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RE: Where can I order the slimline F1 or Excel fueler?
I have been using the fueller (methanol) for several years now on multiple planes, with no issues at all. You do have to mount it robustly on the plane so you can tighten/undo the cap without it moving, but other than that, it works for me. jp
Posted on: 7/26/2011 9:26 PM by Author "jp928"
in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10640732
RE: Moki 360 twin mount needed
For info on cooling, can I suggest visiting supercoolprops web site. In articles there is some great stuff, and examples of full size planes at Reno. Principle is - small inlet area, largest possible space in front of engine (for air to slow down so pressure rises), then duct to where its needed, and big outlet area. I have a 210 in a GeeBee Y that showed signs of overheating until I made some baffles to guide air over the cyl barrel, and down behind it. hth jp
Posted on: 4/15/2011 5:23 PM by Author "jp928"
in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10465091
RE: Moki 360 twin mount needed
Hobby people dont seem to list the part I want, even as Out of Stock. mokispares are trying to get the piece for me. How is yours behaving for you? I had mine in storage for a while, but have had a few flights again lately - now have starting down to 7 hand flicks for 5 starts... jp
Posted on: 4/14/2011 2:55 PM by Author "jp928"
in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10462882
RE: Moki 360 twin mount needed
try mokispares@gmail.com You dont have access to a spare front crankcase do you? The grooved one for the big crankpin front shaft? What are you planning to put it in, and what prop do you plan using ? I got 5250rpm on the recommended 24x10, flew 90" Extra , but not well. Went to a 22x12, 7000rpm, hauls like crazy. jp 1 x360 installed and GOING! Building another one now...
Posted on: 4/13/2011 9:53 PM by Author "jp928"
in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10461639
RE: Moki 360 twin mount needed
try mokispares@gmail.com You dont have access to a spare front crankcase do you? The grooved one for the big crankpin front shaft? What are you planning to put it in, and what prop do you plan using ? jp 1 x360 installed and GOING! Building another one now...
Posted on: 4/13/2011 9:49 PM by Author "jp928"
in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10461634
RE: moki 360 props?
Moving on, have some more info. Retitred the bird for a while, now out again. Put a Mezjlik 22x12 CF prop on. Would you believe a FIRST flick start! Anyway this prop showed 7000rpm+, and pulled the 23lb Extra almost straight up, so I think we are now in the ballpark. jp
Posted on: 4/12/2011 1:51 AM by Author "jp928"
in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10457776
RE: Lockheed Sirius...lookin for Scale doc.
FWIW, there are quite a few pics of other colour schemes on Sirius. There is a white one on http://www.dmairfield.org/airplanes/NC117W/index.html which I like a lot. There is also the colour scheme of Smithy's Lady Southern Cross (Altair, but cart is the only difference) at http://www.adastron.com/lockheed/altair/altair2.htm (side views only). Beautiful colour 3 views of the stages Lady went through here:- http://www.adastron.com/lockheed/altair/drawings-io.htm hth somebody. jp
Posted on: 2/22/2011 6:44 PM by Author "jp928"
in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10356557
RE: JR9303/2.4 throttle trim won't work
I got my problem fixed. I had gone into one of the mixes (1, 2?), and must have set something, while trying to recall how to get left elevator on Aux2 working. When I went into both mixes, and set them switching to OFF (go to right end of list, select off), the trim came back as normal. It changes with movement of the Mix switch...now that acts like a kill. Not sure how to go further though, and completely isolate the mixing function. jp
Posted on: 1/19/2011 6:57 PM by Author "jp928"
in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10275145
RE: JR9303/2.4 throttle trim won't work
Firstly, there is no inherent CORRECT direction for a servo out of the box into any given plane. Moving the pushrod pickup from the arm on one side of the servo to the opposite arm (other side) will require reversing of servo operation to work properly. I have not seen all 4 need reversing that i recall, but I dont care either way. Second, 9303 or 9X JR tx sold in some markets (USA) have digital throttle trim, in other markets (Oz) the trim is analogue - which is why I bought from USA. Next - I also have just encountered this odd loss of throttle trim, and I am sure I have inadvertently set something incorrectly while trying to set up 2 chan split elevators. The manual is dreadful on doing simple things like this - its NOT under a mixer as many might expect, but under wing type, and it needs something set in typeSel or something else non-intuitive. very Irritating! I may have to reset it and start again if I dont find it soon... jp
Posted on: 1/18/2011 11:29 PM by Author "jp928"
in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10273369
moki 360 props?
