RE: What do you have your conversion in???
Yes there are some small 4 strokes for edge trimmers they have been converted but they are still heavy. My brother has a os 160 4 stroke twin converted to spark and runing on naptha and 10% glow fuel. I have converted a 42cc pulan chansaw engine not an eazy conversion, also have converted a 25cc homelite trimmer and a ryobi 28cc. i am going to convert a 31cc for a giant stick I will build in the winter. i guess if you are looking for a 4 stroke sound but you won't find anything over a 30cc, not until they convert chainsaws. If you are interested this is my video of a ultraspadstick with a 28cc ryobi converted i made allmost everything my self from my broken edge trimmer. Most of the money was spent from wacker engines for parts for the conversion hear is the link. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W1dHMmcR92o enjoy
Posted on: 7/4/2010 5:16 PM by Author "hewismayer" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9844495

RE: What do you have your conversion in???
B&S are 4 stroke lawn mower engines they are too heavy for a rc plane 40 cc look for a chain saw engine or better yet crrc engines from China you can pick one up for 200 $ you will spend that on a converting a chain saw engine
Posted on: 7/4/2010 2:55 PM by Author "hewismayer" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9844284

RE: BUSA 1/3 Sopwith PUP UK
Thanks foodstick it looks like a good product. I will have to check it out and I can get it about a 2 hour drive away. Busa is a 10 hour drive and I might get the rubber glove at the border. Maybe in the summer on a camping trip there is a lot of beautiful country between hear and there. I would like to try a fabric and paint or dope. There was a guy who did a Jenny 1/3 scale in Toledo. What a beautiful plane koverite and dope stitching he started it in October and finished it for April. Foodstick thanks for the advice on the build so far. How is your plane coming any one interested in the wheels I got them in Toledo for $75 and could have had them for $69 from the local hobby store! Oh well live and learn. According to Busa spook wheels fall apart Dubro is the way to go and suspension is a big plus on this plane the week spot is the fuse between the lower wing when it separates the plane is done he says you can put a strap to hold it together. Weight is not a problem with this plane they say it flies well at 40 lbs but lighter is better I always say.
Posted on: 4/23/2010 9:13 PM by Author "hewismayer" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9684051

RE: BUSA 1/3 Sopwith PUP UK
Hay guys thanks for getting back to me on your input. You are right on the twin; I have heard a lot of people using the 80 twin on the pup if you can afford it. I think that’s why a lot of guys use the G62. People who use the Toni Clark reduction system swear by it again if you can afford it. It’s the way I would like to have gone but I got the DLE at a good price. Also there is a new engine the MT 70 twin about 6 hp it is around the mid $ 400 range I think if I was still looking it would be the route I would go with and a big prop. I am still looking for coverite. One guy was going to order it but I haven’t heard from him yet and if I go to solertex then I will have to go to Balsa USA because no one sells it that cheep around here. I have never used dope but my brother has a lot of experience with it. can you still do stitching with solertex?
Posted on: 4/22/2010 11:35 PM by Author "hewismayer" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9682037

RE: BUSA 1/3 Sopwith PUP UK
Sorry guys my name is Hector. I should have introduced my self; I am also building a pup that was my pup I posted. I messed up on the spars I didn’t receive the up date instructions on the spar up date from Balsa USA. I just came back from Toledo and talked to one of the designers of the pup and the reason the hard wood spar on the lower wing is too absorb the shock of a hard landing. He says the way I built it is okay. I also asked him about modifications to the tail in any way and he said the real plane was that way. But it’s more weight on the tail and that’s more weight on the nose and that’s a heaver plane. I asked him about the engine and he said the DLE 55 is just about right he said more power will rip the plane apart. He also told me to get a 26x6 prop that I got at the show. He says I should cover it with solertex I thought of using coverite and dope. What do you guys think?
Posted on: 4/21/2010 10:34 PM by Author "hewismayer" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9679449

