RE: House of Balsa - Chea Pass - Stick
Skyraider71, you're correct this thing is built pretty (old school) heavy. And actually if I built another one I'd probably shorten the wing by one rib, and an OS 20 would REALLY make it scream. I'm not real sure you'll like the performance of the LA 10, but it IS a newer engine than my OS 15 FP so it may develope as much or more horse power. Otherwise it might be a tad under powered if you like having a little EXTRA umph. Mr. E, yep been building for quite a few years just got in a hurry to post the pictures. I REALLY should have put pinholes in the Monocote under the Trim Monocote. Scar, "YES!" I fly at WRCF in Washington IL. Move up here last July and joined the club. I'm ACTUALY an Instructor...very scary. If we haven't met already I hope we do soon, I'm David Lykins.
Posted on: 8/25/2012 4:30 PM by Author "guitardude" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11205879

RE: ENYA .09 - Best Glow Plug? Can I machine the head down?
Thanks EVERYONE for ALL the GREAT information. I GREATLY appreciate it. I figured a bunch of people here on RCU would have the answer. Thanks again!
Posted on: 8/23/2012 10:21 AM by Author "guitardude" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11203516

House of Balsa - Chea Pass - Stick
I'm finally getting around to posting my most current nitro kit build, a House of Balsa Chea Pass. This is essentially a .15 size Stick type aircraft with a 34 inch wing span. I have to admit, these Laser Cut kits are just awesome to assemble, its like putting a puzzle together but already knowing where most of the pieces fit. About the only real modifications I did to this plane was to make the wings so they attach with nylon screws instead of the rubber-band system the plans indicate and installing dual aileron servos for the ailerons. I did the dual aileron mod' because it gets a little cramped in the fuse' to install FM gear. a 2.4Ghz receiver would have provided a little more room to work with. Building - the kit has the usual box type fuselage, solid tail surfaces and built up wing. However, with the laser cut parts and the way the pieces fall together it REALLY makes the kit a no brainier to build even though there are actually NO FULL SIZE PLANS. Yep, that's right, the plans are essentially once piece of paper with drawings and instruction on the front and back on how to assemble the plane. One really awesome thing is that ALL the individual parts in the kit are Laser marked with the part number on them. Flying - On the first flight I was surprised and quite pleased that I only had to dial in a couple of clicks of right aileron. I'm using an older O.S. .15 FP for power and an 8X4 prop. Once in the air that engine and prop combo pull the plane with plenty of speed, though as I found out, if you make a REALLY dumb maneuver like a wild spin towards the grout it takes longer than expected to pull the plane out of the maneuver. How ever, with that said this plane is a BLAST to fly, I just wish I had a 20 size engine to put on it or one of those "fancy" O.S. .15 CV-A, that would be really cool. Even with the OS. .15 FP this planes flies quite fast and can do some really WILD maneuvers. Would I buy it again? - ABSOLUTELY! This plane is easy to build and a blast to fly. It would probably make a GREAT club pylon racer since its so inexpensive. One of the funnest .15 size planes I've EVER had.
Posted on: 8/4/2012 2:05 PM by Author "guitardude" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11180903

RE: Herr Engineering - Star Lite
Finally found my original post with detailed pictures on the build and using the "Iron on" Hem material for hinges. Here's the original Link: www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_10729711/anchors_10729711/mpage_1/key_/anchor/tm.htm#10729711
Posted on: 8/4/2012 1:36 PM by Author "guitardude" in the forum "Park Flyers & Backyard Flyers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11180881

RE: Scratch built ??
Not bad "slowstang88", if you'd like to build a kit next time you might want to look at the Herr Engineering Star Lite, Its supose to be a three channel, throttle, aelirons and rudder but I decide I couldn't live with out aelirons so I modified the wings. Here's a link to my thread www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_11179008/tm.htm If you get bored, let me know what you think. Give me a shout if you have any questions.
Posted on: 8/4/2012 1:30 PM by Author "guitardude" in the forum "Park Flyers & Backyard Flyers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11180877

