RE: Write-up: DLE-20 reed valve block mod
[quote]ORIGINAL: raptureboy Would I benefit from this if I'm not having any of these particular issues? I have 4 of these engines and they all run pretty much right on, easy start smooth transition, etc. I have been thinking about changing the rings. I have a new one not yet mounted so I may take it apart and see what it looks like. Thanks again. [/quote] Don't fix it if it ain't broke. [:D]
Posted on: 5/15/2013 7:26 AM by Author "grosbeak" in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11512170

RE: Repairing an RTF wing - my Hobbistar 60 trainer
In the meantime, that other patch on the starboard wing has been sanded flush. [url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/rests/7957434592/][img]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8035/7957434592_fd2cedbc69_z.jpg[/img][/url] The shape of the wingtip has also been refined, both to the contour of the wing... [url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/rests/7957417798/][img]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8179/7957417798_68e9a902e9_z.jpg[/img][/url] ... and the wingtip itself. [url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/rests/7957424636/][img]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8031/7957424636_74271e5cba_z.jpg[/img][/url]
Posted on: 9/9/2012 4:15 AM by Author "grosbeak" in the forum "Crash & Rebuild"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11222533

RE: Repairing an RTF wing - my Hobbistar 60 trainer
Back to the wing sheeting. After it sat for a few days I took it out of the robe and trimmed it to length. It was certainly saturated. [url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/rests/7952096288/][img]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8309/7952096288_b0efa0b50a_z.jpg[/img][/url] After the starboard wing repair I had decided to try a different method that wouldn't require a joint at the leading edge. So I marked a centre line on the wing and the sheeting... [url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/rests/7952100846/][img]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8038/7952100846_6f8c78f5be_z.jpg[/img][/url] ... pinned it in place... [url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/rests/7952121246/][img]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8314/7952121246_50ac992cf8_z.jpg[/img][/url] ... and placed magazines to shape it. [url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/rests/7952135404/][img]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8171/7952135404_e2e685afd6_z.jpg[/img][/url] I'll leave that for a couple of days.
Posted on: 9/7/2012 4:38 PM by Author "grosbeak" in the forum "Crash & Rebuild"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11221151

RE: Repairing an RTF wing - my Hobbistar 60 trainer
While the sheeting was soaking I cut and glued the two pieces of balsa that would form the new port wingtip. [url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/rests/7946589102/][img]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8458/7946589102_f1c7df2d64_z.jpg[/img][/url] I traced the outline from the starboard wing as best I could (keeping in mind that I was after a mirror image, not an exact copy) and cut out the VERY rough shape on the band saw. [url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/rests/7946616578/][img]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8297/7946616578_ba75d66c74_z.jpg[/img][/url] I plan to work it closer to size then, once the sheeting is done, attach it to the wing before doing the final shaping.
Posted on: 9/7/2012 4:32 PM by Author "grosbeak" in the forum "Crash & Rebuild"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11221148

RE: Repairing an RTF wing - my Hobbistar 60 trainer
I finished the sheeting repair of the starboard wing. I soaked the second sheet for a couple of days, which was a big improvement over moistening one side of the first one. Far from perfect, but not bad for a first go. [url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/rests/7946564090/][img]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8447/7946564090_a889418d02_z.jpg[/img][/url] Turns out there was another part of the starboard wing that needed a patch. [url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/rests/7946608926/][img]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8296/7946608926_10e8b79ffb_z.jpg[/img][/url] After that, I started soaking the sheeting for the port wing. I didn't have a big enough container for three feet of balsa, so I improvised with what I [i]did[/i] have - some insulation board and an old robe in the rag drawer. I soaked the robe and laid it out on the board, then put the sheeting on the robe... [url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/rests/7946573006/][img]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8438/7946573006_e43669e97e_z.jpg[/img][/url] ... and folded the robe over. I poured water over it every day - it sat for several because I didn't have time to get to the sheeting repair. [url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/rests/7946568430/][img]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8033/7946568430_bb39b62c53_z.jpg[/img][/url]
Posted on: 9/7/2012 4:18 PM by Author "grosbeak" in the forum "Crash & Rebuild"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11221137

RE: Good 2nd Low Wing?
Another vote for the Pulse. I have the 125 XT, but by all accounts the 60 XT is a great flyer too.
Posted on: 8/23/2012 7:26 AM by Author "grosbeak" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11203279

