RE: Help identify
What a beautiful example of a fireball! Bob
Posted on: 11/21/2009 12:25 AM by Author "icerinkdad" in the forum "Control Lines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9269170

RE: Yak 9 engine question?
The OS 25 is an excellent choice. It produces roughly the same power as the Fox stunt 35 and vibrates less. Bob
Posted on: 11/21/2009 12:23 AM by Author "icerinkdad" in the forum "Control Lines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9269168

RE: Nobler ARF Advice
I havent put together one of the Nobler ARFs but if you drop into either stunt hanger or stuka stunt works you will find more advice than any sane person will want to read. Bob
Posted on: 10/29/2009 7:25 AM by Author "icerinkdad" in the forum "Control Lines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9211706

RE: Is this guy serious?
Another good reason to not be too unkind to someone for what is posted on the bay.... ya never know when it might be a friend from here who just doesnt know the value. Bob
Posted on: 10/28/2009 6:18 PM by Author "icerinkdad" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9210247

RE: Best
Actually just photocopy all the parts... then use an iron to activate the ink again by placing the photocopy ink side down on the appropriate size balsa sheet and applying heat. The image should transfer to the balsa and then you just cut them out like an old style printwood kit. Acetone also usually works to transfer the image but there is some fire risk.
Posted on: 10/28/2009 1:22 PM by Author "icerinkdad" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9209382

RE: Best
If the kit is complete you might consider using it as templates... it has been out of production so long that it may draw fairly high prices on Ebay. And it is unlikely that you (or I) will ever see another one available. Bob
Posted on: 10/28/2009 1:10 PM by Author "icerinkdad" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9209356

RE: Best
Sig bought the rights to Berkley from Fox many many years ago so yes.
Posted on: 10/28/2009 12:49 PM by Author "icerinkdad" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9209294

RE: YAK 54
If I were building a new wing for something like this I would do it in cut foam... quick, fairly easy and probably lighter than the current wing with more area. Bob
Posted on: 10/28/2009 12:47 PM by Author "icerinkdad" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9209286

RE: Is this guy serious?
That seems to be about a dollar too much....
Posted on: 10/27/2009 11:14 PM by Author "icerinkdad" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9208071

RE: Is this guy serious?
I am sure he is... too bad they are not cox parts... they look like wenmac. Bob
Posted on: 10/27/2009 10:53 PM by Author "icerinkdad" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9207998

RE: Something never seen before!?!?!?!?????
I would do a small stick glider out of 1/16 balsa and see how it flys or if it can be made to fly. Bob
Posted on: 10/17/2009 2:03 AM by Author "icerinkdad" in the forum "S.P.A.D. Aircraft - Coroplast design"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9179731

RE: Word of waring on Brodak ARF
A large part of the problem is the manufacturers in China. At least one other importer has had problems with the Chinese manufacturers using too little glue in high stress areas. Thanks for sharing your issue but I do have to ask if you pull tested the plane before flying it. I have never bought a prebuilt plane without a very careful exam before flying it. Bob
Posted on: 10/11/2009 1:51 PM by Author "icerinkdad" in the forum "Control Lines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9163943

RE: Exotic surestart
I have to admit I have never seen a Cox run that slow... but the prop looked like a 7" electric prop... way too much disk area to generate much power. When he gets it to work with 5.5X4 on it I will be very interested.
Posted on: 10/10/2009 11:54 PM by Author "icerinkdad" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9162891

RE: testors McCOY .049 RED HEAD
An adequate sport engine... about the same power as a baby bee from Cox. Better sold in package on ebay and replaced with a current production 049 and pocket the surplus. In the package it is collectable... out it is just another old McCoy.
Posted on: 10/7/2009 7:47 AM by Author "icerinkdad" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9153307

