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RE: Stepping into nitro helis (Shuttle)
26,000 hits and climbing. I'm not sure if Shannon is even in the hobby anymore. Last I heard he'd moved on to other things. Very popular thread it seems.
Posted on: 5/15/2013 1:37 AM by Author "glydrjocky"
in the forum "Hirobo Support Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11511990
RE: Help with Shuttle ZX-A (Arf?) rotor head setup.
Wow, I hope you figured this out as this is an old post. The vertical guide pin is supposed to line up with the vertical slot in the aluminum hub that is 90 degrees to the jesus bolt. I hope you didn't try to fly it like that.
Posted on: 5/15/2013 1:32 AM by Author "glydrjocky"
in the forum "Hirobo Support Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11511987
RE: Hirobo Shuttle Flybarless Conversion
Great post Zorah! I was on here a lot about 6 years ago flying my ZX and Shuttle plus. I have been interested in CCPM and flybarless for my Plus as well. Presently I'm running all Quick Uk rotor head parts. What kind of pitch are you getting with your setup? I have run 11 +/- with mine which allows awesome climb and inverted but I have to limit my cyclic travel to avoid binding. Sounds like the rudder servo mount part number is the same one used on the Sceadu judging my the SD letters in the description. That would make sense as the tail housing is similar to the Sceadu as well. Thanks again for the great info. T
Posted on: 5/15/2013 1:18 AM by Author "glydrjocky"
in the forum "Hirobo Support Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11511985
RE: Balsa USA moonraker
This dude posted an awesome re-maiden of his dads Moonraker. I give the guy props for posting an awesome vintage bird! http://youtu.be/CgAInu1HvoQ
Posted on: 7/2/2012 6:14 PM by Author "glydrjocky"
in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11140583
RE: Re-kitting an ARF?
Wow, now THAT was an awesome answer [:D]
Posted on: 6/17/2012 10:26 PM by Author "glydrjocky"
in the forum "Crash & Rebuild"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11121985
Re-kitting an ARF?
Back in the day some 25+ years ago when we crashed, it was know as "Re-kitting". In the spirit of the ARF's of today when we crash an ARF have we in essence "Re-ARF'd" it?????
Posted on: 6/17/2012 2:18 PM by Author "glydrjocky"
in the forum "Crash & Rebuild"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11121484
RE: Want to upgrade Z starter
I'd say no to the brass rod, it won't be up to the task. I bent my push rod in a crash and replaced it with a steel rod available at many hobby stores. Not sure if they call it piano wire but it comes in 36 inch sections and I had a piece about .040 diameter. Just put a Z bent on the servo end and the tail bell crank locked down with a set screw like an EZ connector. That set up lasted forever and gave precise tail control. Not very up to speed on electrics, just an old school nitro flyer here. Trying to learn though. Tony
Posted on: 6/12/2012 8:12 AM by Author "glydrjocky"
in the forum "Hirobo Support Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11115532
RE: Want to upgrade Z starter
I just realized that you most likely have the Z style head with the flybar on top of the main rotor. The ZX had the flybar below the main rotor and this may have raised the height of the blades to help prevent boom strikes. The new blade grips with the thrust bearing are only going to work with the newer style ZX/ZXX head assembly. Do you have the enclosed tail rotor case with the blades on the left side or do you have the newer open tail with the pulley visible and the blades on the right? The old Z tail had a wire traveling through the center of the drive shaft and was actuated by a bell crank from the opposite side. I personally like the open ZX style tail. There was no through wire just an external bell crank that moved the pitch slider bearing. Far superior system in my opinion. I had very good actuation on mine, but it does take patience. Its best to disconnect the individual components and feel for any binding in the system before connecting the whole thing. Take the blade grips apart and lube the bearings. Turn the thrust bearings between your fingers and feel for notches or roughness. The tail rotor main shaft bearings can wear quickly. Be sure they are smooth and free from play as well. I remember spending alot of time replacing tail rotor shafts and bearings. The tail shaft if relatively soft and bends like butta in a crash. The slightest bend in the shaft will set up a high freq vibration that just plays havoc with the boom and tail assembly. I dont think the Z originaly came with tail boom supports from the frame to the horizontal fin but they are well worth it. The Z tail boom may also be shorter which in turn requires a shorter belt than the ZX. You have to be careful that you are getting the right parts because the improvement progression was constant through the life of the Shuttle.