RE: Repairing an RTF wing - my Hobbistar 60 trainer
The patch turned out well after sanding. [url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/rests/7827318954/][img]http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7263/7827318954_8f2cc6d16c_z.jpg[/img][/url] And I continued gluing the wing sheeting. [url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/rests/7827325202/][img]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8298/7827325202_a3e1105508_z.jpg[/img][/url] I came across some information on how wetting one side of the sheeting will bend it away - I'm working on that now.
Posted on: 8/21/2012 7:36 AM by Author "grosbeak" in the forum "Crash & Rebuild"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11200805

RE: Repairing an RTF wing - my Hobbistar 60 trainer
While the glue for the sheeting cured, I took a look at a hole in the sheeting that was closer to the wing root. I cleaned out the splintered pieces, gave it a simple shape and beveled the edges with a razor blade. [url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/rests/7785443806/][img]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8441/7785443806_267a17be9a_z.jpg[/img][/url] I used a piece of broken sheeting from the port wing to make the patch, and beveled the back edges. [url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/rests/7785474398/][img]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8429/7785474398_f0178aaaca_z.jpg[/img][/url] Then it was just a matter of adding some glue and securing it in place while the glue cured. [url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/rests/7785483996/][img]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8433/7785483996_73de240b32_z.jpg[/img][/url] Later, it will be sanded smooth.
Posted on: 8/15/2012 6:58 AM by Author "grosbeak" in the forum "Crash & Rebuild"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11194235

RE: Repairing an RTF wing - my Hobbistar 60 trainer
Thanks for the positive feedback, folks. Turning back to the starboard wing, I cut the leading edge to length and glued it into place. During the process I used a pair of end cutters to trim the leading edge ribs flush. [url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/rests/7785426882/][img]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8301/7785426882_eb37bfd91c_z.jpg[/img][/url] Once the leading edge was shaped, I started the sheeting process. I figured it was better to start with the starboard wing because the leading edge repair is small. I hope the experience I gain will serve me well when I undertake the sheeting for the port wing. I didn't find much online about sheeting but I figured it was better to start at the base and work towards the leading edge. [url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/rests/7785437832/][img]http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7123/7785437832_ce67a56d53_z.jpg[/img][/url]
Posted on: 8/15/2012 6:47 AM by Author "grosbeak" in the forum "Crash & Rebuild"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11194221

RE: Repairing an RTF wing - my Hobbistar 60 trainer
[quote]ORIGINAL: Live Wire Remember to put the same amount of weight on the other wing to make it ballance looks like a great repair job[;)] Larry K [/quote] Will do, Larry - thanks for the reminder.
Posted on: 8/8/2012 7:23 AM by Author "grosbeak" in the forum "Crash & Rebuild"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11185455

RE: Repairing an RTF wing - my Hobbistar 60 trainer
I mentioned a post or two ago that I cut the ribs in the wrong grain. My solution was to make stiffeners out of 3/32" balsa, 1/2" wide. Cut in the correct grain this time. Luckily, they don't weigh too much. [url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/rests/7736583554/][img]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8430/7736583554_a86220bfd2_z.jpg[/img][/url] One went on each side of each rib. Now they're much more rigid. [url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/rests/7736598886/][img]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8425/7736598886_187f1aa2c9_z.jpg[/img][/url]
Posted on: 8/8/2012 5:03 AM by Author "grosbeak" in the forum "Crash & Rebuild"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11185305

RE: Repairing an RTF wing - my Hobbistar 60 trainer
After the ribs were on, it was time for the leading edge. The piece I chose was a little (read: WAY) too thick so I brought the whole thing over to the band saw for a trim. [url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/rests/7736540590/][img]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8282/7736540590_06b0937816_z.jpg[/img][/url] There - that's better. But still square. [url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/rests/7736547114/][img]http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7268/7736547114_9463ca5860_z.jpg[/img][/url] I tried using my large block plane to round the corners but it's way too big for such delicate work. Enter Lee Valley Tools and the [url=http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=50232&cat=1,41182]miniature block plane[/url]. [url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/rests/7736568160/][img]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8289/7736568160_b7f69d20da_z.jpg[/img][/url] After a long time spent planing and sanding, the proper shape of the leading edge emerged. [url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/rests/7736573012/][img]http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7115/7736573012_039eea973c_z.jpg[/img][/url]
Posted on: 8/8/2012 5:01 AM by Author "grosbeak" in the forum "Crash & Rebuild"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11185303