Can anybody suggest appropriate props for a Moki 360 please? Its mounted in a 90" Extra (World Models). Initially tried a 24x10, which barely flew it - produced ~5300rpm. I have a 22x12 and a 21x12 for my next tries. Running straight FAI fuel. thanks jp
Posted on: 11/29/2010 6:08 AM by Author "jp928"
in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10166230
RE: FR5-300 bearings
Bax, Thanks for that. I think I have sourced a replacement locally - 12x16x13mm KT needle roller. If it cant be found, I will orderfrom Japan. thanks jp
Posted on: 10/24/2010 10:09 PM by Author "jp928"
in the forum "O.S. Engines Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10091882
FR5-300 bearings
Bax, I have bought an older (1990) FR5-300, that has been stored for a while, and is somewhat gummed up. I have been soaking it and its freeing up slowly. I want to replace the bearings in it as a precaution. Most can be found locally (Australia), except for the needle roller in the cam carrier (OS 40730000), and my LHS asked the agent who just said $21, nil stock, and thats the end of the discussion. Surely these can be had somewhere in OS? Are the dimensions of this bearing available anywhere? ShouldI contact Japan? Also, is the needle roller in the master rod replaceable? thanks john
Posted on: 10/21/2010 1:05 AM by Author "jp928"
in the forum "O.S. Engines Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10082908
RE: Hughes H-1 1/4 scale
Can you advise the size of the cowl please? I am interested to run an OS FR5-300 Radial in an H-1. This is ~9" diameter over the valve covers. thanks john
Posted on: 10/7/2010 5:39 AM by Author "jp928"
in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10053286
RE: Fr5-300 sirius breather nipple
Thanks. john
Posted on: 9/30/2010 5:46 PM by Author "jp928"
in the forum "O.S. Engines Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10038771
RE: Fr5-300 sirius breather nipple
Bax, Thanks for that. So if I continue to run it with the drain open, but plug while in storage, loaded with after run oil, it should be OK? thanks john
Posted on: 9/29/2010 5:59 PM by Author "jp928"
in the forum "O.S. Engines Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10036244
RE: Fr5-300 sirius breather nipple
Bax, I am now rolling plane over on its side after flying, and pumping oil in through the drain nipple. Next question - manual says Drain should be plugged DURING running, and opened after flying to allow drainage of oil residue left from fuel. With no breather nipple now fitted, when should the drain be opened, when plugged ? tks jp
Posted on: 9/28/2010 11:41 PM by Author "jp928"
in the forum "O.S. Engines Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10034604
RE: Any Pacific aero model 27% Gee Bee owners??
Cool!!! The DLE seem like very good value- friend of mine had a 55 in a Gilmore Lion - which died yesterday in a rare event - fly away. Came down about 2miles from the field on a building site, so no injuries or property damage, amd no insurance issues. Anyway, he found the DLE very nice to handle, fitted the tach display in under the rear of the cowl (so the pilot can see it!), very good value with the muffler etc all included. He has a couple of the adjustable pitch props, and started with a 22" at 8" pitch - ~7k rpm, looked slow. Lifted pitch to 10", and she hauled @ss, rpm down to 6100. I have found both of these GBs beautiful handlers - my radial pulls it around at what I think is scale like speed, very solid, stable, loops well etc. You might need to watch your moving surface connections as the speed goes up, or maybe just prop it for grunt not speed? jp
Posted on: 9/26/2010 6:51 PM by Author "jp928"
in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10028903
RE: Any Pacific aero model 27% Gee Bee owners??
Mine has the OS FR5-300 radial, the Zenoah one was a visitor to our field once. Mine came in at 22lbs (batchroom digital scale), mostly I think due to the motor being almost 6lbs. There is another for sale on here in RCU with the same radial,saying 20lbs. Maybe my scales are off? The way the engine box slides into the fuse allows you some leeway with motor placement, and I slid mine back as far as I could, fitted a ply plate inside the rear part with 2 T nuts, and bolted the box to the fuse innards,so I can remove it if necessary. As I say above, with a 6V 1700mah flight pack at the wing saddle rear, and 2 10AH nimh ignition batteries under the cockpit, it took less than 2Oz of lead on the tail to balance it. If your planned motor is well under my 6lbs (94Oz), you shouldnt have any balancing issues mounting per the specs. good luck. jp
Posted on: 9/26/2010 6:25 PM by Author "jp928"
in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10028828
RE: Any Pacific aero model 27% Gee Bee owners??
