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RE: Gas cans for our gas motors?
rubbermaid and hanger 9
Posted on: 9/17/2012 6:28 PM by Author "hobby_man"
in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11231719
RE: ZENOAH G26 RPM
I had an xroar 18 x 6-7900 rpm on my g-26 ei after so more tuning
Posted on: 9/17/2012 5:55 PM by Author "hobby_man"
in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11231724
RE: Gas cans for our gas motors?
rubbermaid and hanger 9
Posted on: 9/17/2012 5:50 PM by Author "hobby_man"
in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11231717
RE: Do I need a seperate harness if I have 5.5mm connectors??
wire your speed control for series. like the factory boats (revolt 30 and so on) NEVER try and remember how the batteries plug in, one time mistake cost you a speed control and a set of lipo's
Posted on: 9/17/2012 5:47 PM by Author "hobby_man"
in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11231713
RE: Low needle lean ? ? ?
stumble,,,,baaaroooom! I have the G-26 with a wt-613 carb (accellerator) when you more the T from Idle to about 1/3 T you here the above, the motor stumbles and baaaarooom from T to 1/3 T the motor should ract like a nitro as far as rpm increase, pretty snappy! turn out the low speed 1 screwdriver blade width and try it,,, repeat to suit.
Posted on: 9/14/2012 7:35 PM by Author "hobby_man"
in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11228874
RE: Aquacraft Revolt 30
sold mine, Tower gave me my money back
Posted on: 9/12/2012 6:01 PM by Author "hobby_man"
in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11226681
RE: TRAXXAS SPARTAN ESC
[quote]ORIGINAL: barney 5 thanx for the reply, so as i understand the castle esc will heat up on 6s but what about the traxxas veleniom esc? will it be trustworthy on 6s? [/quote] NO, that why traxxas switched to the castle speed control, the veleniom were failing its a great 4s boat, If you want to go 6s get the new pro boat impluse 31 V2, I am getting one as well
Posted on: 9/12/2012 7:08 AM by Author "hobby_man"
in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11226042
RE: TRAXXAS SPARTAN ESC
I have the Spartan, for 2 summers now, its not stock any longer. You can run the boat on a 4s set up, 2 2s lipo's in series for a 4s set up. If you want to go faster you can do 5s with the same mah rated lipos. 6S,,,now you have problems, the liner in the brass stuffing tube can not handle the 39,960 RPM's (1800kv motor) the castle speed sontrol will over heat and melt all of the soldering, allowing water into the electic side and poof! this happened to me. the stock traxxas connectors are not rated for the 105 amps the boat will draw. go to offshore electrics and read up
Posted on: 9/11/2012 7:42 AM by Author "hobby_man"
in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11224972
RE: Gas Engine interference
(Both JR and Spektrum specifically warn against using "Y"s and reversing Y's in the 2.4GhZ systems.) AH, this is interesting, I have used 2 of them for years on my spektrum 2.4, I never read any warnings on the Futaba site about this, guess I looked under the wrong rock!
Posted on: 9/5/2012 10:00 AM by Author "hobby_man"
in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11218349
RE: Gas Engine interference
[quote]ORIGINAL: BarracudaHockey Yes, reversing Y's and servo extensions with amplifiers are a no-no for Spektrum 2.4 installations. Twisting servo wires does nothing. Twisting pairs of communication cables is a different story but thats not applicable to what we are doing. [/quote] are you saying these by futaba,Futaba SR-10 Dual Servo Reverse http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXANF2&P=7 can not be used on a spektrum system?
Posted on: 9/5/2012 7:09 AM by Author "hobby_man"
in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11218197
RE: ZENOAH G26 RPM
I had an xroar 18 x 6 7500 rpm on my g-26 ei now I have an 17x 8 7600 rpm and more pull and my YAK has anyone changed out the wt644 carb for a wt813 ? the wt-813 has an accelrator pump feature Is anyone using these carbes with the primer buld?