RE: Repairing an RTF wing - my Hobbistar 60 trainer
So - onwards and upwards. I set the starboard wing aside and turned my attention to port. None of the rib stumps were big enough to provide support for the new ribs, so they all came off. Afterwards I prepped the main spar, planing off all of the remaining stubs and any glue. [url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/rests/7729044372/][img]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8287/7729044372_8f73757630_z.jpg[/img][/url] After a couple of not-so-great attempts at making a cardboard template for the ribs, I removed one of the two intact ribs to use instead. That did the trick. [url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/rests/7729062310/][img]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8288/7729062310_c06f93e289_z.jpg[/img][/url] Shortly afterwards all the ribs were in place, supported at the base by tri-stock. I made a mistake, though... [url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/rests/7729084774/][img]http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7251/7729084774_82c85fd405_z.jpg[/img][/url] ... I cut the ribs in the wrong grain. I fixed that later.
Posted on: 8/8/2012 5:00 AM by Author "grosbeak" in the forum "Crash & Rebuild"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11185300

Repairing an RTF wing - my Hobbistar 60 trainer
I learned to fly last year with a Hobbico Hobbistar 60 Mk III select - an RTF. This spring while I was flying I dumb-thumbed it into a tree. I was lucky enough to get it back, and just the wing was damaged. [url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/rests/6991134171/][img]http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7047/6991134171_6125156af2_z.jpg[/img][/url] The starboard wing took a hit on the leading edge and cracked near the root. The port wing left its leading edge and tip in the top of the tree. [url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/rests/6851278994/][img]http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6058/6851278994_0e095f553d_z.jpg[/img][/url] A replacement wing is a reasonable $90. I decided to rebuild it myself for the experience and to save money*. The purpose of this thread is to follow my progress. *Ha!
Posted on: 8/8/2012 4:59 AM by Author "grosbeak" in the forum "Crash & Rebuild"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11185299

RE: H9 Pulse 125 DLE 20 questions
I am running a Pulse 125 with a DLE and it's a nice combination but: - I have replaced the stock gear with TNT gear to address prop clearance and noseover issues - I have ditched the elevator control rods in favour of dual external elevator servos and have replaced the rudder control rod with a pull-pull system, and - I have glued AND bolted the tail to the fuse. There are a lot of folks running the Pulse 125 with the DLE 20 - as far as I've seen nobody has modified it as much as I have, but I don't know if there's anyone who has left those three items completely stock.
Posted on: 7/16/2012 7:14 AM by Author "grosbeak" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11157145

RE: Opti-kill stays live when Tx shut off
Thanks for the feedback, everyone. I understand what's going on - my Futaba T7C Tx has a default fail safe on channel 3 that can be set to (a) hold last position or (b) move to custom specified position. I chose the latter with the custom throttle position at idle.
Posted on: 6/26/2012 9:52 AM by Author "grosbeak" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11132472

Opti-kill stays live when Tx shut off
When I installed my Smart Fly Opti-Kill I ran it through a battery of tests and got the results I expected: In order for the ignition to be live four conditions had to be met. 1. Receiver on 2. Ignition on 3. Transmitter on 4. Transmitter kill switch (B) in contact position (up) I tested the conditions via the LED indication light in several sequences, turning different switches on and off to ensure everything behaved as expected. I don't know if I tested this particular sequence at the time or if it's a new wrinkle... [B]If I turn off the transmitter while the ignition is live, the ignition remains live.[/B] I tested this with the engine running and it's definitely happening. The question is, why? And what to do about it? Here's how it's wired: Receiver end: [url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/rests/6440904041/][img]http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7030/6440904041_0b6005ef40.jpg[/img][/url] Ignition end: [url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/rests/6638980969/][img]http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7161/6638980969_c8baa5731e.jpg[/img][/url] Any and all advice would be appreciated. Thanks in advance!
Posted on: 6/25/2012 9:07 AM by Author "grosbeak" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11131050

RE: NEW DLE 20cc Gasser! (Data & Links 1st Post)
Lesson learned: Anything loose can get sucked into the engine. [url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/rests/7426878708/][img]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8149/7426878708_30c0038a4b.jpg[/img][/url] See the whole story at [url=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_11125288/anchors_11125288/mpage_1/key_/anchor/tm.htm#11125288]DLE 20 won't stay running[/url].
Posted on: 6/25/2012 1:01 AM by Author "grosbeak" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11130640

