RE: Great Planes Extra 27% 330s
[quote]ORIGINAL: skillet92 Krproton How do you like the 3 blade prop with the DL. How does the plane perform with the 3 blade compared to the 2 blade. [/quote] Hi skillet. I love the 3-blade. I have one on both my Extra and my Edge (both with DL50). I think top speed is a little faster, but the plane slows less during down lines and landing. But not enough to be a problem or anything. I think
Posted on: 10/26/2009 8:40 PM by Author "krproton" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9204388

RE: Great Planes Extra 27% 330s
With the JTech you'll have to make a small cutout for the part of the muffler where it bolts onto the engine. That's one of the reasons I use the Slimline Pitts instead - you don't need to make that extra cutout (but the Slmline is more expensive).
Posted on: 10/21/2009 7:39 PM by Author "krproton" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9191465

RE: Great Planes Extra 27% 330s
Hello ro347. Here's a link to the build thread I started on the Edge (you were asking for photos). There are many photos in the thread. Sorry it took me so long to answer your post. Tim http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7843944
Posted on: 10/21/2009 7:27 PM by Author "krproton" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9191769

RE: DL-50 engine
Guys, here's a link to earlier posts in this thread that describes everything you need to know about disassembling and assembling this engine. I've done it twice now (to repair damaged bearings/case from crashes). I consider my self a DL50 expert now (but I'm probably not really). http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7920688 Also, here are the same instructions written in my own words: [b] DL 50 Engine Assembly Instructions (Originally written by dlenginesaustralia)[/b] [b] I. Preparation/Assembly Notes: [/b] Loctite 620 Bearing Mount (High Temp) is required to securely mate the bearings to the crank shaft and to the crank case (and other parts as instructed). Bearing Mount can be purchased or ordered in small quantities (5ml – 15ml) for as little as $5.00 - $15.00 from ball bearing retailers. Protect your workbench and engine parts by working over a sheet of cardboard or other barrier. Clean all parts thoroughly for easier assembly and best adhesion of Bearing Mount. Do not use excessive Bearing Mount. Do not apply until ready to fit the parts. As you proceed, remove excess Bearing Mount with cloth. Keep all tools within reach so you can work quickly while parts are still hot. Wear leather gardening gloves when handling heated parts. [b] II. Crank Installation[/b] 1. Place front crank case half, rear bearing and propeller hub into oven heated to 280F. 2. After about ten minutes, working quickly, remove case from oven, apply Bearing Mount to case and outer race of front bearing. Install front bearing into case. 3. Replace front case/bearing assembly in oven to re heat for installation of crank shaft/rear bearing assy. 4. Working quickly again, remove rear bearing from oven, apply Bearing Mount to inner race of rear bearing and crank shaft. Tap bearing onto crank shaft with 15 – 16mm I.D. pipe applying pressure only to inner race of bearing—do not apply pressure to bearings, seal or outer race. 5. Install aluminum bearing spacer onto crankshaft. 6. Working quickly once more, remove front case/front bearing assy. from oven. Apply Bearing Mount to outer race of rear bearing and in case for rear bearing. Install crank/rear bearing assy. into case. Allow everything to cool. [b]III. Hub Installation[/b] 1. Apply Bearing Mount to woodruff key and crank shaft. Install key into crank shaft. 2. Remove propeller hub from oven. Turn off oven. Proceed immediately to the next step. 3. Working quickly and supporting center of crank assy. with hardwood dowel or similar (so as to keep force centered on crank shaft—not on con rod/counterbalance), lightly tap heated hub onto crank assy. just far enough to expose crank threads so prop shaft can be fitted. 4. If necessary, apply more heat to hub (using heat gun), then use a tool to hold hub while tightening prop shaft drawing hub the rest of the way down. [b]IV. Final Assembly[/b] 1. Install piston, wristpin, bearing and wristpin clips to con. rod. Be certain wrist pin clips are fully seated and the “tails� of the clips do not have any nicks in them which could cause them to break off inside the engine. Note: The arrow stamped into the top of the piston points toward the exhaust. The anti-rotation pin in the ring groove is located opposite the exhaust. 2. Join the case halves using a thin film of gasket sealer or the Loctite Bearing Mount used for bearing installation (which is thin, fuel proof and normally sufficient—if desired, Loctite 518 or 573/4 could also be used, but usually not necessary due to the good fit of the case halves). 3. Apply a drop of blue Loctite to the case bolts. Tighten evenly in a standard chris-cross pattern. 4. Lightly oil all parts including the piston ring and cylinder walls—the two-cycle premix oil you have been running your engine with is suitable. 5. Compress the piston ring with your fingers while sliding the piston into the cylinder. 6. Tighten the cylinder to the case halves with blue Loctite on the bolts.
Posted on: 10/15/2009 11:14 PM by Author "krproton" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9176932

