RE: Eindecker EIII
Art for reason, I didn't get notified of your updates, glad to see you are making progress. We will miss you and Rhoda at Eureka Springs next month, Dallas says Hey. Rich
Posted on: 5/19/2013 11:18 AM by Author "jwrich" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11516143

RE: Aurora 9Ch, Spectra Pro & Optima - FAQ & Undocumented Features - Mixes, Setups, Tips.
Thanks Alan, I guess I didn't look hard enough. I'll get one. Rich
Posted on: 7/3/2012 8:54 AM by Author "jwrich" in the forum "Hitec/MultiPlex Radios- Ask Hitec Customer Service"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11141277

RE: Aurora 9Ch, Spectra Pro & Optima - FAQ & Undocumented Features - Mixes, Setups, Tips.
I would like to buy a counter-balance for the neck strap for my new Aurora radio. Thought I saw a picture of one on this site but I can't find it. Could someone post the part number and where I can buy it. Thanks Rich
Posted on: 7/1/2012 7:20 AM by Author "jwrich" in the forum "Hitec/MultiPlex Radios- Ask Hitec Customer Service"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11138472

RE: Warbirds Over Texas 2012 WBOTX
Thanks Terry & staff, I had a great time again this year. This is my second time for this event. A lot of beautiful airplanes but more important, some wonderful people. I enjoyed every minute. See you next year! Thanks again Rich Richardson SPADS RC Club Enid, Ok.
Posted on: 6/25/2012 1:29 PM by Author "jwrich" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11131456

RE: How much do you pay to fly at your club?
Our club yearly dues are $75.00. This amount just pays the operating cost, lease, mowing fees, port-a-potty and AMA charter with little extra. Our club has grown in members in the last three years, currently we have 46 members. We live in farm country, wheat is the money crop and a small plot of land is very hard to come by, to buy or lease. I think we are thankful to have the 3 acres we have leased for more than 25 yrs. Flying field is just part of the cost of this hobby, same as airplanes/helis, radios, etc. If that is too much for you then go golf or fishing/hunting and see what that cost you. Rich This is our field
Posted on: 8/29/2011 1:21 PM by Author "jwrich" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10692184

RE: Sealing and weathering over solartex
I have an question. Can I try some of these ideas on solartex after I have sealed it with Poly. I have a SR Eindecker and a i/4 scale Sop Pup that I would like to add somw weathering. Thanks Rich
Posted on: 8/17/2011 2:32 PM by Author "jwrich" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10675017

RE: Hitec 645 MG Servo Failure?
I think he had them in a giant scale TF/GP P51 on the ailerons and the rudder. He said he had to replace the metals gears twice on the ailerons before they locked up. I think excess vibration was the cause of the failure. I not sure what the problems were that resulted in the Hobby Shop in OKC to stop selling them if that is the case. Maybe I can get a deal on the the remaining new ones he has left. Thanks Rich
Posted on: 3/7/2011 8:52 AM by Author "jwrich" in the forum "Hitec/MultiPlex Radios- Ask Hitec Customer Service"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10384326

RE: Hitec 645 MG Servo Failure?
That is what I plan to do with the 6 that I bought. Thanks for your input Rich
Posted on: 3/5/2011 7:31 PM by Author "jwrich" in the forum "Hitec/MultiPlex Radios- Ask Hitec Customer Service"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10381449

RE: Hitec 645 MG Servo Failure?
Thanks for your response, I hope other share their experiences as well. Rich
Posted on: 3/5/2011 4:41 PM by Author "jwrich" in the forum "Hitec/MultiPlex Radios- Ask Hitec Customer Service"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10381151

Hitec 645 MG Servo Failure?
I was in the hobby shop today and a friend was talking about servo failures. He said that he had lost 3 airplanes because of the Hitec 645 MG servo locked over to full deflection or just locking up. He went on to say the major hobby shop in OKC OK will not sell these servos because of their failure rate. I have use 1 of these servos off & on for over three years with no problems. My main concern is that I recently bought 6 of these servo for my 1/4 scale War World 1 airplanes. I read all the threads posted here back 2006 and could not find any repeated issues with these servos. Have any of you had problems with these servos? Thanks Rich
Posted on: 3/4/2011 7:30 PM by Author "jwrich" in the forum "Hitec/MultiPlex Radios- Ask Hitec Customer Service"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10379559

RE: Lipo in Transmitter/flight pack HOW?
Where did you buy your batteries for the transmitter, I have Hitec & Futuba. Thanks Rich
Posted on: 3/3/2011 4:03 PM by Author "jwrich" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10377265

