RE: 2stroke idle - a compromise?
I have used fuel engines since 1975, and I learned the only way to set the needles early in my "career". This have worked on all my fuel engines. Despite the carburator is clean and everything else OK (fuel line, plug, fuel etc) I do it this way: - Adjust full needle to max RPM and back off two clicks. - Let the engine idle for 5 seconds, open the throttle abrupt and listen. If the responce is perfect I increase idletime to 10, then 30 seconds and check if it responds perfect. - If it don`t the engine die/raise RPM in two ways: Either it stops/spin up sounding like it is leaning out. Then I richen the low needle (very small adjustments every time!), and readjust the full speed needle. Redo the idle test, and do further adjustments. - If the engine die/raise RPM, making a noice like it is rich I do lean the low end needle, and do adjust the full speed needle and redo everything. I have no idea how many times I have done this at the field helping beginners make their engines run reliable... Works every time! But if the plug is wrong or the fuel is wrong or very old it is impossible making an engine run perfect. And some cheap china-motors is impossible to get reliable, usually due to poor carburators. When adjusted my engines could idle for 2-3-4-5 minutes and still respond perfect every time [:D]
Posted on: 11/18/2009 8:31 PM by Author "jooNorway" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9264023

RE: more right offset on eng?
5 degrees offset to the right? Far to much usually. All planes, especially taildraggers will yaw to the left as soon as the tailwhell lifts. Some more than others. This has [u]nothing[/u] to do with the right offset/thrust of the engine! Most RC pilots don`t know how to do a perfect takeoff with taildraggers. The trick is to add a small amount of down elevator early in the takeoff to raise the tailwhell, thus redicing the sudden yaw to the left. If the tail is lifted early the yaw will be softer and easier to control. Right thrust is something which have to be adjusted doing a lot of trimming during flight. And of course everything have to be as perfect as possible first; no warped wings, proper CG, lateral balance, taped rudders and so on and so on. 95% of model pilots never try to optimize their planes after first flights, thus they never learn how well a plane really could fly [;)] How many pilots do tweak for optimal CG suiting their flying style???
Posted on: 11/18/2009 8:04 PM by Author "jooNorway" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9263944

RE: Relationship between cell and prop ?
[quote]ORIGINAL: jdetray Switching from 3 cells to 4 cells without reducing the prop size can be a motor killer, too. Let's say you have a motor rated for 250 watts. If the motor/prop combination pulls 20A and you are using 3 cells, that's: 11.1V x 20A = 222 watts. You are safely under the power rating of the motor. Now switch to a 4 cell battery without changing the prop. You are still pulling 20A, so: 14.8v x 20A = 296 watts Now you have exceeded the power rating of your motor, which means it will be running hot, perhaps hot enough to melt the insulation on the windings. - Jeff [/quote] Had to point out this jdetray: If you switch to 4S without changing propeller it won`t for sure pull 20A, I guess 25-30A. Just making the numbers even worse ;)
Posted on: 8/5/2009 4:28 AM by Author "jooNorway" in the forum "Electric Training"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8991384

RE: First Electric Plane
The Multiplex Mentor will do the job. Could be flown on 3S or 4S LiPo. Won`t recommend smaller planes.
Posted on: 8/5/2009 4:06 AM by Author "jooNorway" in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8991375

RE: Thermik Dream
Sorry for late reply, my job sends me all over the country. Installing communication equipment on 46 airports in Norway... No, I haven`t built the Thermik Dream, but several other electric gliders. If you look at the picture you see how I did install the firewall on a Reichard XL3200. Some few millimeters from front. And I did glue it in two steps. First I did glue it with a small amount of epoxy, using incidence meter to make sure I got the thrust right. When this did set I did mask a circle at the firewall, and did add more epoxy with microballoons. This layer did form a huge strong surface. I did add some heat to make sure the epoxy did fill well. Afterwards you could/should sand the nose to ensure a good fit between spinner and front. Just the way I usually do it. In addition I use spinners with cooling holes in their front, usually from Simprop. (At least on powerful setups) Remember to clean the inside of the fuse before gluing. There are often silicone left from the casting, this could weaken the glueing. I use technical alcohol to clean, and sands a bit too. Hope your Thermik Dream catch a lot of thermals [;)]
Posted on: 7/25/2009 1:11 AM by Author "jooNorway" in the forum "Electric Training"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8961977

