RE: Sea Cruiser
Thanks Walt. That isn't apparent in the photos I've seen, but it's the only way the drawings makes sense. Jim
Posted on: 11/20/2009 11:52 AM by Author "jrf" in the forum "Seaplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9267577

RE: Sea Cruiser
24" would be the total length of the float arm, from the outside of one float to the outside of the other. Also, if he could just tell me if the angle of the fuselage sides really does change between the nose area and the area under the wing saddle, that would be great. Thanks, Jim
Posted on: 11/19/2009 4:46 PM by Author "jrf" in the forum "Seaplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9265694

RE: Sea Cruiser
I have the Hanger Designs Sea Cruiser II kit plans. Jim
Posted on: 11/19/2009 3:11 PM by Author "jrf" in the forum "Seaplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9265506

Sea Cruiser
Hi All: I am trying to build a Sea Cruiser II from the kit plans. The plans do not include any fuselage cross sections and I am trying to derive them from the side and top views. I appears that the angle of the sides to the top and bottom varies. It is roughly 12 degrees from the nose to the windshield, 7 or 8 degrees under the wing, and of course 0 degrees at the rudder post. Can anyone tell me if that is in fact the case? Does the angle change from the nose to the wing saddle area? Also, the total length of the float arm is not given and that affects the float spacing. I'm estimating 24" from the outside of one float to the outside of the other. Is that about right? Thanks, Jim
Posted on: 11/19/2009 2:53 PM by Author "jrf" in the forum "Seaplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9265484

RE: My First Twin Design
That should work. Jim
Posted on: 10/7/2009 4:49 PM by Author "jrf" in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9154472

RE: My First Twin Design
Ken: Nice job on the construction. Very neat. I have one caution though, if you don't mind. The tabs on the bottom of the vertical fin have the grain running parallel to the glue joint. They will break along the grain with very little force applied. Essentially, they are adding nothing to the strength of the joint. If you are using them only as alignment tabs to ease the installation of the fin, they will be fine, but if you want to add strength to the joint, you will need to run the grain the other way. Jim
Posted on: 10/7/2009 11:51 AM by Author "jrf" in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9153847

RE: Love that GBY
It shouldn't do that if the wing mounting bolts are tight. The best solution is probably to replace the dowel with a longer one. Jim
Posted on: 9/27/2009 7:18 PM by Author "jrf" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9128124

RE: Love that GBY
From your description, it sounds more like vibration than interference. Change out the receiver and the switch and any voltage regulator you have between the battery and the receiver. It is also remotely possible that the engine's ignition module is bad. Jim
Posted on: 9/23/2009 11:39 AM by Author "jrf" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9117853

RE: Nitroplanes Seawind
Nils: I have no experience with the Nitroplanes version, but the Great Planes version has the same problems unless the take off procedure is just right. This is what works for the GP Seawind 60 size: Use 50% flaps on takeoff Take off [u]directly[/u] into the wind. That huge sail in the rear catches any crosswind and you will be blown off course. Accelerate SLOWLY. If you hit the throttle too fast, the engine pushes the nose down into the water. That is what starts it bouncing. Level the wings as soon as the ailerons become effective. Do not add up elevator until you have reached flying speed and then only a little is needed. On slightly choppy water, the GP Seawind will take off by itself, with no elevator input. Do NOT use the rudder during the takeoff. The water rudder is way too sensitive and will cause a water-loop. Try that technique with the Nitro, and let us know if it works. Jim
Posted on: 8/5/2009 6:47 PM by Author "jrf" in the forum "Seaplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8993087

RE: Super Sportster twin...
Good job! Let us know how it flies. Jim
Posted on: 7/13/2009 11:42 AM by Author "jrf" in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8928925

RE: Seagull's
[quote]OK THANKS JIM. sounds good, So if I understand you right, I need to do the washer thing, only this time raise the leading edge to the max with both wings. check that they are the same distance from the fuse, and then CA the wooden washer in and re-test. sounds easy enough. I will do that first, if that does not work, then I will move the battery back a few inches to rebalance and try again. thanks again everyone for your help[/quote] Yes, you have it right. Jim
Posted on: 7/8/2009 11:19 AM by Author "jrf" in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8916015

RE: Seagull's
Matt: WAIT. The advice I gave you is backward because it was based on elevator down-trim, and what you have is elevator up-trim. You need to raise the leading edge of the wing, not the trailing edge. But back to the original question; with that up-trim, it does sound like the airplane is nose heavy. To review the basics, you balance the airplane upside-down and level on the balancer, ready to fly, but with the tanks empty of fuel. Make sure that CG is right before you do anything else. Using the wood washers to even up the wings is still a good idea, and it won't make much of a change, so go ahead and do that. Recheck the CG and then test fly it again before you add the down-thrust. Jim
Posted on: 7/7/2009 11:17 AM by Author "jrf" in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8913286