Posted on: 5/27/2012 5:55 AM by Author "glydrjocky"
in the forum "Hirobo Support Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11096028
RE: Snapped the CAP in Coffin Corner
[:D] Got married and had a beautiful baby girl along the way so the CAP was on the back burner for awhile. Never lost sight of the goal to finish it. Just took a detour along the way. Not sure I'll ever undertake such a task in the future. Next time I'll just build a new one. Here she is with Daddy and his 30 year old Bridi Trainer 40. Never thought when I built it in highschool that someday my daughter and I would be photographed with it. Surprised it survived my flight training intact. No simulators in those days. Just buddy boxes and awesome instruction. I love this hobby, always have, always will........ T
Posted on: 5/27/2012 5:16 AM by Author "glydrjocky"
in the forum "Crash & Rebuild"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11095763
RE: Want to upgrade Z starter
Sounds like a great plan for the shuttle. Not sure about the weight but they are made of "space age" strong plastics which seem pretty light. The shuttle does make a great trainer but you want to be sure that ALL of your linkages and bearings are smooth and notch free. I upgraded to the Shuttle plus blade grips that have a thrust bearing in the blade grip. This smoothed the collective and cyclic response night and day over the stock two bearing grips. My shuttle originally had bushing servos and I upgraded to ball bearing servos. I just kept working at it and what I ended up with was a very precise flying machine that was responsive and fun to fly. Helicopters are all about attention to detail. I think the older Z shuttles had alot of bushings in the rotor system. The ZX replaced alot of the bushings with bearings so its a good upgrade to start with. I used both Hirobo and Boca bearings for my shuttles. Boca being the less expensive of the two. Sounds like you have a good gyro and tail servo which is very important. I bought my ZX with an old mechanical gyro and replaced it with a JR410 shortly thereafter. The servo was an old JR 501 but I replaced that with an 810G sport tail servo and the difference was again night and day. Hope you have good luck getting your Shuttle airborne. Looking forward to seeing some pictures or video. Take care, T-bone
Posted on: 5/26/2012 10:32 AM by Author "glydrjocky"
in the forum "Hirobo Support Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11095398
RE: Why the near obsession with over powering airplanes?
An old crusty[>:] crop duster pilot once passed on to me the secrets of his long lived aviation career. He took me under his wing and said "Tony, there are three things in aviation that will do you absolutely NO good." 1. The runway behind you. 2. The altitude above you. 3. and the fuel you left back at the pump. Perhaps that's as good a reason as any to over power an airplane, you can always throttle back but bending the firewall once the throttle hits the stop isnt gonna get you any more power! You haven't lived until you've gotten caught in a down draft with a 65 horse Air Knocker Champ at full throttle and had the terrain get closer than you'd like. Thanks again Reese for those words of advice, I'll never forget them!
Posted on: 5/26/2012 9:24 AM by Author "glydrjocky"
in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11095337
RE: Snapped the CAP in Coffin Corner
Well Hells Bells! The Cap 232 has flown again! Couldnt wait to patch up the cowling so I flew it without but none the less.............SHE FLIES!!!!!!!!!!! and quite well I might add. I dont even want to look at the date that I first posted this thread, its been too long but I kept my promise to rebuild her! I'll get it cowled up and try to get some airborne pics or video. Thanks for all the inspiration I received along the way. Life is all about the journey not the final destination. Stay thirsty my friends! Tony http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GND10sWq0n0
Posted on: 5/25/2012 11:21 PM by Author "glydrjocky"
in the forum "Crash & Rebuild"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11095023
RE: Stepping into nitro helis (Shuttle)
Hey Shannon, Hard to believe it was almost 2 years ago since the last posts on this thread. Hirobo flying was a blast! Havent had much time to mess with Heli's lately. Seems that during this time away the stork left a little bundle of joy on our door step. Little Alexis is almost a year old and enjoys hanging with daddy at the flying field. [:D] Hope all is well in Hirobo land everyone. T
Posted on: 5/25/2012 10:26 PM by Author "glydrjocky"
in the forum "Hirobo Support Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11095012
RE: Want to upgrade Z starter
