RE: fixing prop
[quote]ORIGINAL: iflircaircraft Put it in a vise at the hub and carefully break both tips off!! Use the tips for epoxy mixers. Clean them off after each use and they will pay for themselves. [/quote] Table Saw! zip-zip[:D]
Posted on: 11/19/2009 10:14 PM by Author "freakingfast" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9266517

RE: KARBONITE GEARS
I have a full set of servos with Karbonite in a Goldberg Tiger II (40 size) and havent had problems in that plane. I fly it like I trying to rip the wings off for about 300+ flights and the servos are still tight. The plane will not fly again till it's recovered as I can no longer keep the edges tacked down, it has flown that much. However, on a P-51 mustang I robed the metal gear servos for another project and replaced them with the Karbonite type. Unfortunately, the Karbonite geared servos striped gears by every third flight. Apparently, there was some previously unknown momentary or inaudible flutter that they couldn't deal with, yet the mg servos handled without complaint for countless flights. If every thing is as it should be, I think the Karbonite geared servos will perform fine, However if you have problems like touch of flutter, bump or kick a control surface or hard stall by accident, you don't have that extra margin of survival that a metal gear may give you. Will I buy Karbonite geared servos again? No. Only metal gear or titanium gear Hitec from now on, (except the 625MG[sm=thumbs_down.gif]) The most impressive metal gear servo I've found is the Hitec HS5985MG [sm=thumbs_up.gif]for hard flying planes 40 to 90 size. They wear well, last and take a hit (accident) very well, they wear almost as well as the titanium gear Hitec.
Posted on: 11/19/2009 9:23 PM by Author "freakingfast" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9266378

RE: Need speed proppeller,Patriot,O.S.95AX
[quote]ORIGINAL: Bigdaddy1963 2.9HP. @15000        Where can I find this program at?                              Thank You                                      Bob [/quote] First off, I don’t think you’ll get anywhere near the 2.9 hp advertised by OS, even on a tuned pipe. In fact, Id bet it won’t be very happy at 15K either, especially considering it’s an AX series, that is if it lives up to the recent pattern of lowering its peak hp speed compared similar sized former OS models. By no means does this mean it’s an inferior engine, you just need to realize where it makes its power. The only engines that I have found to live up to OS’s horsepower rating are the Heli and DF engines. Real world I’d expect the best power around 11000 rpm with 1.8hp on stock muffler and on tuned pipe 12500 rpm with 2.3 hp from the data that I used to extrapolate the numbers. These Rpm's will leave room to unload into if everything is matched right. Incidentally, it’s very close in performance to the older 91FX, just think lower RPM for the AX (more pitch). The props I’d try for the Patriot XL are the APC pattern 12X10, 12X11, 12X12 pattern and Master Airscrew 12X8 S-2 series. Consider shutting off the engine to land.[:)] The best program I’ve found to help is the “Prop power calculator� http://www.mvvs.nl/ Left column, click on “utilities�. I find it far more accurate than “Thrusthp� Some links that may help get you an idea where the power is: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_8787403/mpage_4/tm.htm http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_8169105/tm.htm Hope this helps Bob.
Posted on: 11/19/2009 12:26 AM by Author "freakingfast" in the forum "Extreme Speed Prop Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9264329

RE: OS 46 VX DF engine conclusions
There must be a dozen props they must have missed putting on the list at APC since the got a new webpage. Data entry error my guess, missed sales are costly.
Posted on: 11/15/2009 11:21 PM by Author "freakingfast" in the forum "Extreme Speed Prop Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9256698

RE: Diamond dust with os .46 df (props)????
From OS's website: "With advanced technology that allows it to produce 25% more power than the 46VR-DF, O.S.' new 46VX-DF is perfect for pilots of medium-size jets." Personally, I don't think its quite that much difference. Maybe 10-15% at most.
Posted on: 11/15/2009 8:31 PM by Author "freakingfast" in the forum "Extreme Speed Prop Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9256199

