RE: Upgrade CP or get a T-Rex?
i started the thread, you will have to read through it and it's kind of long. http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?p=5857412#post5857412 the thread is old, before the dx7 came out. now that the dx7 is out with ADVERTISED fixes to ECCPM accuracy and control lag + servo synchronization tweaks, it's an admission of 'guilt' deficiencies in the dx6 by the manufacturer themselves. the case is closed and i was right. i argued over this issue with close friends who can fly better than me (im not that great of a pilot). only recently they have reevaluated their position on the subject since theyve had many opportunities to try systems side by side.
Posted on: 9/5/2007 11:00 PM by Author "jh4db536" in the forum "T-Rex heli"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6333246

RE: Is it really Necessary to Have an SE?
the 90 degree plate and 120 degree plate accomplish essentially the same thing: phase the swashplate for aileron, elevator, and collective. 90 degree - usually MCCPM Mechanical mixed (denoted as HDE in trex) has 1 servo for each control surface. analogy = 1 servo for both ailerons in the middle of the wing. 120 degree - ECCPM computer mixed (denoted as CDE[indirect levers] or SE[direct control]). you have the power of 3 'Matched' + computer mixed servos moving the swashplate. analogy = 2 servos on each wing for ail/flap for a total of 4 servos in dual or push pull format accomplishing the same thing. mixed Vtail to accomplish rudder/elev, etc the upside of 120 degree ECCPM direct (i only refer to direct style) is the simplicity IMO worth it if you set it up correctly. the whole system has few linkages and mechanical mixing to save weight and SPACE on a small heli. you MIGHT lose some accuracy in the mixing depending on the setup/hardcore/software. the argument used to be that servos take too much damage in a crash, but HS65MG's have pretty much solved that disadvantage. the proper mixing of the swashplate is VERY important. Some radios do it better than others *controversial*. I seriously believe there are radios that shouldn't even be used for a ECCPM heli ie. a DX6 and the derivative JR maybe even some of the budget futaba6 series. the futaba 9CH has the best mixing i have seen so far...i have built hundreds of trex and unfortunately other undesirables, i have seen everything almost. Think about the geometry of a servo arm movement, linkages, and the swashplate points 90,120 when you are trying to move it in a SYNCHRONIZED manner without INTERACTION. you need inverse trig functions to compensate during mixing or the swashplate is going to be whacked. it's already proven the dx6 has the brains of a +-*/ calculator. it is using some stuff like 1 to 1 mixing that is okay to do with a delta wing or vtail wing setup on a parkflier/flying wing zaggi. it makes the trex cde/se fly like a pile of crap but no one believes me lol. they sell standalone Computer programmable mixers that are very complex IE the CSM cylock in order to get perfect ECCPM mixing.
Posted on: 9/4/2007 10:56 PM by Author "jh4db536" in the forum "T-Rex heli"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6328887

RE: Upgrade CP or get a T-Rex?
INTERACTION it happens regardless of the servos used and trust me it wasnt my setup because i was able to reproduce it over and over and make the problem go away simply by switching to a different TX (also used different DX6 systems). you can use digital DS285's or HS65mgs and it will do it the same. i believe it is software limitations related to the DX6 that cause the problem. people actually did scientific studies using high tech instruments to prove it. most people shrugged off the results as something an average pilot wouldnt notice in flight, but i can SEE the interaction when im rolling the cyclic and it's Disgusting. Just roll the cyclic around and the washout will be bouncing up and down especially if you are using a lot of throw and collective (the washout should should not move when you are pounding the cyclic at ANY collective range). The effect in flight is everytime you hit the cyclic, the heli will not maintain altitude. (there are other factors that contribute to this such as wind, cyclic friction, and shift in vector causing a loss of lift) this error prevents it from being perfect, but can be Prevented and thus my argument against the Dx6. a well designed mechanical mixed heli will not have this issue. Even the Trex HDE isnt perfect on the elevator at extreme collective (hence they use that compensating arm between the colective lever and the frame)...elevator will pull forward at extreme negative pitch and push backward at extreme positive pitch due to geometry of the linkages and servo positions. IMO the Futaba 9C has one of the most accurate mixes JR9303 is probably the best overall for features and ease of use.
Posted on: 9/3/2007 3:26 AM by Author "jh4db536" in the forum "T-Rex heli"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6320741

