RE: RC Drift noob
no I don't sell them...I just had a bunch of stuff I was selling, stuff I won in events and comps that I never used.
Posted on: 9/15/2012 10:51 PM by Author "kstmRYD" in the forum "RC Drifting"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11229740

RE: RC Drift noob
there is everything for the Yok MR-4TC SD...you can get all kinds of hop ups for this chassis, this is the front one way... http://www.rcmart.com/yokomo-d021-front-oneway-mr4tc-p-31472.html?cPath=595_746_407
Posted on: 9/13/2012 5:41 PM by Author "kstmRYD" in the forum "RC Drifting"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11227774

RE: New Indoor Drift course
For drifting on carpet you want layouts with "long sweeps"...nice long curves back to back (s curves) and stay away from long straights. I lay out tracks for and judge comps...I can hit you up with a couple of layouts. Also most guys will bring the wrong tires for carpet like T-drifts, they will heat up and start gripping and it turns into a bash fest, drift goes out the window and it's full blown on road racing...if it's a dual purpose track..."tour and drift" forget it, if you spray down traction compound it ruins it for the drifters it gums up the tires. Carpet drift tracks need to be dedicated just for drifters...you may not get the amount of drifters to justify a dedicated track...but if you try to promote it and it grows on you, drifters tend to spend more on their rides than road racers...I know our group does.
Posted on: 9/13/2012 10:04 AM by Author "kstmRYD" in the forum "RC Drifting"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11227344

RE: New to the rc drift scene
yeah it's bugging out....click on redirect to homepage and go to the for sale section / electronics
Posted on: 9/13/2012 9:42 AM by Author "kstmRYD" in the forum "RC Drifting"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11227314

RE: New to the rc drift scene
here's a nice setup for a good price... http://www.raikoudrift.com/for-sale-electronics.html
Posted on: 9/13/2012 9:42 AM by Author "kstmRYD" in the forum "RC Drifting"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11223455

RE: RC Drift noob
Yes underdrive is to make the wheels rotate less...overdrive is to make them rotate more. For your Yok you can buy the counter steer kits that will overdrive the rear wheels by 50%(1.5) 80%(1.8) or 100%(2.0). 50% CS will turn the rear wheel a half turn more than the front wheel, 80% nearly 3/4 more and 100% a full turn, with 100% or 2.0 CS the rear wheel goes around two turns for every one turn in the front. This is a CS kit for your Yok...I just sold 3 kits.. [IMG]http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab76/njim/Yok%20C%20Plus/IMG_0606.jpg[/IMG] Her's the three CS kits that are available and the one way shaft [IMG]http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab76/njim/Yokomo%20Type%20B%20Carbon%20Upgrade/IMG_1931.jpg[/IMG] Here's my old Yok with carbon fibre upgrade and suzuki high angle steer kit [IMG]http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab76/njim/Yokomo%20Type%20B%20Carbon%20Upgrade/IMG_1925.jpg[/IMG] If you plan on CS you will need other parts as your skills improve...a one way (either shaft or a diff) and more steer angle, and C hubs with higher degree caster also gives it better steer response. Counter steering is the way to go, it looks and acts like the real thing. Once you master it 50/50 (no counter steer) you will not go back to 50/50...CS is like going from a tricycle to a two wheeler. Also for controlled drifting you don't need anything under a 10T motor it's just too much power...it will actually hinder you...higher power means less throttle response, it will be to off the line jerky, you want really smooth throttle increase. If you can go brushless...Novak Slydr with drift spec motors are tailored for drift....super smooth throttle.
Posted on: 9/13/2012 9:37 AM by Author "kstmRYD" in the forum "RC Drifting"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11227308

