RE: TT .39 heli engine ruens glow plugs
You guy's are gona laugh, but once I puled some bearings that were rough, only to realize I didn't have those sizes on hand but I had to fly an event the next day. I noticed the balls were OK, only the races were bad when turned and pushed to one side but not the other. Sooooo, I turned it around and re-installed it planning to replace it ASAP. The darned thing lasted a surprisingly long time. No, I don't recommend this, I got away with it once.
Posted on: 9/10/2012 9:08 PM by Author "freakingfast" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11224571

RE: Almost Sod-Rocketed Her Today
You said the key word "wind break". While above the cornfield, you held the sticks trimmed for your approach based on the wind up there. Then as you dropped below and entered the wind protected area, your air speed dropped radically making it mushy in the turbulence of the protected area. On top of that the aileron/rudder were in in the wrong spot once you were got there as you found out. And what should have been the final nail, ya dumb thumb it off the deck yet pulled it off .. You lucky so and so [:)] Yeah most of us have been there, but not always that lucky.,,or was it skill[;)] Next time a bit more air speed as you descend into those conditions.
Posted on: 9/3/2012 9:00 PM by Author "freakingfast" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11216451

RE: What to use to hold screws in?
Blue or red Loctite works best if you clean out the hole and fastener first with acetone so that it's free of oils. Use caution (safety glasses) when blowing the acetone out of the hole(s). In the eyes that stuff hurts like a ........ ........
Posted on: 8/26/2012 1:41 PM by Author "freakingfast" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11206672

RE: Mystery Beltdrive for FS-91 and FX91
It could be the manufacturer just messed up and supplied a dive pulley with the wrong hole in it, and that's why it's like new.
Posted on: 8/20/2012 8:24 PM by Author "freakingfast" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11200420

RE: Glow engine woes...
This could just be a bad glow plug. The plating on the element is gone or the element is contaminated. As already suggested, try a fresh OS "F" plug before anything else.
Posted on: 8/19/2012 4:50 PM by Author "freakingfast" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11199022

RE: screamin demon question
[quote]ORIGINAL: smoknrv4 +1 for using Balsarite! Except I can't get it anymore here in Canada.:( [/quote] I think it's the same thing for the Socialist state of Kalifornia. Comrade, make a shopping list of the "good stuff" that can't be purchased in your area, and if you or a buddy are going south of the border you know what you need to do. Nevada is my go to state.
Posted on: 8/18/2012 2:12 PM by Author "freakingfast" in the forum "Extreme Speed Prop Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11198027

RE: Uses for obsolete DF engines.
[quote]ORIGINAL: airraptor I would do a belt drive set up. this way you could use regular props and less noise than gear drive. you can get belts and cogs from any of the larger 1/6-1/4 scale on/off road 4 wheel drive cars. [/quote] There are advantages to belt drives, such as same direction shaft rotation, and a bit less noise,(but I kinda like the gear whine/turbine sound[:D]) The Belt is 90% efficient, whereas gears are 85%(Prop-Power-Calculator). There is the minimum arc of contact on the smaller drive pulley and tension issues. Then finding the right belt length to keep things close. That's where I ran into problems.
Posted on: 8/16/2012 7:17 PM by Author "freakingfast" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11196351

RE: Uses for obsolete DF engines.
[quote]ORIGINAL: stuntflyr How high is the timing? We use 155 for C/L Stunt ships on tuned pipes using them as governors with low pitch props. Used to use 46 VF's in the late 80's/early 90's and they were only 140 degrees. Learned later that 155 was even better. Inefficiency is what you make of it! Chris... [/quote] I've spent (wasted?) a lot of time with many different props, tuned pipes, header lengths. Yes you can tune it for lower rpm, but I have other engines that do that job better, so for me it's a waste. I've tried the gamut of pylon props, (don't go there, all sizes loose tips, see pics) all the way up to the APC#LP88975 Pylon 8.8X9.75 (hole reamed out to .375� for short shaft adapter). I wasn't thrilled with going to 9" sport props with a small hub that would have to drilled out.
Posted on: 8/16/2012 4:49 AM by Author "freakingfast" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11195335