Herr Engineering - Star Lite
A while back I started a post on building the Herr Engineering - Starlite. I guess it can be best described as a laser cut, three (3) channel trainer (KIT) with a 36" wing span and should weigh around 4-6 Oz.. I purchased the kit from SIG off their site, its currently $26.99. It was originally designed for NiMih and brushed motor. Of course since we now have tons of brushless and LiPo power combinations I obviously opted for that. I purchased a Welgard 2204 with ESC for about $30. Since I just had to had ailerons I obviously had to do some modification to the kit but in the end it was well worth it. One main problem I had while building the kit was what to use to hinge the control surfaces. Ah-ha, I remember way back when SIG used to sell these cloth iron on hinges.....and of course I couldn't find them anywhere not even on SIG's site. So I was wondering through Walmart and went to the sowing section. Hummmm....... I bet these "Iron-On" cloth hemming strips would work. And they DID! The three main modifications I did was cut and trim the leading edges of the ribs to accommodate the ailerons, installed dual aileron servos therefore I had to make trays for the servos to mount in. Since the wing was so thin the ailerons had to be mounted parallel to the leading edged instead of the usual 90 degree mounting. I also took out about 1/2 of the dihedral the plans indicated. So far its been a GREAT flying plane, however I covered the aircraft with "Solar Film - So Lite" from Radical RC. I had a tough time keeping the lightly framed tail pieces from warping when tightening up the covering. I still have a slight warp in the horizontal stab. All in all the kit was a GREAT kit to build and went together quite well. I would highly recommend this kit, the instructions and prints are well labeled and laid out. Also since the field I currently fly at has a pretty rough grass runway, I opted to leave the wheels off, but it glides in EXTREMELY SMOOTH for landings. I also have pictures of the build but I had trouble loading them, if interested let me know and I'll try to reload them
Posted on: 8/2/2012 4:40 PM by Author "guitardude" in the forum "Park Flyers & Backyard Flyers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11179008

ENYA .09 - Best Glow Plug? Can I machine the head down?
Hello all, I have an ENYA .09 nitro engine, that has an unusual head, sort of like a Heli engine head. I haven't found much about the engine anywhere and have NEVER seen one with the larger "Heli" looking head. I've as yet to put it in an airplane, but I'm thinking of installing the engine in a Global Models, Baby Birdi though the specs call for an .074 as the largest engine, I also have an AP .061 WASP "NEW" in the box. The Global Models, Baby Birdi is an older kit probably from the late 80s, sort of like a mini pattern plane. I have run the engine a couple of times and it seemed to run quite well with an O.S. #8 glow plug and an APC 8x4 Prop, however sometimes its difficult to get it started. I'll try to get a picture uploaded to reference. 1. Is the O.S. #8 the best plug for it, I do have a couple of A3s but nothing else for 2 strokes? 2. Can I cut or turn down the large head the engine has on a metal lathe (or should I just leave it alone)? Any help is greatly appreciatied. Thanks!
Posted on: 8/2/2012 3:31 PM by Author "guitardude" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11178870

RE: Hangar 9 Servos - Replacement Parts/Gears
Thanks Zeeb, I'll check it out. I may have an "ST47BB" to compare it to......I'll have to see. Thanks again.
Posted on: 7/21/2012 3:11 PM by Author "guitardude" in the forum "RC Radios, Transmitters, Receivers, Servos, gyros"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11163798

Hangar 9 Servos - Replacement Parts/Gears
I have several "Hangar 9" model "S300" servos, one has stripped gears and I was wondering if anyone knows if you can get replacement gears for these servos? Seems to me I sent an E-mail to Horizon Hobbies and they indicated that they didn't carry replacement parts for "Hangar 9" servos. I'm assuming that they are were most likely made by JR as that's the transmitter the Trainer came with. I havent' pulled it apart yet, but I'm assuming that its probably equivelant to a JR 407 or some type of older JR Sport servo. Any help is GREATLY appreciated. THANKS!
Posted on: 7/19/2012 3:36 PM by Author "guitardude" in the forum "RC Radios, Transmitters, Receivers, Servos, gyros"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11161639

