RE: 25% Cessna L-19/0-1 Bird Dog build
[quote]ORIGINAL: frank99 mr khodges i have a 1000$ to spend before my wife finds it, if you still have the L-19 thanks frank [/quote] Looks like Frank has himself an L-19 to finish. Hide that cash until I get everything boxed up.
Posted on: 2/3/2011 6:52 PM by Author "khodges" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10310755

RE: sig vs balsa usa 1/4 cub kit?
Both Sig and BUSA 1/4 kits are nice, the lines are more scale on the BUSA, and it lends itself better to mods. I have an older 1/4 scale BUSA J-3 kit available, as well as a set of BUSA's L-4 plans, and a set of Robart scale gear, and a dummy engine kit. Also have a GP float kit that will work with this plane. Anybody interested, let me know, I'll make a good price.
Posted on: 1/22/2011 3:41 PM by Author "khodges" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10280961

RE: Mazda MX-5 Miata
Haven't been on RCU more than once in about a year. Was just nosing around today and found this thread I started almost 2 years ago. I don't remember it, and at the time looking for a car was just a crazy notion. Well, July 2010 rolled around and I found a car, a 2000 Miata. Maybe not as powerful as an S2000, but exactly what I was looking for. Since I got it in July, I've put a performance suspension under it which included lowering it an inch, and a full exhaust with header, new wheels and tires. Came with the hardtop. As said above, it is a bit small, but I fit fine and it is very comfortable for long stretches. I've made it a daily driver, so I can park my diesel-hog truck. With fuel rolling over $3.25/gal, I don't want to drive that thing any more than necessary. The car gets 25-30 mpg, the best I've got is interstate at 70-80 mph. While not a drag racer, it will run 130, and the handling is incredible. Using an i-phone app, I've done .88 g lateral, with so-so all season tires. Plans down the road are for a second set of stickier tires, some additional appearance improvements, and possibly a supercharger. Lots of bolt-on kits available to put down anywhere from 175-250 rear wheel horsepower; consider this car only weighs 2100 pounds.
Posted on: 1/22/2011 3:33 PM by Author "khodges" in the forum "Cars & Trucks - Full Scale"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10280941

RE: Sig 1/5 Cub Build Help
Davidgeorge's solution is an elegant one. The small superstrong magnets that electrics use a lot to keep the battery compartment closed are perfect for this. Sig built the kit faithful to the fullscale in that the upper door closes on the lower one. I had a latch on the underside of my right wing so I could latch the window open. It would take a very snug fit to keep the upper door closed without some kind of fastener. In the propwash and slipstream it flaps like a barn door in a tornado. I guess Sig just left it to the builder to improvise. I've got a set of Robart scale gear for the 1/5 Sig. $90, NIB
Posted on: 4/11/2010 10:25 PM by Author "khodges" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9654107

RE: WACO YMF
[quote]ORIGINAL: pittsdriver There is nothing like flying open cockpit and I would encourage any one of you to jump at the chance if you can beg or buy a ride. [/quote] AMEN, Brother. The two absolute highlights of my times in an airplane were the rides in Waco Joe's UPF-7 and the Stearman ride I got over St. Louis. A close third, but just not the same without the wind in my face, was the approach and landing at AirVenture '08 in a V35B
Posted on: 3/16/2010 10:25 PM by Author "khodges" in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9588405

RE: WACO YMF
Here's the list of kits I have: BUSA 1/4 Fokker D-VII I have two German Aces of Iron pilots (unpainted); your choice of either "Hans" or "Richt" goes with the kit. Both are discontinued. I'll take $275 for the plane and pilot. BUSA's price on the plane is $313.95 BUSA 1/4 Nieuport 11 BUSA price $211.95, I'll take $175 BUSA 1/4 J-3 BUSA price $180. I'll take $150 for it. I have the BUSA plans to build it as a L-4, and a discontinued dummy engine kit. I'll sell all of it for $170. BUSA 1/4 SPAD XIII BUSA price $365. I have two Aces of Iron "Eddie"s, one painted and one unpainted, your choice (see painted one below) I also have a pair of BUSA Vickers gun kits (BUSA price, $22.25 ea.), and a set of DuBro scale wheels. All of it for $325. FunAero 1/5 SE-5a $115, don't know the mfg price, I think it was around $150 Buyer pays shipping on all deals
Posted on: 3/7/2010 10:53 PM by Author "khodges" in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9563099

