RE: Diff oil in shocks instead of shock oil
Definitely, diff oils and shock oils have different viscosities (thickness). You'll probably end up with really stiff shocks and your car may handle really erratically.
Posted on: 7/19/2009 3:27 AM by Author "hhhs001" in the forum "RC 1/8th Scale Buggies"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8945396

RE: Engine stuffed?
Hey dude, 2 things to check: 1) Did you put the sleeve in the right way? There should be a notch on the crankcase and a slot in the sleeve, the notch and the gap in the sleeve should line up perfectly. [IMG]http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee238/hhhs001/sleeveinstallation.jpg[/IMG] 2) When you took the sleeve out, did the connecting rod fall off the crankshaft? To check, take the heat sink off, look down the sleeve, and turn the flywheel. Does the piston go up and down when you turn the flywheel? If not, the rod is not properly connected to the crankshaft. Whatever you do, do NOT start the engine if there is anything suspicious. Keep us posted!!
Posted on: 4/6/2009 9:29 AM by Author "hhhs001" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8653692

RE: Idle adjustment
Also remember adjusting the idle is not about trying to get the engine to idle at the lowest possible rpm. Just adjust it low enough so the clutch shoe's don't engage the bell at standstill.
Posted on: 3/17/2009 6:38 PM by Author "hhhs001" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8588374

RE: Hellfire or Savage?
Hey people, used to be a happy basher, was really impressed by how tough the savage was (other than the bevel gear driving the diff). Now focusing on racing, so the savage is a little neglected atm. Anywhos, what tib is referring to about downwards arm travel as you raise the car up is also referred to as "droop". It permits more wheel to ground contact as the chassis of the car tilts, such as during acceleration, hard cornering or going over bumps. Quite different to ride height, which is how much clearance the car has sitting still. The centre diff has the most marked effect during acceleration. The savage will always distribute 50% of the engines power to the front and 50% to the rear, which is optimal for acceleration in high grip situations this side of a torsen diff. However, it also allows the rear tires to lose grip due to too much power, meaning more tailing and drifting during acceleration. Awesome fun bashing, not so cool racing. Hope to get back into the savage after a while, but for now, I'm learning o so much more racing then I ever could just bashing. I highly recommend it to any basher, it'll improve your r/c knowledge especially if you're surrounded by the right people.
Posted on: 3/17/2009 5:23 AM by Author "hhhs001" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8586538

RE: How I can lower my X 4.6
[quote]ORIGINAL: hghflyrjd1 Just take the shock spacers off and move the shock possition to the higher one and that will drop it enough. I did it and didn't roll over [/quote] I agree with this suggestion. Completely free and simple. Highly recommend you try this one before you get all fancy with the new parts and taking apart of things. The shock spacers are the plastic clips at the top of the spring on each shock. Take them off, drive it, and see if you like it.
Posted on: 2/17/2009 3:58 AM by Author "hhhs001" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8485694

RE: New Radio
[quote]ORIGINAL: woodwore69 When you get the 2.4 ghz no crystals or sytisized FM radio like the airtronics mx-3 hfss do you need airtronic revcievers or will Spektrum dx2.0 recivers work [/quote] 2.4ghz rx's are generally quite specific with regards to what tx it will work with. Generally no, there's no cross-brand compatibility.
Posted on: 2/11/2009 5:35 PM by Author "hhhs001" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8466064

RE: HPI savage-bogging when giving it full throttlehelp
[quote]ORIGINAL: hondarider17 Which way do i want to turn my needle???? if im running it out in winter around +1C Do i want to make it run richer or lean it out??? [/quote] Depends how its running. If it sounds like its drowning, with heaps of smoke, its too rich, lean it out. If it sounds like it stutters/wants to cut out, its too lean, richen it. the video Budbud linked has a section in it that shows you what a lean engine sounds like. The reason a video's a better medium to explain tuning is that fact you can hear what a lean/rich engine sounds like. Rules of thumb: With the high speed needle (HSN) and low speed needle (LSN) Clockwise = leaner Anti-clockwise = richer With the idle needle: Clockwise = higher minimal carb opening Anti-clockwise = lower minimal carb opening Make sure you know which needle is which, before you make any adjustments. Sorry I have to ask, but have you run it in? What fuel / plug did you use and what procedure did you follow?
Posted on: 2/11/2009 5:32 PM by Author "hhhs001" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8466046

