RE: A123 Question
Luchnia - Pardon a rookie for "chiming in" - you didn't specify the plane, servos or flight times in your comment about low energy consumption. For example, I'm using a 2300 mah A123 battery in a 5 lb 11 oz U Can Do with Futaba S3152 digital servos (89 oz/in torque) that I fly aggressively - 8 minute flights. My average consumption is about 95 ma per flight. My 8 lb 10 oz Venus pattern plane equipped with the same battery and servos uses about 120 ma per 8-minute flight practicing the Sportsman pattern (very unaggressive flying). Can you use these examples for a comparison? Jack
Posted on: 8/24/2012 5:42 PM by Author "jackalope54" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11204936

RE: A123 Question
RCP57 - I couldn't agree more with BarracudaHockey. I switched to A123 packs (from Nimh) in February of this year - 2300 mah packs from Radical RC. No regulators on my Futaba 2.4 ghz receivers - 5 S3152 digital Futaba servos (87 oz/in) and 1 analog servo in each plane. Being new to this chemistry, I flew once and recharged (at 1C) at the field - found I only used about 120 ma. This consumption has remained fairly consistent. I have since installed a Hyperion 2100 mah LiFe battery in my Futaba 10C radio (huge upgrade from the 700 mah NiCads it came with) and am completely sold on this application as well. Best thing since sliced bread. :) Jack
Posted on: 8/21/2012 6:06 AM by Author "jackalope54" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11200722

RE: LiPo rookie
I take it the charger should cut off when cell voltage reaches 4.2 V. I'm at the field now - will get a new balance board this week and recharge. The battery seems to be functioning properly ... so far. If I find the charger continues to overcharge this battery ONLY, I assume the battery should be disposed of. If necessary, how should the battery be disposed of? Thanks, Jack
Posted on: 8/19/2012 9:43 AM by Author "jackalope54" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11198671

RE: LiPo rookie
Thanks KW Counter for the advice and reassurance. I'm going to modify a balance lead extension so I can check individual cell voltages with a multimeter - my probes are too big to insert into a balance plug and I don't think I want to risk shorting across any of those pins. :) Jack
Posted on: 8/19/2012 7:22 AM by Author "jackalope54" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11198576

RE: LiPo rookie
Problem solved - sort of. Trax de Max - you were on the right track. It is charger related - I just took the back off the balance board that came with my Onyx 235 charger and found a burned/open connection between the 3S connector and the 4S connector. I'm assuming these balance boards can be purchased separately? Thanks for your help!
Posted on: 8/19/2012 7:07 AM by Author "jackalope54" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11198563

RE: LiPo rookie
Trax de Max - per an analog multimeter, the pack voltage is over 16 V. Nonstoprc - the battery is a Zippy that has been charged about 10 times. I got it October 2011 and I generally charge it once per month. The most I recall it taking was about 1950 ma and has never been below 3.6 V per cell. I know it's a cheap battery with questionable quality - did I just get a bad pack? As for pack size (4S vs 3S), I based that on the recommendations of some of the guys I fly with who have similar setups (4S packs from Hobby King). They use theirs to start .40-sized pylon engines - I use mine to start 4-stroke engines up to a YS 1.15S. I'm going to use this starter today - if I still get the same error from the charger, how do I safely dispose of this battery? Thanks for your help!! Jack
Posted on: 8/19/2012 5:32 AM by Author "jackalope54" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11198510

LiPo rookie
Hi all - I'm new to LiPo batteries and have a concern. I'm using a 4S 3600 mah LiPo for my Hobbico glow engine starter. The battery is an inexpensive one from Hobby King. I noticed today the battery swelled at some point while at the field. I quit using it for the day and brought it home and charged it on my Onyx 235 at 1C. The battery seemed to charge without incident. When I first attached it to the charger, the balancer showed a range of 4.012 to 4.020 for the 4 cells. After charging (only required 785 ma), the cells ranged from 4.230 to 4.307. I disconnected the battery for a few minutes, then went back to let it balance. I'm now getting a Battery Voltage Error shortly after starting the charger. No problem with other LiPo batteries and the battery in question is driving my starter as usual. Question 1: Is the battery safe to use? Question 2: What are the typical causes for a "Battery Voltage Error" in a battery that seems to be functioning well? Excessive voltage, loss of a cell or ??? Thanks Jack
Posted on: 8/18/2012 6:39 PM by Author "jackalope54" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11198233