Posted on: 8/29/2012 9:46 AM by Author "hobby_man"
in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11210349
RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
[quote]ORIGINAL: Joystick TX I may be wrong, but this is the Syssa forum, and the question was why the Syssa does not have a fuel bulb. Seems like there was an attempt to add one by changing the carb. I know others have changed the carb to get ''better'' performance. I don't think they were successful. There has been no big push to change carbs, so I don't think they were. [/quote] When you buy a wt-813 from syssa, syssa takes the bulb off. I was reading a walbro manual and from what I read there is an advantage to leaving the bulb on the carb.
Posted on: 8/29/2012 7:48 AM by Author "hobby_man"
in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11210201
RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
[quote]ORIGINAL: Joystick TX [quote]ORIGINAL: hobby_man QUESTION I have an airplane motor (zenoah g26 EI) with a walboro wt-644 carb, it has a choke and a primer bulb, can an airplane engine be flown with a primer bulb? Why doe syssa remove the primer bulb on its carbs? [/quote] The primer bulb would be hard to get to on a model plane with a cowl. A large finger hole would need to be cut to gain
Posted on: 8/28/2012 7:48 PM by Author "hobby_man"
in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11209782
RE: Aquacraft Revolt 30
[quote]ORIGINAL: srt10 [quote]ORIGINAL: hobby_man [quote]ORIGINAL: Brad Mc Hey, I have a question about my lipos for my Revolt 30. I have 2 of the <span style=''mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA''>2
Posted on: 8/28/2012 7:40 PM by Author "hobby_man"
in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11209773
RE: Aquacraft Revolt 30
good thing I typed[b] about 3.6 volts[/b] I was off .057 [:D]
Posted on: 8/28/2012 7:37 PM by Author "hobby_man"
in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11209770
RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
QUESTION I have an airplane motor (zenoah g26 EI) with a walboro wt-644 carb, it has a choke and a primer bulb, can an airplane engine be flown with a primer bulb? Why doe syssa remove the primer bulb on its carbs?
Posted on: 8/28/2012 6:33 PM by Author "hobby_man"
in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11209700
RE: What happens if arf and kit building prices meet?
[quote]ORIGINAL: AmishWarlord All of you old farts are living in the past. ''Shows great grandchild an ancient ''DVD'' of building a RC Cub back in 2010.'' ''LOL Great grandpaw, you guys sure looked scanny back then, using your hands to build stuff like a baby''. The future will be to print out a perfect Top Gun scale class airplanes complete with running radial piston or jet engine from your 3D printer for $100 bucks worth of plastic and metal dust. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aFFFiB_if18 [/quote] People are making their kids toys with these printers at work we make molds and low volume parts with the new plastics that can be extruded
Posted on: 8/28/2012 10:13 AM by Author "hobby_man"
in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11209111
RE: Aquacraft Revolt 30
[quote]ORIGINAL: Brad Mc Hey, I have a question about my lipos for my Revolt 30. I have 2 of the <span style=''mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA''>2 of the GrimRacer 7.4V, 5000 mAh batteries. Attached is a picture of my charger while charging and a picture of my meter immediately after charging. How is it possible for each cell to be over 3.7V?? Why does my charger show 8.16V while charging?? I removed the battereies from the charger as soon as they were complete. My meter showed both batteries charged up to 99%. Please help me understand, thanks!! [/quote] each cell of any lipo battery shows a voltage of 4.2 when charged each cell should be at 4.2 so the cells are balanced/charged, if you get one cell at 4.2/4.19 or so and the other cell only gets to 4.0/4.01 the cells are off you should follow the 80% rule, do not discharge any more than 80% of the batteries capacity 5000mah x .8 = 4000 you should see about 4000 mah being charged back into the battery at the 80% discharge your cells will be about 3.6 volts each if you over discharge the battery, say you take 5200 mah out of the battery your cells could drop below 3.0 volts and then the charger will give you a low voltage error and it will not charge them capacity
Posted on: 8/28/2012 9:19 AM by Author "hobby_man"
in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11209053
RE: Aquacraft Revolt 30
[quote]ORIGINAL: stuball56 Well, when mine was ''stock'' it got quite hot after 4 1/2 minutes straight out running. So I changed the esc, wires, and bullets. Now I run a GR 42-55 with a Aquastar 120 and 5.5 battery connectors and 6mm on the motor. Still gets mighty warm after 3 or 4 minutes of hot laps. I don't question that you have a problem, just commenting is all. [/quote] I Understand, sorry just a little miffed with this boat, I spent last summer with a Traxxas Spartan. It took me some time to get all the bugs out of it. I figured I would leave this unit stock and it would run,,,NOT I had not opened up the hole on the side of the rudder until I got it back from the 2nd repair, which they resoldered the bullets, I belive the motor was bad so when I ran the boat for 3 minutes the 3rd time it died. It wasnt the bullets. I did note more water coming out the exit tube and the motor inside of the boat was cooler when I first opened the hatch. Cooler than in the past. In the past blue smoke would come out when I opened the hatch, blue smoke = burning winding If Aquacraft would have replaced the motor the 2nd time and I did the rudder mod I believe the boat would have run fine.