RE: POST A PIC OF YOUR DRIFTER THREAD!!!!!!!!!
After selling some stuff, actually a bunch of stuff and clicking on the buy now button, my Yok DRB showed up today, got it in just 3 days straight from Tokyo thanks to Tim at RC-race-and-drift. EMS shipping kicks butt! [IMG]http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab76/njim/DRB%20Build/IMG_1997.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab76/njim/DRB%20Build/IMG_2023.jpg[/IMG] Only thing in English is this front page of the manual... [IMG]http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab76/njim/DRB%20Build/IMG_2001.jpg[/IMG] This chassis comes with everything you need...well just about...I bought a 1.8 CS rear spool and a 2 deg toe bar to loosen up the rear bite a little. [IMG]http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab76/njim/DRB%20Build/IMG_2003.jpg[/IMG] Well here we go!...carbon fiber is top quality...installed front and rear bulkheads. [IMG]http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab76/njim/DRB%20Build/IMG_2008.jpg[/IMG] assembled the one way and started the buildup... [IMG]http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab76/njim/DRB%20Build/IMG_2013.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab76/njim/DRB%20Build/IMG_2010.jpg[/IMG] This belt routing gives the chassis a mechanical brake drag... [IMG]http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab76/njim/DRB%20Build/IMG_2015.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab76/njim/DRB%20Build/IMG_2014.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab76/njim/DRB%20Build/IMG_2020.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab76/njim/DRB%20Build/IMG_2019.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab76/njim/DRB%20Build/IMG_2016.jpg[/IMG] This is about 45 minutes into the build...calling it a night...should be getting my Motor and ESC tomorrow or Wednesday.
Posted on: 9/4/2012 7:07 PM by Author "kstmRYD" in the forum "RC Drifting"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11217724

RE: Verseion 95 on Facebook
we like you![:)]
Posted on: 7/12/2012 5:18 AM by Author "kstmRYD" in the forum "RC Drifting"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11152343

RE: I know there are simulators for RC planes...
actual simulator like for planes? I haven't seen one...but there are video games...need for speed shift 2 unleashed, ridge racer and others...then there are some "cute" kiddie ones on www.driftinggames.org just for laughs
Posted on: 3/16/2012 5:19 PM by Author "kstmRYD" in the forum "RC Drifting"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11003233

RE: tires question
They seem like a good deal because they come complete, tires and wheel...but the tires are hard plastic and they wear down really fast if you are on asphalt and they get gummy on carpet...go with the Raikou's and the wheels are a bit flimsy, if you nail a curb they break at the spoke.
Posted on: 3/15/2012 4:30 AM by Author "kstmRYD" in the forum "RC Drifting"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11000781

RE: esc where to start?
that ESC is good down to 12T and it runs at 80amps/240amp burst...however ratings can be deceiving especially on inexpensive products. So is it good?? depends on what you want to do with it. Usually lower priced ESC like this one have a poor throttle curve which you need for smooth control for drifting on tight layouts on a slick surface...but on the other hand they work great bashing around in a parking lot as they usually have jack rabbit take off power. So it depends what you want it for and the type of use it will get. The ESC's job is to smoothly regulate the flow of electricity to the motor...how well it does this depends on the quality of its components and it's control of internal thermal temps. So you get what you pay for, if it's going to get occasional light duty use, you probably can't go wrong for the price go for it, but if you are going to run it hard for many hours you might want to look into a reputable unit.
Posted on: 2/15/2012 3:30 AM by Author "kstmRYD" in the forum "RC Drifting"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10959744

RE: Tamiya TA-05 v.2 help
@ ichibansf - it's looking good! on your question about the tensioner by the motor... I put this as close to the center pulley because as the belt wraps around the bottom of the center pulley and up over the tensioner it creates a 90deg bend. This bend creates a little bit of drag in the drive line. I don't want my chassis to roll effortlessly, I want it to decelerate like if I were in a low gear, the more bends the more the drag effect...belt driven yokomos apply this in their designs. This helps me to enter a turn...flick the steering...and into a controlled slide...flick the steering in the other direction and swing the car into an opposite slide, I need this effect for the very tight multi S curve track layouts I drift on. Belt tension? just enough tension so that when you throttle on and off, the longest run of the belt does not bounce up or down more than 1/4 inch. A lot of guys over tighten them like guitar strings...don't play that tune...give her a little slack and she'll last a long time. The lock collar...yes that is to keep the play in check. Remember to thread lock any screws going into aluminum...and get yourself some raikou's D68 and DXPE and you'll be good to go!
Posted on: 2/14/2012 10:34 AM by Author "kstmRYD" in the forum "RC Drifting"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10958659

