RE: Multiplex LN-5014 Charger Ships & Review
Dan - you can get a 12 amp Pyramid power supply for about $40. I've read several posts about using an old computer power supply. I chose not to go this route because I did not want to take the risk to save the $40.
Posted on: 11/1/2007 3:18 PM by Author "jkkrobbins" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6567803

RE: Multiplex Easy Star, construction, flight report
I used to say the same thing about only flying the Easy Star on the calmest days. When I first started, a similar thing happened. I was trying to land with the plane downwind from me and I couldn't quite bring it back. It stalled and crashed but with some CA glue, it's still flying now 18 months and over 100 flights later. Over the next couple of months I got braver and started taking it higher and higher and further out. On an almost calm day, I had it several hundred yards upwind and pointed into the wind. A storm started blowing in and soon this gentle breeze was 15 MPH plus. The plane turned around and flew quickly downwind and over my head. I got it pointed back into the wind toward me and tried to power it against the wind. The same thing happened - stall, and it even turned away and started flying further away and down wind. Luckily, the plane was about 1000 feet high so I tried something different. I turned the throttle off. I knew I would need to save the battery so I simply put it in a shallow dive which provided the forward progress needed and was much more effective than trying to power against the wind. I've since flown in 15 MPH winds many times. Having the LiPo makes a difference. More run time and it turns the motor a little faster. It's fun getting the plane to hover in the wind. And the head wind makes for a real easy landing and enables landing on a smaller target. I've also added some weight to the nose. Even when the plane seemed balanced, I noticed the same tendency for it to nose up. Keep flying. I think with more experience you'll find that it handles the wind better than you'd expect. Eventually you may crash and destroy the foam but it's only about $50 for a new kit. But I do agree 100% about trying to use the motor to fight the wind. The more power you give it, the more it wants to climb and just stall, as well as make it easier to turn aound and start going down wind. (Thus the nose weight I added) Throttle off and down elevator works much better. Just get it high and pretty far out and keep it up wind. Don't let it get down wind until you get some serious altitude. This will also help with the disorientation thing. With ample height, you'll see how the plane reacts to stick movements and have more time to adjust. I started off wanting to keep the plane lower but eventually learned to let it soar and let the altitude be a friend.
Posted on: 9/26/2007 1:21 AM by Author "jkkrobbins" in the forum "Electric Training"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6414902

RE: Multiplex Easy Star, construction, flight report
rcsmart.com
Posted on: 9/23/2007 8:49 PM by Author "jkkrobbins" in the forum "Electric Training"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6405331

RE: Multiplex Easy Star, construction, flight report
The Easy Star totally rocks. I started with the Hobbico Superstar EP a couple years ago. Having never flown, it took about 10 seconds to turn it into splinters. After a few lessons and dollars spent, I can fly it, but a friend suggested the Easy Star to learn on before going back to a traditional trainer. I bought the Easy Star kit and went with 7 cell 1100 mAh NiMh packs. With no help, I started flying immediately. It took a few bad landings and smacking into things to get the feel of it but the plane survived. With the help of a little CA glue, I was always back in the air minutes after a crash. I started flying higher and higher and eventually learned to let the thermals do the work. However, the battery packs were wearing out before I was ready to land. Shortly thereafter, I bought a couple of 2 cell 4000 LiPo packs for $35 each from China. On a hot Texas summer day, I had no problem staying in the air over an hour. My longest flight was about an hour and 45 minutes. Almost 2 years later, and this plane still flies great. In fact, it's probably comprised of more CA glue now than foam but it flies beautifully. Still using the stock motor. I've considered putting a brushless in it but really don't see the point, considering the long flight times. I have no qualms about giving the stick to kids and letting them take a spin. I've taught a few to fly this way. Just give them the stick, and let them crash and learn. A little more CA, and back in the air she goes. I've flown other planes and have not seen a plane that's better for a beginner to learn and build confidence. The durability to withstand crashes is a huge plus. Also, it handles wind better than I thought. I've flown in winds up to 15 MPH. I like pointing the plane into the wind and letting it basically hover. The only negative, if you would call it that, is that the stock motor, even with a LiPo, does not provide excessive speed or climb rate. But that's not an issue at all for me. The durability and stability more than make up for this. On days when I have just a few spare minutes, I can grab the Easy Star and get in a quick flight when the other planes sit on the shelf. The Easy Star couldn't be easier to transport, get flight ready, and taken apart to take back home.
Posted on: 9/18/2007 12:12 AM by Author "jkkrobbins" in the forum "Electric Training"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6381995

