RE: Virus Blocked
I am having the same problem. I cannot even get on the homepage with my avg computer. Please fix as soon as possible Here is a copy of the email AVG sent to me when I complained to them: Hi, This message is being sent to multiple addresses via BCC addressing... > URL: http://www.rcuniverse.com/ The detection is correct. If you are affiliated with this site, you need to check all pages for IFrame injections similar to the one seen at the URL above, that refers to URLs at one or other of: www.collegefun4u.com %77%77%77%2E%63%6F%6C%6C%65%67%65%66%75%6E%34%75%2E%63%6F%6D Further, you should have professional computer security specialists perform a full and thorough security audit of the site and the server(s) hosting it to ascertain how these illicit code injections were achieved. Rectifying all issues that such an audit uncovers will be necessary to prevent the site being similarly compromised again in the future. If you are NOT the site owner/admin, please pass this information to the people who run the site, as we have been providing users of this site this information for a while now, yet the site has not been cleaned up.
Posted on: 9/4/2012 10:50 AM by Author "jeffp51" in the forum "Forum questions or problems"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11217099

RE: Falke Biplane 60 build
Having trouble getting on to the site. my virus protection software is blocking the site from homeFrom work, no problem. anyone know how to solve the problem? update on the plane: I covered the rudder and the other wing strut, but work has put a real cramp into my building timethat and I helped my son put together his foamie nerf-trainer I never had anything like that to learn on.
Posted on: 9/4/2012 10:18 AM by Author "jeffp51" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11217050

RE: Falke Biplane 60 build
Covering continues slowly. I started on the wing struts, but ran into trouble because they are plywood and have a lot of compound concave curves on it. The covering did not want to stick to the edges at all. I had to rip off my first attempt and start over by covering the edges first and then the sides. The final result is adequate, if not particularly remarkable. Some people just seem to have a talent for covering, and the rest of us just muddle through the best we can. I would like to sit and watch someone cover who is really really good some day. The pilot is also now installed in the cockpit. I found the bear at a garage sale. He is old and ratty, and has lots of character. He also now has a wooden stick up his neck. My son enjoyed watching me cut his legs off. The cockpit lining is split fuel tubing. If I can find a workable material, I may also add some leather stitching to hold it on.
Posted on: 8/20/2012 7:31 PM by Author "jeffp51" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11200367

RE: Falke Biplane 60 build
Here we see the mounting of the top wing center section and the cabane struts. I borrowed an incidence meter for this one. Normally I am good with leveling the fuse and measuring the LE and TE of the wing to get it right, but aligning the top and bottom wings with 1 degree of decalage wasn't possible without a meter. Everything is glued in with epoxy and held with clamps until it sets. I also chose to cover the underside of the top wing center before attaching it, since it would be hard to do afterward. It feels good to start the covering process, and have some color on the plane. I like the contrast of the dark blue and the yellow.
Posted on: 8/11/2012 9:01 PM by Author "jeffp51" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11189952

RE: thinning out kits, which one would you sell?
I would keep the Jenny, since it is your favorite plane. It is one of my favorites toofirst balsa and tissue (peanut scale) plane I ever built. It even flew!! Seems to still be some value out there for Royal kits. Try selling that one and see what you get out of it.
Posted on: 7/26/2012 4:30 PM by Author "jeffp51" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11170487

RE: alternative servo source?
that is kind of what I thought. I will check out the hitec servos.
Posted on: 7/25/2012 9:45 PM by Author "jeffp51" in the forum "RC Radios, Transmitters, Receivers, Servos, gyros"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11169623

RE: Falke Biplane 60 build
On the tail you can also see the fairings over the fin and stab. They are also hollowed out behind to reduce weight. the bottom of the lower wing has also received a fairing to blend it in with the belly of the fuse.
Posted on: 7/24/2012 6:58 PM by Author "jeffp51" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11168015

