RE: great story of friendship above the call of duty
Well I saw the plane at rally of the giants and was very impressive. Glad I had the opportunity to see it fly!
Posted on: 6/6/2010 4:41 PM by Author "kevinf2501" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9785280

RE: HOW-To..3D maneuvers
McChiken I found the same experience with hovering theChargerRC foamy. I had to move the lipo more forward and it become more stable and hovers easier and also takes down elevator inverted. I found a similiar experience on the Hobby Lobby hotrod however it required minimal down inverted. K
Posted on: 1/10/2009 4:53 AM by Author "kevinf2501" in the forum "3D Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8341066

RE: HOW-To..3D maneuvers
[quote]ORIGINAL: airwayman [quote] A neutral/slightly nose heavy plane is easier for me to 3D with than a tail heavy plane.[/quote] As far as torque rolls go, I agree. Try balancing a baseball bat in the palm of your hand with the barrel (heavy) end up. Not all that hard. Now turn the bat over with the handle end up and try to balance it. Airwayman [/quote] your analogy is true however not representative. try holding the baseball bat and let it hang down. it takes more energy to move the bottom end when the heavy end is down. it takes less energy to move it with the lighter end down is down. its also easier to change direction when the lighter end is down. 1st point being is a slightly and I mean ever so slightly nose heavy plane 3D's much better than a plane that is too tail heavy. 2nd point is its easier to learn to hover/torque roll a plane that is slightly nose heavy than a plane that is too tail heavy. 3rd point The main mistake 3D newbies make is to go tooooo tail heavy which also presents problems when landing. Beyond these 3points CG is adjusted based on pilot preference, comfort and setup. once again just my experience
Posted on: 1/9/2009 5:21 PM by Author "kevinf2501" in the forum "3D Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8339246

RE: HOW-To..3D maneuvers
I am sure some of these items have been touched upon in the thread so far. However my experience in learning 3D maneuvers has been the following A neutral/slightly nose heavy plane is easier for me to 3D with than a tail heavy plane. I struggled with hovering and torque rolls for months and months and set up the plane on the tail heavy side. I was finally convinced to move the CG forward on 2 of my planes and keep trying to hover and torque roll. On one day I did about six flights inching the CG forward every time. Going from tail heavy to nose heavy. ( subsequently I do this on all my new planes to find the sweet spot) I found that once the CG got slightly nose heavy (and I mean slightly) the plane was more predictable and more responsive to tail inputs and my 3D skills started to improve The reason for this is as follows. When hovering with the correct throttle inputs (to low a throttle the plane falls off and nose heavy it falls quicker) the CG is not relevent to keeping the nose up as the prop is creating the lift (not the wings) and therefore other than the spinner 100% of the weight is behind the lift point (being the prop) . so keeping the nose up is a function of throttle to overcome the entire weight of the plane and in addition any drag created by surfaces moving and not CG location. Changing the cg will not keep the nose up only good throttle management will. (as well as the correct inputs with elevator and rudder) The CG does make a difference on the reaction of the tail to input. The more tail heavy the plane is the more input you need to make the tail move as the tail has more mass or weight to move hence more input . think of pendulum, a heavy one takes more force to stop it moving and get it going the other way than a lighter on and essentially in a hover the prop is your pendulum pivot point) I was very skeptical but convinced after trying the gradual moves of the CG forward . The reason i think newbies "think" a plane is more reactive in a tail heavy configuration is they tend to not get the "instant" reaction on the tail surface in a hover and therefore add to much input and end up over controlling the surface and getting behind. I have purchased about 4 planes from people learning to 3D and always find the CG to far back. Tail heavy is ok but just like anything else to much is not good. I also find the "slight" nose heavy condition makes for better harriers and rolling harriers as the the nose wants to drop a little and adding throttle to compensate gives a really good constant forward momentum without having to constantly blip the throttle.. There are a lot of people that fly 3D very well with a tail heavy planes. I typically find that I have to have a lot more stick input when flying their plane to get a similiar manouver done and that around center their planes feel mushy. They always say my control surfaces are much more sensitive to them. There is more than one way to solve the same problem and this is just my experience. I like the plane to react predictably and quickly with less stick input and found that when I moved the CG to "slightly" nose heavy my 3D skills improved exponentially. This may or may not work for you. But if you are struggling its worth a shot to try it. just my 2c worth. Kevin
Posted on: 1/9/2009 3:18 PM by Author "kevinf2501" in the forum "3D Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8338857

