RE: Howard DGA Kangkeusa
Here are a few photos. The design is really pretty good. Notice the cowl detail, wing saddle and tube. Well thought out for most part. Elevator requires two servos in rear with a direction reverser harness. Could have been avoided with elevator halves tied together. Cheap little main wheels replaced. Aluminum landing gear strengthened with Bennett gear kit. Zenoah G 38 with cup mount fits nicely. But I would really rather build the whole thing and make all the decisions on hardware and accessories. Like the extra photo of Waco, plan built.
Posted on: 9/9/2012 7:48 AM by Author "hopkimf" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11222682

Howard DGA Kangkeusa
I bought this ARF on RCU. It was like pulling teeth getting everything from seller. Came in three installments. Good quality on structure, covering, etc. Nice fiberglass. I thought the manual (PDF) was weak and incomplete. I know, how hard is an ARF? No overall hardware list, so I don't know if I got it all. Numerous runs to hardware store for metric fasteners, misc things. Main landing gear looks like it will flatten with a not even very hard landing. Will reinforce. Tailwheel and bracket, springs etc. looked like from 0.40 size plane. Tires small, axles light, I thought. Engine will be a G-38. Anyone else have experience with one of these planes? Problems or trouble free? How do they fly? Thanks.
Posted on: 9/4/2012 5:59 AM by Author "hopkimf" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11216754

RE: Are all RC forum's activity in decline?
I think the whole RC universe concept has been beaten to death. It takes me lots of work to learn anything, and I'm tired of ignorant opinions. As far as RC universe market is concerned, I used it for 10-12 years without any problems. Buyers and sellers acting in good faith and delivering what's advertised. On my last transaction, it didn't work out well. Took forever to get an incomplete package followed by promises after I complained and seller was suspended. I believe both buyers and sellers need protection. RC Universe does not provide that. Nor do they mediate in problems. I am finished using RC universe for buying or selling. You can just go away as far as I'm concerned.
Posted on: 7/3/2012 6:26 PM by Author "hopkimf" in the forum "The Clubhouse"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11141944

AROPLANE STILL DID NOT DELIVER
My previous post was deleted by RCU. Earlier I got nothing from this guy after he cashed my check. Then it finally showed up. I was happy until I discovered no instructions and no hardware. I went after him again. He produced an online manual and promised hardware. Nothing yet. RCU has not really done anything except to suspend him. They suggested some things like contact local police, stop payment, etc. Tried stop payment. Too late. Police action from Chicago area to NY unlikely. I'm irritated at the seller and the toothless approach by RCU.
Posted on: 7/2/2012 6:29 PM by Author "hopkimf" in the forum "The Clubhouse"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11140608

RE: Jim Pepino's YMF-5 Waco
I followed Ken's method (shown above) for the struts and it worked out well. Have not flown much myself. Hope to get with it this spring. Waco is still in basement. It has not flown yet. All I did was fire it up and cruise around yard at home. It wanted to fly.
Posted on: 1/18/2012 4:10 PM by Author "hopkimf" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10915842

RE: Hobby Partz
Here's the listing detail from RCU:15 Hobby Partz D227F Servos - Metal Gear - Digital - 110.00 Oz./In. Torque 5 Hobby Partz D226F Servos - Metal Gear - Digital - 180.00 Oz./In. Torque $120 for all. Pretty cheap!!
Posted on: 10/10/2011 5:17 AM by Author "hopkimf" in the forum "RC Radios, Transmitters, Receivers, Servos, gyros"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10757599

Hobby Partz
Just saw an ad today on RCU listing Hobby Partz servos dirt cheap. I looked up their website and they are cheap. Never heard of them and have always avoided low cost stuff in favor of JR and Hitec. No problems with either. But is it possible that the low cost suppliers are offering a product good enough, and reliable enough to be considered? I tried to research the subject here but didn't see any informed threads. Thanks.
Posted on: 10/9/2011 5:49 PM by Author "hopkimf" in the forum "RC Radios, Transmitters, Receivers, Servos, gyros"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10756897

