RE: kyosho inferno gt ready sey
haha, well my transmission is holding up just fine so far. i have 1 gallon through that car and i run it hard. the front bearing in the original engine started to leak, so i'm using a donated GXR engine. eventually i'll replace front bearings in both engines with better ones, so it should fix the leak problem. there are many GT owners that race them on a regular basis with stock engines and transmissions and they hold up really well. on the GXR you gotta make sure the carb and back plate are not loose and needle o-rings are tight.
Posted on: 11/1/2009 5:35 PM by Author "joizeex" in the forum "RC On Road Nitro Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9220752

RE: kyosho inferno gt ready sey
if anyone doesn't want their GXR28 engines, send them to me (as long as they're still in running shape) [:D]
Posted on: 11/1/2009 1:38 PM by Author "joizeex" in the forum "RC On Road Nitro Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9220257

RE: kyosho inferno gt ready sey
i run treaded ofna's on asphalt as it is better than just running slicks, which are for nicer and smoother surfaces, unless where you run is freshly paved. i also run spiked ofna's in the dirt with some good results.
Posted on: 10/25/2009 1:02 AM by Author "joizeex" in the forum "RC On Road Nitro Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9199877

RE: Struggling with Single Rotor basics
[quote]ORIGINAL: jon6565 It's actually only a point and shoot Sony Cybershot 7.2mp. But the video comes out ok! [/quote] aah yes, you have me beat by 2.2mp, so that explains more crispness on smaller objects.
Posted on: 10/13/2009 5:18 PM by Author "joizeex" in the forum "E-Flite Helicopters"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9170448

RE: OS .50 SX-H ringed hyper acting up
the problem turned out to be a cracked and slipping main gear's one-way bearing. so this whole time it wasn't the engine, but the bearing. although the engine's compression is now improved with the new ring, so once i get the bearing replaced, i should see much better power delivery.
Posted on: 10/13/2009 4:39 PM by Author "joizeex" in the forum "O.S. Engines Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9170351

RE: OS engines users Club
well, after getting a new piston ring things haven't changed. was only able to hover half a tank. then checked the clutch lining later that day and sanded the glazing off. next day same issue. so i attached a tach to the tail boom and noticed that rotor rpm couldn't get above 800, while engine would clearly rev faster and faster when i gave more throttle. thought it had to be the clutch and i was about to sand the clutch lining completely off and replace it, but i held off because it just didn't make sense, since the clutch seemed very grabby when i held the blades with my hand. so i searched some more and found that people had problems with one-way bearings on their Raptors. so i checked mine by holding the head and then forcing main gear with my fingers and it slipped a little by little! after removing the one-way from the main gear i found that it was cracked and the plastic race cover was messed up. so this whooooole time my issue was NOT with the engine, but the one-way bearing! good thing i only replaced the piston ring for $20 and nothing else. at least now i have better compression and i'll break it in again and keep it on the rich side so that the ring doesn't wear out like before. now i'm just waiting on the new one-way and i'm 100% sure that the problem will be gone. thanks to all that chimed in!
Posted on: 10/13/2009 4:34 PM by Author "joizeex" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9170330

RE: kyosho inferno gt ready sey
theoretically it should be a little more powerful. you'll have to make the engine a little richer too and then adjust it from there.
Posted on: 10/13/2009 10:44 AM by Author "joizeex" in the forum "RC On Road Nitro Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9169408

RE: Struggling with Single Rotor basics
[quote]ORIGINAL: 9sec240 What do you attribute that to? Did you crash or set it down hard? [/quote] I seriously don't know wtf happened! [:-] my last crash perhaps? That was 15 or more flights before this slippage started happening, so if it broke in that crash, i don't see why it took so long to surface. I only have a total of 55 flights and 3 crashes on the heli. In that crash, the main gear didn't get stripped though, so it's not like the engine was fighting with the blades against the ground and the one-way was caught in the middle of those powerful forces. The plastic race cover inside the bearing is also messed up and the rollers aren't all at the same level. I'm just glad i found it out and this will solve the problem once and for all. I miss zipping this thing through the air with a trail of smoke behind it. btw, that's a nice heli fleet you have. jon - nothing beats a dedicated video cam to catch all the details even when it's so far! what kind of cam is it?
Posted on: 10/13/2009 12:23 AM by Author "joizeex" in the forum "E-Flite Helicopters"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9168632