RE: Twin Cylinder nitro engines?
Is that homemade/modified Enya boxer a paperweight ? If the rods use a common crank pin, would there be any case/primary pressure ?
Posted on: 8/14/2012 8:50 PM by Author "freakingfast" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11193915

RE: OS 55
[quote]ORIGINAL: jeffk464 Hey, thanks for the info, I'll try the 12x5 on 10% and see how it pulls. My flight time is ridiculous with this plane by the way, I fly ten minutes and still have half a tank. [/quote] Be warned your flight time may diminish some with the better performance prop, there's never a free lunch is there. I asked about the engine's position because I was wondering how the cooling was. That's a very good location for the carburetor and muffler, overall best choice. Should the engine ever sag (not lean) or seem hot, block opposite opening in the cowl and the big one on the chin with some clear plastic or black painted balsa. Make sure there is at least 3 times the outlet area on the bottom than there is inlet area. This sagging may become more evident in a hover or performing continuous high power maneuvers while not having a lot of froward speed (ram air).
Posted on: 8/12/2012 10:19 AM by Author "freakingfast" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11190456

RE: OS 55
[quote]ORIGINAL: jeffk464 I can vouch for that, I'm running the recommended 13x6 apc on mine and only get just shy of 10,000rpm at 4500' elevation. That being said it does turn it, I heard that OS designed the AX series to get around very strict noise regulations in Japan and so were shooting for higher torque lower rpm. I need to bump my fuel from 10 to 20% and probably go 12X6 or 13X4 apc to get the power I want, but even as it is it pulls my phoenix jupiter pretty well. Or I could just move back to sea level :) [/quote] Yes it does turn the props in the manual, but way off the peak hp rpm. Your engine will come alive with either of the green prop's, however I'd lean towards the 12X5 on this plane, hover, punch and speed, surprisingly better than the logical 13"+ disk area props. Your 4500' of elevation is a much less of a factor than prop selection. Don't waste your money and flight time on more nitro, the minimal gains aren't worth it. For best engine mid range/transition, leave the baffle in the muffler. How is your engine oriented ("O" clock)?
Posted on: 8/11/2012 9:28 PM by Author "freakingfast" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11189966

RE: Uses for obsolete DF engines.
[quote]ORIGINAL: Sport_Pilot The DF engines never lasted long at those high speeds.  I bet they would run well at somewhat lower speeds.   I would overprop them to just below 20,000, maybe less. [/quote] I cannot speak for the .91 or larger engines as yet because I have not acquired the run time as yet to form a longevity conclusion. As for the OS 46VXDF, it should be propped (APC 7.4X8.1 carbon) to run no less than 24,000 on the ground and allowed to unload 25 to 26,000 in the air. [i]Sweet music[/i][:D] I have three of these engines that I use on Diamond Dust deltas and rotate them out for bearing changes. These engines consume up to an amazing 10 gallons of 30% mostly over 25,000 RPM on the same bearings, IF YOU Flush/RUN THE ENGINE ON FIA FUEL AT END OF DAY, if not the bearings last about a gallon. Been there, done that when I was too lazy to lug the FAI fuel, and paid for it later. K&B HD glow plugs last about 1 1/2 gallons at which point they must be retired due to poor idle and top end (frosted). At the third bearing change the pinch (true ABC) is is perfect. The only notable wear is on the crank shaft at the rear bearing area where the inner race is too loose and Loctite® 680™ Retaining Compound must be used limit further wear. To de-tune these engines i.e. larger prop/longer header, is highly inefficient and you would be far better off running a Jett 56 or Evolution 60 in the case of the 46VXDF and in place of the 91VRDF, use a propped YS 91SR-3DS heli engine. DF engines are Thoroughbreds with high timing and loose considerable power outside of their sweet spot. One last note, my 46DF engines were never in a duct and were always hand launched so no runway dust was ever ingested, could this contribute to longevity ? Sure!
Posted on: 8/11/2012 2:44 PM by Author "freakingfast" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11189629