RE: Sig/Herr Eng. - Starlite Build - Adding Alerions
I've made quite a bit of progress since I posted last time, I've completed all the frame up and am starting to cover the aircraft. However, before go on, I had a delima as to how I was going to hinge the rudder, elevator and alerions, and I remember in the past someone like SIG made iron on cloth/tape hinges. I couldn't find the SIG stuff, but went Walmart an purchased some frabric "iron-on" mending tape (see pic' below). It's 1.25" wide and 36" long, and I believe it was less than $2.00. Well, got home and tried it on two scrap peices of wood and to my delight I was able to iron the material and it worked perfectly as a hinge. However I was a little leary that it might pull apart, "NOPE!", I pulled on the two peices of scrap balsa and couldn't pull them apart. YEA it worked! If you zoom in on the picture of the entire airframe, you can see the small strips of iron-on fabric I cut to use for the hinges. ALL the control surfaces will be angled on one side only at on a plane this small its nearly impossible to get the iron-on tape into the crevis for the hinges, therefore I opted to sand ONLY one side and ironed the tape to the "flat" side of the hinged surfaces. Now that we have that out of the way, I had to decide how much material to cut off the trailing edge of the wings in order to accomodate alerions. I took a couple of measurements from my SIG Four Star 40 and determined that I needed to take about 1/2 inch off my trailing edge of my ribs. I Stacked the ribs up about four at a time and proceeded to cut 1/2" of trailing edge off of each wing rib. The pain in the rear part was that, ALL the parts on this plane are lazer cut, and I had to cut a notch in the bottom and top of each rib's trailing edge in order to accommodate the top and bottom trailing edge sheeting. Needless to say they didn't come out perfect, but once I got the wing framed up and sanded the trailing edge sheeting flush the entire lenth of the wing, everything started to look pretty good. Next I took standard "Alerion Stock" and determined how much of the standard stock I would need to cut off lengthwise. I haven't cut the alerions to width yet, I believe I'm going to have to cut them using a steal ruler, as I don't have a miniature bandsaw. You should be able to notice from the picture that essentially I cut the width of the "trailing edge" off the wing ribs to accommodate the alerions, thus the alerions will be the remaing 1/2" or so. I had some "Solar Film - Solite" Covering left over from another small kit I made so I decided to just go ahead and use the same two colors, a tranparent blue and a transparent yellow.
Posted on: 10/29/2011 7:35 PM by Author "guitardude" in the forum "Electric Aerobatic & Sport Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10788735

Sig/Herr Eng. - Starlite Build - Adding Alerions
Hello eveyone, I just recieved my [b]Starlite[/b] I ordered from Sig the other day, I've been flying been flying since the 80s so I'm [b]REALLY[/b][i][/i] used to planes with Alerions and we ALL know how much more fun you can have with four channels versus three. Anyway, I was wondering if any of you had purchased a Starlite and built it with Alerion? If so, I'd be very interested in how you built/made your Alerions and modified your wing. In addition, and I'm assuming that the motor and battery pack I already have will provide effecient power, I have a new [b]Welgard 2204 & 10Amp ESC [/b]that I purchased from Grayson Hobby that I have never used. [b]The motor is rated at 75 Watts and for a plane up to 9 oz.[/b] Currently the largest battery pack I have that I can utilize is a [b]11.1v, 20C 800Mha Blue Lipo [/b]from Hobby Partz. I believe this combination should provide the Starlite with more than adequate power, but sometimes being an "old nitro guy" I have a tendancy to underestamate the motor/battery pack combo, so your advice is welcome. However, I have created a nice EXCEL spreadsheet to assist me and from the calculations I did, it appears that the combination should work fine. So if you have any information on adding the Alerions to this plane and maybe verify that my power combo will fly the plane it would be much appreciated. Thanks!
Posted on: 10/29/2011 6:47 PM by Author "guitardude" in the forum "Electric Aerobatic & Sport Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10729711

RE: R/C herr engineering Bonanza completed
Thanks for the post, I just started a Herr Engineering - Starlite, have a post here on RCU about the build (see link below). Going to try to add alerions and remove some of the diheadral in the wings to maket it a little more fun to fly. I"ve opted to cover my Starlite with the "Solite Solar film" Radical RC sells since I had some. www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_10729711/anchors_10729711/mpage_1/key_/anchor/tm.htm#10729711 My next challenge may be building a Gullows Piper Cub I purchased and converting it to RC. That should be interesting if I do it. Nice build!
Posted on: 10/24/2011 10:14 AM by Author "guitardude" in the forum "Park Flyers & Backyard Flyers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10780190