Tman, I've been out of the loop with the Shuttles the last few years. I was flying an old ZX from 2007 till 2009 or so. My ZX came with an OS .32 with the rope starter on it. That was actually the best set up for me as a beginner. I later purchased a Shuttle Plus with top start and compared the differences. I believe the clutch support bearing in the ZX/ZXX has a smaller outside diameter where it sits in the frame and also the inside clutch spindle is a smaller diameter. The bearing that supports the top start clutch assembly in the Plus is the same as the bearings that support the main shaft. Not sure if you would need to up grade to the newer style frames that accept the bigger clutch bearing or if you could just get a bearing with a larger inside diameter for your old zxx frame bearing size. There were alot of progressive improvements to the shuttle line, some compatible with the older shuttles and some not. I had a great time learning and upgrading as I went. Sadly it seems that parts are getting harder to come by and I have not seen the Shuttle offered for sale as a whole kit on MRC for some time. I loved the Shuttle line and what it taught me will stick with me for life. I met some of the greatest people fixing up that old ZX and they have been awesome friends ever since. Hope you can get your shuttle up and running. Drop me a line if I can answer and questions. Tbone
Posted on: 5/25/2012 9:38 PM by Author "glydrjocky"
in the forum "Hirobo Support Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11094987
RE: Evo setup
I found that removing weight from the stock flybar paddles increased cyclic response quite nicely. The Sceadu evo flys like its on rails with the stock weights installed. I cant remember if I pulled the brass and left the lead or the other way around but I've heard that it will get too pitchy at speed with both weights removed from the paddles. You want to be carefull when maximizing throw that you dont get into a situation where the linkages bind on the swash plate. I recall backing off my % throws ever so slightly to avoid binding with the Evo SWM setup. Tony
Posted on: 7/4/2011 9:01 AM by Author "glydrjocky"
in the forum "Hirobo Support Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10605393
RE: ARF's are Kits?
I allowed my emotions to run amok [:@]
Posted on: 5/23/2011 9:22 AM by Author "glydrjocky"
in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10534005
RE: Snapped the CAP in Coffin Corner
Recovering the Ole CAP 232 One year after my last post I have finally got around to covering the CAP and made quite a bit of progress the last week or so. Started dabbling in the Windex method of trim application and am quite pleased with the overall outcome. I reapplied some of the lettering using the Windex, glassplate and "Press n Seal" to apply the final design. So wish I had known about this method years ago. I was looking for something to put at the lower wing center section that would be fitting to my rebuild project. In keeping with the rising from the ashes theme I chose the rising Phoenix and cut it from black Monokote. I'm thrilled with how it came out! Hoping to be up to flying status very very soon. Just need to connect the aileron servos, repaint the cowling and attach the canopy. I also built a home made fiberglass helmet as the new pilot of this CAP. The helmet was shaped from Styrofoam and then fiberglassed. The foam was then hollowed out leaving only the fiberglass shell. Relatively light weight I'm hoping it does the job. I'll post a few photos on this post shortly. Praying for the time to get a test flight in soon. Tony
Posted on: 5/22/2011 10:20 AM by Author "glydrjocky"
in the forum "Crash & Rebuild"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10532496
RE: Snapped the CAP in Coffin Corner
[:D] Yup, I'm bound and determined to keep this thread alive till I get the flipp'n thing in the air again. I guess the thing that really got my blood boiling to rebuild it was the ARF pilot who asked me if I wanted to "throw it in the trash" as I carried it back to the bench after the crash..........".HUH?!?!?!?!??" thought I..........feeling as though the gauntlet had been thrown! THEMS FIGHT'N WORDS SON!!!!! [>:] Just rebuilt the OS FS-48 in my Four Star Fourty which was amazingly successful so thats kinda spurred me to get this CAP finished. I am also happy with how the helmet came out, it was very easy to free hand it out of a piece of Styrofoam and glass like a surfboard. Not sure how well it will hold up but its worth a try. I find that I'm always more proud of what I build than what I buy already finished. Something my old man instilled in me long long ago. I'll try my best to keep this momentum up till the very end. As always, thanks for the undying support! Tony PS. Connected the ailerons this morning so she's one step closer to flight ready...........and the controls are going the correct direction, another plus!
Posted on: 5/21/2011 4:25 PM by Author "glydrjocky"
in the forum "Crash & Rebuild"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10533156
RE: cleaning and rebuilding a OS 4-cycle...
http://tech.flygsw.org/surpass52fs.htm This is a great reference page for disassemble and overhaul! Tony
Posted on: 5/4/2011 1:11 PM by Author "glydrjocky"
in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10501425
RE: cleaning and rebuilding a OS 4-cycle...