RE: Seagull's
Could be wing incidence, could be engine thrust lines, but with the elevator trimmed down, it is not CG. If it were nose heavy it would require up elevator trim. It sounds like you have too much positive incidence in the wing and/or not enough down thrust in the engines. As far as the washers go, they are intended to fine tune the wing incidence. Install the wings with the washers on the bolts and the bolts just finger tight. Measure and set the incidence of each wing so that it is as far "trailing-edge-up" as possible and [u]both of them are the same[/u]. Then drip thin CA behind the washers to hold them in position. If that doesn't do it, put a (metal) washer on the top two engine mount screws between the mount and the firewall. You will alway get a little bit of nose down when you slow down and nose up when you accelerate, but it should not be "like a brick". Jim
Posted on: 7/6/2009 8:11 PM by Author "jrf" in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8911634

RE: Looking for Pacific Knockabout Owners
Yeah, that was me. Thanks for the nice comments. I use a 13x4 APC on the 55. For floats, I recommend [link]http://www.geocities.com/planefunfloats[/link]. Get the 34" floats in standard (wide) width. Jim
Posted on: 6/28/2009 11:29 AM by Author "jrf" in the forum "Sport Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8885643

RE: New Pacific Aeromodel Clip Wing Monocoupe
Yes, in cruise flight, most model airplanes fly with the stab level with the ground, and that is the proper way to set the CG. If you balance it with the nose (or tail) hanging down, you really don't know where the CG is, but it certainly won't be where the designer thought it should be. Exceptions would be biplanes and some early trainers, but the Monocoupe is not an exception. And even the exceptions should be balanced in flight attitude. Jim
Posted on: 6/15/2009 12:40 PM by Author "jrf" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8853676

RE: Neptune Seaplane
I flew it this past Sunday and if flew very well on the OS 46 AX. A 52 four stroke would be slower and have limited vertical, but it should still fly well. The Neptune would be a rocket on a 70 four stroke. Jim
Posted on: 6/9/2009 9:11 PM by Author "jrf" in the forum "Seaplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8839674

RE: New Pacific Aeromodel Clip Wing Monocoupe
It seems obvious that there a couple of flyers here who have never been shown the correct technique for taking off a tail-dragger. It is definitely different and the setup and techniques you use to take off a tricycle will produce just the results that you describe. You have been given good advice by several posters who fly the Monocoupe (and the Gee Bee Y) using the factory recommended setup and have no trouble. Look at the video on the Pacific website. Clearly the Monocoupe is capable of taking off in a straight line. Those are pretty good indications that your problems are not related to the airplane, but to setup and/or pilot technique. Spending money on crutches and/or making major modifications to the design of the airplane will not solve your problems. (Lengthened the rear wing strut? That could easily twist a wing. Then it surely won't fly right.) We have tried to explain what you need to do, but perhaps the written word is not adequate for this. Why don't you find an experienced taildragger pilot who can show you how it should be done. Then maybe you can stop bad-mouthing a very good airplane. Jim
Posted on: 6/5/2009 8:44 PM by Author "jrf" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8828940

RE: New Pacific Aeromodel Clip Wing Monocoupe
According to Pacific, the Monocoupe is covered with Sig Aerokote. Only the 97" Gee Bee Y is covered with Ultracote. Jim
Posted on: 6/4/2009 11:53 AM by Author "jrf" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8825130

RE: New Pacific Aeromodel Clip Wing Monocoupe
The main gear seems to be swept back. That will make take-offs easier on hard surfaces, but it will also make nose-overs more likely, particularly on grass. Where is your CG and how far in front of the CG are the wheels when the airplane is in flying attitude? Jim
Posted on: 6/3/2009 1:05 PM by Author "jrf" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8822382

RE: Neptune Seaplane
Well, I finished assembling the Neptune. (With an unpainted engine pod.) I was a little disappointed that it required 6 ounces of lead plus the receiver battery in the extreme nose, but it is still not heavy (for a seaplane) at 7 pounds 2 ounces. That puts the wing loading at 22.5 oz/sq ft, so it should fly light. We'll see. Test flight in a week or two. Jim
Posted on: 6/1/2009 1:16 PM by Author "jrf" in the forum "Seaplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8816542

RE: Neptune Seaplane
Thanks Jim, and Richard. The addendum photos to the instruction manual (part of the the "View More Images") are helpful also. I suspect that the blue keel goes in front of the step, not behind it, but I will leave it off so that I can do those neat flat turns on the water. Now if someone could tell me how to paint or otherwise add color to the translucent polyethylene engine pod, I would be all set. Jim
Posted on: 5/26/2009 8:22 PM by Author "jrf" in the forum "Seaplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8800925

RE: Lets see your ULTRA SPORTS !!!!!!!!!!!
Yes, definately reduce the wingspan to 72 -74" by removing the last bay on each wing. If will fly the patterns much better as well as landing a lot easier. Spoilerons work better than flaps for short landings. Check your prop. APC is probably the quietest. If you are running a Master Airscrew or a Mejlick (sp?), you can probably get to 97db by changing the prop. If that doesn't do it, go to a larger prop to reduce the full throttle rpm. Jim
Posted on: 5/26/2009 11:46 AM by Author "jrf" in the forum "Sport Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8799643