RE: Sig/Herr Eng. - Starlite Build - Adding Alerions
Well, looks like not many people have built a Herr Engineering - Starlite, so I decided to document my build just incase some of you actually enjoy building from a box of sticks. Personally, when I have the time, I'd MUCH RATHER build a kit than an ARF. Plus it doesn't look like everone elses ARF once you get done. With that said, I've already framed up the tail peices and the fuselauge and will be starting to build the wings in the next couple of days. My goal for the build is to NOT ONLY put alerions on the aircraft, but to also remove some or most of the dihedrial in the wing as I wont need as much dihedrial once I put alerions on the wings. I'll try to post pictures of the build as I go just in case, as I said, someone else wants to build one of these with alerions. I have checked out several videos on YouTube showing the Starlite flying, it actually flys pretty darn good without alerions, but I just have to have them.......plus it will be a challenge to incorporate them into the wings. Also, believe it or not, they have you make the wheels, yep, they're laminated balsa and hardwood, I stuck a picture of the laminations on here for fun. Note that I pinned the spoke peice on the building board and then layerd on top of that, the four pins ensure that the two spoke laminates and outer rims align properly when gluing. Though I've made both wheel, I'll probably break down an purchase some light "electric/foam" wheels for the final model.
Posted on: 10/20/2011 5:12 PM by Author "guitardude" in the forum "Electric Aerobatic & Sport Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10775234

RE: OS 46/55 bearings bad again!
I've been flying since the 80s and used OS 2 strokes exclusively for years until they got really pricey. However, the ONLY time I've had to replace bearings in ANY of my OS engines was once when I sucked dirt into the carb and once "in the old days" I was flying using a Caster fuel, ran out of fuel and a buddy of mine gave me some of his fuel, only to find out that it was synthetic, therefore it washed ALL the Caster off the bearing and destroyed them. Never did that again. Also I NEVER USE AFTER RUN OIL! Yea I might squirt a little WD40 it my engine if I'm going to let it sit for several months, but I NEVER USE AFTER RUN OIL. My guess is that the after run oil is coating on the bearings, once you put fuel in the engine (and it DOESN'T MATTER WHOS FUEL) you're probably washing the after run oil OFF the bearings and for a short period of time you don't have a good lubricant on the bearings as the fuel hasn't saturated all the bearing surfaces yet. At 14000 RPM it will take a VERY SHORT TIME to destroy those bearings. QUIT USING THE AFTERRUN OIL. Just my humble opinion and over 15 years of flying experiance...........
Posted on: 10/20/2011 4:47 PM by Author "guitardude" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10775182

RE: Flying tips for P-51 maiden
Typically most mustangs will tip stall MUCH QUICKER that an Extra or Sukhoi. Usually the first mistake that people make with a WWII plane is that they think it should take off like their Extra, or 3d plane and NOT use much runway to get airborne. BIG MISTAKE! I've seen more guys whether its nitro or electric get a WWII plane, pull it off the ground too soon and put it into an UN-RECOVERABLE Tip stall in which winds up with a BIG crash as the plane cartwheels on its wing tips, prop and elevator. NOT a pretty site. The key thing to keep in mind with most Warbirds, hold FULL up elevator until you get some speed on the plane, once you've got some speed level your elevator (i.e. put it to neutral), the tail of the plane should start to raise off the ground. Once that starts, you can start to feed in some, but not much, up elevator and the plane should begin to lift off the ground. TOO MUCH ELEVATOR AND YOU WILL STILL TIPSTALL. LANDING, your P-51 will land somewhat like your Extra and Sukhoi, however, again it will probably tip stall much quicker, so when bringing it in just keep it level and let the plane decend naturally, once you're a couple of feet off the ground you can start to feed in some elevator, again NOT MUCH, and the nose should come up a tad and the plane should settle in. [b]If you have [u]NO[/u] problem landing the Sukhoi or the Extra [/b]you'll probably be in good shape. How ever, if most of your landings on either of those planes involve a LOT of porpusing and you're just darn glad you got the plane down, you may want someone to land it for you on the maiden. I don't know you're flying skills so its hard to provide more info'. The plane is small and you don't really need flaps, but it could come in somewhat "Hotter" and you may have to land it "Hotter" than your other two planes. I may be preaching to the choir, but several low speed passes above the paved runway will NEVER hurt you in getting the feel for your plane before you make that final landing attempt. TMHO.......that's my humble opinion. Good luck!
Posted on: 9/22/2011 7:01 PM by Author "guitardude" in the forum "Electric Aerobatic & Sport Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10729768