RE: OS 55
The only thing bad about about the 55 is the manual. Unrealistic prop recommendations. Proven props from speed, sport and 3-D. APC 10X10, 10X9, 11X6,[color=#00FF00] Master Airscrew11X7 S-2 series[/color], APC 11X7, [color=#00FF00]12X5[/color] 13X4.[color=#00FF00]these two are my favoites[/color]
Posted on: 8/8/2012 8:53 PM by Author "freakingfast" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11186426

RE: Uses for obsolete DF engines.
[quote]ORIGINAL: AmishWarlord I have a NIB 91 small head OS DF engine. I don't think I'll be using it for a jet since EDF's and Turbines are better than a piston engine in a fan. I was thinking of making some kind of geared set up where the engine could run at it's 22,000 RPM and run a counter rotating prop set up in a Kyushu Shinden. Or in some kind of speed plane like a tricked out 200 MPH Piper Cub. :)th What other kinds of uses can you guys think of for this engine or the other unused DF engines? [/quote] Due to prop diameter/tip speed limitations, only way to use these engines efficiently on anything dirtier than a cleaned up 40 size warbird is to run a gear reduction drive, but you'll have to build it. You can get an idea for gear face/width needed by up sizing a marine 45 (10 mm wide) using the SWAG method (Scientific Wild A$$ Guess). Steel and delrin gear blanks can be found in the Berg catalog, figure out your prop/application, then do your gear ratio. For space, the drive hub is replaced with the steel gear. The marine gearbox rails are overly bulky, there is another way but you will need your thinking cap. http://www.prestwich.ndirect.co.uk/fsrv/gearbox.htm The two output shaft bearing size is the same as the front engine's bearing, this time it's best to run ceramic with double rubber seals. They will puke out excess grease, don't worry about it. One last hint: So you can use more common "tractor" props, you can change the engine rotation by cutting a new drive slot in the rotor, same offset, but to the other side of the port, This is best done before the engine has ever been ran, to do otherwise will result in a looser fit, the piston's power stroke thrust is to the opposite side, hence has worn to fit.
Posted on: 8/8/2012 8:08 PM by Author "freakingfast" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11186382

RE: Tuned pipe for OS 55AX
[quote]ORIGINAL: markhamregular I am not a very handy type, so I will order the pre-tuned one for sure. They are quite long and I wonder how I will manage to screw my wing under in my Phoenix Tigershark. I was told I had to attach it to the fuse, but it will be longer and go over the place to install the wing. Thanks for your advice [/quote] Mac's does not offer a "pre-tuned system" See the note in the order box: "we suggest separate header #2590 & pipe #1250". The new improved for the OS55 Mac's 6720 muffler would perform between a stock muffler and the red Jett "tuned muffler" I don't recommend the blue Jett/Evolution for this engine. A properly tuned pipe will gain 300 to 700 rpm over a tuned muffler or perhaps same rpm but a bit more prop than a tuned muffler, depending on what you want. A Quiet Pipe(#1050) $109[X(] produces about the same peak hp as standard pipes but the transition is improved. Have a look at this old thread: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6357553
Posted on: 8/7/2012 9:56 PM by Author "freakingfast" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11185128

RE: Volt spy question
[quote]ORIGINAL: tomfiorentino As you probably know, when those batteries go they go; fast! [/quote] You can say that again, like off a cliff. Sick ones even faster. [quote]ORIGINAL: tomfiorentino You stop at solid red by the way? [/quote] I don't start a flight with solid yellow lit, thou if I see it in flight, I may continue, a few times post-flight I've seen solid red. Solid yellow is 6.2 volts and red is 5.9 (just before the cliff) this voltage is with an installed system at ready/rest. Most packs are 2/3A NiMh a few are AA NiMh.
Posted on: 8/7/2012 6:30 PM by Author "freakingfast" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11184914

RE: Volt spy question
John Telemetry is cool.[:D]
Posted on: 8/6/2012 9:07 PM by Author "freakingfast" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11183748