RE: WACO YMF
Anybody interested in an Ikon 1/5 scale UPF-7 kit? Just as I bought it, nothing's been removed, box only opened once. $150, buyer pays shipping. Got several 1/4 scale BUSA kits also. PM me.
Posted on: 3/3/2010 8:50 PM by Author "khodges" in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9552766

RE: basswood ?
Basswood and spruce can be used interchangeably for most of our plane building applications. basswood has an ultimate strength about 92% of spruce. It has a higher bending strength but is more brittle. In other words, if you took a piece of basswood and a piece of spruce, of the same dimensions, and slowly bent them, the spruce would break first. A sudden shock load with a bending force would probably break the basswood first (such as a wing striking an obstacle in flight. The difference might be negligible). Compression strength of spruce is better than basswood parallel to the grain. Weight of the two is very similar. Basswood has a finer, more even grain and can be carved more easily. Lastly, basswood is classified a hardwood, spruce is a softwood, but that has more to do with leaf-shedding than actual hardness of the wood.
Posted on: 3/2/2010 10:42 PM by Author "khodges" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9550187

RE: 25% Cessna L-19/0-1 Bird Dog build
[quote]ORIGINAL: RICMOD5634 Ken: One other ? if I may. What was your reasoning for using the Smart fly? [/quote] Redundant power system. I planned on having two 2700 mAh battery packs. The power bus will send power to the receiver from the battery with the best charge, and if one battery craps out for any reason, it switches to the good battery totally. It also allows multiple servos to a single channel without having to "Y" connect them. I can't remember which one I have right now, since it's 2 years old, there are probably models out now that do things even better. I've agonized over whether I really want to sell it, which is why no negotiations on price. anybody wants it for a grand can have it, but otherwise I'll keep it, maybe one day finish it. I also have four BUSA 1/4 scale kits for sale, a 1/5 scale Ikon UPF-7 WACO, a 1/5 scale FunAero SE-5a and some other stuff.
Posted on: 3/2/2010 9:54 PM by Author "khodges" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9550034

RE: 25% Cessna L-19/0-1 Bird Dog build
[quote]ORIGINAL: RICMOD5634 1/5 Dawg Ken/Chic: Or any one else who wants to chime in. ? On Ram lite circuit boards. They don't leave any room for mounting these, any suggestions? Can they be laid flat between layers of foam and placed under the floor, or do they get warm/hot and need to have air circulate around them. I have three boards and going to power them with a 6v bat.. Also one rx and bat. will also go under the floor and the satilite rx on cabin side 2.4 JR. Rich F. [/quote] My guess is that the board won't even get warm, not enough current flow. My plan was to place all the electronics under the floor. Flights would only be 10-15 minutes tops, not much time for heat, and as I mentioned, too little current draw to worry about heat. Anybody out there interested in buying a BirdDog? All the basic stucture is complete and sheeted. Empennage has not been attached, and wing LE's need shaping and tips attached and shaped. All flap and aileron linkages are completely concealed, installed and tested. Flexrod tubes for elevator and rudder are installed, throttle linkage is setup and all servos are mounted. Throttle servo is a Futaba 3001, all others are 645MG HI-TEC. Engine goes with it, Zenoah G45, with Pitts muffler. It has the wheels, tires and main gear from Vaillancourt, custom scale tailwheel made by me. You can look back through this thread for detail photos, you can see this is a quality construction and was aimed for ultimate detail. I have a complete cockpit detail kit to go with it. Electronics include a SmartFly power bus, 8 channel Futaba 2.4GHz RX (never been used) Ram lighting system, includes nav lights and Mars beacon. Operating landing lights come on when flaps deploy. $1000 gets it, no price negotiations, buyer pays shipping, or will deliver within 100 mile radius of Hickory, NC
Posted on: 3/1/2010 11:48 PM by Author "khodges" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9547554

