RE: looking for another STR4 Pro II
I have one if you are still interested. I have been afraid to run this chassis for fear of breaking something and having a problem replacing a part, so it has been sitting in my closet for awhile.
Posted on: 10/30/2010 8:54 PM by Author "imjonah" in the forum "Academy Racing (MRC) Support Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10105304

RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C.
Getting ready to take my E-bay Evader to the track for first time On my on-road car; when I turn the spur (pinion not installed) the wheels turn very smoothly with the belt drive system producing very little drag. When I do this on my evader; I can definitely feel more drag almost like the transmission is full of some heavy oil or grease. I am not familiar with off-road transmissions or gear drives, only belt driven ball diffs, so I am not sure what they should feel like. the only adjustment I made back there, is to do like the manual says, tighten the slipper all the way and then loosen it two turns. any guidance would be appreciated, at some point I will have to tear the transmission/diff apart but right now I would like to avoid that.
Posted on: 6/27/2010 11:58 AM by Author "imjonah" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9829705

RE: xxx-s setup for asphalt
there are at least a dozen setup sheets on the team Losi site. If you go to www.rctech.net there is a huge xxx-s thread with every question you ever had about the xxx-s covered.
Posted on: 4/6/2009 12:44 AM by Author "imjonah" in the forum "RC Electric On-Road vehicles, race cars and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8652996

RE: Single shaft vs split shaft/slipper 1/18th-Vendetta/RC18 vs MLST/Half 8
I am still confused. The two primary differences in the 1/18th class are 1. the larger 1/16 the scale with the 380 size motors (Vendetta, mini-inferno) and the smaller 1/18th like the Associated RC18B,T,MT,R with the smaller 280 size motors. and center diff vs single shaft drive I would think the latter should really make a significant difference, which would show up in the results of races. Is their a real world advantage to a center diff or is it theoretical? In other words if you upgraded the mini-inferno with more rugged parts and then raced it against a Vendetta with the same motor, tires and battery which car would be superior? would the type of track matter? Would a similar MLST beat them both?
Posted on: 8/18/2008 1:44 PM by Author "imjonah" in the forum "1/16th, 1/18th, Mini & Micro RC Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7859182

Single shaft vs split shaft/slipper 1/18th-Vendetta/RC18 vs MLST/Half 8
Most of the 1/18th buggys and Monster trucks like the Duratrax Vendetta and the Associated RC18/b/t/mt/r (Xray M18T also) have a single drive shaft. The used Losi MLST I just bought on E-bay and the Kyosho mini inferno both have a center diff/slipper clutch and two short shafts one for the front and one for the back wheels. I know slippers are standard on all 1/10 scale off road vehicles; I believe that it relieves stress/shock on the drive train when landing after a jump. Is their a real not just theoretical advantage to the 2 shaft slipper combo over the single shaft? One of the tracks I will be using is a smaller dirt track designed for 1/18th and not 1/10th (thus smaller jumps). I am also interested in running 1/18th scale on both parking lot and carpet road course with no jumps. My Vendetta ST after I lowered its ride height and ran 1/10 scale tires seamed to do great on the road course. I noticed that the Losi MLST came in ahead of the Vendettas in the last national championship race. I am not sure if that was driver, two motors vs 1 motor or how modified the drive train of the MLST was. Any insight or real world experience would help.
Posted on: 8/15/2008 6:30 PM by Author "imjonah" in the forum "1/16th, 1/18th, Mini & Micro RC Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7849989

Brand name 4wd RTR mini for under 60 bucks!
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/19664 Sorry, I know no commerical posts but I found this sort of remarkable. Over the last 6 months I been seeing some very good deals on these Kyosho Mini-inferno half-eight RTR packages in the area $70-$80 . Might want to read some of the comments her and on www.one18th.com They have received mixed reviews.
Posted on: 3/21/2008 10:13 PM by Author "imjonah" in the forum "1/16th, 1/18th, Mini & Micro RC Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7262689

RE: OFFICIAL VENDETTA THREAD!!!!!!!!!
"what do u want to do with it,,,, look at it,,, or just run it in a straight line " I want to race it on large asphalt (parking lot) road course.
Posted on: 3/6/2008 9:43 PM by Author "imjonah" in the forum "1/16th, 1/18th, Mini & Micro RC Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7187315

RE: OFFICIAL VENDETTA THREAD!!!!!!!!!
First, thanks to everyone who has posted all the great Vendetta information here, it has been very very helpful to me and I am sure to others. I have a Vendetta ST. My goal is to race it on a large asphalt parking lot track (surface is a bit rough in places they do put down sugar water) designed for 1/10 TC 100-120 ft main staight, 10ft lanes. So far I have bought anti-sway bars front and rear, lowered the ride height with spacers inside the shocks and replaced the wheels and tires with TC foam tires. I was able to do a some testing at the ends of the outdoor season and the high speed cornering seamed very good. I had horrible time with wheels coming off and recently did a conversion so I can use a nut to hold the wheel on. My question concerns the advice and reccomendations have given here concerning getting Durtrax steel cvds all the way around $60+, Durtrax Ball diffs $50+ and a 380 size brushless motor (vs the mamba I already have-another $60+ for me) When people make these reccomendations are they thinking primarily in terms of off road, and off road run on tracks with jumps designed for 1/10, and the stress from going over artificial jumps put down on carpet or asphalt road courses. If the Vendetta ST is not jumping or running in the dirt are all the above mods required?
Posted on: 3/6/2008 6:31 PM by Author "imjonah" in the forum "1/16th, 1/18th, Mini & Micro RC Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7186194

