RE: New 81" P-47 ARF coming from Hangar 9
looks GREAT! It's amazing how much better they look with a little time and effort. I would prefer to build but I don't have the time anymore to build. since moving down south from Michigan I work year round instead of seasonal so the arf's for me are the way to go. I wish more producers that are putting out the arf's would sell a plain version since a multitude of guys are tearing them apart any ways and putting their own touches on them. Anyway great job, it looks really good.
Posted on: 7/3/2008 4:20 PM by Author "fryfly" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7690669

RE: New 81" P-47 ARF coming from Hangar 9
here's a couple of pics of my finished bird. just under 21 lbs. glassed, 3W-28, 18x6 prop (for break in) and the included mechanical retracts. The arf kit is put together pretty good, congrats to Hangar 9 they did a good job with the kit even though it's not scale it's close and still looks good
Posted on: 6/29/2008 4:38 PM by Author "fryfly" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7674903

RE: New 81" P-47 ARF coming from Hangar 9
it's fine to use the one that comes with the kit as it was intended to handle the evolution engine. If you want to change it that's fine but it is plenty sturdy enough for the airframe.
Posted on: 6/26/2008 3:55 PM by Author "fryfly" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7664434

RE: Russian Yak-3
another good site to go to is the following, not sure if anyone has mentioned it yet but just a ton of stuff including books and models. http://www.squadron.com/
Posted on: 1/22/2008 8:27 AM by Author "fryfly" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6949203

RE: New 81" P-47 ARF coming from Hangar 9
nice job, that engine turned out pretty good. I believe the top flite is a little more detailed but with a little work you have proved that the stock ones will work out just fine. What did you use to back the dummy radial with? Also did you glass it in, how did you attach it?
Posted on: 1/7/2008 2:39 PM by Author "fryfly" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6869102

RE: New 81" P-47 ARF coming from Hangar 9
Your correct the FTE radials are a little heavy,you also have to beef them up with lite ply on the back or they will tend to crack between cylinders which adds even more weight, but if you paint them the way that Frank explains to with the spray paint they are beautiful and are hard to beat for looks. I'm am also using a TF dummy that I had laying around for years versus the one that came with the plane, which is really kind of lame. The FTE radial is better used on a 30 lb plane where your going more scale and have the engine to push the extra weight. I had one in my Ziroli 92" p-47 but it weighed in at 35 lbs. and had a 75cc motor pushing it It's a great looking dummy but on second thought it is too heavy for this particular frame unless you really need the extra nose weight.
Posted on: 1/1/2008 5:09 PM by Author "fryfly" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6837708

RE: New 81" P-47 ARF coming from Hangar 9
Frank Tiano Enterprises has good scale dummy engines.
Posted on: 12/31/2007 11:28 PM by Author "fryfly" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6834612

RE: Russian Yak-3
If anyone is interested look in my gallery I have a few pics in there of the Jerry Bates Yak 3 that I scratch built. You have to use alot of your imagination with this one when it comes to building some of the coolers and smaller parts on the plane, as they are nowhere in the instructions or on the plans which are the instructions.
Posted on: 12/29/2007 7:35 PM by Author "fryfly" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6823104

RE: New 81" P-47 ARF coming from Hangar 9
san26141 not much you can do about beefing up the airframe without disassembling the whole thing. You just have to be careful with the power that your going to put in it. Here's a few things that I have done to this same airframe and am in the middle of doing myself. You can apply a little extra thin CA on as much of the inside as possible, and with the motor your going to use beef up the formers and stringers where they meet with the sheating with a little epoxy. The extra weight you will be adding with the epxy won't hurt anything with the 50 cc in fact it might help a little. Throw away all of the hardware that comes with the plane especially the hinges and opt for pinned hinges from either Robart or Du-Bro. Get rid of the control horns and opt for the giant scale from Du-Bro or go with the threaded ones, either work excellent for larger planes. Remember with the extra power you will be adding to the front of this big boy undoubtedly you will get a little more flutter on your control surfaces so seal them up from the top and this will help considerably, it will also require less throw in your elevator and ailerons. Go to all ball links and get rid of the cheap servo arms that come with the servos and it's a wise choice to go with giant scale servos on the throttle and elevator. If you want to do a little mod on the elevators link them together with a"U" style wire from elevator to elevator that way you only have to use one giant servo which cuts out one more weak link. There is alot you can do to beef it up, just try to do away with as many as the weak points as possible. I have built flown and sold many giant scale planes and there are alot of ways not only to cut weight but strengthen an airframe but really tooooooooooo many to name at once. If you have any more questions feel free to ask. I'll give you my 2 cents if it will help.
Posted on: 12/28/2007 10:36 PM by Author "fryfly" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6819008