Aileron Servo Issue-Head Scratcher
My Ikon Monocoupe D145 is about 10 years old and flies well. I hadn't flown it since last season, and when checking it out, I found a small aileron servo reversal / bounce on one side. Since I know little, I tried changing Y harness, thinking maybe the connections were bad. Improved it a bit, but not enough. So I changed out the JR servo with a cheap Tower Pro, since that's all I had. Bounce and reversal were gone. I share the transmitter with other models and had to do a servo reverse. That brought an un-commanded full stroke of both aileron servos. What's going on? I replaced the receiver and saw [8D]no change. Then I switched transmitters with another identical JR and the problem was gone. I was ready to go. Except both ailerons went up together and down together. Did I have the radio set for flapperons or something? No. It appears the JR and Tower Pro servos rotate in opposite directions for the same input command. My fix was to flip the servo plate around so the arm was on the inboard side and moved the control horn. It works. What did I learn? Don't use junk. Use a matched pair of servos. Don't arbitrairly change the receiver when the problem showed up on the transmitter.
Posted on: 8/18/2011 6:18 PM by Author "hopkimf" in the forum "RC Radios, Transmitters, Receivers, Servos, gyros"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10676787

RE: Top Flite Staggerwing
Thanks for the comments kochj. I'll do that. Maybe I'm resisting because I'm allergic to CA and need to use odorless. Meantime I've read most of the threads and everything seems to fit. No wing dowel problems. I didn't plan to put on retracts, but I really should. Is there any lower cost, workable alternatives out there? Robart is about $250 from Tower not counting air valve, etc. Thanks, Mike Hopkins
Posted on: 1/3/2011 12:49 PM by Author "hopkimf" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10236717

RE: Top Flite Staggerwing
I'm new to this post. I have a Top Flite Staggerwing and am just getting started on it. Power will be a G26. Is there anything unusual I should watch for. It all looks pretty good by eye. Maybe not for a few details. First thing I did was put the throttle servo in and found the screws (9/16 socket head servo screws) would not hold. The tray is pretty light and thin. Then I saw the instructions call for drops of CA. OK, but I've never had to do this before on any of the 30-40 ARFs and kits I've built. Also noticed the instructions call for epoxy for the wing servo mount blocks followed by a tiny screw and more CA. Is this necessary? I've never had a problem there unless I crashed it. Thanks, Mike Hopkins
Posted on: 12/30/2010 2:58 PM by Author "hopkimf" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10228139

RE: looking for shaped aluminum for wing struts
Just like WacoNut, I used that GTM material for my 1/4 Waco YMF. Good material.
Posted on: 12/4/2010 4:21 PM by Author "hopkimf" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10176272

RE: Scratch Build Graphics Tools
Here are a few shots of my PROE learning experience. I'm not claiming this design is any good, but I was able to put in a CLARK Y airfoil and make a double taper on the wing with little trouble. Likewise for fuse formers and stringers. I'm not an aircraft designer so it has taken some head scratching to find easy ways to do things. Like stringers which are constructed as sweeps and wing sections as blends. But it's easy to see what's right and wrong. Like the fuse photo with former cutting through vert and horiz stab. Once done, repeats are easy. So when I get to actually designing something I intend to build, it should be easy.
Posted on: 1/15/2010 10:38 PM by Author "hopkimf" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9419744

RE: Scratch Build Graphics Tools
'm still learning the software. But I believe the 3D is my only choice. A couple more pictures for grins. These are "renderings" that make it look pretty. This may be what some think that's all it's good for, but it will make part drawings, assemblies in 2D no problem.
Posted on: 12/28/2009 7:04 PM by Author "hopkimf" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9367270

RE: Scratch Build Graphics Tools
Here are some drawings made from PRO/E 3D models. One is for the concept plane. Just a simple drawing of assembly. The other is three views of a scratch radial. Neither are complete, but you can see the model is easily placed into a 2D drawing format. Whether it is one part or a complete assembly, a shop drawing to make the parts can easily be made.
Posted on: 12/9/2009 6:56 PM by Author "hopkimf" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9317419

