RE: Tamiya Monster Beetle, Blackfoot and Mud Blaster resto and picture thread
[quote]ORIGINAL: CharFace I'm not quite sure what it is now<img src=''http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/js/fckeditor/editor/images/smiley/msn/shades_smile.gif'' alt='''' /> [/quote] Hmmm.... cool truck. Maybe it's about time I put together my Hot trick chassis for the Monster beetle/blackfoot . It's still in it's original Hot Trick shipping box unassembled and complete with instructions.
Posted on: 10/17/2009 1:41 PM by Author "gulfstreamI" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9180531

RE: thorp diff on a monster beetle
Check the following using a magnifying glass: 1) worn out thread on the right side drive cup. 2) Worn out thread on the 1/8" allen screw . 3) missing flat washer/spacer 4) worn out 1/32 ball bearings. If you have that "exploded view" parts guide that came with the Thorp differntial kit, you can easily find what's missing.
Posted on: 7/21/2009 10:38 PM by Author "gulfstreamI" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8953454

RE: Tamiya Monster Beetle, Blackfoot and Mud Blaster resto and picture thread
Yup, That's EXACTLY what it is. *edited*..... done ....[:D]
Posted on: 6/29/2009 10:59 PM by Author "gulfstreamI" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8892357

RE: Tamiya Monster Beetle, Blackfoot and Mud Blaster resto and picture thread
[quote]ORIGINAL: urgeone nice lineup man!! You have a small army of upgraded MBs, all at your disposal! [u]I so wish that I can fix that rear axle it's so flimsy when coming down off a jump that it's limiting my driving[/u][&o] [/quote] Thanks man! [:)] The first M.B. I posted is the original one I owned since 1987 . The uprgades came in the summer of 1989 and those Thorp/Robinson Limited Slip Differntials (L.S.D.) really made the difference. Those hop-ups cost a lot back then. If there's anything good about this economic recession is the prices for these hop up parts are more affordable (even used) as compared to just a few years ago when they were way overpriced! About three months ago I bought two (2) used extra Thorp/Robinson L.S.D's assemblies to upgrade a Frog and a Blackfoot runner at fairly reasonable prices... *within the $70 price range per set* Your Thorp L.S.D. axels really could use that CRP "inner trailing arm guide" to eliminate that problem with your transmission. The photos below should give you an idea what that CRP part looks like. If you can't find one on "the bay".... you can make a home-made version yourself. That's what I did for my runner Blackfoot and M.B's back then.
Posted on: 6/29/2009 10:03 AM by Author "gulfstreamI" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8890462

RE: Tamiya Monster Beetle, Blackfoot and Mud Blaster resto and picture thread
The last of the pack.... my "beater/runner" Monster beetle. Equipped with most of the upgrade parts found in my three other M.B's for running reliablility plus a few more... The front suspension front axel steering assembly was taked from a Tamiya Bush devil MT. Since the stock M.B's foglight mounting was so flimsy, this foglight assembly was mounted diectly to the front shock tower platform using leftover servo posts from my other Tamiya kits. No more broken foglights (even after repeated 360 degee rollovers)
Posted on: 6/28/2009 5:51 PM by Author "gulfstreamI" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8888765

RE: Tamiya Monster Beetle, Blackfoot and Mud Blaster resto and picture thread
Just cleaned up the M.B. runners .....here's my "Winter Beater" Tamiya Monster Beetle (Sand Scorcher) with vintage hop ups. It took me three years to find the parts to put this together for this specific use. The color theme for this M.B is Blue, Yellow and Black. I've used this Monster buggy for the last two (2) winters since it was built with practically no mechanical breakdowns. It has an original blue molded chassis (not painted) that was from a junked Tamiya Bush Devil MT that I got off" the bay" The Chrome rims are original replica rims made by Imex. It has the reliable Robinson adjustable drive system (same as Thorp) and CRP parts to reinforce the critical areas that usually crack under stress. Since I got tired breaking those standerd servo gears, this one has a heavv duty high torque servo ( clear servo plastic casing, see the metal gears) An oldschool Tekin ESC (matched with a high torque motor for 4wd's) along with the blue Parma "anti-bump steer" front suspension axels completes the set up for this vintage runner.
Posted on: 6/28/2009 5:23 PM by Author "gulfstreamI" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8888660