RE: Tamiya TA-05 v.2 help
OK cool...you should be able to put this conversion together nicely then.
Posted on: 2/3/2012 6:00 AM by Author "kstmRYD" in the forum "RC Drifting"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10941591

RE: Tamiya TA-05 v.2 help
[b]ichibansf[/b] - do you have a "Tamiya" TA05 ver.2 chassis already? if so you use the bulkheads, suspension mounts, bearings and screws from that car on the GRT kit. If you don't have the TA05 then you will need to buy a couple of items for the GRT Conv Kit. On the belt question...I bought the 3803V3 CS kit...if I remember the belts were a bit too long so I think I used a smaller belt from my inventory of stuff I have...I need to look at the chassis...I'll check it and get back too you. The reason for extra belt tensioner in addition to the ones the GRT brings is to make longer belts work instead of getting shorter belts, you can add the extra tensioner on the upper deck with a pulley and make just about any belt work, this comes in handy for me if I break a belt in a comp or demo I can easily use different size belts and make them work. On the cam question....the cams you need are figure A2 they will fit right into the alloy bulkheads if you go that route. If you order the alloy bulkheads you need to order two rear ones (3553), that's right "two rear" so you can mount the shock tower on the front bulkhead, they are reversable. [IMG]http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab76/njim/ta05verII-manual-6.jpg[/IMG] Like I mentioned above...if you have the Plastic Tamiya TA05 Ver.2 car you will use a bunch of parts from it.....if you don't have one then you will need a couple of parts for the GRT like bearing set, screw and spacer kit, universal shafts for front and rear, suspension mounts front and rear and wheel adaptor hexes so you can put wheels on it!
Posted on: 2/2/2012 5:36 AM by Author "kstmRYD" in the forum "RC Drifting"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10939921

RE: Tamiya TA-05 v.2 help
jmillz82 - Yeah I slide with Toxic Drift from NJ...we are sponsored by Raikou Drift Tires. We meet with teams from the Bronx, Staten Island and other places...we have been meeting for several years now...we have a track at Staten Island on the beach...great spot in the summer. During the winter on Sundays we have an indoor spot in New Rochelle. In nice weather we also meet at Jackson NJ in an outdoor track too, we hold comps there. If you want to meet up we post our meets on two forums... http://www.hyperdrift.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=51&t=7445 and a new forum we are supporting http://www.blacksununlimited.com/forums/viewforum.php?f=15. Sign on to hyperdrift and blacksun and check the new york city section. We also setup demos at car shows and events...this month a bunch of us are going to Motorama which is a huge RC event in Harrisburg PA...we are introducing drifting for the first time in that show and we are doing an RC show in the Meadowlands I think it's on the 22nd this month. So you are welcomed to come out...we have a lot of veteran drifters and a couple of new guys too...bunch of nice guys just having a good time.
Posted on: 2/2/2012 3:50 AM by Author "kstmRYD" in the forum "RC Drifting"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10939829

RE: Tamiya TA-05 v.2 help
@ jmillz82...I noticed your location is Newark NJ, I drift with a Team based in NJ "Toxic Drift"...a new one to the drift scene has extended an invitation to come out and drift in Montclair NJ in a gymnasium. A couple of us are going out to support him. You might be interested.... We are going to be at the Salvation Army Corps. Community Center 13 Trinity Place, Montclair NJ tommorro Thursday Feb 2nd from 6:30pm to 10:00...it's indoors...nice floor and no cost...you are welcome to come out!
Posted on: 2/1/2012 11:34 AM by Author "kstmRYD" in the forum "RC Drifting"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10938724