DLE 20 won't stay running
My DLE 20 will start with the choke closed but won't stay running regardless of choke or throttle setting. It is installed in a Pulse 125 XT and swings a 16 x 8 prop. The fuel is Shell V-Power gas at a 32:1 ratio with Stihl premium 2-stroke dino oil. There is a filter in my 5L gas can, one on the fill line for the tank and another on the carburetor draw line (the latter two are part of the clunks). The engine has run fine for the gallon and a half that has gone through it up to now. [b]BACKGROUND[/b] [B]2012-06-06 - At the field[/B] Several flights with engine running well [B]2012-06-09 - At the field[/B] At the field - Right at first start, engine running extremely rich. CFI help me tune it (~3/32 turns leaner on the high end, ~1/32 turn leaner on the low end). Ran better than ever. [B]2012-06-13 - At the field[/B] At the field - Good takeoff, one circuit, setting up for aerobatic practice. 50 ft into a vertical upline engine cuts out and nearly quits. Brought it down for a landing, engine still idling. I shut the engine off. On the table, could not get it to run with the choke open at any throttle setting. I checked the choke and throttle linkages and both were fine. I swapped in a known working spark plug - no difference. [B]2012-06-17 - At home[/B] Looking over the airplane I see that the gas tank has a split in the neck: [url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/rests/7408743868/][img]http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7129/7408743868_a29743666d.jpg[/img][/url] I got a new tank and plumbed it. I needed to install a new fuel line between the engine and the tank because of the neck location of the new tank. I took the plane outside and started the engine, but there was no real difference. Not surprising after I learned that the Walbro carb draws up the gas from the engine instead of relying on pressure or gravity. [b]2012-06-19 - At home[/b] I removed the carburetor cover and gasket to inspect the carb fuel filter and didn't see any debris. To be sure, I gently brushed it off with a trimmed acid brush. I took the plane outside, closed the Low and High needles all the way and opened them to the factory settings of 1.1 and 1.5 turns respectively. I started the engine, but no difference. I opened L needle 1/10 of a turn through 1.2, 1.3, 1.4 and 1.5 turns successively. No difference, but then I freely admit that I know next to nothing about tuning engines. I also checked the ignition battery, a 4.8V 4200 mAH NiMH. Under a 1.0A load it produced just under 5V. [B]2012-06-20 - At home[/B] Ignition battery fully charged. Now shows 5.53V @ 1.0A Ignition test complete and successful - sparks with every rotation of the prop [B]2012-06-22 - At home[/B] Opti-kill disconnected. Both needles opened 2.5 turns. Engine started and ran; acceleration tests usually cause it to bog or quit. Gradually closed L in ¼ turns to 1.75 turns. Running and idle and up to half throttle improved but would not run past half throttle. Each time the engine died it was more difficult to start. Removed the plug to check for flooding but it was dry. Opti-kill does not appear to be part of the problem but I will leave it disconnected until the problem is solved. This definitely appears to be a fuel flow issue. The cause (vacuum loss, debris, ?) is still unknown. [color=#FF0000][b]2012-06-23 - At home[/b] Front bearing tested for leaks with soapy water - no bubbles Carb removed from engine Debris in reed valve assembly spotted. [url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/rests/7426853538/][img]http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7116/7426853538_c18b047ea1.jpg[/img][/url] Debris (determined to be epoxy broken loose from firewall ballast) removed (carefully) and reed valve assembly inspected - appears good Small amount of debris flushed from crankcase with carb cleaner and acid swab Crankcase, crankshaft and lower cylinder inspected - appears good Low and High needles reset to factory specs of 1.1 and 1.5 turns respectively Engine started - runs perfectly![/color] The ballast attachment has been cleaned up and reglued, much more securely. To all the contributors who shared their time and advice, thank you. I am sincerely grateful.
Posted on: 6/23/2012 12:07 PM by Author "grosbeak" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11125288