Just pulled down and rebuilt my OS FS-48. It's running smooth on a fresh set of Boca bearings and a Frank Bowman piston ring. Total cost for these parts was around $55 I have about five rich flights on the motor and love the low idle, smooth sound and epic fuel economy that's been returned to me for a few nights at the work bench. Tony
Posted on: 5/4/2011 11:42 AM by Author "glydrjocky"
in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10501271
RE: os FS-48 first four stroker tear down
[quote]ORIGINAL: glydrjocky Got up Saturday morning and ran another full tank through the engine very rich. Satisfied with the performance I mounted the ole .48 back in my kit bashed Sig fourstar and headed for the field. Once there she started with a single flip of the prop, I ran it up to full throttle but kept the mixture purposely rich. It was taching just under 9000 rpm with a master
Posted on: 4/24/2011 11:40 PM by Author "glydrjocky"
in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10483291
RE: os FS-48 first four stroker tear down
Got up Saturday morning and ran another full tank through the engine very rich. Satisfied with the performance I mounted the ole .48 back in my kit bashed Sig fourstar and headed for the field. Once there she started with a single flip of the prop, I ran it up to full throttle but kept the mixture purposely rich. It was taching just under 9000 rpm with a master airscrew 11-7 prop. Took off leaving a nice smoke trail in the sky, the engine ticking away like a fine swiss watch. The power was smooth but subdued due to the overrich setting. Did two full flights in this manner. On landing I was amazed at how much slower the idle was compared to what I was able to achieve before. It settled down to a nice 2800rpm tick, the landings were much smoother with far less float and a more controllable taxi speed than I ever had before. I'm stoked!!!!! Very happy with my first 4 stroke rebuild! Thanks again for the help you all have given me on this little project, wishing I had done this a few years ago when I originally built this bird. Had no idea the bearings were so bad. The dog has indeed learned a new trick [:D]
Posted on: 4/24/2011 5:02 AM by Author "glydrjocky"
in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10481619
RE: os FS-48 first four stroker tear down
Strapped her into the test stand and fired up the beast! Ran a full tank through it rich and it seemed to run strong. initial impression is its far tighter than it was and the bearings are sooooooooo much smoother. Had no idea it would run this quiet. igniter and power panel died before I could press on further. We'll see how things go. I put in a fresh F plug this morning as I was using a miricle plug for initial start up. Wanted to make sure it was running well before commiting to a expensive plug. Gonna see how it runs this morning then mount it in the airplane if all goes well. Thanks again, Tony
Posted on: 4/23/2011 8:05 AM by Author "glydrjocky"
in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10480011
RE: os FS-48 first four stroker tear down
Okay! Fresh Boca bearings installed for cam and mains!! Fresh Frank Bowman ring installed using Franks methods outlined in the paperwork he sends with the ring. Lapped valves gently with toothpaste then installed the springs. (Minty fresh exhaust gases)[:D] The valve lash is .003 exhaust and .004 intake the way it sits, my copy of the manual states that it should be .0015-.004 thou. Where should the idle bleed screw be set? I put the tip of the screw halfway over the port to start but the manual I have doesnt give a starting point. Gonna try to fire it up on the bench this evening and hope to fly it if all goes as planed this weekend.
Posted on: 4/22/2011 9:07 AM by Author "glydrjocky"
in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10478372
RE: os FS-48 first four stroker tear down
New cam and main bearings on the way, including a fresh ring from Frank Bowman! Can't wait to start reassembly next week. Any advice on ccrosshatching the bore for a good ring break-in? The sleeve seems a bit too smooth to seat the ring. Tony
Posted on: 4/16/2011 4:31 PM by Author "glydrjocky"
in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10466757
os fs-48 Surpass my first 4 stroker tear down
I have been running a used FS-48 in my 4 Star Fourty for quite some time. It flew fantastic on an 11-7 prop, F plug and either Omega or Cool power 15%. Recently I was beginning to have issues with it running consistantly and the compression seemed to be low, a new plug or fresh fuel has fixed the issues in the past but she finally said I'm done. I pressure checked my fuel tank, always run a fuel filter and didnt find anything out of the ordinary on tearing down the carb and manifold. Decided to pull the engine down and see what was going on inside. Here is a list of a few things of interest. 1. The cylinder looks smooth but no real noticable cross hatching. The piston has some varnish overall but no scoring. The piston ring gap measured out at .014 which seemed a bit excessive to me. 2. The exhaust valve has some carbon buildup and a few black marks on the valve seat which made me wonder if the valve is seating as it should. I had checked the valve lash some time ago and I was able to detect some lash in each rocker before I tore the engine down so I'm guessing that wasnt the problem 3. The valve tappets (lifters) were gummy and required a bit of up and down manipulation with some marvel mystery oil to get them up high enough to remove the camshaft. 4. The camshaft looked fine but the inner bearing is very rough when the cam is inserted and turned. The outer bearing feels like new. 5. Both main bearings were rusted and rough so they will be replaced as will the cam bearings. I guess my main question is, should I just replace the ring to freshen up the bore or will I need to replace the piston, ring and sleeve to get back to the fine running engine I miss so much? Can I freshen up the valve seats with some fine lapping compound and call it good? I've done this work on auto and full size aircraft engines but the miniature size seems somehow intimidating to me. Any thoughts would be of great help, Tony
Posted on: 4/12/2011 5:19 AM by Author "glydrjocky"
in the forum "O.S. Engines Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10454481
RE: os FS-48 first four stroker tear down
Silly question, but there was no gasket between the head and the intake manifold, should there be one? The carb O-ring is intact, present and accounted for. I guess I've seen stranger things but with no parts break down in front of me I can't be sure. The motor was used and someone removed the choke assembly long ago. Hmmmmm.