RE: Tamiya Monster Beetle, Blackfoot and Mud Blaster resto and picture thread
My Tamiya Moster Beetle (Version #2) with 1980's vintage Hop up's. This one uses the Thorp dog bone type differential upgrade. The motor is the Tamiya Technigold RZ540VZ (16 turn single) and the heatsink is an orginal heatsink designed by Tamiya. The front suspension has adjustable clamp (to adjust sping tension). This Monster Beetle has far fewer upgrades as you can see from the photos.
Posted on: 6/28/2009 1:43 PM by Author "gulfstreamI" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8888304

RE: Tamiya Monster Beetle, Blackfoot and Mud Blaster resto and picture thread
Here's my Tamiya Monster Beetle (version#1) with late 80's to early 90's oldschool hop up's. This is my display/reference model. Not exactly 100% show quality but good enough for me. I have two (2) beater/runnner versions with period upgrades . I'll be posting them later as soon as I get thru cleaning them.
Posted on: 6/28/2009 10:31 AM by Author "gulfstreamI" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8887881

RE: Tamiya Monster Beetle, Blackfoot and Mud Blaster resto and picture thread
[quote]ORIGINAL: urgeone heres mine had her since I was 11...damn that's 17 years!!! [IMG]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a145/urgeone/SSL10710.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a145/urgeone/SSL10711-1.jpg[/IMG] Just got back from the front of my house after running her hard...she has 8 cell 5000 nimh coupled with a 610rv esc...she got REAL warm quickly, and i busted the axle comming off a hard jump...but I was real impressed with her speed and rugged agility taking high speed turns, made me feel all tingly inside...[u][b]I need to find a way to stiffen the rear amrs a bit so the axles don't come undone like this...this happened TWICE tonight lol[/u][/b] [/quote] Now that's a neat oldskool Tamiya M.B, complete with correct period hop ups. [sm=thumbup.gif] On the overheating issue: have you tried using the stock 10 T pinion gear with this set up? I have a similar set up in my M.B. with the exact same Thorp/Robinson tranny upgrade. It runs well with minor ESC and motor heat build up using the stock 10 Teeth pinon and a high tourque 27Turn ROAR class motor. Your motor could use one of those wrap around motor heatsinks by Traxxas to maximize the heat transfer from the motor can and extend the run times. On the axels comming off issue: Is your tranny equipped with the CRP "inner" trailing arm guide? I'm using one of those and never had an issue with the drive axels comming off after hard cornering and hard jumps.
Posted on: 6/28/2009 7:21 AM by Author "gulfstreamI" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8887593

RE: Tamiya Monster Beetle, Blackfoot and Mud Blaster resto and picture thread
[quote]ORIGINAL: Dante77 Ok, here are the pics. As you can see, the shaft has a pretty steep angle. If you look closely on the second pic, you can see there are some marks on the shaft from the shaft touching the outdrive. I guess thats what causes the binding. Maybe the MB shocks are longer than the Frogs.[u] I've heared that the Frog dogbones are prone to fall out from time to time. [/u] I think this will happen more often on the MB, since the angle seems to be steeper. [/quote] That's a common problem with the old hex drive found on the Frog, M.B. & Black Foot transmissions. There is a 2mm slop on the outdrive. Have you tried using the more sturdier Thorp/ Robinson drive system designed for these 80's tamiya Monster trucks?
Posted on: 6/27/2009 11:02 PM by Author "gulfstreamI" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8886965

RE: RARE FUTABA BOAT!!!!!!HELP
[quote]ORIGINAL: WALL22 yes it is called the super candy that is what it is....it is baout 20-25 inches long. I have put some money into it to updated the moter and the throttle. It hauls but i would like to kow what a boat like this price does? New it cost 270 dollars whe it was bought in 1991. It has seen water may 2 times since i have had it. I have owned this boat since 1996. But just now trying to find some info on this thing and what it could be worth. [/quote] I've seen one of those Futaba Candy boats. They are a cross between the Kyosho Viper R and the old Tower Hobbies Turbo vee-1. It's a single submerged prop direct drive design, and basically a beginner's boat just like the Kyosho Viper-R.
Posted on: 5/16/2008 9:31 PM by Author "gulfstreamI" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7505299