RE: New 81" P-47 ARF coming from Hangar 9
some of you guys are putting an awful lot of motor in some of these planes but to each his own, more power not necessarily a bad thing at all. EVO gt 35 turns a 19x8 at approx 8200 according to their website. I'm sure it will do all of that. A 3W 28 stock will turn a 18x8 at 8300 (fact). If you can get an engine I don't care what it is as long as it will turn an 18 to 20 inch prop at a good 8000 rpm's than you have a winner. you need atleast an 18 inch prop to clear this cowl and keep this plane flying. A GT 26, 3w 28, or a EVOGT 35 are all pretty close in numbers as far as flying this model in a scale manner. If you want to fly this puppy at 130 mph's than put in a 40 of 50 cc engine and the plane will probably last about 2 or three seasons, after that you might as well totally pull it apart strip and reglue everything, rehinge all control surfaces and literally start from where you where to begin with. Yes you can strengthen this particular frame to run the oversize engines on them, glue em up real good add a little fiberglass here and there and poof your ready to fly, but in the long run the unforseen vibration that the larger engine puts out and the extra wind sheer from miles per hour that your putting it through will ultimately be the down fall of this LIGHT WEIGHT DESIGNED aircraft. In my opinion and my opinion only (which doesn't count for much) you are better off putting in and engine that will fly this particular WEIGHT airframe -- versus putting in the largest engine that will fit this LIGHT WEIGHT airframe.
Posted on: 12/27/2007 9:29 PM by Author "fryfly" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6813619

RE: Russian Yak-3
The Bates plans are good plans, Cornell Michaels out of Michigan cuts this basic kit. He cuts only formers and a few other parts but gives you all necessary wood plus extra left over. You will basically build 90% of the plane scratch though. Mine flew great with a 3W 70 it was a bit overpowered though would fly great with a 3W 50 as long as you keep it around 26 to 27 lbs which I think is quite possible depending on the features you put in. Engine Compartment is also a litte small for the proper fit of anything over 50cc's. Mine came in just under 30 lbs and was pretty quick but I honestly needed a 50cc instead of the 70 as not to chop up the bottom and insides of the cowl which is also built up then cut out.
Posted on: 12/27/2007 8:34 PM by Author "fryfly" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6813334

RE: JB plans Yak-3 Not so boring Warbird !
the plane is scratch built, The plans are only for the scratch builder, as there is probably less than a couple of words or sentences on all the sheets for directions. No fiberglass fuse, or cowl atleast at the time that I built mine. Write Jerry Bates an email ( email on his site ) he will give you all the latest information, and he will answer you back. Mine came in just under 30 1/2 pounds. even with the under belly coolers and the air scoops in the wings. I guarantee anyone who builds this plane will be doing alot of fabricating and sanding but the end results will be well worth it. Good Luck.
Posted on: 3/30/2005 6:22 PM by Author "fryfly" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2824552

RE: JB plans Yak-3 Not so boring Warbird !
the plane flew like an arrow and very fast wold build another only larger if I had the time. I sold this one a couple of months back because I only had time to fly twice this last year, no sense in letting it rot away so I parted with it. As far as the coloring goes for those who are curious I don't know the story behind the aircraft but they are exact colors of a plane that actually seen combat.
Posted on: 3/23/2005 7:18 PM by Author "fryfly" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2798199

RE: Fuel leaking from where the case joins togeather in the rear of engine
I agree with KLOTZ, recheck all your bolts just don't torque down the intake/carb bolts too much but make sure they are snug. Your bound to get a little fuel overspray coming from the carb itself but that's mostly from the wind going over the carb and creating a little bit of a siphoning effect.[:D]
Posted on: 3/13/2004 8:00 PM by Author "fryfly" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1621607