RE: ACE ALPHA WITH COX BLACK WIDOW
Switch to a 5.5X3 or even a 5X3 and make sure you are using 25% nitro fuel. Also a high compression glow head will help (norvel or TD). The Cox engines do not lug big props and produce their best power with a somewhat smaller prop than you are using.
Posted on: 10/6/2009 11:46 PM by Author "icerinkdad" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9152820

RE: sterling flying fool scratch build
Well... there kinda was a half a... I remember a little Ringmaster Bipe that was fun to fly (one of the first half a's I got to loop). Lost the top wing in a crash and then flew it very fast on the tiny bottom wing for several months more. Bob
Posted on: 9/29/2009 3:16 PM by Author "icerinkdad" in the forum "Control Lines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9133446

RE: Cox Engine Illustrations
There is a 1/2a group on yahoo... check out what they have in their files. Bob
Posted on: 9/16/2009 7:04 PM by Author "icerinkdad" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9101445

RE: Hi, i have a ucontrol plane i wanna restore
PS you might consider one of the iron on fabric coverings to replace the silk. I do not know if you will be able to track down a checkerboard finish though.... it takes a lot of work but masking and painting would get you close to the effect.
Posted on: 9/3/2009 10:27 PM by Author "icerinkdad" in the forum "Control Lines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9068350

RE: Hi, i have a ucontrol plane i wanna restore
Getting old silk off isnt too hard. Any that doesnt pull easily can be removed with acetone brushed on where it is sticking to the wood. Just brush it on and let it set a minute or two to soften the old finish that is holding the silk on. Dont overdo it as the glue may also be softened by the acetone if you use too much. I am fairly sure that Sig Manufacturing carries silk and the dope finish that is used with silk. Also Brodak carries a full line of control line items including covering. It may be hard to find checkerboard finished silk as I have not seen that for years. Enjoy the memories as you restore the plane and get it back flying. Bob
Posted on: 9/3/2009 10:24 PM by Author "icerinkdad" in the forum "Control Lines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9068345

RE: Skyray 35 plans
Skyray 35 plans are available from SIG and since they are copyrighted I would suggest you get them that way. Bob Furr
Posted on: 8/27/2009 6:43 PM by Author "icerinkdad" in the forum "Control Lines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9050263

RE: blackwidow or sure start
Essentially they are the same engine. So it boils down to one thing... with a seperate fuel tank you can get a much longer engine run (if that is what you want). Bob
Posted on: 7/19/2009 8:36 PM by Author "icerinkdad" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8947119

RE: Where can I find a Lil Snip...
Check the plans list from Flying Models magazine or Model Aviation. I am fairly sure that both have similar sized 1/2A combat designs from that era available. As far as a kit they are long out of production but it may be worth dropping a line to Midwest Models to see if they have plans available. Bob
Posted on: 7/17/2009 6:21 PM by Author "icerinkdad" in the forum "Control Lines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8942049

RE: Good Modern Engines?
The OS line of CL engines are pretty much okay with current fuels but do last longer on fuel with 20% oil with at least half of that castor. Look for any engine in an ABC setup as they are more forgiving. I am fairly sure the Brodak 25 uses an iron piston and steel sleve so may want castor oil too. The issue with CL is compounded by the 100 power all the time and no way to stop the motor (unless you are using a 3 line setup) if you end up going lean once in the air. There are some really good fuels (Fox, Sig and Brodak all come to mind immediately) available with 20% all castor oil lube. Or just pick up a quart of castor from SIG or Brodak and add about 8 oz to every gallon of fuel sold by your local hobby shop. Generally current production engines will last longer with a higher castor content than you will find in fuel sold in many hobby shops. Bob
Posted on: 7/13/2009 2:30 PM by Author "icerinkdad" in the forum "Control Lines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8929401

RE: Phantom Mite
At 35 pounds the problem isnt strength. Most fishing line is a nylon product that gives very poor control. You need something that does not streach when pulled on. Bob
Posted on: 7/1/2009 6:00 PM by Author "icerinkdad" in the forum "Control Lines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8898753