RE: Pilot needs painting/what colours?
Not as good an effort as the "Eddie's". German pilots sometimes covered their faces with a balm to try to prevent frostbite and windburn and it had a creamy appearance to it. I tried to capture this look with the generic Aces pilot. He's also smaller, at 1/5 scale so the details were abit more difficult, as the others are 1/4 scale. I've done several of the Aces pilots for others, but don't have any pics. I did Hans (retired now) and the Fliegertruppen #4. I still have one each of those that I haven't painted yet, hopefully to go in a BUSA D-VII that's sitting around waiting to get built.
Posted on: 1/28/2010 9:43 PM by Author "khodges" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9457045

RE: 25% Cessna L-19/0-1 Bird Dog build
Just chiming in to keep this thread up front. I haven't been working on anything, but looks like some other of you have been staying busy. I haven't been on here since around Christmas.
Posted on: 1/24/2010 9:01 PM by Author "khodges" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9444875

RE: Pilot needs painting/what colours?
Go to www.acesofiron.com/paint.htm. They have great tips on painting pilot figures. This is what I came up with after following their instructions:
Posted on: 1/24/2010 8:33 PM by Author "khodges" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9444809

RE: Inverting a 4-Stroke Glow
Crankcase pressure will push the oil out, regardless of which way it points. Just route a piece of fuel tubing out the bottom of the cowl connected to the nipple. The nipple used to come out of the back plate, but was relocated to where it is now so the front bearing will get more lubrication.
Posted on: 1/24/2010 8:26 PM by Author "khodges" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9444778

RE: National Museum of the United Sates Air Force
[quote]ORIGINAL: gary9648 I'm sorry for my misleading you possibly, the space shuttle needs a lot more than 6500 ft to land. It will be decommissioned, cleaned of all hazardous chemicals and then piggy-backed to the museum on a 747. [/quote] I can't see NASA, or the USAF taking that kind of chance to bring a shuttle to the museum. All the landing distances I can find for a 747-100 with minimum weights are at the very limit of 6500 feet. With the shuttle aboard in transport configuration, that's another 172,000 lb of weight. And once it's there, the 747 still has to leave, and the minimum takeoff distance is also at the very ragged edge of 6500-7000 feet which would leave NO safety margin. Considering the approaches into the field (see pic below), there is no margin of error at all. Seems like Wright Patterson AFB's 5L/23R, at 12,601 ft, would be the place to bring it in, and then "truck" it to the Museum; which would be pretty neat to watch. I made this pic in August 2008 from 8000 ft while returning from Oshkosh
Posted on: 12/11/2009 7:25 PM by Author "khodges" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9322980

RE: Info on high wing taildragger Fairfield
Beautiful planes, the Fairchilds. Which one of these was like yours? I can't for the life of me remember the models of the red one or the smaller blue and white one (with wheel pants). The larger one is a Model 71 and was an early passenger liner.
Posted on: 12/8/2009 9:52 PM by Author "khodges" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9315254

RE: Incredible modeler
His work is indeed beautiful, and meticulous, but these are static models. Check out Carlos Rangel's site, www.allmetalplane.com. His planes all fly, and he builds them using the fullscale's blueprints. Graeme Mears has also built several flying all metal planes, not the least of which was a 2003 Top Gun winner Super Cub.
Posted on: 12/8/2009 9:37 PM by Author "khodges" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9315207

RE: Are there elevator pull-pull systems?
[quote]ORIGINAL: H5487 Rodney, What is ''positive Ackerman'' and can you give me a link to the atricle that you mentioned? Many thanks, Harvey [/quote] "Ackerman" refers to the pivot point of the hinge relative to the position of the control horn's tip (where the control wire or rod is attached). Neutral would be with the tip exactly over the hinge point, negative and positive (I forget which is which) would be forward or behind the hinge point. Ackerman controls how much constant tension, or development of slack or increasing tension occurs in the control wires during control movement. You definitely do NOT want increasing tension, as it strains both the servos and mounting points of the control horns on the surfaces. Some slack on a slower flying plane with a large control surface is fine. The slack will develop on the "push" side of the control, as air pressure on the control surface will hold the "pull" wire in tension. A fast plane or one with a smaller control surface will develop flutter more quickly with increasing slack in the wires. I've used a pull-pull setup once on an elevator system once, with great result. I did it primarily for scale detail, as it was a WWI plane (Bristol M-1). I used a single servo and bell-cranked it to a horizontal rod which had 2 arms, one for each pair of top and bottom wires. My elevator halves are tied together with a central rod, so if any one wire were to break, there is redundant control. Like Rodney mentioned, I ran my wires through tubes to the exit points on the fuse. I used neutral Ackerman, and ensured all the tubes and pathways were symmetrical. this model was sort of a testbed for what I wanted to do on my later, larger scale WWI planes. The beauty of using the bellcrank and rod is that you can place the servo way up front if needed for balance, and run the rod back to the horizontal control, which allows you to shorten the runs of the control wires in the pull-pull setup. This can be for convenience of linkage location, and shorter wires are easier to maintain in adjustment for tension. In the interior pics, you can see both the rudder pull-pull wires and the elevator pull-pull with the bellcrank arm to the servo, and the wires entering the tubes. I used coated leader line of about 25 pound test for my wires. This plane is 1/6 scale; I'll use at least 50 pound test for a 1/4 scale model.
Posted on: 12/8/2009 9:10 PM by Author "khodges" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9315112

