RE: ESM STUKA CG
I recall balancing mine around 115mm.
Posted on: 5/23/2013 11:38 AM by Author "irocbsa" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11520387

RE: EVO10GX MODS
[quote]ORIGINAL: AA5BY My pudding has not had any dieing problems and idles fine [/quote] Now don't go and drag pudding into this. [:D]
Posted on: 5/22/2013 8:20 PM by Author "irocbsa" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11519842

RE: Did you dull your shinny covering
Scuff the covering with some 000 steel wool first and then a scotch brite pad before you spray it.
Posted on: 5/22/2013 8:16 PM by Author "irocbsa" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11519841

RE: Electric Retracts for .60 Size Corsair?
I should also mention that if you want to use the supplied oleos, you will have to open up the area where the old wire strut passed through the spar. Reinforcing the spar after doing all of this is probably a good idea.
Posted on: 5/21/2013 10:44 AM by Author "irocbsa" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11518332

RE: Electric Retracts for .60 Size Corsair?
I received the FMS gear last night. Overall, I have to say that I am impressed with the physical construction for the $70 price tag. The gear comes with nice struts equipped with torq links and 4" wheels that look quite scale. Too bad they won't fit in the wheel wells of the Top Flite plane without cutting out the old well. Maybe I'll do that in the future, but for now I'll just use a set of 3.5" wheels I have laying around. The gear are definitely not drop in, but the work required to use them isn't too terrible. The body of the gear is significantly longer than E-Flites or other similarly sized gear. Maybe this will translate to more robustness, only time will tell. Since the gear case is so much longer (they take up the entire length of the pocket in the wing), you will have to trim the balsa wing sheeting all the way to the leading edge and then lightly sand a portion of the leading edge and the main spar for clearance. You will also have to add a hardwood rail on top of the existing rails to keep the front of the gear case from punching through the sheeting on the top of the wing. This is the biggest drawback to this set of gear since the wheel will now stick up out of the wheel well by about 1/4". It's not the end of the world, but the scale nuts won't be happy with it. If I get a chance I'll post up some pictures tonight.
Posted on: 5/21/2013 5:07 AM by Author "irocbsa" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11518016

RE: Electric Retracts for .60 Size Corsair?
I have the TF 60 sized Corsair, and I got a tip from someone here on the forums to use the retracts from the 1700mm FMS Corsair. They should arrive at my house today. I'll post up as to how well they work and if they are robust enough.
Posted on: 5/20/2013 12:32 PM by Author "irocbsa" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11517368

RE: Nose Art & Squadron Insignia / P-47
Here's an example of that. I did my TF P-47 in a scheme that you could have easily seen in the war but is of my own creation. Well, kinda. I stole the name and nose art from my alma mater. :) Do what makes you happy.
Posted on: 5/17/2013 5:31 AM by Author "irocbsa" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11514037

RE: DLE 170 On board starter
I don't mind that it's a brushed motor. It's used very intermittently, so I don't think it really matters how efficient it is. It helps keep the cost down too. The motor is a very common Johnson 550 that you can buy for $8 if it ever lets the smoke out. [:D]
Posted on: 5/15/2013 7:31 PM by Author "irocbsa" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11512720

RE: 60" corsair?
Almost 10 years! I think we have a record for dead post resurrection. [:D]
Posted on: 9/7/2012 9:08 PM by Author "irocbsa" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11221417

RE: CMP BF109F BUILDING THREAD
Double post. Sorry. :)
Posted on: 9/7/2012 8:36 PM by Author "irocbsa" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11221395

RE: CMP BF109F BUILDING THREAD
I do the same to hold on my exhaust stacks. Get rare earths at Michaels, Joanns, or a similiar craft store.
Posted on: 9/7/2012 8:35 PM by Author "irocbsa" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11221393

RE: Nitro proof paint
I think it is a common misconception that Rustoleum is nitro proof. In it's modern form it definitely is not, at least not to 15% nitro fuel which is what a lot of us use. From what I understand, in it's heyday Rustoleum was quite fuel proof but then Big Brother madated the elimination of most of the VOCs that were in spray paint so now it is just as un-nitro-proof as the rest of the off the shelf brands. I have small drops of 15% nitro on spinners that I have painted with Rustoleum and the paint bubbled in seconds. Top Flite Lustrekote is nitro proof to about 20%, but it stinks to high heaven so for your lungs' sake only use it outside. I typically use clear satin finish Minwax spray polyuretane to nitro proof any paint job that I do. Holds up quite well.
Posted on: 9/7/2012 8:30 PM by Author "irocbsa" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11221389