RE: Please try not to laugh, but i have a few questions...
Yes, the Traxxas-motor could deliver 600-700Watt, but without a gearbox it won`t suit a standard plane. I guess the distance between front mount holes are 19/25mm? Normal size for gearboxes at least. But the cost of a good gearbox could be close to the cost of a cheap outrunner. Many people shop from Hobbycity, they have a lot of cheap stuff, and some of the gadgets are working good too. Erpecially their Turnigy ESCs. This ESC would do a good job: http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=2166&Product_Name=TURNIGY_Plush_60amp_Speed_Controller This motor would give enough power for the Hyperion Mustang: http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=7708&Product_Name=TGY_AerodriveXp_SK_Series_42-40_750Kv_/_600W Increasing voltage and decreasing amperes is always a goal. High amps is no good, because it is the current and not the voltage that kills the gadgets [;)]
Posted on: 7/19/2009 1:28 AM by Author "jooNorway" in the forum "Glow to Electric Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8945273

RE: Thermik Dream
Sorry - WOT = Wide Open Throttle, max throttle. [;)]
Posted on: 7/19/2009 1:05 AM by Author "jooNorway" in the forum "Electric Training"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8945251

RE: Thermik Dream
Glad I could help [;)] I haven`t tried the digital throw-meter, but I know the hardcore IMAC-guys like them. When it comes to gliders and electric motors I usually find they could use more downthrust than recommended, especially when I put in powerful systems. But of course a mix between elevator and motor could do the job too if the glider climbs too steep at WOT. (Some % of down elevator at WOT). Hard to tell before the plane is testflown of course.
Posted on: 7/18/2009 1:03 PM by Author "jooNorway" in the forum "Electric Training"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8943749

RE: Please try not to laugh, but i have a few questions...
If the Mustang says .40 - .59 I would say it is a typical .50-size. As Speedy mention: battery-size should be (at least) 5S LiPo. There are two numbers I would look for: kV, which should be 480-600 and the motor should be able to work at at least 1000W. A 3500kV motor for an airplane? Sounds like ducted fan to me [;)] But with a gearbox it could maybe be used in a "normal" plane. Problems; it is hard to find gearboxes, and the good gears re pretty expensive.
Posted on: 7/18/2009 1:50 AM by Author "jooNorway" in the forum "Glow to Electric Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8942896

RE: Thermik Dream
I have used the Robart incidence meter for many years. It also works great for setting downthrust like you are looking for. I use to mount a bolt/screw to the centerhole of the firewall when I glue in firewalls. I set the stabilizer as zero, because the stabs usually are close to 0 datumline. Take a look at the link, at the middle of the page you find some illustrations. http://www.robart.com/how_to/incidence_meter.aspx
Posted on: 7/18/2009 1:39 AM by Author "jooNorway" in the forum "Electric Training"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8942882

RE: lookin for my first giant scale airplane
Does it have to be scale? I fly the Taxi 2400, and it performs good. (Graupner model) Flaps are working perfect. I use it as a TUG, goes nearly vertical with MVVS 35ccm and tunedpipe.
Posted on: 7/13/2009 11:13 AM by Author "jooNorway" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - General"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8928856

RE: 22x13 Electric prop
Engel would be my #1 choice for electric. But they don`t have 22x13. They have 22x12 and 22x14. They are easy to run, if you aim for 22x13 I guess 23x12 could be used... Check: http://www.engelmt.de/en/top.php
Posted on: 7/13/2009 10:49 AM by Author "jooNorway" in the forum "Electric Pattern Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8928795

RE: Deans Connector fit ?
And if you use Deans, "Deans", knockoffs etc be prepared not to get contact at all... I tossed all Deans long time ago when I discovered poor/no contact when I mixed Deans from different manufacturers. Had forgot the problem until last weekend when a friend of mine did make an Y-lead. No contact... two different "brands" of Deans, same problem I discovered years ago. Now he is tossing Deans and soldering bullets [;)]
Posted on: 7/12/2009 1:21 PM by Author "jooNorway" in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8926589

RE: APC prop rpm
For the shaft; I am not sure... the few smaller APC-E I have do have 6mm centerhole. But usually you get some rings for the hubs with the propellers which propably would make them suit 5mm. For the RPM; I usually get appr 65-70% of theoretic RPM when a brushless is properly loaded (within specs). The battery-voltage usually is 3.5 - 3.7 V/cell at load. If we take those numbers and try to figure RPM at your setup we get this numbers: 2800kV x 14.8V x 0.7 = 29.000RPM. Within specs for APC-E propellers. The kV-numbers could be far from spot on, depending on manufactorers. Hope this did help [;)]
Posted on: 7/12/2009 2:42 AM by Author "jooNorway" in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8925822