Posted on: 8/23/2012 10:50 AM by Author "hobby_man"
in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11203544
RE: Aquacraft Revolt 30
[quote]ORIGINAL: stuball56 Well, yes. Running for 7 minutes straight will straight up ruin most setups in a FEÂ boat setup to run on the edge. I f running 7 straight minutes is your goal, then you need to prop down, alot. [/quote] it's a stock out of the box boat! So it not running on the edge!
Posted on: 8/23/2012 9:49 AM by Author "hobby_man"
in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11203475
RE: Aquacraft Revolt 30
My boat is stock, so it would be the 42x55 grimm I don' know the CG off the top of my head, what are you running for a CG?
Posted on: 8/23/2012 8:34 AM by Author "hobby_man"
in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11203375
RE: Aquacraft Revolt 30
[quote]ORIGINAL: srt10 very strange................ I just got mine from Tower, and everything is perfect on my Revolt30 [;)] [/quote] did it come with the slot in the rudder opened up? If not see the tech note on the aquacraft web site. I am running mine with a pair of 2s 10,000 mah lipos, try running the boat for 7 minutes straight, you can fry an egg on the motor and the solder joints on the bullets let loose and the wires melt the foam on the hatch.
Posted on: 8/23/2012 7:06 AM by Author "hobby_man"
in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11203246
RE: Aquacraft Revolt 30
well I am sending this Revolt boat back for repairs, the 3rd time first time was a motor/speed control replaced second time same third time same, I think I have had this boat 10 weeks, I got it when it first came out. I called the tech's complaining about how hot the boat got and was told not to worry about it, its fine Then Aquacraft comes out with a tech update on their web site to modify the rudder intake hole which I was told by someone on this site. I registered the boat they never contacted me AND while the boat was in for repairs the 2nd time Aquacraft did not update the rudder that they are telling us to do. Now the boat is going back the 3rd time for what I think is the motor burn out. The boat quit and then the motor was herkey jerky for a turn and then quit turning. The speed control will not arm.