RE: MAMBA Brushless Motor Thread!
The jerking and not starting from a dead stop is cogging. It is a major problem with the Mamba particularly with the Vendetta. I had the next kv lower than you and my Vendetta was un-drivable. I now have the 5400 and it is better but it is still not smooth from a dead stop, I am kind of dispointed. I will keep the ESC get a bigger brushless motor and probably use the mamba motor in my M18. If you contact Castle Creations they will tell you to get a more powerful battery and use a better connector to the battery (Deans full size) but the bottom line until some ones proves otherwise the mamb doen't seem to cut it with the Vendetta.
Posted on: 9/26/2007 5:49 PM by Author "imjonah" in the forum "1/16th, 1/18th, Mini & Micro RC Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6417542

RE: STR4 Pro 2 being discontinued ??
WHY? You dropping out of 1/10 TC ? Have a new car coming out?
Posted on: 8/5/2007 11:14 PM by Author "imjonah" in the forum "Academy Racing (MRC) Support Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6201165

RE: anyone in colorado?
Check out my site www.zoomrc.com There is a nitro on road race club in the springs. The race 1/10 touring and 1/8th all the info is on my site.
Posted on: 11/26/2006 11:13 PM by Author "imjonah" in the forum "RC Regional Racers & Bashers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5043188

RE: A123Racing Battery Questions
Question 1 [quote]Hello Lee Jay, We do currently sell our loose cells on our website (www.a123racing.com) you can get four of them for $66. you can also get the balancing wires for these cells to allow you to create custom 2S and 3S packs that can still be used with our charger"[/quote] 4 for $66 = $16.50 each I beleive. Your sale price for the same thing with balacing wires and deans plug is $49. Assuming most RC car people will be buying a pair that is $33 vs $100. It seams like a pretty wide gap here in price. For around $40 for a pack that is equivalent in voltage and mah to a NIMH subC pack it would be pointless to tear one of those DeWalt packs apart, for $100 a pack it becomes a viabnle option. Question 2 I am still uncertain about your answer to using other chargers besides the one you offer. Let me phrase the question a bit differently, If I am willing to monitor the charging process carefully watching the relevent variables can I use other chargers. For example contrary to what most people say you can use and decent NICAD charger to charge NIMH cells, as ling as you use a digital voltmeter and thermometer.
Posted on: 11/24/2006 1:08 PM by Author "imjonah" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5033845

RE: COLORADO Anyone?????
COLORADO RC CAR RACE PROGRAMS 2004 HobbyTown USA Lakewood (303)716-0312 Sunday Parking Lot – Electronic Timing Market Square Shopping Center 12039 W. Alameda Parkway, Suite Z Lakewood, CO 80228 HobbyTown USA - Westminster, CO. (303)431-0482 Sunday Parking Lot – Electronic Timing 9120 Wadsworth Blvd Indoor Carpet Weds TC Westminster, CO 80021 HobbyTown USA - Longmont, CO. (303)774-1557 Sunday Parking Lot 800 South Hover Road Suite 27 Longmont, CO 80501 HobbyTown USA - Fort Collins, CO. (970)226-3900 Sunday Parking Lot – Electronic Timing 4348 South College Ave Fort Collins, CO 80525 MHOR RC(303) 343-0151 See www.mhorrc.com for schedule 15540 E. Batavia Dr. Aurora, CO 80011 Out door permanent asphalt track(Gas and Elec), Indoor off Road (Elec) RAT Raceway303-295-RACE Off Road 3600 Blake Street Denver, CO 80205 contact Ross Gregory http://www.ratraceway.com MarCar Citadel Mall Parking Lot robert@marcar.org Check www.marcar.org Colorado Springs, CO Primarily Gas
Posted on: 8/3/2004 1:18 PM by Author "imjonah" in the forum "RC Regional Racers & Bashers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2050093

RE: COLORADO Anyone?????
Longmont. I only been racing Electric TC, 4 months. I have been to Fort Collins,Westminster (indoor and out door), Longmont HobbyTown, MHORC.Longmont Wheels n Wings, races each a couple times.
Posted on: 7/29/2004 6:04 PM by Author "imjonah" in the forum "RC Regional Racers & Bashers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2035761

ROAR legal bodies
Will all Roar legal lexan bodies have a number of some sort near the front edge of the windshield. I have a Losi Straus (fear) body that came with an XXX-S kit, it has no number on it. I have another Stratus body I bought already painted and it has a little number near the corner of the windshield. I am thinking of competing in a regional ROAR event will I need to have a body with a number in the place called for by the rules?
Posted on: 6/24/2004 4:04 PM by Author "imjonah" in the forum "RC Painting, Detailing & Bodies"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1932149

