RE: Glow Plug
MC9's a good choice. Very sturdy plug but don't expect a good low idle out of it which you shouldn't be concerned with anyways, but with my experience it needs the glow driver left on till theres a little bit of heat in the motor, or it likes to stumble at idle and quit.
Posted on: 9/10/2012 2:40 PM by Author "jetpack" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11224145

RE: Irwin tuned pipes
Might try this guy... [link=http://joshfulton.tripod.com/products4.htm]Precision Boats - .45 pipes[/link]
Posted on: 8/28/2012 3:38 PM by Author "jetpack" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11209518

RE: Anyone know what this is?
JD is correct only it is the Drag N' Fly 20 Mark II version which is designed as a picklefork bow and a recessed transom to mount an outboard. The Mark I version had a spade bow and was an inboard mount. No cut-out for the OB. There are also three different sizes of the Drag 'N Flys. A 20, 40 and 60 version which are all the same proportions.
Posted on: 8/22/2012 5:07 PM by Author "jetpack" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11202466

Webra 61 RI Disc Rotor Clearance
I figured one of you guys here has had some experience with these motors. I have a few marine versions I'll be running that I have restored and wondering what clearance I should give the rotor to the housing before I go tightening set screws. Right now I would only be guessing.
Posted on: 7/7/2012 5:54 AM by Author "jetpack" in the forum "General Racing Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11146295

RE: Exhaust Threads Stripped
chances are its not stripped all the way to the bottom. run a piece of threaded rod down it and make a stud for that hole. cheap and easy if you have the rod.
Posted on: 7/2/2012 5:21 PM by Author "jetpack" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11140509

RE: Stuck Cases - Soak, Heat, Beat???
I'll check it out next time I go for car parts. That could be soon. [:-] I thought about the crock pot after I finish getting things taken apart because it seems heat does the trick on this engine stuff but I rather not mess with the anti-freeze. Thats what basically pushed me towards the aircraft stripper method. A bit faster with the same results it seems, plus I dont have to worry about blackening the aluminum but its still not totally effective without scrubbing.
Posted on: 6/27/2012 3:16 PM by Author "jetpack" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11134284

RE: Stuck Cases - Soak, Heat, Beat???
I wasn't sure what this was. The motor had never been ran and it also had been oiled sometime in its past so I didn't know what exactly I was dealing with. This time I count myself lucky. I've been restoring webra marine engines for myself and I've run into some nightmares with things being stuck. I could only tell by the way the head bolts came out of it and theres still heavy deposits in the threads of the case I'll have to go after with reamer brushes and who knows what I have that could cut it. I dont think the aircraft stripper will eat it. Maybe.
Posted on: 6/26/2012 4:23 PM by Author "jetpack" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11132988

Varying Intake Disc Rotor Housing
I have a Webra .61 with disc rotor intake. What would happen if the holes were slotted and you are then able to retard or advance the housing? Could this be a way to fine tune the engine? What had me wondering is this looks like it is drilled a little off location radially.
Posted on: 6/26/2012 4:17 PM by Author "jetpack" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11132980

RE: Stuck Cases - Soak, Heat, Beat???
I got it apart by hand, no heat. After my last post here I threw everything in a ziploc bag and gave it another shot of PB-Blaster, an aerosol penetrating oil (very stinky stuff. dont let it in the house). This last weekend I dug it out of the shed, set it in the grass and let the sun hit it all day. Rinsed it out with Brake Cleanerd and gave the bearing housing a twist and presto. Lifted the piston out (wow, my first look at a dyke's ring) and pushed the intake housing straight out. I just have to try my gear puller at work now to remove the flywheel and I can start thinking of taking the bearings out. Another challenge sometimes. Off to shop for bearings and dig out a precious set of .61 case gaskets. Now that everything is apart, I will be giving everything a soak and a scrub in some Aircraft Stripper. I know they're will be some gum still left on it but we'll see. I was very suprised to find how little there was of the black tar, the outside appearance fooled me some but it doesn't take that much of this kind of sap to really stick things. Thank you for all the suggestions. I know if it was stuck any harder the heat would have really helped and know it has to happen when the bearings have to come out.
Posted on: 6/25/2012 6:41 PM by Author "jetpack" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11131826