RE: Lipo in Transmitter/flight pack HOW?
pkoury: Thanks for your advice, I am very interested in trying a 2cell LiFe receiver pack. What are some of the outlets that I could buy these packs? I am not sure what you mean when you recommend getting a cable for my Cellpro? These LiFe packs will not damage the servos or the 2.4 receivers? I hate it that I am so dumb about this stuff, too old maybe. Thanks Rich
Posted on: 2/28/2011 7:22 AM by Author "jwrich" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10369381

RE: Building the BUSA SPAD 13
As I stated in my last post, the upper fuselage construction is next. In studying the manual and plans, if do a detailed cockpit, it must be done first. But once the upper decking and stringers are complete there is only a small area for access into the inside of the fuselage to mount radio components and fuel tank. Access to the cockpit from below in the lower wing opening is almost impossible. I down loaded several great pictures of the cockpit and instruments. It would be a crime not to do a detailed cockpit on this airplane. What have others done for a detailed cockpit? I really would like to add this detail work. This would consist of the instruments, yoke, seat & pilot. Help I need ideas how to do this but have access once the fuselage is complete.[8|] I'll post some of pictures of the cockpit & instruments. This is the web site I copied them from http://storage.mfa.free.fr/SpadXIIIuk. html All ideas or suggestions are welcomed Thanks Rich
Posted on: 2/18/2011 7:17 AM by Author "jwrich" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10345255

RE: Building the BUSA SPAD 13
I have a little progress to report. I have done the landing gear fairings and the cabane & interplane strut fairings. I use 20 minute finish epoxy & micro balloons to fill in around the wire on the landing gear fairings. Also, I have made copies of the parts of the gear fairings just in case repairs are needed. The cabane & interplane strut are stained and will sealed with clear coat. I am not sure if I will paint the gear fairings of stain them. Your ideas and comments will be welcomed. The axle will be clad with balsa as well. I think landing gear will be a lot stronger than the manual instructions. As designed the instructions states that the spreader & bungee cord will control the spring or spread of the landing gear by provided by the spring action of the wire. I agree with this statement, but I don't think the 3/16" main gear wire would strong enough to prevent bending at the wheel area. As I pointed out, over time with normal landings and sometimes rough landings the 3/16" wire will bend. I have replaced the 3/16 axles with 1/4" wire on my 1/4 scale Fokker D VII & Sopwith Pup. I don't have hanger queens, I fly planes regularly and have yet to damage the gear with a really hard landing. In my opinion, the 3/16 wire proved be weak area of design. Here are picture of the work.
Posted on: 2/18/2011 6:22 AM by Author "jwrich" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10345140

RE: Building the BUSA SPAD 13
As many of you know, it has been very cold in my part of the world. Some of the lowest temperatures in years in more than a three week period in NW Oklahoma. Then you add in the winds and it is miserable. I have worked on the SPAD when I can heat up the garage warm enough the accomplish something. I sanded the ailerons to shape and installed hinges, to be glued in place later. My BUSA WW I planes, I had the aileron servos exposed under the wing. I didn't like this much and wish I had hidden the servos. So on the SPAD I mounted the servos in the wing with a hatch cover. The wings had numerous nicks & dings that had to be filled, then I sanded them to almost the finished state. Next was mounting the landing gear. The provided wire for the gear is 3/16" , the front leg is bent to mount the wheel. I have built three of the BUSA WW I aircraft and each of them I had to install a 1/4" music wire axle. I don't make hard landing but I do fly them often and after a time the small wire will begin to bend. Also in the other three I made a shock absorbing systems that work very well. The SPAD 13 does have a spreader bar between the gear legs so I thought a 1/4 music wire axle would be stronger. I did not make it shock absorbing, maybe it was too cold in the garage, later I may wish I had. Here are pictures of the work.
Posted on: 2/9/2011 2:45 PM by Author "jwrich" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10324130

RE: Siemens-Schuckert D.III 1/3 Scale
Jim, what company id DJ? Rich
Posted on: 2/5/2011 12:19 PM by Author "jwrich" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10314704