RE: YS 63 overly rich regulator
Hi Pete, I got the new regulator body, screw, plunger, spring, nipple, diaphragm and o-ring for the screw. And I finally have an engine that runs like a REAL YS. :) I compared the new regulator body with the old but could find no measurable differences with a caliper. I did notice less play around the plunger stem where it passes through the bore in the new regulator body. Perhaps that was allowing the nipple to hang open intermittently. I'm still using Cool Power 30% Heli fuel and now have a 13x6 APC prop - 1980-2040 rpm idle - 10800 rpm peak richened to 10200 rpm. Current settings: Regulator about 1 turn in from flush Low speed needle is a bit more than 3 turns open High speed needle is about 1 1/3 turns open Engine still smokes heavily with lots of oil in the exhaust - I'm wondering if the Cool Power 30% Low Smoke would be a good idea? Anyway, HUGE thanks for the advice on the regulator. Jack
Posted on: 8/17/2012 8:45 AM by Author "jackalope54" in the forum "YS Engines Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11196836

RE: YS 63 overly rich regulator
Well...not so successful after all. I got 3 good runs out of it then it started pouring fuel again. It's actually coming out of the carburetor and running along the intake tube. Has to be a sticking regulator as Pete suggested. This engine was purchased used and I'm not sure it has the correct regulator assembly or there is wear around the plunger and/or the plastic nipple. It has a new diaphragm, plunger, nipple and spring and I've verified several times there is no debris in the system. When I replaced the plunger, I noticed the new plunger has a much smaller diameter as compared to the old one and the regulator body was machined for the larger plunger. I've ordered a new regulator body and screw from Central Hobbies - I'll take some measurements from the new parts and compare. I hope the new parts solve the problem - this one has me stumped. Thanks Petec and Four Stroker. Jack
Posted on: 8/16/2012 6:58 AM by Author "jackalope54" in the forum "YS Engines Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11195631

RE: YS 63 overly rich regulator
Success! I replaced both valves and lapped them in using toothpaste. Engine is responding well - now just need to fine tune it. I'm running a 13x6 APC - max RPM about 10,800 - richened to about 9800 until piston and ring are seated. Huge thanks to my brother-in-law, Ben Galloway (pylon racer and all-around great guy), for suggesting the possible intake valve leakage.
Posted on: 8/14/2012 8:35 AM by Author "jackalope54" in the forum "YS Engines Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11193028

RE: YS 63 overly rich regulator
Hi Petec, I've replaced all the parts in the regulator, ie. the diaphragm, plunger, nipple and spring. I've come to believe it's not over-pressurizing but is an intake valve problem. When I disassembled the engine, I found carbon on the intake valve stem and on the backside of the valve - more carbon on the intake valve than on the exhaust valve possibly indicating the intake valve is not seating. I have access to a set of virtually brand new YS 70S valves and springs - they share the same part numbers as the 63 per Central Hobbies. I'm going to install them and see what happens. I guess I'm looking for confirmation that this makes sense. And I'm also looking for any other ideas for the cause of the symptoms my engine exhibits. As for the fuel forcing its way past the intake manifold o-ring at the head when the engine is NOT running, my guess is that is what happens when the regulator screw is bottomed out. Thanks
Posted on: 8/13/2012 8:44 AM by Author "jackalope54" in the forum "YS Engines Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11191588

RE: YS 63 overly rich regulator
If the intake valve is not seating properly, could the result be the described symptoms? If so, can anyone recommend a suitable compound for lapping the valves? Toothpaste, perhaps? Maybe I'm grasping at straws...
Posted on: 8/12/2012 4:32 PM by Author "jackalope54" in the forum "YS Engines Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11190789