RE: new design: Strega 45
At first I thought that the engine in post 509 & 510 was an old 46 df, but now I think its a 91 DF engine....Your an animal Rob![:D] Well, I guess you need to find Vne if your going to put these out.
Posted on: 11/15/2009 5:41 PM by Author "freakingfast" in the forum "Extreme Speed Prop Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9255788

RE: new design: Strega 45
[quote]ORIGINAL: Remklep It is an OS .46 VX-DF, I also bought a Hatori tuned pipe. The problem is the crankshaft is too short for a prop, I have a modified nut that would allow me to fit a prop, but am not sure if it is strong enough. Anyone have any experience modding ducted fan engines for props? Danny [/quote] You will need a “short shaft adaptor� Tru Turn part number TT-0141-A) is what you’ll need. Ream out the CARBON prop to fit the short shaft adapter. Turn the prop and hold the prop ream tool stationary for best hole concentricity than balance. Start reaming from the engine side of the prop. Take your time. http://www.truturn.com/product_line.html Enter the part number in their search window. You may need a header to tune that pipe so you can run the carbon props that it needs. Here are links to help: Rob's hela fast Ashely http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_7903617/mpage_1/key_/tm.htm http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_7645422/tm.htm
Posted on: 11/15/2009 10:36 AM by Author "freakingfast" in the forum "Extreme Speed Prop Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9255014

RE: new design: Strega 45
[quote]ORIGINAL: RocketRob What I am finding a bit shocking and I can imagine you experienced guys nodding knowingly is, The amount of time and effort involved in getting a marketable kit. [/quote] Getting a "system down" will help a bit, but we know it's a lot of work, we take our hats off to you sir![sm=thumbs_up.gif]
Posted on: 11/14/2009 8:29 PM by Author "freakingfast" in the forum "Extreme Speed Prop Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9254068

RE: Evolution 1.00NX Flight Test Report + Hints and Tips
On the 100's, some early units were missing or needed a O-ring under the carb from what I have gathered. I have several 46NT's and I have run the heck out of them, only needing bearing changes, they're still as strong as they ever were. I don't know if they have recently corrected the bearing problems that many of the engine have in common with OS, TT and others. and that is the use of cheap bearings.(OS does use high quality bearings in Heli and ducted fan engines) Inspect at the end of the day by pulling and tuning the prop. If it's a little rough/gritty get on order some stainless bearings that use plastic retainers from RC Bearings.com. (fair prices) I have not had much luck with ceramic hybrid bearings.
Posted on: 11/2/2009 12:17 PM by Author "freakingfast" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9222497

RE: 737 near mid air video
I'm sure the vortices from the full scale set your RC into a loop at that distance. [:D] Hey, I'm kidding, lighten up.
Posted on: 11/2/2009 1:32 AM by Author "freakingfast" in the forum "Aerial Photography and Video"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9221777

RE: FAA COA
John, the FAA is a self perpetuating bureaucracy as you may have realize after two years of contact. And like any bureaucracy, the individuals within it will step on or setup anyone on the inside (or outside) to further their career. 1# They love to create new areas of regulation....if you don't make noise, but you feed into it. 2# People move in and out of departments, your project has a very high likelihood of being forgotten or eliminated with a stroke of a pen. 3# A large corporation with deep pockets will bump you into the sidelines using your ideas and groundwork. Ive seen this time and time again with good people dealing with agency's in this government, it's high risk. All I'm saying is don't quit your day job and don't put your savings into it....be ready.....wait for it......ta-da.
Posted on: 11/2/2009 1:16 AM by Author "freakingfast" in the forum "Aerial Photography and Video"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9221757

RE: MACS ONE PIECE MUFFLER-OS55x(#6720)
They don't come apart either and the smoke trail is more confined which can lead to a cleaner fuselage. Like w8ye already stated, I haven't seen more than stock power.
Posted on: 11/1/2009 9:58 PM by Author "freakingfast" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9221389