RE: The ALL NEW Dietrich 75cc Extra 260
After having put the 75cc through its paces and getting about 12 flights on it the plane is a definite keeper it is rock solid through all 3D maneuvers and flys more like a 100cc plane the a 75cc. I really like the way it tail slides and it is very stable in a harrier and an elevator and requires very little correction. Knife edge flight is uneventful and has plenty rudder authority to do knife edge loops. This is the smallest plane I own however it flies just like the bigger ones! As far a the build. The plane goes together very quickly. I do recommend the following slight mods. 1. I added 4 cap screws to the canopy to ensure it does not come off 2. added hard points for the canopy mounting bolts. (removed some foam and replaced with some Ply blocks.) 3. Soaked the cowl mounting and wing mounting blocks in CA to ad strength to avoid compression and bolts loosening. I added some thin ply to the cowl mounts for extra security as the the single cylinder DA85 does tend to produce more vibration than a twin. 4. When tightening up the covering Don't use a heat gun (too hot) use a low temp iron especially in the black. I have pretty much gotten all the covering smoothed out and get few wrinkles at the field. This plane is a definite keeper and will be my throw down plane and will be used to learn new maneuvers..........(hopefully without incident...) Great value for money! looking forward to the Slick 540! Also a thanks to Bill for taking the feedback mentioned above for future batches and thanks for replacing the cowl. Great customer service as usual.
Posted on: 11/26/2008 11:34 AM by Author "kevinf2501" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8185295

RE: AirWild 40% Sukhoi SU29 ... all you need to know
Updated build thread on SU29 50% [link=http://www.downonthedeckdiscussion.com/viewtopic.php?t=4002]build thread link[/link]
Posted on: 10/3/2008 12:01 PM by Author "kevinf2501" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8015280

RE: AirWild 40% Sukhoi SU29 ... all you need to know
Update I progressing at the phenolic horns and gluing the hinges as well as mounting servos. So far the build thread already covers pics of this so I wont re post them. By the weekend I will have more up. BTW I am also doing the build thread on DOD (Down on the Deck) if you wish to see. [link=http://www.downonthedeckdiscussion.com/viewtopic.php?t=4002]Sukhoi 40% build on DOD[/link]
Posted on: 9/23/2008 1:01 AM by Author "kevinf2501" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7981824

RE: AirWild 40% Sukhoi SU29 ... all you need to know
Well I was also interested in this build thread. Anyway my 40% Suhkoi is in my building room along with all the gear to put in it. I was going to start last Friday however a small thing like hurricane "Ike" made a stop in my neighbourhood. Anyway I now have power and a manual (thanks Jerry) and the build will start tonight. This is what I am going to put on this bird DA150 regular mufflers Smartfly EQ 10 (overkill with a 12z radio but its what I have) Smartfly Turbo Requlator 2 x 5955 per aileron (4) 1 x 5955 per elevator (2) 3 x 8611a for rudder (3) 2 x 2100 7.4v 2 cell Thunder Power Prolite Li-poly batteries for receiver 1 x 2100 .4v 2 cell Thunder Power Prolite Li-poly batteries for Ignition 1x Fromeco regulator with HD SW for ignition SWB servo arms all round The rest of the hardware will be what comes with the kit. Kevin
Posted on: 9/18/2008 1:43 PM by Author "kevinf2501" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7966929

