RE: Blade CX2 Servos..Which To Buy?
Here is the link I told you about. It is one of many, many procedures for leveling the swashplate of the CX2. It is very detailed and works well even for a newbie! For others just do a Google search on "CX2 SWASHPLATE LEVELING" and many links will appear. If you are not happy with this one then try another procedure. http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=642401
Posted on: 1/5/2008 4:13 PM by Author "jfail1" in the forum "E-Flite Helicopters"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6858793

RE: Blade CX2 Servos..Which To Buy?
If I were you I would certainly replace both servos so that everything matches up. It would be "ok" to just replace one but the travel etc. between them might be somewhat different but it will probably not make any difference at all. I just prefer to match everything up but you don't absolutely have to. Yes, you must reverse the switch on the transmitter on the servo you replace (be it the Elevator or Aileron). If you only replace one with a 55 just reverse that one only and not the one that was NOT replaced. No you do not have to rebind at all, only the receiver cares about rebinding. You may very well have to re-level the swashplate after replacing the servo(s), that has been covered a million times on the forums. I will send you a link on how to re-level the swashplate. It is a pretty simple procedure. I will send it in an hour or so (I have to find it!). A bench rotary sander will work fine for grinding the tab(s) off. Remember you are only taking off part of the rear servo, not the entire tab. Look at your heli on the left side on the rear servo and you will see the original servo is already notched.
Posted on: 1/5/2008 4:08 PM by Author "jfail1" in the forum "E-Flite Helicopters"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6858767

RE: Blade CX2 Servos..Which To Buy?
Hi Dave Don't reverse the connectors on the heli, set the switches on the transmitter to reverse for the elevator and ailerons. See page 19 of the CX2 manual, reverse switch 6 for the aileron and reverse switch 7 for the elevator. Write down where they currently are (probably both in the on position) before you reverse them in case you ever go back to the original servos. Connect the servos to the 4 in 1 exactly as the original servos were connected. I used HS-55's because I had two new ones in my parts box and they are a direct replacement for the servos in the heli. They are very, very common, almost any hobby shop would have them. The can be had for between $10.00 and $15.00 each depending where you shop. You will have to cut the mounting tab off of the bottom of the forward servo (Aileron) to mount it. You will have to cut a notch in the forward part of the bottom tab of the rear servo (Elevator) so that it will mount correctly. If you don't cut the tab the bottom of the servo will angle towards the rear of the heli and you don't want that. All of this will become very clear to you when you look at it on your heli. You can do it!!!!!!!!!!! John
Posted on: 1/5/2008 2:01 PM by Author "jfail1" in the forum "E-Flite Helicopters"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6858174

RE: Blade CX2 Servos..Which To Buy?
I had a bad elevator servo yesterday on my CX2. Caused all kinds of problems. I replaced both of them with Hitec HS-55's which were almost a perfect fit. You only have to cut a mounting ear off the bottom of the forward servo to get it mounted. You have to reverse the aileron and elevator servos on the radio for them to work. They worked just great on mine.
Posted on: 1/5/2008 7:14 AM by Author "jfail1" in the forum "E-Flite Helicopters"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6856771

RE: I need Help with AR6100 Antenna
As long as you replaced it with a wire the same length as the original antenna wire you will be fine. That is of course that you got it soldered back on with no shorts to adjacent pads on the circuit board.
Posted on: 12/31/2007 8:19 AM by Author "jfail1" in the forum "JR Radio & Spektrum Radios"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6830575

RE: Throttle lock for electrics on 9303 2.4
I think I got it. 1. Select the model you want to setup throttle lock for. 2. Go to LIST function 3. Select Throttle Curve 4. Use SW SELECT (I selected the GER switch) to use the switch you want to use for throttle lock 5. Look at the upper line where it says [THRO CURV]>, you will see a 0 or 1 when you toggle the selected switch. This will toggle between 0/1 as you operate the selected switch. 6. Set the selected switch to the desired LOCK position ( 0 or 1) 7. Select POS 0 just below [THRO CURV] (it is probably already selected) 8. It now shows Pos. 0 and Pos. 1 9. Make sure Pos 0 is selected 10. Select Point L on the right side of the screen 11. Change point L to 0 12. Change point 3 to 0 (if not already 0) 13. Change point H to 0 14. Leave 1, 2, 4 and 5 at INH 15. You now have a flat line across the scale on the right meaning the throttle is inhibited in the lock position of the selected switch. 16. Select Pos. 0 again (under [THRO CURV] 17. Toggle between Pos. 0 and Pos. 1 - you will see the scale on the right change from a linear curve to a flat curve when you toggle between Pos. 1 and Pos.2. It was a little deceiving in that I expected to see the scale change as I toggled the LOCK/UNLOCK switch but it did not. You have to use the Pos. 0 function to see the change occur. 18. Your throttle lock should now work fine. 19. I have not tested this seriously yet so be mindful of safety when working with it. 20. It seems to work in all flight modes. 21. Comments, improvements etc. welcomed. John
Posted on: 10/28/2007 11:08 AM by Author "jfail1" in the forum "JR Radio & Spektrum Radios"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6549112