RE: Laser arrow, 91vrdf video
Very nice! I didn't know the Laser Arrow could take that kind of power, that's a nice surprise. Whose carbon prop are you using? My folks from are from Aalborg, DK
Posted on: 11/1/2009 9:38 AM by Author "freakingfast" in the forum "Extreme Speed Prop Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9219746

RE: SCREAMIN' DEMON DOES 202 MPH!!!
If you got the right "geek" they would have gotten it. Sounds like you found a bunch of non-geeks.[8|] Hurry up, I want to hear that sucka scream!
Posted on: 10/31/2009 1:49 AM by Author "freakingfast" in the forum "Extreme Speed Prop Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9216889

RE: Diamond dust with os .46 df (props)????
Nick, see the info I left at the other thread.
Posted on: 10/31/2009 1:21 AM by Author "freakingfast" in the forum "Extreme Speed Prop Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9216865

RE: OS 46 VX DF engine conclusions
Well let’s see. It looks like you are not running a header, but just the factory flange, so I think you are too short for even the APC 7.4X8.25 carbon. I’d use a Macs #3521 15 degree fuse top header. Both header and pipe may need to be cut so that you don't end up with the coupling at the turn on the header and to get the 9 ½� distance from center of piston to the large diameter on the pipe apex (this is a reference length). But work your length down on your own since your pipe may be a bit different (start 1/2� longer). On your pipe the measured distance is where the big part starts to get small again (exhaust end), Your pressure tap is not at the apex, this may give you problems with even fuel pressure throughout the operating range, only time will tell. This header will let you run a 8oz. fuel tank (Sullivan #SS-8), when it’s running right it’ll suck that tank down in 3 minutes if you are running 30% nitro. Use real Du-Bro ¼� foam rubber under the whole tank bottom and smaller pads around the sides to keep it isolated. Don’t have the hold down strap too tight or the fuel will foam. I use a real OS bubble-less clunk. Another option is a bladder tank and you can hard mount it down. I’ve never needed a bladder tank. When you reach high rpm’s these two tank set-ups are a must. Id bet that you have only a few threads engaging that prop nut on that small-thin sport prop. And if you modified that prop to get more threads, you’re lucky the engine didn’t come alive. Thankfully the tuned length was way too short for those props you listed. When you go to the carbon you will need a “short shaft adaptor� (Tru Turn part number TT-0141-A) is what you’ll need. Ream out the prop to fit the short shaft adapter. Turn the prop and hold the prop ream tool stationary for best hole concentricity than balance. Start reaming from the engine side of the prop. Take your time. I hope you sealed the engine mount area with epoxy, the fuel will eventually eat away at the CA. If not, remove the engine and use K-2r cleaner. Used in moderation can lift the surface oil. Use thin CA in the edges of the mounting holes and engine cut out to help keep the wood from crushing. Seal with epoxy when done. Check engine mount screws periodically for tightness. I’m 51 and my eyes need extreme contrast from top to bottom so that I know what’s what. There’s not much time to decide on the right move to do at the speeds you are about to be traveling. This is what it should sound like, this is an old clip seen here before. The poor guy had a devil of a time keeping it in the frame and was afraid to go past the fence LOL. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5m0t925_elc I hope info this helps. Karl
Posted on: 10/31/2009 1:19 AM by Author "freakingfast" in the forum "Extreme Speed Prop Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9216864

RE: Diamond dust with os .46 df (props)????
Hey Rob, do you still fly the Ashely?
Posted on: 10/30/2009 10:57 PM by Author "freakingfast" in the forum "Extreme Speed Prop Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9216626