RE: Struggling with Single Rotor basics
update: the one-way has a crack in it going up-down the length of the bearing. looks like i'll have to order one.
Posted on: 10/12/2009 10:26 PM by Author "joizeex" in the forum "E-Flite Helicopters"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9168327

RE: Struggling with Single Rotor basics
that's a good combo, i have it on my nitro and it's rock solid tail! Man, this thread got away from me for the few days that i haven't looked, but i have some great news! After i swapped a new piston ring i fired up the engine and started to hover. Well, as the Jersey Devil would have it, after about half a tank the heli went to the ground and stayed there. Same shiet, different smell! I was fuming [:@] Now i'm thinking, it HAS to be something else! Went home and dropped the engine out and looked at clutch lining which was glazed. I sanded off the glaze and put everything back together. The next day i went out to give it another shot. Fired up and tried to lift off. It stayed in the air for a min and then back down it went. I also noticed that with the engine being very rich, as i would give it near full throttle, the engine rpms went up significantly, while the rotor rpms didn't! Basically it's exactly the same as before the ring replacement, although now with better compression, the engine sounded stronger, so there should be NO reason for it not to lift the heli. The engine temps were reaaaaaaally low too. So i slapped a tach on the tail boom and tried again and discovered something very peculiar. The rotor would reach 800 rpm and then no more, regardless of how fast the engine rpm would shoot up at 3/4 stick! That was my clue: it had to be the clutch slipping. That didn't make a lot of sense because the liner is almost as thick as brand new one and the clutch holds really well when i throttled it while holding the head still. So i went home and dropped the engine out, but didn't have the nerve to scrape the lining off and put new one on and it's a good thing i didn't! Today at work during lunch, i've kept doing more searches on the forums about clutch slippage, because i was gonna replace my liner, but it just didn't feel right to me, because there seemed to be nothing wrong with it really and there HAD to be another issue. So i came up on a thread where guys were talking about one-way bearings slipping on their Raptors and that's when it hit me: older one-ways slip all the time! I had one slip in my 1/10 nitro on-road car and when i replaced it with a new one, not long after the new one started to slip until i cleaned and greased it up again. So i got home tonight and went to check my Evo. I held the head with one hand and started forcing the main gear to turn with the other hand and what do you know, it started to turn on the main shaft! I didn't even have to apply that much force, so i can imagine what a near-2HP engine would do to it! Well i'll try to clean and grease up the bearing and hope that it helps or otherwise get a new one. So to sum things up, the original problem with the heli not lifting had NOTHING to do with the engine or fuel or clutch, but the one-way bearing. Good thing i only spent $22 on a new piston ring and didn't spend another $65 on new piston and liner! The good news is though, that now with the ring being brand new, the engine power output will be back to how it was before i overleaned it with Collpower 30% and ruined the ring.
Posted on: 10/12/2009 9:40 PM by Author "joizeex" in the forum "E-Flite Helicopters"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9168147

RE: kyosho inferno gt ready sey
yea, the front bearing that's sealed on one side. is there a good alternative? i'm assuming that eventually it'll leak on my 2nd engine too.
Posted on: 10/12/2009 12:00 PM by Author "joizeex" in the forum "RC On Road Nitro Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9166549

RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
is that why Futaba FASST uses a single Rx?
Posted on: 10/12/2009 11:55 AM by Author "joizeex" in the forum "Esky Helicopters"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9164158

RE: OS .50 SX-H ringed hyper acting up
thanks for all your help Bill.
Posted on: 10/12/2009 11:29 AM by Author "joizeex" in the forum "O.S. Engines Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9166482