RE: A baby ME-109 is born
I too have seen this aircraft fly and it flies as if it's on rails, and lands just as easy.great job building too. Terry F
Posted on: 10/20/2003 12:00 AM by Author "fryfly" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1214003

RE: help with 3 bladed prop & 3W 70
I ran a 3 blade 22x10 mejzlik prop on my bates yak-3 (3W 70i )and the prop was a perfect fit for this engine, I got it from Desert Aircraft for around 90 bucks shipped.
Posted on: 10/19/2003 9:48 PM by Author "fryfly" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1213675

RE: lets see what your p-47s look like
[:D] I found the diagram and rescanned it to a jpg so here is the way that I did the exhaust, I hope this helps clear up any questions. Terry
Posted on: 10/19/2003 9:37 PM by Author "fryfly" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1213642

RE: lets see what your p-47s look like
if your using Johnson cans than the exhaust outlets/if your using a 4.2 size or larger engine, out side diameter is almost a perfect fit for a female 1/2 copper water fitting.I cut down the exhaust tubes to around 3/4 of an inch and used JB weld for holding differen't pieces together in order to route the exhaust down and back to the proper exit. I use the red NOT BLUE !! silicone that you buy at the Toledo rc expo. Sorry but I can't remember who sold the stuff,maybe someone can help me there with that one. Anyway the red is rated at almost 600 degrees where the blue is only rated around 450 degrees.I have been using this same exhaust for 3 seasons now and it hasn't hardened,gotten stiff,come off or leaked in any way shape or form yet to be seen. I also use header gasket material from any speed shop and epoxy it to the inside of my cowling.I make the exit hole in the fiberglass cowl larger than the hole in the gasket material. Make the hole in the gasket material the same size if not slightly smaller than the outside diameter of the copper elbow.the gasket material being a softer material lets you force the copper elbow through without any problems thus creating a very tight/holding fit around the copper. The gasket material is perfect for the heat generated from your exhaust and does not in any way effect the epoxy that is holding it to the inside of the cowling and does not transfer any of the heat to the fiberglass cowling itself.
Posted on: 10/19/2003 1:50 PM by Author "fryfly" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1212771

RE: Luftwaffe Display Thread
Nice FW Jetster but you better watch your 6 cause that yak is close on your tail
Posted on: 10/19/2003 11:17 AM by Author "fryfly" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1212531

RE: lets see what your p-47s look like
Ziroli 92", 35 pounds , has retracts and flaps 3w 75 twin spark with scale exhaust. flies like a trainer and lands perfectly. Great flying bird
Posted on: 10/19/2003 11:12 AM by Author "fryfly" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1212519

RE: Need Fedback on Nose Art.
Nose art should never be compromised at any time or place.As far as women and children are concerned We do NOT go to the public with our stuff, NEVER !!!!!!! even in situations where we display in public, these events are published and or advertised to the public. The public COMES TO US !!! (Always have and Always will ) If you think it's is shameful or lewd YOU need to stay home and think about the real problems in the world and our society today and try to fix/complain about those things instead. National Geographic has more nudity in it than any flying event ever has, and national tv has more swearing than any spectator will ever hear outloud at any fly-in. Wheeeeeeeewwwww !!! after that I think my next project will have some nose art that will capture not only the eyes of the spectators, buy the eyes of my fellow flyers who help keep alive apart of OUR history that has helped secure my freedom and opportunity to participate in the hobby I love. Without our past in this country and the tools that helped secure it ,this site and hobby we ALL enjoy most likely would not exist just as it does not exist in MANY other parts of the world today.
Posted on: 10/19/2003 10:48 AM by Author "fryfly" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1212478

RE: um, did I screw up here?
It is necessary to cut the bottom of the firewall usually unless you build the box yourself,but in your case it will work just fine. I too have done this exact procedure many times with great success,just reinforce the inside of the motor box with triangle stock,and cut in vent holes in the sides of your box for adequate air flow to the carb. Good job for your first time. Have fun.
Posted on: 10/13/2003 6:37 AM by Author "fryfly" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1198185

RE: BME Propellers
Hey Kris 2 questions 1= have you flown any of the props yet? 2= how are these new props comparing performance wise to the menz or 3W props?
Posted on: 10/5/2003 7:50 PM by Author "fryfly" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1182463