RE: Throttle lock for electrics on 9303 2.4
I tried using programable mix 1 and setting the curve to zero across the board also but could not get it to switch to a linear curve when toggling the selected switch (GEAR). Also tried the method used on the DX7 (thro > thro and set both stick positions to -125 with an offset of -125) which worked great but that did not work well on the 9303 and was unreliable. I had to fool around with end-points in that function and then come back to mix 3 (the one I was using for it) and mess with the offsets to make it work. I considered it unreliable. Hopefully we can get this worked out, it is bound to be very useful to many people with electrics on the 9303 2.4. I appreciate everyone's efforts. John
Posted on: 10/28/2007 6:22 AM by Author "jfail1" in the forum "JR Radio & Spektrum Radios"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6548479

RE: New 9303 2.4 ..no smooth throttle plate!
It's easy enough to make a smooth throttle by slipping a piece of fuel tubing over the existing plate and bending it a little bit until the tension is what you want. Works great.
Posted on: 10/27/2007 5:06 PM by Author "jfail1" in the forum "JR Radio & Spektrum Radios"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6546583

Throttle lock for electrics on 9303 2.4
Has anyone come up with programming to assign a switch such as GEAR to a throttle lock function on the 9303 2.4? I got one to partially work on using a mix but I don't consider it very reliable since I had to use end points in conjunction with a throttle to throttle mix to make it work. I have to readjust it for each motor since not all ESC's see the end points in the same place. It was easy on my DX7 (not my programming but one I found on a forum) but it is not going so well on the 9303. I'm only interested in this on electric airplanes, most ESC's will not arm if the throttle is not in the lowest position. There are those that will run wild if the throttle is not in the down position when attaching the battery. I just like the safety of having a switch to prevent the throttle from operating at all. Thanks John
Posted on: 10/27/2007 5:04 PM by Author "jfail1" in the forum "JR Radio & Spektrum Radios"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6546463

RE: Thunder Power Battery
ALLERC.COM carries an adapter from the Hyperion LBA-10 balancer to ThunderPower packs
Posted on: 8/9/2007 8:16 PM by Author "jfail1" in the forum "T-Rex heli"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6218039

RE: Good source for 450SE V2 parts???
ALLERC.COM is very well stocked with almost any Trex part.
Posted on: 7/31/2007 10:42 PM by Author "jfail1" in the forum "T-Rex heli"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6181534

RE: 6000 or 6100 for the t-rex 450se?
The AR6100 is a far better all around receiver.
Posted on: 7/26/2007 8:38 PM by Author "jfail1" in the forum "T-Rex heli"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6160841

RE: T-REX 450 SE with Spektrum DX7
Thanks to both of you for the guidance. I had to delay on buying my T-Rex for a few days. The links look very informative and should be very helpful. John
Posted on: 6/30/2007 10:27 AM by Author "jfail1" in the forum "T-Rex heli"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6054216

T-REX 450 SE with Spektrum DX7
I just ordered a T-REX 450SE and plan to use it with my Spektrum DX7 and AR6100 receiver. Anyone have any links to sites with basic setups of the configuration in the DX7 for flying the T-REX? Thanks John Mesa, AZ
Posted on: 6/22/2007 8:47 PM by Author "jfail1" in the forum "T-Rex heli"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6022037

RE: Transall C-160
I belive nitromodels.com has nacelles available for the C-160. Don't know what the price would be. They have the camo and white versions available on their website. The customer service from them used to be absolutely terrible but has improved greatly in the last couple of months. Try contacting them at support@nitromodels.com John
Posted on: 5/23/2007 8:52 PM by Author "jfail1" in the forum "Glow to Electric Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5893643

Futaba 9CAP Throttle Lock for Electrics
Anyone have info on how to program a throttle lock function on my 9CAP for electric models to prevent the possiblity of the prop spinning when I hook up the battery pack? TIA John Mesa, AZ
Posted on: 5/17/2007 5:11 PM by Author "jfail1" in the forum "Futaba Radios Direct support forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5867465

