RE: Hitec X4
Charge at C/10 and discharge at C for NiMH packs. Keep reading the manual, keep reading the blogs, and search the internet - then confirm everything through personal experience. I think I have ruined two NiMH packs trying to learn the correct settings for the X4 and any battery chemistry. Good luck. Mike.
Posted on: 6/28/2012 12:03 PM by Author "jmcowart" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11135307

RE: BIG UGLY STICK AND DLE 20
I like the idea of a DLE 20 and a Big Stik .60 I think that would be a fine first step in gas engines. For those who have already done that, I am curious about the installation. You would use stand-offs between the firewall and the engine, I guess. The ignition system for the DLE would go where the fuel tank is normally located and the tank would be moved back to the radio/servo compartment? The throttle pushrod puzzles me though. How would that be done? Is it practical to relocate the exlisting pushrod that far over to the centerline? Could one of you folks who have already done all this pass along a run-down on how its done in detail? Any pictures would help a relatve newcomer as well, if thats possible. How did you do it? Thanks. Mike.
Posted on: 1/5/2012 1:52 PM by Author "jmcowart" in the forum "Sport Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10893389

RE: Gas RC was a mistake !!!!
Hope this is not off topic, but - Are instructors normally paid for their time and instruction? Is that something that is worked out individually with club-associated instructors? If normally paid, how much is standard or accepted? Thanks guys.
Posted on: 1/5/2012 10:58 AM by Author "jmcowart" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10893102

RE: Pushrod binding - help!
Sounds like maybe the nose wheel is binding. Possibly it is too tight or the set screws are screwed in too tight, or the steering arm is rubbing or binding. If you haven't already done so, i would make sure the entire nose gear is free moving with no binding at all, anywhere. Mike.
Posted on: 11/15/2011 7:11 PM by Author "jmcowart" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10814130

RE: Pushrod binding - help!
Had a smiliar condition and corrected it by slightly bending the pushrod to a permanent curve to match the curvature of the sleeve in which the pushrod moves. Had to be gentle and slowly progressive in the bending so as not to overdo it. Matching the curve made all the difference. Mike.
Posted on: 11/15/2011 10:39 AM by Author "jmcowart" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10813348

RE: Looking to upgrade to a faster more agile rc plane
I would really suggest the Big Stik .60. It fills all your standards, is a great ARF to assemble, and flys like a dream. Low throws it makes a great intermediate step up to a full pattern plane as a next step.. Mike.
Posted on: 11/13/2011 5:07 PM by Author "jmcowart" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10810542

Vertical Stab Slightly Canted
The vertical Stabilizer on the Tower Trainer .60 I am assembling has ended up slightly canted to the right. If I had to estimate, I would say about three degrees from pure vertical. Sad, sad, sad. I tried to get it right. I used builders triangles, eyeball alignment, tape, and also a little bit of prayer. But - it ended up canted just enough to make you feel it if you look at it out of the corner of your eye. I'm not sure what to do about this problem. Should I attempt to cut the vertical stab out of the fuselage? That is cut around the cured epoxy and hope I can get it loose from the horozontal stab directly below? Then of course a patch of balsa and a new slot for a new vertical stab? Or should I just leave it and hope any flight effects can be countered with trims on the DX8? Has anyone had or observed similar problems? Aside from the sick feeling I have had from ruining a beautiful airplane I'm not sure what to do next. There is at least a 50 - 50 chance I will completely destroy the fuselage and horozontal stab if I attempt to remove the slightly canted stab. Considering that, I am inclined to just live with it. I would really appreciate any advice or experience anyone may have..... Thanks, Mike.
Posted on: 11/4/2011 7:27 AM by Author "jmcowart" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10796391