RE: OS .50 SX-H ringed hyper acting up
just ran the heli again and after a couple mins of hover it suddenly lost lift. i stuck a tach on the tail boom and then revved the engine between 0-75% and the rotor rpms would increase up to 800rpm, at which point the engine would still continue revving higher and louder, while the rotor stayed at 800 rpm. i would think that's clutch lining going bad, no?
Posted on: 10/11/2009 6:22 PM by Author "joizeex" in the forum "O.S. Engines Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9164540

RE: OS .50 SX-H ringed hyper acting up
well i got the heli running and was hovering a few inches off the ground for about 1/3 of the tank and then it started doing the old "dropping to the ground" thing. i had the main needle at 2 turns out and the mixture needle in the middle. the engine seemed like it was revving up just fine but the blades weren't spinning fast enough. which now leads me to believe that it's the clutch. i dropped the engine out and looked at clutch lining and it was glazed with black slippery layer. i scraped that off with sandpaper and i can see that the lining has a yellow stripe in the middle, around the whole circumference. is the lining done at this point? will it be ok since i scraped the glaze off? it really seems like clutch slipping is the cause of this, but i may be wrong.
Posted on: 10/10/2009 9:01 PM by Author "joizeex" in the forum "O.S. Engines Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9162554

RE: kyosho inferno gt ready sey
btw, what kind of front bearing could i use to replace the kyosho one that would hopefully last longer?
Posted on: 10/9/2009 12:33 PM by Author "joizeex" in the forum "RC On Road Nitro Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9159244

RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
yea i think you'll be just fine with it. besides, what kind of silly idea is this dual Rx thing anyway [:D] an Rx should be good enough that it'll never need backup. actually, a gov isn't really a "must have" item for nitro unless maybe you're doing some ridiculous 3D. i'm only using ch 7 to turn my stabilization system on/off in extreme emergencies.
Posted on: 10/9/2009 12:32 PM by Author "joizeex" in the forum "Esky Helicopters"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9159240

RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
exactly. advised why? what's wrong with your DX6? does it glitch? do you lose range? was it responsible for bringing your heli down? if you answered NO to those questions, then you don't need to get a new radio. people will always rave about something and tell everyone else that they NEED to switch. i fly a nitro heli on 72MHz 7ch just fine.
Posted on: 10/8/2009 2:43 PM by Author "joizeex" in the forum "Esky Helicopters"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9156688

RE: Kyosho Inferno Us Sports
[:D] [quote]ORIGINAL: lez1troubles Kyon, don't forget to prime your engine first or you'll be pulling in the cord all night befor fuel reaches the carb. To do this you need to remove the rubber fuel line which goes from the fuel tank lid to the exhaust, pull off the piece at the exhaust and blow in it untill you see fuel enter the carb. Then replace it, now your ready to go, put the glow plug igniter on and pull in quick succetion until the engine starts, if it doesnt start after 5-6 pulls you can open the throttle on your control box(pistol) using the throttle trim, just a little bit though so you dont flood the engine. Make sure your wheels are off the ground, it'll start easier. [/quote] you don't have to blow into the fuel pressure line. i know everyone loves the taste of the left overs of the fuel from the exhaust, but there's an easier way [:D] remove the glow plug igniter from the engine. open up the throttle a little bit. plug the hole on the exhaust pipe with your finger and then give it a few pulls on the starter. by plugging the exhaust you'll force all the air into the fuel tank, creating more pressure that'll force the fuel towards the engine. also if someone is having difficulty starting a brand new GXR28 because the initial piston/sleeve fit is too tight and the mixture is very rich, trying loosening the glow plug a few turns and then put the igniter on it and try to start again. you can loosen it pretty far and the engine will still start. then, as soon as it starts, keep the throttle going while you tighten the plug by rotating the igniter clockwise and when it's semi-tight, finishing it off with a wrench.
Posted on: 9/30/2009 12:12 PM by Author "joizeex" in the forum "RC 1/8th Scale Buggies"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9135869

RE: Struggling with Single Rotor basics
Ivan - why do RC guys always drag our gf's to be the camera operators? lol you guys are doing awesome! fred durst says:
Posted on: 9/28/2009 9:36 PM by Author "joizeex" in the forum "E-Flite Helicopters"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9131515