RE: Great Planes Extra 27% 330s
Mine goes left during extended vertical climb too. Could use a degree or two more right thrust if using an oversize engine (like a 50cc).
Posted on: 10/15/2009 11:01 PM by Author "krproton" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9176906

RE: Great Planes Re-release of the Shoestring
The horizontal stab, elevators and rudder are flat. The vertical stab (fin) is slightly airfoiled (and in one piece with the fiberglass fuselage). The stab and rudder are built-up. The elevators are sheet balsa. All wood parts are covered in MonoKote.
Posted on: 9/28/2009 1:33 PM by Author "krproton" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9130178

RE: Great Planes Extra 27% 330s
[quote]ORIGINAL: Guillermito Hello, I have finished my Extra and the problem is down the left wing. This is landing gear failure. Anyone have this problem? Any idea to solve this problem? [/quote] Guillermito, I do not understand the problem. Will you please try to explain once more in more detail? I will try to assist. Tim
Posted on: 9/16/2009 10:41 PM by Author "krproton" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9102031

RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)
Hello everybody. I haven't been following this thread as closely as I was at first, but I have been looking in from time - to - time and reading most of your posts. Just wanted to say thanks for all of the kind words. I returned my B-25 (the one photographed in my original posts) to the company, but have another on the workbench. I haven't made much (any) progress lately (house projects and summer flying), but will post pics as I make progress (but I don't plan to get going on it again until later in the Fall). This one will be a re - cover in aluminum MonoKote. Well, just wanted to check in and say hello. Keep up the good work everybody. [:)] Tim
Posted on: 9/11/2009 3:49 PM by Author "krproton" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9087355