RE: Scratch Build Graphics Tools
CoosBayLumber, I agree the 3D model doesn't lend itself to construction of parts or the plane. But the PRO/E software (and others) will make a 2D drawing of each part plus the assemblies. My employer has been making machinery with 3D for maybe a dozen years. The engineer designs in 3D and turns the model over to the drafting department where 2D drawings are made for the shop directly from the model(s). Sometimes the 3D model can be fed directly to a machine tool to cut the parts. Back in the old 2D days the engineer designed a complicated transmission housing or similar part that was full of blends and transitions. The only one who really knew what it looked like was the pattern maker. Some 2D designs just didn't work and needed to be fixed. That should not happen with 3D. The model needs to be geometrically correct or it blows up. No fudging or freehand. Of course I've seen my share of drive shafts that hit frames, heater hoses routed through engine blocks, or 10 inch gears that won't go thru an 8 inch hole. But with accurate background, and a semi conscious designer, these problems are minimized. Don't get me wrong. I spent 30 years or so in 2D. I'm getting to this late, but it seems like a clean, efficient way to do the overall plane rapidly, and with good geometry. Then get in to the piece part detail. I just finished a big Pepino Waco YMF this year. Plan was 20+ years old. It was full of parts that didn't fit right. That doesn't happen with a good 3D design.
Posted on: 12/5/2009 6:47 PM by Author "hopkimf" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9306512

Scratch Build Graphics Tools
I was wondering what designers use to design scratch built planes. I'm not a skilled draftsman, but am developing the ability to use PRO/E Firefox for 3D modeling. It seems to me the #D method is far superior to any 2D graphics. I could never go back to designing in 2d. just wondering what others do. Attached are a couple shots of an original design study. For me, it's a quick way to come up with overall shape and proportions. Just a couple partial days on and off.
Posted on: 12/4/2009 7:25 PM by Author "hopkimf" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9304247

RE: Bob Holman Fiesler Storch
I was just looking over the plans and have a few questions. Is the wing section thick enough to install servos within the wing to eliminate the bell cranks? How about wing attachment? Would fiber or aluminum tubes be better? Anybody tried these ideas? Also read above that someone is looking for a pre-made landing gear. Any info appreciated. Thanks, Mike Hopkins
Posted on: 10/24/2009 10:13 AM by Author "hopkimf" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - General"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9198176

RE: Bob Holman Fiesler Storch
I just bought the Bob Holman plans and laser cut wood on RCU. I will start building before long. All I got was a rolled set of plan sheets. No bill of material. Does anyone here know of a bill of material so I can order what's needed. Also, since the main gear is fairly complex, I'm interested in knowing if there iks a supplier out there. Thanks
Posted on: 10/22/2009 7:22 PM by Author "hopkimf" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - General"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9194387

RE: Best Way to Start Saito 150
SAito 150 now starts and runs. I bought a Tru-Turn 3 in spinner, a Sullivan white insert for starter and got a better battery. It now turns over, starts, and seems to rune fine. I'm just now putting a few tanks of fuel through it. It must be the older High compression version. It takes a bunch more to turn it over than my Saito and OS 120s. Thanks for all the tips. Mike H
Posted on: 6/22/2009 4:26 PM by Author "hopkimf" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8871973

RE: Radial Engine
Scratchbuilt, Thanks for the comments. I'll try that.
Posted on: 6/22/2009 4:16 PM by Author "hopkimf" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8871952

Radial Engine
I have a general question. While learning to use PRO/E Wildfire 3 D graphice, I decided to layout a scratch 9 cylinder radial engine. Not to build it, but just to learn the graphics package. I'm trying to make it technically correct so that everything is right and functional. I have little knowledge of valve train I set it up with a half speed cam ring, but am looking for detail on how it is actually done. I would like to lay in the train properly to get the 1-3-5-7-9-2-4-6 firing sequence. I have staggered lifters, so I need cams in two planes. Does anyone know where I could fnd cutaways or engineering drawings showing this area? I did a little looking on Google Patents but didn't see what i'm looking for. Thanks, Mike hopkins
Posted on: 6/21/2009 9:14 AM by Author "hopkimf" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8868770

RE: Radial Engine
Thanks. I'll try that.
Posted on: 6/17/2009 4:55 PM by Author "hopkimf" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8859954

Radial Engine
I posted a note in Clubhouse and didn't get any response, so I'm trying here. Designing a scratch 9 cylinder radial engine with PROE Wildfire to learn software. May never get beyond 3 D model but I want it tehnically correct. I'm looking for a source showing cutaway or drawings of valve train. I know there are several RC radials out there but have not come across any details yet. Millions of old patents on Google for Wright, Pratt & Whitney, Jacobs, etc, but I didn't see what I was looking for. Any leads appreciated. Thanks, Mike H
Posted on: 6/17/2009 2:33 PM by Author "hopkimf" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8859651