RE: Lipo in Transmitter/flight pack HOW?
Let explain my question and what I want to do. First let me say, I do not understand electronics, of course I know the basics + & - leads and the charge times of nicd batteries based of mah. But that is about it. I did buy a small electric system for combat flight at the field. Which have a motor (micro Jet), speed control and 30c-1500 mah (3s 11.1v) high discharge Lithium Polyer battery( I have 5 of these batteries). These are a lot of fun flying a homemade plane with a streamer attached for combat. I bought a charger (which connects to a 12 volt battery) from FMA Direct that will charge Lithium Polymer Ion, Lithium Manganese and A123 chemistries batteries. It is a Cellpro 4s Charger, Model LIPOCH4SO3-A123, for use with LiPo, Li-Ion and A123 battery packs with node connectors. Now what I would like to do if possible is replace the Nicd batteries in my transmitters (Hitec Optic 6 with 2.4GHz system and Futaba 6EX-2.4 GHz). Also I would like to replace the flight pack Nicad batteries in my 1/4 scale airplanes. The batteries in these planes are deep in the fuselage and in some cases hard to remove quickly (could be done). A little background, I fly 1/4 scale WW I scale aircraft and travel to several events around the country during the flying season. I have invested a lot of time and money building them and would hate to loose one cause of battery failure. Usually there are little access to power for charging your systems and the planes are too big to get in the motel rooms. I rely on quick charge at the field to keep my flight packs charged. This has worked over the years but I never felt comfortable doing this. As a rule, I change my Nicd batteries every 2 to 3 years even if they show good on the tester. It is time to change out my batteries. What would be the best solution for me? I don't want to sink a lot of money buying new chargers and test equipment, I have all that stuff for Nicd's. Can I use the FMA charger I have to charge the new system and maybe some of these batteries? Thanks for your help & advice. Rich
Posted on: 1/30/2011 12:09 PM by Author "jwrich" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10300292

RE: Questions about Optima 6 & 7 receivers
Thanks Alan, looks like the 6 channel receiver will fit my needs, great information. Fly safe, Rich
Posted on: 1/28/2011 7:17 PM by Author "jwrich" in the forum "Hitec/MultiPlex Radios- Ask Hitec Customer Service"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10296767

RE: Lipo in Transmitter/flight pack HOW?
Thanks for your quick response. I have only use nicad batteries, What is A123? Have Nimh in flight packs, what is the advantage in transmitters? Thanks Rich
Posted on: 1/28/2011 5:40 PM by Author "jwrich" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10296587

Lipo in Transmitter/flight pack HOW?
I not sure if this is the correct thread to ask this question. I heard from a flyer at the field today that he is using Lipo batteries in his transmitter and the flight pack in the airplane. He tried to explain how he did it to get the right voltage but maybe I'm too dense or he couldn't explain it well enough. The fly season is just around the corner and I should replace some batteries in airplanes and transmitters. Can anyone explain how to do this and the parts required. Also, has there been any problems converting the lipo batteries in transmitters or flight packs? Thanks for your help Rich
Posted on: 1/28/2011 4:52 PM by Author "jwrich" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10296469

Questions about Optima 6 & 7 receivers
I have some questions about my Optic 6 with the 2.4 system. Let me give you a little background, I fly 1/4 scale airplanes (WW I) and fly at many events around the country. The 2.4 system is the way to go on a crowded flightline. A couple years ago I bought a Futaba 6EX-2.4 GHz with 2 receivers and a little later I bought the Hitex Optic 6 2.4 with 2 receivers, both radios work as advertised. Now I want the buy additional receivers for one of the two radios. Tower Hobbies sells both systems but the Futaba receiver cost more the the Hitex. The Hitex radio came with 2 Optima 7 receivers from Hobby People at a very good price. My question is about the Optima 6 receiver. I only use 6 channels in the airplanes I fly and I don't need a 7 channel receiver. Does the Optima 6 have the same range as the Optima 7? What is the advantage of the 7 over the 6 for my type of flying? I have read about some of the problem others have written into this thread with the Optic 6. So far I am very happy with my Hitex. Thanks for your help Rich
Posted on: 1/28/2011 4:34 PM by Author "jwrich" in the forum "Hitec/MultiPlex Radios- Ask Hitec Customer Service"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10296418

RE: Building the BUSA SPAD 13
ime for an update on the progress of the SPAD 13. I have been working on it, but with holidays, family visits and now the very cold weather has limited my time in the shop. Plus I am at stage in the build process I find very trying. Building the cabane struts, interplane struts and setting the wing incidence. I followed the manuals recommendation to use an angle finder to set the incidence for for both wings. It worked out as instructed, but it seemed like going to Tulsa to just get across the street. Using an incidence meter, I always used, would worked as well and the results would have been the same. Both wings have the manuals recommended incidences. Bending and soldering wire for the cabanes & struts is time consuming process. Every thing has to be jigged, wire wrapped and set before beginning the soldering. All the solder joints look good, only the landing gear legs to do. Here are the pictures Till next time. Rich
Posted on: 1/21/2011 8:24 PM by Author "jwrich" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10279518

RE: Building the BUSA SPAD 13
Thanks Mike, This does help. Good luck with your maiden flight. Rich
Posted on: 1/3/2011 4:02 PM by Author "jwrich" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10237205