RE: ........... BELT CP V2 Thread..........
[quote]ORIGINAL: joeyhatch11 I didn't look at the tail pgrade as a cool factor. I had plenty of problems with my stock plastic tail. The little nipples that are molded in the plastic kept breaking off and making the tail jump aruond. I bought 3 replacement tail pieces before I said screw it and got the cnc one. It holds 100 times better and is a lot smoother over stock. Get it for the performance and dont worry about the ''cool factor'' IMO it's a must have part. [/quote] haha, well Joe, i guess you know better when it comes to the Belt CP, or maybe yours was just a complete lemon? lol. With respect to my HBK1, the tail gear box and other components have always been solid.
Posted on: 9/28/2009 8:32 PM by Author "joizeex" in the forum "Esky Helicopters"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9131299

RE: kyosho inferno gt ready sey
[quote]ORIGINAL: REEGSf No need to upgrade this car. It's great !! I haven't even removed this engine in two years nor replaced a clutch. I run my car about every two weeks. [/quote] i agree. at the most, this car needs very very minor things, like sway bars and 2 bearings for the transmission, that's what i did, plus i installed front CVDs. but it's really just fine.
Posted on: 9/28/2009 2:30 AM by Author "joizeex" in the forum "RC On Road Nitro Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9129137

RE: kyosho inferno gt ready sey
[quote]ORIGINAL: fritzzzz Replace them on the HSN and you should be right. Haven't heard of too many people with a problem with their LSN. You can find out more here http://infernogt.proboards.com/index.cgi [/quote] yea i used a piece of fuel tubing instead of new O-ring on the HSN as well, but it didn't help. i had a spare semi-broken-in GXR28 engine that someone from the forum was kind enough to donate a while back, so i swapped it in yesterday. today i ran 3 tanks through it and with every tank it was getting faster and stronger and i didn't even have to lean anything out yet. it's breaking in really well. on the old engine i noticed a lot of oil on the front bearing when i removed the flywheel, which supported my suspicions that it was the culprit. i sprayed some rust-buster into the engine to remove old caked up fuel from the crank and rear bearing and after rotating the crank over a few times i noticed the rust-buster leaking out the front bearing. so now there's no doubt about it - leaky front bearing caused it to run lean. i can't see anything else doing that because it was re-sealed everywhere else. i'll get a new bearing at some point, in case i need to swap between the 2 engines, but while it's out of the car, i might give it a port job. it still has good compression and no scoring on the inside. has anyone ported their GXR28 with good results?
Posted on: 9/28/2009 2:28 AM by Author "joizeex" in the forum "RC On Road Nitro Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9129135

RE: ........... BELT CP V2 Thread..........
glad i could help out with the setup, sounds like you nailed it perfectly now. 2 things to keep in mind: plastic blades can actually be very troublesome because on hard landings they'll bend down easily and result in a boom strike. they can also flop more in the wind and cause inconsistent hover. on that note, your initial learning can be done on them. in my opinion, it's completely unnecessary to install CNC tail, especially at this early stage of your learning curve. there are very few parts in tail pitch control, as compared to the head, so any tiny amount of slop isn't magnified by many complex pieces. save your money for crash repairs.
Posted on: 9/27/2009 10:25 PM by Author "joizeex" in the forum "Esky Helicopters"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9128660