RE: Multiplex Easy Star, construction, flight report
Found a bundle of 25 on ebay once for about $1 per prop.
Posted on: 7/28/2007 12:11 PM by Author "jkkrobbins" in the forum "Electric Training"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6166806

RE: Multiplex Easy Star, construction, flight report
tejako - can you post the link or tell me where to get the $10 brushless motor?
Posted on: 7/20/2007 11:20 PM by Author "jkkrobbins" in the forum "Electric Training"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6137085

RE: Multiplex Easy Star, construction, flight report
You can learn yourself. Just toss it into the wind a few times and practice landing it. Then add a little power. Eventually, you'll be able to fly a lap in an open area. You might hose a landing or two but you won't ruin the plane. With a very minimal amount of assistance from an experienced pilot, you'll be cruising in no time.
Posted on: 7/20/2007 11:19 PM by Author "jkkrobbins" in the forum "Electric Training"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6137078

ESC Caught on Fire
First question - how common is this? I've seen esc's get hot enough before where they melt the plastic and no longer work. But I had an unpleasant surprise last weekend. I have a Hobbico Superstar EP. I took out the POS stock motor and battery and replaced with a brushless. The thing has been flying sweet. Anyway, when I first got to the field, I turned on the transmitter and hooked up the battery. I slid the throttle switch to full power and the motor turned at full speed for an instant then the speed drastically reduced, at which time I saw a spark in the esc. Quicker than I could slide the throttle all the way back, the esc had a flame coming out of it several inches tall. Since the wings were not on the plane, I was able to blow it out. So why did this happen? I've measured current draw at max power and the system pulls about 25 Amps. The esc was the mystery 45A. Is that the problem - the Chinese knock off cheap brand? I bought an Electrifly esc and it's much heavier and larger, but I'm willing to make the sacrifice for reliability if that was the problem. I tried it the other night and so far so good. I was also told something could have shorted to cause this. Does a flaming esc always mean something shorted, or could I have just had a bad esc?
Posted on: 7/5/2007 3:18 PM by Author "jkkrobbins" in the forum "Brushed/Brushless motors, speed controls, gear drives"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6074246

RE: Can't make Yellow Bee fly. Help!
Some people may not agree, but I have enough experience with planes like this to tell you - trust me, the solution to your problem is to trash this plane. Like most cheap 2-CH planes, it does not do well with more than the slightest breeze. The turns are upredictable at best. And the big whammy - you have no elevator control. This plane is simply too flimsy. It's OK for a child to smack into the side of a bulding or tree. But it's a throw away. Cut your losses. Spend no more time or money on this plane or anything like it. Purchase a 3-CH foamy such as the Multiplex Easy Star. Much more durable and reliable. Start by practicing short flights and getting used to actually having some elevator control. Do some tosses into the wind with no throttle and practice gliding. You'll see the effects of adjusting the CG. (Which by the way is the cause of the yellow bee issue - you probably started tail heavy then stalled and you had no control - no way to keep the nose down.) Up front, it will cost you more, but in the long run, you'll have something that lasts longer and reusable equipment. Else, you'll end up buying another cheap 2-CH toy and getting the same results.
Posted on: 7/5/2007 2:39 PM by Author "jkkrobbins" in the forum "Electric Training"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6074131

RE: Harbor Freight Wild Hawk and Helicopter
I noticed the same things about the Wild Hawk. I also own 2 Easy Stars and the Wild Hawk seems to be a cheaper knockoff. However, it's a cheap way to start in the hobby to get 3-CH RTF for $69. The rudder was too dinky to to have any authority in the turns so I taped on a piece of balsa to give more throw. I also found the motor and prop to be under powered. I replaced the motor and prop with the motor and prop used in the Easy Star. Unfortunately, at full throttle setting, the motor delivers less power than the Easy Star at full power. I suspect it's the difference between using the cheap stock esc versus the Pixie I use in the Easy Star. The tail is flimsy and needed some glue to stiffen it. I also found that the motor needed some down thrust. When the power was cut, the nose would drop like a rock. Though it's 27-MHZ, I'd say it's worth the money if you have some building and modification skills. Considering it's just a few bucks more than the Easy Star kit and you get the receiver, radio, and 2 servos, not a terrible deal. One thing about the servos, they seem real slow. Also, the built in foam hinges are bad. They were creating a slight bind and started to break off pretty quickly. So I cut the control surfaces off, sanded the edges, and made taped hinges. Another thing I'm unsure of. I don't know how to program the speed controller. I'm using a 2 cell LiPo and don't know what the cutoff voltage of the esc is. I'm considering spending the $20 or so and putting in a Pixie. Then the plane would be close to an Easy Star.
Posted on: 6/23/2007 1:43 AM by Author "jkkrobbins" in the forum "Park Flyers & Backyard Flyers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6022996