RE: Falke Biplane 60 build
More pictures. I have finished the cowl. It is a clamshell style, split horizontally, with both sides removable so that I can access the engine. I use the masking tape to protect the parts I don't want to sand down. I really hope balsa dust is not carcinogenic. On the advice of my oldest son, I also sheeted the rear turtle deck. It is only 1/32" thick, so it will be delicate, but the 1/8 balsa longerons were also really soft, so it won't be any worse.
Posted on: 7/24/2012 6:56 PM by Author "jeffp51" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11168012

alternative servo source?
I am scratch building a 60-sized biplane with a dry weight of about 7 lbs and a K&B .65 sportster engine. That means the speed will be in the vicinity of 50 mph on straight and level flight. I need to get 5 new servos for it. The elevator may be slightly oversized for this size model, and I have considered using a metal gear/higher torque servo on it. In the past I have used standard sized futaba or hobbico servos in my sport models. Has anyone had experience with servos from Hobby King or Value Hobby or similar sights? I need a reliable but affordable servo and I want to get the best bang for my buck. I can go for brand name stuff from Tower, but if someone can suggest another source that can be trusted I would love to hear it. My experience with hobbyking so far is that quality depends entirely on what you are buying. some things I have bought from them have been exellent. Others, not so much Jeff
Posted on: 7/23/2012 1:40 PM by Author "jeffp51" in the forum "RC Radios, Transmitters, Receivers, Servos, gyros"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11166150

RE: K&B Sportster Club
let's see, 1. running in a closed space 2. loose rags near the prop 3. adjusting the throttle without a pushrod 4. 4.8 volts on a 1.5 volt glow plug 5. was that block of wood even bolted down? I don't see any problems here
Posted on: 7/19/2012 10:13 AM by Author "jeffp51" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11161261

RE: Falke Biplane 60 build
Bill, Progress has slowed a little because I had to start teaching class again. That and I am a little stuck on the the cowl. Stayed up way too late last night trying to work it out. There are some complex curves and tight spaces that have to be accounted for. I also realized that my CG calculations were way off when I was first designingwhich was good, since the previously calculated CG would have left the plane very tail heavy. After double checking my numbers using several different methods, I realize that the CG should be further back than I thought, which puts me in a much better situationI shouldn't have to add any lead, which I always hate. I would love to see some pictures of your project. It sounds interesting
Posted on: 7/16/2012 2:49 PM by Author "jeffp51" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11157704

RE: K&B Sportster Club
[quote]1 amen to that, brother. I might have to find some silver solder and make a MCP. My ST .90 needs one and the K&B's could use them too. The stock muffler doesn't do much justice. [/quote] what is a MCP?
Posted on: 7/11/2012 2:06 PM by Author "jeffp51" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11151699

RE: Falke Biplane 60 build
[quote]This is a really nice build you have going on Jeff. Thanks for sharing. Subscribed. Bill [/quote] Thank you. I am enjoying building the plane, but as an original design, I worry about how well it will fly. There are so many unknownsare the angles right? do I have enough down thrust? do I have enough power? will the engine even run? All I can do now is cross my fingers and keep building.
Posted on: 7/9/2012 3:26 PM by Author "jeffp51" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11147918

RE: Falke Biplane 60 build
I have been working on hinging and lightening the tail of the plane, since it looks like it will likely be tail heavy. I have managed to shave a couple of ounces off, which may also help me keep the overall weight under 7 lbs. the servo hatch/ cockpit and the turtle deck are now done, although my son thinks I should sheet the rear turtle deck too.
Posted on: 7/7/2012 4:59 PM by Author "jeffp51" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11146939

RE: Falke Biplane 60 build
More pics. the interplane struts have been glued together, lightened, and sanded to airfoil shape. then it was time for the turtle decking. One end of the two hatches (one for the fuel tank and the other for the radio/servo compartment) are held down with magnets from a defunct brushless motor. The other end is held in place with a pin latch constructed from pen springs and pushrod wire. Sorry for some of the repeated pictures, but I can only see where to upload pictures, not where to remove them. does that delete link delete individual pictures, or the entire post?
Posted on: 6/29/2012 8:49 PM by Author "jeffp51" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11137258

RE: Falke Biplane 60 build
some pictures of my progress. I installed the carbon fiber wing joiners, attached the wing tips and sanded them down. After giving the cabane struts an airfoil shape, they were wrapped in carbon fiber tow and impregnated with finishing resin.
Posted on: 6/29/2012 8:40 PM by Author "jeffp51" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11137248

RE: Falke Biplane 60 build
Sanding, sanding, sanding. Not much to show, but a lot of work done over the weekend. Wing tips are hollowed out, balanced, and sanded to their final shape. I hope balsa dust isn't carcinogenic. I wrapped the wing struts with carbon fiber tow and epoxied them with finishing resin. The stuff sands pretty well, without fraying like fiberglass does. I am not sure how much strength it will add, but maybe it will reduce side-to-side flexing. Adding wire cross bracing would keep things perfectly rigid, but also add to set up complexity, which I would like to avoid. All up weight is approaching 7 pounds. Views of my thread have now passed 1000. Comments would be appreciated.
Posted on: 6/18/2012 8:27 AM by Author "jeffp51" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11122340