RE: DLE 20 won't stay running
SUCCESS! I did the air leak test at the front bearing - no dice. The problem was in the reed valve... as soon as I got the carburetor off it was pretty obvious! [url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/rests/7426844116/][img]http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7266/7426844116_0dee2df4c0.jpg[/img][/url] [url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/rests/7426878708/][img]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8149/7426878708_9b6ebc00ba.jpg[/img][/url] Those are pieces of epoxy from where the ballast was glued onto the back side of the firewall. That area has since been totally redone (properly this time) and cleaned. Once the pieces were removed, both reeds closed properly. Unfortunately some had gotten into the crankcase... [url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/rests/7426868928/][img]http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5321/7426868928_55b7f621ce.jpg[/img][/url] I cleaned it thoroughly with carb cleaner and an acid brush. Here's what was removed: [url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/rests/7426883902/][img]http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5443/7426883902_f0cff4b92b.jpg[/img][/url] There was no damage visible to the eye. Once it was all carefully cleaned and reassembled I took it outside, reset the low and high needles to 1.1 and 1.5 turns respectively and started the engine. It ran perfectly. Hopefully the life of the engine will not be reduced. In any case I will chalk this up to experience. There's a lesson to learned here: Anything loose in behind the firewall can get sucked into the engine. Therefore, make sure there is nothing loose behind the firewall! Thank you for your help and advice, everyone. Much appreciated!
Posted on: 6/23/2012 12:06 PM by Author "grosbeak" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11128900

RE: DLE 20 won't stay running
[quote]ORIGINAL: darrolair quote: ORIGINAL: darrolair This has been posted here before by JediJodi, but here it is again. This time pay attention: Excuse me? It was cut and paste that rode along. No hurt feelings intended. [/quote] Gotcha - thanks for the clarification. Tears dried, feelings mended. :p
Posted on: 6/23/2012 11:44 AM by Author "grosbeak" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11128883

RE: DLE 20 won't stay running
[quote]ORIGINAL: darrolair This has been posted here before by JediJodi, but here it is again. [b]This time pay attention[/b]: [/quote] Excuse me? [&o] [quote]Troubleshooting guide for RcExl ignitions If you have no spark or think you are having an ignition problem, carefully following this guide will test the ignition module, hall sensor, and spark plug cap components. This guide can be used for single or twin cylinder ignitions; it does not test the manual or any optical ignition switches that may be in the system. You will need a good fully charged 4 cell NiCd or NiMH battery, an old servo extension, and your trusty volt meter. Take an old expendable servo extension and cut off the male plug end, separate the wires, strip a bit of insulation from each of the 3 leads and plug the other end into the sensor lead on the ignition module. Put a good spark plug in the cap, doesn't need to be all the way seated but far enough for the hex of the plug to make good contact with the metal shell of the plug cap, plug a fully charged 4 cell battery directly into the ignition. Test for battery voltage at the red and black wires of the test extension you made and plugged into the sensor lead of the module, if there is no voltage replace the module, if there is battery voltage: Short the white and black wires together, every time you break this connection there should be a spark, if there is no spark or intermittent spark you have a bad module. If you get a good spark: Remove the test lead and plug the sensor on the engine into the module and turn the engine over, if no spark, replace the sensor. If you have a good spark: Remove the spark plug, look down into the plug cap and turn the engine over, if you see spark arcing through the silicone boot to the metal shell, replace the spark plug cap. If there is no visible spark but you hear a snap: Put a small screw driver into the bottom of the cap, turn the engine over and you should observe spark jumping from the screw driver to the plug cap shell outside of the silicone boot, an arc of about 1/4''-3/8''. If it does this there is nothing wrong with the ignition. If you hear an arc but it's not in the cap with the screw driver, it could be a problem with the resistor in the cap or the high tension lead where it goes into the cap, replace the plug cap. All of this can be done on a bench; the plug does not need to be grounded to the engine. As Jodi would say: Now go outside and play! [/quote] Good information. At this point I feel the problem is more likely related to insufficient fuel flow, especially since the plug was dry when I pulled it after the last test. If my next steps fail to resolve the problem, I'll test the ignition.
Posted on: 6/22/2012 5:59 PM by Author "grosbeak" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11128263