IIRC the cowl is close to 12" diameter, maybe even a little over that. My OS radial is 9 1/4" dia over the rcoker covers, and I needed a spacer baffle to close the more than 2" of free space above the cylinders so the cooling air would go through the cylinders. I also have the smaller GBY, and the big one flies the same way, really nice handling plane. I suspect a 100cc twin would be overkill - I have seen one with a Zenoah 62 in it, which sounds about right, but thats up to your throttle finger.... jp
Posted on: 9/26/2010 5:58 PM by Author "jp928"
in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10028763
RE: Pacific Aeromodels 97
Finally got mine in the air...With engine box as far back as possible, 6V 1700mah battery behind wing saddle, 10AH Nimh ignition battery under cockpit, needed...35gm (1.5Oz) of lead on the tail - much better than I had hoped. Based on advice from another here who has EXACTLY the same set up, running a 21x8 prop, 20% nitro, 18% oil, when all cylinders are up, seeing 7200rpm. Balanced at 5-1/4"from LE. first flight - leapt off the ground and went up like an elevator - lots of down trim needed! No other trims needed touching. Throws all pretty much as per book, using the 'Normal' values. Motor has all the grunt needed - to me, it looked very scale, similar speed to the 85" version I have with a Moki 210, 22x8 prop. Flys very nicely, just like the smaller one - low roll rate, but otherwise reponds very nicely to all controls, small amount of down inverted, so CG is good, and does a normal final approach, not really slowing as much as you would think for a radial cowl. All in alla very nice model, well behaved . Sadly on second flight I had too high an idle, it ran on a bit, dug in a wheel and psuhed the struct through the wing. No other damage, so it will fix fine. Found one of the oleo retaining screws coming loose, so these should be removed and re-installed with loctite. IIRC total weight was 10kg, or 22lbs on bathroom scales - had to get it inpsected under heavy model rules - over 7kg. jp
Posted on: 9/22/2010 12:31 AM by Author "jp928"
in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - General"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10018997
RE: Any Pacific aero model 27% Gee Bee owners??
Mine is the Green Models version, in Blue/White. Oleo struts. The colour scheme is same shape on all, just the two colours varyfrom the blue/white, red/black, red/white, and black/yellow. I made few changes initially,but now that I have damaged a u.c brace mount, I will beef that up , but need to be careful I dont move the wek point to somewhere that will do lots of damage if it is overstressed again. The u/c brace as supplied was a flat strip of alloy with a 90deg twist in the middle, which I couldnt see taking much load at all, so I replaced it with a piece of tube flattened at the ends. Fixing the brace mount at the back of the wing is not too hard, but getting the large front mounting plate out is a bit of a headache so far, but will get it done. Hope I can match the blue covering OK. FWIW, I was a bit worried initially about cooling , so I did a lot of reading on this. The go is to keep the inlet area as SMALL as possible, then a large volume to allow the flow to slow down (pressure goes up), and then make it flow where its most useful. Some Reno racers with radials have only 1.5" gap between the spinner and the cowl. So I didnt open up the front inlet at all, and made the biggest neat exit cut outs at the bottom. Then I took a flat sheet of clear hard-ish plastic, cut a circle about 1.5" bigger in diameter than the inside of the cowl. Then cut out the centre to just clear all the valve covers of the engine. I made lots of radial cuts ~3/4", and bent the tabs formed alternately left and right. I located the line of the cylinders on the inside of the cowl, and used the tabs bent on the sheet to glue it to the inside of the cowl. This means the air flow can only go between the cylinders and heads, and do some cooling. No signs of heat stress in ground running, and now 2 flights at full throttle witjout problems, there doesnt seem to be a heat issue. Maybe its overkill, but it weighs very little,so? jp
Posted on: 9/21/2010 11:27 PM by Author "jp928"
in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10018117
RE: Any Pacific aero model 27% Gee Bee owners??
Better late than never maybe... Finally got mine in the air - its the French Blue/white version. OS Fr5-300 radial, 21x8 Bolly, 20% nitro, synthetic. Maybe some running yet to do, as one cylinder is a bit unreliable, or plug volts is inadequate - seeing 7200rpm when they all fire. All up over 21lbs. Less than 2 oz of tail weight required with engine as far back as I could get it, balanced at 5-1/4" from LE. I was a bit nervous about the engine's ability to haul it around, but i shouldnt have worried - it leapt off the ground, and climbed like an elevator until I got some down trim into it, and it hauled ass from there on, very scale like. Handles beautifully in the air, just like the 85" version does. Balance was spot on - only a little down required to hold flat inverted. Firts landing was easy, considering how nervous I was, but on second I had a tad high idle and she bounced and pushed a u/c struct through the wing. Busy fixing that now, and improving the ignition set up now. jp
Posted on: 9/21/2010 12:52 AM by Author "jp928"
in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10016587
RE: Lead Acid battery charinging question.