RE: BUSA 1/3 Sopwith PUP UK
sorry i forgot how to post an image so here are some shots
Posted on: 3/13/2010 12:42 PM by Author "hewismayer" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9578573

RE: BUSA 1/3 Sopwith PUP UK
Great discussion form and great pictures, the landing gear was awesome. I am in the process of completing the frame of my pup. I am still undetermined which engine to use my brother says I can have his g38 I have a 42cc poulan converted chain saw engine and I have a new DLE 55. I like the idea of the g38 with the Toni Clark reduction system. I think with the engines I have the dle55 is the best choice. Also in the build I found the top wing uses a balsa spar and the bottom uses a bass wood spar. It was too late for me because I went by the plans that show a front basswood spar, but there isn’t enough bass wood for the job. So I had to piece together the spar for the top centre wing. I wish there was written instruction about this change in plans if there was I didn’t see any. Also I would like to know the proper way to cover the 1/32 plywood down by the top of the wing, also I would like to know what the dawn patrol is all about. Thanks for any in put [image]file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Hector/My%20Documents/My%20Pictures/Airplanes/fuse%20%20build/100_1035.jpg[/image]
Posted on: 3/13/2010 11:51 AM by Author "hewismayer" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9578430

RE: 1/3 scale sopwith pup
I bought the kit in Toledo last spring. It started with me converting my old chainsaw engine, and I was looking for a plane to put it in. when I saw these planes fly on you tube I was sold on just the size of these planes. But then I found my Poulan was on the bottom of the scale for engines on this plane. The cowl is 14� and a 24 “prop only sticks out 5�. But some one was telling me that only the last 2� is what makes the thrust. Then I found out most guys use the G62, and it works well. But after seeing the plane fly with the Toni Clark reduction system, I thought I could make one for the Poulan but it’s too much trouble. That’s when I figured I would go to the G62 but its $600 from the local hobby shop then I found out about the MT62 and the price is right and I found out they are good engines. I will let you know. I have an Astro Hog and a Twist for sale in the local hobby shop, and keep trying on EBay. It’s the seller he’s not happy with the price. And $290 is a good price for the MT 62. Thank you
Posted on: 11/22/2009 11:52 PM by Author "hewismayer" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9273612

RE: 1/3 scale sopwith pup
Thank you for getting back to me so soon. I was going to buy an engine from china last weekend, called an SV 90; I haven’t heard any good things about these engines. The last thing you want in the air is a bum engine. Any one I have talked to about the MT say they are good engines. I was sold on that last weekend, when I found out MT stopped making them. That’s when I went to the DLE because my friends who own them love them. But now I was wondering if I made the right choice. The DLE is light at 3.5lbs; it is more suited for a 88� edge or cap. I think the new MT 80 would be great for this plane or the DLE 111 but I just started a job 5 months ago, for almost half of what I used to get in pay. I am selling planes to finance this project, so maybe I should be happy with what I have, and just get on with the build. The MT 62 you have, are they new, and how much are you asking? Again thank you for the input.
Posted on: 11/22/2009 8:52 PM by Author "hewismayer" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9273194

RE: 1/3 scale sopwith pup
Do you think it would be ok to use the DLE 55, and add wt to the nose? Balsa USA says I could use my 42cc Poulan, just to use a big prop, like a 24x6 or bigger. But everyone says to use a big engine like the g62. I tried to get a MT 62 but they stopped making them. I might be able to get one on eBay. But it’s about the same as the DLE. The 100 cc my friend wants to sell me is a single cylinder, with a spring start decompression valve and a magneto. I think he wants $250 for it. Does any one have this plane and think the DLE is enough or should I go bigger.
Posted on: 11/22/2009 5:48 PM by Author "hewismayer" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9272777