RE: Savage Rebuild
The plastic diff cups were a massive weak point in the older savages. You should consider getting some X diffs. There are chop shops on ebay that will sell the diff and the ez-access diff housing/bulkhead in one convenient package. Highly recommended. Makes inspecting diffs a 5 minute job with 6 screws. Just make sure the diffs are full alloy and not plastic. Make sure you get the X diffs with X outdrives as the XL outdrives are too large for your dogbones. btw, looks like your front right tire is mounted backwards :)
Posted on: 1/11/2009 10:54 PM by Author "hhhs001" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8347813

RE: Hump Packs
[quote]ORIGINAL: 46u Are you running the stock radio? I did not think the stock radio had EPA. Correct me if I am wrong as I do not do RTR. [/quote] The RTR radio "TF-3" has this dial thingy called the "Steering Dual Rate", which kinda mimics the way EPA works. You could adjust your steering servo end-points to some degree using that. Its on page 9 of the Savage X RTR manual.
Posted on: 1/11/2009 5:51 PM by Author "hhhs001" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8346550

RE: savage x 4.6 wont prime
I think HPI have only recommended using the roto start to prime because of the fact nitro is poisonous. Can you imagine the backlash a "toy" company will receive if they advised their users (potentially children) to put a fuel line in their mouth? Anywhos, if done correctly with a short fuel line, I don't see roto-priming as a big problem. I've seen people pull and pull on a pull-start, only to get the engine started on the 50th pull. I've also seen people stubbornly try to start an engine for 5 minutes with a roto-start, or lean on the starter box for what seems like an eternity. Surely that must be doing more damage. The way I use a roto-start is in 1 second bursts. 4 of those bursts are required to prime my engine. 3-4 more bursts starts my engine. 16 litres on the OWB and counting :) I used to mouth-prime, but got sick of the weird looks I get from passerby's wondering why I was "servicing" my truck. Also, some kids started to copy me, and I had to run off and tell them "BLOW!!!! NOT SUCK!!!!" But as Ubertib was saying, to each his own and have fun!!
Posted on: 1/11/2009 5:44 PM by Author "hhhs001" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8346520

RE: interchangeable parts
Here are some parts that are definitely NOT interchangeable: - Rear centre dogbone - Dogbones to the wheels - Wheel axles (where the wheel nut attaches) - Outdrives from the diff case (the cup thingies where the dogbones go)
Posted on: 1/11/2009 5:33 PM by Author "hhhs001" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8346483

RE: Clutch bell and bearing problem
So you have managed to get the bearing on the inside of the clutch bell out already? If so, get a pencil, or a pen, or anything that sized with a tapered end. Use the instrument of choice and try and push the stuck bearing out. If its stuck really tight you could try giving it a sharp tap. Be careful not to injure yourself!!
Posted on: 1/11/2009 5:30 PM by Author "hhhs001" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8346469

RE: Savage mind games (glow plug issue)
Kinda embarrassing, but I think I should put it out there so someone else doesn't make the same mistake. What actually happened was that I got some alloy shoes. The springs that came with the shoes wouldn't snap into the clutch nut groove. So I used the stock springs that came with the X composite shoes. Waaaaay too soft. So yeah, DON'T run alloy shoes with the stock X RTR springs. To make things more fun, one of the rods on the flywheel started working itself out. Eventually it made contact with the clutch bell, further increasing the low RPM drag problem. O, by the way, BLING racing shoes and springs are not a direct drop in. The groove on the nut needs to be higher, or the bottom half of the shoe needs to be thinner. I came to this conclusion because the BLING springs fit fine with XL shoes, but the XL springs didn't fit with the BLING shoes.
Posted on: 1/10/2009 6:06 AM by Author "hhhs001" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8341097

RE: Savage mind games (glow plug issue)
Hey guys, found the root cause of the problem. The glow plug was on its way out, true, but the reason for the little smoke at the start then a gradual pick up in RPM is..... *drum roll* ....... DA CLUTCH!! The springs were too soft and the clutch was engaging way too early for the truck to pull easy wheelies. Bought a XL clutch from an ebay chop shop, chucked it in and voila! I'm having fun again.
Posted on: 1/9/2009 9:34 PM by Author "hhhs001" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8340106

