RE: OMP Yak 65
Brian, A couple on installation comments on the YS 1.10. Be very careful with the installation into the provided wood rails. In my case they were not well glued into the structure and were shaken loose by this rather powerful motor. I replaced them with a 1/2" plywood U shaped plate that I epoxied into the nose of the plane. On top of that, I put a number of 3-4 thin glass layers on each side of the slab (see pictures). This has worked now for me for over a year without any issues. The standard tank of 350cc is in fact good for about 10 min., set your timer for no longer, this is a thirsty motor. Herb, J7
Posted on: 6/28/2009 6:58 PM by Author "hkilian" in the forum "OMP - Ohio Model Products Support Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8888914

RE: Saito stack so close to the fuse.....
I'm not Mike but the clearance should be plenty to keep your plane from coming down in flames. Have to use my infrared thermometer on my YS 1.10 exhaust but I doubt very much I'll see temps that would ignite the wood structure. Stick a piece of good aluminum tape ("real" duct tape) over the area that's close. Also, carve additional clearance space up to a quarter inch if you feel so inclined.
Posted on: 6/15/2009 6:13 PM by Author "hkilian" in the forum "OMP - Ohio Model Products Support Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8854498

Tetherite Landing Gear
The attached photo shows my Yak 65 sitting on the medium size gear that I bought after having to bend the original Aluminum gear back into shape too often. The plane weighs a smidgen over 8 pounds and bends the gear to a point that the wheels look definitely cock-eyed. This is purely an aesthetic problem since the gear flexes beautifully on landing and shows no sign of wear or damage. My question is has anyone epoxied a thin layer of carbon strip to the underside of the gear (tension-stressed) to reduce the flexing? This would be quite simple since the area is large and flat. Thanks, Herb
Posted on: 5/10/2009 10:34 AM by Author "hkilian" in the forum "OMP - Ohio Model Products Support Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8756512

RE: thrust plates
And I thought I was cheap... Herb
Posted on: 10/23/2008 5:58 PM by Author "hkilian" in the forum "OMP - Ohio Model Products Support Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8078358

RE: 65"YAK-SP65M kit??
Mike, As you are improving the kit, please make sure to pay attention to the motor mount. As I have already stated in this forum, the two hardwood beams on the older ARF are set into a "sea of balsa", sheeted with some thinnish plywood. My YS 1.10 nearly fell out of the model after shaking the structure a bit - I was just lucky I noticed the substanital amplitudes of motion. I cut two U shaped motor mounts out of 1/4" plywood, epoxied them together and set them tightly into the structure. Then I glassed 4-5 layers of cloth and epoxy over both sides of the front portion of the model (I posted photos somewhere on this forum). No further problems and the combo is delightful in every way! Strongly recommended! Herb
Posted on: 10/20/2008 4:44 PM by Author "hkilian" in the forum "OMP - Ohio Model Products Support Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8067242

RE: Rudder Flutter Yak 65"
the truth! Herb [quote]ORIGINAL: hkilian Spacey, My prop is an APC 15x10 and the control surfaces
Posted on: 6/15/2008 12:14 PM by Author "hkilian" in the forum "OMP - Ohio Model Products Support Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7621171

RE: Rudder Flutter Yak 65"
Spacey, My prop is an APC 15x10 and the control surfaces are all sealed with tape. Not sure if I always fully close the throttle when pointing downhill but the flutter has also been observed in level flight. The YS 1.10 runs great with a static rpm range of 2,100 - 8,900. Another interesting piece of data: the end tip of the rudder (longest distance from hinge line) moves 4-5 mm due to gear lash in the servo which appears to be a lot but then, this is a large rudder. I will follow the various points recommended and do the following o replace the rudder horn with a metal or fiberglass horn, preferably two parallel flanges, put ball link in between them. The current nylon horn is somewhat flexible as was stated o go with a digital servo, karbonite gears or similar, pick one with no play o go easy on the throttle (difficult with such a powerful motor, the thing seems to hover on high idle...) o if successful make the same changes to the elevator drive train I'll keep you posted, thanks for the advice! Herb
Posted on: 6/5/2008 9:37 AM by Author "hkilian" in the forum "OMP - Ohio Model Products Support Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7582972

Rudder Flutter Yak 65"
After now over 15 flights on my still new Yak 55 (65") with a YS 1.10 I have couple of questions: Although I try to avoid flying this plane fast (as is suggested in the manual), the rudder has a strong tendency to flutter. Slowing the plane down immediately calms things down. Today it looked as if the entire empennage was shaking in a (not so nice) harmonic vibration on a down-line. All control surfaces are driven by Hitec 945's (all metal drive train), I have a Hitec 81 on the throttle. I noticed the quite significant gear play on these servos, amplified by the control setup. Attached picture shows my hardware which I believe is pretty much uninvolved in contributing to free play. My question is if I should invest into a digital servo with around 120oz/in or if anybody has tried a pull-pull cable setup for the rudder on these models. On the other end of the plane I had to re-engineer the motor mount area so that the YS wouldn't fall off. I reinforced the structure with plywood plates and glassed about 4-5 layers to both sides of the fuselage. I suggest anyone putting a large 4-stroke on these profiles pay close attention to the flimsy motor mounting rails. They are set into a "sea of balsa". Sorry for the critique but I nearly had my motor fall out of the plane in flight. Herb
Posted on: 6/4/2008 5:24 PM by Author "hkilian" in the forum "OMP - Ohio Model Products Support Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7580364