1/3 scale sopwith pup
I am in the process of building a 1/3 scale pup, and most of the people use the G62. Most of the people in Europe ate using the g38 with a Toni Clark reduction system. I have a G38 and a Poulan converted chainsaw engine 42cc. MT makes a 62 cc with electronic advance ignition. I also have a DLE 55 that can turn a 24x8 prop at around 7000 rpm that can generate 5.5 hp and develops 14 kg of thrust at 1000 ft. That’s almost enough power to hover the pup. My friend also wants to sell me a 100 cc not sure what it is but it has a magneto. So it’s heavy he says it runs great, but they all say that when they want to sell it. The Toni Clark reduction system is over $500 to Canada and $100 for the 32x18 prop. But I really like the way they fly so scale like. I under stand in this plane you need about 7 lbs to balance the plane. With the DLE I would need 3lbs more and the prop is a little small, but should be enough power to fly it well. The 100 could turn a 28� prop and would look more scale like, there would be more than enough wt to balance, and I might have to add wt to the tail. Right now money is an issue because I just started a job after being unemployed for a year and a half. any input woud be helpfull. thanks
Posted on: 11/22/2009 12:19 PM by Author "hewismayer" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9272138

RE: MT80 80cc Single cylinder powerhouse!!!
With the G62 they use a 24x6 or 24x8 prop. Toni Clark they use a G38 with a 2.8 to 1 reduction system, and a 32x18 prop at 3000 rpm, the plane flys very scale. I need a 7lb engine that can turn a big prop. Thanks for you time in helping me.
Posted on: 10/4/2009 9:46 PM by Author "hewismayer" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9146856

RE: SV 90 Kick Back
i am thinking of one of these engines too. are they any good? i need the weight so weight is a good thing. its for a 1/3 scale sopwith pup.
Posted on: 10/4/2009 9:18 PM by Author "hewismayer" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9146765

RE: MT80 80cc Single cylinder powerhouse!!!
I am building a 1/3 scale sop with pup, form bulsa USA. At first I was going to use a 42cc Poulan converted chain saw engine. After a few discussions and inquiries later, I found out that I need an engine that can turn a big prop, to get around a 14� cowl. Then I was going to build a reduction system like Toni Clark. But after thinking about it a while I decided to go with the Zenoah G 62 like most of the guys. In this plane you need 7lbs to balance it. I think the G62 is 6lbs, the MT 62 is a lot cheaper then the G62, but for the same price, I can have the MT 80. Then I can turn a 27� prop, and lots of power. Not that I need it. My question is how reliable are these engines? And are they easy to start? Should I go with the 62 or the 80? The Mt 62 is more powerful then the G62. Also what about the SV 90, it’s cheaper yet. It’s heavy but that’s good thing. Any input would be appreciated.
Posted on: 10/4/2009 9:03 PM by Author "hewismayer" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9146729

RE: is there any incedence on a big stick
Well got a chance to go to the field yesterday, and it was soggy and wet. I got a soaker doing a range check. I also had a bad glow plug. Once I got that fixed off she went, had to trim it out a little, but once I did that it flew great. The controls where touchy, but once I got used to it, it was ok. The FP 20, is an older version of the LA, and is not the most powerful thing, but it good enough for most stunts. When inverted, you just need a little down, hardly anything on the stick. No surprises when taking off or landing. In my books a good fun airplane and can be left assembled in the car, only way to make it better is make it electric. This is a picture of the plane next to my brothers 25 pulse.
Posted on: 4/30/2009 8:29 AM by Author "hewismayer" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8728362

RE: Astro-Hog Power
Anyone interested in the build on the 80% hog. I got my electric power at the show in Toledo from Red Hot Deals. I am using a 500watt out runner with a 60 amp speed controller I got for $60 the battery is from value hobby it’s a 11.1 volt 4000 ma lipo. The servos are standard servos I was going to use mini servos but regular where a lot cheaper. In the picture I have a gas prop. But I have exchanged it with an electric prop and got a couple of hundred rpm, and lost 2 oz to bring the final weight to 3lbs 12oz. It has a 57� wing and is 40� long. I used 5deg dihedral where I think I should have given it 8deg. I think I would build it with a cowl next time for looks. Other than that I won’t change a thing. The motor has plenty of power I can lunch the plane vertical. Now just waiting for the field to open up in a couple of weeks! and the real test on how it fly’s, and I will let you know.
Posted on: 4/17/2009 10:03 AM by Author "hewismayer" in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8689603