YS 63 overly rich regulator
I purchased a used YS 63 (not the "S") that has me stumped. The regulator seems to be over pressurizing. Right after purchasing, I went through the engine and replaced all the o-rings and gaskets, replaced the front and rear bearings, replaced the diaphragm (eventually replaced the plunger and spring also - found it had the wrong plunger installed - the old plunger was approximately twice the diameter of the new plunger), verified the cam timing and adjusted the valves, replaced the piston and ring (the surface of the ring was very shiny), cleaned everything and put it together. I set the regulator to flush, the low speed needle to one turn open and the high speed needle to 2.5 turns open per the manual. It started easily but was putting raw fuel out of the exhaust - it was running too rich to set either needle. I closed the regulator in small increments til it is about 1.75 turns in from flush - can finally set the needles but it is still running VERY rich and is now pushing fuel out of the intake tube where it enters the head (this when the engine is NOT running). I suspect I've bottomed out the regulator - I just got home from the field and removed the diaphragm, spring and plunger and found the regulator screw only goes in a little more than 1.75 turns from flush before it bottoms out. Fuel is Cool Power 30% 12x6 APC prop Low speed needle 2.75 turns open - 1980 to 2010rpm idle but it loads up after 20-30 seconds High speed needle 1.5 turns open Transition is very slow - if it cleans out it turns about 10,700 rpm WOT - I backed it off to about 9800 rpm. It bogs badly in transition and has a very heavy smoke trail (looks like it has a smoke pump). Any ideas out there in YS land? Thanks, Jack
Posted on: 8/12/2012 2:30 PM by Author "jackalope54" in the forum "YS Engines Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11190622

RE: Pattern weight rule - why?
Okay - thanks Dave and MattK - your responses are in line with the little I have learned so far - the lighter the wing loading the better. Thought there might be something different with pattern planes given Alejandro's response. And I agree Dave - electrics (and ultimately consumers) pay a HUGE price requiring them to make weight with batteries (their fuel) while IC gets to weigh without fuel. By the way, I play a lot of golf so I'm fully aware of the foot-dragging a ruling body can show in updating rules but this rule (and its prejudicial application) seems one of those that requires immediate reconsideration. DLE 55 in a pattern plane??? Sounds like fun! Jack
Posted on: 8/25/2011 9:56 PM by Author "jackalope54" in the forum "RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10687667

RE: Pattern weight rule - why?
Thanks Alejandro - that makes some sense. I can see how a 6kg plane versus a 5kg plane could have an advantage in the wind. Thanks for the reply!
Posted on: 8/25/2011 7:45 PM by Author "jackalope54" in the forum "RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10687525

RE: Pattern weight rule - why?
Onewasp and jetmech43 - I'm aware that the FAI is the governing body for pattern and I know that all sports have rules. For the most part these rules serve to level the playing field. Motorsports have MINIMUM weight rules for this purpose (and to help control costs). But if I wanted to build a 6,000 lb NASCAR I would be allowed but I'm sure it would be too slow to qualify given the engine restrictions. I could also build a 20 lb 2X2m plane but it wouldn't fly worth beans. I can understand the size and noise restrictions - just don't know what a MAX weight rule accomplishes. Jack
Posted on: 8/25/2011 7:15 PM by Author "jackalope54" in the forum "RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10687489

Pattern weight rule - why?
Hi folks I'm new to pattern - flying a Venus with YS 110S. I'm curious as to why there is a max weight limit rule in Pattern? It would seem that given the 2x2m rule that excess weight would just degrade performance anyway... Any thoughts? Jack
Posted on: 8/25/2011 6:31 PM by Author "jackalope54" in the forum "RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10687426