RE: Pics of my new yak 55 SP
Well, here is my ARF YAK 55 in flight. Bought it as a combo with the YS 1.10 at the Toledo Show last month. After breaking in the engine and enforcing the motor mount area I'm completely happy with it. Telepathic control: you think what you want it to do and there it goes... Seriously, the flight characteristics are so balanced, it makes any idiot look good (not that I'm in that category).
Posted on: 5/8/2008 6:37 PM by Author "hkilian" in the forum "OMP - Ohio Model Products Support Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7472714

RE: Vibration and 4 strokes
Aviti, I have the same model/motor combination that you mention - OMP Yak 65 and YS 110. The motor shook so badly, it broke and loosened the mounting rails and the structure they are glued to (this is an ARF). I have been flying the model before discovering this and am very impressed with the Yak. I'll rebuild the front end regluing and strengthening the motor mount area and try it again. Since I'm still breaking in the YS (a little over 1 gallon so far) I will also pay attention to the low end needle setting as other posters have mentioned. Question for you: did you alter or enforce the structure on your YAK before mounting the YS engine? Herb
Posted on: 4/29/2008 9:02 AM by Author "hkilian" in the forum "OMP - Ohio Model Products Support Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7434383

OMP Yak 65, YS 110 Combo
At the Toledo show this April I bought the OMP Yak 65 ARF with a YS 1.10 engine. Plane went together very well and was completed without problems. I'm using Hitec 645 servos for control surfaces and a Hitec 81 for the throttle. The included hardware was mostly adequate and I did only minor upgrades that are not worth mentioning. In short, the airplane came out looking (and flies) as good or better than anticipated. Here's my problem: 1. No experience in running a 4-stroke engine, have run only a good gallon of 20/20 fuel through it 2. Engine is running rich as it should, still adjusting low end needle as suggested in manual 3. Idle is unreliable with firing misses, especially after removing glow plug driver 4. Engine and front fuselage shaking at alarming amplitudes at idle and higher throttle (appears to be flexing, tightly secured bolts) 5. Engine run time only 6-7min on tank that came with ARF (350cc) Again, flight performance is astounding, very predictable, easy to hover, knife edge, spin etc. The engine only needs 1/4 to 1/2 throttle, impossible to land at high idle due to the power available. My impression is that the YS is too much engine for this plane and that the front of the plank is not stiff enough to take the vibrations the engine generates. Although impressed with the power of the YS I'm nonplussed with the shaking and the high fuel consumption - I had bought this as less fuel thirsty powerplant vs. an OS 1.20 for example. Would appreciate any comments and help, thanks! Herb
Posted on: 4/28/2008 11:20 AM by Author "hkilian" in the forum "Profile and Fun Flying Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7430099

RE: RV-4 wing rebuild
I built the RV4 some time ago and was not happy with the way the the first wing came out. I re-ordered a complete new wing and received all necessary materials prompty. The second time around it was a charm. This is a very nice flying sportplane (I had 4 servos in the wing and fully operational flaps). Unfortunately I lost the plane when trying to fly with a collapsed antenna which gave me a smooth take-off but an out-of-control situation shortly thereafter. Herb
Posted on: 1/1/2007 11:31 AM by Author "hkilian" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5191776

Building board for small Dumas airplane
After building kit planes for a number of years on all kind of boards and always cursing the fact that push pins don't really want to stay put, I am tackling now a Dumas Waco YMF 5. The kit is beautifully laser cut and of course has a large bundle of rather small balsa sticks. A lot of bending of laminated balsa around patterns for wingtips and empennage has to be done. My question is, what is the best kind of building surface for this kind of intricate work? I want to take my time and really enjoy building but am somewhat intimidated by the fragile nature of many of the parts (actually all of them) that go into this beautiful plane. Herb (enjoying flying full-size gliders, have my LS8-18 right now in the basement for the winter break here in Chicago)
Posted on: 12/26/2006 5:37 PM by Author "hkilian" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5164270

Graupner LS8 Glider, anyone with experience?
Since I fly a full scale Rolladen Schneider LS8-18 and also do some RC flying, my son thought it would be a neat idea to give me a model of my glider as a present. He found a kit for this discontinued 3m Graupner model on ebay and bought it. The kit arrived here in the US in great shape from Lubeck, Germany recently. Googling the LS8 did not bring up any reviews for this model. Does anyone on this forum have built, flown or seen it operated? I would fly it on slopes and also try and have it aerotowed. Herb
Posted on: 7/24/2004 7:24 PM by Author "hkilian" in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2020094