RE: Sig Astro Hog "Engine recomendations
I have two astro hogs. Both are sig kits. One built from the kit. The other I got at a swap meet. Both are great flyers. One has an 80 Magnum 4 stroke and the other a 65 satio. Lots of power on both planes! The one with the 80 is lighter then the on with the 65 but I fly both on half power or less most of the time I had a 60 2 stroke on one for a while but I had problems with it run inverted because one has a cowl. The 4 stroke has more vertical power but the two stroke had more speed fly’s better with a 4 stroke and sounds better too. Now I am building an 80% hog with electric power 25 size. Sig fuse with a Berkeley .wing. if you want I can let you guys know how the build goes? I shrunk the plans down on a photo copier. That was a mistake because when you tape the pieces together the plans tend to be off a little bit! And that affects your build.
Posted on: 3/15/2009 3:21 PM by Author "hewismayer" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8580663

RE: Astro-Hog Power
I have two astro hogs. Both are sig kits. One built from the kit. The other I got at a swap meet. Both are great flyers. One has an 80 Magnum 4 stroke and the other a 65 satio. Lots of power on both planes! The one with the 80 is lighter then the on with the 65 but I fly both on half power or less most of the time I had a 60 2 stroke on one for a while but I had problems with it run inverted because one has a cowl. The 4 stroke has more vertical power but the two stroke had more speed fly’s better with a 4 stroke and sounds better too. Now I am building an 80% hog with electric power 25 size. Sig fuse with a Berkeley .wing. if you want I can let you guys know how the build goes? I shrunk the plans down on a photo copier. That was a mistake because when you tape the pieces together the plans tend to be off a little bit! And that affects your build.
Posted on: 3/15/2009 8:47 AM by Author "hewismayer" in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8579675

RE: gas reduction gear system
I did some diging around. Gates is the only place to get them. Any belt bigger and you need bigger pullyes and thats more weight. I havent done anything yet because i need a hobby latne and I am out of funds. But when luck comes my way. I will let you know what i have done and how it works.
Posted on: 2/24/2009 3:11 PM by Author "hewismayer" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8513488

RE: is there any incedence on a big stick
Hay that’s great! The pictures you posted are great. I wish I researched this before I made the plane. My plans are almost identical but a smaller scale because my design is a 25 size. I made the plane from scrap balsa I had from old jobs. The covering I had kicking around the radio ext. the plane cost me 20 dollars to build so no great loss. If it not a good flyer. I don’t think 2deg is too much. I have trainers with 6 deg but they don’t fly upside down to well. Thank you for the info pictures and time.
Posted on: 2/22/2009 10:28 PM by Author "hewismayer" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8507417

RE: is there any incedence on a big stick
your friend will love the ultra spad stick. The 28cc or 31 cc fly great. But the more power the better they fly 38cc is a good size. I found plans for the kraft ugly stick and there is no incidence. but the big stick looks like there is some. I don't think a few deg will make much differnce. Untill you are inverted then you will need more down elevator i think any way. we are having a snow storm to day so i cant fly for a few days and glow engines don't like the cold. i found out.
Posted on: 2/21/2009 8:41 PM by Author "hewismayer" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8503083

RE: is there any incedence on a big stick
thanks. I built a ultra spad stick it has none but its a non Symmetrical air foil. This plane is thats why i gave it some. But i wasn't sure. I won't know until i go inverted. i guess i should have asked before i built it. again thanks.
Posted on: 2/20/2009 11:24 PM by Author "hewismayer" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8500315

is there any incedence on a big stick
Does any one know if a big or an ultra stick has any incidence on the main wing? I have designed a stick 25 size for an OS 20 I had kicking around. The plane has 52 in wing and is 45 in long weighs 2lb 15 oz. and has a wing loading of 13.8oz per square foot. I gave the wing 2 deg incidence. I guess I should have asked before I built it and I can’t fly it because it’s -12 out with a 30mph wind. On the pictures of an ultra stick it looks like it has some. Thanks.
Posted on: 2/20/2009 9:47 PM by Author "hewismayer" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8499993

