RE: Stinson L-5
Roy Vaillancourt has some excellent 1/4 scale and 1/3 scale plans for the L-5. 1/4 scale is 102" wingspan, reducing by half would give you slightly larger than you're looking for.
Posted on: 11/19/2009 11:34 PM by Author "khodges" in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9266696

RE: Changing an airfoil profile
[quote]ORIGINAL: Mode One Does the SPAD have lightening holes? SPAD used a pile of ribs in their wings! My guess is Balsa USA may have cut down on the amount of ribs used in the wing, also. [/quote] The fullscale wing has a top edge "bow" and a bottom edge "bow" with connections between them (not a trusswork). The wing has little cantilevered strength. With all the wires in place and properly tuned, each wing depended on the other for rigidity. The BUSA kit has a correct rib count. That's one of their advertising statements. I also believe that cap strips are not used. Shoot, I'm just going to have to drag the dang thing out and look at it.
Posted on: 11/15/2009 8:57 PM by Author "khodges" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9256275

RE: Changing an airfoil profile
[quote]ORIGINAL: abufletcher Seth, I have to say that I'm impressed with your technical prowess! [/quote] So am I, but I had to take some tylenol after working through the included math[:D] The Gottingen profile is what I'm after. It looks a lot like the profile allanflowers showed the picture of, and also looks a lot like the profile that BUSA uses on the 1/6 Bristol.. It's still thick enough in the spar area for modern cantilever construction techniques, but substantially less bulky looking than the flat bottom design BUSA uses on the SPAD. Even if I was after much more precise scale, I still want a plane that doesn't present any serious problems with flying it. The fullscale was very prone to stalls at low airspeeds and high AOA situations, making it a dangerous plane for the novice pilot. I don't expect a trainer-like flying characteristic, but if the Gottingen airfoil performs anything like the undercambered profile the bristol has, it will be fine. Seth, could you set me up with that profile set to the chord of the SPAD's wings? I don't have the data in front of me, do any of you guys know what the chord is on the kit? PM me and I'll give you my e-mail, if you could send me a drawing to scale. Thank goodness the wing is constant chord (except the ailerons, but that shouldn't be a problem to extend that small amount) Thanks for everyone's input. I wish I could get an injection of motivation to get off my a$$ and finish my BirdDog, so I can get back to what I really like-fabric covered airplanes!!!
Posted on: 11/15/2009 2:55 AM by Author "khodges" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9254661

RE: Changing an airfoil profile
[quote]ORIGINAL: BobH It may be possible to draw an under cambered airfoil on the existing ribs sufficient to satisfy a more scale look. I doubt that it would effect the over all flying of the plane all that much. What won't be scale looking are the leading and trailing edges. I like the BUSA Spad myself and they fly very good. Having built a couple of very scale WWI planes I understand the issues with the scale look issues. If you want scale wings then you'll have to have scale rigging. I don't think there's a way around that. The best you can do is have a ''sorta'' scale look and be happy :) [/quote] Drawing the undercambered airfoil on the present ribs is sort of what I was looking for, just want a slightly thinner profile. Anything would be an improvement in terms of appearance. I realize that holding to the cantilevered construction of the model will still give a much thicker wing. Using an alternative to hardwood or balsa for the spar would permit thinning the wing in this area by about 25% of the "stock" wing. I have a source for carbon fiber locally which is extremely stiff and weighs about the same as basswood or spruce. I've repaired several wing spars using it and came out with an immensely strong wing. I fully intend to do the entire spider's web of rigging. Making it functional requires having equal and correct tension on all wires, which is prohibitive to set up regularly if you remove the top and bottom wings separately. Making right and left wing sections and removing the top and bottom halves as a unit is probably the best way to go. The bottom wing has a proper parting line where it attaches to the fuse, but the top wing on the fullscale is a single wing from side to side. I suppose a tightly engineered parting line at the cabane struts would be the best place to separate the top wing, and have a short center section between the cabanes that remains on the fuse. I've never built a kit that I didn't modify in some way to satisfy the "quest for greater scale fidelity". I don't expect this one to come out looking like a GTM or Reeves version would, but I just want to make it a bit better than BUSA had in mind. As abufletcher mentioned, it may be too difficult to reshape the kits ribs due to the lightening holes. It's been a long while since i had the wood out of the box to look at that sort of thing. I certainly don't plan to recut all umpteen hundred ribs just to satisfy the scale itch. If that's the case, I will just build it as is.
Posted on: 11/13/2009 11:52 PM by Author "khodges" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9252437