Stuck Cases - Soak, Heat, Beat???
I have a motor that has dried oils in it. I've used brake cleaner and it also has spent some time in penetrating oil and the back plate and front housing still won't seperate from the crankcase. I hate to use mechanical methods on it. What's a good way to do it? It's brand new but just old and not cared for with the right oils. Everything was black tar.
Posted on: 6/16/2012 7:47 AM by Author "jetpack" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11120128

RE: cleaned an engine in prestone and it blackened ... what to do ?
I have used this and an various brushes starting with brass and then a stiff nylon detail brush. Stainless brushes and this cleaner work well together but watch your edges and it might leave scratchs. It's water rinse so it flushes out really well and leaves no residue if your careful. Works great with a scotchbrite pad. The compound really helps remove oxidation on brass without touching so it must be a little acidic. Barkeeper's Friend is also a good product. Look for it in the sink cleaners at the grocery store, same with the copper cleaner. It's like Comet sink powder but different in the respect it etches aluminum nicely to a factory shade. If you want to do it right it takes elbow grease and taking the whole motor apart. I don't know of any other way without masking and grit blasting. One note about grit blasting, I personally would oil soak the cases afterwards to lift all the powder out of the aluminum pores with some good penetrating oil. I have done this and its amazing how much aluminum is left in the pools of oil.
Posted on: 6/16/2012 7:39 AM by Author "jetpack" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11120047

RE: DPI is back!
how did you learn this? is there a website yet?
Posted on: 6/4/2012 3:16 PM by Author "jetpack" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11106311

RE: Why not a Webra engines thread?
Would anyone be able to tell me what size Dynamix carb came with the .91 ? Thanks I'm also looking for dimensions of the carb adapter for it, mainly the collar height and what size set screws. I've only seen general pictures of them. Is the inside stepped to match the carb bore diameter? I am also starting to look at drilling my cases to accept bolt-on headers and wondering what the center to center distance the factory drilled them at. Mac's Products has some of them but not all. below is my .91 that I am asking questions about. Its a marine version I am restoring from new. I just got a fuel pump for it and seeing how it fits. I would like to try it with a Dynamix. Does anyone know what the red anodized Dynamix is all about? Is the red cover plate and filter just a filter or designate a specific type of carb?
Posted on: 6/3/2012 5:35 AM by Author "jetpack" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11104093

RE: 1977 Blue Can Cox glow fuel...
Cans marked "Flight Power" fuel contained the 15% blend. The race fuel was always advertised as 30%. Cox changed the titles on their fuel it seemed hard to know exactly what you were buying as far as percentages
Posted on: 5/28/2012 4:54 AM by Author "jetpack" in the forum "Control Lines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11096823

RE: 1977 Blue Can Cox glow fuel...
If it is still full and unopened it should still be fine. Metal cans are one of the best ways to store it. I don't think there is any way to test it other than running it, however. What you have is 10% nitro mix.
Posted on: 5/26/2012 5:30 PM by Author "jetpack" in the forum "Control Lines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11095662

RE: Why not a Webra engines thread?
Nope, everything should be fine. It was just Webra's way of catering to the US market the best they could.
Posted on: 5/16/2012 2:03 PM by Author "jetpack" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11083378

RE: Why not a Webra engines thread?
Standard thread engines (1/4-28) were supplied to the USA. The metric thread cranks were sold to europe. No other differences between the two cranks.
Posted on: 5/16/2012 1:52 PM by Author "jetpack" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11083363

OPS .40 vs .45 Exhaust Hole Spacing
Are the cases drilled and tapped the same on the exhaust for the .40 and .45 engines? Is there any difference in exhaust port size or shape?
Posted on: 5/1/2012 8:39 PM by Author "jetpack" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11064903

Webra 15mm Neck Adapter
I have a .91 (15cc) and would like a dynamix setup for it. What size was supplied with that version? Would anyone be able to give me general dimensions of the step bushing they supplied with them? Are those pressed onto the carb?
Posted on: 3/11/2012 2:42 PM by Author "jetpack" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10995778

RE: engine cleaner
[quote]ORIGINAL: mustangman177 jetpac: I've never cleaned a engine before and have several which could use a good cleaning. How hard is it using your method ? The Aircraft Coating Remover looks intriguing. Does this have to be ordered specially, or where can it be obtained commercially ? [/quote] I've looked through all of our local commercial auto parts stores in town. Just one had the Mar-Hyde brand. As far as using it, I would save it for cleaning only if you take it all apart. It's really not hard to do that but usually its safer without any bearings to get hurt or solvent being trapped somewhere. It's a jelly consistency just like paint stripper. Your trying to remove varnish so I tried it and it worked fairly well but you still need to be able to scrub where the carbon is hiding for it to go through it.
Posted on: 2/25/2012 12:44 PM by Author "jetpack" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10975028