RE: Multiplex Easy Star, construction, flight report
It's true what you say about brushless. Certainly you would get greater battery efficiency with a brushless motor in the Easy Star. While there's no downside to going brushless, I still say it would be overkill. Another thing to think about is the cost of the stock motor. I bought a couple for $5 each. Recently, I ordered 5 for $12. Yes, the brushes burn out every few months with very heavy use. Replacement is no problem but brings to light the one area for improvement with the Easy Star - the way the motor is mounted. To replace the motor, you have to cut the halves apart, glue the new motor in, and resolder, etc... (Though I have seen postings where folks have built hatches and other means to make the motor even more accessible.) That said, I couldn't be happier with the Easy Star, using the stock motor and propellor with a 2 cell 4000 mAh LiPo. I will be purchasing brushless stuff at some point in the future. But I'll be putting in the Hobbico Super Star. That plane needs it much more, as the run times are low with the stock NiCD batteries and only improved slightly with NiMh. The LiPo brushless upgrade would buy me much more in that plane. Again, absolutely nothing wrong with putting brushless in the Easy Star. Only dollars. I'm saying upgrade something that needs it more. The Easy Star is such a sweet plane as it is that my humble opinion is that brushless is not required. Try it with the stock motor and a 2 cell LiPo (like I said, 4000 mAh and it should still be tail heavy). You can always upgrade. I think you'll be very impressed.
Posted on: 2/8/2007 1:34 AM by Author "jkkrobbins" in the forum "Electric Training"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5387552

RE: Multiplex Easy Star, construction, flight report
I have not yet purchased anything brushless so I can't knock it. However, I would say that for the Easy Star, brushless would be overkill. You can run with the stock motor and propellor and a 2 cell 4000 mAh LiPo. This will run 30 minutes on full power. If you're going for height, the plane will be WAY up there within about 3 minutes. Like I said earlier, with throttle management and a few thermals, you'll be dead tired and ready to land before the battery drains down. So no need to put the money into the Easy Star. Put the brushless into another plane that really needs it! A friend of mine put in a brushelss and a huge 3 blade prop and his Easy Star and it zips around quite fast. But I didn't buy the Easy Star for speed. I bought it for simplicity, ease of learning, crash durability, long flights, etc... For the cost of a brushless motor and esc, you can get several of the LiPo's I've mentioned. (Trust me, the "Chinese LiPo's" are fine due to the low discharge rate required.)
Posted on: 2/6/2007 7:56 PM by Author "jkkrobbins" in the forum "Electric Training"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5381290

RE: Multiplex Easy Star, construction, flight report
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Posted on: 2/5/2007 11:48 PM by Author "jkkrobbins" in the forum "Electric Training"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5377530

RE: Multiplex Easy Star, construction, flight report
I think it's a 6 cell 600 mAh NiCD. With some funky third world connection. I snipped that junk off and soldered a Dean's on and got a 2 cell 4000 mAh LiPo. And STILL had to add some nose weight to balance the darn thing! (No kidding, with throttle management and thermals, I have stayed in the air as long as 1 hour and 40 minutes.) I bought the LiPo from China for $35, including shipping. Had it over a year, no problems. I bought another one a few months ago. Worth every penny! As far as the battery that comes with the plane, either throw it away, unless you need a paper weight.
Posted on: 2/5/2007 11:48 PM by Author "jkkrobbins" in the forum "Electric Training"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5377524

RE: Multiplex LN-5014 Charger Ships & Review
Is it worth burning your house down to save $50? Just get the power supply.
Posted on: 1/11/2007 9:33 PM by Author "jkkrobbins" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5250852

RE: How's this new ElectriStar RTF from Hobbico?
What kind of flight times did you get?
Posted on: 1/5/2007 11:28 AM by Author "jkkrobbins" in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5214372

RE: How's this new ElectriStar RTF from Hobbico?
8-12 minutes at full throttle. Followed by a 90 minute charge time for LiPo's. I don't see the point.
Posted on: 12/3/2006 7:39 PM by Author "jkkrobbins" in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5071381