RE: Clipped Wing Senior Telemaster?
Wow I understand these planes fly with a 40. I had a 40 Telemaster with a FP 20 and flew great. I am trying a mini Telemaster with 1bay out on each side no dihedral and 11/2 in ailerons. With a servo on each wing! Any one interested in the build. I will let you know how it goes.
Posted on: 1/20/2009 11:23 PM by Author "hewismayer" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8382496

RE: gas reduction gear system
The problem with a gear is! There needs an idler gear so the prop will turn in direction of the engine. Or the engine can be mounted backwards. Gears need to be meshed properly with shims, or they will destroy them self’s! if set up wrong even with little hp! i think v belt is the way to go.
Posted on: 1/7/2009 6:17 PM by Author "hewismayer" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8331304

RE: gas reduction gear system
I know it makes sense to use a timing belt! But all the successful reduction systems use a v belt! I hear that at an idle the belts get destroyed quickly. There must be a reason why they use a v belt instead. Maybe if the propeller hits grass or bugs in the air it could destroy the belt. But if that was the case what about the old sunbeam lawnmower! With the 2 blades cutting grass with timing belt’s, and an electric motor in between! I had one and it went threw belts at least once a year. Maybe that’s why lawn tractors use v belts and they last a long time. If any one knows why let me know. I still haven’t heard from gates belts I think I will have to email them. again
Posted on: 1/7/2009 9:55 AM by Author "hewismayer" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8329130

RE: gas reduction gear system
Thank you for the information. It is very helpful that will explain why Toni and the rest use a v belt. I am starting to re think the project. And use a 3/8 v belt and I can attach a hub from a starter. You know how they have a v belt grove. I was thinking of mounting in a block of aluminum two 30mm x10 sealed ball race bearings. With a 10mm bolt with a collar machined to 8mm attach a 3/8x4 ½� pulley, and a prop hub to the contraption. Attach the block to the motor mounts with a couple brackets supporting the block. Can adjust it by shimming the block! I guess it would be better to put it on paper! Either that or copy what Toni did. With two blocks mounted to the motor mount suspending a tube and two sealed ball race bearings. With an axel and a pulley on one end and a hub on the other! I will need to re design the motor mount. To take the power from the rear of the engine! what do you guys think?
Posted on: 12/30/2008 3:45 PM by Author "hewismayer" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8299292

RE: gas reduction gear system
That’s exactly what I need. I am going to check out the local scrap yard and see what junk they have. I have a timing belt from an old sunbeam lawnmower it will handle 3 hp. It is a little long where the gears will be about 4" apart. I would like them 3" apart. I know I will need a lathe to set the bearings in the tube, and a collar on the bolt or axel that attaches the cog and the hub so they won’t be pressed against the tube. I thought everything will be balanced if it was either store bought or turned on a lathe?
Posted on: 12/29/2008 11:03 AM by Author "hewismayer" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8294147

RE: Two homie 25 and a prop driver.
Why don’t you link the two engines with two timing gears? On one mount, and mount them together, and time them180 deg. You can have the hub to the bottom in the middle of the two engines. To run with or with out ignition! And link the timing belt to a timing pulley twice the size. It will be heavy 8 or 9 lbs. great for a 1/3 scale ww1 war bird. Bet you can turn a 32� or larger prop. If you build a twin you will need a boxer type, or you will need a seal between the cylinders. It will still be heavy. You will loose 2 to 3 lbs if you axe the ignition.
Posted on: 12/28/2008 12:20 AM by Author "hewismayer" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8289381

RE: gas reduction gear system
That's pritty cool!
Posted on: 12/27/2008 12:18 PM by Author "hewismayer" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8287203