RE: Pull pull help needed
A while ago I experimented with pull/pull rudder cable geometry simulating different scenarios (parallel cables, crossed cables, servo arm offset, etc.) in AutoCAD. I started with drawings from the Great Planes 27% Extra 330S ARF that has 27� cables. I used 50-degree servo throw (each way) to simulate maxed ATV’s for 3D flight (even though this may be way more rudder throw than needed). Below are my findings; [b]Example 1[/b] illustrates perfect geometry; the cables are parallel, the mounting holes on the rudder horns align with the pivot point (leading edge) of the rudder and the distance between the cables at both ends is equal. The servo arm has no offset. As the drawing illustrates, even at full rudder deflection the distances between the rudder horns and the servo arm do not change, so cable tension remains the same and neither goes slack. This is the only scenario that provides perfect geometry. I’ve heard it said that as long as the rudder horns are in line with the leading edge, and as long as the servo arm is the same length as the rudder horns, you can cross the cables and the tension will stay the same all the way to full deflection. But this isn’t true. In [b]Example 2[/b] the “idle� cable acquires approximately 3mm slack at full deflection. Most pilots might find some cable slack acceptable. But given the same scenario on an even larger plane, the amount of slack could be greater. On some models (that have traditional bolt-on control horns instead of threaded torque rods or custom-made imbedded horns), the horns must be set back from the leading edge. On models like this, I’ve heard people say that as long as any offset in the servo arm is the same as the offset in the rudder horns, then cable tension will stay the same all the way through the throw and you won't get any slack. But this isn’t true either. In [b]Example 3[/b], the horns are 5mm back from the leading edge and there is 5mm offset in the servo arm. But the idle cable acquires approximately 3mm slack. Again, 3mm of slack may be okay for most pilots, but it isn’t perfect and would be even worse on a larger plane (about 10mm slack on a 35% model). The idea of offset on the rudder servo arm caused me to think about Example 2 again (where the cable connection points on the rudder align with the pivot point, but the cables are crossed—probably the way most 35% and 40% kits/ARFs are set up). So I made another drawing (not shown), only this time with 5mm offset in the servo arm. Now, at full rudder deflection, any existing cable slack was immeasurable. This means that if your rudder cables cross, some offset will be needed in the servo arm even if the rudder horns are not set back from the leading edge. Look at [b]Example 4A[/b]. The offset on the “rudder end� is still 5mm, but now the offset on the servo arm is 10mm. (This is the exact setup as on the GP 27% Extra.) This time the idle cable has no measurable slack (.1mm), so the cable tension remains virtually the same even when the rudder is fully deflected. This might lead you to believe that the formula for servo arm offset is double the offset on the rudder horn. But it doesn’t work. I drew another illustration in [b]Example 4B [/b]with the servo located closer to the rudder. But with the same offset as example 4A, the idle cable now has 1.5mm slack, so you can’t simply multiply the cable mounting point offset on the rudder by some number—I guess there are just too many variables. There may be a formula that describes the relationship between horn offset, servo arm offset, cable length and the width of the cable connection points on both ends, but I’m not even going to try to figure it out! [b]So here are my conclusions; [/b] 1. In order to get the pull/pull cable setup you want, you have to determine how much cable slack you can live with. I don’t know if there is a consensus on this—some seem to think a small amount of slack is just fine, but some don’t. 2. If your cables are crossed and/or if the cable connection points on the rudder are not in line with the pivot point, you will probably need an offset rudder servo arm—especially on larger models. 3. There isn’t a formula (that I know) for determining servo arm offset that can be applied to all situations. Practically, any offset needed would have to be determined through experimentation or the use of computer-aided design tools such as AutoCAD. (Or hopefully, your kit/ARF manufacturer has already done this for you!) 4. The only PERFECT scenario is when there is a parallelogram (where the cables are not crossed, the cable connection points on both ends are the same distance apart and in line with their pivot points). Otherwise, a rudder servo arm with some offset may be a good idea.
Posted on: 9/2/2009 8:29 AM by Author "krproton" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9062244

RE: Pull pull help needed
Hey, thanks! [:)]
Posted on: 9/1/2009 4:39 PM by Author "krproton" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9062333

RE: looking for my first Plane
Hi Capone. You'll get different opinions on which trainer to get and whether to go with electric vs. glow. I'll try to be as objective as possible; First, there are basically two ways to go; You can try to learn somewhere all by your self in a park or school yard on a relatively inexpensive RTF (ready to fly) electric plane. In this case, the investment and commitment is relatively small. If you don't like it or don't have success you can just walk away without having spent too much. You may have success, or you may crash a few learning on your own, but it can be done. But usually, the best way, if possible, is to join an R/C club that gives flying lessons (sounds like that's the path you've already decided to take). This usually takes more of a commitment because of the Club dues, AMA dues, and the nature of the plane they will probably tell you to buy. But if you stay patient and get good instruction, it might seem like it's taking a long time, but you'll be a better pilot in less time than trying by your self. In a club situation, you'll also be exposed to much more R/C "activity" just by watching the other guys and seeing their models. If you learn in a park all by your self, you'll be...all by your self. If you join a club, just about any high-wing airplane designated as a "trainer" should be fine. Visit the club and talk to the guys you might be taking flying lessons from. They will probably feel more comfortable teaching you on whatever plane they prefer/recommend and the learning process will probably be easier. Most of the time, clubs teach new pilots on .40 cu. in. glow-powered trainers (wing span usually around 70"). Electric is great, but there's a few added elements such as the cost of batteries, chargers, and power supplies. There's also the time waiting for batteries to charge between flights. If you purchase enough batteries so you can show up at the field with all of them charged so you don't have to charge them at the field, you may have a small fortune just in batteries because they are expensive. The nice thing about electric is, of course, it's quite and clean, but initially all the extra components I just mentioned can add a few more hundred dollars to the investment. The other problem with electric can be the flight time. Most electric trainers fly for around six, MAYBE eight minutes, but with glow-powered planes you'll get at least 10 - 14 minute flights. This gives you much more air time to learn. Personally, I would recommend a glow-powered plane. By the time you have soloed and can fly all on your own, you'll be much more knowledgeable about what is available and will be able to make a better decision about what kind of electric plane to get next. Visit your club, talk to the instructors and listen to what they say. And good luck! Tim
Posted on: 8/24/2009 7:05 AM by Author "krproton" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9039267