RE: Propeller Fit on O.S. .61FX Crankshaft
Thanks much for putting me on the right path. I have both the SAE and metric reamers, so I just did the 8 mm ream from the rear side of the hub and the prop went on like a dream. Thanks again. The info that the unthreaded portion of the crankshaft is 8 mm was news to me and I'm very happy to learn that. It is, as you say, logical that it is metric, I just didn't think of that as they only describe the crankshaft as "5/16" X 24." On the attempted installation of an O.S. FS-.95V, I tried using lock nut on top, but I just could not fit the nut in and hold it in place. I have used lock nuts on all four retaining bolts with the .61 engine. The original instruction just listed plain No. 4 nuts... I have the throttle linkage completed, gas lines and filters in place and the gas tank siliconed in place. That's right. Silicon out of a squeeze tube, as directed, described, and pictured in the assembly manual. I used no foam padding. Apparently the design counts on the anti-foaming formula of the glow fuel. I have read that the foam is limited to a thin layer next to the tank walls only. I guess I will see. An interesting experiment. But that's what the book says. There is no effective book with the Senior Telemaster I am also working on, and I put about twenty pounds of foam padding all around that tank. Man, I'm just doing the best I can. Next step is to start install of the servos and pushrods, control horns, etc. The instruction manual for the Tower Trainer is excellent and is truly helpful for a novice. I wish the Senior Telemaster had such a great instruction book for the "ARF" assembly. Thanks again to everyone for the instructive and very useful information. Mike.
Posted on: 10/31/2011 8:41 PM by Author "jmcowart" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10791510

Propeller Fit on O.S. .61FX Crankshaft
Selection and fitting of propeller for the O.S. 61 I am installing in a Tower Trainer .60 is causing me grief and frustration. No doubt the great part of this comes from my ignorance and inexperience, but it is none-the-less real from my perspective. I started out to use an O.S. FS-.95V on the trainer. I had one available, and I like the way they sound. It would not fit due only to the fact the the left-side rear mounting screw on the provided generic engine mount is in the same place as the needle valve and it can't be reached. The engine just fit in the provided engine mount and everything was lining up real well - it flat won't work, or at least it is beyond my limited capability to make it work. Perhaps I was just too lazy to change engine mounts and rework the firewall at this stage. I also didn't want to shange carburator around since I had just solved the four stroke throttle linkage jigsaw. Of course then it was necessary to make a trip to the LHS. Purchased one of the engines listed in the instruction book: O.S. .61FX. Selected prop from the middle of the recommended list: 12 X 6. They had APC electric, wood and Windsor Master Airscrew K Propeller glass filled nylon. Best for 4-stroke, but good for 2-stroke also. Bought the K Prop 12 X 6. Got them back - way back - to shop. Engine crankshaft is 5/16" 24. Propeller hole is 1/4" front and 5/16" back. Had to ream it to fit onto the threaded portion of the crankshaft. That is now a 5/16" hole all the way through. And of course it will not go onto the unthreaded portion of the engine crankshaft because it is slightly too small. I sat there in a silent turmoil of frustration about why can't there be standardization and common usages and measurements across the board. Just for a while though. Now I ask for any advice or explanation as to what I should do next. I don't have a drill press or a machine shop. I would be faced with similiar problem with wooden prop, as they have 1/4" hole all the way through. What am I doing wrong? What am I missing? What don't I understand? What other brand prop should I get? Obviously this problems is not a problem to others, and it has doubtless been solved countless times in the past. I just am fuzzed up with the thing right now. Can anyone offer me some simple suggestions or advice to get me back on track? Thank you the chance to vent if nothing else. Happy Halloween. Mike. As my always helpful wife suggested, perhaps I should go out in the front yard and eat worms.
Posted on: 10/30/2011 4:57 PM by Author "jmcowart" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10789837

RE: Four Stroke Engine in Tower Trainer .60
Yes, prop washer that comes with the engine, then every prop nut and jam nut combination possible provided by either O.S. and/or Tru-turn. I will probably end up using the little solid aluminium spinner by Du-bro. I will try the new adapter sent by Tru-Turn tomorrow and I have my fingers crossed that will secure the 2.5 aluminium spinner by Tru-Turn. Mike.
Posted on: 10/21/2011 5:46 PM by Author "jmcowart" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10776718