Posted on: 4/11/2011 2:44 PM by Author "glydrjocky"
in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10456768
RE: os FS-48 first four stroker tear down
Got the cam bearing out!!!!! I was trying to think of a wax substitute and found some Mortite weather strip putty! It worked perfectly. I took a #8 drill bit, chucked in a drill press backwards and polished the shank to a 5mm fit. Balled up the Mortite, tapped it in place and the bearing magically moved out of the bore. I love physics!!!!! You guys ROCK!! I'll keep you posted on the progress. Gonna order parts next. Tony
Posted on: 4/11/2011 9:14 AM by Author "glydrjocky"
in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10456112
RE: os FS-48 first four stroker tear down
Thank you so much for the feed back guys. I was just out in the garage cleaning up some of the parts, soaking the valves in marvel mysetery oil really loosened up the carbon deposts but I will have to try the dawn product mentioned. Campgems, I just tried to remove the cam bearing before I read this post. Tried the old heat method then tapped the case against a wood block. It didnt so much as budge. I'll try your method for sure. I was thinking of filling the area under the bearing with water and freezing it but not sure if that would work. Where does one get the red sprue wax you mentioned? I agree that .014 seems excessive but I believe that motorboy is right about the 4 stroke needing some extra gap for blowby lubrication. I'd like to see no more than .010 or so. Thinking of purchasing a ring from Frank the Ringmaster as I have heard good things about his aftermarket rings. I have also heard that the ring for the OS .52 might work as the .48 ring seems to no longer be available. Any thoughts on the ring situation? I'd love to get this motor running right again. Love the sound, the torque and the fuel economy that it has given me.
Posted on: 4/10/2011 8:45 PM by Author "glydrjocky"
in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10455372
os FS-48 first four stroker tear down
I have been running a used FS-48 in my 4 Star Fourty for quite some time. It flew fantastic on an 11-7 prop, F plug and either Omega or Cool power 15%. Recently I was beginning to have issues with it running inconsistantly and the compression seemed to be low, a new plug or fresh fuel has fixed the issues in the past but she finally said I'm done. I pressure checked my fuel tank, always run a fuel filter and didnt find anything out of the ordinary on tearing down the carb and manifold. Decided to pull the engine down and see what was going on inside. Here is a list of a few things of interest. 1. The cylinder looks smooth but no real noticable cross hatching. The piston has some varnish overall but no scoring. The piston ring gap measured out at .014 which seemed a bit excessive to me. 2. The exhaust valve has some carbon buildup and a few black marks on the valve seat which made me wonder if the valve is seating as it should. I had checked the valve lash some time ago and I was able to detect some lash in each rocker before I tore the engine down so I'm guessing that wasnt the problem 3. The valve tappets (lifters) were gummy and required a bit of up and down manipulation with some marvel mystery oil to get them up high enough to remove the camshaft. 4. The camshaft looked fine but the inner bearing is very rough when the cam is inserted and turned. The outer bearing feels like new. 5. Both main bearings were rusted and rough so they will be replaced as will the cam bearings. I guess my main question is, should I just replace the ring to freshen up the bore or will I need to replace the piston, ring and sleeve to get back to the fine running engine I miss so much? Can I freshen up the valve seats with some fine lapping compound and call it good? I've done this work on auto and full size aircraft engines but the miniature size seems somehow intimidating to me. Any thoughts would be of great help, Tony
Posted on: 4/10/2011 2:44 PM by Author "glydrjocky"
in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10454713
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