RE: Great Planes Extra 27% 330s
Wow. 8 pages back. Guess this thread is dead. Here are some recent photos of minehas the rest of the graphics I made...
Posted on: 8/22/2009 12:07 PM by Author "krproton" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9035683

RE: PROBLEMS with your GASSER? AREA51 102 , DL 50 , 55 , 110 , CRRC , BME 58 , 110 , DA , ETC ... ???
I guess I'm going to describe my success with my engines, no problems; Two DL 50's purchased last year. Both in 27% scale aerobatic planes (one an Edge, the other an Extra). Both broken in on Lawnboy. Both now running on Amsoil 100:1 (but considering switching to Pennzoil Air-cooled). Probably about six gallons through the newer one and maybe twenty gallons through the older one. Both start fourth or fifth flip first flight of the day, then first flip every single time the rest of the day after that. No dead-sticks. No problems. Both use slimline mufflers. Older engine has been crashed twice. First time replaced the front bearing (all by my self). Second crash required new front case and bearings. (Unfortunately, I now have the tools and know how to rebuild one of these things!). Still runs perfectly. (Pic is of my older engine that has been crashed/repaired twice.)
Posted on: 8/20/2009 10:56 PM by Author "krproton" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9032513

RE: DL-50 engine
[quote]ORIGINAL: JoeAirPort I doubt there is a consensus but there is a strong movement to get awway from Amsoil Saber 100:1. Many people are going with a better synthetic with more oil in the mix...40-50:1. Also there are many people like me who love Pennzoil air-cooled 32:1 (some do 40 or 50:1 with good results too). The engines are clean as a whistle inside and have gobs of power. So those are the two movements I see. The final choice is yours though. I don't see anything wrong with a good synthetic or Pennzoil air cooled. Either one makes your engine very happy. [/quote] I'll monitor this post and look for more answers, but [b]THAT'S[/b] what I'm talkin' 'bout! (in JoeAirPort's reply above). No bashing. No "your oil sucks and you're stupid." Just a respectfully, concisely - written response based upon a little experience and observation. And I believe I've read enough claims of "clean as a whistle inside," and experienced too much wonderful performance from my own engines to conclude there's nothing wrong with the design or metallurgy of this engine. Well thanks. I'll check back later.
Posted on: 8/20/2009 8:50 PM by Author "krproton" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9032185

RE: DL-50 engine
Jody, you out there? More two-stroke oil discussion here. Sorry. It's not my intention to start another war. Here's the deal. I consider myself an expert modeler, but am relatively new to spark-ignition engines (I can't bring my self to call them "gassers."). Purchased my first DL50 from DL USA last summer. Loved it so much I purchased another (from Valley View) for my other airplane. Love that one too. Broke both of 'em in on the Lawnboy. After the break-in, most of the people I get my advice from suggested Amsoil Saber. I started at like 60/80:1, then after reading posts stressing to run that oil at 100:1 I've been doing that for the last few gallons in both engines. They run absolutely perfectly - start on fourth or fifth flip first flight of the day, then the very first flip every time for the rest of the day after that. However, I've had the one engine apart twice (to replace bearings once, and the front case and bearings the second time due to bad crashes). There was carbon on the top of the piston and in the combustion chamber - nothing that alarmed me, but enough carbon on the piston that I did take the time to remove it with like 320 or 400-grit sandpaper. Still running the 100:1 with no problems. Problem is however, I am open-minded (and unsure) enough to consider all reasonable advice. I'm getting the idea that consensus is, go with Pennzoil @ 40:1 (or is that 50:1?). I have read more than just one or two posts where guys report that that Amsoil Saber leaves carbon that, unchecked after a period of time, can be a problem. Based upon my experience (after tearing down that one engine a few times), this may be happening to my engines. So, my question is, what is the consensus? I know there are many opinions - some based upon actual experience, some based upon whatever else. I don't want to switch away from something that appears to be working now, but I'm thinking about the long-run too. I have gone back and read several (but not all) the posts about oil, but I was just wondering if there is a consensus - I'm thinking it's the Pennzoil. I just came back from Advance Auto Parts where I bought some Pennzoil Air-cooled 2-stroke oil and am ready to pull the trigger and switch over. Well, go ahead and fire back!
Posted on: 8/20/2009 6:53 PM by Author "krproton" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9031943