RE: Tamiya TA-05 v.2 help
[quote]ORIGINAL: saer_x Hey, thanks for your response and your recommendations. I guess, I'll start by getting the Tamiya TA05 V.2 and make my way from there. Also, thanks for the electronics suggestions. My budget is not thst big so I'll have to look for some affordable electronis before i get the more realible electonics that you suggested. If you have more recommendations for me, feel free to let me know. I'm sure ill run into some problems building the chassis and unpgrading it, hope i can with your help in the future. <img src=''http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/js/fckeditor/editor/images/smiley/msn/thumbup.gif'' alt='''' /> Thanks for your time and your help is appreciated.   [/quote] If you haven't bought a chassis yet...I have a Tamiya TA05 ver.II... spankin brand new! with mild hop ups. Never even seen the floor! Futaba 3PL-2.4Ghz rx/tx brand new! Eagle Racing 60gram Servo brand new! Eagle Racing Shocks new as well, every part is new. The only used parts are the Castle Creation Side Winder and 5700Kv motor. Lots of brand new spare parts come with it too...bulkheads, hubs, wheels... a new set of Raikou D68 tires.. once you use these you will forget about ABS...virtually indestructible I put in a front one way - rear solid spool - high angle 46mm CVD's and alloy C hubs and Eagle Racing shocks with 3 different spring sets (red,green,blue) and front alloy bulkheads. All manuals and booklets for chassis, ESC/Motor and Radio come with it. The Futaba system alone is still new in the box. I'm not parting it out...whole thing goes as one! [color=#FF0000]$285.00 shipped[/size][/color] great price for chassis, all electronics, radio, esc and motor! on top of that shipped... a steal! [img]http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab76/njim/TA05%20Ver%20ll/IMG_1474.jpg[/img] [img]http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab76/njim/TA05%20Ver%20ll/IMG_1467.jpg[/img] If you want to counter steer it has a 39T pulley in front... all it needs is a 16T front center and 22T front rear with a 36T pulley on rear spool and you have 1.5CS or 40T/16T front and 22T/30T rear and you have 1.8CS...ratios are endless or you can just leave it as is if your new to drifting [img]http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab76/njim/TA05%20Ver%20ll/IMG_1465.jpg[/img] [color=#FF0000]RAIKOU D68 TIRES[/color] [img]http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab76/njim/TA05%20Ver%20ll/IMG_1464.jpg[/img] [img]http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab76/njim/TA05%20Ver%20ll/IMG_1452.jpg[/img] Eagle Racing 46mm high angle CVD's installed with alloy C hub that gives it plenty of clearance for wild steering mods. [img]http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab76/njim/TA05%20Ver%20ll/IMG_1454.jpg[/img] [img]http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab76/njim/TA05%20Ver%20ll/IMG_1459.jpg[/img] [img]http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab76/njim/TA05%20Ver%20ll/IMG_1463.jpg[/img] [img]http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab76/njim/TA05%20Ver%20ll/IMG_1455.jpg[/img] [img]http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab76/njim/TA05%20Ver%20ll/IMG_1449.jpg[/img] FUTABA 3PL Rx/Tx spankin brand new in the box...never ever used! [img]http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab76/njim/TA05%20Ver%20ll/IMG_1468.jpg[/img] [img]http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab76/njim/TA05%20Ver%20ll/IMG_1443.jpg[/img] [img]http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab76/njim/TA05%20Ver%20ll/IMG_1445.jpg[/img] [img]http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab76/njim/TA05%20Ver%20ll/IMG_1446.jpg[/img] [img]http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab76/njim/TA05%20Ver%20ll/IMG_1469.jpg[/img] [img]http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab76/njim/TA05%20Ver%20ll/IMG_1472.jpg[/img]
Posted on: 2/1/2012 11:17 AM by Author "kstmRYD" in the forum "RC Drifting"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10938690