RE: WOW!! New DL 111cc and 55cc !
[quote]ORIGINAL: Hibrass Now my problem appears that I can't get the Hi Needle to do anything... The engine falls on its face at the last 3rd of the throttle and will only rev to 5100 RPMs. This is with a TBM 27/10. Which appears to be very similar to a Xoar prop of the same size... Any suggestions? I have pulled the plugs and they look good for less than 16ozs run thru... Thanks, Ed [/quote] Open the "L"-needle another half turn. The L-needle affects also midrange a lot. Had this "symptoms" on other gassers I have had.
Posted on: 7/11/2009 3:31 PM by Author "jooNorway" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8924426

RE: Servos and giants
Nice [:D] Looks like some PT-spinoff-thing. Did I see some future RC-pilots on the pictures??? [;)]
Posted on: 7/11/2009 3:19 PM by Author "jooNorway" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - General"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8924403

RE: longer range with radio
Some of my friends have increased range by making length to their RX-antennas, to appr 2,5 meter total. An other good way to increase range is to get the TX-antenna higher. Lets say 7-8 meter above ground.
Posted on: 7/11/2009 2:48 PM by Author "jooNorway" in the forum "RC Radios, Transmitters, Receivers, Servos, gyros"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8924354

RE: APC prop rpm
APC-E should work. Stay away from SF! For safety try to get their pylon propellers... but they propably don`t have your size... Are you sure about the RPM on your setup?
Posted on: 7/11/2009 2:11 PM by Author "jooNorway" in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8924285

RE: wireless buddy box
I`ve been teaching for decades. Using MPX Profi as master I have been able to give the pupils some or all controls depending on what we are trying to learn. Especially keeping throttle control at the master is great when we start practicing pattern manouvers like big loops etc! Strange how hard it is to lower the throttle at the right point during a loop in the beginning. With XPO this feature is available at lowend systems too [;)] And I have always wanted a system without cables between the transmitters! OK, might be good to stay close in the beginning, but when the pupils get nervous a lot of them tend to step back, forth and sideways... Just to keep track of the damn cable is a job on its own. The XPO solves this problem [;)] Some students like to stay behind the plane for their first takeoffs, but I prefer to stay in the depot. The XPO solves this problem [;)] When he starts climb-out I could take control from the depot and the student could walk to the depot fast instead of two people together trying to get off the airfield walking like a pair of drunk sheeps... I prefer using larger planes for teaching. No problems with 2 receivers on board [;)] Usually the student have to use [u]my[/u] pupil-radio instead of getting used to his own radio from the beginning. (Where are the dualrates, sliders etc?) The TX is a tool you have to know, just like a camera and its functions. XPO make this a non-existing problem [;)] When the pupil begin to be safe I could get myself a cup of coffee, won`t have to stay put... [;)] Hope to see some reviews soon, and also hope they ship to Norway [;)] Price is not bad at all, close to cheap IMHO... [;)]
Posted on: 7/7/2009 3:06 PM by Author "jooNorway" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8913819

RE: Prop suggestion for hangar 9 Cub Power 46
"Larger" props mean you get more power at Wide Open Throttle (WOT). Thus you get less flighttime if you use WOT a lot. You will, at some point, be putting strain on the setup if the propeller is big enough to cause current at WOT to be above max recommended. Remember; bigger prop makes the setup trying to force more current through tne motor. It is too much current which cause something to smoke. Since different propellers (brands) have different load we like to use a wattmeter to measure how high the current really is. If you choose to try an APC 13x8E my guesstima is the setup will use appr 40Amperes. This is safe, since the motor is rated max 55A. ESC is max 60. If your batteries aren`t wery old they have no problems. But propably you have to go for more power? 14x10, or maybe run 5S LiPo...
Posted on: 7/5/2009 2:46 PM by Author "jooNorway" in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8908191

RE: You never know who is reading!
[quote]ORIGINAL: Luchnia Maybe this is not much to some of you, [/quote] Your post is the best I have read in months! Thank you Luchnia [:)]
Posted on: 7/5/2009 5:05 AM by Author "jooNorway" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8907476

RE: Which full house radio?
I am waiting (impatient) for the MPX 2.4 system. Should be released any moment now as joedoe said. Then one of my MPX Profies is to be converted. There is NO radioes on the marked which could compete with a Profi 4000, especially for sailplanes. If you could get your hands on a used Profi 4000 then all your needs are fulfilled. Any mixing could be done, as long as you don`t need inputs from more than 4 controls to each servo... Graupner is also a good choice for sailplanes, but not as good as MPX. Else: look at the Robbe. FX40 could be a choice. http://www.tun.ch/product_info.php?products_id=525 I have tried one,, and I loved it. Take a look on the programming abilities for the FX30 and see if you miss something...; http://data.robbe-online.net/robbe_pdf/P2021/P2021_1-F8050.pdf Take a look of one of the new receivers MPX is releasing any moment: http://www.multiplex-rc.de/hp/produkte/artikel_detail.jsp?lfdnr=55815 Huge powerinput, no need for powerbox and so on. Did I mention telemetri?+ Man do I look forward to put some of these in my big gliders! [:D][:D][:D]
Posted on: 7/5/2009 4:50 AM by Author "jooNorway" in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8907469