RE: How does this look, second plane but first electric
A few months ago I purchased another charger, mainly to charge my Lipos as my Hobbico wasn't cutting it. Anyway making a long story short, a couple of the guys at the field had purchased chargers from Hobby Partz, so I got on their site and started poking around and ended up ordering the "Thunder AC6 Smart LiPo Balance Charger/Discharger w/ AC Adapter for 1-6 Lipo/ 1-15 Nimh + USB to PC Software" This thing is [b]AWESOME[/b][i][/i][u][/u][size=3][/size]. The ONLY down side of this charger is that it will only charge one battery at a time. But this thing is VERY easy to use and works GREAT at ballancing my LIPOs while charging, and it displays EACH INDIVIDUAL CELLs voltage as it charges. Right now its about $45 at Hobby Partz.
Posted on: 9/22/2011 6:38 PM by Author "guitardude" in the forum "Electric Aerobatic & Sport Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10729737

RC Hobby Shops - Peoria IL & Vacinity
Well due to unforeseen circumstances, I've move back to East Peoria IL where I grew up. Fortunately there seems to be several good Flying Clubs in the area, HOWEVER I can't seem to find one darn good RC Aircraft Hobby Shop in the area. So, if anyone has any idea of where flyers in this area purchase, fuel, props, kits, parts etc. I'd really appreciate knowing about those hobby shops. Thanks in advance.
Posted on: 7/20/2011 6:22 PM by Author "guitardude" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10631115

RE: Grayson Hobby - ESC Programming
Thanks etarac, however I had already downloaded two different manuals for that speed controller from Grayson's site. After trying to program the speed controller on and off for the last couple of days I finally got it to work. [b]The problem, and there's NOTHING IN THE MANUAL ABOUT THIS, is not ONLY does you'r throttle control stick have to be pulled all the way to "0" BUT your "Throttle Trim" ALSO has to be set to "0", i.e. all the way negative on the display.[/b][i][/i] I had my throttle trim set at what I would consider "0" trim, as the display indicated that the trim was set exactly in the middle, but it MUST be set all the way negative in order for the speed controller to accept the brake/throttle program. Once I figured that out I got it to program the "brake" and it fired right up. Thanks for your help though. David
Posted on: 6/4/2011 5:59 AM by Author "guitardude" in the forum "Brushed/Brushless motors, speed controls, gear drives"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10556189

Grayson Hobby - ESC Programming
Hello everyon! I'm in the process of trying to program a [b]Grayson Hobbies Speed controller (20 amp[/b]) on a different radio, just going from a JR 6102 to a JR 7202 and I can't get the throttle set up. EVERYTHING else works fine. I'm assuming that once I hear the three beeps for the "Brake" I set my throttle stick to the full down/idle position. But I don't know if I'm supose to leave it there, or move it back up. Been trying to get this thing programmed for over an hour. Had the same proble when I initially got the plane set up, and have NO idea how I finally got it to work. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! David
Posted on: 5/30/2011 7:31 AM by Author "guitardude" in the forum "Brushed/Brushless motors, speed controls, gear drives"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10548060

RE: Surpass 70 and Saito 80 - Cam/Crank timing
Thanks guys, just took both engines back apart and reset the crank and cam shaft positions. Will probably try to fire both of them up some time this week. but looks like I also need a couple OS #F glow plugs first. Thanks again
Posted on: 4/17/2011 8:53 AM by Author "guitardude" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10467719

RE: Surpass 70 and Saito 80 - Cam/Crank timing
Thanks Bob, guess I'll go back down stairs and reset the timing. I should have known that it the crankshaft needed to be TDC, makes more sense when assembling. Thanks again!
Posted on: 4/16/2011 4:41 PM by Author "guitardude" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10466766