RE: How's this new ElectriStar RTF from Hobbico?
Unless I misunderstand or miscalculate, Hobbico will miss the mark badly. This will not win anyone over to electric. The claim to have the equivalent power of a .40 sized trainer. What will the run time be? 12 minutes maybe with LiPo's? Then 90 minutes to charge the batteries, and that's IF you have a charger that will charge more than one pack at a time. I am not a fan of Glow at all, but you know what - it's much quicker to pump in a couple ounces of fuel! One thing I noticed - the radio is 4-EXA, which is a huge upgrade over the 4-YTF or 4-YBF which usually comes with these trainers.
Posted on: 12/2/2006 11:56 AM by Author "jkkrobbins" in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5065994

Multiplex Easy Star Interference Issue
Has anyone ever experienced an interference/glitching issue with the Easy Star? I'm using a Futaba 3-CH radio and Futaba R-114 receiver (single conversion) Every now and then, the motor skips for a split second. And once or twice per flight during climb, the motor skips a bit longer and the plane tries to roll right. (I can't see it but pretty certain it glitches the servo.) The capacitors are soldered to the motor as they're supposed to. Would a dual conversion receiver such as the Electron 6 fix this problem? Or is there something else that can be done to cut down on the apparent "noise?"
Posted on: 7/18/2006 12:12 AM by Author "jkkrobbins" in the forum "Park Flyers & Backyard Flyers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4514540

RE: Hobbico SuperStar EP Select RTF w/Ailerons
Greg - your suggestion intrigues me. I may be wrong, but I think there's a problem with running a 2 cell LiPo with the stock motor and ESC on the Superstar. Not knowing anything about the ESC that comes with the RTF kit, I asked Hobbico about it - i.e. is it programamable, etc... All they told me was the ESC is not LiPo compatible. Why would they say that? My guess - the cutoff voltage may be set too low. Definitely true for a 3 cell LiPo. But I don't know what the cutoff voltage is or how to program it. The other problem is that the 7 cell that NiCD's that come with the plane suck. Just enough juice to ROG, do one loop, enjoy a 3 minute flight, then land. I upgraded with 8 cell NiMh packs which have about the same rating yet a few ounces lighter and the performance increase is significant. Nevertheless, I'm happy with the performance of the 8 cell packs. Do you think a 2 cell LiPo has enough punch? You're only talking 8.4V-8.5V max and the current draw is pretty high (at least with the stock motor.) Here's my though and where I need your help and where your suggestion interests me. I'm still training and the plane flies great but the flight times are short, so it's takeoff, a couple of loops around the field, buzz the field, circle and land, then change the battery. I want to pluck EVERYTHING out. Battery, ESC, and motor and go with a 3 cell LiPo (or 2 cell?) and brushelss motor. Can you give me a laundry list? And what's this going to cost? BTW - I've run some quick weight numbers and the "bricks" that come with the RTF weigh about 13.5 oz. For that weight LiPo, I think you can get a 5000 mAh with a 3 cell and maybe 7000-8000 mAh with a 2 cell. Do I go for more power or higher capacity? Last question - will the increased efficiency of a brushless motor make up for the difference in voltage and allow a 2 cell LiPo to move as much air with the prop? I've been thinking I need a 3, but after reading your post, I'm wondering if I can go with a 2 cell and bring the run times way up.
Posted on: 6/15/2006 11:49 PM by Author "jkkrobbins" in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4396004

Easy Star Battery Upgrade
I fly a Multiplex Easy Star. I'm using a 7 cell 1200 mAh NiMh now. Considering a 2 cell LiPo to increase run time. But I discovered a potential issue. My 7 cell pulls 10 amps at full throttle. A 2 cell LiPo pulls 7.5 amps and the motor clearly does not turn as fast. Although I will more than triple the run time, the high end power is a concern - i.e. how will it climb? Is there a way to force the battery to send more current to the motor? One though - when the ESC (Pixie) is programmed, one of the steps is to slide the throttle switch to the max position. Can I trick the ESC by sliding the switch to a few clicks short of max? So when I run to true max, the ESC opens up more and allows the 7.4 volts across the motor longer, thereby increasing the motor speed to what it is now with the 8.4V pack? Is this idea feasible, or is there another way to allow the LiPo to discharge at 10 amps and give the motor more kick?
Posted on: 6/11/2006 10:32 PM by Author "jkkrobbins" in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4379826