RE: Falke Biplane 60 build
I have a taped together plane now. After I roughed in the top wing, I cut apart the center section. I also cut down the wing tube by 2 inches, since it extends past the ribs, and therefore adds weight, but no strength. I saved 3/4 ounce. Next comes attaching the trailing edge, cutting out ailerons, and more fun with wingtips.
Posted on: 6/7/2012 3:20 PM by Author "jeffp51" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11110431

RE: K&B Sportster Club
Stump pulling is what I have in mind for mine. I have 936 sq. in. of scratch built biplane that I hope the .65 sportster will pull around. I don't need speed, but I hope it will fly a plane at around 7 lbs. Other than the 12x6, what does everyone prop the engine with?
Posted on: 6/2/2012 10:23 PM by Author "jeffp51" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11104389

RE: Scratch Building 1/4-Scale Pitts Model-12
If you are just talking about wing separation on the stresses, then keep in mind that in negative G situations, it is not the 5 lb fuse but the lighter wing that is trying to separate. the two wings will support each other and spread those stresses around. I don't think it will be as bad as you describe.
Posted on: 6/1/2012 9:21 AM by Author "jeffp51" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11102519

RE: K&B Sportster Club
does it help to take the baffles out of the muffler (specifically on the. 65), or does adversely affect the performance?
Posted on: 5/31/2012 12:17 PM by Author "jeffp51" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11101451

RE: Falke Biplane 60 build
slow but important progress. I sheeted the center section of the lower wing, glassed it, and added the mounting pegs. I also installed the mounting block to the fuse, and drilled the bolt holes and tapped them for 1/4-20 nylon bolts. Next I sanded the wing tip blocks to shape and hollowed them out to save weight. It looks like I that may save me all of 5 grams. It doesn't hardly seem worth it, but I suppose it all adds up. there is a 1/32 ply insert at the TE to keep it strong. I also did some work on control surfaces. I cut out the ailerons from the TE and tapered their LEs. The elevator halves are joined with 1/8" music wire.
Posted on: 5/25/2012 1:08 PM by Author "jeffp51" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11094511

RE: Falke Biplane 60 build
for the next section, I need some advice. I built the N-struts and reinforced them with carbon fiber, But they look a bit tall in real life as opposed to the plans. The goal was to get the top wing one cord-width above the bottom wing, or about 9 inches, to reduce interferance between the two wings. Aesthetically, I don't think I like it that high, and I worry about an upward pitching moment with the top wing so high above the thrustline. I think with some semi-major surgery, I can lower the top wing an inch or so (probably closer to 3/4 of an inch) by cutting off the bottoms of the N-struts, but it would also mean cutting my already laser-cut wing struts in half and taking a chunk out of the middle. Do I make the change, or leave it as-is?
Posted on: 5/25/2012 1:03 PM by Author "jeffp51" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11094559

RE: Falke Biplane 60 build
More progress on the lower wing. The first thing I had to do was assemble the trailing edge/ ailerons. Because of the shape of the airfoil, any single piece of stock even if I had been able to find one the right shape would have been very heavy, so I chose to design a built-up TE. I was about 10 shy of the little triangle pieces somehow, but they were easy to make without the laser cutter, so it wasn't a big problem. the main spar of the TE has to be tapered on both sides so that it forms an isosceles triangle, which will allow the final angle of the piece to sit straight on the back of the wing. What you don't see in this picture is the solid balsa filler needed for the wing bolts or for the clevis mounting. I got all excited about gluing them together, that I forgot to add them before I put the top on. Instead, I had to cut open each spot and add filler and then sand back smooth. There is also a 1/16 x 1/2 plywood strip between the top and bottom sheet to harden the TE after everything is sanded to shape. The top sheet should probably be sanded before it was glued on, but it seemed a little easier to glue it on firstwhich caused a big flat spot on the last 1/2 inch. Most of that can be quickly sanded out. If the ply were set back from the TE by 1/16" or so, then the sanding would go even better.
Posted on: 5/10/2012 2:35 PM by Author "jeffp51" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11076137