RE: R5014 Question - New Futaba 12z owner
Hi Krysta I have 3 5014DPS receivers I aquired when I got a 12z radio. I have no idea if they are the short or long antenna versions. Also I know there is an upgrade so that the 5014 can use mode A or B. I have had a friend send in a 14z for repairs and they upgraded the 2x 5014 receivers he had at no cost. When I called to enquire about sending mine in to have the software upgraded and the 5014's updated I was told I would be charged $107 PER receiver. So I am a little confused as to what is correct. It would seem that with the reported problems that people have experienced with the 5014 that the upgrade would be done at no cost in order to resolve any possible issues. PM me or let me know your thoughts Kevin Furman
Posted on: 8/28/2008 11:33 AM by Author "kevinf2501" in the forum "Futaba Radios Direct support forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7895209

Identify the servo
Hi I have servo I presume to be Hitec. The case is identical to a 5965 and it is also a metal gear servo (40mm). The 2 differences that are puzzling are 1. the gear that the the servo goes on is not the normal silver color it is gold/brass color 2. Hitec servo arms do not fit. However a futaba servo horn fits on it snug and perfect.... The little tag identifying the servo has come off. any help tips or suggestions. Kevin
Posted on: 2/26/2008 1:16 AM by Author "kevinf2501" in the forum "Hitec/MultiPlex Radios- Ask Hitec Customer Service"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7138512

RE: New H-9 Sukhoi set up
I have a BME105 in mine as well and have tried almost every prop combination. The best Prop I have found is the MSC 25x10 which runs at 6400RPM on the ground or the MSC 26x10 that runs 6000 on the ground. These props are true length props (unlike some others that are 1/2 inch short) also the blade is a lot thicker than any other wooden props. These props also slow down the plane so the downlines are not to fast and landing is a lot easier a well. I tried the following other props (cost me a fortune) Mejlik 26x10 (Break in prop) BME 26x10 BME 27X10 (Need bigger wheels for clearance MSC runs slightly better and is shorter) 3W 26x10 Mejlik 3 blade 24x12 (Nice for IMAC, not for 3D) PS if anyone wants a 24x12 Mejlik and a TruTurn Spinner for it (fits BME) I will part with them for less than 1/2 price. Kevin
Posted on: 11/21/2005 1:38 AM by Author "kevinf2501" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3572579

RE: Quadra 35 electronic ignition help
Thanks for the great info. I guess I am missing the 6v Booster battery. I will have to modify as I dont have the other half of the jack. Can I modify the booster jack to a regular futaba lead and leave it permanently mounted or does it have to be unplugged. (Ie on the kill and run setting there should be no drain to the battery and the Jump start wont be on if the battery is attached???) What Amperage battery do I need? Can I use a 4.8v battery? Once again thanks for the great info! Kevin
Posted on: 9/25/2004 3:38 AM by Author "kevinf2501" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2201191

Quadra 35 electronic ignition help
I have gotten a PT-19 that has a Quadra 35 in it with CH Ignition. Does anybody have a manual or instructions on this particular ignition. I need to know the following. What voltage battery do I need to run? I also need to find a wiring diagram. There are 3 wires coming off the motor *black, white and red. This goes direct to the ignition module * green goes thru switch to ignition module * black goes thru switch to ignition module The switch thats on it is a 3 position toggle switch which I want to replace with a 2 position Cermark switch with charging jack. I just want to make sure I wire it correctly. The two wires (can see in the picture) are green and black and got to the switch. I need to make sure I figure out which goes to positive and which to negative or if it even matters. I have another lead that comes of the ignition which is a red and black and I assume this is the the battery lead. If it is why would the switch not be between the ignition module and the battery instead of between the ignition module and the motor? Any help would be most appreciated Kevin
Posted on: 9/24/2004 7:37 PM by Author "kevinf2501" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2200231

RE: GSP Yak54 is here!! I am liking this one!
PS This ARF is definitely not for the beginner as the instructions are sparse. Its a figure it out yourself assembly. No incedences are specified (ignore the pre marked indents for the anti rotation pins as they dont line up correct) Also no recommended settings are provided for how much throw to have on each control surface (too much elevator will cause this plane to snap). If anybody wants my settings (futaba 9c) I would be happy to provide them Kevin
Posted on: 8/30/2004 7:28 PM by Author "kevinf2501" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2132514