RE: How do you tune a 3W-100
sounds like you need to lean out the top end instead of the bottom end. Once you get a good transition on the ground you shouldn't have to touch the bottom end at all especially on a rear induction engine. If your getting good transition I would lean out the top end with a tach then back off about 200 to 300 rpm's. After leaning out the bottom end 6 times in a row without any results, it's sounds as if the top end is the real culpret.
Posted on: 10/5/2003 10:16 AM by Author "fryfly" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1181638

RE: How do you tune a 3W-100
I don't think it is so much with the carbs as it is with setups,on setups that need no extra large cut outs in the cowling there seems to be no issues persay, but with the larger twins that have the carbs on the lower side fully exposed to prop wash and turbulance the airflow is effected tremendously. It has nothing to do with manufacturing or engine brand, it all has to do with setup and airflow.
Posted on: 10/5/2003 9:22 AM by Author "fryfly" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1181543

RE: Spider Wire?
I have use the spider wire too but only on applications where it is internal,and your using it on aircraft 60 size or smaller. I now am using planer board line for the pull pull on my 1/3 scale sukhoi. Rated at 135 lb test you will NEVER stretch this stuff for what we are doing! It's alot cheaper than Kevlar and easier to find depending where your at.
Posted on: 10/5/2003 6:40 AM by Author "fryfly" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1181456

RE: How do you tune a 3W-100
Bob_nj has the correct cure for the carb fix!!! Both my twins ran the exact same way ( 3W ) and you could tweak the needles till the cows came home and it didn't make a difference any which way you turned them. I also tried venting them to the fuse but actuall had one stall and quit on landing one day so I didn't like that fix either. Since I have vented the diaphram directly over the carb with a slight taper at the end of the tube I haven't even touched the needles since the beginning of the year. The motor doesn't spit or burble in inverted flight or any other attitude for that matter, the motor runs like wild fire now,and I am completely satisfied,it was well worth the time and few penny's I spent versus the frustration and needle tweaking you can go through.
Posted on: 10/5/2003 6:10 AM by Author "fryfly" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1181442

RE: H-9 1/3 Sukoi Exhaust Options?
I agree with flyfalcons, it's not so much the engine you hear but the prop noise. I have the sukhoi with a 106 on it flying a 27x10 NX prop and it is extremely loud with that prop, if I go with the larger 28x10 prop the larger prop pulls toooo much air and the plane doesn't like to land as easy,you almost have to get it to stall speeds in order to bring it down or force it down which is always a little tricky. Even if your running stock cans the best fix for the noise problem is going to a 3 blade prop,the 3 blade being smaller will still allow the engine to unload but quiet down the tips considerably more than the 2 blade. I also have to go to this setup for next year,the larger 2 blade at this point is simply not an option,with the air foil and larger engines that we are using on these sukhoi's they simply float when coming in ,especially since we have orerpowered them with larger engines and LARGER props. These airframes were designed to fly with 80cc motors which fly on 24 and 26 inch props,you wouldn't think it would make a difference but an extra 2 to 4 inches of prop for the larger motors makes a big difference when landing.
Posted on: 10/5/2003 5:53 AM by Author "fryfly" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1181436

RE: Russian Warbirds
hey pickupsticks your gonna love the Yates Yak-3, It has very little information on the building but goes together well if you follow the plans. I put a 3W 70 in mine but had to modify the whole front end to get it to fit right ,mine weighs out at 30 pounds but could be built under that if not glassing or using a smaller engine. the plane doesn't need flaps as the flat bottom wing just doesn't want to come down with flaps on. If you decide to use flaps be prepared to force it down with a little hotter than desired speeds, the flat bottom wing really makes a difference even with a 30 pound bird. You'll like the way it tracks and it is a very quick bird to say the least. Good Luck
Posted on: 9/27/2003 11:34 PM by Author "fryfly" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1166374

RE: TF 1/7 P-47 Kit or Hanger 9 60 size P-51 ARF -Which is easier to fly?
everything aside p-47 flies easier, PERIOD! very stable flying and landing.
Posted on: 9/25/2003 11:08 PM by Author "fryfly" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1162326