RE: ESM electric retracts?
According to TBM, the G3s should be here in the states in 4-5 weeks. I am going to pick up a set as soon as they arrive.
Posted on: 8/31/2012 8:47 AM by Author "irocbsa" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11212607

RE: H9-F6F Hellcat 60 ARF
Guys, please be wary when ordering those retracts. As da Rock knows, I've been on the same quest as he has to find reliable electric retracts that I don't have to remortgage my house to buy. I've wasted my money multiple times, and my first painful foray in the world of the rip off was the set that is being mentioned above. They are technically "RC Lander" gear but the are sold under multiple names with the same crappy results. They may be labeled as "all metal" to imply stength, but they are far from it. I went through three replacements due to the motors freezing midway through the travel, case fractures on smooth landings, and circuit board failures. They are completely incapable of consistently lifting even the lightest of tires and struts that I could find. I finally gave up. Even if you do get a set that works for more than 10 cycles, the slop in the gear is so horrendous that you will have a helluva time getting down the runway. I too thought that the price point and "all metal" construction couldn't be beat and go lured into buying a set. Please don't make the same mistake. Unfortunately, there is still a huge void in the market while we wait for [i]someone[/i] to come out with an affordable and reliable set of rotating electric retracts.
Posted on: 8/30/2012 11:59 AM by Author "irocbsa" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11211718

RE: Spark plug thread insert - Use sealant?
Thanks for the responses. I'll put a dab of loctite on the insert.
Posted on: 8/29/2012 12:57 PM by Author "irocbsa" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11210556

Spark plug thread insert - Use sealant?
I foolishly stripped out the plug thread on my PTE36 when I loosened and tightened the plug while the engine was hot. Doh! Lesson learned. I went ahead and paid the astronomical price for the M10 X 1.0 heli coil kit since I have some Super Tiger engines that I am going to convert to gas and I want to use a CM-6 plug instead of the tiny 1/4 - 32 plugs. My question is, should I use some sort of sealant like red silicone when I screw in the heli-coil or will it do a good enough job on it's own?
Posted on: 8/28/2012 9:54 AM by Author "irocbsa" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11209092

RE: Moki 1.80 & 2.10 conversion to gas
One of the benefits that I've found to converting the big glow engines is that I now have a big displacement engine that has beam mounts. My converted Super Tigre G-3250 was a cinch to swap into my Hellcat since it already had an engine mount that accomodated beam mount engines. I hate setting up standoffs, but that's just me. Plus, the big Tigre has sick power. It swings a 20 X 8 at 7800 RPM which is more than my DLE 30 will do. I got the engine at a swap meet for $50. With the cost of the conversion I have $200 in it. I found an ST S3000 at a swap meet later that year for $30. The big glow engines are going for pennies on the dollar these days and if you can get one for a song like I did, the conversions are worth it.
Posted on: 8/26/2012 6:07 PM by Author "irocbsa" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11206979

RE: Schumacher Raptor conversion PLS HELP
A 5 cc engine is awfully small to be converting it to gas. I don't know if anyone has ever done that before. I know that NGH makes a 9cc gasser for airplanes. Maybe you could adapt their carburetor and ignition to your engine?
Posted on: 8/23/2012 5:20 AM by Author "irocbsa" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11203121

RE: Testors Dullcote
Yes, I weather every one of my warbirds, somemore than others. There is a big 30+ page thread on this forum about weathering techniques. You should be able to find it with a search. Try searching on "For that in-service look".
Posted on: 8/17/2012 4:50 AM by Author "irocbsa" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11196623