RE: Diamond dust with os .46 df (props)????
This link will help: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7645422 oops, I see Rob posted the same link. Your pipe looks short if anything, so don't cut till you run the correct prop. Those small hub non pylon props(sport) are a bomb waiting to go off, luckily you had too much prop to reach the high rpm. You need APC carbon props! Mac’s pipes and headers are what I use. The #1050 Quiet pipe, #1250 Muffled and the 1150 tuned (noisy) I have all tried and all work well! To my biggest surprise the quiet pipe rendered the most speed, at least measured on the ground. The best average pipe setting was 9 ½� from center of piston to the large diameter on the pipe. The highest speed measured was 24,500 RPM (on ground) spinning a APC carbon (LP 74825C) 7.4X 8.25 on Power Master 30%Heli fuel. K&B HP glow plugs Have fun!
Posted on: 10/30/2009 10:55 PM by Author "freakingfast" in the forum "Extreme Speed Prop Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9216384

RE: Problem problem problem
I think your fuel line slipped off inside the tank. To test for this, just put a little fuel in and try to run it. No go? Than that's it.
Posted on: 10/30/2009 8:39 AM by Author "freakingfast" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9214625

RE: Jett 46
If it runs that good, don't muck with it. Stick it on a speed plane and go like heck. Sound like the carb is good for full speed and shutdown....Perfect!
Posted on: 10/27/2009 7:37 PM by Author "freakingfast" in the forum "Extreme Speed Prop Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9207291

RE: Deep Impact
Your avatar The Dead Terrorist is funny "I killlll yooouuu!"[sm=lol.gif]
Posted on: 10/24/2009 10:36 PM by Author "freakingfast" in the forum "Crash & Rebuild"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9199598

Deep Impact
While practicing for the Two Minute Tango warbird race, I was in the third flight of the day with my WM P-51when it happened. I went out a ways further than normal and suddenly lost all control. It went up in a long rolling arc, then strait down at full throttle. The impact from where I stood looked like a confetti popper went off. Upon arriving at the impact area I found a debris field but no engine. I looked around and then saw the rear tip of the tuned pipe sticking out of the ground. There was this round hole in the ground (the fuselage) and two lines from each side (the wings). I pulled on the pipe and slowly the unforgiving earth released its hold on the OS 70 heli engine. It seems that the receiver had diminished range and was the cause of the crash. There was no hint of impending problems. The battery pack was still connected to the switch and receiver however the inertia from impact had moved the switch to the off position. The pack was bent, but the tabs were still connected so it was tested and produced 6.3 V @ 2 amp load. The receiver and servos all function normally with no apparent damage! Of course the receiver will be junked and the servos sent in for inspection. The engine looks great! Amazingly, no dirt was ingested past the throat of the carb even thou it was full open. The crank port was in the closed position at impact. The rear cover was removed and there was a scooch mark where the crank pushed on it. Interestingly the mark shows impact and stop rotation, about 15 degrees. If I push on the crank there is a tiny detent in the bearing at one point but none when pulled as in running mode. The carb was taken apart to clean. The heat insulator collar came off and stayed in the engine side but the carb will still clamp into position and seal so no biggie. The header and pipe got modified. Ill cut off the damage part of the pipe and use a longer header to achieve the same tuned length. Ill bench it and see if the crank lets go or see how the bearings are. I’m not too sad to see the plane go to Valhalla because it was cursed ever since it took it out of the box. It seemed like the thing was always trying new ways to self terminate. It’s just sad to miss the last race of the year.
Posted on: 10/24/2009 10:13 PM by Author "freakingfast" in the forum "Crash & Rebuild"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9199544