RE: Building the BUSA SPAD 13
Mike, do you have any pictures of your engine installation? I have a Zenoah 38 and a Fiji 50, both will fit but the Fiji will be tight. I am concerned about the carb. being so close the fuselage side. It would help if you could post some pictures. Thanks Rich
Posted on: 1/3/2011 11:38 AM by Author "jwrich" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10236542

RE: Building the BUSA SPAD 13
Hi Guys, I have been working off & on on the SPAD. The holidays are hard to get anything accomplished, you just work when you get a free moment. I finished the tail-skid mount, it looked a little weak so I added some aircraft plywood and insert a brass tube. The brass tube strengthens the hole. Also, I replaced couple stringer that were soft balsa and added 1/32 ply to strengthen the glue joints. I used a string from the tail post to line up the wing. This model sets the wing incidence different than others I have built. BUSA recommends using an angle finder to establish the incidence of the bottom wing. With every thing set and lined up I drilled the wing bolt holes and installed the dowel rods that hold the wing in place. I like to reinforce the bolt holes with fiberglass tubes (Dave Brown push-rods). I drill out the holes one at a time, line up the tube glue the tube in with epoxy, install the bolt before the epoxy sets up. Then do the other bolt hole after the epoxy sets up. Here are the pictures
Posted on: 12/25/2010 5:44 PM by Author "jwrich" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10218074

RE: Building the BUSA SPAD 13
Sorry, I haven't updated the thread in a while; we had a death in the family. My wife’s 101-year-old Grandmother passed away shortly after her birthday. She was a neat Lady, very independent, we will miss her. I have been building. I finished sanding and hinging the rudder & elevators. They look very nice. I began the first phase of the fuselage, most of the ¼� stock was very soft. I found this out after I got all together and just handling it could easily break a stringer. Again following instructions, made this part rather easy. When I build fuselage sides, I build the first side over the plans, put down wax paper and build the second side. If done correctly you will have a mirror image of the fuselage sides. I used thin CA for most of the stringers. I like to reinforce the glue joints in this area when possible. Most of the time I use thin plywood & triangle stock. This time I used tooth picks & thin CA to pin the butt joints. This does not add hardly any weight and it makes a very strong joint. Here are the pictures of the construction. If any of you have ideas or suggestions for this build, I would like to hear from you. I would like to wish everyone a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year. Rich
Posted on: 12/13/2010 11:21 AM by Author "jwrich" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10194488

RE: Siemens-Schuckert D.III 1/3 Scale
Jim I just found your thread, nice project, unusual aircraft. I will be following along. Rich
Posted on: 11/24/2010 11:14 PM by Author "jwrich" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10158080

RE: Building the BUSA SPAD 13
I have completed the first phase of bottom wing. Not much different from your wing construction other the mounting of the landing gear and the placement of the hold down bolts & dowels. I did add triangle stock to hardwood gear blocks & ribs in the center section. Both wings were rough sanded and glue joints checked again. I was surprised how strong the wings are, all those ribs. These are the first set of wings I built in one piece, most are built in halves then joined in the center section. Both are straight with not warps. The tail group easy to build, the instruction are easy to follow. The horz. stab & elevators are very strong and light weight. The fin & rudder is no brainier, just take your time and make good glue joints. The Fuselage is next. There several phases of construction in this section, which I am most concerned about. If you guys have any ideas, or helpful hints, I would appreciate your input. I didn't post many pictures of the wing & tail group construction, if you have built a bi-plane, you know how it goes together.
Posted on: 11/23/2010 9:26 PM by Author "jwrich" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10155473

RE: Building the BUSA SPAD 13
More progress on the wings. I took your advice Jim and added the slight scallops between the ribs. The shear webs on the spars between the ribs adds a lot of strength. Also the paper tube makes it easier pulling the servo leads to the center section. This completes the first phase of the top wing. The bottom wing is straight forward as the top wing with a couple exceptions. The landing gear mounts to the bottom wing and the dowels are in the rear and the wing bolts are in the front leading edge. Just a little more work on the bottom wing for the first phase of construction. Rich
Posted on: 11/18/2010 12:16 AM by Author "jwrich" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10142612

RE: Building the BUSA SPAD 13
Jim, did you paint the under side of you SPAD? I ordered Antique Solartex, planning to just paint the upper part. Also did you anything different with the land gear wire? I am sure I'll have more questions as I go along. I will scallop between the ribs on the top & bottom rear spars. I would like to have the SPAD finished in time for Dayton. I am bring about five other flyers to the Dawn Patrol in Dayton. They are working hard to get their plane finished. Of course Dallas is making the trip. Thanks for looking in on my build Rich
Posted on: 11/9/2010 11:26 PM by Author "jwrich" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10125886