RE: Struggling with Single Rotor basics
i hate you guys, i get some downtime and the thread jumps like 5 pages! i just can't keep up with you fellas! [:D] congrats on all the flight advancements though, good job. just finished my piston ring swap with some Stone Ale drinking on the side and listening to some heavy metal on channel 400 something [&:]. the engine was still inside the heli, but it's pretty easy to work on in this Evo50, from all directions. the ring was WORN OUT! wasn't as springy anymore and the width was much less in some areas. i even broke it trying to take it out. it definitely lost its properties. i should've known that Coolpower fuel smokes too much even when lean. Looks like there are a couple score lines on the sleeve, but i'm just hoping i'll be able to get away with just the new ring. that's only $20, vs another $45 for sleeve and another $43 for piston. keep that in mind, Jeff, since you wanted to know about fuel powered helis lol. i'll b$%^h about it, but as long as i can afford it, it's not that big of a deal. i had good 50 flights on this motor before it started acting up. that's 4.5 gallons (keep that in mind too, Jeff, they're clunkers and you don't get cash back on trade-in lol). the heli itself is solid and needs virtually no maintenance and really is a sight to behold; maybe i can make decent vids tomorrow, breaking in the new ring. stupid me left the lipo Rx battery connected since last Saturday and the voltage BEC has a small LED, so the battery drained to 1.3V per cell because the LED is on regardless of on/off switch. oh well, thought it would be a good use for my worn out Esky batt. good thing i have another identical one. the batts are good for about 80 mins of flying with 80% rule. you can use 7.4 or 11.1 or whatever, just use a BEC for stepping down to 5V because that's what my digi Futaba servos can handle. jeff, AMA is $58, you're correct; i renew mine every year, eventhough i fly at my "own" fields, but that's just in case i fly into someone's face, like in that Hatredcopter song by Dethklok (i hope someone here knows what i'm talking about). You were in the armed forces? better have some stories for us! brian, my engine was doing the same cuting in/out thing that you described, and as you can see, it cost me a piston ring (so far)
Posted on: 9/26/2009 6:39 PM by Author "joizeex" in the forum "E-Flite Helicopters"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9124263

RE: Struggling with Single Rotor basics
well today was a complete wash. the starter coupling hub that sits on the clutch shaft and into which the hex starter shaft goes to spin up the engine, has stripped inside, to the point where the starter shaft was just spinning inside of it. the hex-ball end on the starter shaft was also slightly rounded off already, which only accelerated wear and tear on the starter coupling. so with the new ring, the compression was so strong that the starter shaft just spun inside the coupling and wouldn't crank the engine over.... the end. then i tried flying the HBK, but it was so overcast, that it was like twilight (no, not the dumb vampire teenie bopper movie) and from further away i couldn't see the heli's detail that well, so i decided not to risk it and brought it down. i could've flown it really close by, but as i mentioned before, unless i can zoom all over the place at decent speed, i don't bother flying. besides, the wind gusts were REALLY picking up and what would've been ok for the nitro, was not ok for the HBK. well i at least i have a better feeling about the nitro, seeing how the compression has increased so much. what would happen before with the worn out ring, the engine would start and go into hover, then warm up to operating temps and expand and lose compression, so the combustion pressure would just blow by the ring and result in no power. you can see the huge difference in ring thickness in the other thread in my pics. well, time to do that engine swap on my nitro 1/8 scale, hopefully i can get that running tonight. baurwin, i'm from Azerbaijan, it's now an independent country (like before S.U.) that borders with Iran. no, they don't have their own nuke program lol. they do have lots of oil though. the people there are really nice, probably the friendliest relations between jews and muslims of any country in the mid-east area. just an example that people CAN get along lol. i'll stop at that, before this thing gets too political!
Posted on: 9/26/2009 6:23 PM by Author "joizeex" in the forum "E-Flite Helicopters"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9125934

RE: Struggling with Single Rotor basics
Jeff, you gotta stop stalking me on the forums, man! lol Jon what heli is that? i prolly missed what it is in your posts [:D] i like the frame design, from the rear section that i can see in the pic. Ivan, just curious, are you russian? i came from the soviet union back in 1991. well i'm about to have breakfast, yes at 3pm EST, and then i'm gonna head out to see the wizard, the wonderful wizard of nitro. no one today to help with recording my flights, so it prolly won't be pretty.
Posted on: 9/26/2009 2:40 PM by Author "joizeex" in the forum "E-Flite Helicopters"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9125577

