RE: Standard servo for nosegear retract?
Yep what you say is all true retract servos are made to do just that. The one I use is on a single nose gear retract for a LongEZ and the movement needed is far les than 180 degrees to pull up the nose gear. I was only commenting on the servo causeing the current drain. It was probly caused by a stalled servo rather than a standard servo being used. You set up a retract servo wrong and it almost has enough power to pull the control linkages apart. they are made to pull stumps (gear)up into the wings. Pete
Posted on: 4/26/2009 8:22 AM by Author "jmupilot" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8716087

RE: Standard servo for nosegear retract?
HMMMMMM I only thought the servo was pulling current as long as it has to hold the postion of whatever is being moved, ie like a control surface. You use standard servo on your flaps dont ya. Its the same thing. I have a standard servo in my Long EZ nose retract, and have never had a problem. I just use the ETA(Endpoint Travel Adjustment) on my transmitter to limit the throw as much as It needs to be. the servo moves to that postion and stops no more current flows Now it you dont use the ETA it will hummmmmm and it then is using goobs of current. I think you can use a standard servo for retracts, just be sure you dont have the servo stalled at the full up or down postion. Most retract servos just dont have the feedback pot in them for centering. after all if you put a a current meter on one while deflecting the control surfaces you would see the current go up as it moves the go to zero when the centering pot reaches its feedback postion to match the signal from the rec.. now put pressure on the cotrol surface and the current goes up to try and hold the postion as the gear train moves from the force being put on the control arm They also have a gear ratio to provide lots of torque to raise the heavy mechanical gear. Just my 2 cents test it and see for yourself Pete
Posted on: 4/25/2009 8:02 AM by Author "jmupilot" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8713707

RE: Old Kits
PM sent
Posted on: 3/12/2009 12:23 PM by Author "jmupilot" in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8570301

RE: FSW-3 Build
Its the canopy and turtle deck for the Sig Kougar you can find it on thier web site. It comes in 2 pieces the turtle deck is a ABS plastic. If you look at the rear of the turtle deck you can see where I had to extend it a little with balsa to the tail, not a big deal. Pete
Posted on: 3/11/2009 11:46 PM by Author "jmupilot" in the forum "Glow to Electric Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8569104

RE: FSW-3 Build
I built one of these in the 80's it is the glo version. I built mine with foam/balsa sheeted wings its powered by a K&B 61. I built it long before there were computer radios with dual rates or expo. I still have it and even fly it from time to time. I balanced mine exactly where it is shown on the plans, and use the recommended throws. It rolls like it's on rails very fast, straight and true, elevator is very responsive, rudder is almost non existant. It flys very fast, and looks really cool in the air with the wings swept forward. Just be ready for that non-typical look. It does take some getting used to. Now that I have a computer radio flying is soooooo much better. The expo really helps on aileron and elevator. I'll try and take a few pics of mine and post them here if its OK for you to reference. Its not electric but you will see how its going to look. Pete
Posted on: 3/11/2009 9:33 PM by Author "jmupilot" in the forum "Glow to Electric Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8568578

RE: VK Cherokee Plan
Aerowoof, your VK Cheroke looked great. I had one in the 80's, and loved the way it flew. A friend of mine gave me a partialy built one a few months ago, its on the back burner but I do intend to get it flying soon. I plan on putting a vintage K&B 61 in it just like the one I had back then. Of course then I had a 6 Ch Kraft radio without reverse,dual rates, or Expo. It has got to fly much better with the newer computer radio Ihave now. I do have a Tower Hobbies 6 that is almost new, which may help me qualify it for a Vintage meet sometime. Pete
Posted on: 2/27/2009 7:55 PM by Author "jmupilot" in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8526035