RE: Stinson L-5
Roy Vaillancourt has some excellent 1/4 scale and 1/3 scale plans for the L-5. 1/4 scale is 102" wingspan, reducing by half would give you slightly larger than you're looking for.
Posted on: 11/19/2009 11:34 PM by Author "khodges" in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9266696

RE: Changing an airfoil profile
[quote]ORIGINAL: Mode One Does the SPAD have lightening holes? SPAD used a pile of ribs in their wings! My guess is Balsa USA may have cut down on the amount of ribs used in the wing, also. [/quote] The fullscale wing has a top edge "bow" and a bottom edge "bow" with connections between them (not a trusswork). The wing has little cantilevered strength. With all the wires in place and properly tuned, each wing depended on the other for rigidity. The BUSA kit has a correct rib count. That's one of their advertising statements. I also believe that cap strips are not used. Shoot, I'm just going to have to drag the dang thing out and look at it.
Posted on: 11/15/2009 8:57 PM by Author "khodges" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9256275

RE: Changing an airfoil profile
[quote]ORIGINAL: abufletcher Seth, I have to say that I'm impressed with your technical prowess! [/quote] So am I, but I had to take some tylenol after working through the included math[:D] The Gottingen profile is what I'm after. It looks a lot like the profile allanflowers showed the picture of, and also looks a lot like the profile that BUSA uses on the 1/6 Bristol.. It's still thick enough in the spar area for modern cantilever construction techniques, but substantially less bulky looking than the flat bottom design BUSA uses on the SPAD. Even if I was after much more precise scale, I still want a plane that doesn't present any serious problems with flying it. The fullscale was very prone to stalls at low airspeeds and high AOA situations, making it a dangerous plane for the novice pilot. I don't expect a trainer-like flying characteristic, but if the Gottingen airfoil performs anything like the undercambered profile the bristol has, it will be fine. Seth, could you set me up with that profile set to the chord of the SPAD's wings? I don't have the data in front of me, do any of you guys know what the chord is on the kit? PM me and I'll give you my e-mail, if you could send me a drawing to scale. Thank goodness the wing is constant chord (except the ailerons, but that shouldn't be a problem to extend that small amount) Thanks for everyone's input. I wish I could get an injection of motivation to get off my a$$ and finish my BirdDog, so I can get back to what I really like-fabric covered airplanes!!!
Posted on: 11/15/2009 2:55 AM by Author "khodges" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9254661