RE: Four Stroke Engine in Tower Trainer .60
Thanks for the suggestion. I have a Tru-Turn aluminium spinner and back plate. I haven't been able to get it to fit yet. I p;urchased the adapter recommended by the Tru-Turn Company and it didnt fit. Wouldn't tighten enough to snug down the spinner. The company sold me another, shorter, adapter and I tried that as well. It wouldn't fit either. After the next call the Tru-Turn they sent me a no charge adapter and I haven't had a chance to try it out yet. I don't have much confidence in them as of now. Their web site sounds good and the self-proclaimed quality they push sounds good, but my results have been both expensive and frustrating. Nothing has worked as yet. For others, if you are using an O.S. FS-95V, find another aluminium spinner as Tru-Turn hasn't got their act together on this engine yet. Mike.
Posted on: 10/21/2011 3:33 PM by Author "jmcowart" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10776561

RE: Four Stroke Engine in Tower Trainer .60
Thanks for the stimulating discussion and flow if ideas, guys. I believe I will go with the .95 4-stroke. I am indeed member of an AMA Chartered club and have an instructor who is experienced as both a pilot and as an O.S. four stroke operator. The FS-.95V fits great in the provided engine mount that comes with the trainer ARF, and I have made a 180 degree U-turn in the throttle pushrod to provide for clearance of both the firewall and the mount (and the engine cylinder fins, as well). I plan to use the reverse feature on the DX-8 to keep throttle stick movement traditional. I also have a Senior Telemaster ARF (which is the current challenge to, and bane of, my existence). I am also working on that, without experience, instruction, or any degree of luck at all. Now that I have about finished assembling the Tower Trainer I will use the experience and the actual instruction booklet to help me finish the telemaster. I plan another O.S. FS-.95V for that one as well. Finally, I have a Big Stick .60 from Great Planes ARF in the box sitting there ready to go (with plans for another .95 for it). I'm not even going to start on that ARF until I can fly the Tower Trainer and the Senior Telemaster competently. Its all fun though. And I tell you from a novice point of view - it is great thing to have all the talent and experience of you guys on tap as I go along. Thank you very much. Mike.
Posted on: 10/20/2011 4:53 PM by Author "jmcowart" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10775195

Four Stroke Engine in Tower Trainer .60
The Tower Trainer .60 recommends a .61 two stroke engine. I would like to install a four stroke. I have available a new O.S. FS-95V engine. To my novice eye it seems this would not be unreasonable or too much engine for the aircraft. I not only have a four stroke engine available, I prefer the four stroke for sound, and believe I would rther have the torque available instead of high end rpm. Does anyone have opinions on this plan? Any advice or experience you can pass on? I don't think I'm getting ready to mess up, but then again I am a for-sure novice and would very much appreciate any discussion, ideas, suggestions, or anything else on this subject. Thanks you'all. Mike.
Posted on: 10/20/2011 6:46 AM by Author "jmcowart" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10774398

RE: I guess I'm getting better
Yes, the plug is that way. One side squre, one side round. Foolproof. Not idiot proof. Problem was the actual wires from the ESC that connect to the battery, fell out - literally fell out - of the foolproof plug. I thought I put the wires back in the correct holes (Square/Round/+/-) but apparently got them just exactly backwards. When I plugged in to the battery, sparks flew (literally). When installing a new motor and ESC in the Apprentice, I had assembled the plug by soldering the gold plated connectors to the wire then inserted them into the EC3 plastic plug. I did not do a very good job of that, either. So they fell out of the plug and I got them wrong when I put them back in on the way to the flight line Mike.
Posted on: 10/7/2011 5:28 PM by Author "jmcowart" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10753826