RE: Tamiya TA-05 v.2 help
you should have ordered the complete CS kit...comes with pulleys and belts. But you may not have to order belts since you are going with a bigger center rear pulley and smaller rear pulley it just may even out...the adjustment cam just might give you the adjustment you need with the original belt. A good item to order to is a belt tensioner, if the belts are too loose you can always adjust with the tensioner as well. Did you order adjustment cams? if not you will need to order Tamiya bulkhead parts tree for the adjustment cams...the GRT kit does not include those as well as the suspension mounts front and rear as well. On your question if you ordered from broadtech.hk it usually take 3-4 day for me to get my stuff, I'm in NYC
Posted on: 2/1/2012 11:14 AM by Author "kstmRYD" in the forum "RC Drifting"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10938686

RE: Another
I have a brand new Tamiya TA05 ver.II... spankin brand new! Never even seen the floor! Futaba 3PL-2.4Ghz rx/tx brand new! Eagle Racing 60gram Servo brand new! Eagle Racing Shocks new as well, every part is new. The only used parts are the Castle Creation Side Winder and 5700Kv motor. Lots of brand new spare parts come with it too...bulkheads, hubs, wheels... a new set of Raikou D68 tires.. once you use these you will forget about ABS...virtually indestructible I put in a front one way - rear solid spool - high angle 46mm CVD's and alloy C hubs and Eagle Racing shocks with 3 different spring sets (red,green,blue) and front alloy bulkheads. All manuals and booklets for chassis, ESC/Motor and Radio come with it. The Futaba system alone is still new in the box. I'm not parting it out...whole thing goes as one! [color=#FF0000]$285.00 shipped[/size][/color] great price for chassis, all electronics, radio, esc and motor! on top of that shipped... a steal! [img]http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab76/njim/TA05%20Ver%20ll/IMG_1474.jpg[/img] [img]http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab76/njim/TA05%20Ver%20ll/IMG_1467.jpg[/img] If you want to counter steer it has a 39T pulley in front... all it needs is a 16T front center and 22T front rear with a 36T pulley on rear spool and you have 1.5CS or 40T/16T front and 22T/30T rear and you have 1.8CS...ratios are endless or you can just leave it as is if your new to drifting [img]http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab76/njim/TA05%20Ver%20ll/IMG_1465.jpg[/img] [color=#FF0000]RAIKOU D68 TIRES[/color] [img]http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab76/njim/TA05%20Ver%20ll/IMG_1464.jpg[/img] [img]http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab76/njim/TA05%20Ver%20ll/IMG_1452.jpg[/img] Eagle Racing 46mm high angle CVD's installed with alloy C hub that gives it plenty of clearance for wild steering mods. [img]http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab76/njim/TA05%20Ver%20ll/IMG_1454.jpg[/img] [img]http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab76/njim/TA05%20Ver%20ll/IMG_1459.jpg[/img] [img]http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab76/njim/TA05%20Ver%20ll/IMG_1463.jpg[/img] [img]http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab76/njim/TA05%20Ver%20ll/IMG_1455.jpg[/img] [img]http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab76/njim/TA05%20Ver%20ll/IMG_1449.jpg[/img] FUTABA 3PL Rx/Tx spankin brand new in the box...never ever used! [img]http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab76/njim/TA05%20Ver%20ll/IMG_1468.jpg[/img] [img]http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab76/njim/TA05%20Ver%20ll/IMG_1443.jpg[/img] [img]http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab76/njim/TA05%20Ver%20ll/IMG_1445.jpg[/img] [img]http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab76/njim/TA05%20Ver%20ll/IMG_1446.jpg[/img] [img]http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab76/njim/TA05%20Ver%20ll/IMG_1469.jpg[/img] [img]http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab76/njim/TA05%20Ver%20ll/IMG_1472.jpg[/img]
Posted on: 2/1/2012 10:53 AM by Author "kstmRYD" in the forum "RC Drifting"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10938660