RE: Header tanks on twin??
I wont argue the fact the the fuel will stay level in a tank or that a glass of water with stay put on the dash, I'm a full scale pilot also coordination of the turn has nothing to do with this. You still have to draw fuel up hill if the tank is in the center of the aircraft. Why do you think they always tell you to place the fuel tank even with the carb? You only have to hold a model nose hi without muffler pressure to demonstrate this. its only pulling 1 G then. but if you tweek the needle when level I'll bet it leans when the nose goes up. If the tank is in the center of the airplane then when in a bank the upper engine has to draw fuel uphill. I've heard of full scale pilots having fuel starvation in Hi-wing aircraft when they were in continuos bank while circling around a point gawking. The fuel in the selected wing tank was less than 1/4 full. They had the fuel selector set to draw from one tank instead from both, it just happened to be the one that was on the low wing. BINGO the engine quit,and they were flying coordinated turns at 1G but the fuel was away from the fuel pick up, it didnt flow uphill. Pete
Posted on: 2/12/2009 6:00 PM by Author "jmupilot" in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8469905

RE: Header tanks on twin??
Is it always the same engine that quits? I dont know how you adjust your engines but I always adjust the engines separately. the small difference in RPM has never bothered me. I always start one , tune it them shut it off then start the other tune it, then shut if off. The 25 size motors dont swing props big enough to really make a difference in RPM vs. thrust. I fly two different twin OS .25LA powered airplanes and I have never had an engine quit on me. Each engine has its own tank, with normal plumbing. A friend of mine has used the center mounted fuel tanks without any problems on his Jack Stafford B-24. Just remember that on a twin the with a center tank when flying in a prolonged banking turn, one engine is going to go leaner because of it having to pull fuel up hill the other is going to get more fuel flow.. So If your tweaking every last bit of RPM you may be causeing the lean one to starve for fuel and quit. This only applies if your using a center tank and the exhast pressure is not enouth to push the fuel to both engines equally. Using a small header tank should eliminate that. Again small diference in fuel pressure on the small carbs has a greater distrubance on the fuel than you may think. Try making up a test board and mounting the engines at the same distance apart as in the aircraft. Then you can experiment with centerline, header tanks and fuel plumbing and its easy to change and get to everything. Pete
Posted on: 2/10/2009 9:15 AM by Author "jmupilot" in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8460658

RE: possible v-tail configurations?
Nothing magical about V-tails they function just as normal rudder and elevators. I have a few of them in my foamy designs both upright(Beech Bonanza) and inverted V. To get the right movement just orient the tail so one of the V's is like a normal vertical rudder. The movement is the same left rudder gives left, right gives right elevator is as normal. You do however need a mixer either in the transmitter or the aircraft. If your not using ailerons then elevon mixing works also when hooked to the tail feathers. It just puts the rudder for turns on the same stick as the elevator/aileron instead of the throttle/rudder stick. Again no big deal . Pete
Posted on: 2/1/2009 4:00 PM by Author "jmupilot" in the forum "Park Flyers & Backyard Flyers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8427116

RE: WIN A FREE Scale Fuselage from V-East & Graupner Helis
Neat looking Heli, have one of the mCX's and a Concept 30 SR-X that I still fly. I'ved gone mostly electric so this would be a nice addition. Pete
Posted on: 1/22/2009 1:19 PM by Author "jmupilot" in the forum "RC Helicopter General Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8388174

RE: Cessna Skymaster 336 (Royal Kit )
OK I'll bump the thread again to see how the flying is going. I have not flown mine yet ,it sat in the shop so long I had to rebuild the fuel systems and never have been to the field with it. I want to try it with cold weather so I know I wont get a over heating problem in the rear motor. It is also denser air when its cold out. Pete
Posted on: 1/9/2009 6:44 PM by Author "jmupilot" in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8339514

RE: Northstar design theft : action ?
If you go to RC Groups and look for the Polaris build threads you'll see where Laddie commented on this model and seemed to like what he saw. I built a 75% BlueCor fanfold version , (pics in my Gallery) even asked Laddie a few questions. I you look really close you'll see it is a flat wing no airfoil design that only uses the Northstar outline. Videos of it flying are online too, it looks like it flys great very light wing loading. Pete
Posted on: 11/10/2008 12:41 PM by Author "jmupilot" in the forum "Seaplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8133200