RE: Easy Star Propellow
Please confirm 2 things for me - 1) when looking at the propeller from the rear, the prop should be turning clockwise. 2) The lettering on the prop should be facing the front of the plane, or not visible when you're looking from the rear. (?)
Posted on: 5/20/2006 1:11 AM by Author "jkkrobbins" in the forum "Electric Training"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4297324

RE: Castle Pixie 20 not working
I had the same problem with the 20 amp Pixie. Been using it in the Easy Star sith a 7 cell NiMh for about 4 weeks, and it burnt up. The motor runs full blast, even with the throttle switch off, and even with the radio off! I have to question their ratings. I say no way the Easy Star pulls close to 20 amps!
Posted on: 4/19/2006 12:29 AM by Author "jkkrobbins" in the forum "Brushed/Brushless motors, speed controls, gear drives"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4182988

Motor/ESC Question
Started with Hobbico Superstar - Futaba radio and receiver, stock motor, esc, etc... Pulled out the receiver and put in the Easy Star with Pixie 20 Amp speed controller. Motor responded to throttle exactly as it should. Eventually, the speed controller fried, so I pulled out the original speed controller from the Hobbico. So now I have the same radio, esc, and receiver combination as the original, only difference is the motor is the Easy Star motor. Full throttle runs the motor at full speed. But it takes about 15 clicks for the motor to come on. Is this a calibration issue, or maybe a voltage cutoff issue? I'm confused since the radio/receiver/esc is all the same as original.
Posted on: 4/17/2006 11:59 PM by Author "jkkrobbins" in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4178698

RE: Multiplex LN-5014 Charger Ships & Review
I was wondering the same thing. After charging NiMH and NiCD at 1C, the batteries will take an extra 90-200 mAH at 0.1C depending on size. Am I hurting the battery? Or will the battery take more if you put it in slowly?
Posted on: 3/29/2006 1:58 PM by Author "jkkrobbins" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4098797

RE: Multiplex LN-5014 Charger Ships & Review
So what will happen if the input cables are reversed? I know if the outputs to the battery are reversed you get an error. But what about the power input? Does it detect this or will it fry?
Posted on: 3/20/2006 10:20 PM by Author "jkkrobbins" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4060963

RE: Multiplex LN-5014 Charger Ships & Review
Besides the "dial and pray" charger I [reviously used, this is the only other charger I've owned. A couple of posts and a few weeks of charging batteries and it's dead simple to use. For the $80 I paid for it, definitely highly recommended. (As opposed to $49 I paid for the Hobbico 900 thanks to my over priced smooth talking hobby shop.) One question (just because I don't want to take chance and try it). If the polarity of the cables to the battery is reversed, the charger detects this. What happens if the cables from the power supply to the charger are reversed? Will this fry the charger?
Posted on: 3/12/2006 12:10 AM by Author "jkkrobbins" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4022564

Easy Star Electronics Troubleshooting.
Bought a Multiplex Easy Star ARF. Using the stock motor and propellor. Purchased a Pixie 20 Amp ESC and GWS nano receiver. The receiver came with a crystal. As I requested, the receiver is coded F for negative shift to work with the transimtter I already have. (3-CH Futaba that comes with the Hobbico Superstar). Got all the electronics wired up and... I turned on the radio. Then I hooked up the battery. The motor emits a continuous beep. According to the troubleshooting guide, this means it's getting no signal. I played with the throttle. I even tried hooking to all the different channels on the receiver. No dice, just continuous beeping. The wire colors match so I don't see a polarity issue. Any thoughts?
Posted on: 3/7/2006 12:24 AM by Author "jkkrobbins" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4001859

RE: Multiplex LN-5014 Charger Ships & Review
I'm not saying the problem is with the charger. I'm suggesting it is in the battery pack itself. The bad connection might be between 2 cells. The pack gets real hot in one spot and cold everywhere else. All the other batteries I tried with the charger (NiCD and NiMh) act like they're supposed to. (Except for the brain fart where I tried to charge a 350mAh NiMh at 5 Amps and the thing almost melted!) I think it's a great charger and real easy to learn. I haven't tried the Triton but I've been told the button pushing is a pain in the butt. Not the case with the Multiplex.
Posted on: 3/4/2006 10:31 PM by Author "jkkrobbins" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3992115

RE: Multiplex LN-5014 Charger Ships & Review
I'm using a Pyramid power supply. I tried charging at the low rates and the battery is detecting a false peak. The pack is cold but gets hot in one spot - where the shrink wrap melted. I'm thinking a bad connection where it's hot?
Posted on: 3/4/2006 10:17 AM by Author "jkkrobbins" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3989779