RE: YS 110S won't prime
Thanks for the responses! Already tried setting the regulator screw flush - way too rich. Poor transition and excessive fuel consumption - literally 16 oz in less than 6 minutes flying - had to set the timer on my transmitter to 5 minutes to prevent dead stick. This is the "S" model - I remember Troy stating these usually required the regulator be adjusted 1/2 to 1 1/4 turn in from flush. Engine runs like a top at current settings with reasonable fuel consumption. I'm going to order a new plunger, spring and the plastic end for the plunger and see if that makes a difference. It's almost like the plunger is sticking or the spring is too stiff or is stretched. Will let you know how it turns out. Thanks again for the help.
Posted on: 8/17/2011 10:49 PM by Author "jackalope54" in the forum "YS Engines Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10675621

YS 110S won't prime
I bought a used 110S that I rebuilt - new gaskets, o-rings, regulator diaphragm, front and rear main bearings, new piston and ring and new cylinder assembly (piston and cylinder were scored). Running Byron 20/20 fuel (synthetic oil). Engine compression improved as the ring seated (have run about 1.5 gal), tank pressure is good and holds pressure for extended period, idle is 1800-1900 rpm, 15X6 APC prop turning about 9700, clean transition with regulator adjusted about 1/2 to 3/4 turn in from flush. Engine will NOT prime when cold or after a dead stick from running out of fuel (ran out of fuel when breaking it in a couple of times - was flying when it happened). Engine WILL prime if I richen the regulator to the point that the transition is very rich. Any thoughts? Also - regulator seems VERY sensitive - 1/16 turn richer from current setting is too rich - burbles, stumbles in transition and high end is very rich. Thanks in advance!
Posted on: 8/16/2011 7:34 PM by Author "jackalope54" in the forum "YS Engines Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10673804

RE: Linkage-induced differential
Thanks BAX!!! Took me a while to get there but I managed to learn something new about my transmitter's flexibility/capability and about aircraft setup. Another VERY satisfied Futaba user!!!
Posted on: 7/5/2011 12:36 PM by Author "jackalope54" in the forum "Futaba Radios Direct support forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10607181

RE: Futaba RATE vs. END POINT
Wow - I really am being clear as mud! Bjr - this whole exercise in frustration began because I was trying to get RID of mechanical differential. I didn't get the control horn clevises on the hinge lines. To fix it mechanically, I would have to remove the control horns, drill larger holes through the ailerons to allow angling the control horns enough to get the clevises on the hinge lines and either fill in around the control horn bolts with epoxy or glue in CF tubes of a size the bolts would fit through at the proper angle. Bob - I did make sure the distance from the aileron up the bolt to the clevis is the same on both ailerons. The 10C radio only allows high/low rates to be set on channels 1-4 - therefore the aileron on channel 1 "controls" the low rate setting - if there is ANY linkage geometry difference between the aileron on channel 1 and the aileron on the other channel it CANNOT be adjusted merely by setting different Low Rate values for the aileron NOT on channel 1. You just can't get there from here. :-) Bob - what APPEARS to be happening is RATE sets the maximum arc/travel of the servo. End points then seem to work within that RATE-limited arc. In other words, RATE seems to override End Point. As the Low Rate seems to be just a percentage of the End Point value on channel 1, the End Point values MUST be the same on both sides. Adjusting RATE values to give the maximum deflection needed allows me to set the End Points to the SAME values on both ailerons and remove the linkage-induced differential. The downside is I'm not using the full travel of the servo since I only need 18 degrees of deflection on High Rate. I have the control rod attached to the innermost hole on the servo horn - next step is getting taller/longer control horns. I'm assuming that the highest RATE values will give me the best resolution and the maximum torque. Anyway, thanks for your help!!
Posted on: 7/3/2011 7:48 AM by Author "jackalope54" in the forum "RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10603812

RE: Futaba RATE vs. END POINT
Sorry for the nomenclature confusion - was told the control horn that is just a long bolt that goes through the control surface was called a standup. I did use a deflection gauge to make sure I have equal movement in both directions on both HIGH and LOW rates and yes, the END POINTS are the same on both surfaces - by adjusting the RATE in the AILE-DIFF screen to the high rate deflection needed, I didn't have to change the end point values for either aileron. The RATE values ARE different for both ailerons. Trying to figure out what RATE actually does compared to End Point. In this application, seems like End Points are just a baseline for the Low Rates IF the low rates are just a percentage of the end point values. I know - I'm probably making this as clear as mud. Thanks
Posted on: 7/2/2011 11:38 PM by Author "jackalope54" in the forum "RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10603520