RE: Need opinions on material for flying wing
For years I have used paper covering on foam wings put down with thinned white glue. I located a product called "banner paper" at an office supply store that is about the same thickness as typing paper. I mist the paper with water before applying the glue with a brush to avoid having too much sink into the paper. Do both sides at the same time to avoid problems with warping the wing due to shrink of the paper. Wet it looks bad and weights a lot... dried the only real weight gain is the paper. Do a sample on a scrap of foam first to get a feel for how it all works. When everything is dry use a low temp iron on (econocote or similar) to finish the wing. Bob PS This works really well and I have some 95mph control line combat models that have held up well as proof.
Posted on: 7/1/2009 11:25 AM by Author "icerinkdad" in the forum "Composites Fabrication And Repair"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8897648

RE: Phantom Mite
Let's start out that I am in the USA so may not have a full answer for someone in the UK. That said fishing line that is identified as "fusion" works well for smaller control line models and there even was a push this last rules cycle for using them in CL combat here in the states(it did not pass). Remember that any knot reduces the breaking strength at the point of the knot by as much as 50%. Look up knots for fishing on the web for best results. Here in the states there are craft stores that sell beading supplies including .008 and .012 stainless wire in suitable lengths. Bob Furr If you go to the Brodak website the international dealers are listed and it is likely that you will be able to source steel lines pretty easily.
Posted on: 7/1/2009 11:11 AM by Author "icerinkdad" in the forum "Control Lines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8897615

RE: Help with 1/2A C/L Catapult
For a long time I used a large cardboard box unfolded to take off from and a stooge that simply caught an eyebolt in the rear of my 1/2A planes till I pulled a string to release them. That way I could take off even in fairly tall grass. The box unfolded to about 10 or 12 feet. Bob
Posted on: 6/29/2009 12:03 AM by Author "icerinkdad" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8889639

RE: 1/2A Combat engine ?
I am about 95% sure that the Wasp has the same thread size as the Norvel and Cox engines. If so yes as Galbreth makes a head for the Norvel and Cox that would work on the Wasp. I do not know if it would be a big performance increase though. The Brodak engine has a relatively poor head design that uses a standard glow plug. Because of that the gain is much bigger. Bob
Posted on: 6/19/2009 1:47 PM by Author "icerinkdad" in the forum "Control Lines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8864956

RE: 1/2A Combat engine ?
It would be perfect as long as the needle valve can shut down the fuel flow all the way. Power would be similar to what the high performance 049s produce although at lower RPM. The 1/2A combat models use a pressurized fuel tank made from thin walled surgical tubing to give steady uninterrupted fuel flow. Take the time to look up bladder tanks on the web (basicly a high pressure balloon made from surgical tubing) and look for the couple of videos online that show how a bladder tank works. Again you could get some really good help from the yahoo groups. Bob
Posted on: 6/18/2009 11:12 PM by Author "icerinkdad" in the forum "Control Lines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8863750

RE: 1/2A Combat engine ?
The guys who are very serious about 1/2A combat (that sounds so weird...) use Eastern European made engines call Cyclon and Flora that are $200+ each. Those that just want to have fun use a variety of other engines including VA's (I think no longer in production), Norvel (I know no longer in production) and a few have tried the Brodak 049 with an aftermarket head that uses a Nelson glow plug. The aftermarket head is sold by a guy named Doug Galbreth (sp?) and improves the RPM on the Brodak engine by 1,500. If you just want to get a feel for current 1/2A combat buy a Brodak Gladiator almost ready to fly 1/2A combat plane (I am fairly sure they are on their website but not in the catalog yet) the aluminum motor mounts and a Brodak 049. Without the aftermarket head the Brodak may not even have the power of a TD but you can break in the engine with the stock head and get a feeling for how the plane flys. There are better built ready to fly combat models but they are a bit harder to track down. Join the combat groups on Yahoo and just ask questions. Bob
Posted on: 6/18/2009 7:40 PM by Author "icerinkdad" in the forum "Control Lines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8863176