RE: I guess I'm getting better
Problem was that it wasn't the LiPO burning, Charlie T. I got the 1350 3S1P LiPO out of the compartment without any apparent damage. It was the ESC or the reciver burning so persistently............ There were some charred remains of the ESC left (I think), but nothing I identified as the receiver - unless I have the debris confused.. I'm inclined toward the Tower Trainer .60 after reading the manual on-line. It is assembled in a fashion that matches the Senior Telemaster I am suffering over right now. There is no effective instruction or manual for assembling that, and the TT .60 experience and manual would line me up nicely to finish the Telemaster..... The TT .60 looks like a good basic plane too. The engine specified for the Tower Trainer .60 is an ABC ringed .61 two stroke. I have two new engines on hand: First the O.S. FS-95V and second a new, old stock, Saito .80 Four Stroke...... I like four stroke engines for the sound if nothing else, so I would like to not use a two stroke if I could help it. What do you'all think of this possible substitution? Am I inviting problems, complications, and trouble? Looks like either the O.S. or the Saito would fit.... Thanks in advance for any opinions or thoughts. Mike
Posted on: 10/7/2011 12:20 PM by Author "jmcowart" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10753365

RE: I guess I'm getting better
I'm glad you are getting better, acdii. I wish I could say the same for myself... Went out to the flying field this morning to fly the Apprentice that I modified with bigger wheels, bigger nose gear, and stronger motor. This was after repairing it following an earlier nose-in crash short of the runway. Today, as I picked up the Apprentice to connect the battery, the EC3 connector fell off the ESC wires. Of course I had installed it as part of the modification (needed bigger ESC with the replacement motor) - a great Phoenix 35 amp. I picked up the EC3 connector plastic piece and plugged the wires back into it - and I did, in fact, do a quick check of the battery EC3 for comparison purposes to be sure I didn't screw up the polarity. You guessed it. I screwed up the polarity and as I connected it to the battery there was an audible pop, visible sparks followed immediately by visible smoke followed immediately by visible flames...... I quickly unvelcroed the LiPO and got it out. Moved burning aircraft out of the pits, threw dirt, etc on flames - without much effect. Finally got the fire smothered and saved the vertical and horozontal stabilizers and the motor. Also saved the airleron servos but not their connectors. Also saved the motor mount. Did I learn a lesson? No. I re-learned a lesson for the no telling how many times and maybe it'll stick this time. I guess its like the old saying, "Measure twice, cut once." I extend that to include "Check polarity twice, put fires out only once." Now what? A friend suggested a Tower Trainer .60, that I can put my O.S. FS-95V into......... any suggestions? (other than to get and keep my head out of my a..)? I would rather have flown into a barn. Mike.
Posted on: 10/7/2011 10:39 AM by Author "jmcowart" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10753242

RE: What is a
Thank everyone very much. I think I have the idea. I have a Senior Telemaster I am working on assembling and if I ever get it done, maybe someday I will use my "Reversed" servo in a future flap installation. Your information and help is much appreciate. Thanks again. Mike.
Posted on: 9/25/2011 6:48 AM by Author "jmcowart" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10733044

What is a "Reversed Servo?"
Reversed Servo in the sense it is sold under that title with "Reversed Servo" labeled on the box. Could someone tell me about this type servo? It's use, and why the need for it? I understand you can reverse servos on transmitters. Using my DX8 I have reversed servos myself. But I don't know why there is needed a commercially available "Reversed Servo." Is this for use in some application, by someone without a transmitter capable of reversing servos? Is there some other purpose of which I am not aware - and believe me, as a raw novice, there is a whole lot of which I am not aware. What would be the application for which it is used? Thanks. Sorry for the uninformed question, but I would like to learn. Mike.
Posted on: 9/24/2011 2:18 PM by Author "jmcowart" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10732217

RE: Senior Telemaster ARF Assembly Problem
Well, its a rubber band arrangement that holds the wing on. All the photos of S.T.s have a smooth and even joining of the wings. I will try all you said and Scar said. I will not rush into the epoxy solution but will have it as a very nice last resort. Thanks again. Mike.
Posted on: 9/21/2011 1:21 PM by Author "jmcowart" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10727744