RE: Upgrade CP or get a T-Rex?
DX6 sucks for the trex...the ECCPM 120* swash doesnt mix correctly. It's something you wont notice unless youve flown both or know setup really well. i have attempted to prove this from when it was first released and now people are starting to believe me now that it can be compared with something that works Right like the dx7, the DX7 doesnt have this problem, but it isnt a perfect either. i think the software/firmware in it has some bugs; however, nothing that will cause you to lose control of the model. i still recommend the DX7 despite the issues. im not even going to bother with the range issue. the DX6 has enough range for a trex450...600 is a different story. the DX6 faults in the ECCPM area and that is the fundamental controls of the model therefore i would stay clear of it.
Posted on: 9/2/2007 2:15 AM by Author "jh4db536" in the forum "T-Rex heli"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6317070

RE: T-Rex 450 With G770 3D GYRO
itll be too heavy, the 401 + 9650 is already too heavy. it's the most popular combo...it's not the only choice, but it's the safest because it works for most people. a digital standard servo + tail duty on a mini heli and you will burn the ESC/BEC. if you want to go off brand try the logictech2100/hitec gyro /w matched servo. you could also try CSM420ME, 560, or 720 series. instead of 9650 you could use the JR3400G
Posted on: 8/11/2007 10:31 AM by Author "jh4db536" in the forum "T-Rex heli"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6224135

RE: New AXI trex size motor review
interesting...i'd like to see some flightlog graphs $ 76.90 AXI 2217/5Heli- T-Rex 450, Mini Titan features: * Weight: 68,5 g * Measures: 27,7 x 35 mm (d x l) * No. of cells: 3 LiPo * Max. efficiency: 85 % * Max. efficiency current: 15 - 27 A (>75 %) * Current capacity: 34 A/ 60 s * Shaft diameter: 3,17 mm * RPM Range: 3000 Quickfind code 221705H [image]http://www.mscompositusa.com/editor/image/eshop_products/221705h_m.jpg[/image]
Posted on: 8/5/2007 8:25 PM by Author "jh4db536" in the forum "T-Rex heli"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6200435

RE: can this charger be used for the 2200 20c for t-rex????
you shouldnt charge a lipo faster than 1c or it wont last long. 1c or 1 hour charge time is considered a FAST charge for a lipo from normal discharged state ~11volts. 1 to 1.5amp for a 2200mAH is more appropriate. Nimh/NiCd fare better at fast charging...
Posted on: 8/4/2007 8:03 PM by Author "jh4db536" in the forum "T-Rex heli"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6196959

RE: MaH flight time? how to tell??
it's not relative...this is why brand and quality matters. mAH gives little indication of flight time. current (amp) draw changes in flight constantly. a 430XL trex motor is probably drawing between 15-20 amps in hover (there's no real way to tell unless you have a data recorder ie eagletree logger). the mAH rating on a battery is pretty much the current you can get out of a the battery and be dead in exactly 1 hour. so 2200mAH means you can drain it at 2.2amps for 1 hour and it will be COMPLETELY or VERY dead (NOT CONSIDERING LIPO or MODEL CUTOFFS). Now to complicate matters worst, lipos have their 3.0/cell damage threshold cutoff and helicopters usually dont fly too as they start dying. Therefore, the USABLE mAH is actually more like 1500 for example. Some batteries don't hold up very well when high current is pulled from them and the capacity seems to be less. This is why C ratings make a big difference. So 20C in a 2200mAH lipo is 40amps MAX (the 430XL probably gets 50+amp spikes...i assume which is why the align battery puffs with it). 20C means nothing basically except HOW it is rated. this is why some batteries like TP extreme or Flightpower are better for some people depending on how you fly. then there's battery efficiency...when load is applied, volts drop. The more load applied the more volts drop. cheap batteries will drop voltage Fast when current is applied (maybe even less than their C rating). They will start to degrade in this area a LOT and lose consistency. batteries get hot which increases the resistance and you lose even more efficiency it also damages the lipo cells (usually the middle cell which is the least airflow and you get lipo imbalance and eventual death.
Posted on: 8/4/2007 7:59 PM by Author "jh4db536" in the forum "T-Rex heli"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6196949