Deep Impact
While practicing for the Two Minute Tango warbird race, I was in the third flight of the day with my WM P-51when it happened. I went out a ways further than normal and suddenly lost all control. It went up in a long rolling arc, then strait down at full throttle. The impact from where I stood looked like a confetti popper went off. Upon arriving at the impact area I found a debris field but no engine. I looked around and then saw the rear tip of the tuned pipe sticking out of the ground. There was this round hole in the ground (the fuselage) and two lines from each side (the wings). I pulled on the pipe and slowly the unforgiving earth released its hold on the OS 70 heli engine. It seems that the receiver had diminished range and was the cause of the crash. There was no hint of impending problems. The battery pack was still connected to the switch and receiver however the inertia from impact had move the switch to the off position. The pack was bent, but the tabs were still connected so it was tested and produced 6.3 V @ 2 amp load. The receiver and servos all function normally with no apparent damage! Of course the receiver will be junked and the servos sent in for inspection. The engine looks great! Amazingly, no dirt was ingested past the throat of the carb even thou it was full open. The crank port was in the closed position at impact. The rear cover was removed and there was a scooch mark where the crank pushed on it. Interestingly the mark shows impact and stop rotation, about 15 degrees. If I push on the crank there is a tiny detent at one point in the bearings but none when pulled as in running mode. The carb was taken apart to clean. The heat insulator collar came off and stayed in the engine side but the carb will still clamp into position and seal so no biggie. The header and pipe got modified. Ill cut off the damage part of the pipe and use a longer header to achieve the same tuned length. Ill bench it and see if the crank lets go or see how the bearings are. I’m not too sad to see the plane go to Valhalla because it was cursed ever since it took it out of the box. It seemed like the thing was always trying new ways to self terminate. It’s just sad to miss the last race of the year.
Posted on: 10/24/2009 9:58 PM by Author "freakingfast" in the forum "Extreme Speed Prop Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9199504

RE: Plug temperature
[quote]ORIGINAL: Oldbob I have found that by using the hottest glow plug I can find and running the engine rich produces the most top end power in the air without hurting the engine. So far I have found the Merlin Hot Plug to be the hottest, but I wonder, is there another that is hotter? Bob [/quote] Bob, this may have worked on your engine(s), but you shouldn't make a "blanket statement" for others to follow. Every engine and installation is a law unto itself. Glow plug selection depends on interacting factors of compression ratio, porting, exhaust scavenging, nitro content and engine load to name a few. The best analogy I can give you to think of, is to relate hot and cold glow plugs as to timing advance and retarding in a spark ignition engine. Hot= advance, cold=retard, realize this example is over simplified. In most of my engines I have gone to colder than recommend plugs to gain performance when I push them to the limit. Do I run rich, sure if the engine wants it. How about 8oz. of 30% fuel in three minutes in a 46 size DF engine. Or 16oz. of 30% in 5 minutes in a 70heli engine mounted in a full race WM P-51 mustang. A hot plug would last only seconds in those engines, the right one can last a gallon or so. I now only use K&B brand glow plugs. HD type (like #8 but tougher ) or HP type (cool, high nitro) or Enya #5 in a pinch(cool).
Posted on: 10/24/2009 12:10 AM by Author "freakingfast" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9197567

RE: Tank foaming
Hey guys! I'm glad WRM got it working. A couple things, the Dubro filtered clunk does not fight foaming as well as the very pricey OS bubbleless clunk, you get what you pay for. Bubbleless clunks work very well for moderate foaming, but not if the tank is completely froth, it has its limits. When its working correctly they can empty the tank almost to the very last drop before it lets air in. They are now standard equipment in all my planes. I've started seeing guys using close cell polyethylene foam, but the foam rubber that Dubro or Hobico at sells at the LHS works the best.
Posted on: 10/20/2009 8:06 AM by Author "freakingfast" in the forum "Profile and Fun Flying Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9187590