RE: Testors Dullcote
My humble opinion would be to do all of your weathering techniques first (panel line chips and dust, worn paint, exhaust stains, etc) then spray over it with Top Flite Lustrecoat flat clear, or better yet, Minwax Satin Polyurethane in the spray can. Both are very fuel proof but the Lustrecoat stinks to high heaven, so be aware of that. If you are just looking to flatten out the overly glossy finish of the Hnangar 9 birds, before you spray it with flat clear, rub the covering with 000 steel wool. This will knock some of the gloss off the finish and give you a better look.
Posted on: 8/16/2012 6:24 PM by Author "irocbsa" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11196302

RE: Proper underbelly color of Bf-109s
Thanks guys. I agree. My Stuka in winter camo just disappears on a hazy or overcast day. I'll post some pics of my progress as I assemble the plane. Base paint is finished!
Posted on: 8/12/2012 8:59 AM by Author "irocbsa" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11190376

RE: Proper underbelly color of Bf-109s
Very cool discussion guys. I'm learning a lot. :) Thanks for everyone for keeping the debate spirited but civil. All too often on this forum we miss out on great information because all interested parties pick up their toys and leave the sandbox because someone got obnoxious. Keep the info coming. So, as far as what I'm doing with the model, I'm leaving the undersides in the stock CMP color. Since I'm not competing at Top Gun, their color is "close enough". I'm doing a scheme very similar to "White 2".
Posted on: 8/11/2012 8:31 PM by Author "irocbsa" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11189933

RE: Proper underbelly color of Bf-109s
Lots of good info here. While I am an absolutist in many other areas of my life, I think that there are many relevant opinons on the various "shades of grey". We sll see colors slightly different after all. Think about it, how often have you had a debate with your wife as to whether something was pink or orange? Salmon perhaps... [:D] The Wehrmacht and Luftwaffe tints seem to be incredibly difficult for the human eye to consistently interpret. There seems to be something about the color blends they used that creates a very wide spectrum of subjective interpretation. For instance, when I look at Feldgrau, I mostly see green. The only time it appears at all grey to me is in very low light conditions. However, two of my buddies think I'm crazy and they see mostly grey with a very slight green tint. There are certainly reasonable limits of intelligent interpretation, and we can all laugh at the people that fall outside of those limits and get it incredibly wrong. On the other hand, I've stopped worrying about getting 100% consensus on reproducing a color. It will never happen. :)
Posted on: 8/10/2012 8:48 PM by Author "irocbsa" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11188940

RE: SaeFury
Awesome build! Can't wait to see the finished product.
Posted on: 8/10/2012 8:16 AM by Author "irocbsa" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11188143

RE: Proper underbelly color of Bf-109s
Thanks for the info guys! I will go with RLM 76.
Posted on: 8/5/2012 1:53 PM by Author "irocbsa" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11181899

Proper underbelly color of Bf-109s
Hi guys, looking for little information about the camo schemes on Bf-109s. I'm building my second CMP Bf-109F right now and I'm respraying the entire plane. The provided color scheme borders on silly and I just don't like it on the first plane I did. I'm curious about the color on the underside of the full scale planes. On the early 109s, it's clear to me that RLM Hellblau was used on the underside of the planes. However, on the later 109s, it looks like one of the RLM greys was used on the underside of a number of aircraft. I jsut can't tell from the images that I have. Can someone clear this up for me? I'd like to finish up this spray job. :)
Posted on: 8/5/2012 1:13 PM by Author "irocbsa" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11181859

RE: OS BGX-1 Glow to Gas Conversion (Yeah!) Thanks Max
First off, DO NOT run less than 16:1 gas/oil ratio. Ask me how I found out the hard way.... Instructions (with pictures!) are on the first page of this thread.
Posted on: 8/2/2012 12:43 PM by Author "irocbsa" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11178747

RE: Hobby Lobby B-17
Very nice, love the weathering. Let us know how it flies. I've been thinking about picking one of these up.
Posted on: 8/2/2012 11:58 AM by Author "irocbsa" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11178684

RE: PTE 36: Use Single Bolt Prop Adapter from DLE 30?
Thanks Barry!
Posted on: 7/23/2012 5:12 AM by Author "irocbsa" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11165501

RE: PTE 36: Use Single Bolt Prop Adapter from DLE 30?
I just ordered an adapter from Valley View. I don't see why this won't work since the bolt pattern is the same. I'll install it and report back.
Posted on: 7/21/2012 11:11 AM by Author "irocbsa" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11163607