When practicing How to avoid burning up motor?
I now have 3 3000NimH battery packs. This will allow me to practice for 10- 12 minutes, switch batterys and keep going. I am worried about burning up my stock motors I have a P2K and a Monster. In the past there was a lot of down time between runs to let the motor cool. I am wondering if I can just keep swaping batteries and practice for a couple hours straight or am I going to burn these motors out.
Posted on: 5/17/2004 10:22 PM by Author "imjonah" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1823645

RE: MY first time installing ESC and Motor on XXXS
Well everything went Ok. I actually was able to run the car around a big parking lot. I only had one problem during the install. The cheap crap Weller pencil solder iron was only hot enough to melt the solder but when I pressed it against the wire end and the lug on the motor so they would would melt the solder nothing happened. Minor problem was that parking had a dip in it and the car bottomed out. It rides so low that it reall needs a perfectly flat surface it seams. My big question/concern now is that the pinion and spur do not seem perfectly aligned. I used your trick with the paper(thanks) and I think I have the mesh set right. When I look carefully at the spur and the pinion they seem slightly tilted relative to each other. I guess I could use some washers as shims (on the motor mount) and change slightly the alighnment of the pinion to better match that of the spur. Is this really necessary and would there be an easier way? This may be a little technical and I guess I can try Losi for an answer. Thanks in advance.
Posted on: 10/6/2003 1:12 PM by Author "imjonah" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1183947

MY first time installing ESC and Motor on XXXS
Well today’s the big day I finally have all the parts ready to do get the used Losi XXX-S I bought on EBAY up and running. [Some of these tasks seem pretty easy while others, while not very difficult, I worry I may be missing something or inadvertently screwing something up] I would appreciate any information on gotchas or things a new person most likely will over look when first setting up a car. I have to 1. install a pinion on a stock motor. I am assuming I can kind of eyeball where pinion should be positioned on motor shaft. 2. install a stock motor (P2K pro) I guess the spur gear should mesh with pinion at center of pinion and they should mesh fairly tight. Is there a way of determining just how tight? Should I put a drop of oil on pinion? The pinion I ordered is made of metal the spur gear looks like it is made of plastic, is that a problem? 3. install a ESC (duratrax intellispeed 16 t) 4. solder 2 capacitors to the motor. 5. connect ESC to battery pack and motor This is the one that’s got me worried I believe the ESC will come with a plug which will fit the plug on the battery. I will need to solder the wires on the ESC to the positive and negative poles of the motor. I have seen diagrams which show you having to make a T and run a wire to the positive terminal of the battery also. 6. program ESC I guess most of this now auto-program 7. plug esc and servo into receiver socket 1= servo, socket 2=throttle(esc), socket 3 battery power(esc) 8. adjust transmitter…. just follow instructions in manual 9. install body posts through holes in body, clips to hold on. Antenna through body. I read in one place that I could run the foam tires on both ocite carpet track and on asphalt. I intend to test car and practice on a parking lot which seems fairly smooth. While the only nearby race course is entirely ocite carpet. I was worried that the asphalt was real abrasive and would chew up a foam tire.
Posted on: 10/2/2003 1:29 PM by Author "imjonah" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1176441

RE: First Car keep 9 turn motor or go Stock?
Yes, I thought about getting an ESC that could handle the 9 turn motor. Not sure if I want to spend the extra $30 - $40. When I saw the XXXS RTR version for $270, I thought taht was way to much to spend. I paid $121 with shipping for the Car, motor, receiver, servo, and radio transmitter. If I buy an ESC for $50 and a stock motor for $30. A charger for $30 and a couple of batteries for $15 each. I am up to $260 for a used car. Not a real smart move on my part.
Posted on: 9/25/2003 1:21 PM by Author "imjonah" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1161070

First Car keep 9 turn motor or go Stock?
I just bought and Losi XXXS ON touring car. It did not come with and ESC but did come with a 9 turn racing motor. The only place near by which holds regular road course races has a pretty decent sized indoor ozite carpet trrack. When I asked the track manager what classes of 1/10 they raced he said stock only. I asked him why not modified engines like my 9 turn motor and he said that if people tried to race cars with those engines all they would do is smash up their cars. From waht I have been reading it seems my best course is to pull the 9 turn motor buy a stock motor for $30 and a $40-50 ESC (example, Novak Explorer II) since I have never operated a quality RC Car before I could learn on something not so fast. Is this a wise move? Thanks in advance for your advice.
Posted on: 9/25/2003 12:40 PM by Author "imjonah" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1160988

RC10-T3 differences RC10-T ?
I know the RC-10T is much older (10 yrs?) I have a chance to pickup a used RC10-T (full ball bearings, green composite Associated shocks, it has universals, electronic speed control) relatively cheap. I want something to learn on without investing a fortune. I was just wondering how different the basic car is between the old model and the current model.
Posted on: 9/13/2003 10:55 PM by Author "imjonah" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1135096