RE: Li-Po charge rate?
[quote]ORIGINAL: Sir Raleigh [quote]ORIGINAL: Ed I read somewhere, that for the first 5 charges, to stay at 1/2 C. Anyone ever hear of this ? Something to do about shaping the cells ? ? ? [8|] Ed [/quote] I think that has to do with the Nixx family of batteries, not Lipo. From what I understand you can charge a Lipo at 1C right from the start. Bill [/quote] Some years ago manufactorers recommended break-in of LiPo/LiIon. Slow charge (max 0,5C) and discharging at max 5C the first cycles. Nowadays I don`t find such recommendations from them any more... (But myself I still charge at max 0,5C at home when I have plenty of time [;)] )
Posted on: 7/5/2009 4:25 AM by Author "jooNorway" in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8907452

RE: Prop suggestion for hangar 9 Cub Power 46
Since the battery suggestion is 4S-5S the propeller recommandation 12x8 - 14x10 should be read this way: max 14x10 on 4S, step down towards 12x8 if you run on 5S. More voltage equals smaller propeller. Always. 670kV, 4S LiPo and a 14x10 would be appr 50-55A. 13x8 would be appr 40A. (My numbers, from my experience, your motor could differ, and a wattmeter is nice to have for confirming) (I also use APC-E, other propellers give other numbers) This give 550-700 Watt. If the Cub ends at 3,5 kilo AUW even at 550Watt (13x8) you have enough power for "normal" flying. Buy an 14x8 and a 14x10 in addition. Then you could get more power if needed with camera onboard. For a Cub the pitch isn`t critical for landing. There is enough drag to slow it down [;)] Since the max amperes could be above 50A my own rule of thumbs tell me I would use at least 5000mAh battery to ensure both good flighttime and also a nice threat of the batteries.
Posted on: 7/5/2009 4:12 AM by Author "jooNorway" in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8907447

RE: Li-Po charge rate?
Yes, 1A is OK. Old rule of thumbs was MAX 1C, in your case MAX 1,3A. Anything lower is OK, maybe even to be prefered. Some of the newest batteries can be charged at higher rates. Charging at lower current do not affect how full it get... Og course not. The charger stop when the battery is full.
Posted on: 7/3/2009 10:39 AM by Author "jooNorway" in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8903382

RE: First RC plane
It would be great if you get an instructor to help you during the first dangerous flights [:)] Maybe the local club even have a trainer, including an instructor??? Hope you get contact. Multiplex Easystar is OK, but a good motor and LiPoes is a must (IMHO). Propeller is protected as on the Aerobird. Good idea to not rush and do some research. I really hope you find other pilots, get help and find flying interesting.
Posted on: 6/28/2009 1:34 PM by Author "jooNorway" in the forum "Electric Training"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8888297

RE: First RC plane
I have to admit I have never flown the Cub. Although I dislike the Freebirds etc because they don`t fly nice they are rugged as said. You will get airborne, but trying to say from the text the Cub is propably more stable and will fly better I think. Do you have an experienced pilot who could assist on first flights?
Posted on: 6/28/2009 12:30 AM by Author "jooNorway" in the forum "Electric Training"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8887169

RE: Logging Battery Usage
I did some kind of logging on my first LiPoes, just because this was new gadgets on the marked. Now I just note the date I did buy the battery, and in addition I give them numbers from 1 to X when they are equal and bought in same batch. Written on the batteries. LiPoes are the fuel for our engines, my hobby is not statistics and battery science [;)] Of course I keep track on how they behave on the chargers, and I use timers on my TX a lot. But this has become a habit, not a mania. Initial timer-settings are a result of first flight testing and recharge. Then I just fly, let the ESC do its job. And if I find the batteries are too close to empty when charging I change timer-settings.
Posted on: 6/28/2009 12:19 AM by Author "jooNorway" in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8887147

RE: Folding Prop on a Hacker A 20-26 M ?
OK, ckecked the APC-system. Have never tried them, and they don`t look like the Graupner HUBs which I am used to. [;)]
Posted on: 6/27/2009 3:06 PM by Author "jooNorway" in the forum "Brushed/Brushless motors, speed controls, gear drives"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8886030

RE: DL-50 Trouble
As Rick said; get a NGK-plug. The supplied plug is pure junk. I think you do abuse the engine a bit; should run more oil for the first gallions. And not a synthetic for breaking in either.
Posted on: 6/27/2009 3:14 AM by Author "jooNorway" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8885047