RE: Tamiya TA-05 v.2 help
coming along nicely!!
Posted on: 1/17/2012 8:04 AM by Author "kstmRYD" in the forum "RC Drifting"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10913335

RE: what to upgrade
cool...let me know how it works out
Posted on: 1/12/2012 7:46 AM by Author "kstmRYD" in the forum "RC Drifting"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10904918

RE: what to upgrade
counter steering or "CS" is when the rear tires spin more revolutions than the front tires...for example if the rear wheel does two revolutions for every one revolution the front tire does it is CS'ed 2.0 or 100% countered. What this does it makes the rear of the car slide out easily and as the car "is in the slide" you need to keep the tires pointed in the direction of the road, while you stay on the throttle, just like a real car, this is referred to as "full lock." You achieve CS by changing pulley sizes, the rear center pulley (the one connected to your motor) and the differential pulley. If you are new to drift stick to 50/50 (both wheels turning the same revolutions) until you get the hang of drifting. CS is a bit challenging, some guys do all the mods and can only do donuts with the car as the rear wants to pass the front, you need good throttle control in order to keep the car from spinning out when it is CS. Once you learn how to control the car well...like switching it back and forth and drifting on intended lines or lanes, then I would suggest CS. Things like aluminum chassis are nice and will play a very minor role in handling...that is you will not see any earth shacking difference by swapping to an aluminum chassis alone...but as you go tweaking or adding on other performance parts to the rest of the car then these as a "whole" will make a difference. For now a oneway will enable you to shift directions very tightly...ever see videos of guys doing this...well here's one... notice how quickly they switch directions and notice the position of the front tires.... http://www.raikoudrift.com Locking the rear tires so both have exactly the same revolutions will help you "break the rear loose" or in other words slide out the back. In grip racing they do not want this effect, but for drifting this is exactly what you want. Other than these two items starting off and a good set of drift tires I would say keep the car pretty much as it is...as you get better then you can move on to tweaking with other parts.
Posted on: 1/12/2012 6:03 AM by Author "kstmRYD" in the forum "RC Drifting"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10904816

RE: what to upgrade
If you want to get maximum slide and control...two essential parts...lock the rear diff and put a one way in the front This is the front one way I believe the HPI part no is 86042 and the differential locker is 88073...or you can lock the diff with hot glue, silicone, JB Weld or just about any other thing instead of buying the diff locks...what you want to achieve is to stop the gears from spinning...personally I preferred the diff locks but that was just the technician in me... This is the front one way... [IMG]http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab76/njim/hpioneway.jpg[/IMG] This is the diff locker...you gut out the sun gear and planetary gears and put the locker in place. [IMG]http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab76/njim/hpic8073.jpg[/IMG] I haven't messed with a sprint 2 in over 5 years...when I had the chassis catching a pebble or rock between the rear diff pulley and the lower deck (chassis bottom) would rip the belt to shreds...the solution was to drill out a hole right under the rear diff pulley so any debris would fall out rather than get wedge there...I don't know if the newer Sprint 2 suffers from this. Later on if you really want the "closer to true drift experience" you can counter steer the driveline later on...I believe I still have all the part numbers I used if you want to go that route
Posted on: 1/12/2012 3:05 AM by Author "kstmRYD" in the forum "RC Drifting"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10904689

RE: What the Best RC drift car?
There really isn't a best drift car...but best drifter! put a high end car in the hands of a mediocre drifter and put a low end car in the hands of a seasoned drifter...hands down the experienced "trigger finger" will be the best...had nothing to do with the car! It's true some chassis outshine others...like the Yokomo DRB which is made with hands down high quality parts...awesome balance...no hop ups needed...but you are paying for it...easy seven bills. Put this chassis in my hands and put me up against some of my teammates with a TT01 and I still will get served! I'm no slouch but some guys could drift a brick perfectly! Also you need to consider what you call "drifting" really is? fast paced parking lot...taking huge sweeps all by yourself? or slower paced technical drifting on polished concrete surface layout with a bunch of other cars going door to door with you? The parking lot stuff is fun...no doubt about it...but staying controlled in a lane going sideways with another car or two within inches of you...well that's drifting in my book! On nitro vs electric...once again...depends what you are aiming to do. You can never control the raw power of a nitro on a controlled layout with tight turns and other cars on it...that's why you never see one on those videos with those nice tracks with all the props like guard rails, garages, hills and so forth. But go gymkhana with it in a huge asphalt layout...nitro is the choice for big thrills. When it comes to RC drifting to real world 1:1 drifting...the physics are totally different...we wish we could slide and switchback the 1:1 car on a dime like the RC car...that would be a hell of a ride!
Posted on: 1/9/2012 6:40 AM by Author "kstmRYD" in the forum "RC Drifting"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10899526