RE: Will the SC8 body fit the XL?
[quote]ORIGINAL: ThunderbirdJunkie 41 is still too rich for "Our" blood. Never spent over $30, tax (or shipping) included... That being said..."We" wonder if you can get the KMC wheels truck's decals separately... [/quote] My precioussssssssssss
Posted on: 1/7/2009 5:03 PM by Author "hhhs001" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8330959

RE: HPI Savage Flux RCU review thread
You lucky lucky person...... Hey, not saying you have to, but it would be awesome if could compile a list of shared and interchangeable parts between the Flux Savage and a standard length X Savage. If fact, post up the instruction manual and I'll do it for you. DO IT! ...please...
Posted on: 1/6/2009 2:09 AM by Author "hhhs001" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8324432

RE: Bad XL Diff bearings!
I started off thinking "I'll run it till something breaks, then I'll upgrade it." So far the only thing I've changed is the front bulkhead cos the bearing failure mangled up the bearing set. I "upgraded" to a GPM alloy housing, and so far its been more trouble than its worth. The rear diff still sits in the plastic bulkhead and I have not had any trouble with it (touch wood). Bent a dog bone, hammered it back into shape, back in there. Shim the diffs properly and you should be set. You may wanna inspect your clutch every 2 gallons. My springs were so worn that my clutch was semi engaged no matter how low I turned the idle. Thought my engine was wearing out, but after I replaced the shoes and springs I was flipping the little beasty at half throttle once more. However, you have the XL, which comes with alloy shoes and 1.0 mm springs, so it should last a little longer than my 4.6 X RTR composite shoes. O, and loctite the grub screws on the cups all along the center dogbones. Its amazing how annoying losing one of those things is. Get out there and have fun!!
Posted on: 1/4/2009 11:14 PM by Author "hhhs001" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8319872

RE: Bad XL Diff bearings!
Yeah I had a bearing fail on me in the first gallon as well. It was the front right bearing. Since replacing it with another HPI bearing (B032) I haven't had a problem in 3 gallons. Must have just been bad luck. With a failed bearing, you'll wanna check the bearing seat on the diff housing (not the diff cup, the housing which also forms the bulkhead). If the seat is damaged, you'll want to replace the the ez access bulkhead as well to ensure you have a proper mesh. [IMG]http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee238/hhhs001/savage_beaing_seat.jpg[/IMG] You'll also want to shim the differentials properly so that there is a good mesh and minimal play between the ring gear and the pinion gear. The shocks, and arms across all nitro Savages are interchangeable.
Posted on: 1/4/2009 10:17 PM by Author "hhhs001" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8319635

RE: HPI Savage Flux RCU review thread
What battery packs will you be using for the review? Also, will there be a speed gun involved? Finally, you lucky bugger, I am so jealous.
Posted on: 1/4/2009 10:10 PM by Author "hhhs001" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8319613

RE: Savage XL review
[quote]ORIGINAL: Jager 247 I don't Think it was hand picked or modded, some people here still know how to tune a motor. Not everyone calls them junk and throws them away or e-bays them. The K5.9 is built to bash and that's what it does. If it's top speed your after then yes this motor is not for you. [/quote] Don't start a flame. Budbud is a respected member on these forums who has gone out of his way to assist other members; from sending free parts to practically donating trucks to those who have had them stolen.
Posted on: 1/4/2009 5:27 PM by Author "hhhs001" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8318346

RE: Which sav? hpi newb
Yup [:)] It has thicker dogbones/diff-outdrives/axles, alloy shoes with racing clutch bell, steel spur, longer chassis so you can fit different pipe manifolds in, thicker motorplate (and TVP's as well?), hardened ring and pinion on the diffs. Go roller if you have a P3 .28 just sitting there. You make me green with envy sir. If $$ is a big issue, there are some really cheap X RTR rollers from chop shops out there. However, if you can afford it, hit up a XL roller. Piece one together if you have the patience. Manuals for all current Savages are downloadable from the HPI website, so you know exactly what you need.
Posted on: 1/3/2009 8:39 PM by Author "hhhs001" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8314913