RE: GSP Yak54 is here!! I am liking this one!
Plane came out heavy at about 14 pounds(including balancing). Even with an extra battery and ignition module the plane came out tail heavy. I cut out the bottom of the canopy base to remove weight. However I still needed about a half pound to balance it out 1/2 pound to balance it out. The plane flies fine and will be great for IMAC flying. This is not a 3D plane. with the 160 MVVS the plane will not hover. (might once engine runs in or changing prop. It turns a 18x6 master airscrew at 7500. Unfortunately on my 4th flight I had a dead stick (ran out of fuel) and had to land in the high grass. Pulled the landing gear out of the block. It also damaged the cowl and the fibreglass around the landing gear and bottom of firewall. My overall opinion is that the gas tank is to small, and due to the construction of the formers would be very difficult to increase the tank size. I got 10 minutes flight time with the tank using Gasoline. I would think it would be much less with a comparable nitro motor. even though it is easy to repair, I am not going to do the repairs as I feel the plane is generally overweight (even without the extra battery and ignition module) therefore making the wing loading very high. Fixing it would just make it heavier. So I will just write of the $270 for the kit and call it a day on this one. I was very impressed with the MVVS 1.60 gas motor. It started right out the box, needed a minor adjustment on the bottom end. The motor behaved perfectly (until it ran out of fuel [8|] ). So if anybody needs a spare set of wings let me know. I will be sticking with 50cc gas and above. Have fun Kevin
Posted on: 8/30/2004 7:23 PM by Author "kevinf2501" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2132495

RE: New H-9 Sukhoi set up
Cowl cutting for a BME 105. PS rememer to have a 2 to 1 ratio for are going out vs in
Posted on: 8/21/2004 2:16 AM by Author "kevinf2501" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2104363

RE: Construction progress
More pics
Posted on: 8/17/2004 1:41 AM by Author "kevinf2501" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2092044

Construction progress
I have finally got around to posting an update on construction of my Yak54. So far I have got the rudder, elevators and throttle linkages in. (need to do final Setup), I have the motor mounted. The MVVS 1.60 fits in great using A dubro mount. (through away the block of wood that came with the kit). The fuel tank and plumbing is done. as well as the ignition module. All thats left is to do the canopy and the wings. I had a number of issues during construction that needed to be figured out as the instructions are vague at best. Make sure you measure the incidences before drilling the anti rotation pins on the elevator and wings as the pre marked locations are not correct. Secondly make slots for the anti rotation pins as due to the shape of the fuse a single hole wont work. once I had the slots cut out and could attach and remove the wings I used some hard 1/4 by 1/4 stock to make a rail in the fuse to set the correct incidence (prevents the pins from rotating) The plans do not show the exact location for the holes for the pushrod exits and for the pull pull wires. It took quite a while to measure and make sure I got them right. The rudder mount points need to be low (in line with the bottom strip) so they wont interfere with the elvator mounts and pushrods.
Posted on: 8/17/2004 1:39 AM by Author "kevinf2501" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2092039

RE: GSP Yak54 is here!! I am liking this one!
Phil I prefer Gasoline motors and avoid nitro (snot) motors for the following reasons *Gas motors once they are tuned rarely have to be retuned unlike the finicky nitro motors. * I dont have to spend an hour cleaning my plane after flying. * Gasoline is way cheaper. I did pick up the motor from Morris Hobbies today. real sweat motor. I will post pictures once I start building tommorrow Kevin
Posted on: 7/22/2004 10:27 PM by Author "kevinf2501" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2015107

RE: GSP Yak54 is here!! I am liking this one!
I have decided to put in a MVVS 1.60 Gas motor from Morris Hobbies. I am going to pick it up tomorrow. This motor should still be light enough and should make up for the tail heavy tendency. I am going to leave the servo locations and use 2 Sullivan Composite Flex Rod 4-40 36" to ensure accurate elevator movement What you think?
Posted on: 7/22/2004 12:46 AM by Author "kevinf2501" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2012314