RE: Senior Telemaster ARF Assembly Problem
Thanks, MinnFlyer. That's a clear and logical process. I will do those things just as you suggest. I appreciate the input. I was getting frustrated. The wings are intended to remain in two parts, to allow easier transport, but if it takes it to get them properly aligned and with correct dihedral and no warp, epoxy them I will. Thank you again. Mike.
Posted on: 9/21/2011 12:28 PM by Author "jmcowart" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10727667

Senior Telemaster ARF Assembly Problem
I am having a problem with the ARF Senior Telemaster wing. When installing the two internal "V-shaped" braces into the wing halves and then sliding the wing together, it does not meet properly. The aft three or four inches is out of line with the opposite wing half. Upon inspection I discovered the internal wing braces are made with one side longer than the other - on both pieces, the long one and the short one. Measuring from the end to the "V" center, one end is almost an inch longer than the other. Something like 10 7/8" on one side and 11 111/4" on the other side of the support. The other support is similarly disproportionate. Does this make the wings not meet and match evenly at the join? It seems like maybe it shouldn't make any difference, as the internal braces should slide into the wing to their middle no matter how far into the wing they go? I am considering cutting off the long end of the braces so they are both equal in length on either side of the "V" bottom. Anyone have any ideas, suggestions, or plain know what the problem is, other than the whole thing being in the hands of a novice, that is....? Thanks very much. Mike.
Posted on: 9/21/2011 9:18 AM by Author "jmcowart" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10727358

RE: Newbie RX problem
Just a guess from another newbie - I would check battery levels in the LiPO and in the TX - a NiMH? Sorry I can't be more help. Good luck. Mike.
Posted on: 9/12/2011 5:12 PM by Author "jmcowart" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10713589

RE: Senior Telemaster (Hobby Lobby) ARF Assembly
Many thanks. I have a little better feel for the problem now. I am prompted to observe that this set of fourms is a great resource. I could have been blundering around in circles then overnight I have a firmer base of knowledge and confidence. Sorry for intruding on the kit builders forum. I thought that this would be the place to find folks who actually knew what they were doing and could pass along a little guidance to a newby. And they did - thanks again. The instructions with the Senior Telemaster from Hobby Lobby are rudimentary, basic, not clear, and the few pictures there are, are fuzzy and unclear. That was one of the reasons it was a bad mistake for a novice to begin with that ARF. Thank you most sincerely for the kind guidance and suggestions. I will proceed. See you in the beginners ARF forum. Mike.
Posted on: 9/12/2011 6:30 AM by Author "jmcowart" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10712612

Senior Telemaster (Hobby Lobby) ARF Assembly
I'm a novice in the RC modeling hobby and chose the Senior Telemaster from Hobby Lobby as a simple and basic-looking project to start my learning curve with....... Bad mistake. The learning curve has been a steep one and I have slowly learned a great deal compared to what I started with anyway. It seems I am always running into a new situation I have to learn from scratch how to deal with. The current situation is planning for engine installation on the Senior Telemaster. I chose an O.S. 91 Four Stroke engine for the Telemaster for a variety of reasons. The first thing I learned was that O.S. 91 Four Stroke engines were not readily available to a novice and through the easily available on-line sources. Some even said "Discontinued." I ended up with an O.S. FS-95V. This engine is listed as having the same mounting holes as the 91, essentially the same mounting size and at a lesser weight with the larger displacement. Sounded good to me and now I have the O.S. FS-95V, My problem now is how to mount it. The S.T. has factory installed hardwood rails already in place and the engine actually drops right in there with a tight fit and with a necessary cut out for the needle valve knob. I have heard of "breakaway plates" but don't fully yet understand their use and purpose. Is it to actually break away from the aircraft in the event of a sudden stop? Or is it a means of providing offset thurst lines right and down? Do I actually need the breakaway plate or can I simply screw the engine mounts to the hardwood rails already there? Does anyone know if the thrust line is taken into account in placement of these engine mounting rails on the Senior Telemaster without a break away plate? Man, I would sure be grateful for some knowledgable advice and discussion on this subject. I've come up on another of those vertical learning slopes in the curve and am stopped for the moment. I have to come to an understanding of what to do about this issue before I can continue and I don't know jack about most of these details. If anyone can help me out I would be most thankful and appreciative. Thank you. Mike.
Posted on: 9/11/2011 6:40 PM by Author "jmcowart" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10712013

