactured the pump/regulator assembly for other engines). As for the pressure nipple in the muffler; my only thought is that they intended it to be sold for other engines as well. The muffler mounting/adaptor plate also hints at the aftermarket sales possibility. Mounted in an MK Akromaster? -Will PS It probably had excellent performance - it is clearly Schnuerle ported based on the casting port 'bumps' seen on the front,rear and left side of the engine. Is it ringed or ABC? I'm guessing: ringed.
Posted on: 4/26/2012 2:34 PM by Author "flywilly"
in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11058024
RE: kit shipping costs
Hi Scott, First, I suggest you try to get everything in one box: both Dick Hanson and R/C City would ship in a box long enough for the fuselage and tall enough for the wing cores at the root chord as they would be placed vertically (usually TE on the bottom) on either side of the fuselage. Stab and rudder cores are easy to add along with additional packing material (peanuts, bubble wrap or whatever). I have shipped a couple of kits (similar in size to your Conquest) in one box via FedEx ground recently and the cost was between $35 and $40 for each. I know that the shipping charge for the Focus Sport (110 size) was a flat $50. About a year ago I tried shipping in separate boxes and it was cheaper to go with one larger box (another 60 sized pattern kit). I hope this helps. Regards, Will
Posted on: 4/25/2012 7:53 AM by Author "flywilly"
in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11056054
RE: WWII Spitfires Full Scale - NIP
Sooooo, they'll get them back to England and then we'll see them on ebay??[:D][:D] Wayyyy outta my price range!
Posted on: 4/20/2012 7:36 AM by Author "flywilly"
in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11049776
RE: Dream 110 Electric Conversion
Hey Cloudmaster, Just an FYI, I had a Dream 110 a few years ago and powered it with an OS 120ax. It flew great with that engine, but any less power would be disappointing at the very least; so convert accordingly. It is a good choice for conversion to electric as it is (or at least mine was) built quite light for an arf. You will probably want to cut a hatch in the top for battery access, especially since it has a 1-piece wing. Good Luck! -Will
Posted on: 4/18/2012 2:16 PM by Author "flywilly"
in the forum "Electric Pattern Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11047550
RE: Making Molds of Classic Pattern Plane Fuselages & Parts to Keep them Alive for all of us to Enjoy!
Hi Greg, Mutchler's Hobbies (in Indiana, USA) used to distribute pattern kits made by FK. They were direct copies of the Magic (Phoenix), Curare (Career), Arrow (Arcomaster), and 1 or 2 others which I can't remember at the moment. I don't know if they were using the Hobby Barn molds for the fuselages or if they were made by somebody else. If they used the Hobby Barn molds, then everything I said above regarding the glass Magic is true. If not, then the wing incidence in your Magic maybe correct. I think I have a digital image of the MK plans, if so, I will add them here. -Will
Posted on: 4/17/2012 7:26 AM by Author "flywilly"
in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11045581
RE: Making Molds of Classic Pattern Plane Fuselages & Parts to Keep them Alive for all of us to Enjoy!
Hi Greg, First, I've seen (and competed against) the stock Hobby Barn Magic. The biggest problem it had was pitch coupling with the rudder (which could be mixed out with current radios). Here is the list of differences I found comparing the Hobby Barn Fuselage to the MK plans: 1) Hobby Barn (HB) fuselage 3/8" shorter than MK 2) HB wing root at fuselage 1/4" longer than MK 3) MK Magic had +0.75 degrees positive incidence for both the Wing and stab - aligning the HB fuselage so the engine thrust line matched the MK plans and the stab centerline matched the MK plans then the HB wing leading edge is 3/16" higher (an additional 1.5 degrees positive incidence) than the MK wing LE. 4) HB stab root at fuselage side is 3/8" longer than MK I do not know what HB called for as far as stab anhedral and wing dihedral, but the MK values are: Anhedral - 110mm; wing dihedral - 70mm The excess positive incidence is the major culprit (if not the exclusive cause) of the rudder/pitch coupling. I hope this helps. Post some photos! Regards, Will
Posted on: 4/16/2012 6:09 PM by Author "flywilly"
in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11044898
RE: Making Molds of Classic Pattern Plane Fuselages & Parts to Keep them Alive for all of us to Enjoy!
Hi Greg, The leading edge of the wing needs to be 1.5 degrees lower than when fitted to the fuselage - meaning you will have a large gap to fill under the glass wing fillets at the leading edge, tapering back to the trailing edge. I posted a bunch of measurements on another thread here which I will try to find regarding the glass Magic versus the MK Magic. -Will
Posted on: 4/15/2012 3:50 PM by Author "flywilly"
in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11043201
RE: focus II
Great flying airplane! Still competitive in every class but FAI I would say. It is an older design and has a slightly outdated propulsion system as electric power seems to be the way to go these days. If you are planning to keep it, you will not be disappointed. Selling it is hard to predict. There is still a market, but you may have to ship which is a bit of a pain. What are the servos? FYI, a NIB OS 140RX just sold on ebay for a paltry $165; I guess I'll be keeping mine. -Will
Posted on: 4/13/2012 2:25 PM by Author "flywilly"
in the forum "RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11040629
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