RE: GSP Yak54 is here!! I am liking this one!
Hi Anyone put a BME 50 on the yak with the servos on the tail? Anyone put a gas engine on one? Kevin
Posted on: 7/21/2004 9:46 PM by Author "kevinf2501" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2011748

RE: How about some good CA GOOFS ???
RE: CA SAFETY CAUTION (in reply to RCKen) Report This Post | (Post No. 34) -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Once Upon A time long ago I was gluing 1/8 scale rubber racing slicks to rims with CA. (before you could by them pre-glued) the technique was to get the rubber on the rim pull the rubber and insert a fair amount of glue., keep pulling the rubber all the way around away from the rim allowing the CA to wick all the way round and halwya down the rim. at the end slow release and wipe away the excess CA. I had just put the CA between the rubber and the rim and the rubber slipped shooting CA into both my eyes. Fortunately I had worked with an old timer who had always invisioned (no pun intended) this exact event hand had the perfect liquid on hand to neutralize the CA. this miracle liquid is Milk! without trying to pry open my eyes (bad move as you will tear skin) we applied the milk and I stood lookinf up with milk in my eyesockets for about 2 or 3 minutes. I then was able to slowly peel of the superglue which came of my skin with about the same resistance as clear packing tape. Once I got my eyes open they where extremely scratchy as CA had gone into the eye. I soaked out my eyes further to get the particles out. My eyes where red and scratchy for about a day. Moral of the story wear safety glasses! PS I'm not quite sure why the milk works other than it is an alkaline and acts as a natural CA debonder.
Posted on: 5/29/2004 10:18 PM by Author "kevinf2501" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1857138

RE: CA SAFETY CAUTION
Once Upon A time long ago I was gluing 1/8 scale rubber racing slicks to rims with CA. (before you could by them pre-glued) the technique was to get the rubber on the rim pull the rubber and insert a fair amount of glue., keep pulling the rubber all the way around away from the rim allowing the CA to wick all the way round and halwya down the rim. at the end slow release and wipe away the excess CA. I had just put the CA between the rubber and the rim and the rubber slipped shooting CA into both my eyes. Fortunately I had worked with an old timer who had always invisioned (no pun intended) this exact event hand had the perfect liquid on hand to neutralize the CA. this miracle liquid is Milk! without trying to pry open my eyes (bad move as you will tear skin) we applied the milk and I stood lookinf up with milk in my eyesockets for about 2 or 3 minutes. I then was able to slowly peel of the superglue which came of my skin with about the same resistance as clear packing tape. Once I got my eyes open they where extremely scratchy as CA had gone into the eye. I soaked out my eyes further to get the particles out. My eyes where red and scratchy for about a day. Moral of the story wear safety glasses! PS I'm not quite sure why the milk works other than it is an alkaline and acts as a natural CA debonder.
Posted on: 5/29/2004 10:13 PM by Author "kevinf2501" in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1857120

RE: Futaba MSA-10 Servo Syncroniser Flawed?
Mike Thanks for you very insightfull post. I think you nailed it on the head that 1 lead cannot provide the required power for all 4 servos. Futaba repaired my servos and receiver under warranty. They sent me extra MSA-10's to use instead of one (one per aileron). I got no further answers from them nor any further remuneration for my loss. They wont send out a warning of the potential power problem using 4 servos on one MSA. I agree with the reply that 1 lead (albeit high gauge) may not be able to deliver ample power. However futaba should alert users of the product to this(which they wont do). Basically Bill to me not to gang up servos and us 1 1/4 scale servo per Aileron. However this is not possible on my H9 Suhkoi. I disagree as if we werent supposed to gang up servos they wouldnt make syncronisers and they wont make airframes with multiple servos per surface. I am using the duralite system with 2 6v regulated 3700mah packs so I think I am ok with power. Once again I can see the potential for the MSA10 to be starved of power when all 4 servos are fully stalled. I will be using 2 Syncronisers in future to better distrubite power load and requirements. I also will no longer using the high amp S9402 servo due to my doubts about it failing again. I am going to be using JR 8611 servos instead. Moral of the story. use 2 syncronisers on 2 channels to distribute the load better
Posted on: 3/30/2004 1:08 AM by Author "kevinf2501" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1672754