RE: Charlie Kellogg's TBM Avenger Build
[quote]ORIGINAL: butlern Hopefully they'll do the job and force the air over the cylinders and out the cowl flaps. I might also open the cowl flaps a little wider, just to be sure there's plenty of negative pressure back there to suck out the hot air around the cylinders. [/quote] I've been lurking and reading your amazing build, and am in total awe. I've about given up building, I was working on a Vailly "Dawg" along with Chic, trying to keep up with him. (little known is I had to break his arm to catch up to him, the surgery thing is a ruse, ha, ha). Now he's put a hex on me to get even. Just kidding, Chic my friend, hope you know that. Anyway, just wondering, are you building functional cowl flaps? There is a guy in my club with a Bearcat, don't know whose plans, but large scale, about the same as your project. His has cowl flaps with some kind of linkage to a single servo, and it is mixed to his throttle so that the flaps are full open from idle to about 1/4 and then start to close after that, but they still pass plenty of air for cooling at flight speeds. Looks fantastic in operation.
Posted on: 10/27/2009 11:17 PM by Author "khodges" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9208082

RE: New Updates! 1:1 scale Sopwith Pup and Fokker Triplane builds
Those are going to be awesome, to use a very overworked word. There was a guy in St. Louis, named Ken Kotik, who was building a fullscale Dr-1. I got to see it at a Waco fly-in back in '07. Sadly, he passed away very unexpectedly, I don't know what has happened to the plane. He had the fuse frame, landing gear and wings framework done when I saw it. He was an aviation artist, and his workmanship on the plane was as good as his artwork. He also owned a Piper L-4 that was a Best in Show at Oshkosh back in '05 (I think); he did the restoration.
Posted on: 10/27/2009 10:56 PM by Author "khodges" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9208012

RE: WACO YMF
Unfortunately, that's the best one I have. The photo that came from off the 'net was only about 145KB, so it won't enlarge very much without showing the pixels. What scale are you building your ARE? Do you know anyone good at graphic art? It would be easy for them to take this image and redraw it any size you want. If you will give me the exact width from wingtip to wingtip, and from the top of the camera to the bottom, I'll make a drawing for you. I can also see if the guy we have locally can resize this photo and make a couple of vinyl appliques for you. He is pretty darn good, he's made hundreds of stars, roundels, nose art, etc for local builders around here. I haven't seen him in a while, he's in his late '70s, but if you're interested, I'll see what he can do. You shouldn't need much larger than the bigger image available on the forum (you know, when you click the image and get a bigger one) for 1/4 scale.
Posted on: 10/25/2009 10:03 AM by Author "khodges" in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9200364

RE: 25% Cessna L-19/0-1 Bird Dog build
[quote]ORIGINAL: redtail Hey Ken, are you out there still looking at your build thread? Chic [/quote] Yeah, I'm still here. Still not doing any building, but I actually started cleaning up my workshop the other day. It's a good sign, but I just don't have much time for building right now, even if I had the desire. I'm so far out of the "feel" of building, it will be like a new hobby all over again when I get back to the building board. I sold my UMF to a guy in NY, and have (or maybe had) a guy interested in my L-4. I also sold my BUSA Bristol M-1 to a friend. The only planes I have right now are a Hangar 9 Cub on floats, and an old Bud Nosen trainer. I honestly have been busier than a one armed paper hanger lately. It's past dark when I come inside from lawn care, or taxi duties, or maintaining my rental house, or work. I only websurf about one or two days a week now, haven't been here in several weeks. Glad to hear you can use both arms again, Chic. You're gonna have to take the lead on this build, now. Maybe I can catch up this winter. I would really like to finish this plane, I hate having something half done just lying around. I keep toying with the idea of selling all but a couple of my remaining kits, but I keep thinking that some day I might regret it, if I get started back building again. I don't have a place to store them if I do build them.
Posted on: 10/24/2009 10:25 PM by Author "khodges" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9199577