RE: fuel tanks?
Veco is gone I think. Acme has tanks. Brodak also. Perfect brand fuel tanks come up on eBay quite a bit. Why a Veco in particular? What type of tank was he running? http://brodak.com/fuel/fuel-tank.html?p=3
Posted on: 2/23/2012 6:31 PM by Author "jetpack" in the forum "Control Lines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10973053

RE: engine cleaner
This works for me. I had the best luck with this brand out of a couple others.
Posted on: 2/23/2012 2:40 PM by Author "jetpack" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10972703

RE: Why not a Webra engines thread?
Fuel pumps are something I've had to look into and decided to go with what Webra themselves used to use, the Perry pump. They used to build them into their back plates and came with a seperate one-way valve that it works with. I think I read about the Cline regulator at the same time I looked into Perry sytems and the only thing that affected that is the price. Clines are expensive.
Posted on: 2/20/2012 8:11 AM by Author "jetpack" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10967386

O-ring compound
What is the proper compound for use in nitro motors? Buna-N?
Posted on: 2/20/2012 5:20 AM by Author "jetpack" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10967163

RE: Webra 120 vs. 91 exhaust opening size for gasket
I would rather have it be a gasket for easier service with the header as I am cutting for tuned pipes and it is a marine engine. I'll probably want to remove the header and pipe more often than an aero motor. Gaskets are just easier to deal with if you plan on taking things on and off often.
Posted on: 2/18/2012 12:54 PM by Author "jetpack" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10964779

Webra 120 vs. 91 exhaust opening size for gasket
Would anyone be able to tell me if the Webra 120 uses the same gasket as the 91? The laser cutter has them for only the 120, not the 91 but I think they are the same size flange. He only cuts gaskets, doesnt know about if it would fit.
Posted on: 2/18/2012 9:52 AM by Author "jetpack" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10964562

RE: Webra
Webra engine thread with all the goodies, Tanque. http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_7948113/mpage_1/key_/tm.htm[link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_7948113/mpage_1/key_/tm.htm]click here[/link]
Posted on: 1/7/2012 12:04 PM by Author "jetpack" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10896522

RE: a little big for 1/2A but 15 size
To me, 1/8th A and 1/2 A means glow head, not glow plugs but yet the area here are glow plug engines. I look in the other forums for that. I think most others have the assumption when seeing this topic expect to find Cox and Norvel type engines...where we get booted out or laughed at in the other forums for mentioning them. I've had it happen. Anyways, it's just another thread off path but some good points made. I just don't like links to sales ads in the forum. It's improper and always makes me feel someone is trying to cram something down my throat. We get enough of that in this world for it to happen in our hobby forum where people go to intentionally get away from such things.
Posted on: 12/9/2011 3:06 AM by Author "jetpack" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10851163

RE: a little big for 1/2A but 15 size
[quote]ORIGINAL: airraptor http://www.rcuniverse.com/market/item.cfm?itemId=802208 in the for sale right now. Something different.............. [/quote] I can't interpret this in any other way than a sales ad whether it was generated by the seller, sellers friend, sellers associate, sellers fan club or sellers enthusiast. If I wanted to shop instead of clicking and reading someones question or advice...I would visit the "For Sale" isle. NOW... If the post included an effort as to the owners past experience with one, building advice, reference pictures, etc I would have a different opinion. But it doesn't. It is a link to the "For Sale" items and a few wasted keystrokes. Next time the phone rings, I would like to hear from a friend. Not a salesman at dinner time. The world simply has too many of them for my liking in my area of habitation in this "Universe". PS I would like my time back in full because of this, and no...I do not have a reciept. [8|] However, printable full-scale plans of that bird would certainly make up for it. It does look like a wonderful plane. [8D]
Posted on: 12/7/2011 7:09 PM by Author "jetpack" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10848921

RE: Carb vs. venturi & exhaust throttle
If it fits, try it. The worst thing that can happen is it won't run. If the bore of the carb is larger than the 6.5 the only thing that can happen is it will want to draw too much air too freely and won't want to draw fuel as well, or stall near wide open because it will loose its vacuum.
Posted on: 11/24/2011 9:28 AM by Author "jetpack" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10827152