RE: Futaba MSA-10 Servo Syncroniser Flawed?
After speaking with Bill at Futaba today here is the end to my story **** Bill Thanks for taking the time to speak to me today. My cell phone battery went dead. Will I do appreciate your time and effort to help me I don't feel we reached a solution that allows me to continue using Futaba servos in giant scale applications I have purchased 4 JR 8611 (std size) 260oz servos rated for giant scale airplanes. And going forward I will continue to use JR servos for Giant scale airplanes Thanks again for your time and help Kevin
Posted on: 3/29/2004 5:48 PM by Author "kevinf2501" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1671446

RE: Futaba MSA-10 Servo Syncroniser Flawed?
Paul The MSA-10 is designed to syncronise 4 servos. Ths S9402 servo is a Metal geared servo. However as on most (if not all) metal geared servos there is still one small plastic gear. The S9402 is a high speed high torque servo. The real problem is the MSA-10 isnt allowing enough AMP's to the servos so the they are not reaching there torque rating, this puts undue stress on the servo especially the little plastic gear. Secondly futaba had sent out a batch of S9402 servos with bad gears. Just my luck to get them. Am I mistaken or do all metal geared servos have one plastic gear? Kevin
Posted on: 3/29/2004 2:07 PM by Author "kevinf2501" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1670737

RE: Best Snapper
My H9 33% Suhkoi does great snaps!
Posted on: 3/29/2004 12:35 AM by Author "kevinf2501" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1669274