RE: Volt spy question
Status lights are different from maker to maker, some may be sensitive(like my MPI) some may have a buffer. You just have to find out what's normal for yours, barring any problems. Even basic digital servos draw a spike of current when they are suddenly changing direction at speed, add to that four or more servos............
Posted on: 8/6/2012 8:51 PM by Author "freakingfast" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11183726

RE: Volt spy question
[quote]ORIGINAL: tomfiorentino [quote]ORIGINAL: freakingfast {clip} Every status light type I've used blinks for the briefest of time the red light if I quickly circulate both sticks at the same time. {clip} [/quote] OK...and this means there is a problem. If it does this on a full charge, the battery is having trouble meeting the voltage demands of the servos. (ie. either binding
Posted on: 8/6/2012 7:48 PM by Author "freakingfast" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11183643

RE: please give me some information about this engines!!!!!!!!!!!
Don't run more than 10% nitro fuel or you may actually loose power and blow glow plugs. Very fine engines, hopefully in good shape.
Posted on: 8/6/2012 6:23 PM by Author "freakingfast" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11183496

RE: Help getting my OS 46ax up and running out of storage
You could still have some gunk stuck just ahead of the low speed needle, inside of the inlet. Another thing, put a fresh glow plug in it. Just because it glows or starts doesn't necessarily mean the plug is good. Ive seen people several times struggling with tuning an out of storage plane "it ran great the last time it flew". Funny thing about used glow plugs that were put away with the engine, often they seem to change with time.
Posted on: 8/5/2012 6:32 PM by Author "freakingfast" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11182257

RE: Volt spy question
[quote]ORIGINAL: CGRetired And, another good reason to check before the flying begins on a flying day to make sure that the battery is up where it belongs. Then, upon landing, since it is not practical to dismantle everything to check batteries, the voltwatch 2, for example, obviously there others, do just fine because they do check under the existing load. CGr. [/quote] Every plane I've ever built has a charge jack, no need to pull wings or pop the canopy to test battery condition. These are work great, http://www.troybuiltmodels.com/items/MPI5470.html It's a combo switch, charge jack, and battery status. Never had one fail and I've put many of them through heck. Hints: Since this is only a three light, don't start a flight with yellow solidly lit. If the plane is a high wing, if possible mount it under the wing, the yellow light will stand out on a fly-by in the shade of the wing, think about landing soon if you see it. Always mount the switch so that it is "power on" to the rear and "power off" towards the front. The wind or a brush with something wont turn it off and the switch will turn off on impact from inertia. (hopefully few of those). Never mount any switch down wind of the exhaust or fuel spray or leach points like the carb or cowl outlets. Don't over tighten the mounting screws and do use removable thread locker sparingly, (on the threads only!) thread locking fluids cause most plastics to crack in time.
Posted on: 8/5/2012 3:44 PM by Author "freakingfast" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11182016

RE: Volt spy question
[quote]ORIGINAL: CGRetired I would venture to say that there are no beginners out there that are using a true digital servo. [/quote] They are are standard now on most entry/basic radio systems. Where I've seen problems is when a beginner pieces a system together and sales person suggests servos that may be excessive to the needs, yet the battery is basic. Several times I've come across this and the plane's voltage was unsafe after only two flights. [quote]ORIGINAL: CGRetired The bottom line here is that the voltwatch, volt spy, whatever, is a good secondary device and many use them. I do, on everything I have, and rely on them to give me that quick look at battery condition. It saved my plane one time. [/quote] I agree 100%, but a voltage/load test meter should be the number one item in the flight box. So many planes I've saved, mostly not mine.
Posted on: 8/5/2012 9:14 AM by Author "freakingfast" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11181610