Futaba RATE vs. END POINT
Hi all. I'm pretty much a newbie to flying (advanced beginner) and am very interested in Pattern flying - VERY impressed with the control demonstrated by Pattern pilots and the quality of their aircraft. I bought a Venus II and installed standups on all control surfaces - my first plane so equipped. I could not get the aileron clevises over the hinge lines and 1 control rod is 2mm longer than the other (meaning there is a 2mm difference in the distance from the servo output shaft to the standup between the left and right ailerons). This obviously introduced a lot of differential. No problem on HIGH rate - just adjusted the End Points as needed. The problem showed itself when I tried to set the LOW rate - excessive differential. Being new, I attempted everything mechanical and electrical I could - offset the servo arms, changed the control arms, drank too much beer thinking about it, etc. - all to no avail. Asked in Futaba radio support forum but was unable to follow their solution (re Linkage-induced differential - oldest thread). My servos are on separate channels so I am using AILE-DIFF as the wing type. After speaking with a number of friends about it (looking for a transmitter programming solution but finding none), reading and rereading my manual (I have a 10C), I read the Futaba 14MZ online manual to see if that radio has a feature to program out differential. I found no procedure but noticed a statement about RATE that is used to correct linkage problems - no examples were given, however, for its use. I remembered seeing the word "RATE" in my manual in the AILE-DIFF section so thought I would explore this further - couldn't hurt at this point, right? I discovered what more-experienced Futaba users probably all know - that changing the RATEs in AILE-DIFF (or in FLAPERONS) can correct mechanical differential issues. I've never before paid attention to this screen as I've always been able to get control horns on the hinge lines. This adjustment has given me a new setup regimen that I would appreciate some comments about. 1. Start by setting Dual Rate switch to High Rate 2. Set subtrims to zero and end points to maximum in both directions 3. Center the servos achieving minimum Subtrim 4. Adjust RATE in AILE-DIFF or FLAPERONS screen (whichever you are using) to achieve required HIGH rate control surface deflection in both directions 5. Now set Low Rates - there should no longer be any differential This worked on my plane. I'm wondering now how RATE affects the servo, ie. do higher RATE values give better resolution or more torque or longer servo life, etc? Or none of the above? Any other comments concerning this regimen? And finally, what precisely does RATE do - how does it differ from End Point and are Dual Rates a percentage of the End Point values meaning that the left AND right aileron servos MUST have the same values to prevent differential? Thanks in advance for your help!!
Posted on: 7/2/2011 4:15 PM by Author "jackalope54" in the forum "RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10602827

Linkage-induced differential
I ran into a problem in setting up ailerons using standups instead of control horns - I couldn't get the clevises on the hinge line as they should be without rebuilding the ailerons. In addition, there is about a 2mm difference in the length of the control rods for the two ailerons. After attempting all manner of mechanical adjustments to get rid of the differential that was ONLY apparent when setting low rates and wracking my brain for several days for a solution short of rebuilding the ailerons or buying a new radio (I have a 10C), I found a radio programming answer that is not well documented in the manual. I read the 14MZ manual online and came across an instruction that there is a "RATE" adjustment for correcting linkage issues - no further information and no examples were given but reminded me of settings available in the FLAPERONS and AILE-DIFF screens on my radio. After playing with these I found a flexibility I did not know existed in my 10C. I had never adjusted the values in the FLAPERONS and AILE-DIFF screens before as I had never needed to. After playing with these, I have a new programming/setup regimen. 1. Set control surface subtrims to 0 2. Adjust control rods to give minimum subtrim 3. Set end points to maximum (140) in both directions 4. Make sure dual rate switch is in HIGH rate position 5. Go to AILE-DIFF or FLAPERONS (whichever you are using) and adjust the values for each aileron servo (shown on screen as AIL1 and AIL2 AIL1 is servo on channel 1 and AIL2 is the servo on channel 6 or 7) TO GIVE MAXIMUM THROW NEEDED FOR HIGH RATES. Measure as needed to get the control surface deflection required. 6. Set low rate(s) as needed - DIFFERENTIAL IS GONE! I'm obviously a rookie but this may help others like myself and make radio setup easier. Any thoughts BAX? Am I missing anything here? Do the RATE adjustments in AILE-DIFF and FLAPERONS affect servo resolution - meaning are higher RATE values better? Thanks
Posted on: 7/1/2011 1:32 PM by Author "jackalope54" in the forum "Futaba Radios Direct support forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10601709