RE: Changing an airfoil profile
[quote]ORIGINAL: BobH It may be possible to draw an under cambered airfoil on the existing ribs sufficient to satisfy a more scale look. I doubt that it would effect the over all flying of the plane all that much. What won't be scale looking are the leading and trailing edges. I like the BUSA Spad myself and they fly very good. Having built a couple of very scale WWI planes I understand the issues with the scale look issues. If you want scale wings then you'll have to have scale rigging. I don't think there's a way around that. The best you can do is have a ''sorta'' scale look and be happy :) [/quote] Drawing the undercambered airfoil on the present ribs is sort of what I was looking for, just want a slightly thinner profile. Anything would be an improvement in terms of appearance. I realize that holding to the cantilevered construction of the model will still give a much thicker wing. Using an alternative to hardwood or balsa for the spar would permit thinning the wing in this area by about 25% of the "stock" wing. I have a source for carbon fiber locally which is extremely stiff and weighs about the same as basswood or spruce. I've repaired several wing spars using it and came out with an immensely strong wing. I fully intend to do the entire spider's web of rigging. Making it functional requires having equal and correct tension on all wires, which is prohibitive to set up regularly if you remove the top and bottom wings separately. Making right and left wing sections and removing the top and bottom halves as a unit is probably the best way to go. The bottom wing has a proper parting line where it attaches to the fuse, but the top wing on the fullscale is a single wing from side to side. I suppose a tightly engineered parting line at the cabane struts would be the best place to separate the top wing, and have a short center section between the cabanes that remains on the fuse. I've never built a kit that I didn't modify in some way to satisfy the "quest for greater scale fidelity". I don't expect this one to come out looking like a GTM or Reeves version would, but I just want to make it a bit better than BUSA had in mind. As abufletcher mentioned, it may be too difficult to reshape the kits ribs due to the lightening holes. It's been a long while since i had the wood out of the box to look at that sort of thing. I certainly don't plan to recut all umpteen hundred ribs just to satisfy the scale itch. If that's the case, I will just build it as is.
Posted on: 11/13/2009 11:52 PM by Author "khodges" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9252437

Changing an airfoil profile
One of these days, if I ever get back into building, I've got a BUSA SPAD XIII to build. The airfoil on the fullscale, as most WWI afficianados know, is fairly thin and undercambered. The model's is pretty much a flatbottomed one, and fairly thick, which sort of makes the model look pudgy. I understand the reasons for doing it that way (better lift coefficient and a stiffer wing, so functional wires aren't required), but just wondered if anyone has modified the airfoil to something in between what the model has and what the fullscale is. Something similar to the Bristol M-1 that BUSA also makes. It is undercambered, but still thick enough at the spar to have sufficient strength to do without flying wires. Something that still has good enough lift to fly it well, but a bit "leaner" looking for scale appearance. I was thinking of using carbon fiber rod or box beam as a spar. It could be made a bit smaller in cross section than balsa or hardwood, so the wing could be thinner, but remain strong and stiff enough not to need FUNCTIONAL flying wires. I still plan to add the wires, but the SPAD wings look like a dang suspension bridge with all the struts and wires, and I want to be able to disassemble for transport and not have to "retune" the wing every time it gets reassembled. Anyone got a "magic" airfoil shape?
Posted on: 11/12/2009 10:20 PM by Author "khodges" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9249925

RE: Charlie Kellogg's TBM Avenger Build
[quote]ORIGINAL: butlern Hopefully they'll do the job and force the air over the cylinders and out the cowl flaps. I might also open the cowl flaps a little wider, just to be sure there's plenty of negative pressure back there to suck out the hot air around the cylinders. [/quote] I've been lurking and reading your amazing build, and am in total awe. I've about given up building, I was working on a Vailly "Dawg" along with Chic, trying to keep up with him. (little known is I had to break his arm to catch up to him, the surgery thing is a ruse, ha, ha). Now he's put a hex on me to get even. Just kidding, Chic my friend, hope you know that. Anyway, just wondering, are you building functional cowl flaps? There is a guy in my club with a Bearcat, don't know whose plans, but large scale, about the same as your project. His has cowl flaps with some kind of linkage to a single servo, and it is mixed to his throttle so that the flaps are full open from idle to about 1/4 and then start to close after that, but they still pass plenty of air for cooling at flight speeds. Looks fantastic in operation.
Posted on: 10/27/2009 11:17 PM by Author "khodges" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9208082

RE: New Updates! 1:1 scale Sopwith Pup and Fokker Triplane builds
Those are going to be awesome, to use a very overworked word. There was a guy in St. Louis, named Ken Kotik, who was building a fullscale Dr-1. I got to see it at a Waco fly-in back in '07. Sadly, he passed away very unexpectedly, I don't know what has happened to the plane. He had the fuse frame, landing gear and wings framework done when I saw it. He was an aviation artist, and his workmanship on the plane was as good as his artwork. He also owned a Piper L-4 that was a Best in Show at Oshkosh back in '05 (I think); he did the restoration.
Posted on: 10/27/2009 10:56 PM by Author "khodges" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9208012