RE: post your set-ups!
SEv2 HS65MG cyclics DX7/AR6100 CSM420ME gyro HS81 Digitalized on tail Align35X ESC NEU1105/3Y on 12t Align CF blades (SAB knocks) Triton2 mods: NSK 1way HDX/3DX belt Silicon Fueltube Dampers
Posted on: 8/2/2007 11:01 AM by Author "jh4db536" in the forum "T-Rex heli"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6187412

RE: Tail Gear flew apart..Starting to DIS-like Align
When you try an SE and then go back to something less, youll see what i mean.
Posted on: 8/1/2007 6:12 PM by Author "jh4db536" in the forum "T-Rex heli"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6184838

RE: HELP ME PLEEEEASE
it's So hard to explain this over the internet, id have to show you. don't use revo mix if you have a HH gyro it's pointless to tell you the settings of a 6102...i used to have a 6102 traded it for a DX7 which is exactly the same menus with more resolution LCD and improved Normal Thr 0-65-80-80-80 (AFTER programming ESC) Idle1/2 Thr 100-100-100-100-100 Normal & Hold Pitch 40-inh-50-inh-100 Idle1/2 Pitch 0-inh-50-inh-100 (-11* to +11*) travel adjust - default, ch5(gyro gain) 50/50 ECCPM - 50-50-50 (servo horn outtermost hole, approx 8* cyclic pitch) dont do this if youre new. the trex has a roll and flip rate that makes the CPpro feel less squirrelly d/r & expo all default reverse, pretty much ch2/3/6 might be reversed to make the swashplate move the right way depending on what servo you plugged into CH2/6 subtrims: Ch2/3/6 added before ANY linkages are sized. according to swashplate level and height tool. as you can see, the settings are mostly default because i BUILT the heli and linkages around these settings Not according to the instructions. from the servos, to the swashplate, to the microlinks, to the macrolink adjustment
Posted on: 7/31/2007 12:47 PM by Author "jh4db536" in the forum "T-Rex heli"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6179092

RE: newb help.
good for planes, bad for a trex which requires ECCPm 120* swashmix (dx6 HAS this feature but it is VERY weak and crappy) i am NOT implying that the dx6 wont get a trex off the ground. get a DX7 microlite system.
Posted on: 7/31/2007 12:28 PM by Author "jh4db536" in the forum "T-Rex heli"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6179046

RE: newb help.
v1 is light blue metal, plastic canopy, fake cf paddles v2 has dark blue metal w/ unique blade grips & headhub (4mm spindle upgrade + thrust bearings), comes with a fiberglass canopy, dark blue 3 piece maingear (4 lug hub), different bearing blocks (gyro mount underneath tailboom), 2 piece pulley block for easy servicing. telebee gyro sux, align gyro sux, efliteG90 sux get a GY401, logictech2100, CSM 420ME or better w/ S9650 or JR3400 servo the DS285 servos (super accurate and digital) that come with the dx7 microlite used to be the best servos until the HS65MG came out. the HS65MG are almost invinsible servos and that's why i recommend them to a beginner. the DS285 are one of the most fragile servos out there and a minor crash will probably break them all at once. if youre referring to the DX6 stay clear. the DX6 sux for ECCPM and the S75 servos are weak and flimsy...they will make the trex so hard to fly therefore for beginner you gotta get the better stuff...see the trend? the DN charger is okay, but limiting. look into a triton2, astroflight109, or Thunderpower1010. the astroflight is probably the best bang for the buck lithiumwise. triton2 is useful because it will charge all types of batteries, but won't cut it for anything more than 5s, 1010 is the Ultimate lithium charger but will cost a pretty penny the mx400 on realflight g3 is supposed to be very close to a trex if expertly setup, the trex can fly as nice as the dominion90.
Posted on: 7/31/2007 12:24 PM by Author "jh4db536" in the forum "T-Rex heli"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6178958