RE: Neptune Seaplane
Mike: The instructions do not mention any of those parts. (And there are many other discrepancies in them as well.) On further investigation I found that the curved pieces are what is cut out of the cores of the two sections of the vertical stab to create channels for the elevator pushrod. Someone at the factory apparently thought that they were supposed to be included in the kit. (There is no way that they could be re-inserted even if someone wanted to.) I still haven't figure out the straight pieces though. They are 4 1/8" x 3/8" and 1/8" thick balsa. Not strong enough for wing joiners and not long enough to go across the fuselage. You may be right about the foam. It would be attached to the bottom of the wing, I guess, but it is very thin (less than 1/16") and would not add much protection. I will use normal wing saddle tape. I know that works. Jim
Posted on: 5/22/2009 4:26 PM by Author "jrf" in the forum "Seaplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8790612

Neptune Seaplane
I just opened the box of my Maxford Neptune and inventoried the parts. Everything makes sense except the 6 balsa parts shown below. Has anyone who has assembled a Neptune figured out what they are for? And how about the two 3/4" x 21" pieces of black stick-on foam rubber? Jim
Posted on: 5/21/2009 1:27 PM by Author "jrf" in the forum "Seaplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8785914

RE: OS .61fx
I agree. An APC 11x7 will be just right. Jim
Posted on: 5/17/2009 9:19 PM by Author "jrf" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8777373

RE: New Pacific Aeromodel Clip Wing Monocoupe
Sedrick: Your analysis is correct for the front wheels of cars and the main wheels of tricycle airplanes. But that self steering tendency is not desirable for tail-draggers, particularly high-wing tail-draggers. When an airplane turns on the ground, the long wings and the high center of gravity make the wings lean to the outside of the turn, loading the outside main wheel, which becomes the "steering " wheel. If that wheel is toed in, it will make the turn sharper, lean the wing more, load the wheel more and make the turn even sharper, which will lean the wing more, load the wheel more and .... you get the idea. The result is an unstable condition which frequently results in a ground loop. 0-1 degree of toe-out is just enough to make sure that there is never an attitude or gear flex condition which would result in toe-in. Jim
Posted on: 5/17/2009 1:22 PM by Author "jrf" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8776121

RE: New Pacific Aeromodel Clip Wing Monocoupe
Mike: I copied this from the Assembly Manual, which is on the Pacific Aeromodel website. I guess they should have said that too much rudder will make the airplane uncontrollable on the ground also. I had the same problem turning the airplane around on the runway with low rate rudder. My solution is to use the recommended high rate for slow speed taxiing and the recommended low rate for everything else. For the tailwheel, you need to preload the springs when you install them. Bend the ends so that the spring is about a half inch or so shorter than the distance between the steering arms so that you have to stretch it to install it. A longer steering arm on the bottom of the rudder will also help. A gyro won't hurt, but basically you just need to cut down on your rudder throw. Jim SETTING UP THE CONTROLS Ailerons 7/8” 1 1/8” up 1/2” 5/8” down Elevators 1 1/8" 1 3/8" each way Rudder 1” 1 1/2” each way Do not omit the aileron differential. The Monocoupe will not fly well without it. We recommend Exponential on the elevators: 25% at low rate and 40% at high rate. We do not use Expo on any of the other controls. CAUTION: The rudder is extremely effective. Do not use more than the recommended travel on the rudder. High rudder deflections can make the airplane uncontrollable in the air.
Posted on: 5/17/2009 1:08 PM by Author "jrf" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8776202

RE: New Pacific Aeromodel Clip Wing Monocoupe
Have you checked the wheel alignment. The wheels should be toed-out 0-1 degree. Never toed-in. They come set at zero, but a rough landing can bend them. What do you mean when you say 75% on the rudder throw? Can you measure the throw in inches? The manual calls for 1 inch each way on low rates, measured at the widest part of the rudder. If you have more than that, you are almost guaranteed to get into a PIO (Pilot Induced Oscillation) situation. Pick a day when the wind is straight down the runway and try landing without touching the rudder. If that works, your problem is over-controlling the rudder. On takeoff, you must accelerate slowly. That will minimize torque and P-factor effects and you should only require a small and constant amount of right rudder to keep it straight. Advancing the throttle all at once will definitely start the zig-zags. Jim
Posted on: 5/16/2009 10:04 PM by Author "jrf" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8774910

RE: Pulse XT vs Ultra Sport
It's a build it yourself kit. If you don't like the looks, change it. I saw one built with an Extra style canopy and turtledeck. It looked nice. Jim
Posted on: 5/14/2009 2:34 PM by Author "jrf" in the forum "Sport Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8768742

RE: Pulse XT vs Ultra Sport
Actually, the APC should INCREASE your rpm by 300 or so. That's why the airplane will be faster. If you are looking for speed, try a APC 11x8 or 10x9. The 10x9 should get you 100++ in level flight. With the stock muffler. (No baffle) Jim
Posted on: 5/13/2009 8:38 PM by Author "jrf" in the forum "Sport Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8766829