RE: Eletronic engine syncronizer **SUPPORT **
I am one of Bill's test people. I tested and used (and still use) the TwinSync since day one. Of course there were some startup issues especially with the documentation of the TwinSync in the early days. The product works great on three of my twin engine models and has since day one. Bill is very attentive to this forum and is far above most in supporting the product. I am sure this is some sort of aberation and Bill will make it right. It works and works great, just look back in this thread and you will see there are many satisfied users. I presume when you refer to lack of documentation you are talking about the display unit. Mine works great by just plugging it in. The display alternates between the two engines.
Posted on: 5/10/2007 12:24 PM by Author "jfail1" in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5834519

RE: CP Pro and DX7 from the beginning
I bought a near new CP PRO today which had a bent shaft and the LHS fixed that for me. I have a CX2 that I have flown quite a bit with no major incidents. I have the DX7 working fine on the CX2. Now I am interested in putting a AR6100 on the PRO and run it with the DX7. I see lots of threads on this subject but I am a bit confused on a couple of points. I keep seeing references to the G90. Do I need to have it? Can't I just replace the receiver with the AR6100, hook everything up correctly to the 3 in 1 and fly it? Obviously I will have to work my way thru trims etc. Thanks for any help John Mesa, AZ
Posted on: 4/15/2007 7:55 PM by Author "jfail1" in the forum "E-Flite Helicopters"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5721155

RE: Predator
I think it does have a bit of a stall problem, I would just land it with some speed. I had expected it to glide a lot better in the air but it has a tendency to stall at a medium slow speed which I really thought it would glide very well. I did use the CG as specified in the manual. I found that you really have to keep the speed up in turns as it will slide to the side very rapidly. I am using the Spekturm DX7 radio with a AR6100 receiver in it. I used the V-Tail function in the DX-7 which works very well. It uses one elevator on the elevator channel and the other on the rudder channel ( I think, don't have the radio in front of me). It would work just as well with straight elevators freeing the rudder channel up for steering. I found nose wheel steering un-necessary since the plane tracks very well in a straight line on take off and landing. By the way for those using the SPEKTRUM AR6100 receiver there is a programming update for the receiver. See this link: http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=SPM6100
Posted on: 4/2/2007 2:21 PM by Author "jfail1" in the forum "NitroModels Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5654039

RE: Predator
Yes, I thought the holes were not drilled in the Horizontal stabs also. Like you I sanded the root down and sure enough there they were and I did use them. Yes, I put epoxy down the tubes to grip the steel pins. I did not note any epoxy flowing into the fuselage but I did not use all that much expoxy in them. I sanded the pins a bit to make them rough so the epoxy would hold a little better. I would say the pins are for location AND strength. I also exposed the balsa between the holes on the fuselage so that it would get a little better bond to the sanded root of the stabs. The steering turned out to be a non-issue in that the plane tracked straight down the runway on takeoff and landing. Apparently some have added nose steering to the plane. I use a DX7/AR6100 on mine and just used the V-Tail function which required the use of the rudder channel so I just went with the fixed nosewheel. I was uncomfortable in gluing the wings to the fuselage in the event I ever had to change a aileron servo so I cut small rectangles in the fuselage, reinforced it behind the cutouts then covered it and used tiny aluminum brackets to attach the wings to the fuselage. The wings do not fit the fuselage all that well at the root so I made very thin plywood shims to fill the gap between the wing root and the fuselage being very careful to maintain the dihedral. I don't think the plane flies all THAT good. I expected it to glide well with the power cut, not the case. You gotta keep speed on it all the time. It does take off and land well. I noted that you really have to keep the speed up in turns.
Posted on: 3/21/2007 1:19 PM by Author "jfail1" in the forum "NitroModels Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5595488

RE: Stearman and Pole Cat...
nitrostaff1 I built a Polecat about 4 months ago and also had a broken cowl in the same manner as above. I was told at the time they were not available. What is the chances I can get a replacement cowl for it. I have long lost the order number. Maybe you can find it in your files. John Fail Mesa, AZ
Posted on: 3/16/2007 12:13 AM by Author "jfail1" in the forum "NitroModels Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5568324

RE: Predator
I am ready to maiden mine tomorrow morning. I am curious about the lack of steering. Anyone got info on how it handles on the ground? Does it track straight on takeoff and landing or should I be ready for some pulling one way or the other? Any comments on flying it would be helpful also. Thanks John
Posted on: 3/9/2007 1:28 PM by Author "jfail1" in the forum "NitroModels Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5535488