RE: Apprentice 15e Modifications
It's a good thing these are tough birds, huh? By the way - thanks, I don't feel so bad now. The remains of the tropical depression have now passed here so I am going to try again with mine. First I must reprogram/rebind to the DX8, check control throws, check balance on the new prop, reinstall the wing. I'm using the same rubber bands, from the tree crash. I ordered more, but they haven't yet arrived. One thing I guarantee though, I WILL stay away from trees and barns. Have a good day. Mike.
Posted on: 9/7/2011 5:36 AM by Author "jmcowart" in the forum "Electric Training"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10705400

RE: Apprentice 15e Modifications
Thanks, acdii - that is a most encouraging post. I just minutes ago walked back in the door after the recovery mission on the Apprentice. Found a tree man (Xxtreme Tree Work is the name), whose climber zipped up the tree, tied a nylon rope around the Apprentice and gently lowered it down to me. Looking around on the ground I found the main landing gear and the propeller with collet still attached. Prop was broken. Collet was not. Some dents on the leading edge where I flew the poor thing into the tree tops, broken prop, and the clevis attaching the nose gear steering pushrod was broken at the servo arm. The beefy 5/32" nose gear didn't even notice anything wrong. The ESC was still beeping when I got back to the tree this morning, and the LiPO was hot and soft. I can't see any damage or problem with the E-Flite Power 15 motor. I expect that was due to the collet coming off soon as the prop hit something. I am going to bind it to my DX8 and use the Expo and every other feature available. The DX5 is currently employed as a door stop. The controls are sensitive, just as you warned, particularly the elevator. I am going to tame the controls as first order of business and I wish I had followed your caution the first time around. Thanks again. After this learning experience I will proced with a bit more common sense and less over-confidence. Mike.
Posted on: 9/3/2011 11:41 AM by Author "jmcowart" in the forum "Electric Training"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10699744

RE: Apprentice 15e Modifications
This is a Chapter ending in the modified Apprentice story - Got the bird all set up. Perfect CG balance Had to add one cent coin to bottom tip of right wing to balace on roll axis. All control surfaces aligned. Using DX5 transmitter there is only low and high. With low you still get 70% control movement. High is 100% of course. I stayed on low. Measuring the actual control throw it was still at 100% (still on selected Low setting by switch) movement and couldn't get it to less than that without taking loose all the servo arms and moving pushrods closer to axis - that is to say in to the 2nd or 3rd or even 4th hole on the servo arm. The control horm was already as far out as it wouod go. I was too lazy and left it as is. I can't decide if that was the second or third stupid thing I did in a chain of classic stupidity...... Took it to the flying field for taxi tests. I actually wanted to see how the nose gear and 3.5 inch wheels did in the grass. The plane was a pleasure to taxi, either on grass on on asphalt - did really well. After a couple or so increasingly swift runs on the asphalt runway things were going so good I just added a bit more power and off we went! Yes - I know this was a major step in the stupid chain. Well, the elevator was, as warned, very responsive, even touchy. Got that tamed and turned downwind. It was balanced and trimmed well with wind out of the SW about ninety degrees to the runway, but only about 5 kts or so..... The Apprentice handled well but very touchy. I found myself seriously wishing I had taken the trouble to reduce the control throws by adjusting linkages even more. Made a sharp left turn to come around on left hand pattern and approach for landing, low pass, touch and go, or whatever it turned out to be... The sharp turn required some back pressure - up elevator- as it began a descent in the steep turn - that started a porpose so I just let go the sticks to let it smooth itself out as opposed to my overcontrolling. At that point I realized I was heading for the trees on the north side of the field. Fumble, panic, clutch, twitch, crash. The sound of that Apprentice crashing through the tree tops was an awful, terrible, sound that I still hear. So on the unplanned maiden flight of my "Super Apprentice" I flew the durn thing into the trees. As I am old, fat and not at all athletic I did not elect to try and climb the 30 foot sweet gum. Elect shoot! I coulnd't climb it if I had to.. Well I was there all alone and the poor Apprentice was hanging there upside down on a limb dutifully beeping the ESC every twenty seconds to tell me it was still ready and willing. I really hate the think about it all alone out there in the woods, beeping its heart out. I hope the LiPO doesn't ignite when it discharges way past where it should. I most sincerely hope I don't add forest fire to my list of sins. I am going to attempt to hire a tree company in the morning and get them or one of them to go out with me and either climb the tree, use a long lasso, or basket and get the high dollar Apprentice back. I must do that as the Gulf hurricane effect is due here Sunday night or Monday and have at least two to four inches of rain and wind. That will pretty well finish the tree bound Apprentice. Hope I can get it down with the tree company help, of course. By the way - we have had many weeks and months of douught. Dry as a bone. Soon as I put my Apprentice in the tree top comes the monsoon and tropical rain with wind. If I do get it back in any kind of usable condition - first up will be to bind the thing (after repairs and replacement components) to my DX8 so I can program EXPO and mix. Then I will adjust the control linkages to book values. I may also seek out a friend and ask him to kick me hard in the butt. I never said I was a really smart guy. I continue to have that demonstrated to me through stupid misadventures and screw ups such as this CF. MIke.
Posted on: 9/2/2011 7:41 PM by Author "jmcowart" in the forum "Electric Training"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10699040