RE: Tamiya TA-05 v.2 help
Like I mentioned before this conversion kit was designed to use along with an existing TA05. You use parts from the TA05, so since you don't have a TA05 for donor parts you will have to buy them separate. Just a fair warning if it is your first build from scratch you will run into some snags in the middle of your build like needed clips or shims or part. For some guys this will be more than they want to get into, if you're up to it then God speed. If not you can go another route, R2Hobbies has a similar chassis and all you have to do is build it...I've seen this chassis in action...it drifts great and the quality is very good. Here is the link: http://www.r2hobbies.com/eng/proddetail.php?prod=rcve4501001 For electronics I highly recommend the Novak Slyder 8.5, this is one of the best performing brushless systems I have used and believe me I have used several. This system is designed for drifting...it has a super smooth throttle curve...it will accelerate and decelerate super smoothly. I use it on polished concrete where a smooth throttle curve is crucial and it performs flawlessly. I use spektrum receiver and radios, I just bought a new one (Dx3) so I can control my 4 different chassis with, my other model the Dx2 http://www.spektrumrc.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdId=SPM20200 only controls two. I also have used Futaba for years, I have a brand new PL3 radio/reciever http://www.futaba-rc.com/systems/futk1300.html in the box never used... I bought it for a chassis I put together but never used it, I wound up using the Spektrum Dx3.0. For steer servo I use HiTech...they have served me well with tons of trouble free hours of drifting. I'm not your occassional drifter...I put a lot of hours on the track and the above equipment has held up well under the type of use I put on them so I recommend them for reliability. There are less costley items that I'm sure others can vouch for...but these are the items I use and can recommend.
Posted on: 1/8/2012 12:01 PM by Author "kstmRYD" in the forum "RC Drifting"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10897565

RE: Tamiya TA-05 v.2 help
if you are not afraid to build...go for the eagle racing GTR version of the TA05...this kit is awesome...I built two of them already. You start off with the conversion kit at 96.00 buck...get the bulkheads, and suspension arm kit, front oneway and rear spool and you have one nasty drifter. this site has all you need to build this carbon fibre and alloy chassis. http://broadtechonlineshop.com/eagleshop/shop/ShopProductDetail.aspx?id=3860V2 If you want to counter steer it you can buy the CS kits there too. Drop in the Novak Slyder which is discontinued in the US but it's available at the same site. Once you finish with this kit you will have a high end drift chassis, not only does it perform it is beautiful to look at. Here is the last one I just built. [IMG]http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab76/njim/IMG_1257.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab76/njim/IMG_1256.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab76/njim/IMG_1255.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab76/njim/IMG_1254.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab76/njim/IMG_1253-1.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab76/njim/IMG_1252.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab76/njim/IMG_1251.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab76/njim/IMG_1250.jpg[/IMG]
Posted on: 1/7/2012 8:17 PM by Author "kstmRYD" in the forum "RC Drifting"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10897181