I am trying to charge a Cyclon sealed PB cell (used to be known as a Gates cell) to use as a multiple cylinder plug lighter , but using a Swallow2 charger I cant seem to get past about 2/3 full - 3.2Ah on a 5Ah cell , in either direction. I have put 3 in series, charged them with a proper 6V wall charger until it goes to trickle, then discharged on the Swallow - ~3.2Ah. I have a heavy 12" lead from Swallow outputs to alligator clips,so I dont think I have any resistance colouring the Swallow readings. Using the same connections I have charged/discharged a big 9Ah NiMh fully without problems. Anybody know if there is an issue with the Swallow's PB settings please? There is no Discharge/Charge cycle for Pb, you have to do the two in separate passes. tks jp
Posted on: 6/23/2010 9:32 PM by Author "jp928"
in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9823026
Fr5-300 sirius breather nipple
According to the manual, there is a breather on the top, and a drain on the bottom. I, and many others are unable to locate a top breather, only the drain is visible. How should we inject after run oil to prevent rusting bearings etc please? Dont want to have to drill holes anywhere, and its pretty inconvenient to invert and pump oil up through the drain. Thanks jp
Posted on: 4/8/2010 11:50 PM by Author "jp928"
in the forum "O.S. Engines Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9647888
RE: FS120 series iii regulator leaking.
Well, for anybody else who gets this problem, and based on our experience, you all will sooner or later, the part no for the Regulator overhaul kit is 45582500. It includes a NEW and DIFFERENT cover plate, inner plate with diaphragm, and two new screws. One of our local hobby shops actually had one in stock, A$21.85, ~US$20. Now if Only I could find something similar for the Series II FS120 I would be much happier. Then if I could get rid of the same problem on the FS120-SP thats only done 30-40 flights, I would really be laughing. jp
Posted on: 3/19/2010 7:37 AM by Author "jp928"
in the forum "O.S. Engines Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9594554
RE: FS120 series iii regulator leaking.
Bax...Thanks. I have recently found a spare part listed for the regulator cover, which doesnt make sense when all I have read says 'Dont Open This item.' When I look closely at the regulator, I can see that the sides 90degrees from the fixing screws are not sitting flat on the middle plastic part , which might explain the leak? Would a new cover be a good start? jp
Posted on: 3/16/2010 8:32 PM by Author "jp928"
in the forum "O.S. Engines Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9588069
FS120 series iii regulator leaking.
FS-120 Series III, ~ 6 years old, lots of flights, pulling very good revs on a 15x8. No issues with anything until this one. Same fuel used all its life (10% nitro, 18% oil). OS F plug. Problem started with surging at full throttle. Found a copious fuel leak from the vent on side of regulator. Suggestions please, short of buying a whole new carb. thanks. jp
Posted on: 3/13/2010 10:45 PM by Author "jp928"
in the forum "O.S. Engines Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9579980
RE: Katana S 140 CG location Help Needed!!!!
Well, with my Moki 135 etc (1350gm), ele servos up front, battery on engine box, throttle servo on engine box, a 66gm brass prop nut, its going to take 350gm on the engine box and 130gm on the mount (lined up with cylinder centreline) to balance it. Thats a total ballast (ie deadweight) of 546gm or 19.5Oz. Better than some, but still a sign of something wrong in the design or build. The stab halves seem to be foam/balsa, with maybe glass over it, and the fin also seems to be similar, which will add a lot of weight where its worst. Curiously I have an ESM Katana (78"span, 2m), with a Moki 210 in it, servos in the centre, but behind the cg, and it needed a moderate amount of tail ballast. Its tail end is very lightly built though. jp
Posted on: 10/27/2009 6:51 PM by Author "jp928"
in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9207144
RE: Katana S 140 CG location Help Needed!!!!
jIM, Did yours require much weight to balance it please? I have a Moki 135 with BCM muffler, alloy spinner, 2oz nut, battery on side of engine box, elevator servos in front of wing tube, 8oz of lead on engine box, and its still tail heavy.... I will check your 242mm out from centre and see if its the same as Iam using. The 100-120mm back is the same as my book. thanks jp
Posted on: 10/22/2009 1:15 AM by Author "jp928"
in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9192673
RE: CMP Kits – Problems and Solutions
I have just got to balancing the Katana 140 Series II, and its tail heavy as hell. I have moved engine as far forward as possible while keeping rear of cowl covering fuse front. I have added a 20z brass prop nut. Engine, prop, muffler, spinner totals 1320gm, still tail heavy, looking like needing 1000gm/2.2lbs of ballast. Now moving tail servos as far forward as I can - elevator in front of wing tube, but part of gain here is offset by weight of dowel pushrods. 2 servos @ 45gms each moved from 88cm behind cg is worth some 350gms of nose ballast @ 31cm in front of CG. also have battery on side of engine box. A few more days work I should know more. Anybody else got theirs to balance? jp
Posted on: 9/25/2009 10:07 PM by Author "jp928"
in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9124396
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