Surpass 70 and Saito 80 - Cam/Crank timing
I've just rebuilt both an OS Surpass II 70 and an older Saito 80. I have not started either engine as I'm some what leary as to wether or not I've got the valve timing correct on both engines. I'm assuming that when the piston is in the bottom of the down stroke, that both valves should be closed and the camshaft lobes should be pointing toward the bottom of the engine also. Both engines have a mark on their "camshaft gear" but I'm unsure as to where the crank shaft should be aligned with the mark on the camshaft. With no glow plug in the engine, both engines turn over by hand fine and I don't seem to be getting ANY interfeirance between the piston and the valves. However I'm still little gun shy to crank them both up. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Posted on: 4/16/2011 4:26 PM by Author "guitardude" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10466748

ASP 108 - Muffler - What will fit
A buddy of mine gave me an ASP 108 that I'm thinking of putting in a GP Venus II. However, I don't have a muffler for the engine and I was wondering if a Magnum or OS or other brands of mufflers would fit this motor. I know that I could get a Bisson or Slimline, but not real fond of using them for this type of plane. I could opt for a tuned pipe and header though I'm not sure I wan't to fork out that much cash. Any informaiton is greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Posted on: 3/26/2011 7:39 AM by Author "guitardude" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10423720

RE: Looking for Flight Stand
Hi Jack, Thanks for taking the time to look at our stands, and the suggestions. Right now we're testing the water with this stand, but if we have enough interest we'll definitely make it suitable for use without a table to use in the field. The main focus was to design and build a better work stand other than one that ONLY accomodates a fuselage and also eliminate bending over your work table. If you'd like to discuss us making you a custom stand shoot me a PM and we can discuss it. Thanks again, if I find a swimsuit model we'll update the pics', but I'm concerned that the swimsuit model may take away focusing on the stand.....LOL. David
Posted on: 3/22/2011 10:14 AM by Author "guitardude" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10415797

RE: Looking for Flight Stand
We just introduced an Aircraft Work Stand at the Swap Meet in Perry GA a couple of weeks ago, I'm not sure if its what you're looking for but I've posted a linke below that has pictures (at the bottom of the post) of the stand. I do have to admit that once I made this I really use it EVERYTIME I work on a plane. It will hold both Wing and Fuse' of an aircraft with a +70" wing. It also doubles as a transport stand, the other day I got three fuselages in it and stuck it in the back of my SUV. Its the ONLY stand that I've seen made to work with both your fuselage and Wing as it has tilting arms. Also, we have been toying with the idea of making an optional table/leg extensions so it would double as a field stand. If you're interested let me know as I'm currently not set up for an online or PayPal account yet and we can discuss payment details. Any comments or constructive critisism are also welcome. Once we get some additional pictures and maybe a video it will be placed in the "Buying" adds section of RC Universe. Let me knowwhat you think you'd like to have one. Thanks, and here the link; [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_10303477/tm.htm]Aircraft Work Stand[/link] David
Posted on: 3/22/2011 6:32 AM by Author "guitardude" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10415436

RC Hobby Shops - Peoria Illinois - where are they?
I come to Peoria Illiniois one or two times a year and usually bring an RC plane project to work on while I'm up here. However I can't seem to find any Hobby Shops that carry RC airplanes, parts or support gear. Right now I need some push rods to install in my current project. Any help finding a RC Hobby Shop around the Peoria area would be greatly apprecited. Thanks!
Posted on: 3/11/2011 8:22 AM by Author "guitardude" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10393180

RE: GAMA Swap meet Perry GA
I'll be coming down with a buddy of mine, we'll have some cash to spend and we've also just produced an RC Aircraft Work Stand and will be debuting and selling at the show. I built a prototype a while back and had such interest in the stand from fellow RCers that I decided to manufacture the kit out of my shop to see if there's any interest in it. I have a post listed here with pictures of the stand. We should have about 50 kits at the show on hand, if we run out we'll be taking orders or we can E-mail you when they're in stock if we sell out. Hope its a great turnout for everyone, I'm forturnate to live in GA so the drive is only about 2 hours. [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_10303477/tm.htm] RC Aircraft Work Stand[/link]
Posted on: 2/27/2011 3:59 PM by Author "guitardude" in the forum "Events, Shows and Fun Fly's - Airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10368153