RE: 450seV2 flybar lengh
190mm is fine and you probably wont notice the difference unless you are flying insane 3d. they upgraded to 220 "supposedly" to make it more stable and increase/maintain cyclic rate under constant thrashing. arguments have been made that shorter flybar is better for 3d, but i think the longer flybar is better.
Posted on: 7/31/2007 12:18 PM by Author "jh4db536" in the forum "T-Rex heli"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6179009

RE: Hm, any info on converting/using a standard Batt charger?
use a pc power supply. i didnt even go that far to bother with ripping it out of an old computer. i disconnected everything except the motherboard and power on/off switch. stripped a yellow wire for 12v. 1 clip there and 1 on the case for ground. you gots an easy 12v regulated right there. all you do is turn the comp on and your charger is powered. turn it off to shut it all off. http://www.techmodelproducts.com/Homemade_PS.htm
Posted on: 7/30/2007 8:28 PM by Author "jh4db536" in the forum "T-Rex heli"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6176224

RE: Trex owner inputs please
if youre going to buy a trex u gotta buy the best otherwise youre wasting your time. that means SEv1 or 2, GY401/Logictech2100 + 9650/3400, HS65MGs/DS285's, and a decent tx/rx ie DX7, JR 6k and up series, etc SEv2 all the way. fly it stock and enjoy. don't end up like this http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_6173385/tm.htm
Posted on: 7/30/2007 8:24 PM by Author "jh4db536" in the forum "T-Rex heli"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6176200

RE: Tail Gear flew apart..Starting to DIS-like Align
should've got an SE. any praise that i give align or the Trex doesnt apply to all models. anything less than an SEv1 is Inferior...and yeah, i said INFERIOR. align should rid their entire budget product line and only sell the SE because that's where their dominance lies. im sorry you had to find out the hard way. i guess you have an excuse to upgrade everything to metal now.
Posted on: 7/30/2007 8:15 PM by Author "jh4db536" in the forum "T-Rex heli"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6176145

RE: SE V2 Kit Quality
well i built so many trex that i could do it with my eyes closed. i can get the ball park link lengths pretty much by looking at it. the 1) servos centered and subtrimmed level for good geometry, left stick centered on default curves 2) level the swash and it sets the correct height, adjust links to this tool 3) washout should be level/flatline therefore adjust the 2 flybar cage links 4) macro links should have a about 3-4 twists away from touching 5) adjust micro links to the pitch gauge=0deg 6) setup max/min collective pitch using default curves, adjust pitch ECCPM% 7) setup cyclic pitch of approx 6deg, adjust ail/ele ecppm% (phase blades at 12/6 and 3/9oclock) the heli will track perfectly and have minimal eccpm interaction at this point, i don't even have to fly it to know it'll come out good. as for the dampers, i replaced mine with fuel tubing before i ever spun it up. they dont last long especially if youre flying hard. hard 3d will probably kill it in ONE flight. if i have to mass produce RTF Trex for the store, this is how i do it. I do it on a consistent basis, and it always comes out perfect.
Posted on: 7/26/2007 1:06 PM by Author "jh4db536" in the forum "T-Rex heli"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6159159

RE: SE V2 Kit Quality
personally, i install the electronics before i build the Trex [:)] ie, i install the servos before the upperframe goes into the bottomframe so i can tear the bearing block off and route the wires inside the frame. i use a swashplate level tool instead of measuring the linkages. i build all the head linkages with according to a pitch gauge rather than measuring the links. i finish the tail before i attach it to the heli. without the 401 (will be the same as non avcs mode), i setup the servo and its mechanical center and then plug in the 401 to adjust the limit pot. btw, if you want to make ball links easy, use an exacto knife stick the tip into the bottom, give it a good twist, and then the rods will thread effortlessly. you shouldn't need instructions to build an SE... btw, the stock dampers aren't so durable. i would upgrade them with the aftermarket or silicon fuel tubing as they will probably only last 10 flights if even that. Pay VERY close attention to the belt tension on a new trex align belts need kind of a break in or they WILL snap. They stretch in the beginning and you need to run it a little tighter than normal until it does then you adjust it until it is good. you'll know if you snap one. buy the HDX/3DX450 aftermarket clone belts which are made by GATES or MS. id run the heli without blades for a good 5 minutes before flying it just to stretch the belt and make sure it's tensioned correctly. the belt should almost be able to touch the other side if you press it with a tip of a screwdriver 1.5cm away from the pulley. use the smaller pinion on the 430XL. i would cut a flatspot in the shaft of the motor so the pinion doesnt slip or fly off.
Posted on: 7/26/2007 12:45 PM by Author "jh4db536" in the forum "T-Rex heli"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6159086