RE: Apprentice 15e Modifications
Got it! Thanks acdii - I will take heed and set rates and expo as you suggest. I'm looking forward to it..... Mike.
Posted on: 8/28/2011 2:15 PM by Author "jmcowart" in the forum "Electric Training"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10690824

RE: Apprentice 15e Modifications
Got the "Sujper" Apprentice all together. As expected, it is nose heavy. The steel cased Power 15 motor, the 5/32" nose gear, the solid metal spinner nut that goes on the collet prop adapter, and of course the light weight foam 3.5 inch nose wheel - all add up. I have to add weight aft of the CG to make up for it. I guess I'll stick some lead in the ventilation holes in the fuselage underside behind the wing, with some GE Silicone Sealant to hold them in. I guess I'll just keep adding weights until the aircraft comes into balance at the CG 3 1/4" behind the wing leading edge...... All this extra weight will increase the wing loading a little bit. I don't think it will be enough to matter since there is plenty to spare on this trainer. Just have to be careful initially to avoid departure stalls and snap rolls to a dramatic finish. Hope I can fly it next Sunday. Can anyone give me any tips or things to check or lookout for....? Thanks. Mike.
Posted on: 8/27/2011 7:09 PM by Author "jmcowart" in the forum "Electric Training"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10689897

RE: Taller gear for Apprentice?
I put 3.5 inch light weight foam wheels on all three landing gear, mains and nose gear. Following ideas on the forum from an earlier post, I made a new nose gear out of 5/32" stock. The 5/32" nose gear is available from Du-bro and it only takes a slight bend outward and a bend upward on the axle part of the gear in order to put the nose wheel directly under the vertical shaft and steering attachments. The airframe sits up nicely and with a lot of prop clearance. I currently have installed a 11 X 7 electric thin prop and there is lots of clearance. I have also changed out the 15 motor that came with the Apprentice for a Power 15 - puts out more power - but I remind myself there is no need to run a full throttle save special needs (such as a fun vertical departure). The Apprentice looks like a bush plane and I am of a mind to call it the "Super Apprentice" Seriously, the 3/52" stock nose gear by Du-bro requires a little bit of adjustment to fit and function, but it serves the purpose of mostly solving the tall grass problem. The stronger motor should also help pull it through and up out of the tall grass. The three and a half inch wheels fit on the stock main gear perfectly. Mike.
Posted on: 8/26/2011 6:54 PM by Author "jmcowart" in the forum "Electric Training"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10688763