Futaba MSA-10 Servo Syncroniser Flawed?
Who is using the new MSA-10 Servo syncroniser from Futuba. If you are using them please read this as there is a problem with this product. Below is an excert from my dealings with Futaba and further commentary below it. Today I lost my 33% hangar 9 Sukhoi SU31 do to catastrophic servo failure. I am running 8 S9402 Servos that I bought brand new from towerhobbies for this plane. 2 Elevator 4 on Ailerons (2 Per wing) 2 on the rudder) The Aileron servos are controlled by a Futuba MSA-10 servo syncroniser The plane was about 8 minutes into the 3rd flight of the day. I was practicing my torque rolls over and over. between attempts I would fly the pattern. As I levelled out from a very leisurel turn over the runway (at 1/2 throttle) the plane started to shake badly as the Aileron started to flutter. once I slowed down the plane started to go in circles and I had no aileron's (the plane was unflyable) using rudder and elevator I managed to get the plane away from the flight line and managed to pancake it onto the runway. destroying the fuse. Fortunately both wings and all the tail surfaces where undamaged. Upon inspection I could move the right Aileron from all the way up and all the way down freely. Both servos where not engaging or working at all (Just buzzing). The left wing has one servo that sounds really bad like it has a couple of broken teeth. I think the left side was damaged do to all the flutter and trying to make up for the right aileron.(this aileron still moved however after the crash) Needless to say the Sukhoi requires 2 servos with 60oz torque. I have 2 servos with 110 oz torque. More than double the requirement. I had no warning like sloppy or slow ailerons (as I have experienced previously when having one bad servo on a wing). Both servos seemed to have similtaneous catastrophic failure. How is this possible? I should be able to tear the wings off before having servo failure like this. I have the throws set at the recommended levels as per the instruction book and I always fly on low rates. Could the MSA-10 have failed causing the servos to bind or fight each other causing flutter and then servo failure. All I know is I went from 100% Ailerons to 0% Ailerons pretty much instantly. Can someone from futaba explain what could have happened and what I should do to get this fixed? Thanks Kevin Furman ******************** Hi Kevin, I agree, since both servos failed at the same time, I believe it has something to do with the MSA-10. If you still have it and the servos, we would like to see them here. I am not sure if we are going to be able to find a complete explanation for what happened, but it may be worthwhile to our techs to see if they can pinpoint something. I am very sorry to hear about the loss of the plane, although it is good that you did get to save the wing and the tail. If you decide to send these in to us, please send them to my attention. Thanks, Krysta ********************* Krysta Thank you for your reply. I have sent all 8 servos, MSA-10, Receiver and receipts for all the equipment. I sent them attention to Dave Wolf as he was very helpful when I had called in. I tend to agree on the MSA-10 failing as 3 of 4 Aileron servos failed suddenly and without warning. The plastic gear spline in all 3 servos has been destroyed. The remaining servos seem perfect. Anyway I am sure once you receive the equipment we can find out what went wrong. Thanks Kevin ********************* Hi Kevin, You should have your servos and MSA-10's back soon as they will be leaving our service center today. As per our phone conversation, it was determined that the servos were at fault in this instance. but we did check for you and the current draw of the S9402 servos is 1.8 amps which is actually more than many of our servos. It is felt that four of these servos used simultaneously in the MSA-10 may not be advisable and is suggested to use two MSA-10's. Sincerely, Krysta ********************* [>:] At this point I made 2 more postings which where deleted. I asked what is the AMP rating for the MSA-10 (max) What the AMP rating is for all futaba servos (so I could work out which ones can and cannot be used on this product) Futaba also stated that they had sent out S9402 servos with faulty main gears (plastic one) which also where on this plane. (they could have sent a recall out or sent replacement gears. Not sure how many faulty ones are still out there) On Tower and Futaba website they advertise this for Giant scale aircraft and 4 servos. Why wouldnt people expect to use high AMP high TORQUE servos. I had 2 sets of faulty products which are known by futaba including a product (MSA-10) that doesnt work as advertised. They refuse to reply, pay for my repairs and delete my postings.(they did repair the servos) This was nearly a very serious crash as it happened approaching the flight line and plane veered close to the pits. Someone cold have been very seriously hurt or injured. Most of all I want futuba to put some sort of max amp rating on the product and let people know it doesnt work on all servos. How many other people out there arre at risk of losing ther Giant scale planes and possibly causing injury or death because they dont know about this!!!???? I will also be contacting Tower tomorrow (where I bought everything from) ************************ Great Guys Just delete my posts that really solves the problems. You sell a product for giant scale airplanes it doesnt work correctly you destroy an airplane and you dont even have the deceny to let the RC community know the flaw with this product. I ask for technical specifications of the product and what servos are recommended and that post gets deleted to. What about my airplane? Are you not at least going to make some effort to do the right thing??? Go ahead and not respond and go ahead and delete my post again! I will post my questions in the main forums until I get a reply. I spend a lot of money on Futuba products and I deserve better service and some answers If I don't get answers I will write AMA, IMAA, Tower (Gold member and where I bought the equipment) and explain to them the possible dangers your product can cause to people on the flight line and in the pits when your products dont work as advertised. Please have the deceny to respond. If you wish please call me at the # I will PM to you.
Posted on: 3/29/2004 12:31 AM by Author "kevinf2501" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1669265

RE: RE: New H-9 Sukhoi set up
Sonlander I have a BME105 and balanced my Sukhoi with no added weight and servos in stock position. Fits in the cowl with 10mm Billets and smaller plugs. (no need to cut cowl) Bolt on mount availaible from Chief. No mods needed. Great service from BME
Posted on: 3/16/2004 12:06 AM by Author "kevinf2501" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1628957

RE: 3W 75, 85 B2, or BME 102/105 for the H9 Sukhoi??
John Its Aluminum. Its made for the BME105 to go on the sukhoi. Chief now has a newer mount. Ps I finally got the it Torque rolling. A bit of expo helped. Unfortunately I wont be flying it for a whole as it crashed on Sunday due to catastrophic servo failure. (MSA-10 synchroniser seemed to fail. Futuba is looking into it.) destroyed the fuse. by miracle both wings and tail surfaces received no damage. Kevin
Posted on: 3/15/2004 11:38 PM by Author "kevinf2501" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1628868