Posted on: 8/22/2012 9:46 AM by Author "hobby_man"
in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11202170
RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
[quote]ORIGINAL: TexasSkyPilot I have a few photos, hopefully they'll upload from this laptop. My solution to the same issue. Nobody likes their hands chewed up. A simple framework, a light aluminum square tube, some epoxy and a healthy dose of microballoons. Ran a smaller round tube through the square tubes while the epoxy set, and the tubes aim right at the screws. The tubes begin about 3/16'' from the mixture screws, and they end just inside the cowling, which has a rectangle cut close around them to accommodate them. I found a screwdriver that fits perfectly, and it locks into each mixture screw. It's important to tune the top end mixture while it's running full bore, if you want it right. I suppose you can do low end and general transition by starting and stopping it; I've made small adjustments when mine stalls while I'm getting it dialed in. But getting it right when it cranking full-bore, you have to be able to hear the difference. This is the first one I made, it's on my GP Super Stearman Bipe. I haven't built one for my Giant Super Sportster yet, but getting the cowl off the Sportster is a piece of cake compared to the Stearman. Still, I'm planning to install a set on the GSS as well. ~ Jim ~[8D] [/quote] Now this is a trick for the trade! nice work/concept
Posted on: 8/21/2012 6:34 PM by Author "hobby_man"
in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11201520
RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
[quote]ORIGINAL: Joystick TX [quote]ORIGINAL: hobby_man Thanks for all the help people, you know who you are. Some of the conversations you were having on this form helped me refigure and re check the issues with the set up on the Syssa. I have a Zenoah G26 that I have never had an issue with. The guys at my club have never had to mess around with their DLE or 3W's so they did not have any
Posted on: 8/21/2012 2:13 PM by Author "hobby_man"
in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11201249
RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
Thanks for all the help people, you know who you are. Some of the conversations you were having on this form helped me refigure and re check the issues with the set up on the Syssa. I have a Zenoah G26 that I have never had an issue with. The guys at my club have never had to mess around with their DLE or 3W's so they did not have any trouble shooting expierence. This Syssa was an issue for the start. 1. the engine would no run with the factory settings (???) 2. screen in the carb was plugged with what looked like saw dust. ( during the build contamination?) 3. the mesh looking diaphram on the carb was ruined, it had a big bubble on it where is should be flat. (Bad gas?) 4. installed a new carb and the updated muffler 5. motor would still not run on the factory settings. (vaccum leak?) 6. cleaned carb screen 7.removed the fuel filter, made the fule line shorter, rerouted the fuel line, set carb at factory settings, engine now runs. The big issue I had is getting over the fear of getting next to the propeller to tune the engine. I can hold my hedge trimmer, chain saw, leaf blower, etc and mess with the carb until I get it right. The engine has spinning hand remover 6 inches from the work space. I have an idea that may be a solution for this, I'll share it when I am done
Posted on: 8/21/2012 8:02 AM by Author "hobby_man"
in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11200838
RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
[quote]ORIGINAL: Joystick TX [quote]ORIGINAL: hobby_man I am running the throttle cable by hand so I advanced it as fast as I can shove it into the carb. I will use my heat gun and check the temp of the motor. no it has not been calibrated, right now the probe says its 73 degrees, its 73 degrees outside via the house thermometer and the news, good enough for me. the fuel filter does not leak
Posted on: 8/21/2012 4:38 AM by Author "hobby_man"
in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11200640
RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
Tomorrow I will put the fuel filter back and see if this ruins the set up http://youtu.be/EM3aLFm2RsA Take a look, tell me this is the way this engine is suposed to run!
Posted on: 8/20/2012 7:56 PM by Author "hobby_man"
in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11200326
RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
changed 3 things (H out 1.5 L out 1.5) (removed the blue inline fuel filter) in case of vaccum leak (clean carb screen) it has a tiny tiny spectical of gue at the bottom of the screen, sprayed with wd 40 heat guns says thermal probe if off, the higher the temp the more it is off, I saw 240 F on the motor with the heat gun and 280 on the probe I have a new video, waiting for it to up load here is the plug and set up It really looks like it was that fuel filter!
Posted on: 8/20/2012 6:50 PM by Author "hobby_man"
in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11200306
RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
I am running the throttle cable by hand so I advanced it as fast as I can shove it into the carb. I will use my heat gun and check the temp of the motor. no it has not been calibrated, right now the probe says its 73 degrees, its 73 degrees outside via the house thermometer and the news, good enough for me. the fuel filter does not leak the high speed screw is out 3 low speed is out 2 how are you people getting to the carb screen without removing 1 of the standoff's? (this is an oops design)[:-]
Posted on: 8/20/2012 4:23 PM by Author "hobby_man"
in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11200113
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