RE: WACO YMF
[quote]ORIGINAL: SuperCub Man Now if I decide to copy ''The News'' aircraft or not depends mainly on wether I can get a reproducable copy of the large logo on the fuse!! It would not be a very good facimile if I didn't have ''The News'' logo! Can you advise where I might get such a beast? Cheers [/quote] Will this one do? I was planning at one time to either build a SRE/ARE or to buy Sig's SRE ARF and do the same thing to it that I did with the Cox UMF ARF. The "News" ARE was my scheme of choice, it's a beautiful bird.
Posted on: 10/24/2009 9:53 PM by Author "khodges" in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9199486

RE: WACO YMF
Well, guys, Congratulate.....or commiserate with, LazyAce. He's now the owner of the un-ARF'ed UMF I had. It made the truck trip from NC to Buffalo in about the same time it would have taken to fly the fullscale there. I'm going to miss her, and I hope Lazyace gets as much enjoyment from her as I did. She has a lot of life left. For now, I'm out of the flying business, or building, too. Just no time, no inclination. I plan to sell most of what I have that's in the box (kits),but will keep my BirdDog and a couple of WWI planes. Maybe (probably) when retirement arrives. I hope before then. I'm still gonna be lurking and watching. Maybe another Waco will catch my eye. They're the most beautiful bipes in the air. One last parting shot:
Posted on: 9/19/2009 10:39 AM by Author "khodges" in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9107575

RE: SAITO 56 INVERTED
That small nipple is simply a crankcase "breather". As long as the line from it doesn't get kinked, you'll be okay with the length. If you're getting some seepage through the front bearing seal, it simply means you getting oil to the bearing. A bit messy maybe, but NBD, just keep it wiped off the painted areas. Saito moved the vent to that area to supply more oil to the front bearing. Depending on the engine model, it may be there or on the backplate. It's more convenient on the backplate, but maybe works better for the engine where yours is.
Posted on: 9/19/2009 10:10 AM by Author "khodges" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9107525

RE: Ikon N'west kits
Ed, that's all good to know regarding Ikon's history and Aaron's intentions. I talked with him several times when I was interested in the UPF-7 kit. Aaron sounded like a good guy, but he sure sounded overextended with his railroad job and the other things he was doing. From the customer's perspective, though, it's all beside the point; which is, he was making promises he could not possibly keep, taking money and not sending product. I'm sure his intentions were initially honorable, and may still be so. I wish him no ill will, especially if he's fallen on bad health and hard times. I know he wanted to provide what we all wanted, and some of the planes Ikon modeled , like you said, aren't available from anyone else, in any scale. His first and biggest mistake was to say he could do it, all the time knowing he could not, but led the customer to believe otherwise. I'd have had no problem at all, if he'd just said, "I have Ikon on hold, and no kits are available right now". Whether it's him or someone else that does it, I'd like to see Ikon resurrected, modernized, and producing again.
Posted on: 8/24/2009 5:40 PM by Author "khodges" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9041347

RE: Need help spraying clear coat on Latex.
I painted several models using latex on Solartex fabric. I clearcoated them with Top Flite Lustercote clear. Never had a problem with compatibility, and it gave a hard, durable, fuel-PROOF finish to 15% nitro. I think the problem might be with the flat finish latex. It has a "rough" feel as part of its design to not reflect light (the gloss 'shine'). Clearcoats might gloss it up some, but the finish won't be smooth.
Posted on: 8/23/2009 11:04 PM by Author "khodges" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9039264

RE: CARBURETORS, BERNOULLI, AIR COMPRESSION, LEAN OR RICH????
[quote]ORIGINAL: airbusdrvr will the mixture go more lean or rich as the airspeed is increased? Or will there be no effect? [/quote] All this other discussion is just lace on the petticoat. Bernoulli's Law is simply that the faster air moves, the lower its pressure. The fuel/air ratio is set by the needle, so whatever the cause to force more air through the carb throat (forward velocity, rpm of engine, etc) the fuel/air ratio will remain the same. Faster air through the carb throat just pulls more fuel through the jet, and the ratio is set by the needle position. Someone mentioned the viscosity of the fuel having an effect. True, but you'd really have to be shoving air through the venturi much faster than any means available on a model airplane.
Posted on: 8/23/2009 4:07 PM by Author "khodges" in the forum "Aerodynamics"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9038220