RE: ........... BELT CP V2 Thread..........
wzak, i haven't read that far back, but let's just go over the basics again. always start from the servos and work your way up the linkage chain. 1 switch to idle up, center the throttle stick, center trims on the right stick, put throttle trim all the way down, it'll be used later to fine tune throttle. 2 put the pitch knob in the middle at 0. it'll be used later to fine tune pitch. 3 make sure that links that attach to servo horns are at 90 degrees with servo horns. if not, remove the horns and rotate them as close to 90deg as possible. 4 level the swash using the 3 links that attach to the bottom of swash. 5 check swash travel up and down with a ruler/caliper that it's the same both ways. if it's not the same, shorten or lengthen those 3 links. now the fun part begins, make sure flybar is always level during this 6 install a pitch gauge and set it to 0 while your throttle stick is still centered. the next few parts may require going back to previous steps. don't check pitch on the blades just yet. 7 you need to level the washout arms with each other (the ones attached to the sliding block) by adjusting the links from the washout arms to the flybar cage. 8 now that they're level, check your swash up and down travel with a ruler/caliper, it may have been affected at the top. if it's not even both ways anymore, adjust the 3 swash links again, but also those washout-to-flybar-cage links until you reach a good compromise between symmetrical travel and leveled arms. it doesn't have to be perfect for your application though, so don't kill yourself over it. 9 now check the blades if they're at 0 deg. if they're not, adjust either the short links from mixing arms (the arms attached to flybar's seesaw) to the blade grips, and if you run out of length on the short links, adjust the reaaallly long links that go from mixing arms to the swash. 10 check swash travel and the resulting up/down pitch. hopefully at this point it'll be even. if not, go back to step 8. 11 switch to normal mode and check pitch at midstick. it should be around +5 +6 degrees. if it's not, use the pitch knob for small adjustments.
Posted on: 9/26/2009 1:09 PM by Author "joizeex" in the forum "Esky Helicopters"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9125458

RE: Struggling with Single Rotor basics
wow all you guys have lots of batts to fly on. i only have 2 per heli - 2 for walkera, 2 on HBK and 2 on dragonus. though now that dragonus is down and my HBK batts are no longer as good, i'm using HBK ones on Rx for the nitro, i'm flying the HBK on 2 2200mAhs instead. i usually fly the nitro 2-4 tanks at a time. basically when i go to the field, i don't get as many flights on electrics as everyone else i know and fly with lol. jeff, i definitely have a good feeling about the repair, here's some notes and pics from today, at the bottom of the page http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_9057354/anchors_9124770/mpage_1/key_/anchor/tm.htm#9124770 too bad i can't really let it rip for another few tanks, i wanna be more patient and careful this time. since someone brought up the FMA copilot some pages ago, just wanted to mention that i'm using their FS8 Rx+co-pilot combo (the one that came after CPD4 version) and it works really well. it works on CCPM and mechanical mixing like my Evo50. i actually never have it on when fly, but it's there in case of an emergency. when i first started flying the nitro, i didn't get the hang of turning it on with the ch7 switch when in trouble, so all 3 of my early crashes on the nitro could've been avoided [:o] but those were waaaay back when i was still breaking it in, so 3 crashes in 55 tanks isn't bad at all, though very expensive [:D] if i don't forget, i'll try to demonstrate the co-pilot stabilizing the heli tomorrow. it will also right the heli when it's inverted.
Posted on: 9/26/2009 1:54 AM by Author "joizeex" in the forum "E-Flite Helicopters"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9124797

RE: OS .50 SX-H ringed hyper acting up
did my ring swap today, the old ring was VERY worn out and when i tried taking it off, it broke (i still had the engine/piston inside the heli). you can see in the pics that the width is much less than new ring (right side and top side of the pictures is the new ring). the sleeve looks ok, but in the latter pic you can see a small score line that i noticed only today (exactly in the middle of the pic, ignore the white flakes near it, that's from a paper towel). there were also a few more, less pronounced lines and the rest is just very fine lines. those "bad" lines were at the back of the engine, and i also noticed the old ring was shinier at the back as well, though it was thinner at the front. a bit the opposite of what i would expect, no? hoping to start re-break-in tomorrow.
Posted on: 9/26/2009 1:29 AM by Author "joizeex" in the forum "O.S. Engines Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9124770