RE: Rebuilt Savage X Or Purchase XL
Holy crap you bash your trucks!!!! If I were you I'd go back to stock plastic shocks. They cheap as chips, and more durable than you expect. A lot more durable. If you wanna avoid the K5.9 engine hit up ebay and piece together a new truck with XL parts and whatever you have on hand. Could work out a lot cheaper than buying a new XL RTR, especially as you already have the radio gear and servos. Tell me how you did that to your shocks??
Posted on: 1/3/2009 8:29 PM by Author "hhhs001" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8314876

RE: Which sav? hpi newb
Savage X 4.6 RTR comes with the F4.6 Savage X SS comes with the K4.6 Savage XL RTR comes with the K5.9 I own a Savage X 4.6 RTR and am perfectly happy with it. However if I could do it all again I would look for an Ebay chop shop, get a savage XL roller, put in my own electronics, engine and pipe. But thats just from size envy. If you already have your own radio gear look at the X SS or any X/XL rollers on ebay. There has been horror stories about the K5.9 blowing up under the gallon mark on every forum.
Posted on: 1/3/2009 8:21 PM by Author "hhhs001" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8314840

RE: Savage x VS Tmaxx .25
Increasing the number of teeth on the clutch bell or decreasing the amount of teeth on the spur will give rise to more top speed at the loss of torque. Decreasing the number of teeth on the clutch bell or increasing the amount of teeth on the spur will give rise to more torque at the loss of top speed. The T-Maxx will keep up speed wise and probably handle corners better. Many swear that the T-Maxx will break more often. Depends how hard you guys are bashing. If its just zipping around an open flat area than the T-Maxx will keep up no problems.
Posted on: 1/3/2009 8:13 PM by Author "hhhs001" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8314805

RE: Savage XL review
The HPI site states the XL comes with one SF-1 throttle/brake servo and one SF-5 steering servo, not two SF-5 servos as stated in the review specifications. The tuned pipe (part number 86138) is shared with the X SS, and was available long before the XL. The manifold is a little different though. Other than that, a nice and pretty write-up of the HPI Savage flagship. BTW, do you guys get to keep the toys you review?
Posted on: 1/3/2009 7:47 PM by Author "hhhs001" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8314696

RE: Brake shoe replacement for Savage 25.....
I would recommend the fibre glass brakes with metal pads. The one you linked tends to be more high maintainence, with the pads occassionally falling off as they're just stuck to the metal pads. Fibre glass brakes: [link=http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-SAVAGE-X-4-6-BRAKE-KIT_W0QQitemZ170290386152QQcmdZViewItemQQptZRadio_Control_Parts_Accessories?hash=item170290386152&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1205|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318|301%3A1|293%3A1|294%3A50]ebay link[/link] I'm pretty sure they'll fit on a Savage 25 transmission, but do wait till the veterens confirm before you shell out $$ for them.
Posted on: 1/3/2009 8:11 AM by Author "hhhs001" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8312564

RE: The wait is over... modded 5.9 video
Did you break another 3-speed? That's what, 5 3-speeds and counting? Hehehe, supertib should advertise his mods with a "Guaranteed to break your 3-speeds".
Posted on: 1/1/2009 6:43 PM by Author "hhhs001" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8306847

RE: 3 speed transmission settings question....
Here you go buddy: [IMG]http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee238/hhhs001/3-speed-setup.jpg[/IMG] Its from page 33 of the XL manual, which can be downloaded from the HPI website. Good luck! [:D]
Posted on: 1/1/2009 6:37 PM by Author "hhhs001" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8306820

RE: The wait is over... modded 5.9 video
[quote]ORIGINAL: BudBud That lot is where they long lead them to get the horses in the training mode and take the edge off of their nerves before going into the arena. [/quote] Hey, waddaya reckon will happen if you ran that truck at the same time the horses were "taking the edge off their nerves"?
Posted on: 1/1/2009 6:29 PM by Author "hhhs001" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8306788

RE: 3 speed transmission settings question....
Hm.... that really depends on your gearing and engine. Unfortunately you'll have to run the car and adjust accordingly. Different running conditions/surfaces may also require a different shift point.
Posted on: 1/1/2009 6:27 PM by Author "hhhs001" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8306774