RE: DLE 20 won't stay running
[B]2012-06-22 - At home[/B] Opti-kill disconnected. Both needles opened 2.5 turns. Engine started and ran; acceleration tests usually cause it to bog or quit. Gradually closed L in ¼ turns to 1.75 turns. Running and idle and up to half throttle improved but would not run past half throttle. Each time the engine died it was more difficult to start. Removed the plug to check for flooding but it was dry. Opti-kill does not appear to be part of the problem but I will leave it disconnected until the problem is solved. This definitely appears to be a fuel flow issue. The cause (vacuum loss, debris, ?) is still unknown. [B]Next steps[/B] [*]Check front bearing for vacuum leak (apply soapy water while turning over engine) [*]Remove carburetor from engine [*]Remove reed valve assembly from engine [*]Inspect reed valve for debris [*]Disassemble carburetor //document with photos [*]Clean carburetor with carburetor cleaner and assemble parts in foil dish //in order [*]Reassemble carburetor [*]Reinstall carburetor on engine [*]test engine
Posted on: 6/22/2012 5:41 PM by Author "grosbeak" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11128244

RE: DLE 20 won't stay running
[quote]ORIGINAL: darrolair http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_9863953/tm.htm For diagosing unplug optikill and hookup directly. [/quote] Thanks for the tip - I'll do that.
Posted on: 6/22/2012 4:43 AM by Author "grosbeak" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11127478

RE: DLE 20 won't stay running
[quote]ORIGINAL: BarracudaHockey What spark plug? [/quote] The problems started with the factory plug - I swapped in an NGK CM-6 and there was no change.
Posted on: 6/21/2012 5:18 AM by Author "grosbeak" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11126288

RE: DLE 20 won't stay running
[B]2012-06-20 - At home[/B] Ignition battery fully charged. Now shows 5.53V @ 1.0A Ignition test complete and successful - sparks with every rotation of the prop
Posted on: 6/20/2012 5:39 PM by Author "grosbeak" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11125856

RE: DLE 20 won't stay running
[quote]ORIGINAL: dignlivn Are you sure your getting spark at the plug ?[/quote] I'm getting some... the engine does run for a bit... [quote]Try a fully charged battery,check ground wire.[/quote] I'm charging the ignition battery as we speak [quote]Opti kill ??[/quote] Yep - it seems to be working - the LED I've installed does come on when the ignition switch and Tx kill switch are on. [quote]hand flipping ? or starter ? Bob [/quote] Starter.
Posted on: 6/20/2012 4:40 PM by Author "grosbeak" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11125786

RE: *Hangar 9 New Pulse 125*
[quote]ORIGINAL: tailskid Put the DLE 20 in today with a Sullivan Mount and noticed I won't be able to get to the high/low speed adjustment needles - oh well, I'll just have to tinker with that later. Do have a question about the choke and throttle arrangements - how'd you guys link those up? Jerry [/quote] My throttle hookup uses Sullivan Gold-n-Rods and a Sullivan ball link: [url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/rests/6632023675/][img]http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7158/6632023675_fd7c5d6430.jpg[/img][/url] For the choke, I made a bell crank from spare parts: [url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/rests/6474977915/][img]http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7166/6474977915_f01aa6c7e4.jpg[/img][/url] [url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/rests/6480119881/][img]http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7021/6480119881_be95566a21.jpg[/img][/url] The lever exits out the bottom: [url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/rests/6757791881/][img]http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7149/6757791881_f9604947b5.jpg[/img][/url] I pull it out to close the choke and push it in to open.
Posted on: 6/14/2012 12:10 PM by Author "grosbeak" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11118211

RE: Pulse 125 - first flights
[quote]ORIGINAL: bikerbc Well Grosbeak  I actually feel like a bit of a fool because I had already ordered a gear from TNT before I tried to relocate the Pulse's own gear..I just got impatient waiting..I now have a really nice extra gear from TNT that I could use if the orginal fails...Or I will use it on somthing else..TNT makes nice gear...I just thought I might be able to save sombody a few dollars by sharing how easy moving the gear ahead is...Plus you dont have to wait....  [/quote] The tip is much appreciated - and it might help someone else!
Posted on: 5/23/2012 3:18 AM by Author "grosbeak" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11091411

RE: Pulse 125 - first flights
Moving the gear forward seems to be a popular choice - glad it works for you. I upgraded my wheels from the stock 3-1/4" to 4"... [url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/rests/7244622620/][img]http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7236/7244622620_efd6797ced.jpg[/img][/url] ... and the new configuration allowed me to remove 1-1/2 oz of ballast weight from the back of the firewall. I flew the new setup yesterday. It's still great in the air, and now all ground handling problems are gone.
Posted on: 5/22/2012 7:04 AM by Author "grosbeak" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11090269