RE: Falke Biplane 60 build
One more not today on weight So far I am under my weight expectations. I did calculations for wing loadings between 18 and 22 oz/sq. ft. The low end would mean a weight of 7.3 lbs, and the top end would be 8.9 lbs. My fixed weights (wheels, engine, battery, etc.) plus the rough (unsanded) parts built so far come out to 5.5 pounds. If the top wing is about the same weight as the bottom, the frame without covering will be just about 6.3 pounds, which means I just might be able to get this bird in under 7 pounds. Since I don't believe the K&B .65 is going to be a real powerhouse, and since I would like landings to be gentle, the lighter it ends up being, the better.
Posted on: 5/10/2012 2:26 PM by Author "jeffp51" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11076170

RE: Falke Biplane 60 build
You would think that I could learn to keep my thumbs out of the way. when trimming the filler stock, my knife slipped yet again and I sliced into my thumb. Good thing we humans have evolved thumbnails to stop x-acto blades with. I wish I had a dollar for every knife scar on my left hand. Assembly of the wing was fairly straight forward. Due to the sweep, each spar slot has to be sanded a little to account for the angle. Each rib is tabbed to keep it at the correct alignment, and I shimmed the LE and the TE to keep them straight across the entire span. Everything else is standard D-tube construction. Sheeted front section top and bottom, vertical sheer webbing butting against both ribs in each bay across the full span and cap strips on top of each rib. I decided to extend the plywood spar that holds the wing pegs out an extra rib bay for added strength, since the sweep makes it hard to reinforce the center joint. I extended the center sheeting for the same reason. With the wing mostly framed (I still need to add the bottom sheeting) I can start to get an idea for the overall shape of the plane. Things are starting to look a little like an aircraft. The tail still looks big, but I don't think that will be a bad thing.
Posted on: 5/10/2012 2:15 PM by Author "jeffp51" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11076157

RE: Falke Biplane 60 build
Here are pictures of the wing tube and sleeve. The tube is a replacement part for some airplane on tower hobbies, and Extra, I think, but I don't remember now. But it didn't come with a sleeve, so I had to make my own. I am sort of proud of how it turned outsilly, I knowso I am going to explain what I did: I started by wrapping the tube in plastic wrap so that the sleeve would release after it was glued. I cut the paper from a grocery bag by spiraling the cut around and around the bag until I had a two-inch wide strip about ten feet long. This I wrapped diagonally around the wing tube and plastic while soaking the paper in wood glue thinned with water. I wrapped it a second time in the opposite direction. When it dried, the paper tightened up around the tube, but it came out relatively easily. Then I had to sand the outside smooth, and of course it was still too thick for the holes in the ribs by just a little bit, so I wrapped a drill bit in sand paper and put it in the drill press (poor man's drum sander) and sanded it until everything fit just right. Total weight was 7 grams.
Posted on: 5/1/2012 8:56 PM by Author "jeffp51" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11064932

RE: Falke Biplane 60 build
I have spent some time cutting wing pieces. this is where I begin to question the swept wing design. If I had a flat wing, I would need half as many pieces since they could reach full span. Instead, I have to make a left and a right of everything, plus a top wing and a bottom wing. I count 28 span-wise spars and stringers between the top and bottom wings. I was also able to get the ribs laser cut today. It went much smoother today compared to last time. Everything looks pretty good
Posted on: 5/1/2012 8:23 PM by Author "jeffp51" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11064879

RE: K&B Sportster Club
I really don't know what percentage of my lube is castor, although I know it has some, but I have some castor oil that I could add to my fuel? or do you know which fuel brands only use castor? My biplane project is [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_11004737/tm.htm]here[/link]
Posted on: 4/29/2012 4:38 PM by Author "jeffp51" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11061645

RE: K&B Sportster Club
I will be mounting a .65 sportster on a scratch-built biplane soon. That is, as soon as I get it built. The engine is definitely from an army drone, and has never been run. the head fins are the short ones, and does not have the same markings that others are saying come from the drone engines. I acquired this one when my national guard unit transitioned from armor to air defense artillery. We inherited dozens of the drones, but had no way of using them (no transmitters) I saved this one, but had no space for the airframe. This was about 2004. I don't know when the engine was built, but I hope it doesn't have the carb problems some of you mention. I haven't started it yet, but any suggestions are welcome. My first engine in 1984 was a K&B .40BB. It ran great until I landed it in a river. Less well after that.
Posted on: 4/29/2012 12:58 PM by Author "jeffp51" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11061423