RE: will an align 500 hh work on a blade cp?
the align hh gyro is a pile just like the eflite g90. dont waste your money. it has MAD temp drift for one thing, 2nd it really doesnt work optimally with a tail motor. if you want improved flying, the best upgrade is a real heli Tx ie DX7 heli microlite. the STOCK gyro 4in1 mixer works awesome when dialed in and combined with programmable mixing dialed in, it will probably be better than a HH on BCP. the DD tail upgrade is awesome if you can get it to last long by investing in the Correct motor that can handle higher voltage. with this tx you will be able to dial the twitchiness away from the BCP as well as improve ECCPM cyclic and colective accuracy. you will have Thr and pitch curves to get it to fly the way YOU want. finally when you upgrade to a heli worth upgrading ie trex, dragonus, raptor, synergy, etc you will have a perfectly capable Tx for it already.
Posted on: 7/25/2007 11:47 AM by Author "jh4db536" in the forum "T-Rex heli"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6154409

RE: Upgrade CP or get a T-Rex?
if youre going to do the Trex, go the whole mile and get the SEv2. itll cost a little over 1g for the complete package, but itll be worth it at your skill level. if you can fly the BCP, the trex SE will be easy. if you can Almost nose in with the CP you CAN with the trex for sure. logictech gyro, 9650, DX7 microlite heli + SEv2 (motor, esc, & lipo included) 100 + 60 + 335 + 540 = a little over 1g retail (if you have connections this is about 700 at cost ;)) that is probably the cheapest and best flying combo. normally i recommend the HS65MG servos, but the DS285s are excellent and already come with the dx7 package, just a little fragile. Will save u 35/servo to start with. logictech is proven to perform in the same class as a 401 and it's quite a bit cheaper. You wont regret it.
Posted on: 7/25/2007 11:24 AM by Author "jh4db536" in the forum "T-Rex heli"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6154332

RE: First loop attempt ... first BIG crash
look at That...still in 1 piece. if it were Any other model besides a SE v1 or v2, it would be Totalled. the SE paid for itself already. a spindle, mainshaft, some new blades, struts and the thing will be ready to fly for like $30. if you put in an SA, it would probably need an entire head and possibly tail assembly. XL frame might crack on impact.
Posted on: 7/25/2007 11:12 AM by Author "jh4db536" in the forum "T-Rex heli"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6154299

RE: Lets see those Trex pictures!
been busy...like no life extreme. sold the Entire fleet and now im back to a single heli after 1 year of working within the industry. no mistake on this time around. [image]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v242/jh4db536/DSCF1126.jpg[/image] [image]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v242/jh4db536/DSCF1124.jpg[/image]
Posted on: 7/17/2007 2:25 PM by Author "jh4db536" in the forum "T-Rex heli"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6122486

RE: Auto rotation?
it takes balls and major skills to auto a mini heli, but it can be done. blade inertia and lift efficiency is a major factor. VBlades auto very well as do those heavy abs plastic blades (watch for boomstrike though). you should cut the motor at preferably high headspeed. always auto into the wind. in a mini heli ie trex to auto straight down >20feet is VERY hard to do if you arent pro. you must blip negative pitch (so it decends very fast because residual rpm depends on time) and then go to zero to conserve as much headspeed as possible (might even need to keep it in negative depending on altitude), and feed positive literally 1 foot before hitting the floor while stalling the heli to catch the wind you must level out or even nose down right as you hit the floor or you will have a boomstrike. you got 1 shot to do it correctly, or you will probably wreck. the downward speed also, will help slow the heli when you stall it. FFF is much easier with the trex and realistic. basically FFF and approach like a plane, thr hold, go to zero pitch immediately, glide the heli in, about 3feet from the floor stall the heli at zero pitch (will slow the heli down drastically while preserving headspeed), then level out and feed positive pitch. usually what happens is the heli will slide on the skids to a stop if you do it on a smooth surface. it might bounce a little, but you have to do it right.
Posted on: 11/20/2006 11:49 AM by Author "jh4db536" in the forum "Electric RC Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5018435