Perry Swap Meet - Work Stand Prototype - Pics attached
Hello everyone, I'm in the process of prototyping an RC Aircraft Work Stand/Station, and I have been thinking of using the Perry Swap Meet for a test bed to see what kind of interest fellow RC Aircraft pilots/builders would have in purchasing the product. And to tell me what they "do" and "don't" like about it. It will also help in determining whether or not my pricing is in line. Though I haven't seen anything out there like this, but that's not saying someone has something similar. To give you a little teaser on the prototype, it will hold both the fuselage and wing of most model aircraft up to about a 50cc size plane, but it's so adjustable that you can actually place something as small as a Radical RC Micro Stick (17" wing span) in the stand. The REAL selling point is that once the wing or fuselage or both are in the stand, you can tilt it down at an angle so it makes it easier to access the intside of your fuselage to work in, and the other REALLY big plus is that when mounting single or multiple servos in your wings, you won't be bent over your work bench trying to put the servos in as again you can tilt the wing toward you for easier access. Anyway I was wondering if anyone has an idea of how many attendees there are during the course of the Swap Meet? I'm trying to determine how many "Work Stands/Stations" I would need to kit up for the swap meet, so having an idea of the number of attendees would definitely help. I took the "prototype" to my buddies airfield last weekend and had several people tell me if I do make it in a kit they would like to purchase one. So my first thoughts were to make 48 "Work Stands/Stations" (they are laser cut in quantities of 6 units), but now I think it might be wise to kit up more of the units for the Perry Swap Meet. This is my first try at prototyping, manufacturing and marketing something like this, so any information would be greatly appreciated. And since I'm one of many of the unemployed in Telecommunications, the cash flow might help out. Thanks, David
Posted on: 2/27/2011 3:35 PM by Author "guitardude" in the forum "Events, Shows and Fun Fly's - Airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10303477

RE: Perry Swap Meet - Work Stand Prototype - Pics attached
Hello every one, We got about 50 kits completed and ready to go for the Perry Swap Meet, and probably a table in the Heritage Hall Building. I've uploaded some pictures of the stand. Note that the top horizontal arm where the aircraft will sit also tilts and the "L" shaped Clamps can be moved to either side of the arms for a variety of aircraft sizes and positions to work on your aircraft. In addition, you can adjust the width of the stand for shorter/smaller aircraft. I can actually get a "Radical RC Micro Low Stick" in my stand to work on it. ALSO, the reasons the arms are 24" long is so you can place your wings into the stand, tilt the arms and be able to access the servos in the wing easier. In addition, I've gotten up to a 120 size 70" wing span fuselage and wing in the stand so you can plug up all your servos and not have to put the aircraft together to set up your linkages and throws. Please note that this IS a kit and you'll need to build it but ALL the parts and ALL the hardware are included in the kit including the foam padding. Selling price is probably going to be $65 to $75 at the Perry Meet with TAX included. If you have any suggestions that you think might make the work stand better I'd really like to hear them. Thanks!
Posted on: 2/27/2011 8:35 AM by Author "guitardude" in the forum "Events, Shows and Fun Fly's - Airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10367114

Micro Brushless Motor
I purchase a brushless motor at the Perry Swap meet for a Radical RC Mini Low Stick. The motor I believe is a Hextronik 1811 brushless outrunner. Just as I got everything set up and ballanced on the plane the motor started acting odd. To make a long story short, two of the wires broke off the coils and as far as I can tell are nearly impossible to solder back on. Unfortunately I don't remember which vendor I purchased it from otherwise I would have sent it back. Therefore, does anyone know a vendor in the "States" where I could get a replacement motor. For some odd reason Hobby Kings web site won't take my CC though it did last time.....don't get it. [image]http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/catalog/D1400.jpg[/image] Here's what the motor looks like: [link=http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/catalog/D1400.jpg]Micro Brushless Motor[/link]
Posted on: 11/23/2009 9:19 AM by Author "guitardude" in the forum "Brushed/Brushless motors, speed controls, gear drives"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9274155