RE: Im going to try another shot at subs need some info.
[quote]ORIGINAL: subsinker Guys, 27Mhz will work but bear in mind that band is subject to interference. [/quote] The 27 Mhz ''AM'' is subject to a lot of interference. The 27 mhz ''FM'' however has far less interference problems.
Posted on: 4/15/2008 5:26 PM by Author "gulfstreamI" in the forum "RC Submarines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7378166

RE: Any place sell parts for older boats?
There are two (2) versions of the Kyosho Viper. The earlier version has the 540 motor direclty clamped on the hul land held by an aluminum clamp. The more modern version is the Viper "R" and has a provision for water cooling. Which one is your particular model?
Posted on: 4/6/2008 10:02 PM by Author "gulfstreamI" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7343638

RE: Lets see your Recovery boats
This is my recovery boat. Either I push the boat back to shore using the front end or the blast from the props to blow the disabled boat back to shore.
Posted on: 4/5/2008 12:00 AM by Author "gulfstreamI" in the forum "RC Boats General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7335256

RE: Any place sell parts for older boats?
Check ebay.com periodically. That particular model shows up for sale two or three times a month.
Posted on: 4/4/2008 11:43 PM by Author "gulfstreamI" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7335189

RE: nikko seawolf
[quote]ORIGINAL: Polish Navy The submerge motor on my Sea Wolf won't stop running so I am guessing that it is a adjustment problem on the circuit board. Can someone explain how to get to it? [/quote] You can try adjusting the "trim pot" at the transmitter circuit board. There's only one (1) there and you won't miss it. Over time these need to be tuned as the sensitvity of the three (3) electric motors ... dive, steering & propulsion motors start to wear down.
Posted on: 3/17/2008 11:01 PM by Author "gulfstreamI" in the forum "RC Submarines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7241671

RE: nikko seawolf
The Nikko Seawolf = Nikko Ocean Explorer. Same sub, different production date, different color. Only change in the Seawolf is the updated electronics on the receiver board. Pls refer to page 1 of this thread. Disassembly is a pretty straightforward task. Just refer to the pics.
Posted on: 3/17/2008 10:52 PM by Author "gulfstreamI" in the forum "RC Submarines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7241624

RE: To repair, or to start a new boat?
I've got one of those boats. The bottom hull cracks when you have a motor that's not properly secured at the motor mount. A ESC with a high amp capacity & eight clls canmake that boat move pretty fast even with the stock 1.3 plastic red propeller.
Posted on: 1/2/2008 8:46 AM by Author "gulfstreamI" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6840988

RE: name this boat
Indeed. What a plane looks like loosing it's wings after a hard landing...LOL..[:D] I wonder how that contraption steers?
Posted on: 12/5/2007 12:36 AM by Author "gulfstreamI" in the forum "RC Airboats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6715509

RE: My sub stopped
Sabotage? (dead batteries) Crew Mutiny? (Faulty circuit) [:D]
Posted on: 10/7/2007 3:51 PM by Author "gulfstreamI" in the forum "RC Submarines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6460857

RE: nikko seawolf
[quote]ORIGINAL: jjp735i I need to know if [u][b]the 4 screws that hold the black peice in for the dive prop will let water into the electronics. [/u][/b]I just got my sub back from nikko and they fixed it, I use this term loosely, they just needed to give me the right TX since they sent me the wrong one in the first place and said I needed to send the whole sub in to get it fixed. It looks as if they torn the sub down and put it back together.[u][b] I found small cracks around the 4 screws on the bottom of the sub that hold part of the dive assembly and only one of the screws gets tight. [/u] [/b]They put some kind of sealant all around them, I think to get them to hold. I'm going to call them Monday and insist they replace the bottom Hull, which is mostly the whole sub. Thanks, jjp [/quote] That's the dive motor propulsion seal. If the screw mounts in that area is compromised, no amount of sealant will keep the water out when you take that sub down for a dive. You can't glue that area as you will have to occasionally service the two electric motors for re-oiling. Use the associated motor bearing lube available at your L.H.S. I'd say your sub's hull has to be replaced. I have a Nikko Ocean Explorer with a damaged hull. It's no longer capable of making dives due to damage similar to what you described. It's currently a surface vessel (just like an ordinary boat).
Posted on: 10/3/2007 10:53 AM by Author "gulfstreamI" in the forum "RC Submarines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6439794