RE: Maryland Float Flys
There one coming up in Va, Oct 4. Its near Bealton Va. Check out the AMA contests in the back of Model Aviation or online at www.modelaircraft.org AMA's web site. Wish I was not busy that weekend or I'd be there for sure. If they have to postpone for 1 week I'm free and will be there. Pete
Posted on: 9/24/2008 11:05 PM by Author "jmupilot" in the forum "Seaplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7988177

RE: Northstar mods - Tell me what you think
I've seen a canard somewhere on a Northstar, but cant recall just where. You have to remember that the canard word opposite of a elevator or you'll be in trouble right from the get-go. Having flown the Northstar in both the original and a reduced size, I might say the putting a canard will change the flight characteristics of it but I really dont think it's needed. The way Laddy designed it works just fine on both of mine. But you are right about if you are going to have to add weight , it may as well be something useful, and it looks way cool to have other flight control surfaces out there flipping the air. Pete
Posted on: 9/3/2008 8:24 AM by Author "jmupilot" in the forum "Seaplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7915205

RE: CMP Kits – Problems and Solutions
What's the proceedure for getting a replacement windshield and cowling for the 40 size Cessna 182? I had an engine fail on take off and the resluting snap/spin crash caused the the cowling and windshield to break. Can I order replacement parts for the CMP Cessna 182? Pete
Posted on: 9/1/2008 12:37 PM by Author "jmupilot" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7908141

RE: New CMP Cessna 182 .52 size
Anyone know where I can get a replacement windshield and cowling for the 182? I had a stall spin and didnt fare to well. Pete
Posted on: 8/15/2008 6:21 PM by Author "jmupilot" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7849965

Great Planes ARF Spacewalker Cowling
Anyone have a cowling for the GP ARF spacewalker lying around. I'm rebuilding one and am in need of the cowling.
Posted on: 7/10/2008 8:22 AM by Author "jmupilot" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7714433

RE: Foam Seawind EP from Great Planes...
I have replaced the cowling that got damaged when the motor mount blew out. I had to remove the entire assembly from the foam, and replace a few pieces of ply with new ones. I haven't gotten a chance to try it since the rebuild.. I didnt mention that on the flight that the motor mount went out I noticed that it seemed to really nose dive into the water as I applied throttle. I just took it as a quirk of the days flying and held full up eleveator until it reached planeing speed on the hull. As speed increased I just let off the elevator and as it reached take off speed I just pulled up. It did need a lot of up trim and after less than a minute of flight, the motor mount came apart. I got it landed in one piece, but the cowling was destroyed and the mount was damaged. Hope to try it agian this weekend. Still not sure why the mount came apart it looked like the glue joints just let go. Even the glue that holds the plywood back plate to the foam had let go. I'll give a report of the fixs as soon as I get it in the air again. Once again please check your motor mounts and glue joints the water may have made you EP Seawind motor mounts loose also. Like I stated before mine has never been crashed, or even had a rough landing. The motor is not the one called for but is actually smaller than the RimFire they call for. Its a Team Orion Avionics Gust MS with a Kv of 1820 and swinging a 8x6 APC electric prop on 11.1 v 1350 mA Li-Po battery. the motor weighs 48 grams. More KV but smaller in dia and weight. It may have been a tourqe factor also, but I kinda doubt it. Pete
Posted on: 6/25/2008 10:16 PM by Author "jmupilot" in the forum "Foamies! - RC Electric Foam Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7661688

RE: Cessna Skymaster 336 (Royal Kit )
Have you had a chance to fly your Skymaster yet. The thread went cold and I just looked it up. I still have not fown mine just been too busy, and never really got the urge to try it yet. Pete
Posted on: 6/25/2008 9:54 PM by Author "jmupilot" in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7661592