RE: hpi sprint 2 or tamiya tt-01?
go for the better grade car if you can...the Sprint over the Tamy TT01. The TT01 is going to need an upgrade in bearings right off the bat as the bushing will wear fast and cause all kinds of sloppiness, by the time you upgrade it you can move up to the next level. I you want a Tamiya the TA05 is in the Sprint 2 class. You can get tons of parts for it, especially drift related. Tons of parts can be bought online..one place in particular...www.broadtech.hk If you go for the sprint go for the flux version, I ran one of these for a while. The can brushed motors in the other kits wear fast and performance suffers and they require maintenance. I ran both sprint and tamiya and I'm biased toward the tamiya it has a much better overall balanced chassis so it slides very well.
Posted on: 1/7/2012 9:53 AM by Author "kstmRYD" in the forum "RC Drifting"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10896355

RE: Suggest a drift car for me
looking to sell one of my team cars...it's a Losi JRXS - Type R with a Castle Creation 5700Kv MambaMax Pro brushless system...rear spool...front one way...it's counter steered 1.5 but still have original pulleys to bring it back to 50/50. It comes with a ton of extra parts...original box and manual...the only thing it doesn't bring is the transmitter and receiver...the shell has front and rear led's...comes with Raikou D68 tires and a set of new D68's...this is one sweet drifter you won't outgrow [IMG]http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab76/njim/losi/IMG_1370.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab76/njim/raikou%20team%20car/IMG_1060.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab76/njim/raikou%20team%20car/IMG_1065.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab76/njim/raikou%20team%20car/IMG_1063.jpg[/IMG] shell has super bright LED light kit with switch for different blink patterns [IMG]http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab76/njim/losi/IMG_1380.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab76/njim/losi/IMG_1379.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab76/njim/losi/IMG_1378.jpg[/IMG] Carbon Fibre Chassis, anodized stainless steel bulkheads and adjustable threaded shocks... [IMG]http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab76/njim/losi/IMG_1367.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab76/njim/losi/IMG_1366.jpg[/IMG] Mamba Max Pro ESC with output for sensored motor and HiTec Digital Super Torque Servo HS-5625MG [IMG]http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab76/njim/losi/IMG_1359.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab76/njim/losi/IMG_1361.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab76/njim/losi/IMG_1357.jpg[/IMG] Castle Creation 5700Kv brushless motor brand new...not even a scratch on it! [IMG]http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab76/njim/losi/IMG_1360.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab76/njim/losi/IMG_1362.jpg[/IMG] spare parts...ball diff...springs...suspension arms...dog bones... spindle carriers...pivot ball and manual [IMG]http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab76/njim/losi/IMG_1372.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab76/njim/losi/IMG_1390.jpg[/IMG] Used this chassis for one season, it's tuned for larger asphalt layouts, 5700Kv motor packs some punch! Drifting on smaller technical layouts on polished concrete so I'm building another chassis and somethings gotta go... If anyone is interested just pm
Posted on: 1/2/2012 3:08 PM by Author "kstmRYD" in the forum "RC Drifting"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10887124

RE: Suggest a drift car for me
$300.00 shipped within US
Posted on: 1/2/2012 11:25 AM by Author "kstmRYD" in the forum "RC Drifting"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10887914

RE: HPI sprint 2 drift help
run time will be determined by battery capacity...I think your sprint came with a 2000mAh battery. The more mAh the more stored juiced it has...so the longer the run time will be. A 5000mAh battery should give you around 30 minutes of hard run time. Batteries also have a C rating...batteries are designed to discharge at a certain rate without damage to the battery. Motors and ESC that consume a lot of power will quickly drain your battery at a fast rate...heating the internals of the battery which shorten battery life. A higher C rated battery can handle fast discharge rates. A 20C 5000mAh battery is a good choice...now you need a charger. The wall charger that came with your kit is probably about .5amps to 1.5amps but don't expect it to charge at those rates constantly...that's why it takes 6 hours. Get yourself a good charger... a 20C 5000mAh battery can be charged at 3.5 to 4amps and will charge in around 30 minutes. Just make sure the charger is set to charge LIPO.
Posted on: 12/28/2011 5:21 PM by Author "kstmRYD" in the forum "RC Drifting"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10880334