RE: WACO YMF
Unfortunately, that's the best one I have. The photo that came from off the 'net was only about 145KB, so it won't enlarge very much without showing the pixels. What scale are you building your ARE? Do you know anyone good at graphic art? It would be easy for them to take this image and redraw it any size you want. If you will give me the exact width from wingtip to wingtip, and from the top of the camera to the bottom, I'll make a drawing for you. I can also see if the guy we have locally can resize this photo and make a couple of vinyl appliques for you. He is pretty darn good, he's made hundreds of stars, roundels, nose art, etc for local builders around here. I haven't seen him in a while, he's in his late '70s, but if you're interested, I'll see what he can do. You shouldn't need much larger than the bigger image available on the forum (you know, when you click the image and get a bigger one) for 1/4 scale.
Posted on: 10/25/2009 10:03 AM by Author "khodges" in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9200364

RE: 25% Cessna L-19/0-1 Bird Dog build
[quote]ORIGINAL: redtail Hey Ken, are you out there still looking at your build thread? Chic [/quote] Yeah, I'm still here. Still not doing any building, but I actually started cleaning up my workshop the other day. It's a good sign, but I just don't have much time for building right now, even if I had the desire. I'm so far out of the "feel" of building, it will be like a new hobby all over again when I get back to the building board. I sold my UMF to a guy in NY, and have (or maybe had) a guy interested in my L-4. I also sold my BUSA Bristol M-1 to a friend. The only planes I have right now are a Hangar 9 Cub on floats, and an old Bud Nosen trainer. I honestly have been busier than a one armed paper hanger lately. It's past dark when I come inside from lawn care, or taxi duties, or maintaining my rental house, or work. I only websurf about one or two days a week now, haven't been here in several weeks. Glad to hear you can use both arms again, Chic. You're gonna have to take the lead on this build, now. Maybe I can catch up this winter. I would really like to finish this plane, I hate having something half done just lying around. I keep toying with the idea of selling all but a couple of my remaining kits, but I keep thinking that some day I might regret it, if I get started back building again. I don't have a place to store them if I do build them.
Posted on: 10/24/2009 10:25 PM by Author "khodges" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9199577

RE: WACO YMF
[quote]ORIGINAL: SuperCub Man Now if I decide to copy ''The News'' aircraft or not depends mainly on wether I can get a reproducable copy of the large logo on the fuse!! It would not be a very good facimile if I didn't have ''The News'' logo! Can you advise where I might get such a beast? Cheers [/quote] Will this one do? I was planning at one time to either build a SRE/ARE or to buy Sig's SRE ARF and do the same thing to it that I did with the Cox UMF ARF. The "News" ARE was my scheme of choice, it's a beautiful bird.
Posted on: 10/24/2009 9:53 PM by Author "khodges" in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9199486

RE: WACO YMF
Well, guys, Congratulate.....or commiserate with, LazyAce. He's now the owner of the un-ARF'ed UMF I had. It made the truck trip from NC to Buffalo in about the same time it would have taken to fly the fullscale there. I'm going to miss her, and I hope Lazyace gets as much enjoyment from her as I did. She has a lot of life left. For now, I'm out of the flying business, or building, too. Just no time, no inclination. I plan to sell most of what I have that's in the box (kits),but will keep my BirdDog and a couple of WWI planes. Maybe (probably) when retirement arrives. I hope before then. I'm still gonna be lurking and watching. Maybe another Waco will catch my eye. They're the most beautiful bipes in the air. One last parting shot:
Posted on: 9/19/2009 10:39 AM by Author "khodges" in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9107575

RE: SAITO 56 INVERTED
That small nipple is simply a crankcase "breather". As long as the line from it doesn't get kinked, you'll be okay with the length. If you're getting some seepage through the front bearing seal, it simply means you getting oil to the bearing. A bit messy maybe, but NBD, just keep it wiped off the painted areas. Saito moved the vent to that area to supply more oil to the front bearing. Depending on the engine model, it may be there or on the backplate. It's more convenient on the backplate, but maybe works better for the engine where yours is.
Posted on: 9/19/2009 10:10 AM by Author "khodges" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9107525