RE: Volt spy question
On board battery status lights are great, but I like to interpret just what the lights are really telling me. The first time I take a so equipped plane out, I also test the receiver pack periodically with a voltage/load test meter and take note as the light changes. http://www.horizonhobby.com/products/digital-variable-load-voltmeter-HAN171 Every status light type I've used blinks for the briefest of time the red light if I quickly circulate both sticks at the same time. Digital servos are getting more common and more powerful. These servos really draw current and if your plane is loaded with these, you may need to rethink your battery. I's always a good idea to load test through the switch a least once to see if there a lot of loss in the switch, I've found a few obvious bad ones. Besides chemistry type, there are three main things to know about your battery. Voltage, Capacity and discharge voltage @ load or what I like to call "current dump". For example: a NiMH AA battery typically has more capacity (more in the tank) than a NiMH 2/3 A, but the 2/3A battery has better dump (less voltage drop under the same load.)
Posted on: 8/4/2012 9:24 PM by Author "freakingfast" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11181263

RE: OS 1.20AX Unexplained Flameouts.......>>>
[quote]ORIGINAL: Taz_Hobbies Just not enough hours in the day to spend hunting down the issues. Easier to put the 1.10FZ on the Ult and put the bigger, heavier 1.20SF  on the Funtana that won't balance! [/quote] I'm just kidding ya! I'll never fault anyone for realizing life is too short for that aggravation. If it offends thee, pluck it out [;)]
Posted on: 8/3/2012 4:47 PM by Author "freakingfast" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11180101

RE: OS 1.20AX Unexplained Flameouts.......>>>
[quote]ORIGINAL: Taz_Hobbies The big OS is going bye bye. I am putting in a brand new YS 1.20SF (yes, an older style/version but brand new in the box) that is heavier on the Funtana. [/quote] YEAH! Take that, that'll learn ya! [:)]
Posted on: 8/1/2012 6:05 PM by Author "freakingfast" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11177793

RE: SAito 82 - Inverted - Rough Idle
Try a fresh glow plug first. On some inverted engines, you can lower the tank or raise the nitro content and tweak the needles to no end and still you end up with too fast an idle speed or a dead engine on approach. Don't fight a losing battle, get the on board glow.
Posted on: 7/31/2012 9:12 PM by Author "freakingfast" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11176754

RE: does such an animal exist?
[quote]ORIGINAL: SrTelemaster150 If you put a heavy radial up front, that short wing version would be HOT when landing, but the roll rate would be FAST as would the top speed. [/quote] . What I've learned from clipped wings, yes they are a bit faster, but you tend to scrub off what you gain in the turns at least in RC. AND they land HOT. Hot landing planes over the years have cost me: When it noses over at run off, landing gear blocks torn out, bent LG, broken props, scraped cowl. scraped valve covers broken firewall and broken tail section. Going a tad faster isn't worth it if cant fly or race again. And add insult to injury, don't planes get heavier after repairs?
Posted on: 7/31/2012 6:43 PM by Author "freakingfast" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11176584

RE: does such an animal exist?
[quote]ORIGINAL: SrTelemaster150 I set up my 1st trainer, a 96'' WS Sr Telemaster, W/a Saito FA150. I soloed it W/O crashing & didn't even have a compatable ''buddy box'' @ the club. I had the instuctor take it ''2 mistakes high'' & hand me the radio. [/quote] That's called doing it the hard way! If you had crashed first solo, do you wonder if you would be enjoying the sport today? About 8 years ago, I had a student "freeze up" with a death grip on the transmitter while the plane was in nose down death roll. I had to grab over his hands to force the sticks where I wanted them. I't's been "Buddy Box" ever since, no stress. No more, "Pass it to me", " No, I got it, I got it!,...... here, you take it!"
Posted on: 7/30/2012 8:23 PM by Author "freakingfast" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11175397

RE: does such an animal exist?
When I set up 40 size trainers, it's always an OS 55ax. It's not for the speed, it's nice to have the power to undo what the student just handed you. Then again, I do wait to the last moment to take it, I want the student to not give up and fight to the last. Students love it. Haven't lost a trainer[:)] The fuel usage is lower than any 40-60 engine I've ever come across, air time at training speeds is unreal.
Posted on: 7/30/2012 6:26 PM by Author "freakingfast" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11175240