RE: DL-50 engine
[quote]ORIGINAL: spitmad Guys this may have been cover off in earlier posts................however..............what size 3 x blade props are good for the DL 50, I am using a 3W 22/10 and whant to go to a three blade.......... cheers Alan[/quote] Yea, 20 x 10 Mejzlik for me. My DL 50's love it.
Posted on: 8/19/2009 1:16 PM by Author "krproton" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9028345

RE: DL-50 engine
[quote]ORIGINAL: vanguard Has anyone else had an issue, on the DL50, if stripping the prop hub threads. I have done it for the second time. Was changing props and doing the initial tightening when I heard it pop. At first I thought it might be a broken bolt, but the bolt is fine. I have ran this engine and a DA 50 for about 3 seasons now, so its not a case of not knowing how to tighten the bolts. Using the same method and tools on both engines. In fact I have changed props many times on the DA with out any issues. [/quote] My guess is you're over tightening the bolts. I have two DL 50s with no problems there (or anywhere). I've had the one engine apart a few times and had the prop off many times with no problems. It doesn't take as much torque as one would think to get the prop bolts sufficiently tightened (but I don't know what the actual torque spec. is).
Posted on: 8/18/2009 7:54 AM by Author "krproton" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9025066

RE: DL-50 engine
[quote]ORIGINAL: PlaneKrazee I still use Latex rubber padding left over from the discrete components in electronics days. Krproton, Which spinner do you have on your plane? What rpm are you getting with that prop? [quote]ORIGINAL: krproton Thanks thevirginian. There is a thick film of RTV silicone rubber on the bottom of the ignition box and the plywood mount to absorb vibration. This has been
Posted on: 8/14/2009 12:20 PM by Author "krproton" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9016042

RE: DL-50 engine
Thanks thevirginian. There is a thick film of RTV silicone rubber on the bottom of the ignition box and the plywood mount to absorb vibration. This has been working for last flying season and this season so far. Do you think this is sufficient?
Posted on: 8/14/2009 8:40 AM by Author "krproton" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9015580

RE: DL-50 engine
[quote]ORIGINAL: We3R/C Hi, New DL-50 owner here! I have a question: What size are the threads on the Hub? I am looking for a Spinner, and can't seem to find the spec's. What Muffler do ya'll like over stock? (looking for Pitt's type) Thanks~Mike [/quote] I like the Slimline. The JTech is similar, but the part of the muffler where it bolts onto the engine is smaller on the Slimline than on the JTech, so it fits inside the cowl. Also, the Slimline is a much nicer piece. I don't want to badmouth the JTech because I'm sure many use them and they work well, but it looks like it was made in a guy's garage. Of course, the Slimline costs more than the JTech. I also like to apply aluminum tape inside the cowl around the engine and exhaust tube openings.
Posted on: 8/13/2009 11:10 PM by Author "krproton" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9014944

RE: Assembling a Revolver...
Often I skip the lock washers and just rely on blue (non-permanent) threadlocker. But if you want to follow the instructions to a "T," yea, go ahead and use the lock washers and you cannot go wrong. And like ChuckW said, the lock washers always go onto the bolt first, then the flat washer.
Posted on: 7/30/2009 11:35 PM by Author "krproton" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8977861

RE: Great Planes 27% Edge 540 ARF - build thread
Good suggestion Doug (about the graphics company). As far as GP changing to the MM1 (Mike Mangold) trim scheme, I agree with you, but it's probably a licensing problem. It's one thing for an individual like my self to duplicate a trim scheme, but when a company does it for profit they can run into problems without consent (and likely fees).
Posted on: 7/30/2009 7:28 PM by Author "krproton" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8977263

RE: Great Planes 27% Edge 540 ARF - build thread
Hello Rooster6. Thanks for the compliments. I can't take all the credit all I did was draw them from an existing trim scheme, but it was a considerable amount of work anyway. I don't really have a way that I can think of for producing the graphics and selling them. I cut them from MonoKote on our laser-cutter at work. I'm not too busy to cut them for you, I just don't know how to convert the AutoCAD drawings into something a professional graphics company could cut for you. If you do some leg work on your end and talk to a graphics company, I could email you the AutoCAD drawing files if they can use them. Tim
Posted on: 7/30/2009 7:25 PM by Author "krproton" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8977260