Radial Engine
I'm designing a 9 cylinder radial with PRO/E Wildfire, just to get familiar with software. No plans to take it beyond model stage, but I want to get it technically corect. I have been searching for a good cutaway or graphic showing the cam drive, but have not found anything yet. Can anyone point me towards a good reference that shows the layout of a nice clean sesign? I know what i want to do...firing order 1-3-5-7-9-2-4-6-8 with a cam ring but my thick skull just won't come up with what I want. Thanks, Mike H
Posted on: 6/17/2009 8:37 AM by Author "hopkimf" in the forum "The Clubhouse"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8858799

RE: Best Way to Start Saito 150
Guys, Thanks for all the good comments. I have the Sullivan Dynatron starter mentioned above, but my battery is wimpy. Maybe that's why it won't crank. I'll buy one with more amp hrs and get a Tru-Turn or similar spinner and try it again. The engine is new and never seen fuel until today.
Posted on: 6/6/2009 9:47 PM by Author "hopkimf" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8831325

Best Way to Start Saito 150
I have a Hangar9 Cap232 Arf w/ Saito 150. It has been sitting in basement unflown since 02. Built with Saito 120 then made a swap here on RCU for Saito 150. Before this brute,my biggest 4 stroke has been 120 size. I've had both Saito and OS. They would start with Sullivan high torque starter. My procedure (right or wrong) with the starter has always been to cover the exhaust outlet and spin it with the starter to get fuel into engine. Put on the glow starter and they have started immediately I just tried to run this one for 1st time. The 150 wore a groove in the cheap supplied plastic spinner but would not turn it over. I covered the exhaust outlet and tried to hand prop it to fill the fuel line. Wasn't able to. Since engine is mounted with cylinder horizontal and cowled, the inlet hard to reach. So I squirted a little prime in. It did pop over with the chicken stick and ran backwards until it ran out of prime. Tried a few more times and spun prop loose, etc. Spinner broke into two pieces and took off like a rocket as prop came loose. I thought I had the prop nut pretty tight. Tried hand propping forward to start. Broke a wood prop on index finger (wore a glove). What do the experts recommend? Buy a bigger starter? Take up bowling or stamp collecting? Thanks.
Posted on: 6/6/2009 5:12 PM by Author "hopkimf" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8830826

RE: Jim Pepino's YMF-5 Waco
Hi Anthony, Don't look too closely. I deviated from scale by leaving a bunch of stuff off. Like the aileron corrugations. I didn't re do the aileron section to make it lay down. Ignored flying wires. Went with rear cockpit only. Lots of not to scale stuff. But from a distance it should be adequate. And it's built! I will be flying it soon. As a full scale pilot, I thought RC would be a piece of cake, but over the years I've trashed more than my share. I'm going to be careful on this one. Have you had yours up yet? I still have the Barth in the box. I admit I bought it without really knowing what I was getting. But it seems to be all there, and the price was pretty good. Getting it built and going will take some time. It makes me think I'm really in the big leagues with something like that. I've never gone beyond 1/4 scale so far. Regards, Mike Hopkins
Posted on: 5/11/2009 7:41 PM by Author "hopkimf" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8760762

RE: Jim Pepino's YMF-5 Waco
Ken, I'll check there. With all the little plan errors, I thought that might be wrong too. Did you need to make any CG adjustments once you flew it? Thanks, Mike Hopkins
Posted on: 5/10/2009 5:48 AM by Author "hopkimf" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8756080

RE: Jim Pepino's YMF-5 Waco
Couple more photos. It balanced at 0.30 of the combined width of upper and lower wings. No weights. Is this about the CG to use here? Thanks, Mike Hopkins
Posted on: 5/9/2009 7:35 PM by Author "hopkimf" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8755063

RE: Jim Pepino's YMF-5 Waco
Ken, Thanks for the tips. I see from the photos how you handled it. I'm going to get a similar result since I made brackets with the ball link at one end. By flipping them end for end and left and right, I should be able to reduce the throw on uppers, and adjust as needed with transmitter. Thanks, Mike H
Posted on: 5/4/2009 8:11 AM by Author "hopkimf" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8738960