RE: nikko seawolf
How's your skill level at dismantling r/c stuff? You have to get at the circuit board located within the sub. I've had this problem before with the newer Nikko Seawolf (black) . It took the sub apart to make adjustments to the trim pots. There are three (3) of these located on the circuit board. One is for the Dive motor , another for the steering (left & right) and the last for forward & reverse of the propusion motor. You have to use a fine flat screwdriver. A plastic or one with a insulated handle is preferable. You have to fine tune or syncronize the sensitivity/response for the proper proprtional output to the three motors these trim pots control.
Posted on: 9/10/2007 10:42 PM by Author "gulfstreamI" in the forum "RC Submarines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6352620

RE: Anyone know what make my new boat is
It's looks like this old boat I have. Mine is called the Playtron Candy boat. Based on a real boat called the Glastron Schimatar. My boat has about the same dimensions & is powered by the old tech brushed motor & ESC combo. It's fast for it's age (released in 1986).It has a removable rear hatch and a shallow angle submerged type prop.
Posted on: 8/16/2007 10:54 PM by Author "gulfstreamI" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6248271

RE: Battery clips
Have you tried using those Li-Po battey packs instead of cheap AA Ni-Mh cells? Builiding an r/c submarine with cheap parts often ends in failure. Kinda reminds me of the Russians buiding their real subs & cutting corners.... [:D]
Posted on: 8/2/2007 10:14 PM by Author "gulfstreamI" in the forum "RC Submarines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6189853

RE: nikko Sea star sub
You will need a 3 channel radio (27 Mhz) transmitter to match the receiver on board the sub. The Nikko sea star uses the old circuit board from the 80's. These can also be found on the old Nikko Ocean Explorer, Atlantis. The Nikko seawolf (Black hull) uses a modern circuit board with integrated circuits (I.C.)
Posted on: 7/30/2007 8:20 AM by Author "gulfstreamI" in the forum "RC Submarines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6173447

RE: Electric airboat
Why not try the conventional boat hull and mount a propeller on top.? Like this one... Pusher type E.P. airboat with a 550 motor.
Posted on: 6/27/2007 12:11 AM by Author "gulfstreamI" in the forum "RC Airboats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6039725

RE: where to get a tiny ballast pump and solenoid valve?
Aquarium supplies sell D.C. powered pumps as a "back up" when A.C powered pumps are inoperative during power failures. They operate using size D or C batteries on 3 or 6 volts. Some manufacturers sell dual pump versions. One way "check valves" are also available there. Check your local pets stores for availability. These gizzmos have been around since the 1990's.
Posted on: 6/4/2007 1:15 AM by Author "gulfstreamI" in the forum "RC Submarines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5941623

RE: What about this submarine?
I had one of those subs. It's not worth your money. It has an inherent design flaw at the propeller motor seals. Water will collect in those motors and after about 4 dives they will just seize from rust. Dive depth is also limited (about 3 ft). You are better off looking for those Nikko Explorer, Sea wolf or Atlantis subs that show up for sale at "the bay".They will last longer and have very little issues with leaking in the sub's hull.
Posted on: 6/4/2007 1:04 AM by Author "gulfstreamI" in the forum "RC Submarines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5941597

RE: jet villain IV
Your boat crash pic (third one) reminds me of the boat crash scene in the movie: Face off. Your thread has inspired me to take my mothballed Traxxas Villain IV and refurbish it with new electronics. I haven't run that boat in 2 years since I got it used from "the bay". I'll try posting pics on this thread as soon as I get her up & running.
Posted on: 6/4/2007 12:54 AM by Author "gulfstreamI" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5941575

RE: Academy Supreme F1 Tunnel Hull. modifications?
This Tunnel hull boat has basically the same problems as the Kyosho wave Master. 1) Very slow stock 550 class motor. 2) Flex shaft breaks when using hi power motors such as the Astroflight 05 Hydro motor.
Posted on: 5/30/2007 11:33 PM by Author "gulfstreamI" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5924189