RE: Foam Seawind EP from Great Planes...
I escaped disaster yesterday. I was flying the Seawind EP and heard a loud cracking noise. The nose of the plane when up and it kinda stalled. I pulled power andset up for landing. when the Seawind flew by at eye level I couldn't believe what I was seeing. The motor was hanging by the wires and, dangling below the fuselage. The ensueing landing was uneventful, but when I walked , up to the mode the whole motor mount was shredded. Nothing left but the wood were it is glued to the foam. Dont understand what happened, no hard hits or crashes in the past years flying. I guess I will have to rebuild the mount and order a new cowl. Anyone else have any mount problems? and be sure to check the glue joints on all your Seawind EP's before it happens to you. Pete
Posted on: 6/11/2008 8:07 AM by Author "jmupilot" in the forum "Foamies! - RC Electric Foam Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7606445

RE: SeaWind EP Problems - Can't get off the H2O!!
HMMMMMMM ,,, cant imagine why you are having a hard time getting the Seawind off the water. Mine is not the stock config but its about the same KV motor and I have no trouble with take off from water or grass. Make sure you are not geting a glitch of down elevator just before takeoff. If you are appling more throttle just before take off then it may be the sudden thrust of the motor that is driving the nose down. The Hi thrustline of the motor WILL cause a drastic downward dip If you hit the throttle hard while in level flight. Mine take about 1/2 throttle to maintain level flight. My takeoff tecnique consists of appling full throttle in a slow manner and after take off speed is reached a small amount of up is needed to break free from the water. Do not go 1/4 throttle for taxi then all of the sudden hit full it Will nose dive on you for sure. While in level flight at 1/2 throttle if I apply full power it drops a good 3 ft before I can regain level flight and that drop is almost instant. Its just a condition caused by the models design of a tail mounted motor. Hope this helps you some. Pete
Posted on: 6/4/2008 12:43 PM by Author "jmupilot" in the forum "Foamies! - RC Electric Foam Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7579337

RE: Crushed Jetscream
Looks like the Li-Po battery is damaged too. its not a good idea to try to charge it if it is because of possible fire. Li-Po batterys burn at over 800 degrees F. so best chuck it Do you have a local Hobby Shop? They could help you if your not sure of things, I hate for you to try and fly it damaged and then cause another worse accident? Pete
Posted on: 4/9/2008 8:08 AM by Author "jmupilot" in the forum "Electric Indoor & Micro RC Flight"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7355328

RE: Over/Under Hinges?
I have used them on a few models but theyare hard to get on correcdtly. If not put on exactly in line they do seem sloppy. Its not a big deal for slow flying aircraft but I would never use the on anythijng that get up to a good speed. I make mine from Packing tape that is put sticky side to sticky side overlapping it about1/4 to 3/8 inch. A 2 inch wide clear tape roll wil make 2 - inch wide hinges. they have to be alternated one on top the next on bottom then one on top. I make most of my hinges by using monokote on top and bottom. I apply the bottom first with the moving suface lying on top ot the wing or elevator then flip the moving suface down and apply the top piece I'll try and draw a little pic and attach. Pete
Posted on: 3/18/2008 12:35 PM by Author "jmupilot" in the forum "Foamies! - RC Electric Foam Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7243957

RE: Newest twin boom foamy design
Dang I had forgotten I had started this post. I've flown the twin boomer now for about 15 flights and its flys great. Not a bad flying quirk in any of the flights. Slow flight is great. and with the larger wing its not a speed demon but moves along very nicely. The Inverted V-tail works just like a convetional tail, rudders have good athourity and the elevators make loops with little effort. Ill try to get a club member to grab some in flight vids/photos as its kinda hard to fly and take pics at the same time. Pete
Posted on: 3/16/2008 9:53 PM by Author "jmupilot" in the forum "Foamies! - RC Electric Foam Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7236120