RE: BUSA Dehaviland DH4
[quote]ORIGINAL: pettit According to my photos, the aileron cables run inside the bottom wing, back to the bottoms of both ailerons, then connecting cables between both ailerons, then more cables forward to the front of the top wing, then across the wing qwhere they join. The control stick connects inside the cockpit to the lower cables, probably through more pulleys. Any ideas on a scale elevator linkage, especially the actuator levers outside the cockpit? [/quote] Whoever designed the flight controls on the DH-4 must have been the only one in the world who sold the cables used. He'd have gotten rich off one airplane. The aileron cables run along the OUTSIDE of both top and bottom wings at the L.E. Lower cable is attached to the stick, exits fuse just forward of the LE, feeds through two leather "slides" attached to the LE, and then is spliced to a second piece of cable. One cable passes through a pulley block attached to the LE and makes a right turn to the inboard end of the bottom wing aileron and is fastened to the underside. Second portion of the cable bypasses the first pulley block, enters a second one further out the wing, and makes a turn to the outboard portion of the same aileron, where it is also fastened to the underside. These two cables then continue to the top aileron and across the top of the upper wing to two more pulley blocks like the ones on the bottom wing. Then the cable becomes a single one again as it crosses to the other side of the plane along the leading edge of the top wing, split into two ........ same as the other side, and eventually makes its way back into the fuse and attaches to the stick again. I'll bet there must be close to 400 feet of cable, just for the ailerons. There is no redundancy, if the cable breaks anywhere along its length, there is no aileron control as one side pulls against the other. As for the elevator, there is a bellcrank outside the fuse that attaches to the stick, and two cables that go in a straight line back to the elevator, one to the top, and one to the bottom; they actually crossand the one going to the top of the elevator has a pulley at the leading edge of the horizontal stab. This is repeated on both sides of the plane. The rudder cables exit the fuse from a slot just in front of the bellcrank and pass directly to their attachment on the rudder. Anybody ever jump out of this plane, they better jump hard, or they're liable to get snagged in these wires like in a spider's web.
Posted on: 8/23/2009 3:26 PM by Author "khodges" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9038146

RE: BUSA Dehaviland DH4
Dick, did you make that picture above? Did you make it to Oshkosh this year? That looks like the antique aircraft area at Oshkosh. Wish I could have gone this year, after last year I fell in love with the place. Just can't afford it yearly.
Posted on: 8/19/2009 10:03 PM by Author "khodges" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9029598

RE: Removing Fabric Covering
Try a heat gun, or an iron. While you pull on the material, heat the area that contacts the frame. Whether it's dope or some other covering adhesive, it will soften, and steady traction will pull it loose. There may be residual adhesive left on the frame; no worries, just sand everything smooth before recovering. If there is any color left that might show through the new cover, you can use a primer to cover it up, or if you plan to paint the new cover, the primer and cover coat will hide whatever color remains underneath the new covering.
Posted on: 8/15/2009 10:08 AM by Author "khodges" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9018032

RE: 25% Cessna L-19/0-1 Bird Dog build
[quote]ORIGINAL: RICMOD5634 I have to get a picture of the muffler pipes, as I was able to bend them back and cut them off at an angle ..... [/quote] Will these help? One also has a tidbit of the lettering you wanted[:)]
Posted on: 8/15/2009 9:51 AM by Author "khodges" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9018013

RE: 25% Cessna L-19/0-1 Bird Dog build
Rich, I looked at a lot of my detail shots and came up with the fact that no two "Dawgs" seem to have all the same markings, or have them in the same place. Some of this has to do with restoration and the references the restorer had. I'll go into my "One-Niner" book and see where the official locations are, and do some pics for you. Might take a few days. Most planes have "no push" on the elevators, rudder, and ailerons, and the cowling should have info on the SN#, variant, engine oil and gasoline requirements. I have some great "door art" pics, and a few of them have some of the "official markings" also.
Posted on: 8/13/2009 11:03 PM by Author "khodges" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9014930