RE: Downwind turn Myth
LOL Highhorse Well then to also be fair, THANKS to ALL for the illustrations and the math - cemented the concept in my tired old brain. Now it's time to go shoot some pelicans for dinner.
Posted on: 6/27/2011 8:40 PM by Author "jackalope54" in the forum "RC Jets"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10595603

RE: Downwind turn Myth
Thank you, Highhorse!!! As a new r/c flier I have made the mistake of confusing groundspeed with airspeed when flying downwind (decreased throttle then "felt my radio get hit with interference" when I attempted a turn LOL). I actually bought a new radio as I was absolutely sure I had done nothing wrong (saved the plane by the way through shear luck). You have made it clear to me that the plane actually stalled due to insufficient airspeed. THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU!!!
Posted on: 6/27/2011 8:02 PM by Author "jackalope54" in the forum "RC Jets"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10595555

RE: Linkage-induced differential
Thanks Bax - I follow what you are saying. I'm using standups for the control surfaces on this plane instead of control horns. I am unable to get the clevises on the aileron hinge lines which induces linkage differential. I assume my only option (short of changing to control horns) is to offset the servo arms to get equal aileron movement - there is no way to program out the differential with the 10C - correct?
Posted on: 6/9/2011 8:00 PM by Author "jackalope54" in the forum "Futaba Radios Direct support forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10565837

RE: Linkage-induced differential
Hi Bax. Setup using S3010 servos - servo arms parallel to hinge line - control rods 90 degrees to hinge line - 7/8" movement on high rates (endpoints channel one 87 in one direction and 140 in the other - channel six 140 in one direction and 91 in the other) - high rates 140% for both ailerons. Need 1/2" movement on low rates. 49% on one aileron and 48% on the other gives 1/2" movement on the up aileron but only 3/8" movement on the down aileron. Measurements are the same for both ailerons (1/2" up and 3/8" down). Is this just a case of repositioning the servo arm to something other than parallel to the hinge line (to offset the differential) or is there a way to program out the described differential with a 10C transmitter? Thanks for your help!
Posted on: 6/7/2011 9:48 AM by Author "jackalope54" in the forum "Futaba Radios Direct support forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10561422

Linkage-induced differential
Bax - thanks for the quick response and I follow what you said about adjusting endpoints (re: 10C vs 8FG dual rates), but as far as I can tell on my 10C the endpoints are independent of the dual rates. I set my endpoints for the maximum control surface needed at maximum dual rate then adjust dual rate for the smaller movement. It's the smaller movement where differential comes in. Does an S-Bus or synchronizer give me the flexibility to program out the low-rate differential? Thanks for your help!
Posted on: 6/6/2011 6:06 AM by Author "jackalope54" in the forum "Futaba Radios Direct support forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10559209

10C vs 8FG dual rates
 I have a 10C transmitter and found dual rates are limited to channels 1-4. Works great if control linkages are over the hinge lines (as they should be). Recently I found I could not get the standups I'm using exactly on the hinge lines which introduces differential. I found I can't program the differential out with D/R (aileron servos on separate channels). Does 8FG provide dual rates on all proportional channels? Is there another solution, eg synchronizer?
Posted on: 5/29/2011 8:18 AM by Author "jackalope54" in the forum "Futaba Radios Direct support forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10546378