RE: OS 55 AX dead sticks
The 13X6 is a lot of prop. IMHO it's overloading/lunging the engine and can over heat it. The only advantage to that large of prop is lower noise which seems to be a big deal in Japan. The props listed in the 55's owner's manual has been the topic of more than a few discussions. A lot of guys like the 12X5 for 3D or acrobatic and are leaving the 13X4 and 12.25 X 3.75. For sport some are using APC 11X6 or 11X7, but my personal favorite is the Master Airscrew 11X7 S-2 series (gray scimitar shape, not the black prop). That prop visibly out performed the APC in both speed and vertical climb in a Tiger II. It's a rare feat to out perform an APC prop, but it happens. The #8 should work well with a good 15% nito and synth + castor oil type fuel. I was a die hard OS #8 glow plug fan till I had bought a whole sheet of them and most were bad (poor center pin weld). I have since started using K&B HD plugs for applications that used #8's and I'm never going back. http://www.mecoa.com/acc/glowplug/glowplug.htm So good they are currently out of stock. Give them a week or two, I have an order waiting myself. Now that the weather cooled down there can be some hidden issues that went away and wont pop up till it's hot again. Cowled engines can be on the verge of over heating. Something to remember. The inlet area should be 1/3rd the size(smaller)of the outlet area(larger). The inlet should be centered in front of the cylinder. Other inlets or off center inlets should be blocked, as they can do more harm than good if you cant aesthetically increase the outlet area. The outlet should be as far to the rear of the cowling as possible, just in front/at the firewall. Some muffler tunnels in the fuselage may be too constricting so the rear of the cowling needs to be opened up. Don't get carried away with cutting too much clearance if the cylinder head must poke through, except right in front of it unless you don't have another inlet further ahead. So many have dead sticks because of this. You'd be surprised at how small an cooling inlet hole can be if the rules are observed. The area the size of a nickle is more than plenty for a 55. Hope this helps.
Posted on: 10/19/2009 8:04 AM by Author "freakingfast" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9183355

RE: OS 55ax
The highest I've ever seen a 55AX turn an APC 11X7 with 15% is 13,900, and that was after going through a box of assorted correct sized tuned pipes and lots header trimming/spacing. Perhaps it would have turned another 400 on 30% with an OS A5 (#10) or K&B HP glow plug. Cool dry air will raise the numbers about 150 at the most. So 14,400 would be about the best case possible speed that you could ever see this engine turn with that prop and that's an incredible 1.9 hp. Tach-ing an engine into a strong head wind will raise the numbers dramatically.....of course that doesn't count [:D]
Posted on: 10/18/2009 11:45 PM by Author "freakingfast" in the forum "Tachometer Readings"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9184210

RE: OS 55ax
Those numbers are inline with stock muffler with baffle performance levels. The 11X7 would have been 12,100 at that rate.
Posted on: 10/18/2009 11:15 PM by Author "freakingfast" in the forum "Tachometer Readings"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9184144

RE: 6V with 4.8 wall wart
Never had luck using a JR 4.8v wall-wart to fully charge a 6v (5cell pack). Discharge test nowhere close. Just not safe IMHO.
Posted on: 10/18/2009 6:23 PM by Author "freakingfast" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9183425

RE: OPS .65 bench run.. finally!
The RC hobby can be dangerous to us and our pets. Good house keeping and dust control is a must. MJD has a great idea, and lfinney is right about a HEPA filter. I'm allergic to CA fumes, balsa & epoxy dust. CA fumes, even if you cant smell it anymore, is present in a closed house for days. I do my CA work outside wearing a filter cartridge painting mask in case the wind changes, I'm that allergic. I than leave what I was gluing outside for a day in a protected spot. The dust from epoxy is very toxic to cats and dogs. If they walk across the dust they get it on their feet and when they clean their feet they ingest it. I'm told it acts on the organs much like heavy metals poisoning. Who hasn't really laid into something that you CA-ed with a Dremel drum or disk sander and seen the smoke and got a tiny whiff of it in the eyes or nose. One of the main components of that smoke is cyanide! I use to race rc boats and when you got a new prop you had to clean and shape it. You had to be careful of the dust because the props contain beryllium and small amounts inhaled can cause a type of lung cancer called berylliosis. Use masks, filter, gloves, ventilation and house keeping or after a while you'll wish you did and it's too late.
Posted on: 10/18/2009 9:37 AM by Author "freakingfast" in the forum "Extreme Speed Prop Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9182396