RE: 25% Cessna L-19/0-1 Bird Dog build
Rich, I found another set of pics from a NC Forest Service BirdDog that I got to photograph. here's some better detail on the door hinges and release mechanism, and one of the rubber stops on the wing strut.
Posted on: 8/9/2009 10:36 PM by Author "khodges" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9003521

RE: 25% Cessna L-19/0-1 Bird Dog build
Rich, your Dawg is really coming along nicely! The detail is impressive, but I've got to call you on one detail in particular. Your door hinges are incorrect, specifically, the top hinge. On the full scale, the top door hinge is forward of the door opening. This makes the door swing down some as it opens. If the hinge were on the opening line, as the plane sits on its gear, the door would not stay open. with the door hinged as it is supposed to be, the door will "fall" open with the plane on its gear. It will open as far as the wing strut, which has a small rubber button that the door hits to prevent damage to either the strut or the door. 1st picture: door is open, notice the location of the top hinge, forward of the opening, and there is a strap which connects the door to the hinge. 2nd picture: door is closed, you can see the 'strap' that connects the door to the hinge. You can also see the release mechanism, which is the rod between the top and bottom hinges. At the midpoint of the rod is a bellcrank. The pivot of the bellcrank passes through the fuse skin to a twist handle just above the right rudder pedal on the right "kick panel". The pilot can jettison the door by twisting the handle. This turns the bellcrank, and the rods pull the hingepins, and the door falls away, hopefully not taking the right horizontal stabilizer off as it departs. 3rd pic is a parts diagram showing how the door assembly fits, and the release mechanism.
Posted on: 8/9/2009 10:22 PM by Author "khodges" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9003464

RE: trainee etiquette
My instructor was excited about my first solo as I was. those who love the hobby and can teach it to others usually get plenty of saisfaction just knowing they've helped someone else. Most don't want money. I gave my instructor a couple of gallons of his favorite glow fuel, he was tickled to death, as he was retired and on a fixed income, and didn't fly his own stuff a lot. He was a crackerjack teacher, though. He was a retired Army Aviator, flew OV-1's in SE Asia and had been a helicopter pilot and instructor as well.
Posted on: 8/5/2009 10:15 PM by Author "khodges" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8993592

RE: Building a shipping box
Interesting you started this thread, and we just talked about another airplane. The WACO you got is gorgeous, mine would have needed some refinishing work. I scanned through the previous posts to see how you were addressing the problem of getting a fragile item from A to B in one piece at minimum cost and maximum safety. I have been working on two boxes this weekend with the same goals in mind. The two biggest drawbacks to shipping model airplanes already built, is the size of the box and the total weight of the package. Both of these add cost to shipping, and we all want to keep that as low as possible. The things that dictate size are the tail section of the plane, and the length of the wings. If the wings are one-piece, it's worse than if they are two-piece, obviously. The length of the fuse also plays a role. Reinforcement of the package adds the weight we want to avoid. If we just built a big wooden box the size of a casket, placed the airplane parts in and filled the rest of the box with tightly packed styrofoam peanuts, we'd almost assuredly get the plane there unharmed, but shipping would cost more than the plane did. So we need to minimize package weight, without sacrificing strength. I've been fretting on how to pack my planes in their boxes, considering how many bags of peanuts I was going to have to use to fill all the empty space. I went last night with my wife to a really boring play, and just started thinking of how to pack things up. About the middle of Act One, I had two epiphanies: 1-I should have built two separate boxes for the WACO; one for the fuse and small pieces, and one for the wings. Two smaller boxes will ship cheaper than one great big one. Too bad I didn't come up with that before I built the box[:o] Oh, well, I'll bite it on that one. 2- Now that I have this great big box, I came up with the bulkhead idea that you mentioned. I'm now in the process of adding 3 major bulkheads across the box, and will cut parts of them away to make slots to hold the wings, and custom fit places for the cross section of the fuse. foam padding and bubble packaging will get wrapped around the fuse and wings where they fit in the bulkheads, a smaller box gets glued to the floor to hold the small stuff, and the rest of the box gets filled with.........AIR (I wondered if I could stuff helium-filled balloons around the plane parts to pad them, and also decrease the weight of the package, but too expensive, and helium leaks out to quickly). The bulkheads get reinforcements added to firm up the structure after the plane is secured, and then the box gets sealed up. It will still be big, but shouldn't weigh a terrible amount. Less stuff to get rid of for the recipient, too. I hate getting a package full of those peanuts, wondering what the hell I'm going to do with them. I've added the bulkheads, and was completely amazed at how much stiffer the box is, without being any heavier. I also had to glue two smaller boxes end-to-end to get one long enough. I bought a quart can of Weldwood Contact Cement and a bunch of 50-cent brushes. This stuff doesn't let go, is great for cardboard, and sets up very quickly, so there's very little waiting for glue to dry. I then tape all edges with clear packing tape to clean up the edges. The boxes I'm using were designed to ship 27" TV's in, and are triple-wall, so it's already stiff, but the length of the modified box needed reinforcement (75 inches long). I can see the look on the UPS guys when I drag that thing in. They'll probably ask Who is in it[:)]
Posted on: 8/2/2009 9:55 AM by Author "khodges" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - General"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8983356