RE: Great Planes NEW Zlin And PT 19 ARF
Thought I'd chime in here... I had the opportunity to fly one of the prototypes of the Zlin back when it was still in development. The one I flew was electric-powered at the time. It flew nice and all - smooth and honest, but I wasn't in love with it or anything. Then last week I saw one of our in-house Futaba Team pilots (I'll leave his name out of it so I don't force him to get involved with this thread) flying a finished Zlin from a production run. It was powered by a .70 4-stroke and he was flying the &*%@ out of it! Rolling circles and knife-edge circles full-throttle about 20' off the deck! He had that thing crankin'. I was impressed to say the least. Well, you have to give credit to the pilot, but the Zlin can do it if asked. I apologize for the advertisement, but even though the Zlin is an old-school aerobatic model, I thought it was more of a lazy sport flyer, so I was impressed when I saw it doing what it was doing that day.
Posted on: 7/30/2009 6:57 AM by Author "krproton" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8975871

RE: choke set up for a dl50
You can make a choke pushrod mounting plate from carbon fiber, G-10 fiberglass sheet, or 1/16" aircraft plywood. Only one bend required in the pushrod to align with the choke mount, then a small "L" bend on the end for a "handle" you can reach down inside your cowl.
Posted on: 7/28/2009 4:17 PM by Author "krproton" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8971285

RE: Any thoughts on Amsoil 2 stroke oil?
I have two DL 50s. Both engines performing flawlessly (in 27% Edge and Extra). Broke both in on Lawnboy 32:1 two gallons, then switched to Amsoil Saber. Like others, was reluctant to go all the way to 100:1, so started at like 60:1, but now running 80:1. Both engines running perfectly in all regards (starting, idling, acceleration, power, reliability, whatever). But will be switching to 100:1 because the experienced pilots I listen to suggest I do so. Some of the other guys I work with also swear by Amsoil Saber 100:1 in their DAs too. I still consider my self rather a "newbie" to gas, but I'm sticking with the pros do which has been working so far.
Posted on: 7/24/2009 4:48 PM by Author "krproton" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8960936

RE: New 35cc Extra 260!!!!!!!!!!!!
Hey Doug, what a beautiful ARF. In the pics it looks like the whole thing is fiberglass - nice finish! And I didn't know Xoar made 3-blade propellers. I checked them out and looks like they're about the same price as the carbon Mejzlik's I'm running on my planes. I didn't see the Xoar in black though. Did you paint yours? Also, if you're looking to loose some nose weight maybe try a carbon spinner (pricey though I know). Well, keep her alive. (I've been learning the Sportsman sequence and plan to get to an IMAC or two this year my self.) Tim
Posted on: 7/23/2009 7:03 AM by Author "krproton" in the forum "Aero-Works Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8957038

RE: Great Planes Extra 27% 330s
In the instruction manual 3D aileron throw is provided in inches; 1-1/2" [38mm] up, 1-1/2" [38mm] down. In degrees that is 20 degrees up, 20 degrees down.
Posted on: 7/22/2009 10:33 AM by Author "krproton" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8954425

RE: Great Planes Extra 27% 330s
Hello Guillermo. I do not think it is necessary to cover the holes in F2 unless your engine or exhaust leaks oil. My engine is very clean and I have had no problems with the open holes in F2. I think other models are made this way too. Tim
Posted on: 7/20/2009 6:54 AM by Author "krproton" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8948125

RE: Great Planes Extra 27% 330s
Hello Guillermito. I do not know if it is necessary to cut a hole in the firewall (F1) for the carburetor, but I do it anyway because I have seen others do so. I think you can see the hole in the firewall in the photo of my plane. It is about 1" diameter. Tim P.S. I saw your question about the control horns. I believe many people who fly planes this size prefer the kind of horns that are threaded rods (torque rods), but I have heard of no problems with the Great Planes horns that come with the Extra.
Posted on: 7/19/2009 8:36 PM by Author "krproton" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8947117