RE: Seawind Motor Swap
Of course you can install another brand in your seawind EP very easily. You dont need to make a new mount. I have a TeamOrion Gust MS in mine The RimFire is a 3 hole mount type and mine is a standard 4 hole mount. I used the mount that came with the plane. Look at the other SeawindEP threads here for pictures of mine with the GustMS motor installed. Look here for the info: Foamies! - RC Electric Foam Aircraft >> RE: Foam Seawind EP from Great Planes... page 3 its in the electric forum under the one you just posted to. Pete
Posted on: 2/19/2008 8:17 PM by Author "jmupilot" in the forum "Park Flyers & Backyard Flyers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7103672

RE: Slow stick quick-change floats
Here is the pics of the quick change float mounting I use. I timed myself going from wheel to floats and it took all of 3 minutes. I would suggest going to a local building supply store and asking for the blue foam insulation. The local Lowe's and Home Depot have it in 3/4 and 1 inch thickness. It comes in a 2 x 4 ft sheet, enough for a bunch of foam projects. Like JR said above dont sweat the small details these things, with brushless motors just leap off the water. Now I did fly mine with the stock setup ie.. geard 350 motor and a 950mAh 11.1v li-po and its still flew off the water just fine, only it took a few more feet of run time. Pete
Posted on: 2/18/2008 6:06 PM by Author "jmupilot" in the forum "Park Flyers & Backyard Flyers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7097060

RE: Slow stick quick-change floats
I have mine set up so I can change from wheels to floats in about 5 minutes. I'm at work now but will be glad to take a few pics this evening. If you go to my gallery, the pic thay comes up on my profile is my Slo-Stik on floats. I made the flaots from some 1 inch thick blue foam sanded to a good float shape. They have a 3/8x1/8 basswood stick epoxied to the top as a spline. I used DuBro 1/8 wire landing straps on the front to capture the LG wire that comes with the Slo-Stik and bent some small music wire for the rear support. This rear wire is bent so it goes thru the rear wing mounts and I use a wheel collar to hold them there. The spreader bars on the floats are outer tubing from Ny-Rod. The Stik is so light it doesn't take a beefed up gear structure to mount the floats. My stik isnt stock, I have a brushless motor so it doesn't take but about 15 ft and its in the air. Its a blast to fly off water and kinda looks like a dragonfly lighting back on the water. I think my whole float setup adds about 3 oz to the model. Just be sure to rebalance the model after you attach the floats and add any needed weight to the floats and you dont have to rebalance when going from wheels to floats again. Pete
Posted on: 2/18/2008 8:59 AM by Author "jmupilot" in the forum "Park Flyers & Backyard Flyers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7094222

RE: Foam Seawind EP from Great Planes...
I had the same problem with a brushless motor on another airplane, It was just after I dunked it on landing. I had to dry the motor out, it had some water in it. You might have a wire loose in the motor itself, also you might try spinning the motor by hand and then hit the throttle just a little. I think I read somewhere that Brushless ESC's get some feedback from the motor, and that determines the correct rotation and timing, thus a loose wire its not getting the correct feedback. I may be all wet here myself but hey its worth a try. Pete
Posted on: 2/17/2008 7:42 PM by Author "jmupilot" in the forum "Foamies! - RC Electric Foam Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7091734

RE: Flying nitro in an electric lake?
If you use a castor based fuel then its no problem. May give the fishy's a little but its evironmentaly safe IMHO. and you not really dumping the oil in the water its dumping the exhuast in the air, or at least my airplanes do. Pete
Posted on: 2/13/2008 8:05 AM by Author "jmupilot" in the forum "Seaplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7068364

RE: Getting floats parallel to fuse and square to...
Another thing you may consider is any additional weight you need to add to balance the aircraft while the floats are attached you should add to the floats if possible. That way if you take the floats off and go for wheels again and forget to recheck your CofG and its wrong your going to have a real trim problem or worse a tail heavy model that wont fly at all. Pete
Posted on: 2/10/2008 11:09 AM by Author "jmupilot" in the forum "Seaplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7052709