RE: WACO YMF
[quote]ORIGINAL: RICKSTUBBZ French wheel[sm=75_75.gif] English wheel[sm=72_72.gif]...Heck, they are both from Europe[:D]. I am so embarrassed I could not get that right[sm=confused_smile.gif]. [/quote] Rick calls his a French Wheel 'cause he uses his tongue while working with it.
Posted on: 7/31/2009 11:48 PM by Author "khodges" in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8980501

RE: WACO YMF
[quote]ORIGINAL: Scotsman Well, a lot of smart arse R/C'ers anyway...(who know how to use internet search engines) [/quote] Actually, I took 3 years of Latin in H.S. I had a choice of French, Spanish, or Latin. I guess I should have taken Spanish, so I wouldn't have to worry about which part of the instruction sheet I was on. Doesn't mean I'm not a smart arse, though. Unless I run into Julius Caesar, I wasted three years of study.[:)]
Posted on: 7/31/2009 11:42 PM by Author "khodges" in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8980487

RE: WACO YMF
The abbreviation for pound (lb) comes from the Latin word "libra" which means 'scales' or 'balance' and that described a Roman unit of weight similar to a pound. The word "pound" is also derived from the Latin "pondus", meaning 'weight'.
Posted on: 7/30/2009 11:16 PM by Author "khodges" in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8977811

RE: AirBus A380 at Air Venture 2009
I hope the guy on the scooter doesn't direct him over to the North 40 camping area. I'd hate to have to push that bad boy in between a couple of Bonanzas or 172's
Posted on: 7/29/2009 10:23 PM by Author "khodges" in the forum "Airplanes - Full Scale"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8975126

RE: WACO YMF
[quote]ORIGINAL: Live Wire [quote]ORIGINAL: khodges Seriously, I haven't been on here much, this is new to me. I could care less what my score is. If all I rate is 100, and Livewire has 14 billion or something like that, it must be a score for most useless posts[:D][:D][:D] [/quote] [8|][;)][:D] [/quote] Is THAT what you're talking about? I just noticed you had a really high score
Posted on: 7/29/2009 12:07 AM by Author "khodges" in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8972534

RE: Where is William Wallace & his Cub Gear?
[quote]ORIGINAL: abufletcher If I were in your part of the country, I'd snap that up in a minute! [/quote] I'm only one hemisphere over from you[:)]
Posted on: 7/27/2009 4:42 PM by Author "khodges" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8968326

RE: WACO YMF
[quote]ORIGINAL: Stickbuilder Down at the bottom right corner is a tab to rate post. You can click on it and rank from one to 5 stars. It's petty and childish. It has been beaten to death in the clubhouse forum. Someone had too much time on their hands. It's political, and a popularity contest. I just gave your last post a 5 star rating. Bill, Waco Brother #1 [/quote] Thanks, but when it comes to playing politics I've always been one to buck the system and swim against the current, if for no other reason than to pi$$ people off. I'd rather not play the game their way, I'll see if I can get my score to ZERO. Do they give out negative numbers?
Posted on: 7/26/2009 9:47 PM by Author "khodges" in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8966277