RE: Predator
I started building mine last night. I was suprised at a few things on it. The wings are intended to be glued on and not removeable. If one did that it would be pretty tough to change an Aileron servo if it was required. I am going to try to figure out something to get around that problem such as cutting an access hatch in the bottom or top of the fuselage. Also I see that no access holes are cut in the fuselage to route the servo wires into the fuselage although they are cut in the wing root. I am using HS-65 servos for the Ailerons they bottom out in the wing and I had to make small mounting blocks and glue them to the wing to avoid that problem. I also see that holes are not drilled in the Elevator stabs for the steel pins that go into the fuselage even though they are present in the fuselage. Seems like the manufacturer left out some details on this plane. Not a big deal for the price but kinda strange. What flight configuration did you guys use, Elevons?, conventional Aileron/Elevators? I fly off of a dirt runway and the lack of steering is of a little concern to me. Any input would be appreciated on configuring the flight condition, building etc. Also the throws used would be valuable. The article about the predator in Backyard Flyer is an absolute joke with no details of any kind and no mention of problems (such as the lack of holes for the Aileron servo wires) among many others. As per usual in the magazine reviews they say the plane is perfect so that manufactures will still advertise in thier magazine.
Posted on: 3/3/2007 9:45 AM by Author "jfail1" in the forum "NitroModels Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5502751

RE: Predator
opjose Can you tell me which magazine the review of the Predator appeared in. I am sure I saw it in the past but I can't find it to save my life. Thanks John
Posted on: 2/28/2007 8:03 PM by Author "jfail1" in the forum "NitroModels Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5490701

RE: Predator
Glacier Girl Thanks for the info. If one reads the description you get the idea that the stab would be down but I thought they were actually referring to the REAL Predator. Hopefully it will have the correct stab. Thanks again.
Posted on: 2/27/2007 12:27 PM by Author "jfail1" in the forum "NitroModels Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5483372

RE: Predator
opjose Thanks very much for the help. I will order the $89.95 one. I would have never figured that one out, thanks again
Posted on: 2/27/2007 12:25 PM by Author "jfail1" in the forum "NitroModels Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5483364

Predator
I have sent e-mails, made phone calls etc. and NitroPlanes never responds. It seemed for awhile they were improving but I think they are going bad again. Thier web site shows a Predator UAV that I am interested in purchasing and playing around with. They list two ARF's, one part number 212308 at $74.95 and another with no part number at $89.95. I cannot tell any difference between them other than the price. I have tried contacting NitroPlanes thru the normal methods as above. No response. Maybe they will read this. I sure wish they would clear this up and I will order one.
Posted on: 2/27/2007 8:39 AM by Author "jfail1" in the forum "NitroModels Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5482572

RE: Eletronic engine syncronizer **SUPPORT **
I have been using the TwinSync for about two months now and today it saved my plane. I have two planes using the TwinSync, a Hobbico TwinStar with O.S. 25's and a CMP C-160 with O.S. 32's. This morning I was getting ready to fly my TwinStar when I had some trouble in the pre-flight check with the left engine. It seemed to be loading up kinda bad. I re-adjusted the high and low end and all seemed well. I rolled onto the runway for take off and all still seemed well. As I accelerated, both engines came to full power and I rotated for liftoff. Immediately after lifting off the left engine quit. The plane started to roll over but almost immediately the right engine throttled back and I was able to regain control and land the plane. On further examination it was found that a hairline split was present in the fuel line from the needle valve to the carb thus causing the engine to lean out and shut down. Long and the short of it is the TwinSync did exactly what it should do by throttling the running engine back to help regain control. If it had not been for the TwinSync I probably could not have realized what happened right after lift off and reacted quickly enough to gain control and save the plane. I replaced the fuel line and two more flights were without incident. A great product!!!
Posted on: 2/7/2007 10:02 PM by Author "jfail1" in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5386712

RE: Cool CX2 Mod for "hard" landers
Where do I order Jamies skids from?
Posted on: 2/1/2007 9:06 PM by Author "jfail1" in the forum "E-Flite Helicopters"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5358139

RE: Eletronic engine syncronizer **SUPPORT **
I flew my C-160 with O.S. 32's and the TwinSync this morning. Absolutely flawless, the TwinSync performed perfectly. I had some minor issues with carburation and idle on one engine (nothing to do with the TwinSync) but got them straightend out and all was fine. The .32's/TwinSync synced right up from the getgo. I now have two planes with TwinSync's installed, C-160 and HobbiCo TwinStar with O.S. 25's. The Dual Ace with O.S. .46's is next. Love the product, highly recommended.
Posted on: 12/16/2006 3:27 PM by Author "jfail1" in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5123512