RE: X400 using T-Rex main rotors
you need everything above the washout. so that's main hub, seesaw, upper mixing arms, flybar cage, blade grips w/ 3 baerings and spacer, feather shaft, and maybe a flybar. might as well just get a whole trex metal head combo (swashplate up complete). it would be worth it.
Posted on: 11/11/2006 12:57 PM by Author "jh4db536" in the forum "Electric RC Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4982846

RE: T-rex 450x ccpm
i am referring to the NEW 450X...not the old gray frame X (pile of $_T). the new X is the same thing as an XL with a 2cm shorter boom and belt. ALL parts are interchangable on the newest X and XL. The X cannot use blades larger than 315mm, while the XL, SA, SE can use up to 335mm. look into the 450SA, it's like $200 and comes pre assembled...the extra money spent over the XL is actually very worth it...it's a very good deal. the XL and X are the same design. the SA/SE are a major step up from the XL - modular aluminum/CF frame and metal bits. [image]http://www.horizonhobby.com/ProdInfo/Gallery/Stock-chassis.jpg[/image]
Posted on: 11/8/2006 2:30 PM by Author "jh4db536" in the forum "Electric RC Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4970961

RE: Another New Guy Looking to get into flying an RC Heli
i only mention it because graphics aside, XTR actually flies like the real heli (or at least the trex model does). G3 feels very fake IMO (Forward flight characteristics dont feel right). i thought of g3 as g2 with better graphics. i did not learn to fly on a sim. in fact i dont even have one myself, but when i had the opportunity to compare my friends' XTR to G3 i knew immediately which one is better. if i were looking for it a sim for myself, i would get Xtr. cerritos..not bad. you should check out both heli for yourself. both heli are pretty hyped up by strong marketing campaigns and such, but you dont know until you see it in person. i fly on fridays and weekendswith a group of other heli pilots at the rosebowl, come check it out if you have time.
Posted on: 11/8/2006 2:06 AM by Author "jh4db536" in the forum "Electric RC Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4969326

RE: T-rex 450x ccpm
450X is basically an XL with a short tail boom and belt. it's the latest generation of 450X; therefore, it is just as reliable as any other 450XL. i think the new 450SA is a better deal (metal in critical areas, SE style frames/direct swashplate control, etc).
Posted on: 11/8/2006 1:43 AM by Author "jh4db536" in the forum "Electric RC Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4969278

RE: Another New Guy Looking to get into flying an RC Heli
a BCP is MUCH harder to fly than a trex...in fact, the two heli arent even at the same level. when they say "if you can fly a BCP, you can fly anything" they arent joking. i have problems flying a BCP, that's how hard it is (compared to my trex or even my hornetx3d). trex SE is much more expensive (in the short run) and so are the components that are needed. Setup for a noobie can be extremely difficult and the trex will fly like crap if setup wrong. since the BCP is rtf, you wont have this problem until you wreck it the first time. even then, the proprietary electronics doesnt really prepare you for programming an actual computer radio (pitch curves, swashmix, etc). pick your poison. i think XTR reflex is a better 'simulator' than G3 is. cost is about the same. getting "experienced" assistance is crucial if you want to make it. I have setup trex to the point where, the owner could hover their first pack with no experience. where in CA are you located?
Posted on: 11/8/2006 1:37 AM by Author "jh4db536" in the forum "Electric RC Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4969263

RE: antenna best way to have it?
dean's...no hassle stick it on and forget about it. it works great. [IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v242/jh4db536/a6bdf7de.jpg[/IMG]
Posted on: 9/25/2006 1:52 AM by Author "jh4db536" in the forum "T-Rex heli"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4789554